Awesome system...as an Architect/contractor -retired...I'm very impressed. Very thorough video, well thought out-answered all my questions...jeez, makes me wanna go build something!!!!
Wish I could find guys as competent as you in South Carolina as I want to build a whole house in this fashion with a solidly poured reinforced roof. Tornado and earthquake, hurricane and high wind proof. Great job!!!
My professor made us watch this for homework, and i cant say this for any of the other videos he has showed us besides practical engineering. But great, well made video! This was way more entertaining than most other construction process videos!
What a bunch of absolute legends. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and your great team attitude is very visible. Loved the finishing dance, God bless!
Love the idea of using an old I joist to get the forms straightened out. Im going to have to start using that. Havent seen that done in Ontario. Great video.
Comprehensive and fun video. Also noticed watching carefully when he was pointing out the spacing for the snap ties his hand position was precise. Dude perfect moment. It's cool watching a guy who really knows his trade and makes it look easy.
Fastest system I ever used was PERI forms in an industrial pour. Super super expensive and they get moved with a zoom boom but they latch together and you can make almost any sized wall fast. But that was at a mine with very deep pockets. The usual forms I used for residential in Saskatchewan were similar to yours or just sheets of form ply backed with 2X4s going horizontal and vertical. Lot more labour intensive and rebar was all tied by hand. I saw a tie wire gun one time in my career and it was pretty good but didn’t tie the bar as tight as people did. Still I loved your video, awesome ideas and great work. Done well and intelligently.
15+ years ago we used to use something called the Simplex forming system for up to 16' pours. They were out of the Chicago area. We could frame them as fast as the laborers could hand them to us - just drop the ties in the ears and slam the tie clamp down over them. Unfortunately they must have gone out of business because I could only find old used ones for sale online.
I work in carpentry and have to often adjust to poor concert work and really enjoy watching you're level of profession. Would be nice if we had that skill around here.
would love to hear what you're saying but the backing track makes that very difficult, trust me, you're info is way more interesting than some guitar riff
Super helpful video, thank you. I have the same form system (also pnw) and it took me a while to figure out how to use them to do 8-10' walls. I still like to use longer ties and whalers, but the overall system is identical in layout and design. Love your videos!
Just did a 100m raft with double layer mesh. All by hand and in my own. Took nearly two weeks. Why did I not get this RUclips feed before then, that gun would have saved my back and so much time.
Removal of Snap Ties requires them to be "Snapped Off", not ground off. If they are snapped off, they break off "recessed" so grout can fill the void avoiding rusting in place and into the concrete or worse, the rebar inside of the concrete. This is also a code issue.
For small houses invest in duraforms We use 2' strips too but we do 4x4 braces top and bottom of the snap ties and level the wall with straps and Jack's. Very Nice clean job. carpenters are $41 an hour in Quebec so buddy needs a raise
This video change my life, whats all the fuss about music? Do you lose the spacers at the bottom? Whats would you recommend for rebar spacing so the snap ties dont buck rebar? How to you brace the inner and outee corners? Did you give the snap ties a groove in the ply board or do you let it sit with gaps between board? As you keep the spacing the same on the snap ties, do you have selected boards just as verts? I would love to see this all in a video but i know you guys are very busy.
rebar spacing is generally 12" oc both ways for taller walls for us. Since the snap ties are 2' (panel edges) I just layout the footing so the bar lands 3-4" short of the panel edges. When the forms are new, we stack them on edge and cut a small groove. Smaller than the snap tie so when we beat them into the groove they stay :-)
We had 5 of those max rebar guns. On days where we would form 16' high 160' radius manure pits they came in pretty handy. Only thing is they can't tie the 25mm thick re-bar wrapped around the bottom of the pit.
I gotta say thank you. The moment I seen this video I jumped up and did a little dance because all the supply places would have you believe that you have to rent special forms to do a basement, but you dont! Immediate relization. Upon seeing your video it basically made me $50,000 maybe 100 and I appreciate that, thank you. I was wondering though, if you had any pictures of how you do the outside corners? That would be the only thing I had a question on. Thank you sir and I appreciate you, again
Very helpful and entertaining, thank you! For a thinner wall, tying the steel after a form is up can help to make sure you are getting cover, but I am not one to really say, because we don't use forms. And now almost a hundredaire!
We did a pour just like this a few months agp, good times and a lot of dare I say fun. Foundations can be the most satisfying jobs ! We hope to record a lot more
I used to build in Portland and everyone used this process. Now in Arizona and they all lay block. Takes forever and more expensive but can't teach old dogs new tricks!!
Wow, this is some intricate and detailed work. GG Tim on the video walkthrough. When you said you were in the PNW I got half excited as we would like, basically exactly what you did hear done at our prop on Lake CdA. If you know anyone in our region, would love your recommendation. Thanks again.
Hi, great video. need some advise. build a house in Ghana many years ago, its a split level into the side of a steep hill, having a lot of damp problem on the groundfloor, any solutions?
We always oiled the panels immediately before framing with them because oiling them before you stack them for storage eventually oversaturates them and makes them heavier.
Holy, that tie gun is amazing. I've only tried tying for 3 days, and it left my hands bleeding, even after investing in expensive gloves (which got ripped apart). That is amazing tech.
I've been here before! I need to know more about cast-in-place concrete walls in a high seismic zone - actual house walls, not just basement. Can you point me to more resources?
Awesome video. I am a new contractor and I use this 1" 1/8 system, I would like more info on your verticle orientation. What do you do for locking inside corners? And I notice you don't use strong back either, so less work and your Fondation looks nice and flat. Great video! I may try verticle stack on top of 2 foot horizontal.
Awesome tutorial on concrete walls. Can you go 12 feet high with those panels? How many inches wide is the wall? How many inches is the diameter of rebar? I never new about those panels.
I’ve used the 1-1/8 system for a long time and never stacked vertically, that seems super efficient for tall walls. Do you rest/tie the snap ties on your rebar to hold while you stack the next panel?
no we don't, we just "pre-groove" the panels then tap them into place. Most stay, but the odd one falls out and we have to hold it in place. The pressure of the form keeps it there long enough for us to put on the shoes/wedges.
Good idea with the tji as a brace. Is all that rebar required where you are? Here in the Midwest, only 2 horizontal rebars are required in basement walls.
Yeah it is weird that rebar quantity varies so much with local practice, not just West Coast v Midwest, but all over the world. I see huge variations and expectations for otherwise very similar jobs - just in different locations. The practice you mention is technically "unreinforced" concrete by code, which can be just fine.
Once the forms are up we brace the forms and bring the wall to plumb. We also use metal form brackets that hold 2×10 wale (whalers). Makes for nice straight plumb walls. While you may have plenty of experience there are some steps that were just missed. It may leave a noob thinking concrete work is easier than it is.
@@AwesomeFramers Missed steps? 1. Bracing that holds the forms vertical. 2. Horizontal bracing that holds the forms straight. Wales run horizontally. Usually there are 3 courses on a 8 foot wall. 3. Snapping a string line inside the form to set grade. Nail grade nails on the line, 2 - 3 feet apart. Remove the nails during trowelling, before concrete begins to set. 4. No anchor bolts were set. 5. Steel trowelling the final grade. Hope that helps. It was a good video on concrete forming, certainly better than most.
@@Farmboy1544 thanks for the feedback 👍 as I showed in the video, we use an I Joist whaler eliminating the rest of the whalers. The drone footage showed all the bracing needed. Our anchor bolts aren't wet set but are already in place using the Anchor Mates. Even though I showed Kyle working the nuts too the grade nails, I didn't show the process of snapping the lines. We pull grade nails as we strip. I appreciate your feedback 👍👍
3rd day at my new footings and foundations job tomorrow. The video really helped and answered a lot of my questions as I'm entirely inexperienced ha. Thanks a lot man.
so how many screws do you get to screw in till u need a new piece of wall. as for the top form you used screws to straighten the wall. courous to know how much was the concrete for all the walls of the basement
We do it the same, but different in Northern Illinois. We use Duraforms with E clips and bent ties. If we have to stack, it goes on the top. Also, we usually don't pout deep footings, we step the footing and wall. Save on concrete. We also stone the footing before wall forms go in the hole. You left a good looking wall, more than one way to skin a cat.
Your thoughts on insulated concrete casting forms? Im a rank amutuar with minimal experience and about half the tools I need to build a house, but imma give it a shot anyways, and im just in the planning phase right now.
Very informational and entertaining! That footing has a pretty big step... do you have to do anything special to keep the concrete from flowing out through the lower step (pour rate, slump, baffle, ...)?
When using a vibrator, I have always plunged the stinger down into the mix and immediately pulled it out to prevent the aggregate from settling to the bottom of the form. The aggregate must always be consolidated evenly in your pour. I will usually vibrate the rebar very briefly if practicable and even vibrate the outside of the form, again very sparingly. I have watched in horror as some guys hold that vibrator down in the mud for several seconds at a time.
Nice info. I am going to build my house in FL where the house needs to be elevated. I was thinking concrete pillars or cement formed walls below the lowest elevated habitable area. How much does a foundation for like this cost and would it be more economical to do cement pillars with a concrete foundation?
I'm building a small cabin and want a basic basement under for storage. Nothing crazy. Maybe 10' by 10'. What all do I need to know/Google to avoid issues? I figured I could just dig a hold and pour concrete to make the walls. Seems I was wrong.
Right on. Never built vertically but use the exact same stuff. But we spray our panels with diesel and motor oil. Also did I see spray foam used to fill a leak? Never thought about doing that. Do this often? How’s the end result? Foam stuck/bludged into the wall a little? Good stuff man. I’m north of Seattle. 🤙🏻
we use JP Strip or something like that to coat the panels. Works really well. Yep we use the spray foam but mostly where it'll be hidden underground. I got that idea from ICF videos on RUclips 😂😂 it works very well, we can span 1" easily with it and the concrete won't push it out.
You mentioned about pouring the concrete in lifts but you didn't say how long to wait to pour the second layer. Also I was wondering when you pour the second lift do you just vibrate down to the joining layers or do you go a little bit past the layer in order to mix the two layers?
don't wait too long or you'll get pour lines. We typically try to stay in motion and just go around the foundation or whatever makes sense. The pump operator is a great resource. He doesn't want a blow out either and he pours a few times a day. So we tend to follow his direction.
Had two of early Max rebar tiers and both were a massive pita. Worked great, when they worked, on small bars. But batteries quickly took a dump, had constant jams, and if they weren't so damn expensive, would have used a 10 lb sledge and smashed em to smithereens. Still have them - both long-since inoperable. Thanks a bunch for the forming details (always used single and double-waler forms). Are there form-design charts for those 1 1/8 MDO panels? Or is it just empirical design based on your years of experience? Lastly, curious why you leave snapties on prior to stripping and then spend the time to grind? Never seen that done. Always used break-back ratchet while wedges were on - breaks ties with half a turn and makes forms easy to strip.
Lots of great points. On the rebar tying guns, did you send them in for service? There are charts if you search for the MDO panels. Been awhile since I found them. On the snapties, I have never seen it done the way you describe, sounds like I need to try that. Thanks for the tip.
@@AwesomeFramers No, never did send them in. We didn't do much rebar placement ourselves (relatively) as most jobs were too big to place our own bar economically - and most rebar subs were small business/minority owned so were necessary to meet the government diversity goals (that most of the WBE/MBE were a complete sham is besides the point - husbands would put company's ownership in their wife's name, or they'd put ownership into a minority front who'd take a small cut for the privilege)
Could you explain what is meant by "pour in lifts"? I interpreted it as pour to a certain height, stop, wait some time for first part to setup and then continue pouring again. Is that correct? Is so, how long should you wait before pouring the next lift? Just trying to figure out the timing of concrete trucks between the lifts.
Don't pour to the top of the forms but pour it 4' "lifts". So work back and forth filling the forms. Don't wait long or you can get pour lines or cold joints. Vibrate the lifts.
Im not an expert but I noticed they put only one net of rebars ( 2 D net instead of 3D net) is that okey ? Will the foundation be able to support heavy weight like 2 floors above ?
If I didn't see your face, and only heard your voice, I would swear it was mattbangswood talking. I lived in Seattle in the early 80's, this was the only way we formed back then, once the 1-1/8 system is dialed in there is no going back, ever!
😂😂😂 Since I'm 43 and he's 20 years younger, he sounds like me 🤣🤣 yeah, I'm surprised how many have never seen this system. When I was a kid the guys here were using it. I would go out and help them pour concrete and strip forms but I wasn't strong enough as a kid. When I was 12 I thought it was the coolest thing to help them.
is there a way to.pour walls without any nail, bolt,connections between the outer forms, in the case where a person must have absolutely solid walls full if concrete
Probably, but I don't know personally. I worked with a commercial guy on a volunteer project and he said they'd come back and "sack" the face of the wall to give it a uniform look.
Just rented steel ply forms to pour 12ft high basement wall. I’m amazed how easy and fast assembly process is. Will never do it with any other form system
Your channel is awesome brother! Love that rebar tying gun! Don't mean to pry but I was wondering where in the Great Pacific Northwest you are working?
hey! i just found this channel and i'm impressed! pretty cool stuff, i just subbed. ps: but a small remark --> I have worked as a side job in a steel processing company and I know how it is with the flexing, it is only a screw and you think "oh that's fine without for this one screw", but no, I have so far jumped two lenses and a splinter was hanging directly in the goggles, without these glasses I would probably have lost my eyesight today, so PLEASE , PLEASE always put on goggles!
We try not to cut panels and if the house is an even number (which ours all seem to be) then the initial rips we need to make can be reused on other foundations
Thank you much for the great video. I used to build foundations, etc. from ICFs in NC and am thinking about going back into it but with a method much more like what you’re doing. Could you reply with a link to the ties you use? I’m curious of the different widths. If you’d be willing to share a little bit of your time I’d love to chat. Arjuna
Awesome system...as an Architect/contractor -retired...I'm very impressed. Very thorough video, well thought out-answered all my questions...jeez, makes me wanna go build something!!!!
Stop it - stay retired, you will break a hip or something - Mr. Furley!
Wish I could find guys as competent as you in South Carolina as I want to build a whole house in this fashion with a solidly poured reinforced roof. Tornado and earthquake, hurricane and high wind proof. Great job!!!
My professor made us watch this for homework, and i cant say this for any of the other videos he has showed us besides practical engineering. But great, well made video! This was way more entertaining than most other construction process videos!
What a bunch of absolute legends. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and your great team attitude is very visible. Loved the finishing dance, God bless!
"Because you're not going to sleep before the pour" .....amen to that! Nice work!
Thanks!
Love the idea of using an old I joist to get the forms straightened out. Im going to have to start using that. Havent seen that done in Ontario.
Great video.
Civil engineer here...from India.
Great work. I learnt a lot!
best video on the subject and I've watched hundreds
Thx so much!!
Comprehensive and fun video. Also noticed watching carefully when he was pointing out the spacing for the snap ties his hand position was precise. Dude perfect moment. It's cool watching a guy who really knows his trade and makes it look easy.
Fastest system I ever used was PERI forms in an industrial pour. Super super expensive and they get moved with a zoom boom but they latch together and you can make almost any sized wall fast. But that was at a mine with very deep pockets. The usual forms I used for residential in Saskatchewan were similar to yours or just sheets of form ply backed with 2X4s going horizontal and vertical. Lot more labour intensive and rebar was all tied by hand. I saw a tie wire gun one time in my career and it was pretty good but didn’t tie the bar as tight as people did.
Still I loved your video, awesome ideas and great work. Done well and intelligently.
15+ years ago we used to use something called the Simplex forming system for up to 16' pours. They were out of the Chicago area. We could frame them as fast as the laborers could hand them to us - just drop the ties in the ears and slam the tie clamp down over them. Unfortunately they must have gone out of business because I could only find old used ones for sale online.
I work in carpentry and have to often adjust to poor concert work and really enjoy watching you're level of profession. Would be nice if we had that skill around here.
More knowledge from this one video than my 2nd yr apprenticeship "intermediate" 8 week class! LOL
Tons of great info! I work in construction and we’ve done a bunch of really tall forms but always out of 2x10 I like your way much better
Great video! You guys are called Awesome Framers for a reason!!!
Thx Deric
would love to hear what you're saying but the backing track makes that very difficult, trust me, you're info is way more interesting than some guitar riff
Super helpful video, thank you. I have the same form system (also pnw) and it took me a while to figure out how to use them to do 8-10' walls. I still like to use longer ties and whalers, but the overall system is identical in layout and design. Love your videos!
Just did a 100m raft with double layer mesh. All by hand and in my own. Took nearly two weeks. Why did I not get this RUclips feed before then, that gun would have saved my back and so much time.
Removal of Snap Ties requires them to be "Snapped Off", not ground off. If they are snapped off, they break off "recessed" so grout can fill the void avoiding rusting in place and into the concrete or worse, the rebar inside of the concrete. This is also a code issue.
For small houses invest in duraforms
We use 2' strips too but we do 4x4 braces top and bottom of the snap ties and level the wall with straps and Jack's.
Very Nice clean job.
carpenters are $41 an hour in Quebec so buddy needs a raise
Thats like $2.50 American eh?
This video change my life, whats all the fuss about music? Do you lose the spacers at the bottom? Whats would you recommend for rebar spacing so the snap ties dont buck rebar? How to you brace the inner and outee corners? Did you give the snap ties a groove in the ply board or do you let it sit with gaps between board? As you keep the spacing the same on the snap ties, do you have selected boards just as verts?
I would love to see this all in a video but i know you guys are very busy.
rebar spacing is generally 12" oc both ways for taller walls for us. Since the snap ties are 2' (panel edges) I just layout the footing so the bar lands 3-4" short of the panel edges. When the forms are new, we stack them on edge and cut a small groove. Smaller than the snap tie so when we beat them into the groove they stay :-)
We had 5 of those max rebar guns. On days where we would form 16' high 160' radius manure pits they came in pretty handy. Only thing is they can't tie the 25mm thick re-bar wrapped around the bottom of the pit.
Lucky guys that work for you! They learn alot more than framing...you guys do it all, good stuff.
I gotta say thank you. The moment I seen this video I jumped up and did a little dance because all the supply places would have you believe that you have to rent special forms to do a basement, but you dont! Immediate relization. Upon seeing your video it basically made me $50,000 maybe 100 and I appreciate that, thank you. I was wondering though, if you had any pictures of how you do the outside corners? That would be the only thing I had a question on. Thank you sir and I appreciate you, again
Very helpful and entertaining, thank you! For a thinner wall, tying the steel after a form is up can help to make sure you are getting cover, but I am not one to really say, because we don't use forms. And now almost a hundredaire!
1/10 of 1% of 1 penny closer :-)
We did a pour just like this a few months agp, good times and a lot of dare I say fun. Foundations can be the most satisfying jobs ! We hope to record a lot more
How much does something like this cost? $$$$
Dude a very decent, clean and professional job done !!
I used to build in Portland and everyone used this process. Now in Arizona and they all lay block. Takes forever and more expensive but can't teach old dogs new tricks!!
Wow, this is some intricate and detailed work. GG Tim on the video walkthrough. When you said you were in the PNW I got half excited as we would like, basically exactly what you did hear done at our prop on Lake CdA.
If you know anyone in our region, would love your recommendation.
Thanks again.
Hi, great video. need some advise. build a house in Ghana many years ago, its a split level into the side of a steep hill, having a lot of damp problem on the groundfloor, any solutions?
Where would I get this system from thank you for the beautiful tutorial
We always oiled the panels immediately before framing with them because oiling them before you stack them for storage eventually oversaturates them and makes them heavier.
Holy, that tie gun is amazing. I've only tried tying for 3 days, and it left my hands bleeding, even after investing in expensive gloves (which got ripped apart). That is amazing tech.
This was super informative. I appreciate hearing all the details about all the bracketry holding the forms together.
I've been here before! I need to know more about cast-in-place concrete walls in a high seismic zone - actual house walls, not just basement. Can you point me to more resources?
Awesome video. I am a new contractor and I use this 1" 1/8 system, I would like more info on your verticle orientation. What do you do for locking inside corners?
And I notice you don't use strong back either, so less work and your Fondation looks nice and flat.
Great video! I may try verticle stack on top of 2 foot horizontal.
Awesome tutorial on concrete walls. Can you go 12 feet high with those panels? How many inches wide is the wall? How many inches is the diameter of rebar? I never new about those panels.
I’ve used the 1-1/8 system for a long time and never stacked vertically, that seems super efficient for tall walls. Do you rest/tie the snap ties on your rebar to hold while you stack the next panel?
no we don't, we just "pre-groove" the panels then tap them into place. Most stay, but the odd one falls out and we have to hold it in place. The pressure of the form keeps it there long enough for us to put on the shoes/wedges.
@@AwesomeFramers What tool do you use to pre-groove? It appears that the edges are spaced apart by the diameter of the snap tie?
@@steve5861it looks like they have them all pre cut, most likely they butted panels together on sawhorses and used a forstner or big gold drill .
Good idea with the tji as a brace. Is all that rebar required where you are? Here in the Midwest, only 2 horizontal rebars are required in basement walls.
yep. The rebar was specified by the engineer.
Yeah it is weird that rebar quantity varies so much with local practice, not just West Coast v Midwest, but all over the world. I see huge variations and expectations for otherwise very similar jobs - just in different locations. The practice you mention is technically "unreinforced" concrete by code, which can be just fine.
Hod you run electrical and plumbing with poured walls? Do you have to do interior framing with wood?
Have you guys ever dabbled in dropping in sheets of insulation or using form liners for architectual texturing?
never have tried that. I would love to do some board formed concrete
Love your quality work video! Please remember to wear a respirator when cutting off snap ties and concrete block etc.
The thumbnail really looks incredible
How well do poured concrete walls withstand light to medium earthquake zones?
Once the forms are up we brace the forms and bring the wall to plumb. We also use metal form brackets that hold 2×10 wale (whalers). Makes for nice straight plumb walls.
While you may have plenty of experience there are some steps that were just missed. It may leave a noob thinking concrete work is easier than it is.
Like what?
@@AwesomeFramers Missed steps? 1. Bracing that holds the forms vertical.
2. Horizontal bracing that holds the forms straight. Wales run horizontally. Usually there are 3 courses on a 8 foot wall.
3. Snapping a string line inside the form to set grade. Nail grade nails on the line, 2 - 3 feet apart. Remove the nails during trowelling, before concrete begins to set.
4. No anchor bolts were set.
5. Steel trowelling the final grade.
Hope that helps. It was a good video on concrete forming, certainly better than most.
@@Farmboy1544 thanks for the feedback 👍 as I showed in the video, we use an I Joist whaler eliminating the rest of the whalers. The drone footage showed all the bracing needed. Our anchor bolts aren't wet set but are already in place using the Anchor Mates. Even though I showed Kyle working the nuts too the grade nails, I didn't show the process of snapping the lines. We pull grade nails as we strip.
I appreciate your feedback 👍👍
Did you remove the spreader cleats before pouring? All I saw were the ties you ground off at the end.
Using this Video for teaching my construction class. Good work, I'll see you at the Hundredaires Club Brunch.
Save me a seat 😉
3rd day at my new footings and foundations job tomorrow. The video really helped and answered a lot of my questions as I'm entirely inexperienced ha. Thanks a lot man.
How’s it going there, bruv?
Super informative video and really well narrated
so how many screws do you get to screw in till u need a new piece of wall. as for the top form you used screws to straighten the wall. courous to know how much was the concrete for all the walls of the basement
Question on the ties, the ties the go on top and act as a cleat how are they fastened to the footing ?
They don't need to be, but we prefer to just put a nail through the hole while the concrete is setting up at footing pour
We do it the same, but different in Northern Illinois. We use Duraforms with E clips and bent ties. If we have to stack, it goes on the top. Also, we usually don't pout deep footings, we step the footing and wall. Save on concrete. We also stone the footing before wall forms go in the hole. You left a good looking wall, more than one way to skin a cat.
Your thoughts on insulated concrete casting forms? Im a rank amutuar with minimal experience and about half the tools I need to build a house, but imma give it a shot anyways, and im just in the planning phase right now.
Great job.....loved the happy dance......as a retired architect I appreciated your professionalism
Very informational and entertaining! That footing has a pretty big step... do you have to do anything special to keep the concrete from flowing out through the lower step (pour rate, slump, baffle, ...)?
Nope just keep the mix stiff and pour halfway, come back in 15 minutes and top it off.
When using a vibrator, I have always plunged the stinger down into the mix and immediately pulled it out to prevent the aggregate from settling to the bottom of the form. The aggregate must always be consolidated evenly in your pour. I will usually vibrate the rebar very briefly if practicable and even vibrate the outside of the form, again very sparingly. I have watched in horror as some guys hold that vibrator down in the mud for several seconds at a time.
Nice info. I am going to build my house in FL where the house needs to be elevated. I was thinking concrete pillars or cement formed walls below the lowest elevated habitable area.
How much does a foundation for like this cost and would it be more economical to do cement pillars with a concrete foundation?
That’s the ☝️ video in my life I’ve been waiting on 😎
Never knew they had a rebar tying machine, i watch iron workers tie rebar 8 hours a day for their whole career. Hard job.
I'm building a small cabin and want a basic basement under for storage. Nothing crazy. Maybe 10' by 10'.
What all do I need to know/Google to avoid issues?
I figured I could just dig a hold and pour concrete to make the walls. Seems I was wrong.
Where do you buy your forms having a hard time finding them here in Utah. Would be more then willing to drive up and get them in the PNW.
Right on. Never built vertically but use the exact same stuff. But we spray our panels with diesel and motor oil. Also did I see spray foam used to fill a leak? Never thought about doing that. Do this often? How’s the end result? Foam stuck/bludged into the wall a little? Good stuff man. I’m north of Seattle. 🤙🏻
we use JP Strip or something like that to coat the panels. Works really well. Yep we use the spray foam but mostly where it'll be hidden underground. I got that idea from ICF videos on RUclips 😂😂 it works very well, we can span 1" easily with it and the concrete won't push it out.
The music feels Tarantino-esque. Kinda ominous when you were walking on the low side of the wall during the pump.
You mentioned about pouring the concrete in lifts but you didn't say how long to wait to pour the second layer. Also I was wondering when you pour the second lift do you just vibrate down to the joining layers or do you go a little bit past the layer in order to mix the two layers?
don't wait too long or you'll get pour lines. We typically try to stay in motion and just go around the foundation or whatever makes sense. The pump operator is a great resource. He doesn't want a blow out either and he pours a few times a day. So we tend to follow his direction.
I love this wire tier machine it absolutely speedup the work
Had two of early Max rebar tiers and both were a massive pita. Worked great, when they worked, on small bars. But batteries quickly took a dump, had constant jams, and if they weren't so damn expensive, would have used a 10 lb sledge and smashed em to smithereens. Still have them - both long-since inoperable.
Thanks a bunch for the forming details (always used single and double-waler forms). Are there form-design charts for those 1 1/8 MDO panels? Or is it just empirical design based on your years of experience?
Lastly, curious why you leave snapties on prior to stripping and then spend the time to grind? Never seen that done. Always used break-back ratchet while wedges were on - breaks ties with half a turn and makes forms easy to strip.
Lots of great points. On the rebar tying guns, did you send them in for service?
There are charts if you search for the MDO panels. Been awhile since I found them.
On the snapties, I have never seen it done the way you describe, sounds like I need to try that. Thanks for the tip.
@@AwesomeFramers No, never did send them in. We didn't do much rebar placement ourselves (relatively) as most jobs were too big to place our own bar economically - and most rebar subs were small business/minority owned so were necessary to meet the government diversity goals (that most of the WBE/MBE were a complete sham is besides the point - husbands would put company's ownership in their wife's name, or they'd put ownership into a minority front who'd take a small cut for the privilege)
Can we build two story building with pour concrete only
Could you explain what is meant by "pour in lifts"? I interpreted it as pour to a certain height, stop, wait some time for first part to setup and then continue pouring again. Is that correct? Is so, how long should you wait before pouring the next lift? Just trying to figure out the timing of concrete trucks between the lifts.
Don't pour to the top of the forms but pour it 4' "lifts". So work back and forth filling the forms. Don't wait long or you can get pour lines or cold joints. Vibrate the lifts.
Im not an expert but I noticed they put only one net of rebars ( 2 D net instead of 3D net) is that okey ? Will the foundation be able to support heavy weight like 2 floors above ?
What type of bracing would you use for a 3 to 4’ wall ?
How do you know the location and number of rebars Installed? It seems magic..
Fantastic video. I assume the bottom spreader cleat is pinned to the footer using a ramset tool?
If I didn't see your face, and only heard your voice, I would swear it was mattbangswood talking. I lived in Seattle in the early 80's, this was the only way we formed back then, once the 1-1/8 system is dialed in there is no going back, ever!
😂😂😂 Since I'm 43 and he's 20 years younger, he sounds like me 🤣🤣 yeah, I'm surprised how many have never seen this system. When I was a kid the guys here were using it. I would go out and help them pour concrete and strip forms but I wasn't strong enough as a kid. When I was 12 I thought it was the coolest thing to help them.
is there a way to.pour walls without any nail, bolt,connections between the outer forms, in the case where a person must have absolutely solid walls full if concrete
Probably, but I don't know personally. I worked with a commercial guy on a volunteer project and he said they'd come back and "sack" the face of the wall to give it a uniform look.
Cheers for the tutorial, gave me a good understanding of the work required. Much appreciated.
😂 😂 😂 😂 I tell my son he got it easy... Bobcat, rebar tying gun, duplix nailer I got 3 of them
Spoiled rotten 🤣
Ok…..that dance was the cherry on top of a nice educational vid. 😂😂😂😂😂😂👍🏼❤️🤣
We always set one side then tie the bar you can stay away from your ties and got something to hold the bar in place
Can a concrete fence be built in this manner instead of laying cinder blocks?
Great video. Where do you get your panels?
Hats off to you. Quality work, Gentlemen.
how do you stop a cold joint when you pour on top of the prior lifts?
So no curing the concrete??
Do you have a wire tire instead of just pliers
Just rented steel ply forms to pour 12ft high basement wall. I’m amazed how easy and fast assembly process is. Will never do it with any other form system
Your channel is awesome brother! Love that rebar tying gun! Don't mean to pry but I was wondering where in the Great Pacific Northwest you are working?
You seem like a good operator, I'd love you to come to New Zealand to form and pour my walls! Great video too.
Subscribed! what is the Blue Colored holder called for holding the anchor bolts?
Anchor Mate 👍
BEAUTIFUL VIDEO MAN !! JUST BEAUTIFUL
Very informative, thanks for the video. Can this system be used to build block/concrete warehouse to avoid wall falling?
Nice video. Ive been looking for a video that explains the process until today. Now i can make a plan
hey! i just found this channel and i'm impressed! pretty cool stuff, i just subbed.
ps: but a small remark --> I have worked as a side job in a steel processing company and I know how it is with the flexing, it is only a screw and you think "oh that's fine without for this one screw", but no, I have so far jumped two lenses and a splinter was hanging directly in the goggles, without these glasses I would probably have lost my eyesight today, so PLEASE , PLEASE always put on goggles!
We always wear safety glasses, but thanks for the reminder, I'll buys some goggles
How do you do corners? And odd sizes walls? Do you cut your panels and charge them to your customer?
We try not to cut panels and if the house is an even number (which ours all seem to be) then the initial rips we need to make can be reused on other foundations
Are those spreaders on the bottom anchored or nailed or tapconned to the footer?
Yeah I like to snap lines if possible right after we pour footings and then push a nail through the hole 👍
Also what's the tallest wall you've done? This lady I worked for has a newer high-end home and I swear the basement ceilings were 9' easily.
God DAMN! I've been outta the concrete biz for 15 years now and this just blew my mind.
Thank you much for the great video. I used to build foundations, etc. from ICFs in NC and am thinking about going back into it but with a method much more like what you’re doing. Could you reply with a link to the ties you use? I’m curious of the different widths.
If you’d be willing to share a little bit of your time I’d love to chat.
Arjuna
Here is a 6" version www.homedepot.com/p/Grip-Rite-6-in-x-1-5-8-in-Steel-Snap-Tie-with-Felt-ST1586WFW/202090741
Could anyone tell me, How much the area formwork productivity for one skilled labor in hour?
Just found you guys and I love your videos and watching your quality workmanship.
Thanks!!
Hello sir, in this video what size rebar did you use? Thanks.
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