Thank you so much for this video. I also have a 78 911 SC and I have the same problem and thank you so much. I’m gonna try to do what you’ve done in this video.
check to see if you have time serts. Get a magnet and place on any of the studs to see if they are steel. some engines may have steel on exhaust side and non steel on intake. you really want all steel studs on mag engines to maintain max strength in these engines...If you do have a look on your engine let us know...God bless.
Hello Rebel, I measure between 10.03 and 10.10mm at the very end of my tool. After this there is very little 'meat' left at the end. However, for me the studs grabbed about 5mm from the end, where the wall thickness is of course better - you should be in a position test that with a broken bit of stud, else you would be at the pub instead! I'd start at say 10.2mm and feel for binding at all stages down to the contact with the stud, and reduce as needed to get it in there with minimal binding to the head and/or cylinder. Binding can feel like engagement with the stud. I was fooled by that at first. Also, I reduced the tool to 10.0mm or a bit less as of about 10mm from the end ... there is more material on the inside there so you can afford to take more off, and you don't want it to bind where it is easy to avoid it. This also helps to avoid any high spots that lead to lack of linearity in the rabbit hole You might have noticed in the video (but maybe not stated) we tapped the tool moderately firmly with a hammer as we put heavy torque on the tool. This may not be needed except for an initial tap to let the tool 'bite'. We kept up the tapping for all studs as we had success doing that with the first one ... maybe if it wanted to slip we were stopping that by keeping the engagement tight. Take a lot of time (and heat) and give yourself the best chance of success. Please let us know how you go, and any tips you have. Good Luck! Brian
@ Thanks, Brian. I’ll give it another shot. I’m trying to get a stud out with the ending in the car. I can’t access the base to get heat on it, so it’s a long shot for me.
![3.2L Porsche 911 Cabriolet: Broken stud/Engine removal/Disassembly [4K] Ep105](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/6tVUtK45JuU/mqdefault.jpg)
![3.2L Porsche 911 Cabriolet: Broken stud/Engine removal/Disassembly [4K] Ep105](/img/tr.png)
![1974 Porsche 911 coupe: Case drill, tap and Case Saver Installation [4K] Ep110](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/W6HH1bU_AIk/mqdefault.jpg)
Lucky! Great video.
Of course when they break at the case surface, there's no avoiding splitting the case.
Thank you so much for this video. I also have a 78 911 SC and I have the same problem and thank you so much. I’m gonna try to do what you’ve done in this video.
I hope it works for you as well as it did for me! Be sure to let us know how you go!!
Omg. This gives me hope. I’m considering buying an SC that has a broken stud.
Brilliant solution, hope I never need it but I have a 2.7 mag case.
you've unfortunately got way bigger problems then :(
check to see if you have time serts. Get a magnet and place on any of the studs to see if they are steel. some engines may have steel on exhaust side and non steel on intake. you really want all steel studs on mag engines to maintain max strength in these engines...If you do have a look on your engine let us know...God bless.
Looks great. I'm about to tackle this project. What did OD was the Koken extractor once you turned it down?
Hello Rebel,
I measure between 10.03 and 10.10mm at the very end of my tool. After this there is very little 'meat' left at the end. However, for me the studs grabbed about 5mm from the end, where the wall thickness is of course better - you should be in a position test that with a broken bit of stud, else you would be at the pub instead! I'd start at say 10.2mm and feel for binding at all stages down to the contact with the stud, and reduce as needed to get it in there with minimal binding to the head and/or cylinder. Binding can feel like engagement with the stud. I was fooled by that at first. Also, I reduced the tool to 10.0mm or a bit less as of about 10mm from the end ... there is more material on the inside there so you can afford to take more off, and you don't want it to bind where it is easy to avoid it. This also helps to avoid any high spots that lead to lack of linearity in the rabbit hole
You might have noticed in the video (but maybe not stated) we tapped the tool moderately firmly with a hammer as we put heavy torque on the tool. This may not be needed except for an initial tap to let the tool 'bite'. We kept up the tapping for all studs as we had success doing that with the first one ... maybe if it wanted to slip we were stopping that by keeping the engagement tight.
Take a lot of time (and heat) and give yourself the best chance of success. Please let us know how you go, and any tips you have.
Good Luck! Brian
@ Thanks, Brian. I’ll give it another shot. I’m trying to get a stud out with the ending in the car. I can’t access the base to get heat on it, so it’s a long shot for me.