Great, easy fix. You had me going with this fix so I checked my mill. 1. I moved my "fix" pin away from the belt and made sure that the WM pin was 1/8" away from the tightened belt, just like yours is now. Belt started to flop and bang just like before. 2. Put my "fix" pin back with about a 1/4" gap from the tightened belt. Flopping was reduced and there was no banging. 3. Compared the position of your pin @ 1/8" with my WM pin @ 1/8" and found that your pin looks closer to the sheave and at about the 7:30- 8:00 position whereas my pin is 1 1/8" away from the sheave and at about the 6:30 position. I'm thinking that this is why my mill bangs and your doesn't. 4. I moved my pin (the pin I made is closer to the mounting hole than the WM pin) to the WM pin location and the drive belt had a tendency to grab and move the blade at idle. NOT a good thing. It looks to me like my WM pin bracket needs to be a little shorter in order to put the pin in the same relative position to the engine sheave as your pin. One final thing......... when am I going to see some sawdust? Dave
There are a few bugs I’m working out on this unit. But I’ve been plowing through some stuff the past couple days. After watching your video the pins factory pins do look a little different. I suspect WM realized the issue and resolved it.
Keeping that contact adjusted and the sawdust off is key. It’s a bit of a headache but as someone who ran a manual mill 7 years before the hydraulics upgrade, I would rather deal with the copper strip 💪.
Mine still does it. This is a stupid way to disengage the belt. There should be a electric clutch. For the cost of these mill the pin lifter is not an acceptable method.
I am not a huge fan of the motor moving. Not sure why they deigned it that way but I assume they have a reason. Check out “the old man and the sawmill” he has a good solution.
The belt would actually slip to the extent that it started smoking the belt a couple times. Has not done it in several hours so I’m assuming that was all it was.
@@TheOldJarhead gentleman down the rd picked his up the same day. Had a very similar but apparently more serious issue. Took his back to have WM work it out.
For possible solution to the problem with LT 40 with 26.5 Hp engine check out this video: ruclips.net/video/vD7Snyq5ZLQ/видео.html
Great, easy fix. You had me going with this fix so I checked my mill.
1. I moved my "fix" pin away from the belt and made sure that the WM pin was 1/8" away from the tightened belt, just like yours is now. Belt started to flop and bang just like before.
2. Put my "fix" pin back with about a 1/4" gap from the tightened belt. Flopping was reduced and there was no banging.
3. Compared the position of your pin @ 1/8" with my WM pin @ 1/8" and found that your pin looks closer to the sheave and at about the 7:30- 8:00 position whereas my pin is 1 1/8" away from the sheave and at about the 6:30 position. I'm thinking that this is why my mill bangs and your doesn't.
4. I moved my pin (the pin I made is closer to the mounting hole than the WM pin) to the WM pin location and the drive belt had a tendency to grab and move the blade at idle. NOT a good thing.
It looks to me like my WM pin bracket needs to be a little shorter in order to put the pin in the same relative position to the engine sheave as your pin.
One final thing......... when am I going to see some sawdust?
Dave
There are a few bugs I’m working out on this unit. But I’ve been plowing through some stuff the past couple days.
After watching your video the pins factory pins do look a little different. I suspect WM realized the issue and resolved it.
@@DustyRanch I'm calling WM today to see if they have an upgraded pin assembly.
@@TheOldManAndTheSaw what did you find out?
@@DustyRanch I found out that WM doesn't have an upgraded fix for my issue; so I fixed it.
Solid fix man, atleast it wasn't anything like real bad... and man i can't wait to actually see this thing in person
It’s definitely a step up.
Timely. We are fighting a similar issue. Also the contact (copper strip) for operating the hydraulics has become pitted and makes operation a PITA.
Keeping that contact adjusted and the sawdust off is key. It’s a bit of a headache but as someone who ran a manual mill 7 years before the hydraulics upgrade, I would rather deal with the copper strip 💪.
Have you been in contact with Wood-Mizer?
They told me how to fix the issue.
Which engine do you have?
Mine still does it. This is a stupid way to disengage the belt. There should be a electric clutch. For the cost of these mill the pin lifter is not an acceptable method.
I am not a huge fan of the motor moving. Not sure why they deigned it that way but I assume they have a reason. Check out “the old man and the sawmill” he has a good solution.
What problem were you having? Just the knocking sound? Or was the belt slipping?
The belt would actually slip to the extent that it started smoking the belt a couple times. Has not done it in several hours so I’m assuming that was all it was.
@@DustyRanch wow. never had that happen
@@TheOldJarhead gentleman down the rd picked his up the same day. Had a very similar but apparently more serious issue. Took his back to have WM work it out.
@@DustyRanch Wow crazy! I am guessing it's the rush to get them out!
@@TheOldJarhead that’s my guess too and the lack of parts due to supply chain disruption.