Jake, I like the fact that once the scope gets attached all guessing goes away and you can actually see what is going on. It also helps that the scope is in the hands of a talented user. Appreciate you taking us through the process step by step. Thanks for Sharing!
Awesome diag Jake. I remember once I diag'd an older ford van the customer believed had a bad transmission . Vehicle would shift erratically, banging into gear, etc. I checked the powers/grounds to the trans module in the trans. Couldn't find any problem. Almost called a bad trans module but decided to test drive one more time. Noticed a slight intermittent misfire, that's when I suspected I had RFI interfering with the trans module. Sure enough, replaced coils and problem was gone. Crazy! Great approach to finding your problem. Thanks again for sharing this and thanks for what you do!
Great diag! Imagine figuring this out without a scope. Impossible. Great case study and this will definitely be stored in the memory bank. Keep up the good work!
Thank you for making these videos, I watched this video when it came out and last night, I was called to look at the same truck with the same code. Truck was at 4 other garages with numerus sensors put on and said it was a bad ecm. I told the shop owner that I thought I seen a video a while back and I thought it was an ignition coil causing this code to set. He told me I was crazy that there's no way that a coil will set cam sensor codes. I hooked up my Pico and seen the same waveform as you have, but I was getting 60-volt spikes occasionally while driving. Thanks again.
Wish I would have found your video 2 yrs ago! Think I have replaced 5 in the last 2 years. I was getting intermittent camshaft position sensor about every 3 to 6 months as well as my outside air temp was way low but not the temp saying it's bad. THANK YOU!!!!
Mine had and same code, and did this days ago and multiple times a day as it went into limp mode aka 4th gear lock with traction control light on. My solution. Adding engine oil cause mine was low (2+ quarts). I know I didn’t believe it either but it solved mine. Try easy stuff first. You’re welcome!
Excellent diag! Really well explained. Without a good oscilloscope this one would have been a parts canon! A lot to learn as always! thank you for sharing!
I get a lot of Ford Fiesta and Focus with charging faults - usually they come in with new alternators that haven't fixed the problem. The TI-VCT (Sigma) engines run a waste spark system with coil pack on the #4 end of the head and 4 leads. One of the leads breaks down internally at the coil pack end and there's enough energy in the system to jump the gap and not have a misfire under load - but it radiates massive electromagnetic fields and corrupts the LIN signal. On one particular version of the 1.6 the LIN wire is high up by the head and even more susceptible to ignition interference. For cars equipped with them, usually sets an active grille shutter fault too (same LIN bus) Generally find one of the coil towers full of blue dust, but either way, simple resistance check of the leads proves it needs a set. Aftermarket are never the correct length, so go genuine. The baffled look on the tech from the other shop when you tell them it needs a set of ignition leads to fix the charging fault :D
I know this video is a lil old but thank you for making it now I have a lead on what's wrong with my 2010 1500 cuz that's the exact code and I just replaced the cam sensor but with 150,000+ miles and stock plugs and coils I can see why so, 16 new NGK spark plugs and 8 new coils and we'll see what happens, but thank you man
This is a perfect example of why having a lab scope in your arsenal is so important. I still use my DMM for your common stuff but when it comes to sensors and data the scope is my go to.
Watching you do this felt like my real life shop life😂 Seriously, I have been there and done this, comrade! Only thing I would have done different is I would have used the amp clamp for my coil sync (not cause it’s better; just cuz it’s easy, but also because I would have been interested to ultimately move it to the bad one, being curious about the kinda current it was pulling (might have suggested shorting coil vs secondary issue at the cause). Great video though Jake! The people need to see this stuff to know what’s happening in real troubleshooting shops!
Jake, going to be honest I have not watched the video yet, wanted this comment to reflect what I thought of when I read the title. I’m working on a Kia optima right now, crank, no start. with a crank sensor code. That will just keep on coming back. My DIY customer through so many parts of this thing. It’s unbelievable, including a high-pressure fuel pump, earth cam sensors, the crank sensor to name a few. Just figured out yesterday that if I unplug the high-pressure fuel pump, it starts… Going to finish my Diag tomorrow, but just wanted to say your title. reminds me of that in this video! Anyways, man gonna watch the rest of the video now! Rock on, I have learned a lot from you you’re a bad ass! Thanks!
watched the rest of it, That’s very interesting! I’ll keep that in mind for when I get a tricky one like that! Definitely not something you see every day. Thanks for the great contact!
So, guys, I have been having this issue for over a week now. I changed the cam and crank position sensors on my 04 Durango 5.7 and the problem persist. So I kept feeling kicks in the engine while driving when the light was out. I figured out that my engine was misfiring due to a faulty ignition coil. This code must be a fantom code that comes on BEFORE the coil fully gives out. So I replaced all 8 coils and my D-rango is running like a top. Thanks for the video.
What an interesting presentation for a bad plug connection. Presumably the bad contact led to higher secondary voltage which was picked up at the 5V reference by induction. I guess it didn't misfire because it wasn't necessarily shorted to ground
I have the Pico 2204 because it was inexpensive but the 4425 is on my wish list. I also just ordered a one channel scope for less than $100 hoping I can use it for some quick testing with the idea scope data would be more useful than what you can read with a DVOM. Reading sensor signals, network activity, and the like to determine a direction then use a better scope for the final diagnostic testing. That's the plan at least.
You can get some ok scopes for cheap. Granted they aren't even in the same league as the Pico, but they have their place, especially if you don't need actual buffer logging, etc... If you just need a good live view of whats happening. I have the 8 channel Hantek 1008, also some of the ScopeMeters from Hantek aren't bad, the 2 channel 70Mhz I think it is, is also pretty good. Of course I recommend H-Scope on android as a front end for some of the cheaper scopes. H-scope can turn a cheap scope into something that punches way above it's price point. For example I can get very nice looking fuel injector waveforms from my cheapo Hantek, also can check various systems, like crank sensor output, Idle air control valves, primary and secondary ignition waveforms, etc...
PICO #1 scope with deep measure works great. You can run the picked fence and it will show each drop out, can set threshold also with other measurement setups. Personally a snapon scope is 10 yrs behind our time for the dollar. Good video content 👍
Awesome video and diagnosis. Trying to figure that one out without the scope would be tough. That would take a lot of reloading on the parts cannon. 😂😂
I have seen before on a Ford Ranger. It sets an O2 sensor code but the waveform capture says otherwise. If we didn't use the Snapon our scope would have been fried.
Great thought process leading to a solid diagnostic, Jake! Pretty weird fault, though. That sensor ground seems a bit too noisy, but maybe it's just the way it is. Yep, only a scope can get these.
Crank shaft sensor but more what the sensor reads ,: attached to the flexpyknown as the " reluctor ring " has a magnetic strip that falls apart, to access it is to remov the trans, may as well perform other maintenance torque converter, flexplate swap new cost $65. ( Thinking only the sensor on the outside is bad, is verified by checking if it works with a 9 volt battery
Mine was due to a bad VVT sprocket. Mechanic scoped both the camshaft and crankshaft position sensor and found nothing wrong until he took out the cam position sensor, stuck a screwdriver inside the sensor opening, and found the sprocket vvt cover was loose causing the intermittent signal.
Wow brilliant case study, Thanks! This would be a good place to use the escan elite with the escope I think it can stop the scope when the code sets. I just cant justify the investment when I'm really happy with my Pico.
For curiosity's sake, I would be interested in seeing if a Faraday bag tied around the CMP Sensor might give a hint that the source of interference is from radiation of an external electromagnetic source. In this case it was but I would like to see if the Faraday Bag idea would help in the troubleshooting approach. ??
i service a fleet of hemis have seen the boots be like that when i forget to put dielectric grease on them and you cannot use any plug but what comes in them if you want them to run correctly. have tried several times and always have to go back oem in fact i get all of them from mopar
Unfortunately he didn’t replace the coils and prove out his diagnosis by the problem being resolved as more driving may have revealed the code again with new coils as well. That was a lot of noise on the 5v and 0v. Seems like there may also have been a ground problem.
Moving the coil and seeing the fault in the sensor change locations wasn't clear enough? The shop did replace that coil and it didn't return. Sorry I can't always stick around and wait for a part as I'm not a repair person just testing to come to a conclusion. As for the noise that is mostly from referencing battery ground and reading the signal. The PCM will have some noise reduction and if I referenced the sensor ground for the signal it would be much cleaner and more accurate to what the module is seeing. The thought that you have to reference battery ground isn't entirely accurate but it's good practice. If I remember correctly scannerdanner has a video showing noise in a signal circuit that isn't really there because he was referenced to battery ground and switched to reference the sensor ground and had a perfectly clean signal. Maybe one day I'll do a video on scope grounding and cover this.
That was awesome!!! 2 questions, 1. The Attenuator, that's a new one to me. When would I employ one? 2. What was the tell tale thought that brought you to check a coil?
@timbo19751975 Throughout the dozens of automotive classes I've taken, in every single one was an asshat genius that needed to run their pie hole when someone asked a question. He literally gives zero explanation as to why he felt a coil was causing the anomaly. Nor was there any information as to how it caused the problem on a circuit it's not connected to or why it didn't affect any other sensors. Secondly, he gave no explanation of what an attenuator was for and never mentioned it was ONLY for a 2 wire coil, and NO OTHER circuit needs one for testing. Maybe he could help you with improving your comprehensive abilities?...
IF im not mistaken I believe most mopar coils have black boots so that one you have there might be aftermarket. I definetley want a scope now...havent had much problem vehicles but on this one I probably would have had a hard time without the scope. It looks like the 4425a is the one to go with? Is it best to just buy the starter kit or just buy the actual pico on its own and add as I go? Also what's the best way to accumulate test leads? Buy pieces/parts and make my own or just buy a ton for the pico? Thank you for the help VERY much appreciated.
THANK YOU FOR THE VIDEO ,,, HOW DID YOU IDENTIFY NUMBER SIX CYLINDER . I SEE YOU USED NUMBER ONE CYLINDER AS YOUR SYNC,,,,,,,,, AND WHERE YOU USING THE SPIKES IN THE CAM NEGATIVE SIGNAL AS THE ENGINES FIRING ORDER . ADVANCED TECHNIQUES FOR SURE THANKS AGAIN ?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
The reason for the attenuator is to protect the scope from the high voltage the coil produces because it becomes much higher than 12 v. and basically acts like a resistor so when it hits the scope depending on the attenuator it can be 10x less than it would be. For example if coil produces 40v the attenuator reads to the scope 4v. (40/10) and with the scope you can multiply it by 10 to read what it would be at the coil.
hi ... I'm from Iraq I'm very interesting in your channel and I'm learn from this Troubleshooting good job thank you ..... one question plz can you advise me for best test tools from amazon such as test leads/back probes/ piercing tool / multimeter /dc clamp meter etc. any thing you see helpful in this field plz I'm just a beginner ( one year car technician Jeep /Dodge /Ram ) ...... sorry if my English not good but i understand you very good especially your Sierra Injector Fault video 💪💪💪
I have a 2016 ram 1500 5.7l I'm having issues with it right now I replaced all the sensors that I could have and engine comes on when it's very cold and traction control light comes on same code p0344 but I'm hearing I might need a new timing chain set or new harness and then this tone ring or wheel thing I've never heard of but it runs and drives great never had more issues with this then anything else in your professional opinion what do you think I need to do replace the timing chain now before it breaks or replace the tone ring or gear or the harness I'm lost for hope
Snap on es not enough for intermittent faults , I learned that the hard way , when your technical level increased the demand of your equipment too, snap on has terrible buffer that when the fault occurred you have to be ready to stop the captures if you do not do it next screen comes and try to duplicate the fault .
Thanks for the replies I appreciate it. I'm just starting to learn how to use a lab scope. Thanks also for the great diag videos . Keep up the good work.
They do not. Snap on when in the code display menu are coded to constantly send a code request message to the module and automatically updates. As far as I know that is the only tool that does that. Most factory tools won't do that either because it's taking up space on the network, granted it's a low priority message but it is increased bus activity.
Firing order, having a known sync, and I think using the phase rulers set for 8 cylinders. This video has been a while back so I can't remember exactly how I did it but that's what I normally do.
@@autodiagyt Thanks. I saw the sync and the firing order but I couldn't figure out how you counted from the reference cylinder. The pico is super cool I can't wait to learn more about it
Great diag! The power of the scope, knowing what youre looking at & a solid diagnostic process!
Jake, I like the fact that once the scope gets attached all guessing goes away and you can actually see what is going on. It also helps that the scope is in the hands of a talented user. Appreciate you taking us through the process step by step. Thanks for Sharing!
Awesome diag Jake. I remember once I diag'd an older ford van the customer believed had a bad transmission . Vehicle would shift erratically, banging into gear, etc. I checked the powers/grounds to the trans module in the trans. Couldn't find any problem. Almost called a bad trans module but decided to test drive one more time. Noticed a slight intermittent misfire, that's when I suspected I had RFI interfering with the trans module. Sure enough, replaced coils and problem was gone. Crazy!
Great approach to finding your problem. Thanks again for sharing this and thanks for what you do!
A coil primary current ramp and a secondary KV analysis may had show the reason of the spike. Great diagnostic. Very logic approach.
Great diag! Imagine figuring this out without a scope. Impossible. Great case study and this will definitely be stored in the memory bank. Keep up the good work!
Thank you for making these videos, I watched this video when it came out and last night, I was called to look at the same truck with the same code. Truck was at 4 other garages with numerus sensors put on and said it was a bad ecm. I told the shop owner that I thought I seen a video a while back and I thought it was an ignition coil causing this code to set. He told me I was crazy that there's no way that a coil will set cam sensor codes. I hooked up my Pico and seen the same waveform as you have, but I was getting 60-volt spikes occasionally while driving.
Thanks again.
The only scope I have is in a snap on scanner,. I see why you really need a Pico, thanks you for these very useful videos.
Wish I would have found your video 2 yrs ago!
Think I have replaced 5 in the last 2 years.
I was getting intermittent camshaft position sensor about every 3 to 6 months as well as my outside air temp was way low but not the temp saying it's bad.
THANK YOU!!!!
My dude! Diag is my Jam. Over 24 years in the Diesel/Auto/Everything. Your video is damn near ASMR. Thanks for the content.
Jake terrific video and awesome scope troubleshooting. Very informative. 👍 Artie
Mine had and same code, and did this days ago and multiple times a day as it went into limp mode aka 4th gear lock with traction control light on. My solution. Adding engine oil cause mine was low (2+ quarts). I know I didn’t believe it either but it solved mine. Try easy stuff first. You’re welcome!
Your information is easier to follow because of the screen overlay
and the inserts thanks.
Excellent diag! Really well explained. Without a good oscilloscope this one would have been a parts canon! A lot to learn as always! thank you for sharing!
awesome diag and video Jake , what a beautiful day there, keep up the good work , love all your videos
Hello Jake,
Your videos are always extremely well done but this one is a couple of notches higher. Superb job!
Brilliant diagnosis and scope work! Thanks for sharing.
that is thinking outside the box. good job.
I get a lot of Ford Fiesta and Focus with charging faults - usually they come in with new alternators that haven't fixed the problem.
The TI-VCT (Sigma) engines run a waste spark system with coil pack on the #4 end of the head and 4 leads.
One of the leads breaks down internally at the coil pack end and there's enough energy in the system to jump the gap and not have a misfire under load - but it radiates massive electromagnetic fields and corrupts the LIN signal.
On one particular version of the 1.6 the LIN wire is high up by the head and even more susceptible to ignition interference. For cars equipped with them, usually sets an active grille shutter fault too (same LIN bus)
Generally find one of the coil towers full of blue dust, but either way, simple resistance check of the leads proves it needs a set.
Aftermarket are never the correct length, so go genuine.
The baffled look on the tech from the other shop when you tell them it needs a set of ignition leads to fix the charging fault :D
That was an awesome diagnostics! The scope is definitely a powerful tool but only as good as the man who is using it! You are the man!
I’m having this same issue for almost a year now and it makes sense now. I was tempted to buy a new PCM but now I’m gonna try this. Thank you.
Did it work for you?
I know this video is a lil old but thank you for making it now I have a lead on what's wrong with my 2010 1500 cuz that's the exact code and I just replaced the cam sensor but with 150,000+ miles and stock plugs and coils I can see why so, 16 new NGK spark plugs and 8 new coils and we'll see what happens, but thank you man
Excellent lesson . Thanks for all your hard work teaching us.
Great video man loved every second of it!
This is a perfect example of why having a lab scope in your arsenal is so important. I still use my DMM for your common stuff but when it comes to sensors and data the scope is my go to.
Watching you do this felt like my real life shop life😂
Seriously, I have been there and done this, comrade! Only thing I would have done different is I would have used the amp clamp for my coil sync (not cause it’s better; just cuz it’s easy, but also because I would have been interested to ultimately move it to the bad one, being curious about the kinda current it was pulling (might have suggested shorting coil vs secondary issue at the cause).
Great video though Jake! The people need to see this stuff to know what’s happening in real troubleshooting shops!
Jake, going to be honest I have not watched the video yet, wanted this comment to reflect what I thought of when I read the title. I’m working on a Kia optima right now, crank, no start. with a crank sensor code. That will just keep on coming back. My DIY customer through so many parts of this thing. It’s unbelievable, including a high-pressure fuel pump, earth cam sensors, the crank sensor to name a few. Just figured out yesterday that if I unplug the high-pressure fuel pump, it starts… Going to finish my Diag tomorrow, but just wanted to say your title. reminds me of that in this video! Anyways, man gonna watch the rest of the video now! Rock on, I have learned a lot from you you’re a bad ass! Thanks!
watched the rest of it, That’s very interesting! I’ll keep that in mind for when I get a tricky one like that! Definitely not something you see every day. Thanks for the great contact!
Nice diag, when I saw the Autolite plug, I was about to say exactly what you said!
So, guys, I have been having this issue for over a week now. I changed the cam and crank position sensors on my 04 Durango 5.7 and the problem persist. So I kept feeling kicks in the engine while driving when the light was out. I figured out that my engine was misfiring due to a faulty ignition coil. This code must be a fantom code that comes on BEFORE the coil fully gives out. So I replaced all 8 coils and my
D-rango is running like a top. Thanks for the video.
great diag the value of a good scope in todays market is priceless
What an interesting presentation for a bad plug connection. Presumably the bad contact led to higher secondary voltage which was picked up at the 5V reference by induction. I guess it didn't misfire because it wasn't necessarily shorted to ground
very swift accurate data led diag. very nice 👍👍
Those were some sweet scope captures Jake! Autolites are the worst plugs ever made 😂😝
@@autodiagyt LOL NGK or bust! So weird that truck had a mixed bag of plugs... Maybe 16 NGK Iridiums would break the bank?
learning something new every day, great video
I have the Pico 2204 because it was inexpensive but the 4425 is on my wish list. I also just ordered a one channel scope for less than $100 hoping I can use it for some quick testing with the idea scope data would be more useful than what you can read with a DVOM. Reading sensor signals, network activity, and the like to determine a direction then use a better scope for the final diagnostic testing. That's the plan at least.
You can get some ok scopes for cheap. Granted they aren't even in the same league as the Pico, but they have their place, especially if you don't need actual buffer logging, etc... If you just need a good live view of whats happening. I have the 8 channel Hantek 1008, also some of the ScopeMeters from Hantek aren't bad, the 2 channel 70Mhz I think it is, is also pretty good. Of course I recommend H-Scope on android as a front end for some of the cheaper scopes. H-scope can turn a cheap scope into something that punches way above it's price point. For example I can get very nice looking fuel injector waveforms from my cheapo Hantek, also can check various systems, like crank sensor output, Idle air control valves, primary and secondary ignition waveforms, etc...
As always a awesome video and the best part of it I always learn with your videos and especially how to use osiloscope …facts
Brilliant diagnosis!
Excellent diag Jake! I like that you use Pico 7
awesome stuff. I just had same truck and only difference I cant get it to set code again to catch it like you did.
Great find there Jake 🤘🏼 one day when I grow up I wanna be just like you 😄
@@autodiagyt did you catch that new video I put out of the new gm burned me with a resistance of 120 ohms
excellent diagnostic
PICO #1 scope with deep measure works great. You can run the picked fence and it will show each drop out, can set threshold also with other measurement setups. Personally a snapon scope is 10 yrs behind our time for the dollar. Good video content 👍
Yup, Snapon has been brainwashing techs into thinking their scopes are gold for years, but in reality they are junk for the money you spend.
Very convinced on getting a scope thank you for the informative video 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Awesome video and diagnosis. Trying to figure that one out without the scope would be tough. That would take a lot of reloading on the parts cannon. 😂😂
I have seen before on a Ford Ranger. It sets an O2 sensor code but the waveform capture says otherwise. If we didn't use the Snapon our scope would have been fried.
Thank you for your time
Hero...
Thanks Jake for the valuable lesson, appreciate your videos :)
Excellent diag took some real know how for that diag.thanks for sharing Jake.
Great thought process leading to a solid diagnostic, Jake! Pretty weird fault, though. That sensor ground seems a bit too noisy, but maybe it's just the way it is. Yep, only a scope can get these.
@@autodiagyt You are right - I didn't account for the low voltage scale.
Crank shaft sensor but more what the sensor reads ,: attached to the flexpyknown as the " reluctor ring " has a magnetic strip that falls apart, to access it is to remov the trans, may as well perform other maintenance torque converter, flexplate swap new cost $65. ( Thinking only the sensor on the outside is bad, is verified by checking if it works with a 9 volt battery
Mine was due to a bad VVT sprocket. Mechanic scoped both the camshaft and crankshaft position sensor and found nothing wrong until he took out the cam position sensor, stuck a screwdriver inside the sensor opening, and found the sprocket vvt cover was loose causing the intermittent signal.
Great video and info thank you.
Great informative video as always.
Interesting video! Excellent content. 👍
God catch man !
Exellent...!!! 👌
Wow brilliant case study, Thanks! This would be a good place to use the escan elite with the escope I think it can stop the scope when the code sets. I just cant justify the investment when I'm really happy with my Pico.
Excellent find
Great job buddy keep up the good work my friend nice video
I had a P0345 code set when I overfilled the fuel tank on a 2018 Grand Caravan......??? Happened twice!
8:04 why directly jumping to the sure conclusion that its coils doing this ?
nothing else can possibly cause it too ?
Well done 👍
Nice find. Great job!
Nice work! Thanks!!
For curiosity's sake, I would be interested in seeing if a Faraday bag tied around the CMP Sensor might give a hint that the source of interference is from radiation of an external electromagnetic source. In this case it was but I would like to see if the Faraday Bag idea would help in the troubleshooting approach. ??
very cool find, thanks for this vid
good one tks
i service a fleet of hemis have seen the boots be like that when i forget to put dielectric grease on them and you cannot use any plug but what comes in them if you want them to run correctly. have tried several times and always have to go back oem in fact i get all of them from mopar
Unfortunately he didn’t replace the coils and prove out his diagnosis by the problem being resolved as more driving may have revealed the code again with new coils as well. That was a lot of noise on the 5v and 0v. Seems like there may also have been a ground problem.
Moving the coil and seeing the fault in the sensor change locations wasn't clear enough? The shop did replace that coil and it didn't return. Sorry I can't always stick around and wait for a part as I'm not a repair person just testing to come to a conclusion. As for the noise that is mostly from referencing battery ground and reading the signal. The PCM will have some noise reduction and if I referenced the sensor ground for the signal it would be much cleaner and more accurate to what the module is seeing. The thought that you have to reference battery ground isn't entirely accurate but it's good practice. If I remember correctly scannerdanner has a video showing noise in a signal circuit that isn't really there because he was referenced to battery ground and switched to reference the sensor ground and had a perfectly clean signal. Maybe one day I'll do a video on scope grounding and cover this.
Dam good job.
Nice one man!
Great job I'm not sure if my Snap-on would have seen that
Brilliant diag Jake, well done. How did you know it was a coil doing this?
That was awesome!!!
2 questions,
1. The Attenuator, that's a new one to me. When would I employ one?
2. What was the tell tale thought that brought you to check a coil?
Jake gives the answer to both your questions in the video. All you need do is watch and listen.
@timbo19751975 Throughout the dozens of automotive classes I've taken, in every single one was an asshat genius that needed to run their pie hole when someone asked a question.
He literally gives zero explanation as to why he felt a coil was causing the anomaly. Nor was there any information as to how it caused the problem on a circuit it's not connected to or why it didn't affect any other sensors. Secondly, he gave no explanation of what an attenuator was for and never mentioned it was ONLY for a 2 wire coil, and NO OTHER circuit needs one for testing. Maybe he could help you with improving your comprehensive abilities?...
anything with inductive winding, even relays incase bad diode or resistor failure ( solenoid, coils, etc ).
IF im not mistaken I believe most mopar coils have black boots so that one you have there might be aftermarket. I definetley want a scope now...havent had much problem vehicles but on this one I probably would have had a hard time without the scope. It looks like the 4425a is the one to go with? Is it best to just buy the starter kit or just buy the actual pico on its own and add as I go? Also what's the best way to accumulate test leads? Buy pieces/parts and make my own or just buy a ton for the pico? Thank you for the help VERY much appreciated.
❤❤❤
Makes me curious if it could possibly be the PCM ground that is intermittent.
It would probably throw more codes though.
THANK YOU FOR THE VIDEO ,,, HOW DID YOU IDENTIFY NUMBER SIX CYLINDER . I SEE YOU USED NUMBER ONE CYLINDER AS YOUR SYNC,,,,,,,,, AND WHERE YOU USING THE SPIKES IN THE CAM NEGATIVE SIGNAL AS THE ENGINES FIRING ORDER . ADVANCED TECHNIQUES FOR SURE THANKS AGAIN ?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
@@autodiagyt THANK YOU FOR THE REPLY ,,, THE FEEDBACK ON YOUR CHANNEL IS UNMATCHED , SIMPLY OUTSTANDING 🙏🙏🙏👍👍👍
Great video man. Quick question for you, why do you have to use an attenuator? How can one know when it would be needed? Only 2 wire systems?
The reason for the attenuator is to protect the scope from the high voltage the coil produces because it becomes much higher than 12 v. and basically acts like a resistor so when it hits the scope depending on the attenuator it can be 10x less than it would be. For example if coil produces 40v the attenuator reads to the scope 4v. (40/10) and with the scope you can multiply it by 10 to read what it would be at the coil.
Grasias
hi ... I'm from Iraq I'm very interesting in your channel and I'm learn from this Troubleshooting good job thank you ..... one question plz can you advise me for best test tools from amazon such as test leads/back probes/ piercing tool / multimeter /dc clamp meter etc. any thing you see helpful in this field plz I'm just a beginner ( one year car technician Jeep /Dodge /Ram ) ...... sorry if my English not good but i understand you very good especially your Sierra Injector Fault video 💪💪💪
Good job bro
Could that be a pinhole in the coil?? Arcing?
It looked like the ground is picking amp ramps of the coils?
nice job!
Nice work bro
I have a 2016 ram 1500 5.7l I'm having issues with it right now I replaced all the sensors that I could have and engine comes on when it's very cold and traction control light comes on same code p0344 but I'm hearing I might need a new timing chain set or new harness and then this tone ring or wheel thing I've never heard of but it runs and drives great never had more issues with this then anything else in your professional opinion what do you think I need to do replace the timing chain now before it breaks or replace the tone ring or gear or the harness I'm lost for hope
Very nice
Will a snap on lab scope be able to pick that up as well or do you need a pico scope
Snap on es not enough for intermittent faults , I learned that the hard way , when your technical level increased the demand of your equipment too, snap on has terrible buffer that when the fault occurred you have to be ready to stop the captures if you do not do it next screen comes and try to duplicate the fault .
Thanks for the replies I appreciate it. I'm just starting to learn how to use a lab scope. Thanks also for the great diag videos . Keep up the good work.
Do you have a fix video
👌
Hey sir,,,
How test primary ignition voltage 3 wire 4 wire cop coil
@@autodiagyt okay 👍
What model picoscope are you using?
How did u know the ground wasn’t dropping out? I would have got smoked on that one!!
@@autodiagyt that was really cool!! Ty
21:07 is Topdon able to update the Code so fast Like the snap on?
They do not. Snap on when in the code display menu are coded to constantly send a code request message to the module and automatically updates. As far as I know that is the only tool that does that. Most factory tools won't do that either because it's taking up space on the network, granted it's a low priority message but it is increased bus activity.
QUICK-WITTED Automotive Diagnostics & Programming
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From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 ⏰️ 08:28am
WTH! What's up with your comment style ?
How did you count out each cylinder on the scope to find out #6 was the problem?
Firing order, having a known sync, and I think using the phase rulers set for 8 cylinders. This video has been a while back so I can't remember exactly how I did it but that's what I normally do.
@@autodiagyt Thanks. I saw the sync and the firing order but I couldn't figure out how you counted from the reference cylinder. The pico is super cool I can't wait to learn more about it
Hey Jake question for you. What made you go to the coil once you saw a spike on the cam sensor?
Thats awesome. Thank you for getting back to me!
I have a cam issue with my GM 5.3 i scoped it but can’t figure why I only have wave from 0 to 3 volts?
@@autodiagyt I did I have 5 volts in ref wire.. my Square wave looks good except it’s only 3v
I don’t think timing would cause this issue it’s a p0340 sometimes p0341 circuit code
@@autodiagyt new cam sensor.. taped into pcm on signal and 5v ref..
@@autodiagyt it’s a pull down, had 5v at sensor ref And 5v signal wire sensor unplugged testing at sensor.. this is a good one lol!!
@@autodiagyt I’ll let u know what I find, good talking to u love your videos!
Nevermind. When you zoomed in it didn't look anything like amp ramps.