Once again a video that provides useful information based on experience that we can benefit from. I appreciate you sharing. I get more practical knowledge from your videos than any others.
You just gave me a great degree of confidence to successfully align my blade guide and blade. I set mine down it on a can’t and knocked mine out of adjustment on my LT50. Just about broke my heart. Read the manual but no way as good as watching your video. Thanks for taking your time to describe some of the problems that you have experienced with the many years you have run Woodmizer’s. I am a hobbies user but I also like to keep my equipment in tip top shape. Tom Fruechtel
Hello Mr Jake, Very good vid My Friend. And I totally agree with you about keeping good sharp blades on a saw. Any Saw. I remember , back around 1989 when sawheads came out for feller bunchers , replacing shearheads that most loggers around where using back in that time. I ran my tree cutter many years and when my teeth got to where they weren’t as effective as I knew they be, I replaced them. And a lot of other smart loggers said I wasnt getting all I coukd out if them. Maybe Not. But by running it myself, while the other smarter loggers ride around in their new pickups saying they got everything out of their teeth. Cause thats what they told their hired hands to do. OK. Well a year or two into a machine, mine still looked and ran like a new one. Some of the machines running dull teeth had a lot of pin wear, hydraulics got weaker faster trying to capture recovery speed on the saw, making the hyd pumps work harder, and the list goes on about wear on a machine with dull teeth. That was a great point to make sure us viewers understand.
I think I need to adjust my blade guide arm after seeing this. Simple set on an LT40 is great unless you have it set for one inch and accidentally hit it mid way through a log. Thank you for going through all of these settings.
@@customsawyer2526 the manual I have goes into the details on how to make the adjustment. There is definitely something misaligned though because the head started shaking after my accidentally bumping the down head lever mid log with 1” drop setting. It threw the blade off the wheels when that event occurred but didn’t break… but now shakes even with new wheel belts, new blade, and also checked the drive belt setting. It was like a sewing machine before.
@@customsawyer2526 the blade guide arm is causing the shaking the best I can tell. I may have a loose adjustment wheel on the blade guide arm. I’m going to check the blade alignment and blade guide tomorrow.
You are an encyclopedia of information, even better you do the actual work in Realtime every day, there is no substitute for actual experience! Will different sources have to ask you if they can use your content for training materials? Maybe because it is out there in the public domain, they wouldn't have too but, I guarantee you are helping so many people shave so much time off their learning curve that you will end up deserving a degree of some type for it!
Once again a video that provides useful information based on experience that we can benefit from. I appreciate you sharing. I get more practical knowledge from your videos than any others.
Truly humbling
Dakota. I'm a Lucas guy, but I still enjoy your excellent videos.
I'll do a video on my Luca one day. Thanks for watching
As someone starting out you have Helped me A lot!!! I appreciate your content and experience. Thank You and keep up the good work!
Glad I could help.
well done Jake,
Thank you Sir
Great info Jake. Others will greatly benefit from your knowledge and experience. Well done Sir!!!
Thank you Sir
You just gave me a great degree of confidence to successfully align my blade guide and blade. I set mine down it on a can’t and knocked mine out of adjustment on my LT50. Just about broke my heart. Read the manual but no way as good as watching your video. Thanks for taking your time to describe some of the problems that you have experienced with the many years you have run Woodmizer’s. I am a hobbies user but I also like to keep my equipment in tip top shape.
Tom Fruechtel
Glad it is helpful.
Hello Mr Jake, Very good vid My Friend. And I totally agree with you about keeping good sharp blades on a saw. Any Saw. I remember , back around 1989 when sawheads came out for feller bunchers , replacing shearheads that most loggers around where using back in that time. I ran my tree cutter many years and when my teeth got to where they weren’t as effective as I knew they be, I replaced them. And a lot of other smart loggers said I wasnt getting all I coukd out if them. Maybe Not. But by running it myself, while the other smarter loggers ride around in their new pickups saying they got everything out of their teeth. Cause thats what they told their hired hands to do. OK. Well a year or two into a machine, mine still looked and ran like a new one. Some of the machines running dull teeth had a lot of pin wear, hydraulics got weaker faster trying to capture recovery speed on the saw, making the hyd pumps work harder, and the list goes on about wear on a machine with dull teeth. That was a great point to make sure us viewers understand.
It's a difficult thing for some to understand. Thanks.
Thanks for explaining the blade alignment
Keep the videos going please
Great information! Thanks. Sawing in Minnesota.
Super useful information!
You could lower the head so theres no gap on the square
Jake
I'm an old school carpenter
A wood rule works good for measuring with the blade tool.
Appreciate that tip. Might have to get one.
JUST WHAT I ASKED FOR THANK YOU SIR!
Hope it helps. If you have any questions please feel free to ask.
Great info! Thanks for making the video!
Yes Sir. Thanks for watching
I think I need to adjust my blade guide arm after seeing this. Simple set on an LT40 is great unless you have it set for one inch and accidentally hit it mid way through a log. Thank you for going through all of these settings.
Blade guide arm is a little different on a LT40. Still needs to be adjusted right for the lumber and timbers to come out right.
@@customsawyer2526 the manual I have goes into the details on how to make the adjustment. There is definitely something misaligned though because the head started shaking after my accidentally bumping the down head lever mid log with 1” drop setting. It threw the blade off the wheels when that event occurred but didn’t break… but now shakes even with new wheel belts, new blade, and also checked the drive belt setting. It was like a sewing machine before.
@@willmegehee What shakes? The blade guide arm when you grab it. The mill head?
@@customsawyer2526 the blade guide arm is causing the shaking the best I can tell. I may have a loose adjustment wheel on the blade guide arm. I’m going to check the blade alignment and blade guide tomorrow.
You are an encyclopedia of information, even better you do the actual work in Realtime every day, there is no substitute for actual experience! Will different sources have to ask you if they can use your content for training materials? Maybe because it is out there in the public domain, they wouldn't have too but, I guarantee you are helping so many people shave so much time off their learning curve that you will end up deserving a degree of some type for it!
I greatly appreciate the encouragement. Doing these videos doesn't speed up production. I just hope to help some out there.
Broke a blade recently. Tomorrow's job is now blade alignment check.
How many times has it been sharpened? Some breaks are just fatigue.
Blade needed adjusting down on both sides. Broken blade had been resharpened 4 times. Lt70 walk behind in New Zealand.
@@sphipps497 4 sharpens is more than I normally get.
Great video
Thanks
Thanks, video well done
Good info as usual.
Thanks
What blade profile do you cut?
These blades are WM 7/39 turbo 7. They are 1.5x.055x7/8"
I'm new with alt30 my blade brides I put a different blade and now it's sinking down it keeps going down
Sounds like the mill is out of alignment. Possibly set is wrong on the blade