I am happy to see that you have also discovered the lever nuts for splicing electrical wires. I remember cringing at your past wiring videos, where you had to undo and redo the wire-nuts multiple times during the installation and testing phase. Especially as you added appliances to the circuit. I have found that the lever nut enhances my safety, especially down the road when I have to make a repair. For example: I changed the illumination in my office from a single fluorescent tube to multiple LED surface mount panels. I clipped a 5-slot lever nut to each lead of the electrical feed sticking out of the ceiling. Now I could connect up to four LED panels distributed on the ceiling. When, inevitably, a panel burned out, I could simply disconnect the lead of that particular panel without the risk of getting zapped by any exposed [live] wire.
Try putting a 14 AWG wire in that outlet instead of the 12 AWG (14 AWG would be run in a 15 amp circuit). I suspect the 14 might perform better on the pull test, since the outlet is designed for a 15 amp circuit and the wire grip would be optimized for the smaller diameter wire.
I have lived for most of my life in South America, where the electrical standard is 220/240 volts. For a standard domestic install you have two options: The small home with a single phase at a maximum of 32A, and the big home with three phases at 32A maximum each for a theoretical 100A combined. If you want or need more current than that, the price goes way up since you have to install a separate transformer on you own pole. And you have to pay for a way higher minimum monthly consumption, at a [often] higher price. A few other things that surprised me as different (neither better nor worse, just different): ==> Type of wiring: You seem to be using only monolithic (single strand) wires. We moved away from single strand to multi strand wiring about 40 years ago. The reason I have been told, is that multi-stranded wires (aka cables) are more efficient for the same diameter surface, since the electrons only move along the surface of a wire. So having multiple thinner wires gives you more conductive surface than a single wire with the same diameter (or cross-section) surface. That a cable is also more flexible than a wire is an additional benefit. A rule of thumb is that each square millimeter of cross-section is good for ~6A. ==> House wiring: You have been embedding your electrical wires directly into the walls and ceilings. We have to install conduit into the walls and ceilings for our house wiring. Even surface mounted wires have to be placed in conduits. Up to 40 years ago, electricians would string two wires (phase and neutral) from one end of the attic to the other. Then they would scrape of some insulation and wrap the lead for a light switch or an outlet around that main wire, and finally cover it all up with electrical tape. The wire leads for lights and outlets would then be poked through the ceiling and individually nailed to the wall. Good electricians will try to ensure that the conduits run either horizontal or vertical, and install junction boxes where conduits meet, branch or change direction. That makes it easier to run the cables initially, as well as add more circuits later on. And it also helps prevent accidental penetration by nails or screws by simply looking at the location of the outlet/junction boxes. (Also worth noting is the fact that more than 95% of all walls are masonry in some form.) ==> Wire (copper) consumption: I have noticed that for each circuit phase wire you also run a parallel neutral and grounding wire. And then you tie all neutral and all grounding wires respectively together inside your breaker panel. So, depending on the amount of circuits, you could have five, six or even more neutral and ground wires run in parallel (and redundant), thus wasting resources such as copper and money. With the conduits we run both the neutral and the ground wires like a ring around the house. The live (or phase) wire for each circuit comes from the breaker panel to the consumer and closes the loop nearby for the shortest wire run possible. So there are only very few neutral and ground wires coming into the breaker box. And to distinguish the different circuits we use the following color coding of the sheathing: green or green/yellow for ground, blue for neutral, and black, white, red and yellow for phase.
Lever and push-in has exactly the same wire holding principle. Only difference is that, to open the spring you have a lever, instead a hole to poke with screwdriver. They both have the same holding force (or they should). In Europe we use push-in style outlets for a very long time (at least 20 years, since I'm in electrican business). I have installed thousands, and non of them have failed. And if you compere them with Wago connectors, you know, Wago has also push-in series, not only 221 (lever type), and we use them everywhere in installations, because they are smaller than 221 series. Usually we use 221 series only if we need to connect different gauges of wire, or solid wires with stranded. (push in works only with solid wires).
those wagos are for flexible core copper we have been using in the Netherlands since the end of the 90s wagos the first socket is what we have been using for years
I enjoyed your video and am pleased to see you back. The wife and I are fulltime RVERS and I have been learning about Molex and Wago connections. Great technology. Thank you for the review
Given that people have and will change their own outlets using the former push in style and will do so with this new lever lock style, the fact that is so easy and such no-brainer tech it is going to be better in the long run. I'm not an electrician by any means and I hadn't seen these yet but this makes me somewhat excited about changing out bad outlets. The features of them locking together is a great idea as I have had to adjust other ones sometimes a couple times to get them right. Good video and glad to see you guys back. Hope we get to see some of Alyssa's gardening this year.
It's great to see US electrical manufacturers looking at making things safer. I think you would find UK outlets interesting, although I have not seen a lever nut built into an outlet over here.
My only question is why did the manufacturer of that neet new outlet put the ground on the same side as the hot wire? Don't all the other outlets have the ground on the same side as the neutral? Good to see you making videos again.
I'm fascinated at how some things are seen in the U.S. as this has been the standard how switches and sockets are wired up in most of Europe for at least 30 years, and that at 240VAC and with 16A. Thanks so much for your insights though, I've learned a lot of interesting things from watching your videos over the years.
15 amp rated outlets are allowed on a 20 amp circuit. There is an exception in Code which permits the common 15A receptacle on 20A circuits if there are two or more sockets on the circuit. (NEC 210.21B3). The common double receptacle is two sockets. Mirroring that, there is a UL requirement that all 15A receptacles must have an internal capacity of 20A - only the socket itself is 15A.
Jess, The lever outlets & switches are Leviton Decora Edge pieces. They are the only co making these so you will see the old style for quite a while yet. Maybe for 17 more years until Levitons patent runs out. !
Maybe the pull out test would have worked better with 14 AWG wire. I will have to buy a lever outlet and take it apart to see how it works. About color codes on wire for houses black is hot and in DC appliances black is ground and red is positive. This also works in cars and trucks. If you look at trailers or RVs black is hot and white is ground.
Another very informative video. I was not aware if the lever connection outlets. We have had the safety shutter on outlets in the UK for al least 40 years. The ground pin is longer and that is what opens the shutter. What opens the shutter on these outlets? Just having 2 pins trying to enter at the same time?
Finally! As a European I have always found the American electricity system very old school and insecure. We have been using all these "new technologies" for decades. Recently I destroyed a dry wall that my father had built over 35 years ago. I found Wago connections inside. Next step: the connection box that you can place where you want, without nails. :) ruclips.net/video/L9f8rdMRFmI/видео.html
A feature you didn't mention is that they have extra tall "ears". This is good for poorly cut in boxes. The extra height breaks away if you don't want/need it.
But in actually what is going to pull the wires out of the outlet if it is secure in the box? I feel that you would be pretty secure knowing that the wire is not going to fall out on its own.
I want to see these tested more. I also wish Leviton would have licensed/worked with Wago. The wire pulling out shakes my confidence in these overall. Great concept though.
Due to the amount of details you provided, I got more than what I have seen on this outlet and related videos. Very well explained. I had some interest on it and now I can really understand what is going on. I will do use it.
Think the biggest mistake I see is that us do it yourselfers don't rap the screws in tape to keep it from shorting out if someone touches by mistake. So lever nut outlet really eliminates that.
I wonder why the new style outlet the mfr put the ground wire on the same side as the hot... no outlets are like that except for this one as far as I know.
Good review, maybe you could get hold of some Australian electrical and compare. We ( Australia ) still need a screw driver but we only have one set of ports for the wires. I am guessing the second set of connections is for the daisy chain to run onto the next outlet. Interesting.
I’m a mechanic for a large fire rescue organization. Lever nuts have been in use on low voltage units for years. It interesting to see them moving on to ac voltage. Thanks for sharing I’m going to look for these at my local home stores.
The issue you have with the cable pulling out was due to you twisting the wire, if you build a rig with the outlet raised up install a wire and hang a weight on the wire and see how much weight it can take before either the wire fails or is pulled out
In most cases these would likely be ok but I wouldn't want to use them where a space heater or electric skillet, air fryer or toaster oven is used. Also wondering if they have made or plan to make a version with a GFCI built in for around sinks.
Most normal 15A outlets are rated for 20A circuits since there are 2x15A sockets. I wonder if they mean 15A max per socket or total for the receptacle.
So push is world wide the norm since 20+ years only America is slowly catching up to it. In Germany we run 230-240V AC over 14gauge wire to light switches and outlets which are majority push in connectors so no longer can you shock yourself when you touch them. So yes they are perfectly safe if you use the proper Equipment. Cupper wire !!!! Not CLAD ! No green is the ground in the world because everywhere else we use green and yellow with green wires as ground wire. Also in the rest of the world bare wire is a big no no.
I work with lots of qualified electricians from different backgrounds. Some electricians maybe a journey person but have different experience ( example: they only pull wire or build cable trays or only worked in a industrial setting).When looking for a qualified electrician ask questions about where they worked what they did. You don’t want to find out they didn’t have the right experience when the job goes sideways.
A quick, easy way for DIYers to get tamper resistant outlets swapped in before their little ones start putting forks in them. There are videos that confirm that lever nuts get hotter than screw wire nuts but still well within safe ranges. I'm curious to see how hot these get.
I am so glad you're checking these out. I am so surprised that these are affordable. I can't wait for the future of some of these fixtures now that these exsit.
You would think that they have been tested before they released them to the market. However after they are installed in the box, there shouldn’t be any pulling on the wires.
Since the WAGO nut is so much smaller, it is much harder to hold on to. I wonder if you are giving it more credit than it deserves. You should put it in a vice and do a pull test with a spring scale and do the same thing with your outlet and compare the results. I personally would love to know.
In Europe/NL we work with Wago wire connection for years!! As an electrician we value them very much. Stick to Wago. Everything else is a cheap rip off their tech. Outlets with Wago look a like tech?? Mwaaa, no go for me!!
Love the new ideas and for the DYI or a small job it works good, but for large jobs that are all about $$ it will be awhile before it becomes mainstream. Love the videos!
I've seen these outlets but haven't used them because most of my shop stuff is 20 amp outlets. These lever nuts are an interesting idea I wonder what their amperage rating is.
I recently did some electrical work in my 100 year old house, and when replacing a outlet I saw that one, but it looked gimmicky and shinsei. So I ended up going with the good old-fashioned style
Hella noo!! 1st you didn't address the 15A/20A difference between plug styles. Most wiring is either old & even if new ONLY 14awg. As a professional I wire only 12awg circuits and only put 20A outlets on 1st 2 outlets using mainly 15A breakers. I also only use screw terminator! NEVER quick terms, twist wires fully before wire nuts. The full reason is though most electric plug devices are low use, people plug vacuums and air conditioning equipment into said outlets then clueless contractors plug industrial 20A equipment into said circuits. As an engineer I DON'T TRUST IDIOTS! I run equipment from the circuit panel (usually 240V 2Xbreakers) the connectivity of quick terms can burn & cause fires ~ seen this too many times. This whole DIY I'm in agreement with but it's rare that folks understand just how dangerous this quick terms wiring is nor account for idiots whom think oh it's an outlet just plug it in. There's many a case of fires caused by air-conditioning equipment (be it strait plugged or extension corded) not to mention refrigerator/freezer ~ contractor equipment in under rated circuits. Again put a 20A outlet on a 15A circuit and that funny sideways bladed equipment fits will cause a fire because some circuit breakers fail to trip! Nobody uses an outlet tester to verify the wiring nor amp rating of!!! 😿
Развлечения
Good to see you back. What I would like to see is how you have been running the wiring in the upper floors.
I am happy to see that you have also discovered the lever nuts for splicing electrical wires. I remember cringing at your past wiring videos, where you had to undo and redo the wire-nuts multiple times during the installation and testing phase. Especially as you added appliances to the circuit.
I have found that the lever nut enhances my safety, especially down the road when I have to make a repair. For example: I changed the illumination in my office from a single fluorescent tube to multiple LED surface mount panels. I clipped a 5-slot lever nut to each lead of the electrical feed sticking out of the ceiling. Now I could connect up to four LED panels distributed on the ceiling. When, inevitably, a panel burned out, I could simply disconnect the lead of that particular panel without the risk of getting zapped by any exposed [live] wire.
Try putting a 14 AWG wire in that outlet instead of the 12 AWG (14 AWG would be run in a 15 amp circuit). I suspect the 14 might perform better on the pull test, since the outlet is designed for a 15 amp circuit and the wire grip would be optimized for the smaller diameter wire.
I have lived for most of my life in South America, where the electrical standard is 220/240 volts. For a standard domestic install you have two options: The small home with a single phase at a maximum of 32A, and the big home with three phases at 32A maximum each for a theoretical 100A combined. If you want or need more current than that, the price goes way up since you have to install a separate transformer on you own pole. And you have to pay for a way higher minimum monthly consumption, at a [often] higher price.
A few other things that surprised me as different (neither better nor worse, just different):
==> Type of wiring: You seem to be using only monolithic (single strand) wires. We moved away from single strand to multi strand wiring about 40 years ago. The reason I have been told, is that multi-stranded wires (aka cables) are more efficient for the same diameter surface, since the electrons only move along the surface of a wire. So having multiple thinner wires gives you more conductive surface than a single wire with the same diameter (or cross-section) surface. That a cable is also more flexible than a wire is an additional benefit.
A rule of thumb is that each square millimeter of cross-section is good for ~6A.
==> House wiring: You have been embedding your electrical wires directly into the walls and ceilings. We have to install conduit into the walls and ceilings for our house wiring. Even surface mounted wires have to be placed in conduits. Up to 40 years ago, electricians would string two wires (phase and neutral) from one end of the attic to the other. Then they would scrape of some insulation and wrap the lead for a light switch or an outlet around that main wire, and finally cover it all up with electrical tape. The wire leads for lights and outlets would then be poked through the ceiling and individually nailed to the wall.
Good electricians will try to ensure that the conduits run either horizontal or vertical, and install junction boxes where conduits meet, branch or change direction. That makes it easier to run the cables initially, as well as add more circuits later on. And it also helps prevent accidental penetration by nails or screws by simply looking at the location of the outlet/junction boxes. (Also worth noting is the fact that more than 95% of all walls are masonry in some form.)
==> Wire (copper) consumption: I have noticed that for each circuit phase wire you also run a parallel neutral and grounding wire. And then you tie all neutral and all grounding wires respectively together inside your breaker panel. So, depending on the amount of circuits, you could have five, six or even more neutral and ground wires run in parallel (and redundant), thus wasting resources such as copper and money.
With the conduits we run both the neutral and the ground wires like a ring around the house. The live (or phase) wire for each circuit comes from the breaker panel to the consumer and closes the loop nearby for the shortest wire run possible. So there are only very few neutral and ground wires coming into the breaker box.
And to distinguish the different circuits we use the following color coding of the sheathing: green or green/yellow for ground, blue for neutral, and black, white, red and yellow for phase.
Lever and push-in has exactly the same wire holding principle. Only difference is that, to open the spring you have a lever, instead a hole to poke with screwdriver. They both have the same holding force (or they should). In Europe we use push-in style outlets for a very long time (at least 20 years, since I'm in electrican business). I have installed thousands, and non of them have failed. And if you compere them with Wago connectors, you know, Wago has also push-in series, not only 221 (lever type), and we use them everywhere in installations, because they are smaller than 221 series. Usually we use 221 series only if we need to connect different gauges of wire, or solid wires with stranded. (push in works only with solid wires).
Good to see you guys back. Please leave comments open though. Without discussion videos lack a lot of substance. Just ignore trolls.
Glad your back missed you guys.
those wagos are for flexible core copper we have been using in the Netherlands since the end of the 90s wagos the first socket is what we have been using for years
I enjoyed your video and am pleased to see you back. The wife and I are fulltime RVERS and I have been learning about Molex and Wago connections. Great technology. Thank you for the review
Given that people have and will change their own outlets using the former push in style and will do so with this new lever lock style, the fact that is so easy and such no-brainer tech it is going to be better in the long run. I'm not an electrician by any means and I hadn't seen these yet but this makes me somewhat excited about changing out bad outlets. The features of them locking together is a great idea as I have had to adjust other ones sometimes a couple times to get them right.
Good video and glad to see you guys back. Hope we get to see some of Alyssa's gardening this year.
Seems to me if stripping wire to a correct length and hooking it on a screw is too complicated that you shouldn't be touching electrical.
It's great to see US electrical manufacturers looking at making things safer. I think you would find UK outlets interesting, although I have not seen a lever nut built into an outlet over here.
My only question is why did the manufacturer of that neet new outlet put the ground on the same side as the hot wire? Don't all the other outlets have the ground on the same side as the neutral?
Good to see you making videos again.
Thanks Jesse. Looks great! 👍😁
Putting this in "smart" outlets and switches that DIYers are likely to install I think would be a huge win
Did not know of these. looks like I have some new outlets to buy, Thanks
I'm fascinated at how some things are seen in the U.S. as this has been the standard how switches and sockets are wired up in most of Europe for at least 30 years, and that at 240VAC and with 16A. Thanks so much for your insights though, I've learned a lot of interesting things from watching your videos over the years.
The extra large flanges on the outlet would be nice.
I have really missed seeing you two... hope your back to stay!!!
Great idea!!!
15 amp rated outlets are allowed on a 20 amp circuit. There is an exception in Code which permits the common 15A receptacle on 20A circuits if there are two or more sockets on the circuit. (NEC 210.21B3). The common double receptacle is two sockets. Mirroring that, there is a UL requirement that all 15A receptacles must have an internal capacity of 20A - only the socket itself is 15A.
Jess,
The lever outlets & switches are Leviton Decora Edge pieces. They are the
only co making these so you will see the old style for quite a while yet.
Maybe for 17 more years until Levitons patent runs out.
!
Maybe the pull out test would have worked better with 14 AWG wire. I will have to buy a lever outlet and take it apart to see how it works.
About color codes on wire for houses black is hot and in DC appliances black is ground and red is positive. This also works in cars and trucks. If you look at trailers or RVs black is hot and white is ground.
Another very informative video.
I was not aware if the lever connection outlets. We have had the safety shutter on outlets in the UK for al least 40 years. The ground pin is longer and that is what opens the shutter.
What opens the shutter on these outlets? Just having 2 pins trying to enter at the same time?
Awesome 👍👍👍
Finally! As a European I have always found the American electricity system very old school and insecure. We have been using all these "new technologies" for decades. Recently I destroyed a dry wall that my father had built over 35 years ago. I found Wago connections inside.
Next step: the connection box that you can place where you want, without nails. :) ruclips.net/video/L9f8rdMRFmI/видео.html
There is a single pole and 3 way switch from leviton with the lever nuts
A feature you didn't mention is that they have extra tall "ears". This is good for poorly cut in boxes. The extra height breaks away if you don't want/need it.
lol outlets in denmark have had that snap in connection for at least 20 years XD
They look like a clear improvement in several ways. They definitely look way more user friendly. !:- )
Thanks
I also like this outlet cause theres no exposed terminals. So if a wire did get loose, it couldn't touch another conductor.
But in actually what is going to pull the wires out of the outlet if it is secure in the box? I feel that you would be pretty secure knowing that the wire is not going to fall out on its own.
Good video
I want to see these tested more. I also wish Leviton would have licensed/worked with Wago. The wire pulling out shakes my confidence in these overall. Great concept though.
Due to the amount of details you provided, I got more than what I have seen on this outlet and related videos. Very well explained. I had some interest on it and now I can really understand what is going on. I will do use it.
You are concerned that the wire does not hold but you tried with the wrong size wire. try it with a 14 wire and see if that makes a difference.
My house from the 60s has metal boxes, so a plastic side on the outlets seems like a good idea no shorts from the outlet to the box.
Great to see a new video! Thanks for the educational content.
They would be great for a camper
Great job as always. Keep it up.
Leviton integrated WAGO connectors in their recepticles. Makes sense.
Look up Wago lever nut ampacity test video and will see why lever nut of Wago superior to wire nuts
In Denmark we have used something similar since 1980. Without any problems. 😊
Think the biggest mistake I see is that us do it yourselfers don't rap the screws in tape to keep it from shorting out if someone touches by mistake. So lever nut outlet really eliminates that.
I wonder why the new style outlet the mfr put the ground wire on the same side as the hot... no outlets are like that except for this one as far as I know.
Good review, maybe you could get hold of some Australian electrical and compare. We ( Australia ) still need a screw driver but we only have one set of ports for the wires. I am guessing the second set of connections is for the daisy chain to run onto the next outlet. Interesting.
Thanks for coming back
great to see you back on.... now i will look for those
I’m a mechanic for a large fire rescue organization. Lever nuts have been in use on low voltage units for years. It interesting to see them moving on to ac voltage. Thanks for sharing I’m going to look for these at my local home stores.
The issue you have with the cable pulling out was due to you twisting the wire, if you build a rig with the outlet raised up install a wire and hang a weight on the wire and see how much weight it can take before either the wire fails or is pulled out
Twist the wires securely before inserting into wire nut
In most cases these would likely be ok but I wouldn't want to use them where a space heater or electric skillet, air fryer or toaster oven is used. Also wondering if they have made or plan to make a version with a GFCI built in for around sinks.
Most normal 15A outlets are rated for 20A circuits since there are 2x15A sockets. I wonder if they mean 15A max per socket or total for the receptacle.
With the blue outlet that you initially pulled the wire out of, it didn't look like the screw was tightened down.
Have you tried to pull apart wires in wire nut?
So push is world wide the norm since 20+ years only America is slowly catching up to it. In Germany we run 230-240V AC over 14gauge wire to light switches and outlets which are majority push in connectors so no longer can you shock yourself when you touch them. So yes they are perfectly safe if you use the proper Equipment. Cupper wire !!!! Not CLAD ! No green is the ground in the world because everywhere else we use green and yellow with green wires as ground wire. Also in the rest of the world bare wire is a big no no.
Great video!
More good info. Thanks, Jesse!
THANK YOU . KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK
I work with lots of qualified electricians from different backgrounds. Some electricians maybe a journey person but have different experience ( example: they only pull wire or build cable trays or only worked in a industrial setting).When looking for a qualified electrician ask questions about where they worked what they did. You don’t want to find out they didn’t have the right experience when the job goes sideways.
A quick, easy way for DIYers to get tamper resistant outlets swapped in before their little ones start putting forks in them. There are videos that confirm that lever nuts get hotter than screw wire nuts but still well within safe ranges. I'm curious to see how hot these get.
Again you are one of the best at explaining any subject. Well studied and researched. Thank you. I also love your home. Loved following your channel.
I am so glad you're checking these out. I am so surprised that these are affordable. I can't wait for the future of some of these fixtures now that these exsit.
Also I am enjoying this type of content. I'm glad your guys are back to making videos. I can't wait for what's next!
Wire nuts not allowed in EU for decades
All of the outlets in my house are 20A, not a fan of push/click, prefer a mechanically twisted pair with wire nut.
Wow I didn't realize how substandard USA wiring is, am sure it's fine, Have a look at UK standard plugs and sockets (outlets)
You would think that they have been tested before they released them to the market. However after they are installed in the box, there shouldn’t be any pulling on the wires.
Since the WAGO nut is so much smaller, it is much harder to hold on to. I wonder if you are giving it more credit than it deserves. You should put it in a vice and do a pull test with a spring scale and do the same thing with your outlet and compare the results. I personally would love to know.
In Europe/NL we work with Wago wire connection for years!! As an electrician we value them very much. Stick to Wago. Everything else is a cheap rip off their tech. Outlets with Wago look a like tech?? Mwaaa, no go for me!!
I like being able to comment.
You twist wires together with pliers first then put the wire nut on.
Only problem I've seen is the back stab on the outlet over time the spring inside gets weak and can start shorting
Can't wait to test them. Have you been still canning?
Love the new ideas and for the DYI or a small job it works good, but for large jobs that are all about $$ it will be awhile before it becomes mainstream. Love the videos!
Lever nuts are amazing. Not sure why people don’t like them
❤❤
I've seen these outlets but haven't used them because most of my shop stuff is 20 amp outlets.
These lever nuts are an interesting idea I wonder what their amperage rating is.
😮 👍🏻 awesome
Thanks Jesse, You're right and I will never again buy one of those cheap blue-backed outlets. These look far safer.
For the time being, if it doesn't say WAGO on it, no thanks.
I recently did some electrical work in my 100 year old house, and when replacing a outlet I saw that one, but it looked gimmicky and shinsei. So I ended up going with the good old-fashioned style
When you pulled the wires out,..you twisted the wire. Try just pulling the wire straight out.
Please call them receptacles. An outlet is something totally different.
It may be the easiest but not the most practical or safest. Not a fan!
chinese finger trap engineers are not going to correct badly designed latches
Hella noo!! 1st you didn't address the 15A/20A difference between plug styles. Most wiring is either old & even if new ONLY 14awg. As a professional I wire only 12awg circuits and only put 20A outlets on 1st 2 outlets using mainly 15A breakers. I also only use screw terminator! NEVER quick terms, twist wires fully before wire nuts. The full reason is though most electric plug devices are low use, people plug vacuums and air conditioning equipment into said outlets then clueless contractors plug industrial 20A equipment into said circuits. As an engineer I DON'T TRUST IDIOTS! I run equipment from the circuit panel (usually 240V 2Xbreakers) the connectivity of quick terms can burn & cause fires ~ seen this too many times. This whole DIY I'm in agreement with but it's rare that folks understand just how dangerous this quick terms wiring is nor account for idiots whom think oh it's an outlet just plug it in. There's many a case of fires caused by air-conditioning equipment (be it strait plugged or extension corded) not to mention refrigerator/freezer ~ contractor equipment in under rated circuits. Again put a 20A outlet on a 15A circuit and that funny sideways bladed equipment fits will cause a fire because some circuit breakers fail to trip! Nobody uses an outlet tester to verify the wiring nor amp rating of!!! 😿
It's very dangerous to put two circuits.. In the same junction box..
ANY ELECTRICIAN WORTH THEIR SALT USES THE SCREWS PERIOD
You shouldn't use those they arnt as safe 😅
aaaaand next video... Sharkbite and PEX