Hey! Thanks for all the comments! A couple of things to note: foul language isn't accepted, that's why a few comments are gone. And as far as enclosures with PETG goes, it's widely accepted by filament makers and printer manufacturers that you "generally" get a better chance at a great print with an enclosure. I was a little "too" general in my comment, so I apologize for that. Among my ten 3D printers, only 3 have enclosures, and the others don't do well with PETG. Brands, moisture, humidity, where you live... all that factors in as well. Hopefully that clears up a few things. Thanks again!
Yes I see recently people saying this, the newbees. I think they hear one guy say it by mistake so now they just copying what they say without insight.
Hey! It's widely accepted that you should "generally" use an enclosure with PETG by filament makers and printer manufacturers. That's not to say that a veteran user with a dialed-in printer won't get great prints, it's absolutely possible. I've done it. BUT... a majority of people I help are beginners, and it's the best place to get started. That said, I should have been a little more "general" in my video. Thanks for letting me know! And thanks for watching!
Yeah well-made vid but modern printers have absolutely no problems printing PETG without an enclosure. It can be more difficult to print for other reasons, but lack of enclosure isn't one of them. Well-made vid overall though!
PLA isn't porous. The reason why it's not good for food is the layer lines. That can be said about all 3D prints. None of them are food safe unless you add a layer of epoxy or something else to seal. PETG doesn't need an enclosure. Printed with it for years on my Ender 3 with no issues. I almost always print with PETG. PLA has zero benefits over PETG other than ease of printing for beginners. Also PETG sands much easier than PLA.
I would slightly disagree with you. The only downside to petg for me is moisture absorption. I just go straight to ABS or ASA for most of my prints. After that is petg or tpu depending on what I need to accomplish. I'm meh on PLA.
you can't compare heat resistant for samples with so different colors in car, the results are not fine! because the main heat transfer mechanism is RADIATION (sun light) and it very different for samples different colors. Also strength test by hands....this video without any helping information
I do NOT understand why people suddenly keep saying petg must be printed in a closed setting. I have been printing mainly with petg for over 4 years and this was never a thing, and no print problems, just recently some people jumped on the bandwagon saying it needs enclosure. It does NOT need enclosure......
Hey! You are correct that not everyone needs an enclosure. It's widely accepted by filament makers and printer manufacturers that it "generally" gives you the best chance for a great a print. I have printed PETG on my Longer LK-5 with varying degrees of success (and failure!). But with the K1 or P1S closed, I have almost no issues closing it up. Filament brands, humidity, moisture... they all play a factor. I always attempt to help beginners before seasoned pros, so yes, I should have been a little less general in my comment. Thanks for helping me out and watching!
I've had 3d printers for about 14 years now, and PLA is still my go-to material for 95% of what I print. In that time I've had PLA fail me _once_ due to heat. I dunno, maybe I'm the odd one not making stuff that has to sit and bake in a hot car which is always the example people use against PLA. People also often mistake the "snap" failure of PLA as it being weaker. Well that all depends on what you need, no? If you need a stiff print, then PLA might be a good match for you. And once again I've rarely had strength be a limiting factor. Hell I even made a press brake thingimajob once upon a time where I used a vice and PLA forms to bend 3mm aluminium sheets, worked great.
Only heat failure I've had was when I accidentally left a print in the car last week. When I got in, I picked it up and promptly folded it in half, it was so soft.
Petg has printed very, very well without any warping, without any enclosure, and even sometimes without a heated bed for literal years now... If you need an enclosure for petg, You got a big problem...
Worst thing of PETG is stringing. PLA is still my go to material for everyday print. Since the old reprap days everybody knows that PLA is not good at fighting heat ;)
5:35 There are stores for 3D Printing that have shelves like this!? It's probably not in or near Los Angeles, but I wish one was! I'm just old enough to appreciate walking in and asking questions than dealing with order/return or talking with a chat bot. lol
Yep, MicroCenter! I snuck a quick vid and tried to make sure it didn't have any signage. That one is near Atlanta. And yes, I'm there with you about talking to real people in a store!
Never printed PLA, it is too expensive comparing to PETG. ABS is even more cheaper, but it smells. Have plans to print it though. Have a couple of ABS spools, but did not try it yet.
Do NOT print ABS or ASA without ventilation. If the room is sealed, wear a respirator when in the room while the printer is going. The styrene fumes are toxic and carcinogenic.
Yes, ABS smells it depends from brand to brand. Also you need to print 24/7 and live and sleep in a room without ventilation, for a month or so, to have real harm from it, if you use quality brand of course. But I agree, the less you inhale those fumes the better.
It’s my understanding that PLA is “stronger” in the sense that it takes more force to snap it. The reason why your subjective test is concluding that PET-G is stronger is because it’s bending. So it seems to you that you have to try harder to snap it. When you put these things on a machine rig the PET-G bending doesn’t affect anything. It eventually fails under less load as than PLA. Of course, when PLA goes it goes instantly without bending. But it requires more force to do it than it takes to snap (or catastrophically fail on the care of thin parts) PET-G. So if you’re making something like a bracket that will be under only static load, not impact, rigid, and interior use, PLA is stronger. That doesn’t mean PET-G isn’t strong enough too, but PLA is just so easy to work with. And technically “better” for such applications anyway.
Hi. I’ve had my P1S for a week, big learning curve😉, and it’s pretty good I must say. My question. You say PLA melts at 190C. I use bambu Studio settings, and for Bambu PLA, the temperature it sets is 220C. On-line 220 also appears to be the recommended temperature for PLA. As it’s difficult to see what’s happening during printing, my next project is to print an 18mm high ring which sits on top of the P1S, and holds a strip of COB lights. This also stops the filament tube rubbing on the glass. I must admit I don’t yet know if these get hot enough to affect the PLA. When I receive the strip lights I will check to see how hot they run. In the meantime any thoughts? Thanks Noel.
PLA may deform in this condition. With the COB and inside the enclosure you may reach temperatures where PLA will already deform. PETG would be your better choice. Contrary to this video, PETG doesn't need an enclosure and I usually print it with the doors open, because it will get too warm inside for it with a long print and causes problems with cooling. With fast printers, the profiles usually are on the higher side for printing to improve flow. On each roll you should find a temperature range and I would start at the higher side and go cooler if stringing will be a problem or if you print slow and your filament begins to get bad if it stays too long in your hotend at that temperature. Your COB lights themselves could need to be stuck on a material that can transfer the heat out of it. Usually they are put into aluminium profiles for that. Sticking them on plastic may shorten their lifetime. See what your COB manufacturer recommends.
Other comments get more into it, so I'll just add that 190 is just an "accepted" starting point. I had one PLA filament a while back that would string at 190, but ran great at 185, and others that really liked 215. I've also had PETG work great with and without enclosures, but have better success enclosed. Every filament works a little differently, that's why there's so many test prints, etc. As far as the lights go, testing is really your only option with PLA. I would go PETG if it's an option. If they do get hot, you could end up with some problems. Good luck and thanks for watching!
@@my3DPrintLab Thanks for all the helpful comments, gratefully received. As I said, I’m using Bambu PLA standard, and the settings in bamboo studio, which are 220C and I’ve had no problems at all. In fact the prints I’ve done so far, using almost 1kg of filament, are to my mind neigh on perfect. Many thanks Noel.
Hey! Thanks for all the comments!
A couple of things to note: foul language isn't accepted, that's why a few comments are gone.
And as far as enclosures with PETG goes, it's widely accepted by filament makers and printer manufacturers that you "generally" get a better chance at a great print with an enclosure. I was a little "too" general in my comment, so I apologize for that. Among my ten 3D printers, only 3 have enclosures, and the others don't do well with PETG. Brands, moisture, humidity, where you live... all that factors in as well.
Hopefully that clears up a few things. Thanks again!
Needs an enclosure, and a warm room with no drafts? Pretty sure you're describing ABS, not PETG.
Yes I see recently people saying this, the newbees. I think they hear one guy say it by mistake so now they just copying what they say without insight.
@@arniekando6846 EXPERIENCED 3d printers know PETG shouldn't be in an enclosure.
Hey! It's widely accepted that you should "generally" use an enclosure with PETG by filament makers and printer manufacturers. That's not to say that a veteran user with a dialed-in printer won't get great prints, it's absolutely possible. I've done it. BUT... a majority of people I help are beginners, and it's the best place to get started. That said, I should have been a little more "general" in my video. Thanks for letting me know! And thanks for watching!
Yeah well-made vid but modern printers have absolutely no problems printing PETG without an enclosure.
It can be more difficult to print for other reasons, but lack of enclosure isn't one of them.
Well-made vid overall though!
PLA isn't porous. The reason why it's not good for food is the layer lines. That can be said about all 3D prints. None of them are food safe unless you add a layer of epoxy or something else to seal.
PETG doesn't need an enclosure. Printed with it for years on my Ender 3 with no issues.
I almost always print with PETG. PLA has zero benefits over PETG other than ease of printing for beginners. Also PETG sands much easier than PLA.
I would slightly disagree with you. The only downside to petg for me is moisture absorption. I just go straight to ABS or ASA for most of my prints. After that is petg or tpu depending on what I need to accomplish. I'm meh on PLA.
Does this dude even print ? He has no clue what he is talking about 😂
you can't compare heat resistant for samples with so different colors in car, the results are not fine! because the main heat transfer mechanism is RADIATION (sun light) and it very different for samples different colors. Also strength test by hands....this video without any helping information
Neat tests, I am curious if the the white PETG vs the colored PLA may have caused more light absorption and more heat retention.
PETG in enclosure is asking for failure. This is so wrong it's sad.
For outdoors and automotive, I've been using a lot of ASA.
Do you plan any comparision with ABS?
HTPLA is a good option. PETG though is a great option and works well enough without an enclosure.
I do NOT understand why people suddenly keep saying petg must be printed in a closed setting. I have been printing mainly with petg for over 4 years and this was never a thing, and no print problems, just recently some people jumped on the bandwagon saying it needs enclosure. It does NOT need enclosure......
Hey! You are correct that not everyone needs an enclosure. It's widely accepted by filament makers and printer manufacturers that it "generally" gives you the best chance for a great a print. I have printed PETG on my Longer LK-5 with varying degrees of success (and failure!). But with the K1 or P1S closed, I have almost no issues closing it up. Filament brands, humidity, moisture... they all play a factor. I always attempt to help beginners before seasoned pros, so yes, I should have been a little less general in my comment. Thanks for helping me out and watching!
I've had 3d printers for about 14 years now, and PLA is still my go-to material for 95% of what I print. In that time I've had PLA fail me _once_ due to heat. I dunno, maybe I'm the odd one not making stuff that has to sit and bake in a hot car which is always the example people use against PLA.
People also often mistake the "snap" failure of PLA as it being weaker. Well that all depends on what you need, no? If you need a stiff print, then PLA might be a good match for you. And once again I've rarely had strength be a limiting factor. Hell I even made a press brake thingimajob once upon a time where I used a vice and PLA forms to bend 3mm aluminium sheets, worked great.
Only heat failure I've had was when I accidentally left a print in the car last week. When I got in, I picked it up and promptly folded it in half, it was so soft.
Petg has printed very, very well without any warping, without any enclosure, and even sometimes without a heated bed for literal years now...
If you need an enclosure for petg, You got a big problem...
lmao petg doesn't need an enclosure XD
How do you tell the difference between PLA and PETG?
Worst thing of PETG is stringing. PLA is still my go to material for everyday print. Since the old reprap days everybody knows that PLA is not good at fighting heat ;)
I never had a good petg print until I got a Bambu A1 mini. It just LOVES petg. Prints flawlessly.
5:35 There are stores for 3D Printing that have shelves like this!? It's probably not in or near Los Angeles, but I wish one was! I'm just old enough to appreciate walking in and asking questions than dealing with order/return or talking with a chat bot. lol
That is a MicroCenter store. They're fairly common in the US. Site says the closest one to LA is in Tustin, CA
Yep, MicroCenter! I snuck a quick vid and tried to make sure it didn't have any signage. That one is near Atlanta. And yes, I'm there with you about talking to real people in a store!
Never printed PLA, it is too expensive comparing to PETG. ABS is even more cheaper, but it smells. Have plans to print it though. Have a couple of ABS spools, but did not try it yet.
Do NOT print ABS or ASA without ventilation. If the room is sealed, wear a respirator when in the room while the printer is going. The styrene fumes are toxic and carcinogenic.
Yes, ABS smells it depends from brand to brand. Also you need to print 24/7 and live and sleep in a room without ventilation, for a month or so, to have real harm from it, if you use quality brand of course. But I agree, the less you inhale those fumes the better.
Haha, ankermake m5c in the room.
Finally someone who calls it PET-G instead of P E T G! Yay!
LOL! And (hard G) GIF instead of JIF. Right? Thanks!
Good Test that anyone can try at home. Good Job.
where is the store? I have order it all
Looks like Micro Center - @microcentertech
Micro Center
It’s my understanding that PLA is “stronger” in the sense that it takes more force to snap it. The reason why your subjective test is concluding that PET-G is stronger is because it’s bending. So it seems to you that you have to try harder to snap it. When you put these things on a machine rig the PET-G bending doesn’t affect anything. It eventually fails under less load as than PLA. Of course, when PLA goes it goes instantly without bending. But it requires more force to do it than it takes to snap (or catastrophically fail on the care of thin parts) PET-G.
So if you’re making something like a bracket that will be under only static load, not impact, rigid, and interior use, PLA is stronger. That doesn’t mean PET-G isn’t strong enough too, but PLA is just so easy to work with. And technically “better” for such applications anyway.
Hi. I’ve had my P1S for a week, big learning curve😉, and it’s pretty good I must say. My question. You say PLA melts at 190C. I use bambu Studio settings, and for Bambu PLA, the temperature it sets is 220C. On-line 220 also appears to be the recommended temperature for PLA.
As it’s difficult to see what’s happening during printing, my next project is to print an 18mm high ring which sits on top of the P1S, and holds a strip of COB lights. This also stops the filament tube rubbing on the glass.
I must admit I don’t yet know if these get hot enough to affect the PLA. When I receive the strip lights I will check to see how hot they run.
In the meantime any thoughts?
Thanks Noel.
PLA may deform in this condition. With the COB and inside the enclosure you may reach temperatures where PLA will already deform. PETG would be your better choice. Contrary to this video, PETG doesn't need an enclosure and I usually print it with the doors open, because it will get too warm inside for it with a long print and causes problems with cooling.
With fast printers, the profiles usually are on the higher side for printing to improve flow. On each roll you should find a temperature range and I would start at the higher side and go cooler if stringing will be a problem or if you print slow and your filament begins to get bad if it stays too long in your hotend at that temperature.
Your COB lights themselves could need to be stuck on a material that can transfer the heat out of it. Usually they are put into aluminium profiles for that. Sticking them on plastic may shorten their lifetime. See what your COB manufacturer recommends.
@@drstefankrank Some pla will absolutely print at 190, but you risk it not melting fully before being extruded, especially at higher speeds.
Other comments get more into it, so I'll just add that 190 is just an "accepted" starting point. I had one PLA filament a while back that would string at 190, but ran great at 185, and others that really liked 215. I've also had PETG work great with and without enclosures, but have better success enclosed. Every filament works a little differently, that's why there's so many test prints, etc. As far as the lights go, testing is really your only option with PLA. I would go PETG if it's an option. If they do get hot, you could end up with some problems. Good luck and thanks for watching!
@@my3DPrintLab Thanks for all the helpful comments, gratefully received.
As I said, I’m using Bambu PLA standard, and the settings in bamboo studio, which are 220C and I’ve had no problems at all. In fact the prints I’ve done so far, using almost 1kg of filament, are to my mind neigh on perfect.
Many thanks Noel.