The BEST Metal Roofing System - Roofing Foil + Standing Seam + Spray Foam Insulation
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- Опубликовано: 3 окт 2024
- www.RoofingFoi... If you're about to install a metal, tile or some type of slate roofing system that has a built-in air space, you have to install a radiant barrier! Installing radiant barrier RoofingFoil™ + Underlayment under your new tile or metal roof is almost like putting a giant tree over your home. Your home will have immediate energy savings, and be more comfortable year round. RoofingFoil™ + Underlayment is Miami-Dade County approved and Florida Building Code approved.
Watch this installation using our RoofingFoil™ + Underlayment product over a Zip System under a Standing Seam Metal Roof - the results are phenomenal on this perfect install.
Learn how to install RoofingFoil™ + Underlayment on our website: www.roofingfoi...
Shop RoofingFoil™ + Underlayment All-in-One: www.roofingfoi...
Putting 1x4 on an angle creates an opening at the top so the hot air can escape. Brilliant, it never occurred to me
Yes, great system for use with standing seam roofs. You can easily adjust the clips to put them anywhere the wood strips go. www.RoofingFoil.com
This system is what I want to use to Reroof my 23 year old single-wide Solitaire manufactured home some day. When I ordered the home in late 1999, they did not offer radiant barrier, but had far superior floor & wall systems built better than real house. I feel the heat from my ceiling & the AC doesn't quite keep up. Someday when my ship comes in.....
I just added foil over the weekend. And I find my AC is not running all the time. We live in the south end of the San Joaquin Valley about an hour north of Bakersfield. After lasts months electric bill for a single wide mobile home where electric ran just short of $400 dollars because Southern California Edison has twisted the arm of the Public Utilities Commission to double the cost for Kwh I have to do something.
Thanks for the comment! If the AC is running less, than the www.AtticFoil.com is definitely working. Can you help me out? Could you copy/paste this into a google review? It really helps! Ed. g.page/r/Cf4BwSi-NV0qEB0/review
It would be nice to see more on setting up the furring strips. What is the best size and how do you set up the angle. I have the foil down but net to set up the airspace.
Checking with the metal manufacturer is best. However, I'd say the "standard" is 1x4" about 18-24" apart. The heavier the gauge of the metal the further apart they can be when installing over www.RoofingFoil.com
I like the constructive comments on here. And I like the responses from the owner. I'm needing a new roof soon. I was going to go with white shingles but cannot get them locally. And I really don't want white to be honest. Too bright. White is available only in a 3 tab and I don't want 3 tab. I need strength in my shingles due to the almost constant strong winds in SW Oklahoma a lot of times. So I'm looking at architectural shingles. I'm looking at a light gray pattern but would not mind going very slightly colored pattern. But if put this radient barrier on the west facing roof first along with either a solar or electrical powered roof vent I'm confident I can choose a lightly colored roof which is what appeals to me more than a light gray roof. I'm trying to relieve the 6 degree higher temps in my 2 upstairs bedrooms during the hottest months of the summer. Spring, Fall, and Winter I have no issues with how my roof performs. The house is very comfortable during those seasons. Thanks for your instructional videos!
Thanks for the comments. Here is the deal. If you install www.AtticFoil.com in the attic and it's reflecting 97% of the radiant heat, honestly it really does not make a big difference in the roof color. A lighter color roof WILL be a little cooler than a med or dark roof and in theory it would radiant less heat. But, like I said, with aluminum reflecting 97% of SOME amount of heat the difference in the AMOUNT that gets through (3%) is almost impossible to measure. This is what's so great about installing a radiant barrier in your roofing system. You can choose what you want because the appearance has value too. Ed.
What is installed at the eave and ridge of each panel to prevent critter intrusion but still allow airflow?
Nothing needed. Too hot between the www.RoofingFoil.com and metal roof for any critters/bugs etc. to stay when sun is out.
Is there underlayment under the foil? The foil is perforated, so it wont protect the roof decking from moisture?
This is our all in one www.RoofingFoil.com underlayment. It's an underlayment AND vapor barrier all in one. And, it's Miami-Dade County approved. www.roofingfoil.com/shop/single-sided-solid-foil-underlayment/
I'm curious, why but 1X4 at angle and not straight up. Wouldn't straight up provide a better channel for air to flow?
Great question. The metal flexes left/right because of the ribs. If you run the wood battens up/down they would not support any weight between the wood battens. Running horizontal or at an angle provides sideways support so the metal has strength. The angle provides both great airflow and support for the metal. It's the trend now with may builders in the high performance construction market.
@@AtticFoil thank you for clarifying. I like the product and really appreciate the videos!
Is there condensation issue in winter time?
No. It's a ventilated space. If you do get a little condensation in there (which is normal) between the sun coming out and heating up the space because of the www.RoofingFoil.com and the ventilation, it will dry out quickly.
One mistake he built into that house: The black roof. People are still going with dark colors like we're living in Victorian England. The roof is your primary layer of defense against radiant heat, but people are still prioritizing centuries-old style over the laws of physics.
I went with the lightest shingles I could. I don't have a proper albedometer, but using a luminosity index on an aerial image of my house, my roof absorbs 22% of visible light. My neighbor has a dark gray roof that absorbs 63%, and the next house down with typical tan-to-red shingles absorbs 45%. (These are all side-by-side measurements from the same image, btw.) My house doesn't absorb as much radiant heat to begin with, but I have radiant barrier in the attic to push back what does, plus fans and soffit vents to discharge any heat that accumulates. Multi-pronged attack, but the surface of the roof is the first line of defense.
You are generally correct. But, the material makes the biggest impact. For example, on a hot sunny day, I'd rather sit on a piece of BLACK Styrofoam compared to a Reflective chrome bumper. With this system the color of the roof really does not matter anymore since we have virtually eliminated conductive heat and made it convert to radiant heat go jump the airspace. Then, we OWN it by reflecting 97%.