Thanks! I appreciate it. The AFR gauge is nice to get an immediate read if something is wrong. I’ve had a leaky pump nozzle once and could see the change off the line in the gauge.
Hey Smackey thanks for the lesson on how to set those screws. Cool ideal to use the vacuum gauge to man. Thanks a lot, i look forward to watching you change out the jets next..
I followed your video step my step. I found the highest vacuum I could and the AFR is at around 13-14. I’m noticing deceleration popping now and not sure if I should be worried about it
Typically deceleration popping is from too rich of a mixture burning off in the exhaust. When you changed the idle mixture screws, did you end up richening or leaning the car out more to get to the highest vacuum?
I've been thinking about the A/F Gauge as an addition to what I have in the car. Where do you have your plugged in? Meaning, is it on one bank of the engine, our do you have it setup up so you're reading both banks?
It’s been very valuable in tuning the car. I have it on one bank of the car and making the assumption the other is running the same. It’s directly after my passenger side long tube. I thought about doing a dual oxygen sensor system, but figured this was a good starting point.
Thats awesome. I feel like there are a thousand issues that all classic car owners will run into eventually and you have a real gift for explaining things in a clear and concise manner.
No I do not. Brake booster shouldn’t be using any vacuum. You want a good representative vacuum at idle while the car is at typical operating conditions.
Yea you are right. It’ll warm up quicker just hanging around in the driveway idling. I wanted to give my neighbors a break from the noise and go for a cruise.
Cool. Let me know how it goes! I added a link to the one I used in the video description. It's from Innova. You can get it from Amazon, Summit, Jegs, or any auto parts store.
I'm no super mechanic and will never claim to be, but your vacuum is super low. Would it be a good idea to check your valve setting in hopes you could get some better vacuum reading.
Yea. There really isn’t much there for vacuum. Higher now (6) since I redid the carb and all vacuum lines. It’s an XE284H with around .600 lift. Runs really good but it’s probably a bit much for the street
I'm loving this car but what did you do with the 73 through 76 Maybe Monte Carlo with I think the supercharger on it you still got it I love that car my dad had one I would love to have the one you got
Great to see someone doing it right, plus having the AFR gauge is a life saver too. Great work as always!
Thanks! I appreciate it. The AFR gauge is nice to get an immediate read if something is wrong. I’ve had a leaky pump nozzle once and could see the change off the line in the gauge.
Hey Smackey thanks for the lesson on how to set those screws. Cool ideal to use the vacuum gauge to man. Thanks a lot, i look forward to watching you change out the jets next..
Thanks Robbie! It’s coming. I’m actually in the garage working on it now. Should be later this week or next weekend.
Cool tips! Great video👍🏻
Thanks Big Mike!
This is a lost art my friend. I can remember doing this on my last truck. Haven't done it since. Lol
Yea. Imagine telling a 16 year old that they need to tune their carb before they can drive their first car. Times have changed lol.
@@SmackeysGarage that would be a great test. Lol
A few years from now it’ll just be asking, is your car charged enough to go out?
@@SmackeysGarage that's so true.
I always set them up with the distributor vacuum advance can connected. So use a plastic T fitting.
So you set your base timing while having vacuum advance input?
@@SmackeysGarage John Milner is talking about setting mixture screws with vacuum advance connected. I agree.
@@65sohc It should be set as you are sitting in driving condition so should should. I don’t have vacuum advance on this distributor so I didn’t here.
Got a few of those Frieburger Gasoline Forever shirts and a hoodie myself.😎👍🏻
Awesome. I bought a few when he launched the Mach 1 shirts too!
@@SmackeysGarage I got the Camaro one. I've got a Pro Street 67 Camaro👍🏻
I followed your video step my step. I found the highest vacuum I could and the AFR is at around 13-14. I’m noticing deceleration popping now and not sure if I should be worried about it
Typically deceleration popping is from too rich of a mixture burning off in the exhaust. When you changed the idle mixture screws, did you end up richening or leaning the car out more to get to the highest vacuum?
Great video! Thanks for the tips!
You bet!
Great tips!👍
Thanks Mitch!
I've been thinking about the A/F Gauge as an addition to what I have in the car. Where do you have your plugged in? Meaning, is it on one bank of the engine, our do you have it setup up so you're reading both banks?
It’s been very valuable in tuning the car. I have it on one bank of the car and making the assumption the other is running the same. It’s directly after my passenger side long tube.
I thought about doing a dual oxygen sensor system, but figured this was a good starting point.
good video!
Thanks Doug. I got the idea from one of your comments a few weeks back.
Thats awesome. I feel like there are a thousand issues that all classic car owners will run into eventually and you have a real gift for explaining things in a clear and concise manner.
Thanks! I appreciate it.
I’m running a 670 brawler on a 351 c it back fire through the carb on heavy acceleration any ideas
Timing off? Either base or advance? If it is backfiring, could be an intake valve still open or running too lean.
@@SmackeysGarage I’m running 10 base 34 total arf gauge around 14.8 to 13.0 it’s just tip in
Did you plug all the vacuum ports? Pcv, brake booster?
No I do not. Brake booster shouldn’t be using any vacuum. You want a good representative vacuum at idle while the car is at typical operating conditions.
@@SmackeysGarage thank you! Fighting a 770 avenger for a while. Have afr but I like vacuum adjustment more.
I've never seen a 4 corner idle carb end up at 1 1/2 turn out, they always end up at 3/4-1 out
Could require more fuel due to my combination. Very low vacuum and holes drilled in the butterflies to keep the transfer slots closed.
@@SmackeysGarage drilling the transfer slots help with idle adjustments cant seam to lower my idle thanks
Dont want to warm it up idling there? Itll warm up quicker without cold air rushing through it
Yea you are right. It’ll warm up quicker just hanging around in the driveway idling. I wanted to give my neighbors a break from the noise and go for a cruise.
Gr8 vid thanks
No problem 👍
I have a 600 Holley on a 351C in a 70 with a shaker so fun times. I'm gunna get that gauge first then tune mine.
Cool. Let me know how it goes! I added a link to the one I used in the video description. It's from Innova. You can get it from Amazon, Summit, Jegs, or any auto parts store.
I'm no super mechanic and will never claim to be, but your vacuum is super low. Would it be a good idea to check your valve setting in hopes you could get some better vacuum reading.
You are right and It’s the cam. I’d have to switch to another if I wanted to pull more vacuum.
4+ inches of vacuum at idle? You must have some hellacious cam.
Yea. There really isn’t much there for vacuum. Higher now (6) since I redid the carb and all vacuum lines. It’s an XE284H with around .600 lift. Runs really good but it’s probably a bit much for the street
I'm loving this car but what did you do with the 73 through 76 Maybe Monte Carlo with I think the supercharger on it you still got it I love that car my dad had one I would love to have the one you got
Thanks for the compliment on the car. I think you might have the wrong person though as I’ve never had a Monte Carlo.