I see your wiring diagram, but from reading the comments it looks like you may have chosen to use some newer parts since 2 years ago. If you were willing to take the time to write down a parts list, especially with your latest choices, there are several pilots I know that would be willing to donate for your time and effort. Regardless, again, what you've already taken time to record is wonderful. Thank you so much.
I wish to sincerely thank you Reidar for this video which really simplifies the whole process of trying to figure out how to emulate your efforts and come up with something flyable. I will get to it as soon as possible. Too bad I'm not into batteries and aluminium myself. I'll need to outsource some building processes here ;-)
Cant Thank you enough Redar , this was a excellent Video , very well executed and great to see the thought processes that lead to The E-help system . My Project is an E-One Paramotor Launch and Thermal Finder unit not for cross country but just for Air time ..your videos have been eagerly watched and I learn something new every time ..Thanks these Videos you do are a great help and may allow the dream to come true :-)
Thanks for nice words 😊. Electrical systems for pg have been done in many forms and my thoughts are this. Mainly two issues, prop efficiency and glider drag. Prop efficiency is vastly diminished on a pg backpack setup due to the prop working in the turbulent air behind the pilot. Not so easy to solve but a tractor setup, dual prop or distance piece could be 20-30 percent improvement. Drag in the glider then a high efficiency glider to reduce the size of the electrics makes sense to me. Maybe has to be launched engine off from hill then to master the more lively and demanding glider. However, the traditional gas powered PPG gliders are positive reflex and monster drag machines requiring almost double the power of a hangglider. Don’t see that as a viable glider for electrics.
Nice video. What is the total battery life? I mean, how long can you fly with the engine running? Sorry maybe in the video you said it but I don't speak English I'm translating from Google...
This small 0,5 kWh you can fly for some 10-12 minutes. We use it not so much for climb more for moving horisontal after launch from small hill. The can easily fly 5 km distance to better thermal trigger point.
Hi. Does the foldable carbon fibre propeller fold out when it spins? And can you please share with me the brand? I would like one. Also what 80KV engine are you using?
The student version is not flatland capable. Only 0,5 kWh and ment to be a zero sinker from hill to find thermals. The full version 1kWh with nanotech 90C batteries can climb from flatland to about 400 meters but that is misuse. Correct use is to climb to some 150 meters only and then use reduced power to cruise zero sink for finding thermals over a 5 km out and return pattern.
Thanks for your good explanations Reidar. I am a mossie flyer and now busy to build an E-help according your videos. Is it possible to combine the E-mossie and the E-help on the same harness? So to use it on different gliders? How important is it where to attach them at the harness? Is this exactly at the center of gravity? You rewinded the motor with 13 strands. Is this the maximum? Many, many thanks for your engeneering work.
Hi. I use the same battery module for both the Mossie version and the direct driven version. On the Mossie version the side bars are attached to the battery module with a long steel ping trough the whole battery module. Can be seen on various videos last years. It is imbortant to attach motor boom part about same place as harness hang strap is attached. Otherwise there would be strong trim forces. The motor when rewound to 13 strands with 0,6 mm2 wire is about the maximum amount of copper You can fit into this tiny stator when 5 turns per pole.
Nice vid Reidar :) Your comments on battery packs resonated with me. Electrically I think it would be ideal to go 18S (3 x 6S) as then you have nice power with less Amperes (also less copper/gold needed). Economically though, you get much more bang for buck ($value$) by buying the largest pack you can (S or AmpHours). As drone lipos (currently) seem to top out at 6S, this then is probably the sweet-spot for buying lipos packs and chargers. Which as you say brings us to 12S. What do you reckon, take off one winding when rewiring your particular motor? Just on this, Freerchobby Co's MP12090 series has a 130KV product, would save the rewinding chore.
Reidar, thank you very much for your vidéos and your know-how, I'm in the process of gathering information in order to build my self one, is your prop Menz 34/14 a pusher ?and is there anyone rewinding the Rotomax somewhere ? I can't thank you enough for the tutorials. Louis from Québec.
Louis Charland Thanks. Props are no difference between pusher and tractor bcs it only to seap two phases to change direction. Maybe Chris at HK will do a lower KV version for You. He has said he will. I sometimes build one for others but it is rare.
Hello Reidar, my E-help is coming along pretty good, i am still waiting for my hobby king order do, I have finish the aluminium part, I have my props and I know pretty well how to do the rest , but I would like to ask you a few questions if you don't mind. please please please ! The first one is : how does the propeller brake works ? Second one: where do you get your pre-charge switch ? Third one: with the Rasa prop, what is the clear round part between the motor and the prop. I cannot thank you enough for your help.
Hello Reidar, its maybe a stupid idea from me, but can you imagine that your system is able to support landing a hangglider, f.e your system produce also some kind of a lift?
Thank you for your valuable work and patience, Reidar. Have you considered using lithium battheries instead? You can reach up to 7 Ah for 0,6 Kg in one element (Skyrich HJP7L-FP for example). What do you think? Thank you in advance for your kind answer.
The C rating is usually very low for lithium batteries compared to lithium polymer. In the newest version of E-Help we use a Crating of 70. The battereis are then type KDLIPO 5000mAh 70C 25,9V
I have been waiting for this type of awesome system to become a reality for the masses! My question: I have a Guggenmos E7 I want t o use this on. Do you think it's too heavy to foot launch like the Exxtacy? My E7 seems pretty light on my shoulders when running on flat ground. Maybe if I limit foot launching to a good headwind!? Thanks for your work!!!
In good headwind anything goes. But ground handling is still pretty heavy with an Exctacy. I have flown the Axxess fixed wing a lot with E-Help but aleays dolly start
Thank you very,very much for answering my questions. I presently have two gliders One Exxtacy 160 and a Lamouette topless. I need to buy a easier glider to fly, and I would like to buy something more performing than a Falcon. Do you still like your Astir and is it good for flat land start ?
Louis Charland I slill have my Astir and it is excellent for mountain start or dolly flatland. Foot flatland is possible only if wind is more than 5-6 m/s because even though it is a very sweet glider the 155 sq feet needs more speed than You can run. The Fun 190 barely pulls it off in zero wind, the Astir would not.
And btw, the La Mouette topless you should not fly with E-Help. It is an early generation topless and handling may get rather challenging when adding the torque and forces from electric propulsion on it. The Exxtacy performs very well in the air with E-Help but the weight and ground handling makes foot launch inpractical. My Axxess almost same glider is only possibel to fly E-Help when launched from dolly system. It's a bit impractical and I have reverted to "easy gliders" last years and then the Astir and Fun 190 works pretty nice.
You are absolutely right ! I fly my topless only with my Cosmos trike (to hard to fly alone), and the ecstasy will be good for dolly or winter on lakes with detachable skis ! I found my left a used 195 falcon ,that should the job for expérimenting with the E-help. Thank you again your a generous man with your time and knowledge.
Thanks. As You see from another video, the spot landing of E-Help inside Oslo City, I used a Falcon 2 195 sq feet with keel removed. Was very sweet to fly with E-Help footlaunch. Very similar to Fun 190. If Your body weight is less than 80 kg I would recommend the Falcon 3 170 sq feet that probably has the best overall performance with E-Help. A bit too tiny for footlaunch in zero wind but unbeatable for easyness and climb.
Michael Behn Yes, it is 40x40 rectangular tube, regular aluminium quality, a bit heavy in itself so better to cut lightening holes. The holes also helps for cooling wires and when servicing. Doubled by inner sleeve up at the attachment pin side.
Thank you for the very interesting videos Reidar. I am about to set up a very similar system and I am having a very hard time trying to find some good explanations regarding the setup of the Turnigy dlux 250 ESC. How did you cope with this issue? Did you just go for the factory settings? For instance, you changed parameter “break” from off to on. What about the other programmable parameters?
Well, that is actually a challenge since manuals are only some unprecise stuff found by googling. However, Hobbyking support adressed the problem very nicely for me by sending me a Turnigy dlux Programming Box that made programming very easy. With that tool we adjusted all E-Helps here in Norway to a bit more refined settings. Activating brake and making accelleration softer, cutting off power at higher cell voltage 3,4 volts to protect batteries was main things. Also verifying that batteries actually are set to 14s and not default 12s for correct battery protection. Cudos to Hobbyking support for very nice help in this matters 👍👍👍
Érico Schmitt No. Design is free of charge to copy for anyone. However, E-Help for sale faces too much legislation issues in too many contries so I don’t bother with that. My daytime job is same technology for ships. And that is better money for me.
The student version is about 28 kg with the 34x12 prop and the big flatland version is 32-34 kg thrust with the 34x14 prop at some 4500 rpm about. The rpm increase and the load decrease when moving forward so my numbers for static ground tests changes a bit in the air
25x15 on 150 KV it is about 7000 rpm and with 105 KV it is too small prop yo make sense. The 30x10 goes supersonic tips and breaks down performance at 150 KV. On 30x10 that is a too small prop for the 105 KV.
The e-drive systems for kites all look so bulky and complicated. Is not it possible if you take, for example, 2 aluminum or carbon tubes, in which you installed the drive batteries, this then under the focus left and right of the longitudinal center bar Fastened.The motor with the folding air screw is attached to the end of the central tube, the wiring can indeed very easily with control panel in or on the Speedbar Be attached. Thus, all parts would be housed in the smallest space and you would not have to carry everything on or in the harness with. It's just a consideration as a layman. Or the drive must be mobile on the pilot. I think if it comes to a tipping moment, the pilot can indeed start from a starting car and avoid this.
I find a motor with original 65 KV and 25KW for the same price like the hobby king motor you guys use. Du you think that I can use this motor with the same akkus and only drive it by 70% of its power for not heading up the cables of the motor? alienpowersystem.com/shop/brushless-motors/120100-s-sensored-outrunner-brushless-motor-65kv-25000w/
Christian Loeko Yes, the Alian motor will work. At 65KV it can turn slow big diameter prop. The advertised 25 kW is at very high amperes that i difficult to find batteries that can feed such an animal. The Alian is closed loop with sensors and should be run with an ESC made for this motor. Our Turnigy dlux 250 will not suit the Alian.
Thank you for your answer. I´ll use an other ESC but build an current limiter. I tested it with 210A and it works pretty well. now i try to lower the max current to Minimum for a good range extender on XC flights.
Christian Loeko Current limiter is basicly just to select a smaller prop. If You select 12 s battery then the rpm should end up in the 3000 area and huge torque. Prop may be some 38x14 from Menz. Just guessing here. Prop efficiency will be serious good. Prop could also be some powered paraglider type if You can fit the hub. Avoid 3 blade prop, they are a pain in the ass for transport.
That´s really helpfull! I try it with a 12S System and I think i buy a 39x13 Paramotor Prop, I completly forgot about the Transport thank you for this Input! I also think that I need not that much power as you because I not want to start in the Flats and I only have 65kg. So maybe I reduce the RpM int the area of 2500 with 19kg maximum drag. Also i wan´t to say thank you for the great Videos and the really good Inputs!!
Christian Loeko At 65 kg body weight You will with a glider like Falcon 170 or similar fly zero sink at 15 kg thrust and at 30 kg thrust have a climb rate at 1 m/s. However, Yor sustem should not be more heavy than the E-Help Student 10-12 kg because it gets to unpractical. A big diameter prop like 38 or 39 at 3000 rpm is very efficient so You save the weight by reducing the battery size. 1kWh battery weights 8 kg, You need only half of that because the energy does not get to waste in losses. Check out videos from a Newzeeland called Brendan that haa made a 12s version of E-Help. Just started testflights an put out two videos
Hey Reidar , is it possible on this esc Hobbyking (6-14S 60v) to use 3 packs 5S (15S ) 18,5V x3 = 55,5 volts, with the new motor U15 II KV80 ( store-en.tmotor.com/goods.php?id=731) thanks a lot
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
This is an incredible project and design. Thank you for publishing these videos.
I see your wiring diagram, but from reading the comments it looks like you may have chosen to use some newer parts since 2 years ago. If you were willing to take the time to write down a parts list, especially with your latest choices, there are several pilots I know that would be willing to donate for your time and effort. Regardless, again, what you've already taken time to record is wonderful. Thank you so much.
I wish to sincerely thank you Reidar for this video which really simplifies the whole process of trying to figure out how to emulate your efforts and come up with something flyable. I will get to it as soon as possible. Too bad I'm not into batteries and aluminium myself. I'll need to outsource some building processes here ;-)
Thanks 🙂
Dear Reidar, Thank you so much this film, this is a best help, I really appreciate your work, you are a very great man. Thanks a lot.
István
István Molnár Thanks 😊
Excellent job! Thanks for the in depth look.
Carson Capaul Thanks :-)
Cant Thank you enough Redar , this was a excellent Video , very well executed and great to see the thought processes that lead to The E-help system . My Project is an E-One Paramotor Launch and Thermal Finder unit not for cross country but just for Air time ..your videos have been eagerly watched and I learn something new every time ..Thanks these Videos you do are a great help and may allow the dream to come true :-)
Thanks for nice words 😊. Electrical systems for pg have been done in many forms and my thoughts are this. Mainly two issues, prop efficiency and glider drag. Prop efficiency is vastly diminished on a pg backpack setup due to the prop working in the turbulent air behind the pilot. Not so easy to solve but a tractor setup, dual prop or distance piece could be 20-30 percent improvement. Drag in the glider then a high efficiency glider to reduce the size of the electrics makes sense to me. Maybe has to be launched engine off from hill then to master the more lively and demanding glider. However, the traditional gas powered PPG gliders are positive reflex and monster drag machines requiring almost double the power of a hangglider. Don’t see that as a viable glider for electrics.
Thank you Reider for the great easy to follow video. Good Job.
Nice video. What is the total battery life? I mean, how long can you fly with the engine running? Sorry maybe in the video you said it but I don't speak English I'm translating from Google...
This small 0,5 kWh you can fly for some 10-12 minutes. We use it not so much for climb more for moving horisontal after launch from small hill. The can easily fly 5 km distance to better thermal trigger point.
@@AcrodesignerLNSNI thank you so much you are very kind :)
love the video! hope to see more soon!
Hello Reidar. I would like to know how much does the whole thing weight, inlcuing the wheels, thank you, I apreciate your work!
11 kg
Thank you so much for your e-help. I live in Italy and I've a Ralex18 (Icaro2000). I'd like build an e-help. Have you got plans ?
Looks amazing. How much are the components and to cnc the various bits? How many days for a professional precision engineer to build it from plans?
Thank you for doing this.
Hey what propeller is the carbon fibre one? You said it's expensive. I really want this one. Thank you hey
Hi. Does the foldable carbon fibre propeller fold out when it spins? And can you please share with me the brand? I would like one. Also what 80KV engine are you using?
It folds out by centrifugal force. And folds in by windstream and rubber band pull. The prop is from company RASA. And is a 3 blade 34x22
what method do you use to lock the propeller so it doesnt windmill when the power is off in flight?
Paul Martin We activate the brake function on the ESC
Awesome. What is the altitude you can reach from the flat land start with the student or full version ?
Thank you
The student version is not flatland capable. Only 0,5 kWh and ment to be a zero sinker from hill to find thermals. The full version 1kWh with nanotech 90C batteries can climb from flatland to about 400 meters but that is misuse. Correct use is to climb to some 150 meters only and then use reduced power to cruise zero sink for finding thermals over a 5 km out and return pattern.
Reidar Berntsen Thank you, good work
Thanks for your good explanations Reidar. I am a mossie flyer and now busy to build an E-help according your videos.
Is it possible to combine the E-mossie and the E-help on the same harness? So to use it on different gliders? How
important is it where to attach them at the harness? Is this exactly at the center of gravity?
You rewinded the motor with 13 strands. Is this the maximum?
Many, many thanks for your engeneering work.
Hi. I use the same battery module for both the Mossie version and the direct driven version. On the Mossie version the side bars are attached to the battery module with a long steel ping trough the whole battery module. Can be seen on various videos last years. It is imbortant to attach motor boom part about same place as harness hang strap is attached. Otherwise there would be strong trim forces. The motor when rewound to 13 strands with 0,6 mm2 wire is about the maximum amount of copper You can fit into this tiny stator when 5 turns per pole.
hi reidar,thank you for your sharing of innovative e-flphg idea. I wanna know the length of tail boom.
Lenght of the tail boom is 130 centimeter
@@AcrodesignerLNSNI Thank you so much!
Nice vid Reidar :) Your comments on battery packs resonated with me. Electrically I think it would be ideal to go 18S (3 x 6S) as then you have nice power with less Amperes (also less copper/gold needed). Economically though, you get much more bang for buck ($value$) by buying the largest pack you can (S or AmpHours). As drone lipos (currently) seem to top out at 6S, this then is probably the sweet-spot for buying lipos packs and chargers. Which as you say brings us to 12S. What do you reckon, take off one winding when rewiring your particular motor? Just on this, Freerchobby Co's MP12090 series has a 130KV product, would save the rewinding chore.
HG argo 12s on a 130 KV would work I think
Hi, I would like to know what type of motor model it is and the name of the motor?
What Fabric is the 3 Sheet Folding Prop you are flying with?
svesom When flying the 3 blade it is a carbon fibre prop. Type Rasa 34x12
Reidar, thank you very much for your vidéos and your know-how, I'm in the process of gathering information in order to build my self one, is your prop Menz 34/14 a pusher ?and is there anyone rewinding the Rotomax somewhere ? I can't thank you enough for the tutorials.
Louis from Québec.
Louis Charland Thanks. Props are no difference between pusher and tractor bcs it only to seap two phases to change direction. Maybe Chris at HK will do a lower KV version for You. He has said he will. I sometimes build one for others but it is rare.
Hello Reidar, my E-help is coming along pretty good, i am still waiting for my hobby king order do, I have finish the aluminium part, I have my props and I know pretty well how to do the rest , but I would like to ask you a few questions if you don't mind. please please please ! The first one is : how does the propeller brake works ?
Second one: where do you get your pre-charge switch ? Third one: with the Rasa prop, what is the clear round
part between the motor and the prop.
I cannot thank you enough for your help.
Hello Reidar, its maybe a stupid idea from me, but can you imagine that your system is able to support landing a hangglider, f.e your system produce also some kind of a lift?
Thank you for your valuable work and patience, Reidar. Have you considered using lithium battheries instead? You can reach up to 7 Ah for 0,6 Kg in one element (Skyrich HJP7L-FP for example). What do you think? Thank you in advance for your kind answer.
The C rating is usually very low for lithium batteries compared to lithium polymer. In the newest version of E-Help we use a Crating of 70. The battereis are then type KDLIPO 5000mAh 70C 25,9V
Thank you!
I have been waiting for this type of awesome system to become a reality for the masses! My question: I have a Guggenmos E7 I want t o use this on. Do you think it's too heavy to foot launch like the Exxtacy? My E7 seems pretty light on my shoulders when running on flat ground. Maybe if I limit foot launching to a good headwind!? Thanks for your work!!!
In good headwind anything goes. But ground handling is still pretty heavy with an Exctacy. I have flown the Axxess fixed wing a lot with E-Help but aleays dolly start
what harness are you using?
Thank you very,very much for answering my questions. I presently have two gliders One Exxtacy 160 and a Lamouette topless. I need to buy a easier glider to fly, and I would like to buy something more performing than a Falcon.
Do you still like your Astir and is it good for flat land start ?
Louis Charland I slill have my Astir and it is excellent for mountain start or dolly flatland. Foot flatland is possible only if wind is more than 5-6 m/s because even though it is a very sweet glider the 155 sq feet needs more speed than You can run. The Fun 190 barely pulls it off in zero wind, the Astir would not.
And btw, the La Mouette topless you should not fly with E-Help. It is an early generation topless and handling may get rather challenging when adding the torque and forces from electric propulsion on it. The Exxtacy performs very well in the air with E-Help but the weight and ground handling makes foot launch inpractical. My Axxess almost same glider is only possibel to fly E-Help when launched from dolly system. It's a bit impractical and I have reverted to "easy gliders" last years and then the Astir and Fun 190 works pretty nice.
You are absolutely right ! I fly my topless only with my Cosmos trike (to hard to fly alone), and the ecstasy will be good for dolly or winter on lakes with detachable skis ! I found my left a used 195 falcon ,that should the job for expérimenting with the E-help. Thank you again your a generous man with your time and knowledge.
Thanks. As You see from another video, the spot landing of E-Help inside Oslo City, I used a Falcon 2 195 sq feet with keel removed. Was very sweet to fly with E-Help footlaunch. Very similar to Fun 190. If Your body weight is less than 80 kg I would recommend the Falcon 3 170 sq feet that probably has the best overall performance with E-Help. A bit too tiny for footlaunch in zero wind but unbeatable for easyness and climb.
Thank's and happy holiday's with your family.
Is that commercially available or just home built?
Hi Erico. It is not commercially available. However, homebuilders are free to copy free of charge. See the video «E-Help how it is made»
Hello, what is the total cost for this product? are you selling
Dear Reidar,
which size does your rectangular tube have here 40x40x3mm?
Michael Behn Yes, it is 40x40 rectangular tube, regular aluminium quality, a bit heavy in itself so better to cut lightening holes. The holes also helps for cooling wires and when servicing. Doubled by inner sleeve up at the attachment pin side.
Reidar hei! Fortell meg hvordan du fester dette designet til fjæringen ???
how do u secure it to the harness?
tq
Mohd Saiful Mohd Said probably the chassi just bolts on the carbon backplate
Thank you for the very interesting videos Reidar. I am about to set up a very similar system and I am having a very hard time trying to find some good explanations regarding the setup of the Turnigy dlux 250 ESC. How did you cope with this issue? Did you just go for the factory settings? For instance, you changed parameter “break” from off to on. What about the other programmable parameters?
Well, that is actually a challenge since manuals are only some unprecise stuff found by googling. However, Hobbyking support adressed the problem very nicely for me by sending me a Turnigy dlux Programming Box that made programming very easy. With that tool we adjusted all E-Helps here in Norway to a bit more refined settings. Activating brake and making accelleration softer, cutting off power at higher cell voltage 3,4 volts to protect batteries was main things. Also verifying that batteries actually are set to 14s and not default 12s for correct battery protection. Cudos to Hobbyking support for very nice help in this matters 👍👍👍
HI REIDAR.. YOU SELL YOUR KIT E HELP FOR MI?? BRASIL NOT HAVE THE PARTS... THANKS
Ricardo Cozar Hello Ricardo. No, I do not sell the parts. Hobbyking do. Brg Reidar
Reidar Berntsen do you sell the plans and part list?
Érico Schmitt No. Design is free of charge to copy for anyone. However, E-Help for sale faces too much legislation issues in too many contries so I don’t bother with that. My daytime job is same technology for ships. And that is better money for me.
how much thrust does it give
The student version is about 28 kg with the 34x12 prop and the big flatland version is 32-34 kg thrust with the 34x14 prop at some 4500 rpm about. The rpm increase and the load decrease when moving forward so my numbers for static ground tests changes a bit in the air
if i use 16 s what will be thrust
Hello Reidar
What maximum RPM prop 25x15 the 30x10??..thanks
25x15 on 150 KV it is about 7000 rpm and with 105 KV it is too small prop yo make sense. The 30x10 goes supersonic tips and breaks down performance at 150 KV. On 30x10 that is a too small prop for the 105 KV.
The e-drive systems for kites all look so bulky and complicated.
Is not it possible if you take, for example, 2 aluminum or carbon tubes, in which you installed the drive batteries, this then under the focus left and right of the longitudinal center bar
Fastened.The motor with the folding air screw is attached to the end of the central tube, the wiring can indeed very easily with control panel in or on the Speedbar
Be attached.
Thus, all parts would be housed in the smallest space and you would not have to carry everything on or in the harness with.
It's just a consideration as a layman. Or the drive must be mobile on the pilot.
I think if it comes to a tipping moment, the pilot can indeed start from a starting car and avoid this.
I find a motor with original 65 KV and 25KW for the same price like the hobby king motor you guys use. Du you think that I can use this motor with the same akkus and only drive it by 70% of its power for not heading up the cables of the motor? alienpowersystem.com/shop/brushless-motors/120100-s-sensored-outrunner-brushless-motor-65kv-25000w/
Christian Loeko Yes, the Alian motor will work. At 65KV it can turn slow big diameter prop. The advertised 25 kW is at very high amperes that i difficult to find batteries that can feed such an animal. The Alian is closed loop with sensors and should be run with an ESC made for this motor. Our Turnigy dlux 250 will not suit the Alian.
Thank you for your answer. I´ll use an other ESC but build an current limiter. I tested it with 210A and it works pretty well. now i try to lower the max current to Minimum for a good range extender on XC flights.
Christian Loeko Current limiter is basicly just to select a smaller prop. If You select 12 s battery then the rpm should end up in the 3000 area and huge torque. Prop may be some 38x14 from Menz. Just guessing here. Prop efficiency will be serious good. Prop could also be some powered paraglider type if You can fit the hub. Avoid 3 blade prop, they are a pain in the ass for transport.
That´s really helpfull! I try it with a 12S System and I think i buy a 39x13 Paramotor Prop, I completly forgot about the Transport thank you for this Input! I also think that I need not that much power as you because I not want to start in the Flats and I only have 65kg. So maybe I reduce the RpM int the area of 2500 with 19kg maximum drag. Also i wan´t to say thank you for the great Videos and the really good Inputs!!
Christian Loeko At 65 kg body weight You will with a glider like Falcon 170 or similar fly zero sink at 15 kg thrust and at 30 kg thrust have a climb rate at 1 m/s. However, Yor sustem should not be more heavy than the E-Help Student 10-12 kg because it gets to unpractical. A big diameter prop like 38 or 39 at 3000 rpm is very efficient so You save the weight by reducing the battery size. 1kWh battery weights 8 kg, You need only half of that because the energy does not get to waste in losses. Check out videos from a Newzeeland called Brendan that haa made a 12s version of E-Help. Just started testflights an put out two videos
Hey Reidar , is it possible on this esc Hobbyking (6-14S 60v) to use 3 packs 5S (15S ) 18,5V x3 = 55,5 volts, with the new motor U15 II KV80 ( store-en.tmotor.com/goods.php?id=731) thanks a lot