I have also 400 AMP lithium battery with 500 w solar panel. I decided to go with the Minisplit installed in the bedroom condensation at the back bumper. The key is to have above 20 SEER mini-split, 9,000 W would do, BUT you will need a 3000 W Victron Inverter to work. good luck. I can send you pictures about mine if you want. This set up leaves intact the manufactured AC installation, but for the night it gives you totally silent AC or heat , we love it
Ron, I have a 2017 Navion J. Over the years, your videos inspired me with your ideas and brought me up to speed on my rig. As an Industrial engineer and Acft electronics tech, last year I DIYed to full lithium. We made the change due wife's health issues requirement. I don't recommend attempting a DIY unless one has electrical/electronic background or a friend with same. All my wiring was modified or rewired or run new. I started ordering parts in early 2020 and rack mounted not an option then. If I were doing it now, I would go with the rack. I installed six battleborn batteries (2 in step well and 4 in luggage bay with 2ea stacked on each other and facing each other in rack I mfg.) Installed 640w roof solar + able to connect up to 5 100w aux panel on the ground. I went total Victron: 712, 3000 multiplus II inverter/charger (I love this... I can set it to draw a Max current from shore with battery inverter picking up the balance up to 50 amps), 4 MPPT solar charge controllers (2-75/15 with one pair wired in parallel on each side of the air conditioner, one pair wired in series on the port side, 1- 100/20 wired in series on the starboard side aft, and 1- 100/30 wired to the AUX port.). Additionally, I use blocking diodes in both my series and parallel wired panels to ensure maximum current output during shading. Installed DCtoDC converter, shunt, Lynx distribution buss bar and installed 12v to 5v regulator to pwr the LED fuse status lights. Additionally, I realized the Amp L Start charger would be unstable when using my DC to DC converter charger with motor running. The DC to DC converter charger steps up or steps down the voltage output to the batteries as required for their charging. Therefore, the Amp L Start can become unstable when the alternator is running since it is in parallel with the DCto DC converter charger. So I initially isolated the AmpL using a remote control relay to disconnect when the engine is on. I sought Amp-L's advice and They were aware of the issue and already testing the engineering solution. I since ordered and received their ignition controlled relay kit for installation. This is a great company who seems to be on top of everything. This was costly but it allows my wife to travel and not just on long or short trips but even around town.
@@ontheroadwithron2432 Ron, if I were to do it again I would investigate wiring with 24 or 48 volts. I reasoned I could wire with 12v and save another voltage drop from a step down device...Well after working the tight and awkward spaces using 4/0 I wished I had built another spreadsheet on 24 or 48. I kept voltage loss 3% or less since wanted to squeeze all I could from system. Very pleased but the rack system much tighter and less work I admire your work and details.
Great vid, as always. Would much rather watch this than the overproduced shill "influencers". @3:30 "most people would put in a 40A DC-DC" AFAIK DC-DC are rated on output, and may take >40A from the alternator when pumping 40A of boosted voltage into the house bank. I do have all three ways set up for my little LFP bank, but solar does 95% of the lifting since I'm typically boondocking in the desert. I thought I might have to replace the VSR isolator with a DC-DC when I went FLA-->LiFePO4, but the 100Ah bank pulls an acceptable ~30A from the 180A alt (Promaster chassis). I put an ON/OFF switch inline with the VSR's ground wire to disable it manually when appropriate.
Would you consider any benefit to power line conditioning or protection from other power anomalies? Or do all chargers protect well enough to not think about it?
Good question. The only AC power i have thought about is the power at camp grounds. I do have a EMS installed to make sure the voltage is correct. The inverter(dc charger) is connected directly to the battery. DC power does not need conditioning as the battery actually acts as a conditioner. It will smooth out any minor voltage ripples. The battery actually makes the voltage from the charger more stable.
Hi Ron, Thank you for another great video. As I mentioned to you before, we have exact same model as you do. I installed lithium batteries a few months ago and I thought I was done with that chapter. But, your video got me thinking about the alternator. I never had given it any thought that I might be overburdening it. So, now I'm thinking about installing a DC-DC charger (Victron or Renogy). However, in designing this in my head, I started pondering several things and I'm hoping to get your thoughts/input. If I wired in a DC-DC charger, would that be a problem for the Trik-L-charger (I actually bought the Amp-L-Start for Lithium batteries) trying to charge the chassis battery? What about the battery-boost switch near the steering wheel will that still work (Do you have yours still connected?) And, where do you think the best physical location would be for the DC-DC charger? Lastly, should I get 20amp, 40Amp, or something else? Strange how one little project seems to develop so many questions.....
Thanks Ron for these videos. Did you consider a BIM for your alternator? Or you don't need one? Battery Isolation Monitor. that is what i put in from my 16V. with 2 Battleborn Lits in the stair well. Also got the Victron I still sort of worry about my set up. ruclips.net/video/YEQCjtqG_qY/видео.html
> Did you consider a BIM for your alternator? Or you don't need one? Did you watch the whole video? He tested it around the 5:00 mark and was able to touch the alternator case. BTW, BB recommends the BIM for >300Ah installs. As for me, I run a plain isolator (VSR) fopr 100Ah and don't /idle/ to charge. Only while driving.
That alternator is dreaming if it thinks it is 200+ Amps @ 12V but what is screwing the math is the constant use of the term 6V LA battery. Assuming that you have a pair of 6V batteries in series. As for charging Lithium, use a DC-DC smart charger that is limited to a draw current that doesn't overload the vehicles systems.
I use (2) of these batteries in series to power a three-wheel golf push cart. A round of golf normally lasts about 4 hours. Should I charge the batteries after each use?
Hard to tell without a battery monitor to measure actual current flow. Check the voltage afterwards. If it is 13.0 volts or higher, you might vbe able to get another riund in without charging.
Install another alternator specifically for the lithium batteries they have a kit so you dont blow up your batteries which is is more money thousands for lithium for me instead of quality Trojan 6v are not for me those interstates you have are garbage
I have also 400 AMP lithium battery with 500 w solar panel. I decided to go with the Minisplit installed in the bedroom
condensation at the back bumper. The key is to have above 20 SEER mini-split, 9,000 W would do, BUT you will need a 3000 W Victron Inverter to work. good luck. I can send you pictures about mine if you want. This set up leaves intact the manufactured AC installation, but for the night it gives you totally silent AC or heat , we love it
Ron, I have a 2017 Navion J. Over the years, your videos inspired me with your ideas and brought me up to speed on my rig. As an Industrial engineer and Acft electronics tech, last year I DIYed to full lithium. We made the change due wife's health issues requirement. I don't recommend attempting a DIY unless one has electrical/electronic background or a friend with same. All my wiring was modified or rewired or run new. I started ordering parts in early 2020 and rack mounted not an option then. If I were doing it now, I would go with the rack. I installed six battleborn batteries (2 in step well and 4 in luggage bay with 2ea stacked on each other and facing each other in rack I mfg.) Installed 640w roof solar + able to connect up to 5 100w aux panel on the ground. I went total Victron: 712, 3000 multiplus II inverter/charger (I love this... I can set it to draw a Max current from shore with battery inverter picking up the balance up to 50 amps), 4 MPPT solar charge controllers (2-75/15 with one pair wired in parallel on each side of the air conditioner, one pair wired in series on the port side, 1- 100/20 wired in series on the starboard side aft, and 1- 100/30 wired to the AUX port.). Additionally, I use blocking diodes in both my series and parallel wired panels to ensure maximum current output during shading. Installed DCtoDC converter, shunt, Lynx distribution buss bar and installed 12v to 5v regulator to pwr the LED fuse status lights. Additionally, I realized the Amp L Start charger would be unstable when using my DC to DC converter charger with motor running. The DC to DC converter charger steps up or steps down the voltage output to the batteries as required for their charging. Therefore, the Amp L Start can become unstable when the alternator is running since it is in parallel with the DCto DC converter charger. So I initially isolated the AmpL using a remote control relay to disconnect when the engine is on. I sought Amp-L's advice and They were aware of the issue and already testing the engineering solution. I since ordered and received their ignition controlled relay kit for installation. This is a great company who seems to be on top of everything. This was costly but it allows my wife to travel and not just on long or short trips but even around town.
That was a big job. I’m considering if switching to a 24v system would work for me. Not sure yet.
@@ontheroadwithron2432 Ron, if I were to do it again I would investigate wiring with 24 or 48 volts. I reasoned I could wire with 12v and save another voltage drop from a step down device...Well after working the tight and awkward spaces using 4/0 I wished I had built another spreadsheet on 24 or 48. I kept voltage loss 3% or less since wanted to squeeze all I could from system. Very pleased but the rack system much tighter and less work
I admire your work and details.
You make GREAT videos..
Great vid, as always. Would much rather watch this than the overproduced shill "influencers".
@3:30 "most people would put in a 40A DC-DC" AFAIK DC-DC are rated on output, and may take >40A from the alternator when pumping 40A of boosted voltage into the house bank.
I do have all three ways set up for my little LFP bank, but solar does 95% of the lifting since I'm typically boondocking in the desert. I thought I might have to replace the VSR isolator with a DC-DC when I went FLA-->LiFePO4, but the 100Ah bank pulls an acceptable ~30A from the 180A alt (Promaster chassis). I put an ON/OFF switch inline with the VSR's ground wire to disable it manually when appropriate.
I just read that Mercedes updated their spec to allow 80 amps from alternator. Still planning for solar charging but good to know.
Would you consider any benefit to power line conditioning or protection from other power anomalies? Or do all chargers protect well enough to not think about it?
Good question. The only AC power i have thought about is the power at camp grounds. I do have a EMS installed to make sure the voltage is correct. The inverter(dc charger) is connected directly to the battery. DC power does not need conditioning as the battery actually acts as a conditioner. It will smooth out any minor voltage ripples. The battery actually makes the voltage from the charger more stable.
I just have a noob question..can you charge you litium battery to ure house?
Yes. Can plug into a regular wall outlet (with adapter). The converter will charge the battery like normal.
Hi Ron, Thank you for another great video. As I mentioned to you before, we have exact same model as you do. I installed lithium batteries a few months ago and I thought I was done with that chapter. But, your video got me thinking about the alternator. I never had given it any thought that I might be overburdening it. So, now I'm thinking about installing a DC-DC charger (Victron or Renogy). However, in designing this in my head, I started pondering several things and I'm hoping to get your thoughts/input. If I wired in a DC-DC charger, would that be a problem for the Trik-L-charger (I actually bought the Amp-L-Start for Lithium batteries) trying to charge the chassis battery? What about the battery-boost switch near the steering wheel will that still work (Do you have yours still connected?) And, where do you think the best physical location would be for the DC-DC charger? Lastly, should I get 20amp, 40Amp, or something else? Strange how one little project seems to develop so many questions.....
Thanks Ron for these videos. Did you consider a BIM for your alternator? Or you don't need one? Battery Isolation Monitor.
that is what i put in from my 16V. with 2 Battleborn Lits in the stair well. Also got the Victron I still sort of worry about my set up.
ruclips.net/video/YEQCjtqG_qY/видео.html
> Did you consider a BIM for your alternator? Or you don't need one?
Did you watch the whole video? He tested it around the 5:00 mark and was able to touch the alternator case.
BTW, BB recommends the BIM for >300Ah installs. As for me, I run a plain isolator (VSR) fopr 100Ah and don't /idle/ to charge. Only while driving.
That alternator is dreaming if it thinks it is 200+ Amps @ 12V but what is screwing the math is the constant use of the term 6V LA battery. Assuming that you have a pair of 6V batteries in series.
As for charging Lithium, use a DC-DC smart charger that is limited to a draw current that doesn't overload the vehicles systems.
I agree However how much is overloading? Just ran a few tests to see for my self. The alternator looks very capable.
I just recently bought (2) 12v 10ah lithium batteries. Do I need to charge them out of the box - or do they come precharged? Thanks!
Depends on the manufacturer but they are normally shipped recharged to 50-75%.
I use (2) of these batteries in series to power a three-wheel golf push cart.
A round of golf normally lasts about 4 hours.
Should I charge the batteries after each use?
Hard to tell without a battery monitor to measure actual current flow. Check the voltage afterwards. If it is 13.0 volts or higher, you might vbe able to get another riund in without charging.
@@ontheroadwithron2432 Thanks Ron!
Install another alternator specifically for the lithium batteries they have a kit so you dont blow up your batteries which is is more money thousands for lithium for me instead of quality Trojan 6v are not for me those interstates you have are garbage