If you live in Arizona or a hot climate note the heat rating is 190 Fahrenheit or 87 Celsius. 3M says " Long term exposure to temperatures greater than 80º C will decrease tensile strength over time."
I agree if doing this on sumo, the rubber will get quite hot. I would not be that concerned for offroad or travel bike. I can't remember a time when I couldn't hold my hand on a tyre even in scorching hot sun.
Excessive heat will degrade pretty much anything especially rubber but so far so good and it gets pretty hot where I live 110 degrees in the summer months is normal. Tires are holding air and the sealant seems fine. Stay safe out there on 2 wheels!
I did a similar thing 15 years ago on the rear of my Africa Twin, with a Sykaflex product, less liquid and mouldable, leaving a thickness of 5mm above the spokes, because these sometimes push inwards and can cause a loss of pressure.
Do you still have the bike ? I get asked a lot how long this sealant will last and I am guessing - but probably at least 10+ years ? Continued safe riding 2 U.
@@thebritonabike Yes I still have it, but the 30 year old rim has started to be corroded, small parts of aluminum are falling off, and it can no longer guarantee an airtight seal on the edges, the Sikaflex strip on the other hand is immortal, despite the many tires changed manually which stresses her quite a bit.
@@avidtraveller97 I don't remember the acronym it was for aluminum and nautical, however almost all of them are fine, there are also those who made it with simple silicone.
Excellent video. I was looking at kits to go tubeless and shaking my head because it looked rather easy. Then I came upon your video. Sealant and valve stems. No kit needed. Perfect. I was primarily concerned with the rear tire, but heck, may as well do both.
Hey friend, buy a tube 2 measurements below the diameter of your rim, previously cleaned, install the tube and then cut it lengthwise, the sides will be on the sides of the wheel. Install the tire, inflate it and once inflated, use a cutter to cut the sides of the tube. The result is excellent and more practical.
Interesting idea .... I've never seen it done so I can't comment on the effectiveness - I'd be concerned that the flex of the tire when riding will cause the inner liner to move and possibly leak ? Continued safe riding to you.
NIce thanx. Just got a 2024 Honda Transalp 750 XL with tubed tires. There are balancing weights for spokes (outside the rim) for those that do not know.
I LOVED my old 1994 Transalp! Wish I'd never sold it .... ah well the new one is on my list to test ride for sure ! Enjoy your new ride ! I am sure it is fabulous! Continued safe riding 2 U.
@davidgun6826 1 second ago I just put my tires on the rims I let the seal cure for 6 days- front tire worked great, went right on sealed great, but I had trouble getting the rear to seat Tractionator GPS are very stiff walled. I ended up having to use the oxy-acetylene method, that worked very well. I will check to see if there is any air loss in them tomorrow then put them back on the klr
I have the pros at a bike shop mount my tires and rims - these days the tires are so stiff you need an industrial mounting machine to do it without damaging the wheel rims. Stay safe out there on 2 wheels!
I am sure that any strong bond waterproof epoxy would do the job ... as it was my first time attempting this I just went with the 'strongest' marine grade I could find. Measure twice / cut once .. no desire to have to redo it ! Continued safe riding to you !
Hi @thebritonabike what are the implications if you do want to get to the screw head after having applied that adhesive ? can you take it off without damaging the grooves of the screw, maybe with a solution ? thank you very much for the video. had to search a bit to find something like this. cheers!
If the seal ever fails on the inside of the rim and you need to access or remove the stem valve you'd simply need to cut around the base of the valve with a blade to access it and then remove it. I added some sealant around the base of the valve for added leak protection. Continued safe riding to you.
I had no balancing issues when my tires were remounted after doing the sealant. But that's why we have spoke weights IF there is a need to balance a tire on a rim. Continued safe riding to you.
i did this even though I am not so sure the tyre won't lose air after a period of time ,we will see.....reason being i 've had punctures with tubed tires and it is no joke as they tend to go down really quickly if you pick up a nail or something. A tubless tyre tends to go down more slowly giving the rider more warning and time to pull over before getting thrown off ! 😬
No idea how long but I am hoping a long long time. I'd put money on the stuff keeping a good airtight seal for at least 10+ years probably longer .. but only time will tell. Continued safe riding to you.
If I ever have to remove the stem I would need to cut around the 3M sealant. This would not affect the sealant around the spoke heads. I have NEVER had to replace an actual stem - just the internal shradder valve. But my decision to add a little extra 3M sealant around the valve stem seal was just for an added seal and layer of protection against leaks. So far so good and no leaks - in a year + of riding on them. I wish you continued safe riding.
The sealant covers the inner spoke heads - so before you apply I recommend inspecting, adjusting and tightening the heads. The sealant will lock the heads in place - if the wheel gets damaged or bent in the future spoke adjustment will be the least of your concerns ! Hardcore off road / adventure bikes / dirt bikes with spoked rims might need more future spoke adjustment due to the abuse the rims get off road - but if this mod is going on a street bike I doubt your spokes will ever need adjusting - mine never had. As far a removal - yes you can cut and peel the stuff off - but it is not easy to remove. Remember adjusting the spokes can also be done with the tire on - from the outer threaded nut on the spokes - hence the sealant will hold the spoke head inplace as you adjust. I wish you continued safe riding!
@@thebritonabike thank you for the thoughtful reply! I have 0 plan to do hardcore off-road/single track riding, but planning to do FSR / logging roads etc. it is good to know spoke adjustments can be done on the outside too. Cheers!
Really interesting video, completely different take on all the other diy tubeless conversions I've seen and you're the first person I've ever seen to have looked into the different grades of 3m sealant and the best one for this purpose. Seeing as it's been over a year now, how's the tubeless conversion holding up?
Glad you liked it! Both rims and tires are still holding air perfectly - no issues at all. I figure measure twice / cut once .. do it right the first time and don't cheap out on materials or you'll regret it. This mod works. I wish you continued safe riding!
@@thebritonabike Thanks for the reply! That's great, so glad to hear it. Have to admit it, your conversation really reminds me of the bartubeless conversion/wheels. 👍
when you tighten spokes you don’t usually have to remove the tire ! but if you have a broken spoke that needs replacement then yes you would need to use a sharp blade and cut a tiny piece of the sealant out to access the head of the spoke. Then add a blob of sealant after the spoke repair. I wish you continued safe riding.
Buddy I have just ordered the sealant and ready to do the tubeless conversion. Is yours still going fine? Did you pop in liquid tyre sealant into the tyre after?
Sealed Rims and tires are Still doing great - no leaks or flats. NO I didn't add any tire slime or liquid sealant. Make sure you check and tighten the spokes before you cover the spoke heads with the sealant. Best of luck & Continued safe riding to you.
I would carry a tire plug repair kit over a replacement tube - if the tire comes off the bead during a ride you've got bigger problems to deal with than a puncture. Best of luck & Continued safe riding to you.
@@snapcrack55 If the tire comes off the rim because the rim is bad or the bead is damaged a tube is only a temporary fix as the problem will likely cause the tire to keep coming off under load - If your wheel has recently come into contact with a curb or something else has collided with the side of your bike, it’s possible for your tire bead to be damaged. Although it’s difficult to damage a tire’s bead, it’s not impossible for it to happen when your wheel is deformed or your tire is scratched. It’s also possible for your tire bead to be damaged during installation if your installer didn’t use the proper tools. Whatever the reason, if the bead of a tire is torn, do not try to repair it or fix it on your own. It’s likely that you’ll have to replace the tire entirely. This is because the tire bead is directly tied to your tire maintaining proper air pressure. If there’s an issue with the tire bead, then your tire will leak air and you’ll lose air pressure over time. If you’ve recently hit a big rock off road or a curb hard or are concerned there’s an issue with your tire bead, have it inspected by a professional. They will be able to verify whether or not your bead was torn or just was knocked loose. It may be the case that your tire just needs to be put reseated back into its housing. Doing this on your own is difficult and even dangerous without the proper tools especially when you are out on the road in in the woods off road - . Professionals also use a lubricant to ensure that there isn’t too much stress on the tire during mounting. Remember that proper tire maintenance can also minimize any risk of your tire bead being damaged. Continued safe riding to you !
Yes if you want to add it - it won't affect the rim sealant. Personally I have had 100% success with rope seals vs liquid sealant which is not guaranteed to work - I wish you continued safe riding !
I can only state that 3M says that this sealant is a PERMANENT repair in a marine environment even below the water line. In this application (if done properly) the sealant is never going to be exposed to salt water or extremely harsh conditions - just living in the inner spoke channel bonded to the metal. It will also remain slightly flexible so any flex in the wheel should pose no problem. I expect that it will last a life time - or at least the lifetime of the rims / motorcycle. Only time will tell. If it fails at some point I will report back. Continued safe riding to you.
I slightly enlarged the existing hole for the new stem valve so that the tubeless valve will fit. Cordless electric drill with a metal bit. After the new valve got pushed into place I did add a little bit of the sealant around the inside edges of the valve for an additional airtight seal. Tires are still holding air perfect with the tubeless modification.
Probably longer than the life of the wheel .... ask me again in 10 years if the sealant is good .. except by then I probably won't own the bike. Suffice to say it is still good - with no leaks. I wish you continued safe riding!
ciao, ho eseguito la tua stessa procedura, le valvola che ho montato sono con guarnizione in gomma sotto ma ho visto che tu le hai siliconate intorno, non dovrebbero essere libere un millimetro circa per far sì che funzionino correttamente? Grazie per la risposta e per il tuo video tutorial.
These are the stems I used. I installed them before I used the 3M sealant. www.autozone.com/tire-repair-and-tire-wheel/tire-valve-stem/p/slime-hi-performance-tr416-tire-valve-stem/582043_0_0
Thanx and glad you liked the video. I added the new stems before adding the sealant. The valve stems came from my local AUTOZONE parts store. Slime Hi Performance TR416 Tire Valve Stem. Here is the link : www.autozone.com/tire-repair-and-tire-wheel/tire-valve-stem/p/slime-hi-performance-tr416-tire-valve-stem/582043_0_0
To be honest I have no idea …. Probably …. the fast cure might have slightly less adhesive strength, like with JB Weld products , the quick set has a litter less psi hold strength. Best advice I can give you is check the 3M web site and manufacturer technical specifications. FYI my conversation with the 5200 black is still holding perfectly, no leaks or issues! Good luck, and continued safe riding to you. Thanx for watching.
Any decent fill valves will do - I went with new heavy duty high quality Stainless Steel .. just because. But if you have old valves that are good - then you can totally reuse them. I just figured new would be better. Plus at less that $10 for a pair of new valves it ain't gonna break the bank. Continued safe riding 2 U.
@@Ridewithcoko I only have experience with the 3M sealant - and it is working perfectly still. No leaks. For motorcycle rim sealant I would continue to use this sealant only - continued safe riding to you.
I have tubes....I carry a bottle of tube slime or goo. So not the end of the road..... Yes love tubeless wheels.....would rather have them any day. But tubes have there place. But if I did convert....I think I may prefer the 3m tape idea.....dont loose and of the depth in the drop ctr......tyres are hard enought to get on off with out loosing depth in the drop ctr. Nick...T100 bonnie.
No loss of depth of drop - the sealant only covers the lower portion of the rim and internal spoke heads. But I get your point. Each to there own ! Best of luck & Continued safe riding to you.
It's possible - but realistically how often have you adjusted your spokes ? Spoke adjustment involves tightening the spoke nuts on the outside of the rim. The spoke head on the inside of the rim is locked in place and shouldn't turn or spin as long as it isn't damaged... thus the sealant on top of that inner spoke head remains in place. But like I said I suppose you could break the sealant if the spoke breaks or your rim is so badly out of round that serious adjustment is required .... if anything the sealant will hold your flat spoke heads in place even better . I wish you continued safe riding.
Hi I did the conversion and its good on the inside but there are leaks from the side beading or wall. Tried seating it twice but still persist. How can I fix this
Yikes ! Sorry to hear you are having problems - try putting some soapy water along the edge of the tire and rim to establish where exactly the leak is - then mark where it leaks air both rim and tire with a crayon - remove the tire and inspect the bead of the tire for damage as well as the rim where the air leak is coming from - FYI - I have only done this sealant modification on my Moto Guzzi V7 rims and my Suzuki VanVan spoked rims and had ZERO leak problems - I am guessing that either the rim is out of round or the tire bead is damaged - what bike are you doing this on ? worst case scenario I guess go back to using tubes ? Let me know how it goes and what you find. I wish you Continued safe riding.
Tubeless rims are usually cast wheels with a lip or ridge (below) to help locate and seal the tyre bead securely on the rim. This lip is also considered a safety feature which stops the tyre coming off the rim should the tyre deflate on the move. This lip also makes removing and mounting the tyre difficult by the roadside if you need to repair a tube. It varies from bike to bike and tyre to tyre, but usually, with tubeless you only need to remove a tyre to replace it when it is worn out (or destroyed), not to fix endless punctures. In my experience of over 40 motorcycles personally owned I have NEVER seen a rim without a safety lip - even if an inner tube is being used. Maybe really old pre 1970 vintage bikes that ran tubes don't have the safety lips on the rims but on all modern bikes the rims will have them. Continued safe riding to you.
@@thebritonabike Hi - only adding a comment because the T7 is a very popular model. The front does not have a safety lip. I converted the rear but had to keep a tube in the front - a pain.
@@davidmathers1141 I agree - don't put a tubeless tire on a rim without that safety beed or lip on the inner / outer edge. My rims had them - so I had no issues. Continued safe riding to you.
Way over-complicating it. Just get a tire tube one size smaller than the rim, cut the tire tube down the center, put it on the rim, put the tire on the rim, pull the excess tube out between the tire and the rim all the way around, air up the tire, trim the excess tube all around the rim on both sides. The innertube seals off the nipples inside the tire and acts as a gasket between the tire bead and the rim bead. Simple, effective, no tools required besides a razor knife. Hope this helps.
Agreed - your way is much cheaper, simpler and quicker ... but that's not the way I chose to do it ! Thanx for the comment and I wish you continued safe riding !
@@thebritonabike I will say your way is much more durable, you won't have to change the cut tube everytime you change tires, and I believe there is a fast-dry version of the 3M Marine Sealant you used that dries in 24 hours.
Measure twice, cut once and do it right the first time to avoid costly repairs, do overs or unnecessary fixes ... the 24hr dry time 3M sealant is available and has a little less overall strength when finally cured but I am sure it would be fine ... because my bike was getting rebuilt I had plenty of time to do this type of mod + cure time etc as I wasn't in a huge hurry to ride it .... nearly a year later my tire pressure is still perfect and no leaks! Continued safe riding to you. @@BillySBC
Here in the USA Amazon sells the 3M™ Marine Adhesive Sealant 5200 for $22 , looking back I bought my tube from a seller on Ebay for the same amount. I just did a google search and came up with lots of options to buy. Not sure why it's so expensive in the UK? Best of luck in your quest to buy ! Continued safe riding to you.
Good question ... sadly I can't give you a definite answer. I highly doubt it due to permanent seal and flexibility of the sealant. BUT to be safe if it was me I'd grip the spoke with some vice grips before adjusting the threaded nut at the rim and then tighten that up .. without letting the spoke turn. In my 40 + years of riding on multiple spoked rims I've never had to adjust a spoke - but then again I might just have gotten lucky. Continued safe riding to you.
If you can change a rear tube in under 10 mins out on the trail - you should film it and apply for a world record ! That would be seriously impressive ! Stay safe and continued safe riding to you !
I would love to see that ! I just removed rear tire on my triumph Bonneville at home with tools and tire stand minimum time 2 hrs. so on the trail or side of a roadway, yeah right.
5200, 3M, commonly referred to as 52Million.... lemme tell you, those rims are now f'd. You'll never get it off easily. I've seen thru-hull transducers come out shaped like a pretzel having been sealed with 52Million.... yeah, those rims are now 1-time use only. Good luck.
@@thebritonabike I, too, wish ya many safe and enjoyable miles. But I think you missed the point. 52million is really not easily removable. The label states, "Adhesive Sealant"... no lies in that, it certainly is an adhesive. And, whatever ya do, don't use Central Wheel to do your wheels... they f'd up my rear spokes on a T-Bird Sport..... that's another story though.
@@N269 No understand and I get that you have had a bad experience - but I wanted the sealant /adhesive to be permanent - if the wheel / rim gets bent then a new rim will be on order - adjusting spokes hasn't been a big deal as the inner rim spoke heads are sealed and held tight with the sealant over them. If my tire choices ever don't seal properly and require a tube again that that also is a non - issue as you simply remove the valve stem and add (go back to) a tube in your rim/tires. To me it''s a win win. And I've had NO issues - but buyer beware - caveat emptor - sometimes things go wrong. This has been done by thousands of motorcyclists all over the world for years now so it's not exactly a new hack or some newly exposed secret. I wish you safe riding and thanx for the comments. Cheers !
@@thebritonabike Cool. Just as long as you didn't get Central Wheels dicks to do your wheels.... they have no respect for care. (spokes scratched and gouged).... no care at all.
When you tighten loose spokes the threaded portion of the spoke extends outwards or away from where they attach to the inner rim. By making the rim tubeless you can still tighten loose spokes the usual way. ONLY if a bent or broken spoke needs replacement would you have to push the damaged one through the sealant and replace. Then all you'd need to do is add a blob of sealant over the repair area. Continued safe riding to you !
It's Absolutely NOT dangerous. It's simply an effective MOD that allows U 2 plug a tire rather than remove it and fix a leak in an inner tube. It's also removable if you need to repair or replace a spoke. Its' NO different to riding on NON spoked wheels. - Thanx for watching - stay safe out there on 2 wheels.
You are using a marine sealant to seal spokes. Says it all really. I'm sure this method is endorsed by the bike industry. You say this method is absolutely safe, if so I would love to see what you base this on. It's Russian roulette, absolutely safe until .......!
The 3M sealant is PERMANENT, flexible, bonds to everything and the absolute best thing to use for this application. Anyways - No worries - let's just agree to disagree. These kind of mods are very common, and there are hundreds of other RUclips videos where owners have done exactly the same thing to there wheels successfully - hopefully with no ill effect. If you are careful, thorough and accept the risk - as with most motorcycle riding nothing is 100% safe. All I have is my own experience of 43 years of motorcycle riding, owning almost 50 different motorcycles and riding 500k accident free miles. I've never been a fan of inner tubes, and repairing a motorcycle inner tube out on the road is a HUGE pain in the AS# ...... anyways thanx for watching ! Stay safe out there on 2 wheels. All the best.@@stephenparker6288
N'importe quoi.....car les jantes pour tubeless sont prévues avec des bords....des gorges pour bloquer le pneu tubeless....ce qui n'est pas le cas de jantes normales.....👎👌😤 Donc astuce obsolète et non concrète ...car là un pneu dégonflé peut tourner.....👎👌❗
La plupart des roues de moto modernes sont toutes équipées de jantes avec un talon intérieur et des rainures ainsi qu'une lèvre de sécurité pour empêcher le pneu de rouler. Moto Guzzi incluse. Mais s'il n'y a pas de talon intérieur de jante, les pneus tubeless ne sont pas recommandés. Merci pour vos commentaires et je vous souhaite de continuer à rouler en toute sécurité !
I've had to replace damaged spokes several times. This isnt a good idea! Better with properly deigned rims with spokes on outer part of rim. I agree though tubes are yesterday's solution. All bikes should be tubeless by law now!
If you are finding that you need to do regular spoke adjustment then maybe this isn't for you - but you should be able to still make adjustments without the sealant being affected. You don't take of the tire for every spoke adjustment do you ? Stay safe and continued safe riding to you !
I always follow the manufactures recommended tire pressure - unless I am doing private practice in a parking lot where lower tire pressure will give more grip. Thanx for the feedback ! Continued safe riding to you!
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Make sure to clean well and to allow the sealant to actually cure. Had one were the certriffical force pulled sealant away from the rim.
I agree ! The sealant really needs to cure fully before a tire gets mounted. Continued safe riding to you.
@@geraldsilveira8369 that is why some guys use some tape over it 👍🏾
If you live in Arizona or a hot climate note the heat rating is 190 Fahrenheit or 87 Celsius. 3M says " Long term exposure to temperatures greater than 80º C will decrease tensile strength over time."
That’s simply not true
@@KadeStringer2.0 Do you think I dreamt that up or took it directly off the 3M site? You could look that up yourself.
I agree if doing this on sumo, the rubber will get quite hot. I would not be that concerned for offroad or travel bike. I can't remember a time when I couldn't hold my hand on a tyre even in scorching hot sun.
Excessive heat will degrade pretty much anything especially rubber but so far so good and it gets pretty hot where I live 110 degrees in the summer months is normal. Tires are holding air and the sealant seems fine. Stay safe out there on 2 wheels!
Are you boiling hot person? 😅
I did a similar thing 15 years ago on the rear of my Africa Twin, with a Sykaflex product, less liquid and mouldable, leaving a thickness of 5mm above the spokes, because these sometimes push inwards and can cause a loss of pressure.
Do you still have the bike ? I get asked a lot how long this sealant will last and I am guessing - but probably at least 10+ years ? Continued safe riding 2 U.
@@thebritonabike Yes I still have it, but the 30 year old rim has started to be corroded, small parts of aluminum are falling off, and it can no longer guarantee an airtight seal on the edges, the Sikaflex strip on the other hand is immortal, despite the many tires changed manually which stresses her quite a bit.
Hello, which Sikaflex did you use? Was it the 297?
@@avidtraveller97 I don't remember the acronym it was for aluminum and nautical, however almost all of them are fine, there are also those who made it with simple silicone.
@@thebritonabike Very important is that you leave space to allow the tire to descend into the rim when you mount the tire
Excellent video. I was looking at kits to go tubeless and shaking my head because it looked rather easy. Then I came upon your video. Sealant and valve stems. No kit needed. Perfect. I was primarily concerned with the rear tire, but heck, may as well do both.
Glad I could help! Best of luck & Continued safe riding to you.
Hey friend, buy a tube 2 measurements below the diameter of your rim, previously cleaned, install the tube and then cut it lengthwise, the sides will be on the sides of the wheel. Install the tire, inflate it and once inflated, use a cutter to cut the sides of the tube. The result is excellent and more practical.
Interesting idea .... I've never seen it done so I can't comment on the effectiveness - I'd be concerned that the flex of the tire when riding will cause the inner liner to move and possibly leak ? Continued safe riding to you.
@@thebritonabikeThis method mentioned is widely used by many in Brazil.
Are there any RUclips videos showing this "Brazil" inner tube method ?@@luziosalles324
@@thebritonabike ruclips.net/video/bKPUSc8vWDc/видео.htmlsi=Zwv5jtdWRfAwpn-9
@@thebritonabike ruclips.net/video/MyuQcjoLkOc/видео.htmlsi=8TgtdeTohrviaJ45
NIce thanx. Just got a 2024 Honda Transalp 750 XL with tubed tires.
There are balancing weights for spokes (outside the rim) for those that do not know.
I LOVED my old 1994 Transalp! Wish I'd never sold it .... ah well the new one is on my list to test ride for sure ! Enjoy your new ride ! I am sure it is fabulous! Continued safe riding 2 U.
Did you convert your rims to tubeless?
@ELFpkck yes, he did. Did you not watch all or any of this video?
😂
@@onemileattatime2642 If I wanted to ask the channel’s owner I would use a separate comment not a thread one. I’ve asked the commentator @human1513
@davidgun6826
1 second ago
I just put my tires on the rims I let the seal cure for 6 days- front tire worked great, went right on sealed great, but I had trouble getting the rear to seat Tractionator GPS are very stiff walled. I ended up having to use the oxy-acetylene method, that worked very well. I will check to see if there is any air loss in them tomorrow then put them back on the klr
I have the pros at a bike shop mount my tires and rims - these days the tires are so stiff you need an industrial mounting machine to do it without damaging the wheel rims. Stay safe out there on 2 wheels!
@@danielkerr4100 Great idea .. I think I should do a video demonstrating that technique! NICE. I wish you continued safe riding !
I read somewhere some using epoxy to seal the rims, probably works the same too
I am sure that any strong bond waterproof epoxy would do the job ... as it was my first time attempting this I just went with the 'strongest' marine grade I could find. Measure twice / cut once .. no desire to have to redo it ! Continued safe riding to you !
I don't know, but epoxy my not be flexible enough after it fully cures. hope it works out OK.
Howyou will adjust ( turn ) spokes ? If you cover with sealant. And these is wheel ( disk ) not for tubeless tires.
If you read through the comments this question has been asked and answered several times. Continued safe riding to you!
Hi @thebritonabike what are the implications if you do want to get to the screw head after having applied that adhesive ? can you take it off without damaging the grooves of the screw, maybe with a solution ? thank you very much for the video. had to search a bit to find something like this. cheers!
If the seal ever fails on the inside of the rim and you need to access or remove the stem valve you'd simply need to cut around the base of the valve with a blade to access it and then remove it. I added some sealant around the base of the valve for added leak protection. Continued safe riding to you.
@@thebritonabike thank you, to you too.
That rim is f'd. yYeah you can cut around the 5200, but you'll be scratching (even though you won't see it).... just use the proper tape and a tube.
...and what of potential wheel balance issues?
I had no balancing issues when my tires were remounted after doing the sealant. But that's why we have spoke weights IF there is a need to balance a tire on a rim. Continued safe riding to you.
i did this even though I am not so sure the tyre won't lose air after a period of time ,we will see.....reason being i 've had punctures with tubed tires and it is no joke as they tend to go down really quickly if you pick up a nail or something. A tubless tyre tends to go down more slowly giving the rider more warning and time to pull over before getting thrown off ! 😬
How has it held up over the last 7 months?
Still no need for tape?
NO problems at all ... tires are holding pressure perfectly ! I am very happy with the modification and I highly recommend it !
@@thebritonabike brilliant, thanks
Any idea about how w long will this thing last?
No idea how long but I am hoping a long long time. I'd put money on the stuff keeping a good airtight seal for at least 10+ years probably longer .. but only time will tell. Continued safe riding to you.
Hello, how long has it worked out without air leaks ??
Going on 18 months of NO air leaks ! I have aired up and air down many times depending on conditions but no leaks - I wish you continued safe riding !
@ thank you, I am buying the same sealant and will follow your procedure. 🏍️💨
hi if you want to chnge the air valve how will you because it compltely molded with sealent if chnage the valve there will be a air leakage ?
If I ever have to remove the stem I would need to cut around the 3M sealant. This would not affect the sealant around the spoke heads. I have NEVER had to replace an actual stem - just the internal shradder valve. But my decision to add a little extra 3M sealant around the valve stem seal was just for an added seal and layer of protection against leaks. So far so good and no leaks - in a year + of riding on them. I wish you continued safe riding.
i need to do this on my GS
I think you'll be happy with the result. It's pretty tried and tested. Stay safe out there on 2 wheels!
Great video and tubeless tires get less flats and are safer than the tube garbage.
Very true ! Thanx for watching and continued safe riding!
How is it holding?
All good - both tires/rims are holding air perfectly with no leaks. Continued safe riding to you !
i think tape was used so you can fit a tube for emergency fix in case of larger damage
Even after doing this conversion you can always go back to using a traditional inner tube. Continued safe riding to you.
What psi did you end up running?
Maybe the tape is to protect the sealant when mounting the tire. The bead needs to drop into this area and there’s usually a lot of force on it.
@@okanaganrider4332 I think you're right
Thx, nice video, what do you do if you need to true the wheel in the future? is that sealant easy to remove?
The sealant covers the inner spoke heads - so before you apply I recommend inspecting, adjusting and tightening the heads. The sealant will lock the heads in place - if the wheel gets damaged or bent in the future spoke adjustment will be the least of your concerns ! Hardcore off road / adventure bikes / dirt bikes with spoked rims might need more future spoke adjustment due to the abuse the rims get off road - but if this mod is going on a street bike I doubt your spokes will ever need adjusting - mine never had. As far a removal - yes you can cut and peel the stuff off - but it is not easy to remove. Remember adjusting the spokes can also be done with the tire on - from the outer threaded nut on the spokes - hence the sealant will hold the spoke head inplace as you adjust. I wish you continued safe riding!
@@thebritonabike thank you for the thoughtful reply! I have 0 plan to do hardcore off-road/single track riding, but planning to do FSR / logging roads etc. it is good to know spoke adjustments can be done on the outside too. Cheers!
@@carsonau My pleasure - here is a good video showing external spoke adjustment - ruclips.net/video/EAhpngivMJA/видео.htmlsi=M5Yc5e92VgKuOQWV
Really interesting video, completely different take on all the other diy tubeless conversions I've seen and you're the first person I've ever seen to have looked into the different grades of 3m sealant and the best one for this purpose.
Seeing as it's been over a year now, how's the tubeless conversion holding up?
Glad you liked it! Both rims and tires are still holding air perfectly - no issues at all. I figure measure twice / cut once .. do it right the first time and don't cheap out on materials or you'll regret it. This mod works. I wish you continued safe riding!
@@thebritonabike Thanks for the reply! That's great, so glad to hear it. Have to admit it, your conversation really reminds me of the bartubeless conversion/wheels. 👍
How you remove the sealant come spoke retightening time? Serious question......it will be very difficult I imagine.
when you tighten spokes you don’t usually have to remove the tire ! but if you have a broken spoke that needs replacement then yes you would need to use a sharp blade and cut a tiny piece of the sealant out to access the head of the spoke. Then add a blob of sealant after the spoke repair. I wish you continued safe riding.
Buddy I have just ordered the sealant and ready to do the tubeless conversion. Is yours still going fine? Did you pop in liquid tyre sealant into the tyre after?
Sealed Rims and tires are Still doing great - no leaks or flats. NO I didn't add any tire slime or liquid sealant. Make sure you check and tighten the spokes before you cover the spoke heads with the sealant. Best of luck & Continued safe riding to you.
Do you think carrying a spare tube along would be good in case the bead falls off the rim?
I would carry a tire plug repair kit over a replacement tube - if the tire comes off the bead during a ride you've got bigger problems to deal with than a puncture. Best of luck & Continued safe riding to you.
@@thebritonabike yes a plug kit, but in case the bead slips off a tube would be fixable on the trail...
@@snapcrack55 If the tire comes off the rim because the rim is bad or the bead is damaged a tube is only a temporary fix as the problem will likely cause the tire to keep coming off under load - If your wheel has recently come into contact with a curb or something else has collided with the side of your bike, it’s possible for your tire bead to be damaged. Although it’s difficult to damage a tire’s bead, it’s not impossible for it to happen when your wheel is deformed or your tire is scratched. It’s also possible for your tire bead to be damaged during installation if your installer didn’t use the proper tools. Whatever the reason, if the bead of a tire is torn, do not try to repair it or fix it on your own. It’s likely that you’ll have to replace the tire entirely. This is because the tire bead is directly tied to your tire maintaining proper air pressure. If there’s an issue with the tire bead, then your tire will leak air and you’ll lose air pressure over time. If you’ve recently hit a big rock off road or a curb hard or are concerned there’s an issue with your tire bead, have it inspected by a professional. They will be able to verify whether or not your bead was torn or just was knocked loose. It may be the case that your tire just needs to be put reseated back into its housing. Doing this on your own is difficult and even dangerous without the proper tools especially when you are out on the road in in the woods off road - . Professionals also use a lubricant to ensure that there isn’t too much stress on the tire during mounting. Remember that proper tire maintenance can also minimize any risk of your tire bead being damaged. Continued safe riding to you !
can I put tire sealant?
Yes if you want to add it - it won't affect the rim sealant. Personally I have had 100% success with rope seals vs liquid sealant which is not guaranteed to work - I wish you continued safe riding !
How long they will be last under this process?
I can only state that 3M says that this sealant is a PERMANENT repair in a marine environment even below the water line. In this application (if done properly) the sealant is never going to be exposed to salt water or extremely harsh conditions - just living in the inner spoke channel bonded to the metal. It will also remain slightly flexible so any flex in the wheel should pose no problem. I expect that it will last a life time - or at least the lifetime of the rims / motorcycle. Only time will tell. If it fails at some point I will report back. Continued safe riding to you.
@@thebritonabike Thanks so much, I got the mission now😁
@@thebritonabikeBro kindly share your experience will help others and can learn from it
@@janaharajanrajan4652 Thank you - I plan to keep making and sharing good motorcycle content ! Continued safe riding to you.
I'd put the tape over the sealant. Lot cheaper process than getting the 72 spoke tubeless rims.
The tape works but I felt the sealant would have better longterm adhesion - and less chance of leaks. I wish you continued safe riding !
what did you with the hole for the valve stem before, during, and after this process. so a valve stem can be installed easily after?
I slightly enlarged the existing hole for the new stem valve so that the tubeless valve will fit. Cordless electric drill with a metal bit. After the new valve got pushed into place I did add a little bit of the sealant around the inside edges of the valve for an additional airtight seal. Tires are still holding air perfect with the tubeless modification.
how good this sealant holds up??
Probably longer than the life of the wheel .... ask me again in 10 years if the sealant is good .. except by then I probably won't own the bike. Suffice to say it is still good - with no leaks. I wish you continued safe riding!
Is it only for aluminium rim? Will it work on steel rims?
Yes it will work on any rims. Best of luck & Continued safe riding to you.
ciao, ho eseguito la tua stessa procedura, le valvola che ho montato sono con guarnizione in gomma sotto ma ho visto che tu le hai siliconate intorno, non dovrebbero essere libere un millimetro circa per far sì che funzionino correttamente? Grazie per la risposta e per il tuo video tutorial.
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Sono felice che il video ti abbia aiutato. Ti auguro di continuare a guidare in sicurezza!
What valve stems did you use? And are they 8mm in diameter?
These are the stems I used. I installed them before I used the 3M sealant. www.autozone.com/tire-repair-and-tire-wheel/tire-valve-stem/p/slime-hi-performance-tr416-tire-valve-stem/582043_0_0
Thanks. Very interesting. At what stage do you actually install the valve stem? Do you have a link for the valve stem?
Thanx and glad you liked the video. I added the new stems before adding the sealant. The valve stems came from my local AUTOZONE parts store. Slime Hi Performance TR416 Tire Valve Stem. Here is the link : www.autozone.com/tire-repair-and-tire-wheel/tire-valve-stem/p/slime-hi-performance-tr416-tire-valve-stem/582043_0_0
Is there any different between normal 5200 (black) & 5200 fast cure (white) in term of strenght/self leveling/viscosity?
To be honest I have no idea …. Probably …. the fast cure might have slightly less adhesive strength, like with JB Weld products , the quick set has a litter less psi hold strength. Best advice I can give you is check the 3M web site and manufacturer technical specifications. FYI my conversation with the 5200 black is still holding perfectly, no leaks or issues! Good luck, and continued safe riding to you. Thanx for watching.
@@thebritonabike thanks for the advice, definitely gonna choose 5200 normal cure because of the psi hold strenght.. Good luck
do you have to buy a brand new valve i assume ? Does it have to be made specific for that brand and bike or generic ?
Any decent fill valves will do - I went with new heavy duty high quality Stainless Steel .. just because. But if you have old valves that are good - then you can totally reuse them. I just figured new would be better. Plus at less that $10 for a pair of new valves it ain't gonna break the bank. Continued safe riding 2 U.
@@thebritonabike one more thing, thanks for the reply anyway… how ling does the modification last without issue ?
Ciao ! Ha funzionato la modifica?
Sì, ha funzionato perfettamente! Lo consiglio. Grazie per la visione e continua a guidare in sicurezza per te.
I run tubless on all my mountain bike rims. I put a latex sealant in each tire. Should you use sealant or not ans why on a motorcycle? Thanks
Me alegra que haya funcionado para ti. Gracias por el comentario. ¡Conduzca con seguridad en su motocicleta!
@@Ridewithcoko I only have experience with the 3M sealant - and it is working perfectly still. No leaks. For motorcycle rim sealant I would continue to use this sealant only - continued safe riding to you.
I have tubes....I carry a bottle of tube slime or goo.
So not the end of the road.....
Yes love tubeless wheels.....would rather have them any day.
But tubes have there place.
But if I did convert....I think I may prefer the 3m tape idea.....dont loose and of the depth in the drop ctr......tyres are hard enought to get on off with out loosing depth in the drop ctr.
Nick...T100 bonnie.
No loss of depth of drop - the sealant only covers the lower portion of the rim and internal spoke heads. But I get your point. Each to there own ! Best of luck & Continued safe riding to you.
But, when you adjust the spokes, doesn't that break the seal?????
It's possible - but realistically how often have you adjusted your spokes ? Spoke adjustment involves tightening the spoke nuts on the outside of the rim. The spoke head on the inside of the rim is locked in place and shouldn't turn or spin as long as it isn't damaged... thus the sealant on top of that inner spoke head remains in place. But like I said I suppose you could break the sealant if the spoke breaks or your rim is so badly out of round that serious adjustment is required .... if anything the sealant will hold your flat spoke heads in place even better . I wish you continued safe riding.
@@thebritonabike I always check the rim at every tire change. More often than not I need to adjust a few spokes to keep the rim true.
@@thebritonabikeThe spoke head on the inside of the rim is part of that nut, and rotates with the nut to tighten or loosen a spoke.
Do you think flexseal would work spray on or brush on?
I have no experience with that product. I'd lean to using what is tried and tested and works. Stay safe out there on 2 wheels!
Hi mate are you still happy with it, any leak?
No leaks - still holding air perfectly ! Stay safe out there on 2 wheels!
@@thebritonabike Thanks mate.
Hi
I did the conversion and its good on the inside but there are leaks from the side beading or wall. Tried seating it twice but still persist. How can I fix this
Yikes ! Sorry to hear you are having problems - try putting some soapy water along the edge of the tire and rim to establish where exactly the leak is - then mark where it leaks air both rim and tire with a crayon - remove the tire and inspect the bead of the tire for damage as well as the rim where the air leak is coming from - FYI - I have only done this sealant modification on my Moto Guzzi V7 rims and my Suzuki VanVan spoked rims and had ZERO leak problems - I am guessing that either the rim is out of round or the tire bead is damaged - what bike are you doing this on ? worst case scenario I guess go back to using tubes ? Let me know how it goes and what you find. I wish you Continued safe riding.
@ I did the conversion on the Royal Enfield Interceptor 650. Will have the rim and tyre beads inspected and update you. Thanks for the advice… :)
Did you tape off and cut out the 3M for the valve stems and reapply around them, or did you have the valve stems already seated while applying the 3M?
The valve stems were already installed - then I added sealant around the stem seal for a double seal. I wish you continued safe riding.
Do you need to change your tyres for tubeless ones?
You can run ANY tires you like - providing they fit the rims! Continued safe riding to you.
Do tubeless tyres need a different profile rim to engage with ?
Tubeless rims are usually cast wheels with a lip or ridge (below) to help locate and seal the tyre bead securely on the rim. This lip is also considered a safety feature which stops the tyre coming off the rim should the tyre deflate on the move. This lip also makes removing and mounting the tyre difficult by the roadside if you need to repair a tube. It varies from bike to bike and tyre to tyre, but usually, with tubeless you only need to remove a tyre to replace it when it is worn out (or destroyed), not to fix endless punctures. In my experience of over 40 motorcycles personally owned I have NEVER seen a rim without a safety lip - even if an inner tube is being used. Maybe really old pre 1970 vintage bikes that ran tubes don't have the safety lips on the rims but on all modern bikes the rims will have them. Continued safe riding to you.
@@thebritonabike Hi - only adding a comment because the T7 is a very popular model. The front does not have a safety lip. I converted the rear but had to keep a tube in the front - a pain.
@@davidmathers1141 I agree - don't put a tubeless tire on a rim without that safety beed or lip on the inner / outer edge. My rims had them - so I had no issues. Continued safe riding to you.
Hai carteggiato prima di usare il silicone ?
No I Just cleaned with wheel with paint thinner. ///// No, ho appena pulito con la ruota e con diluente per vernici.
@@thebritonabikeresiste ancora ? Io usero sikaflex521uv
Way over-complicating it. Just get a tire tube one size smaller than the rim, cut the tire tube down the center, put it on the rim, put the tire on the rim, pull the excess tube out between the tire and the rim all the way around, air up the tire, trim the excess tube all around the rim on both sides. The innertube seals off the nipples inside the tire and acts as a gasket between the tire bead and the rim bead. Simple, effective, no tools required besides a razor knife. Hope this helps.
Agreed - your way is much cheaper, simpler and quicker ... but that's not the way I chose to do it ! Thanx for the comment and I wish you continued safe riding !
@@thebritonabike I will say your way is much more durable, you won't have to change the cut tube everytime you change tires, and I believe there is a fast-dry version of the 3M Marine Sealant you used that dries in 24 hours.
Measure twice, cut once and do it right the first time to avoid costly repairs, do overs or unnecessary fixes ... the 24hr dry time 3M sealant is available and has a little less overall strength when finally cured but I am sure it would be fine ... because my bike was getting rebuilt I had plenty of time to do this type of mod + cure time etc as I wasn't in a huge hurry to ride it .... nearly a year later my tire pressure is still perfect and no leaks! Continued safe riding to you. @@BillySBC
Can you share where did you buy the sealant so cheap? I was able to find only for 60 GBP only.
Here in the USA Amazon sells the 3M™ Marine Adhesive Sealant 5200 for $22 , looking back I bought my tube from a seller on Ebay for the same amount. I just did a google search and came up with lots of options to buy. Not sure why it's so expensive in the UK? Best of luck in your quest to buy ! Continued safe riding to you.
Nice video. Thx for sharing.
Thanks for watching! Stay safe out there on 2 wheels !
I believe motorcycle of the 60s, 70s, use tube tire, and over the years there are problems, that why tubeless tire come in.
I wonder if the sealant splits if you need to tighten a spoke?
Good question ... sadly I can't give you a definite answer. I highly doubt it due to permanent seal and flexibility of the sealant. BUT to be safe if it was me I'd grip the spoke with some vice grips before adjusting the threaded nut at the rim and then tighten that up .. without letting the spoke turn. In my 40 + years of riding on multiple spoked rims I've never had to adjust a spoke - but then again I might just have gotten lucky. Continued safe riding to you.
Nice tires
Thanks 👍Glad you enjoyed it - Thanx for watching - stay safe out there on 2 wheels.
Bicycle rim tape could be the one you need.
Not for the pressures are stresses put on motorcycle tires at speed - bike take is for bicycles not motorcycles. I wish you continued safe riding !
We’re not using tubes in bikes either.
I wish you continued safe riding !
Hours and hours of work lol changed one yesterday on the trail in ten mins.
If you can change a rear tube in under 10 mins out on the trail - you should film it and apply for a world record ! That would be seriously impressive ! Stay safe and continued safe riding to you !
I would love to see that ! I just removed rear tire on my triumph Bonneville at home with tools and tire stand minimum time 2 hrs. so on the trail or side of a roadway, yeah right.
5200, 3M, commonly referred to as 52Million.... lemme tell you, those rims are now f'd. You'll never get it off easily. I've seen thru-hull transducers come out shaped like a pretzel having been sealed with 52Million.... yeah, those rims are now 1-time use only. Good luck.
2 years in since the sealant went on and they are just fine - holding air perfectly with no issues. Continued safe riding to you !
@@thebritonabike I, too, wish ya many safe and enjoyable miles. But I think you missed the point. 52million is really not easily removable. The label states, "Adhesive Sealant"... no lies in that, it certainly is an adhesive. And, whatever ya do, don't use Central Wheel to do your wheels... they f'd up my rear spokes on a T-Bird Sport..... that's another story though.
@@N269 No understand and I get that you have had a bad experience - but I wanted the sealant /adhesive to be permanent - if the wheel / rim gets bent then a new rim will be on order - adjusting spokes hasn't been a big deal as the inner rim spoke heads are sealed and held tight with the sealant over them. If my tire choices ever don't seal properly and require a tube again that that also is a non - issue as you simply remove the valve stem and add (go back to) a tube in your rim/tires. To me it''s a win win. And I've had NO issues - but buyer beware - caveat emptor - sometimes things go wrong. This has been done by thousands of motorcyclists all over the world for years now so it's not exactly a new hack or some newly exposed secret. I wish you safe riding and thanx for the comments. Cheers !
@@thebritonabike Cool. Just as long as you didn't get Central Wheels dicks to do your wheels.... they have no respect for care. (spokes scratched and gouged).... no care at all.
👏🏻💫👏🏻
Glad you liked the video - please continue to ride safely !
"Hours and hours of work", really? Not my experience.
If your spokes never loosen you aint riding hard enough
When you tighten loose spokes the threaded portion of the spoke extends outwards or away from where they attach to the inner rim. By making the rim tubeless you can still tighten loose spokes the usual way. ONLY if a bent or broken spoke needs replacement would you have to push the damaged one through the sealant and replace. Then all you'd need to do is add a blob of sealant over the repair area. Continued safe riding to you !
If this was such a good idea bike manufacturers would do it. BMW spent fortunes on spoke wheels but they didn't do this because it's dangerous.
It's Absolutely NOT dangerous. It's simply an effective MOD that allows U 2 plug a tire rather than remove it and fix a leak in an inner tube. It's also removable if you need to repair or replace a spoke. Its' NO different to riding on NON spoked wheels. - Thanx for watching - stay safe out there on 2 wheels.
You are using a marine sealant to seal spokes. Says it all really. I'm sure this method is endorsed by the bike industry.
You say this method is absolutely safe, if so I would love to see what you base this on. It's Russian roulette, absolutely safe until .......!
The 3M sealant is PERMANENT, flexible, bonds to everything and the absolute best thing to use for this application. Anyways - No worries - let's just agree to disagree. These kind of mods are very common, and there are hundreds of other RUclips videos where owners have done exactly the same thing to there wheels successfully - hopefully with no ill effect. If you are careful, thorough and accept the risk - as with most motorcycle riding nothing is 100% safe. All I have is my own experience of 43 years of motorcycle riding, owning almost 50 different motorcycles and riding 500k accident free miles. I've never been a fan of inner tubes, and repairing a motorcycle inner tube out on the road is a HUGE pain in the AS# ...... anyways thanx for watching ! Stay safe out there on 2 wheels. All the best.@@stephenparker6288
well stated@@thebritonabike
I’m doing it on my next tire change.
N'importe quoi.....car les jantes pour tubeless sont prévues avec des bords....des gorges pour bloquer le pneu tubeless....ce qui n'est pas le cas de jantes normales.....👎👌😤
Donc astuce obsolète et non concrète ...car là un pneu dégonflé peut tourner.....👎👌❗
La plupart des roues de moto modernes sont toutes équipées de jantes avec un talon intérieur et des rainures ainsi qu'une lèvre de sécurité pour empêcher le pneu de rouler. Moto Guzzi incluse. Mais s'il n'y a pas de talon intérieur de jante, les pneus tubeless ne sont pas recommandés. Merci pour vos commentaires et je vous souhaite de continuer à rouler en toute sécurité !
I've had to replace damaged spokes several times. This isnt a good idea!
Better with properly deigned rims with spokes on outer part of rim.
I agree though tubes are yesterday's solution. All bikes should be tubeless by law now!
If you are finding that you need to do regular spoke adjustment then maybe this isn't for you - but you should be able to still make adjustments without the sealant being affected. You don't take of the tire for every spoke adjustment do you ? Stay safe and continued safe riding to you !
Do the psi recommend for the front and rear tires need change or it stay the same as the recommend by the manufacturer?
I always follow the manufactures recommended tire pressure - unless I am doing private practice in a parking lot where lower tire pressure will give more grip. Thanx for the feedback ! Continued safe riding to you!