A man that knows how to talk to people thank you sir . The best I ever seen hand down. Perfect job. I bed slot of gun you just made me better thanks. Sir
Plumber's Putty works great to fill any holed that you don't want bedding compound in. It also works great to form a dam and prevent bedding compound from seeping past the recoil lug.
Great bedding instruction and discussion. Long distance accuracy is all about the most consistency that you and your rifle can produce. Good bedding will achieve consistency. I'll have to check out that marine epoxy!
Outstanding work! Per your last video, the metal crown ring for a solid surface lockup on the Omega was genius. Thank-you for sharing your process on bedding. Took a lot from this video👍
I have another tip for you. Insted of just bedding a thin coat of compound under the tang of the action......take a 1/8 inch drill bit a add a few holes around the rear action screw hole so the bedding compound will have lugs that reach down into the stock at the rear tang. Also do not add tape to the sides of the recoil lug it....you need that side support. Great video BTW.
Using the action screws to hold the rifle together while bedding is asking for trouble. Epoxy can get on the threads and be forced into the action. Use long screws with the heads cut off to align the action with the floorplate and rubber bands to hold the action into the stock, this way there is no stress on the action. A few wraps of tape around the barrel close to the forend tip will keep the barrel central in the forend and support it as well.
Excellent rifle! That really is the ultimate hunting rig. One comment on the bedding job. I did not hear you talk about using clay or plumbers putty to fill in the trigger holes. If these are not filled the epoxy will flow into them and mechanically lock the action to the stock. When you break the barreled action from the stock often a chunk will be torn away at these locations. Ask me how I know:) Great build and love your channel. Keep up the great content. I too have my own shop and have been building rifles for years.
Strange, I didn't have that happen. Gordy does not fill the holes either- the plugs of epoxy will push right out with a punch if you use the right release agent :)
I use Johnson's paste wax...put it on all pertinent bedding/release areas...let dry...BUFF...and repeat...BUFF...Thinest layer of release agent creates the most accurate bedding....never had a problem with anything sticking....Thank you, Chet Brown....
A good release agent for the epoxy is a shoe polish, I usually use the "Kiwi Neutral". You put a layer on all the metal parts to protect, let it dry an hour and polish it with a piece of nylon stocking to remove all the excess. If you polish like this, you'll get a better fit between the action and the bedding.
Same here regarding Kiwi Neutral. I also have used plumbers putty to fill small holes, etc. in the action that I want to keep bedding out of. Also put painters tape on the front (toward the muzzle) side of the recoil lug so that you have a gap to allow the lug to slide in when you are doing assembly/disassembly later.
Hello beautiful video. Thank you I would like to ask you what you used to fill the empty space of the magazine and that of the trigger group. How much epoxy resin is needed, because in Italy there is only the 2 oz kit
That rifle has turned out very nice, great work Gavin! I really like the stock design and color pattern. It shoots too, that's a testament to your quality craftsmanship. I look forward to more, I always do. Thanks for sharing your work.
Gavin I'm currently bedding 6.5 prc. It appears that you left the threads created by the epoxy? Is that standard? I've always made it a point to drill the epoxy out of the screw holes after bedding? Thoughts?
Gavin, your "Secrets of the Bed" (X-Rated ;o) have lots of good tips. Pillar bedding is very important too. Browning does an excellent job of bedding their X-Bolt rifles like my 6.5 PRC X-Bolt Pro.
I have a 6.5 PRC in a Christensen arms MPR. The rifle loved the PH in 143 ELD-X. shot consistent .2 moa groups. I've since went to some hand loads. I shoot the berger 156 EOL with amazing results. I can accomplish the same groups with a little more velocity. The Furthest i've been able to shoot is 600 yards. Groups stayed under .5 MOA. You need to give that bullet a try with some N565 and some 210M primers...
My Hogue stock was flexing and touching the barrel along with gapping when loading the bipod causing groups to spread. I cinched the end of the stock to the barrel with tape and it went from shooting .1" groups to .4" groups. It's fun shooting 1 ragged hole at 100 yards.
I can understand using something like acetone to clean up the overflow as long as it doesn’t attack your stock finish, but I have never heard of using vinegar for this sort of work. I’m not sure I would want an acid to wick into any of the action joints. The rig looks awesome and I’m looking forward to the rest of the range reports.
@@Ultimatereloader I watch and subscribe for a long time. I'm a shooter and I like RUclips videos, but I'm still learning from this channel. Best regards, Sebastian
Approximately how much stock material do you want to remove. You only showed a small shot of the rear tang area, but what about the sides and front area just behind the recoil lug pocket?
I’ve been watching a lot about bedding lately and it seems like all the really good, old school dudes use marine tex because it doesn’t shrink. Although some like to seem one type of wax or another. I like the spray can approach though. I’m going to practice on an old mossberg 22lr because this stock for whatever reason had about 1% of finish left on it and I saved it had rust on action,barrel,trigger assembly but I seem to have saved it. Either way it should be fun to see if it actually improves the accuracy even though the barrel is most likely pretty shot out.
Everyone uses some type of fiberglass bedding , Acra glass or marine tex , etc . My question is this , why not belzonia? Liquid metal ? Just curious. I've seen steel flanges cut by steam fixed with this stuff and last years and years . Serious heat , steam hammer , expansion and contraction. I've always wondered, with not? I thought I've read somewhere why not but . Just curious.
Gavin I have a take off .308 barrel new unfired, 24 inch varment contour.. Can this be reamed to 6.5 PRC?? Looking utilize what I have, get a Remington 700 action, start from their love my RPR in 6.5, want to try something new. Been watching for many years thanks Jack.
Awesome job. Looks great. I wish you would do a video on cerakote. Because noone does a good one. And I know if you do it will be in detail like all you're videos. Hats off to you for great content
You mention a subsequent video about bedding the Leupold. I don't find it. I'd love to see it. I actually had Gordy bed a scope like that on my Steyr SSG "sniper" rifle. I'd like to actually see it done, or at least hear it explained in detail.
Can you please elaborate on reasons (to/to not) bed forward of the recoil lug? I have several stocks from HS Precision and one from McMillan that have a huge void in front of the recoil lug, conversely I built a similar gun to the gun in this build, 6.5 PRC, Proof Research barrel, built of a Tikka action I had laying around, ordered a McMillan stock and of course because of the Tikka recoil lug set up, there is zero play.... and the gun shoots great BTW! So now I’m considering bedding in the recoil lugs in my other rifles unless there’s a reason I shouldn’t??
There’s really not a need to bed in front of the lug unless you have a super heavy barrel and a light action receiver. If you have a strong modern action like a Tikka, R700/clone, etc. it’s just a little extra work. Some barrels also need a front pressure point at the fore end of the stock rather than being fully floating in some extreme cases. Basically, if it’s working adequately, don’t screw with it.
Gavin, kind of skipping around when I found your channel so was looking at 6.5 PRC build first and then went looking for the rest of your vids. I want to know what you think of taking Gordy's class and only being able to ask questions and take notes. Do you think it would be better if you could do the hands-on while in the class. I have taken a couple of NRA classes at Lassen and a Precision Rifle Build at Trinidad. I prefer being able to get my hands on the equipment and have an instructor checking and looking over my shoulder occasionally to make sure all the steps are being done and in the correct sequence. Down side of both places was my equipment was much nicer then what they had and in better condition. I have the 1340 GT PM. Matt is the bomb when needing help or getting questions asked.
I need to continue to read and study. I didn’t see the advantages of epoxy over glass. The Brownells kits for glass bedding have been readily available for … decades. Since so many benchrest competitors and custom rifle builders are using epoxy, it would be easy enough to just assume that it is the better way to go, but I always like to know why in order to avoid problems if possible before I ever begin. It looks like the process is very similar if not almost exactly the same.
Did you happen to read the article? I'm sure I'll be covering bedding from 50 different "angles" over the years and will highlight something different each time. I'm sure I'll do a more in-depth process video at some point.
Great job on the bedding. I have a Sauer 6.5 prc which has a rather unique action to stock fit. Have you ever bedded one of those rifles? Would be great to see someone who is knowlegable do a bedding job on one of those rifles. Keep up the good worrks.
The quality of the bedding shows in how the rifle shoots nice work. I've bedded a few rifles now and I like the tips you talked about. The one about tightening the rear screw and then the front and checking for barrel movement sounds like a good check. Also I didn't know you could use one shot as a release agent and I'll have to check the clearance of the barrel channel on one of my rifles now. Did that stock have aluminum pillers in it?
If you took a budget rifle and gave it upgrades and made comparisons that would be cool. Like a savage or Remington and upgrade chassis, trigger, budget barrel vs match, savage barrel nut system vs traditional. Budget driven for the average shooter and viewer
@@Ultimatereloader Hi Gavin, on the budget rifle idea, I would love for you to go back and finish the howa build and let us know how the new barrel went. Possible even rechamber after learning from Gordy.
@@Ultimatereloader specifically looking at the criterion barrels or x caliber with their remage/savage barrel designs. I think these are great ways to do barrel swaps but not alot of info out there
Awesome job Gavin. If you ever get a chance try Devcon for bedding, works extremely well and is not liquidy so a little less cleanup with just rubbing alcohol. One question, what do you do if you do have a stressed bedded action? Again awesome job on the rifle love Piece actions they are the best on the market.
I forgot to explain why you want the side support of the recoli lug......when the bullet travels down the barrel it twists the barreled action and the only thing supporting this tourq is the screws......so adding recoil side support is good.
I wish someone could explain the idea of "bedding" to me. If free floating is a good idea for barrels, then why not "free float" actions? Why not have the action attached to the stock only on 2 or 3 nice steel pillars, with well torqued bolts through the stock -- while the actual stock doesn't touch the action at any other points (as the barrel doesn't touch the stock)?? EDIT: I think of an AR-15, many of which are capable of shooting 0.5 MOA. There essentially IS no "stock." Well, indeed, the stock is attached by a thin tube of steel which is NOT tightly screwed into aluminum -- and which could be subject to all sorts of misaligned stresses and tensions when shouldered -- yet, that minimal "stock" attachment doesn't seem to matter much. I'm aware that rifles which shoot poorly can be improved with good bedding, but still, I wonder whether someone could PROVE to me that NO BEDDING would be a bad thing.
As he said in the video the idea is to have no stress on the action when you apply some torque on the action screws. If the action is bent because the stock does not fit perfectly, you will get inconsistent barrel harmonics (-> inconsistent point of impact). I dont know for the AR-15s, but the most accurate benchrest rifles actions are glued on the stocks (no stress or movement between the action and the stock). Some people have tried to make rifles with "free floating" action where the middle of the barrel is clamped on the stock... But since you need to touch the trigger to shoot, the action is not totally free floating, nothing is perfect ! If the semi autos are a bit less accurate than bolt action sniper rifles, that's also because you cant make the reloaded ammo fit perfectly the chamber without safety issues.
@@blacksand9805 The problem I have with that argument is that all the stresses you mention (like touching the trigger) are STILL stresses whether or not the action is bedded. I'll add that, if bedding is good for the action then it should be good for the barrel, too. Now, there ARE people who say that's in fact true, and there are arguments I've heard that a firm physical hold on the stock fore-end can give better accuracy than the typical sandbag + left had touching the stock butt that many bench rest shooters use BECAUSE such contact can damp down vibration. Well, it's still one or the other, free-floating vs damping down, and I've heard no good argument which shouldn't apply equally to BOTH the stock and the action...
Getmethere... you make same part valid points, and this type of bedding is not the ONLY way to attach an action to the stock. Pillars in timber and glass stocks are the two connection points at the action screws, and the epoxy bedding assists in ensuring stress free alignmnet of the action, those pillars and the stock, and assists in ensuring vibration is transferrd consistently from action through stock. Read up on action bedding blocks. Many target rifles use this system (often combined with epoxy bedding). There are many alloy stock such as chasis stocks that attach direct to preciselsy machined bedding blocks, but can be often improved by epoxy bedding. Also, yes you can free float the entire action... dont laugh, but using barrel blocks you attach the barrel to the stock and free float the action. Typically requires straight (no taper) stiff barrels and is used in many benchrest guns. What gavin is showing here is the most appropriate method for most rifles from hunting through to target rifles. It has been tested and proven by the best gunsmiths and shooters from various shooting disciplines. If it wasnt proven to work, it wouldnt be used.
@@Target71 Well, so you agree then. But you say that for the "typical" rifle configuration, bedding with a typical stock works best. Makes sense. I was also aware of the new "tactical" style of precision rifles, in aluminum chassis with no apparent bedding material.
@@GetMeThere1 not sure about what you are trying to achieve in your comments, more information, or validation of your ideas. Yes, bedding blocks are like you describe with minimal points of contact (google barnard or RPA bedding blocks) but they have to be precisely machined to match a precisely machined target action otherwise they impart uneven pressures and potentially twisting/bending of the action. And then alot of people still skim bed those actions into the bedding blocks. V Blocks for Remingtons are not as popular as the machining tolerances are not close enough on mass produced rem 700 actions, and the action still need to be bedded anyway to ensure a precise fit.
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How do you order that stock?
I wish you could have showed more of the actual work being done than just talking about it. That would have made an even better instructional video.
Tip* * i use deep sockets wrapped in sandpaper to smooth out the barrel channel . They come in lots of sizes and are easy to hold...
A man that knows how to talk to people thank you sir . The best I ever seen hand down. Perfect job. I bed slot of gun you just made me better thanks. Sir
Plumber's Putty works great to fill any holed that you don't want bedding compound in. It also works great to form a dam and prevent bedding compound from seeping past the recoil lug.
Gonna try bedding for first time and I definitely learned from you! I wish I could see more of your process
Getting ready to do my first bedding job. This is a useful video. Hope mine turns out well.
Good luck!
Finally. The best and least long winded "how to" I've seen on this topic
Another indicator of a good bedding job is that both action screws should hit the torque limit immediately. Nice rifle!
Great bedding instruction and discussion. Long distance accuracy is all about the most consistency that you and your rifle can produce. Good bedding will achieve consistency. I'll have to check out that marine epoxy!
I would really be interested in continuing this series with seeing how you work into some custom reloaded ammo, and the results.
The thing I never thought about was loosening the torque on the action screws. That makes a lot of sense.
Outstanding work! Per your last video, the metal crown ring for a solid surface lockup on the Omega was genius. Thank-you for sharing your process on bedding. Took a lot from this video👍
Thanks Kenny- looking forward to hanging out at SHOT :)
I have another tip for you. Insted of just bedding a thin coat of compound under the tang of the action......take a 1/8 inch drill bit a add a few holes around the rear action screw hole so the bedding compound will have lugs that reach down into the stock at the rear tang. Also do not add tape to the sides of the recoil lug it....you need that side support. Great video BTW.
I love that stock. I’ve tried finding it but cannot. Can you provide more information regarding the stock?
Using the action screws to hold the rifle together while bedding is asking for trouble. Epoxy can get on the threads and be forced into the action. Use long screws with the heads cut off to align the action with the floorplate and rubber bands to hold the action into the stock, this way there is no stress on the action. A few wraps of tape around the barrel close to the forend tip will keep the barrel central in the forend and support it as well.
Excellent rifle! That really is the ultimate hunting rig. One comment on the bedding job. I did not hear you talk about using clay or plumbers putty to fill in the trigger holes. If these are not filled the epoxy will flow into them and mechanically lock the action to the stock. When you break the barreled action from the stock often a chunk will be torn away at these locations. Ask me how I know:) Great build and love your channel. Keep up the great content. I too have my own shop and have been building rifles for years.
Strange, I didn't have that happen. Gordy does not fill the holes either- the plugs of epoxy will push right out with a punch if you use the right release agent :)
I use Johnson's paste wax...put it on all pertinent bedding/release areas...let dry...BUFF...and repeat...BUFF...Thinest layer of release agent creates the most accurate bedding....never had a problem with anything sticking....Thank you, Chet Brown....
A good release agent for the epoxy is a shoe polish, I usually use the "Kiwi Neutral". You put a layer on all the metal parts to protect, let it dry an hour and polish it with a piece of nylon stocking to remove all the excess. If you polish like this, you'll get a better fit between the action and the bedding.
Same here regarding Kiwi Neutral. I also have used plumbers putty to fill small holes, etc. in the action that I want to keep bedding out of. Also put painters tape on the front (toward the muzzle) side of the recoil lug so that you have a gap to allow the lug to slide in when you are doing assembly/disassembly later.
You can get a giant jar of release wax for less money per unit.
Hello beautiful video. Thank you
I would like to ask you what you used to fill the empty space of the magazine and that of the trigger group.
How much epoxy resin is needed, because in Italy there is only the 2 oz kit
That rifle has turned out very nice, great work Gavin! I really like the stock design and color pattern. It shoots too, that's a testament to your quality craftsmanship. I look forward to more, I always do. Thanks for sharing your work.
Absolutey love my 6.5 prc!! My crono says im pushing factory 143 eld-x at 3030 fps! Thanks for the bedding tutorial
Gavin I'm currently bedding 6.5 prc. It appears that you left the threads created by the epoxy? Is that standard? I've always made it a point to drill the epoxy out of the screw holes after bedding? Thoughts?
That is turning out to be an *awesome* rifle.
Thanks Troy!
Gavin, your "Secrets of the Bed" (X-Rated ;o) have lots of good tips. Pillar bedding is very important too.
Browning does an excellent job of bedding their X-Bolt rifles like my 6.5 PRC X-Bolt Pro.
I have a 6.5 PRC in a Christensen arms MPR. The rifle loved the PH in 143 ELD-X. shot consistent .2 moa groups. I've since went to some hand loads. I shoot the berger 156 EOL with amazing results. I can accomplish the same groups with a little more velocity. The Furthest i've been able to shoot is 600 yards. Groups stayed under .5 MOA. You need to give that bullet a try with some N565 and some 210M primers...
My Hogue stock was flexing and touching the barrel along with gapping when loading the bipod causing groups to spread. I cinched the end of the stock to the barrel with tape and it went from shooting .1" groups to .4" groups. It's fun shooting 1 ragged hole at 100 yards.
Excellent video, wich is tje optimal thick for the compound?
Outstanding channel and content!
I can understand using something like acetone to clean up the overflow as long as it doesn’t attack your stock finish, but I have never heard of using vinegar for this sort of work. I’m not sure I would want an acid to wick into any of the action joints. The rig looks awesome and I’m looking forward to the rest of the range reports.
Thank you for this movie, i want to do it on my rifle, and now I know how to do it. Greetings from Poland, Sebastian.
Thanks, and thanks for watching from Poland, welcome!
@@Ultimatereloader I watch and subscribe for a long time. I'm a shooter and I like RUclips videos, but I'm still learning from this channel. Best regards, Sebastian
Excellent presentation
Could you describe some of the reasons you might want to bed in front of the recoil lug?
Approximately how much stock material do you want to remove. You only showed a small shot of the rear tang area, but what about the sides and front area just behind the recoil lug pocket?
Is it true that carbon barrels will always have an off shot in groups ?
I’ve been watching a lot about bedding lately and it seems like all the really good, old school dudes use marine tex because it doesn’t shrink. Although some like to seem one type of wax or another. I like the spray can approach though. I’m going to practice on an old mossberg 22lr because this stock for whatever reason had about 1% of finish left on it and I saved it had rust on action,barrel,trigger assembly but I seem to have saved it. Either way it should be fun to see if it actually improves the accuracy even though the barrel is most likely pretty shot out.
really enjoy all the videos you do outstanding work please keep them coming looking forward to the next one!!
Thanks for watching!
Marine-tex is great stuff I use it for many things including bedding. 👊😎🇺🇸
How do avoid getting bedding compound at the bottom of your action screw holes?
The bigger the gob the better the job!
Hahahahaha - so true! :)
@@Ultimatereloader 8
great video as always, but the one thing that all these videos don't specify is how much material to remove where being bedded.
Please do a video on pillow and glass bedding a Sako 75 and 85 thanks
Gavin is there any benefit in bedding a aluminum chassis like a MPA chassis trying to get the most accuracy out of it thanks
Everyone uses some type of fiberglass bedding , Acra glass or marine tex , etc . My question is this , why not belzonia? Liquid metal ? Just curious. I've seen steel flanges cut by steam fixed with this stuff and last years and years . Serious heat , steam hammer , expansion and contraction. I've always wondered, with not? I thought I've read somewhere why not but . Just curious.
Very good 👍. If you were building a traditional wood or laminate stock do you pillar and bed or just bed stock to action?
Gavin, those pinches are starting to look bigger and bigger😂 probably got at least a third of a can in that mouth. Lol great video as usual!
Good instructions, I learned some new tricks. Keep going!
Never heard of using Hornady One Shot.....I have a bunch of it so that's good to know if I run out of the other stuff in the middle of a project.
Very nice job
Very nice! I appreciate your sharing your experience and insight.
Extremely informative once again greetings from Australia
Thanks
Gavin I have a take off .308 barrel new unfired, 24 inch varment contour.. Can this be reamed to 6.5 PRC?? Looking utilize what I have, get a Remington 700 action, start from their love my RPR in 6.5, want to try something new. Been watching for many years thanks Jack.
The 6.5 and the .308 are two different calibers, not going to work for that set up. But the .308 could be built into a very good rifle.
Great precision!
Awesome job. Looks great. I wish you would do a video on cerakote. Because noone does a good one. And I know if you do it will be in detail like all you're videos. Hats off to you for great content
How come you didn’t go over plugging all the holes with molding clay?
You mention a subsequent video about bedding the Leupold. I don't find it. I'd love to see it. I actually had Gordy bed a scope like that on my Steyr SSG "sniper" rifle. I'd like to actually see it done, or at least hear it explained in detail.
Did you put tape on the recoil lug for bedding?
Do you make barrels for anybody or just yourself
Can you please elaborate on reasons (to/to not) bed forward of the recoil lug? I have several stocks from HS Precision and one from McMillan that have a huge void in front of the recoil lug, conversely I built a similar gun to the gun in this build, 6.5 PRC, Proof Research barrel, built of a Tikka action I had laying around, ordered a McMillan stock and of course because of the Tikka recoil lug set up, there is zero play.... and the gun shoots great BTW! So now I’m considering bedding in the recoil lugs in my other rifles unless there’s a reason I shouldn’t??
There’s really not a need to bed in front of the lug unless you have a super heavy barrel and a light action receiver. If you have a strong modern action like a Tikka, R700/clone, etc. it’s just a little extra work. Some barrels also need a front pressure point at the fore end of the stock rather than being fully floating in some extreme cases. Basically, if it’s working adequately, don’t screw with it.
Great job!
Gavin, kind of skipping around when I found your channel so was looking at 6.5 PRC build first and then went looking for the rest of your vids. I want to know what you think of taking Gordy's class and only being able to ask questions and take notes. Do you think it would be better if you could do the hands-on while in the class. I have taken a couple of NRA classes at Lassen and a Precision Rifle Build at Trinidad. I prefer being able to get my hands on the equipment and have an instructor checking and looking over my shoulder occasionally to make sure all the steps are being done and in the correct sequence. Down side of both places was my equipment was much nicer then what they had and in better condition. I have the 1340 GT PM. Matt is the bomb when needing help or getting questions asked.
Where is the Part 4 to the 6.5 PRC build that you mentioned in the video? Am I overlooking it?
I need to continue to read and study. I didn’t see the advantages of epoxy over glass. The Brownells kits for glass bedding have been readily available for … decades. Since so many benchrest competitors and custom rifle builders are using epoxy, it would be easy enough to just assume that it is the better way to go, but I always like to know why in order to avoid problems if possible before I ever begin. It looks like the process is very similar if not almost exactly the same.
Why not use modeling clay in the recesses of the receiver?
Really wish you would do a complete video on bedding a stock. This one was quite vague. Nice rifle though Gavin!
Did you happen to read the article? I'm sure I'll be covering bedding from 50 different "angles" over the years and will highlight something different each time. I'm sure I'll do a more in-depth process video at some point.
@@Ultimatereloader I did not read the article. Thanks for the update!
The Gav deer slayer rifle, will they be available at Walmart soon?
I don't think Walmart shoppers would want to pay that much! :) :)
Great job on the bedding. I have a Sauer 6.5 prc which has a rather unique action to stock fit. Have you ever bedded one of those rifles? Would be great to see someone who is knowlegable do a bedding job on one of those rifles. Keep up the good worrks.
Interesting to see how u bed the bottom of the scope rings.
Anyone know where to get a model 7 bottom metal? Not a bottom metal designed for detachable magazines.
The quality of the bedding shows in how the rifle shoots nice work. I've bedded a few rifles now and I like the tips you talked about. The one about tightening the rear screw and then the front and checking for barrel movement sounds like a good check. Also I didn't know you could use one shot as a release agent and I'll have to check the clearance of the barrel channel on one of my rifles now. Did that stock have aluminum pillers in it?
Thanks, yes, aluminum pillars integrated into stock from the factory :)
@@Ultimatereloader I thought so.
Great vid ty
If you took a budget rifle and gave it upgrades and made comparisons that would be cool. Like a savage or Remington and upgrade chassis, trigger, budget barrel vs match, savage barrel nut system vs traditional. Budget driven for the average shooter and viewer
Yes! GREAT content idea!
@@Ultimatereloader Hi Gavin, on the budget rifle idea, I would love for you to go back and finish the howa build and let us know how the new barrel went. Possible even rechamber after learning from Gordy.
I did finish it! Shoots great, video coming after SHOT show, until then, check this out: facebook.com/UltimateReloader/posts/3108641189164800
And I did re-chamber (new barrel blank from International Barrels)
@@Ultimatereloader specifically looking at the criterion barrels or x caliber with their remage/savage barrel designs. I think these are great ways to do barrel swaps but not alot of info out there
so in order to shoot the 6.5 prc round, you should have a short action rifle?
Short action is optimal for weight and bolt throw, but you can build one with a long action.
gavintoobe would it be worth going out and getting 6.5 prc rifle or would a 7mm rem mag perform the same
Awesome job Gavin. If you ever get a chance try Devcon for bedding, works extremely well and is not liquidy so a little less cleanup with just rubbing alcohol. One question, what do you do if you do have a stressed bedded action? Again awesome job on the rifle love Piece actions they are the best on the market.
I forgot to explain why you want the side support of the recoli lug......when the bullet travels down the barrel it twists the barreled action and the only thing supporting this tourq is the screws......so adding recoil side support is good.
Where is the luepold mark 5 video?
Great build. What distance at range?
My break-in was at 100y
Very cool! Thank you
I wish think this load is a good light weight low recoil caliber.
Shoe polish usually goes on too thick. Never had a good bedding job with it as a release agent.
I wish that you had tested it before the bedding job just to see the difference.
I don't use the screws, I use clamps
This is a short action - Confirmed with Peirce Engineering on the phone.
LOL Cavedewller 1959 has been use one shot on his rifles for years.
I wish someone could explain the idea of "bedding" to me. If free floating is a good idea for barrels, then why not "free float" actions? Why not have the action attached to the stock only on 2 or 3 nice steel pillars, with well torqued bolts through the stock -- while the actual stock doesn't touch the action at any other points (as the barrel doesn't touch the stock)??
EDIT: I think of an AR-15, many of which are capable of shooting 0.5 MOA. There essentially IS no "stock." Well, indeed, the stock is attached by a thin tube of steel which is NOT tightly screwed into aluminum -- and which could be subject to all sorts of misaligned stresses and tensions when shouldered -- yet, that minimal "stock" attachment doesn't seem to matter much. I'm aware that rifles which shoot poorly can be improved with good bedding, but still, I wonder whether someone could PROVE to me that NO BEDDING would be a bad thing.
As he said in the video the idea is to have no stress on the action when you apply some torque on the action screws. If the action is bent because the stock does not fit perfectly, you will get inconsistent barrel harmonics (-> inconsistent point of impact). I dont know for the AR-15s, but the most accurate benchrest rifles actions are glued on the stocks (no stress or movement between the action and the stock). Some people have tried to make rifles with "free floating" action where the middle of the barrel is clamped on the stock... But since you need to touch the trigger to shoot, the action is not totally free floating, nothing is perfect ! If the semi autos are a bit less accurate than bolt action sniper rifles, that's also because you cant make the reloaded ammo fit perfectly the chamber without safety issues.
@@blacksand9805 The problem I have with that argument is that all the stresses you mention (like touching the trigger) are STILL stresses whether or not the action is bedded. I'll add that, if bedding is good for the action then it should be good for the barrel, too. Now, there ARE people who say that's in fact true, and there are arguments I've heard that a firm physical hold on the stock fore-end can give better accuracy than the typical sandbag + left had touching the stock butt that many bench rest shooters use BECAUSE such contact can damp down vibration. Well, it's still one or the other, free-floating vs damping down, and I've heard no good argument which shouldn't apply equally to BOTH the stock and the action...
Getmethere... you make same part valid points, and this type of bedding is not the ONLY way to attach an action to the stock. Pillars in timber and glass stocks are the two connection points at the action screws, and the epoxy bedding assists in ensuring stress free alignmnet of the action, those pillars and the stock, and assists in ensuring vibration is transferrd consistently from action through stock. Read up on action bedding blocks. Many target rifles use this system (often combined with epoxy bedding). There are many alloy stock such as chasis stocks that attach direct to preciselsy machined bedding blocks, but can be often improved by epoxy bedding. Also, yes you can free float the entire action... dont laugh, but using barrel blocks you attach the barrel to the stock and free float the action. Typically requires straight (no taper) stiff barrels and is used in many benchrest guns.
What gavin is showing here is the most appropriate method for most rifles from hunting through to target rifles. It has been tested and proven by the best gunsmiths and shooters from various shooting disciplines. If it wasnt proven to work, it wouldnt be used.
@@Target71 Well, so you agree then. But you say that for the "typical" rifle configuration, bedding with a typical stock works best. Makes sense. I was also aware of the new "tactical" style of precision rifles, in aluminum chassis with no apparent bedding material.
@@GetMeThere1 not sure about what you are trying to achieve in your comments, more information, or validation of your ideas. Yes, bedding blocks are like you describe with minimal points of contact (google barnard or RPA bedding blocks) but they have to be precisely machined to match a precisely machined target action otherwise they impart uneven pressures and potentially twisting/bending of the action. And then alot of people still skim bed those actions into the bedding blocks. V Blocks for Remingtons are not as popular as the machining tolerances are not close enough on mass produced rem 700 actions, and the action still need to be bedded anyway to ensure a precise fit.
Stop calling your PRS match rifle a light weight hunting rifle it’s NOT
Frank Moncada 11 pounds (without ammo) “lightweight” hunting rifle lol. My definition of a lightweight hunting rifle is 7 pounds in the field.
I agree with Tyler my Christensen arms ridgeline 6.5 prc whit a Leupold LRP 6.5-20x50 weighs 7 pounds 7 ounces
You live to damn far from me.