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I've tried many different settings for the Sigma f/1.8 14mm but if it's not set to infinity at the camera, everything isn't sharp at f/11. Now if we are at f/13+ we can be a bit below that and still have everything sharp but it looks nearly the same as f/11 set to infinity. Not the cameras hardware set to the maximum, just when it shows infinity at the OSD and on the lens dial window.
Ross, that was absolutely useful. As an amateur photographer, my key takeaways from this video were #1 - knowing why you dont want to set the aperture to the highest possible such as f22 and #2 - to set the camera to liveview mode so that it locks up the mirror. Thank you for those invaluable tips, I am going to always keep them in the back of my mind and use them when I take landscape photos., and hope to see my photos turn out to be much more sharper.
Awesome video - landscapes are the photos I probably enjoy most looking at, but have always escaped me in how to make them more engaging. This video at least helped a lot with the technical aspects I've wrestled with.
I was looking to buy a book on landscape photography. Your name came up. I searched RUclips and found your video. Very informative and precise. I bought your book Landscape photography workshop and subscribed to your channel. Thank you, looking forward to watching your videos and reading your book.
Nicely done. Note that some modern mirror less lenses have no distance scale and therefore one must estimate the double distance point! Again...thanks for taking the time to present this valuable information.
I don't know. The stuff at the top third line is not always the same relative distance depending on the angle of the camera and the subject matter. Nor is the stuff on the bottom grid line necessarily at the distance you want to focus. I'm putting the kibosh on this method.
Very "sharp" presentation, Ross! As a landscape and product photographer, image sharpness is vital to my work, and I employ most of the techniques you mention here. One other small tip might be to always use a lens hood. I've found that it maximizes overall image quality by avoiding flare, when the sun is at or near the edge of the field of view. By reducing/eliminating flare, you're also assuring that your image has the most micro-contrast possible, which in itself adds to the perception of sharpness. If you don't have a lens hood, I simply use my hand to shield any unwanted light sources, being careful to not obstruct the lens, especially when using a very wide angle lens. One more tip...If you remove any UV filter prior to the exposure, you'll also ensure the maximum sharpness that the lens is capable of. I've always used "premium" filters to protect my lens' front element, however, in some laborious testing done a while ago, I found that even the "best" filter can have a sublte, minute effect on image sharpness, ehich may not be noticeable to many, especially when the image output is online only, however, when printing very large, it can have a slightly adverse effect on sharpness. Thanks again for sharing these excellent tips!
Ross has such a calm demeanor. He strikes me as the kind of guy who has literally never been angry in his life (or he gets mega ragey, either or). Not that it is relevant to this enjoyable video, but I just noticed 😅
Thanks for the video. Was shooting landscapes today myself and thinking about these things. Your video really helped me to be one step further tomorrow.
Thank you. A wonderfully informative piece of work. I don’t think there was any brand new information however, to have each one given in context makes this the best in class. There’s not a wasted moment here. Good luck with your channel.
The best thing I got from your video, all of it was very good, but the last 15 seconds really made my day. I never thought about using a loop to look at the back screen.
On a mirrorless camera, I would recommend using EFCS (or electronic first-curtain shutter) for maximum sharpness. This is more important on the high-res cameras than it is on the lower resolution cameras but it can help. This can reduce shutter shock, and some DSLRs also have EFCS as well (like the Nikon D800 series). Also make sure you turn off image stabilization (if it's built into the lens) and IBIS if you have those features since you are on a tripod. IF it's windy, I've found to maybe leave those on just in case there is slight vibration from the wind, but most of the time, I turn those features off.
Hi Ross, I dont know if you remember me, but we had a day tohether in 2016 in Cornwall. I have been searching for videos by yourself and at last found this site! Its really good to see videos by you, it reminds me of that great day we had. Still using the technics you taught me! Thanks again for the help you gave me, its paying dividend re my photography. Mike
I think one thing that's important for people to know is that they can use wide apertures like f/1.8 for landscape, as long as whatever they're photographing is 50-300ft away, depending on focal length, and will get even sharper images that way. People tend to think of wide apertures as settings you'd use for background blur, but that's only if you're focusing close. If you focus to infinite, everything after ~70ft on 28mm will be in focus at 1.8. Or everything after a few hundred ft. on 80mm+. If your subject isn't closer than that, then using a smaller aperture will only result in a less sharp image. Smaller apertures are more for landscapes when you want something really close in focus. But ~70ft at 28mm isn't really that far to get sharp focus at f/1.8. And it will be sharper than anything you can achieve at f/10 or f/16.
What a breath of fresh air; a clear, informative, interesting and very professionally presented video. Ross, your presentation abilities shine in a RUclips world of mediocrity and irrelevance (how many footpaths must I watch photographers walk until I get to a point in the video where they say something interesting about taking a photograph?). I am currently having a re-think about focus in landscape photography because of inconsistent results and I found your clear and succinct summary of the options very helpful. The double-distance technique is new to me and I will give that a try. Many Thanks.
Thanks for this video with golden tips Ross. The only problem I have: how to estimate more or less exactly the distance between your lens and the focusing point in the field? It’s always guesswork for me...Thx for your reaction!
Very informative Ross. I found this video a while back but didnt get around to commenting. The advice on the double distance focusing is wonderful. Works everytime. Thank you very much.
Great video! To check if everything is pinsharp, you use a viewing loupe, but I wonder if you zoom in at the background and check. In my case the background it's always soft, so I will try the others methods instead of hyperfocal distance.
Excellent video... Might add to use mirror lock up and a remote release (or self timer) for long exposures with a DSLR or just use the remote release or self timer for your mirrorless cameras. Also, using an Arca Compatible clamp and a L-racket will help the stability of vertically composed shots because the camera is not hanging cantilevered over the side of the tripod head!
Great landscape focusing tip. To make sure I have a good focus for my landscapes in the future, I will be using both the double distance focusing technique you mentioned and focus stacking. I use a twist for focus stacking. I use a wide open aperture and focus on a close point of interest then focus on a distant point of interest leaving a midrange soft gap to highlight to near and far focus points.
Brilliant video, very informative I will be trying your tips on pin sharp landscapes in the Atlas Mountains this week. Thanks again can’t wait to watch the rest of your tutorials.
Nice video. Great explanation of the 2x closest desired in-focus distance. That said, you mention that you are keeping your D850 in liveview mode to avoid mirror slap. To the extent the 850 works like the 800 and 750, liveview does not avoid slap (mirror pops down on shutter press so exposure meter up in the pentaprism can get a reading, pops back up, shutter actuates). I'd suggest, instead MUP mode (one press to raise mirror, the next to actuate shutter). On the 750, the 'shutter delay' set in the menu introduces a delay between mirror up and shutter actuate. As I remember, you can set between 0 (off) and 3 seconds. MUP does not work with interval shooting, but shutter delay does, so long as you take the delay into account when you are setting up intervals. I use this for stackable star-trail-free astro shots.
Great tutorial, thank you. I know that, at least on Nikon bodies, the Self-Timer doesn't lock up the mirror prior to the exposure, but I wonder whether entering Live View when using the Timer would negate the effects of mirror-shock? Exposure Delay Mode (EDM) is another option I don't think you mentioned, whereby vibrations from both the mirror and pressing the shutter are eliminated. One can turn on yet another option when EDM is active, namely Electronic First Curtain Shutter, which eliminates vibrations from the shutter as well. Options, options!
Congrats on a wonderfully informative and well presented tutorial. I will head out today and put your advice into practice with a little more confidence.....
Very nice and useful discussion, although it’s not obvious why the double distance method should be better than the 1/3-2/3 method. Also, worth noting that anti-alias filters which many/most cameras have, deliberately introduce some blur. Hence the need for sharpening in post. More cameras are starting to lack the aa filter.
Hi Ross, Cant believe this video! When I had my day with you we climbed all the way up to this very spot in Boscastle. Brings back great memories of the day I spent with you. Mike
Gidday Ross, 1st time to your channel, really informative and educational... i instantly subscribed and hit the notification button... i will probably binge watch all videos today, keep up the great work.
Hello, a question if i may, if you choose a focuspoint in the foreground, that can also influence your composition. If you focus, hold, and recompose you have a change in depth. How do you focus in the foreground and aim the lens center higher up for the desired composition?
Good piece of advice. I generally stick around the f/8 to f/11 range for my landscape photos and usually no more than 2-stops from the smallest/highest aperture (ie. so I avoid f/16 and f/22). Although it's worth noting that a lot of new cameras have diffraction compensation controls which can be helpful if you have to shoot at higher f-stops (beyond f/11 let's say, although I've never shot really behond f/16 on my newer Nikon Z system so I don't know how this system impacts IQ versus turning off the feature). Of course if I'm faced with a situation where f/11 may not be sufficient (which is rare) then I'll resort to f/8 and focus stack in post for best results... its a bit more work but with PS these days, focus stacking is easy and relatively quick to do if you do it right. The one issue I have with HF distance is that if you're off (either you miscalculate or you focus on the wrong part of your scene), it can ruin your shot or the shot is not (acceptably) sharp throughout. This is where I like either focus stacking (if I'm lazy), or the Double The Distance Method, which you mentioned, and I've been experimenting with.
Just a point, when you us stack focus and combine the pictures, you have optical sharpness through your picture, not actually what depth of field is as what is call reasonable sharpness. Also, some mirrorless cameras have quite good focus peaking, like Fujifilm’s xt3. Based on aperture, this will share a very good telling of depth of field. Oh, and if you have you camera up high on a tripod and the tripod is light weight, the wind can catch it and blow it over.
By definition, when focusing hyperfocally, everything from 1/2 the hyperfocal distance to infinity will be acceptably sharp. "Double distance" focusing is primarily the same as shooting hyperfocally (I've been using this method for years). In this manner, I'm better able to control the composition. I simply compose the scene, check the distance of the nearest object in the frame that needs to be in focus, double that distance, then check my chart to select the aperture based on that doubled distance and lens' focal length. Of course, a lot depends on the Circle of Confusion variable that you use to set up the double distance focusing charts.
When you say the Depth of field is 1/3rd behind and 2/3rd ahead of the point of focus - does that mean the area 1/3rd behind and 2/3rd ahead will be sharp and everything else may be little out of focus? If yes, why don't we always point the focus 1/3rd into the scene?
Thanks for the advice, Ross. Wondering if you've tried the Panasonic G9. With it's high res mode, I've been getting some great landscape shots - as long as all in the frame is still. If not, one gets some weird, but "artsy," ghosting of moving objects.
You forgot to talk about focus stacking which imo is the absolute king of techniques for front to back sharpness. But, still a very well presented and informative video. Take care bud.
I enjoyed this and have a question. You say the hyperfocal distance method compromised the focus of the background, due to the formula being outdated. Are you sure it is not because you are focusing a little too close? On my Fujifilm X-T4 the hyperfocal distance is 3.62 meters, at 24mm and f/8. However, if I - mistakenly - focus at 3.5 meters (just 16 cm too close) the far limit is no longer infinity, but only 101.61 meters.
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I've tried many different settings for the Sigma f/1.8 14mm but if it's not set to infinity at the camera, everything isn't sharp at f/11. Now if we are at f/13+ we can be a bit below that and still have everything sharp but it looks nearly the same as f/11 set to infinity. Not the cameras hardware set to the maximum, just when it shows infinity at the OSD and on the lens dial window.
Ross, that was absolutely useful. As an amateur photographer, my key takeaways from this video were #1 - knowing why you dont want to set the aperture to the highest possible such as f22 and #2 - to set the camera to liveview mode so that it locks up the mirror. Thank you for those invaluable tips, I am going to always keep them in the back of my mind and use them when I take landscape photos., and hope to see my photos turn out to be much more sharper.
Some solid advice there from Ross. Didn't know about double distance focusing...a top tip!
Awesome video - landscapes are the photos I probably enjoy most looking at, but have always escaped me in how to make them more engaging. This video at least helped a lot with the technical aspects I've wrestled with.
Very nice video, NatureTTL. Thank you for sharing. Hugs from Brazil...
Thanks for the mirror lockup tip to eliminate anti-shake and also for the double focus distance- great tutorial.
I was looking to buy a book on landscape photography. Your name came up. I searched RUclips and found your video. Very informative and precise. I bought your book Landscape photography workshop and subscribed to your channel. Thank you, looking forward to watching your videos and reading your book.
Nicely done. Note that some modern mirror less lenses have no distance scale and therefore one must estimate the double distance point!
Again...thanks for taking the time to present this valuable information.
If your camera has live view and shows the three composition grid lines, simply focus at the bottom third grid line, works like a charm.
I don't know. The stuff at the top third line is not always the same relative distance depending on the angle of the camera and the subject matter. Nor is the stuff on the bottom grid line necessarily at the distance you want to focus. I'm putting the kibosh on this method.
This is pretty much the double distance focusing method that Ross mentions. As in, it is likely to fall into the same pattern.
Very "sharp" presentation, Ross! As a landscape and product photographer, image sharpness is vital to my work, and I employ most of the techniques you mention here. One other small tip might be to always use a lens hood. I've found that it maximizes overall image quality by avoiding flare, when the sun is at or near the edge of the field of view. By reducing/eliminating flare, you're also assuring that your image has the most micro-contrast possible, which in itself adds to the perception of sharpness. If you don't have a lens hood, I simply use my hand to shield any unwanted light sources, being careful to not obstruct the lens, especially when using a very wide angle lens. One more tip...If you remove any UV filter prior to the exposure, you'll also ensure the maximum sharpness that the lens is capable of. I've always used "premium" filters to protect my lens' front element, however, in some laborious testing done a while ago, I found that even the "best" filter can have a sublte, minute effect on image sharpness, ehich may not be noticeable to many, especially when the image output is online only, however, when printing very large, it can have a slightly adverse effect on sharpness. Thanks again for sharing these excellent tips!
Absolutely amazing video, and extremely helpful. Thank you
Did not know about double distance focusing method. Thank you.
Ross has such a calm demeanor. He strikes me as the kind of guy who has literally never been angry in his life (or he gets mega ragey, either or).
Not that it is relevant to this enjoyable video, but I just noticed 😅
Thanks for the video. Was shooting landscapes today myself and thinking about these things. Your video really helped me to be one step further tomorrow.
Thank you. A wonderfully informative piece of work. I don’t think there was any brand new information however, to have each one given in context makes this the best in class. There’s not a wasted moment here. Good luck with your channel.
Best 8 Minutes on this subject. Thanks.
The best thing I got from your video, all of it was very good, but the last 15 seconds really made my day. I never thought about using a loop to look at the back screen.
Probably the best video I have ever watched on this important subject. So well presented. Thank you, Ross.
I didn't know to shoot in LiveView, and the lens loop for viewing on the back of the camera. Thank you!
On a mirrorless camera, I would recommend using EFCS (or electronic first-curtain shutter) for maximum sharpness. This is more important on the high-res cameras than it is on the lower resolution cameras but it can help. This can reduce shutter shock, and some DSLRs also have EFCS as well (like the Nikon D800 series). Also make sure you turn off image stabilization (if it's built into the lens) and IBIS if you have those features since you are on a tripod. IF it's windy, I've found to maybe leave those on just in case there is slight vibration from the wind, but most of the time, I turn those features off.
Hi Ross, I dont know if you remember me, but we had a day tohether in 2016 in Cornwall. I have been searching for videos by yourself and at last found this site! Its really good to see videos by you, it reminds me of that great day we had. Still using the technics you taught me! Thanks again for the help you gave me, its paying dividend re my photography. Mike
I think one thing that's important for people to know is that they can use wide apertures like f/1.8 for landscape, as long as whatever they're photographing is 50-300ft away, depending on focal length, and will get even sharper images that way. People tend to think of wide apertures as settings you'd use for background blur, but that's only if you're focusing close. If you focus to infinite, everything after ~70ft on 28mm will be in focus at 1.8. Or everything after a few hundred ft. on 80mm+. If your subject isn't closer than that, then using a smaller aperture will only result in a less sharp image. Smaller apertures are more for landscapes when you want something really close in focus. But ~70ft at 28mm isn't really that far to get sharp focus at f/1.8. And it will be sharper than anything you can achieve at f/10 or f/16.
What a breath of fresh air; a clear, informative, interesting and very professionally presented video. Ross, your presentation abilities shine in a RUclips world of mediocrity and irrelevance (how many footpaths must I watch photographers walk until I get to a point in the video where they say something interesting about taking a photograph?). I am currently having a re-think about focus in landscape photography because of inconsistent results and I found your clear and succinct summary of the options very helpful. The double-distance technique is new to me and I will give that a try. Many Thanks.
Brilliant video! Very useful tips for a complex area in photography. This is an area which I get wrong a lot, so found this very useful 🙂
Very useful tips and very well presented video. I've learnt a few new things. Thank you
Thanks for this video with golden tips Ross. The only problem I have: how to estimate more or less exactly the distance between your lens and the focusing point in the field? It’s always guesswork for me...Thx for your reaction!
Great tips for good landscape, Thanks,
Excellent explanations and tips! You're a great presenter.
Very informative Ross. I found this video a while back but didnt get around to commenting.
The advice on the double distance focusing is wonderful. Works everytime. Thank you very much.
What a crisp image 👌brilliantly taken
I like the technical guide.
Shooting mirrorless or mirror up is helpful to remove shake for long exposures also!
Thank you Ross. Thank You very much
Great video! To check if everything is pinsharp, you use a viewing loupe, but I wonder if you zoom in at the background and check. In my case the background it's always soft, so I will try the others methods instead of hyperfocal distance.
perfect tutorial, thank you sir.
Excellent video... Might add to use mirror lock up and a remote release (or self timer) for long exposures with a DSLR or just use the remote release or self timer for your mirrorless cameras. Also, using an Arca Compatible clamp and a L-racket will help the stability of vertically composed shots because the camera is not hanging cantilevered over the side of the tripod head!
Thanks very much. Very solid advice
Very clear explanation and demonstration
Best video on the topic hands down
Great landscape focusing tip. To make sure I have a good focus for my landscapes in the future, I will be using both the double distance focusing technique you mentioned and focus stacking. I use a twist for focus stacking. I use a wide open aperture and focus on a close point of interest then focus on a distant point of interest leaving a midrange soft gap to highlight to near and far focus points.
Great overview. I had not heard of the double the closest subject distance approach. Very handy to know, thanks.
Great Video, so refreshing to hear a sensible presentation extremely articulate and no silliness or off topic. 5 star
This video is the best focus related out there, clear concise and factual. Fantastic, thank you!
Ditto.
Great video, lots of good tips. He goes right to the points without wasting time. Thanks!
An excellent and well presented tutorial. Nice one Ross!
Excellent tutorial - great tips and all well said. Thank you.
The double distance focusing is a great tip. Thanks for the info!
That was a really enjoyable tutorial, thanks for a fab upload.
....I use the depth of field electronic scale in my Fuji GFX and just choose the start and ending points... it's easy, simple and efficient!!!
Excellent video, all points are well detailed. Looking forward to your new series.
Top drawer this, thanks for sharing your knowledge Ross. Subscribed!
This is the best video I've found so far that explains how to focus your camera. Thanks!
Brilliant video, very informative I will be trying your tips on pin sharp landscapes in the Atlas Mountains this week. Thanks again can’t wait to watch the rest of your tutorials.
Very helpful video, thank you
Aye have just started doing photography and I find this very helpful and uplifting. And it gives me confident in doing so
Thank you. I found this very helpful.
Nice video. Great explanation of the 2x closest desired in-focus distance.
That said, you mention that you are keeping your D850 in liveview mode to avoid mirror slap.
To the extent the 850 works like the 800 and 750, liveview does not avoid slap (mirror pops down on shutter press so exposure meter up in the pentaprism can get a reading, pops back up, shutter actuates). I'd suggest, instead MUP mode (one press to raise mirror, the next to actuate shutter). On the 750, the 'shutter delay' set in the menu introduces a delay between mirror up and shutter actuate. As I remember, you can set between 0 (off) and 3 seconds. MUP does not work with interval shooting, but shutter delay does, so long as you take the delay into account when you are setting up intervals.
I use this for stackable star-trail-free astro shots.
Live view on the d850 uses an electronic front curtain shutter, not the mechanical shutter.
@@donaldlyons7143 Sounds like a good reason to upgrade...
Great tutorial, thank you. I know that, at least on Nikon bodies, the Self-Timer doesn't lock up the mirror prior to the exposure, but I wonder whether entering Live View when using the Timer would negate the effects of mirror-shock? Exposure Delay Mode (EDM) is another option I don't think you mentioned, whereby vibrations from both the mirror and pressing the shutter are eliminated. One can turn on yet another option when EDM is active, namely Electronic First Curtain Shutter, which eliminates vibrations from the shutter as well. Options, options!
Fantastic video! I hope you produce more videos on technique in the future. This one was brilliant.
Congrats on a wonderfully informative and well presented tutorial. I will head out today and put your advice into practice with a little more confidence.....
Great video Ross, clear and precise.
Great video and beautiful scenery! I would love to see the Photoshop workflow for how you got to the final image.
So much help, thanks.
Absolutely the best I’ve seen on the subject.
Very nice and useful discussion, although it’s not obvious why the double distance method should be better than the 1/3-2/3 method. Also, worth noting that anti-alias filters which many/most cameras have, deliberately introduce some blur. Hence the need for sharpening in post. More cameras are starting to lack the aa filter.
Hi Ross, Cant believe this video! When I had my day with you we climbed all the way up to this very spot in Boscastle. Brings back great memories of the day I spent with you. Mike
Beautiful helping tips for photography.
Very well presented and easy to follow - thankyou for taking the time to make this - subscribed
All that explanation but ended up with just another version of hyper focal distance. Nice touch!
Excellent video. I never heard of this technique. Will experiment and compare on my camera to hyper focal technique. Keep up the nice work.
Both techniques are identical. Hyperfocal theory gives the theoretical justification.
Excellent video. You gave some very good and sound advice.
Gidday Ross, 1st time to your channel, really informative and educational... i instantly subscribed and hit the notification button... i will probably binge watch all videos today, keep up the great work.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts and experience.
Hello, a question if i may, if you choose a focuspoint in the foreground, that can also influence your composition. If you focus, hold, and recompose you have a change in depth. How do you focus in the foreground and aim the lens center higher up for the desired composition?
very good tutorial video!
Really helpful video, but...where did you metre and what focus point do you use, centre/wide?
Good piece of advice. I generally stick around the f/8 to f/11 range for my landscape photos and usually no more than 2-stops from the smallest/highest aperture (ie. so I avoid f/16 and f/22). Although it's worth noting that a lot of new cameras have diffraction compensation controls which can be helpful if you have to shoot at higher f-stops (beyond f/11 let's say, although I've never shot really behond f/16 on my newer Nikon Z system so I don't know how this system impacts IQ versus turning off the feature). Of course if I'm faced with a situation where f/11 may not be sufficient (which is rare) then I'll resort to f/8 and focus stack in post for best results... its a bit more work but with PS these days, focus stacking is easy and relatively quick to do if you do it right.
The one issue I have with HF distance is that if you're off (either you miscalculate or you focus on the wrong part of your scene), it can ruin your shot or the shot is not (acceptably) sharp throughout. This is where I like either focus stacking (if I'm lazy), or the Double The Distance Method, which you mentioned, and I've been experimenting with.
Just a point, when you us stack focus and combine the pictures, you have optical sharpness through your picture, not actually what depth of field is as what is call reasonable sharpness. Also, some mirrorless cameras have quite good focus peaking, like Fujifilm’s xt3. Based on aperture, this will share a very good telling of depth of field. Oh, and if you have you camera up high on a tripod and the tripod is light weight, the wind can catch it and blow it over.
Awesome video mate. Helped me a lot today shooting in Thailand.
Excellent video...really superb. I loved his advice on choosing the best f stop..
Hi Ross, fancy you popping up on my recommended list. Nice video of the excellent practical advice we have come to expect from you.
Good video, lucid, concise, to-the-point.
By definition, when focusing hyperfocally, everything from 1/2 the hyperfocal distance to infinity will be acceptably sharp. "Double distance" focusing is primarily the same as shooting hyperfocally (I've been using this method for years). In this manner, I'm better able to control the composition. I simply compose the scene, check the distance of the nearest object in the frame that needs to be in focus, double that distance, then check my chart to select the aperture based on that doubled distance and lens' focal length. Of course, a lot depends on the Circle of Confusion variable that you use to set up the double distance focusing charts.
Excellent video. Glad I found your channel. I will be looking forward to your other videos.
Thank you for sharing!
Thank You for sharing
I would like to have seen the EVF view of your camera while you executed the double-your-distance approach ..
Nice composition.
Great tips. Thanks for sharing. Top man 👍👍👍👍👍
When you say the Depth of field is 1/3rd behind and 2/3rd ahead of the point of focus - does that mean the area 1/3rd behind and 2/3rd ahead will be sharp and everything else may be little out of focus? If yes, why don't we always point the focus 1/3rd into the scene?
Never heard of double distance focus, but I’ll give it a try. Thanks.
Wow! Amazing tips! Thanking you from the Philippines.
How important is Professional glass to focus in your opinion? I find it to be very important and basic to this element of a balanced image.
Some good tips here, I especially like your focus x2 technique.
Thanks for the advice, Ross. Wondering if you've tried the Panasonic G9. With it's high res mode, I've been getting some great landscape shots - as long as all in the frame is still. If not, one gets some weird, but "artsy," ghosting of moving objects.
You forgot to talk about focus stacking which imo is the absolute king of techniques for front to back sharpness. But, still a very well presented and informative video. Take care bud.
He did talk about focus stacking.
I enjoyed this and have a question. You say the hyperfocal distance method compromised the focus of the background, due to the formula being outdated. Are you sure it is not because you are focusing a little too close? On my Fujifilm X-T4 the hyperfocal distance is 3.62 meters, at 24mm and f/8. However, if I - mistakenly - focus at 3.5 meters (just 16 cm too close) the far limit is no longer infinity, but only 101.61 meters.
Thanks for wonderful teaching. Which shutter reales is better to purchase for Sony a 7 iii?
Very nicely described sir..Thanks a lot
Thank you for the tips, very helpful.