Thanks for putting this video up. I've just received a Kt controller and realised I'll have to do some soldering as my new controller has different connectors compared to the battery cables. The battery has bullet connectors whilst the new controller has a completely different connectors. I've just found some spare bullet connectors from an spare power cable.
Unfortunately it's normal for the connectors to be different from yours. It's called the 50 50 90 rule. If you have a 50 50 chance of getting it right, 90% of the time you'll get it wrong. 😂 It happened pretty much every time I bought new kit for my ebike. Just make sure you don't do what I did and use under rated cable for your connections. Watch this to see why not. ruclips.net/video/o89M0ywEGvU/видео.html
Hi there I have a Carrera vengeance 2000w rear hub 48v I weigh over 15 stone and my bike achieves 38mps on flat ground any ways i aim to watch more of you videos i learn by watching so fellas like you that take the time to do this stuff is very helpful for me, i can do stuff it just takes me a little longer to grasp things, so apologies for going on but I like your style thanks ✌🏻👍🏻🌟💯
Just got a Kt controller,What I did is I cut off the bullet connector of the motor phase and soldered it to the connector going to the motor from my old controller. Is that just fine or should I connect it by bullet connector? Thanks.
I always solder the phase cables.❤ I had some troubles with regular connectors on hi amp wires. They loose Connection for some reason… and started overheating. Later on on I found burned wires. Since then I solder all the hi amperage wires😊
19:27 I only watched up to that You can clearly see the phase wires are connected in the wrong order at 19:27 You've got green connected to yellow.. And the yellow connected to green.
When you buy Chinese components from different manufacturers the colours codes are meaningless. The only way to confirm the phase wires are correct is trial and error.
Why would I use a 1500W controller on a motor that has 16AWG wires for B+ and ground? I have a dozen or more motors, many of them quite old by ebike stds but a few modern types, and none of them have bigger wires. Since I live in hilly terrain, I use a 2 ohm 250 watt resistor shunt and relay for my electric brake and it works good. I use 12 awg ni-chrome wire for the brake, aka toaster oven coils
I justgot my first ebike, with a 1500watt rear hub motor, i want to use this controller!, one thought i have. Why go through the trouble of connectors? I mean, why not just solder the wires together and have quality fitting shrink wrap? i cant wait to figure out regen braking! GREAT JOB ON THE VIDEOS>>AND I LOVE YOUR BIKE!
Thanks mate 🙂 I have been known to change things around from one bike to another so connectors make sense for me. It's just to make things easier in the future. 😉
5:30 I was just thinking DOH!! And it appeared......😂😂😂😂😂 I was also thinking swap two phase wires, on the Sab if it's wrong it also does not spin swap one pair and it'll either go forward or backwards which can be changed in the software, but swapping the other two wires will also make it spin forwards again.
Since installing this controller has it improved the bike. I’ve built a bike possibly using the same kit as yours but I would like too make improvements. But I also need to fix an issue I’ve come across fault code 11 reading in too the code says it’s a issue with the screen too controller but I’m unsure how to confirm the issue with out just buying the parts
I don't know any of the fault codes but this time of year water in the works can play hell. Have you tried disconnecting everything and making sure everything is completely dry?
@@alibro7512 Ive pulled all plugs apart and made sure no moisture had got in didn’t change anything gonna have too pull things apart and look deeper. The bikes used daily in all weather I did get waterproof wiring and once a week I use a water resistant spray on the outside of the plugs new too electric bikes and in 4k miles traveled on the bike this is the first issue apart from the fact I’ve gone through 4 sets of pads 2 discs and 3 rear tyres and 2 fronts it’s been a great investment
@@alibro7512 cheers fella. It's just getting stuff to work properly with the right controller unit ie, a new throttle I bought doesn't work so I've bought a new sinewave unit for a 1500w hub with it's own display, just hope it all works.
Unless the throttle you bought was faulty or you have a fault else where it should have worked. Throttles are really simple things, you supply 5V to two leads and the third gives back a voltage usually between 0.8V to 4V when you twist it. There are a couple of ways they do this but I think they all do the same thing. Even a car accelerator pedal is the same as I had an ebike controller connected into my car EV project and used it to move the car in and out of the garage.
I heard that a sine wave controller is less efficient than a square wave controller. Have you tested this controller for efficiency and power loss? Did you notice less distance traveled with the sine wave controller than with the square one?
I'm not sure how that could be true as using a Sine wave to control the motor is smoother and quieter therefore should be much more efficient but I'm no expert so don't quote me. I have a large battery on my bike and don't use it regularly so never tested the difference.
My controller that came with a 1000w motor kit, reads “current 26A” Its not stated if that’s peak or continuous amps. I’m Interested in another controller, rated 20a and peak of 40a. Not sure if that would be less amp flow or more then the current controller I have. Thanks
Most controllers can handle Voltages up to 14S or 52V nominal so increasing the battery voltage will improve performance as the current stays the same. I believe they mostly quote the continuous current but don't quote me on that. If you have a clamp meter that can read DC like this one amzn.to/3ICtIFs you can clamp it around one of the battery leads to check what it is really drawing from your battery. If you decide to go ahead and replace it then be sure to buy a SINE wave controller, maybe something like this one ebay.us/kGcnVC. They are so much smoother you won't believe it and in theory more efficient so better range.
The three phase wires carry the ac current from the controller to the motor to drive the motor. The HALL sensor wires tell the controller the position of the motor. You need them all connected for it to work.
@@alibro7512i have a Sparta ion rx plus that i want to convert to a KT-controller, but i only have 3 phase wires coming out of the motor. It's a direct-drive motor with 24 magnets. I am told. Regards
@@user-2uf2kr2c There are sine wave controllers that will work without hall sensors but I believe in that situation they revert to being square wave. I don't know of a sine wave controller that will work as sine wave without hall sensors.
Can you hook the sinewave controller up with the pass sensor or with hall sensor? Regards. And is there a noticeable difference between those 2 in power noice etc? Regards
@@user-2uf2kr2c LOL, that's PAS then, not pass. 🤣Like I said, it's been a while since I looked at this stuff. I still don't understand what you are asking as PAS and HALL are not related. KT controllers need HALL sensors to see the position of the motor magnets in relation to the coils. PAS is telling the controller what you are doing with the pedals but you don't need PAS for it to work.
@@alibro7512 i have a Sparta(Dutch) ebike with only 3 phase wires on the motor wheel. So no hall. I want to connect a KT-controller square wave controller to it. Also with a pas sensor. Regards
If you don't have hall sensors I don't see the point of paying extra for a KT controller that probably won't work. Buy a cheap Chinese controller from ebay or aliexpress and it should do the job.
Always follow these rules: Power law: A * V =P A= ampere( controller’ Maximum peak current) 22,17,30,35,45.. etc V =voltage (battery voltage) P= power ( watts) P =Your motor is 1000watt V= Your battery is 48 volts(for example) I= 45 ampere controller Let’s calculate: Assuming your battery is 48v I*v=p 45A * 48V = 2160 watt Is what you get by using such controller. It’s common practice to boost nominal power twice of it’s original Your motor can give you 2000 watts But you need more current. But remember, don’t go further that *2 twice of your original nominal Power. As you can see, by using this controller you can get 45A * 48V = 2160 watt which is twice powerful than your starting point.(1000watt) This controller has kt lcd3 display. There is a manual in English for this controller where you can limit the current of this controller to be 50% or a bit bigger than that. Remember you can boost any motor 2 times of its original power by using this formula I*v=
Hi can you show the pcb (inside the controller) ? I want to buy this but I have to make sure that I can upgrade the mosfets And also show the capacitor please
@@bingosunnoon9341 The caps and mosfets are the main restriction on voltage so with them upgraded you can use a higher voltage battery. It says so in the internet so it must be true.
You don't mention where you are but here are a few links. They change the models over time but hopefully you can find the right one. eBay UK ebay.us/kGcnVC eBay.com ebay.us/g8coWZ Amazon UK amzn.to/3iv9H8j Amazon.com amzn.to/3wyKGRO Aliexpress s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_AdA6eZ
I don't think so. The on/off and controller is part of the display so I don't know how you would control it without. I may be wrong but it would be of very limited use.
@@aldisgarais It has regen braking if you roll off the throttle slowly. Also if you are using cruise control it will hold you back when going down hill trying to keep you at the speed set by the cruise control. Electronical brakes would be really cool tho.
My e-bike kt 25amper display lcdkt 03 pas 12 magneti top top top top battery 48 volt 20smper top top top Speed max ado A20 fat 500watt 54.4 kmh gps really top top top ado e-bike 500watt top Speed 54.5 kmh gps
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for putting this video up. I've just received a Kt controller and realised I'll have to do some soldering as my new controller has different connectors compared to the battery cables. The battery has bullet connectors whilst the new controller has a completely different connectors. I've just found some spare bullet connectors from an spare power cable.
Unfortunately it's normal for the connectors to be different from yours. It's called the 50 50 90 rule. If you have a 50 50 chance of getting it right, 90% of the time you'll get it wrong. 😂
It happened pretty much every time I bought new kit for my ebike.
Just make sure you don't do what I did and use under rated cable for your connections. Watch this to see why not.
ruclips.net/video/o89M0ywEGvU/видео.html
@@alibro7512 🤣
Hi there I have a Carrera vengeance 2000w rear hub 48v I weigh over 15 stone and my bike achieves 38mps on flat ground any ways i aim to watch more of you videos i learn by watching so fellas like you that take the time to do this stuff is very helpful for me, i can do stuff it just takes me a little longer to grasp things, so apologies for going on but I like your style thanks ✌🏻👍🏻🌟💯
Thanks
Just got a Kt controller,What I did is I cut off the bullet connector of the motor phase and soldered it to the connector going to the motor from my old controller.
Is that just fine or should I connect it by bullet connector?
Thanks.
So long as the connectors you are using can handle the current your fine. If you soldered directly then it is probably even better.
I always solder the phase cables.❤ I had some troubles with regular connectors on hi amp wires. They loose Connection for some reason… and started overheating. Later on on I found burned wires. Since then I solder all the hi amperage wires😊
19:27
I only watched up to that
You can clearly see the phase wires are connected in the wrong order at 19:27
You've got green connected to yellow..
And the yellow connected to green.
When you buy Chinese components from different manufacturers the colours codes are meaningless. The only way to confirm the phase wires are correct is trial and error.
Why would I use a 1500W controller on a motor that has 16AWG wires for B+ and ground? I have a dozen or more motors, many of them quite old by ebike stds but a few modern types, and none of them have bigger wires. Since I live in hilly terrain, I use a 2 ohm 250 watt resistor shunt and relay for my electric brake and it works good. I use 12 awg ni-chrome wire for the brake, aka toaster oven coils
😂😂😂😂 I had nightmares when nothing happened. Because I’ve just ordered the same controller:-)))))
I justgot my first ebike, with a 1500watt rear hub motor, i want to use this controller!, one thought i have. Why go through the trouble of connectors? I mean, why not just solder the wires together and have quality fitting shrink wrap? i cant wait to figure out regen braking!
GREAT JOB ON THE VIDEOS>>AND I LOVE YOUR BIKE!
Thanks mate 🙂
I have been known to change things around from one bike to another so connectors make sense for me.
It's just to make things easier in the future. 😉
5:30 I was just thinking DOH!! And it appeared......😂😂😂😂😂
I was also thinking swap two phase wires, on the Sab if it's wrong it also does not spin swap one pair and it'll either go forward or backwards which can be changed in the software, but swapping the other two wires will also make it spin forwards again.
Once an idiot, ALWAYS an idiot. 😂
@@alibro7512 Nope, I had a KT before the Sab, I had two actually, and the phase colours were never the same as the motors.... Not your fault...
Since installing this controller has it improved the bike. I’ve built a bike possibly using the same kit as yours but I would like too make improvements. But I also need to fix an issue I’ve come across fault code 11 reading in too the code says it’s a issue with the screen too controller but I’m unsure how to confirm the issue with out just buying the parts
I don't know any of the fault codes but this time of year water in the works can play hell. Have you tried disconnecting everything and making sure everything is completely dry?
@@alibro7512 Ive pulled all plugs apart and made sure no moisture had got in didn’t change anything gonna have too pull things apart and look deeper. The bikes used daily in all weather I did get waterproof wiring and once a week I use a water resistant spray on the outside of the plugs new too electric bikes and in 4k miles traveled on the bike this is the first issue apart from the fact I’ve gone through 4 sets of pads 2 discs and 3 rear tyres and 2 fronts it’s been a great investment
A good question would be :are thay both brushless controllers?
This controller is for an ebike hub motor so yes they are for brushless motors.
@@alibro7512 cheers fella.
It's just getting stuff to work properly with the right controller unit ie, a new throttle I bought doesn't work so I've bought a new sinewave unit for a 1500w hub with it's own display, just hope it all works.
Unless the throttle you bought was faulty or you have a fault else where it should have worked. Throttles are really simple things, you supply 5V to two leads and the third gives back a voltage usually between 0.8V to 4V when you twist it. There are a couple of ways they do this but I think they all do the same thing. Even a car accelerator pedal is the same as I had an ebike controller connected into my car EV project and used it to move the car in and out of the garage.
Is there any pas sensor that could work with the kt controller (it has to be a magnet ring and a sensor with cable)
You can normally order a PAS sensor along with the controller.
I heard that a sine wave controller is less efficient than a square wave controller. Have you tested this controller for efficiency and power loss?
Did you notice less distance traveled with the sine wave controller than with the square one?
I'm not sure how that could be true as using a Sine wave to control the motor is smoother and quieter therefore should be much more efficient but I'm no expert so don't quote me.
I have a large battery on my bike and don't use it regularly so never tested the difference.
Where did you find the plastic connector for the phase wires? Or did did you 3d print it?
ebay or aliexpress. I can't remember which but they are very common.
Hello, i see that the sinewave controller has an "S" in the modelnumber. Does the squarewave has a "Z" in the modelnumber? Regards
Sorry no idea
My controller that came with a 1000w motor kit, reads “current 26A” Its not stated if that’s peak or continuous amps. I’m Interested in another controller, rated 20a and peak of 40a. Not sure if that would be less amp flow or more then the current controller I have. Thanks
Most controllers can handle Voltages up to 14S or 52V nominal so increasing the battery voltage will improve performance as the current stays the same. I believe they mostly quote the continuous current but don't quote me on that. If you have a clamp meter that can read DC like this one amzn.to/3ICtIFs you can clamp it around one of the battery leads to check what it is really drawing from your battery.
If you decide to go ahead and replace it then be sure to buy a SINE wave controller, maybe something like this one ebay.us/kGcnVC. They are so much smoother you won't believe it and in theory more efficient so better range.
@@alibro7512 Thanks for the advice.
Hello, and did you connect the motor through the 3 fase wires or the hall sensor wires? Regards
The three phase wires carry the ac current from the controller to the motor to drive the motor.
The HALL sensor wires tell the controller the position of the motor.
You need them all connected for it to work.
@@alibro7512i have a Sparta ion rx plus that i want to convert to a KT-controller, but i only have 3 phase wires coming out of the motor. It's a direct-drive motor with 24 magnets. I am told. Regards
@@user-2uf2kr2c There are sine wave controllers that will work without hall sensors but I believe in that situation they revert to being square wave. I don't know of a sine wave controller that will work as sine wave without hall sensors.
@@alibro7512 so sinewave controllers need hall sensors to work as sonewave? Is that what you're saying? Regards
@@user-2uf2kr2c As far as I am aware yes.
Apparently you can use open source firmware and get field weakening.....nice bonus
I'm aware of the Open Source software but haven't looked into it yet.
Maybe a topic for another video, Thanks.
Can you hook the sinewave controller up with the pass sensor or with hall sensor? Regards. And is there a noticeable difference between those 2 in power noice etc? Regards
Sorry I'm not sure what a pass sensor is. It's been a couple of years since I looked at this.
@@alibro7512 pedal assist. it's put on the crank. Regards
@@user-2uf2kr2c LOL, that's PAS then, not pass. 🤣Like I said, it's been a while since I looked at this stuff.
I still don't understand what you are asking as PAS and HALL are not related. KT controllers need HALL sensors to see the position of the motor magnets in relation to the coils. PAS is telling the controller what you are doing with the pedals but you don't need PAS for it to work.
@@alibro7512 i have a Sparta(Dutch) ebike with only 3 phase wires on the motor wheel. So no hall. I want to connect a KT-controller square wave controller to it. Also with a pas sensor. Regards
If you don't have hall sensors I don't see the point of paying extra for a KT controller that probably won't work.
Buy a cheap Chinese controller from ebay or aliexpress and it should do the job.
Can i use a controller like this for 1000W direct drive hub motor
Yes it should be fine. I've heard of people using 3000W controllers with 1000W Motors with only small modifications
Always follow these rules:
Power law:
A * V =P
A= ampere( controller’ Maximum peak current) 22,17,30,35,45.. etc
V =voltage (battery voltage)
P= power ( watts)
P =Your motor is 1000watt
V= Your battery is 48 volts(for example)
I= 45 ampere controller
Let’s calculate:
Assuming your battery is 48v
I*v=p
45A * 48V = 2160 watt
Is what you get by using such controller.
It’s common practice to boost nominal power twice of it’s original
Your motor can give you 2000 watts
But you need more current.
But remember, don’t go further that *2 twice of your original nominal Power. As you can see, by using this controller you can get
45A * 48V = 2160 watt which is twice powerful than your starting point.(1000watt)
This controller has kt lcd3 display.
There is a manual in English for this controller where you can limit the current of this controller to be 50% or a bit bigger than that.
Remember you can boost any motor 2 times of its original power by using this formula I*v=
Did you have to download software to set it up?
No, these come with a manual explaining how to set them up.
Hi can you show the pcb (inside the controller) ?
I want to buy this but I have to make sure that I can upgrade the mosfets
And also show the capacitor please
Sorry, it is installed in the bike now. I should have opened it and taken photos before installing but didn't. 🤔
Upgrade the mosfets? How, pray tell, will you do that? Everything in the controller is rated at the same voltage.
@@bingosunnoon9341 The caps and mosfets are the main restriction on voltage so with them upgraded you can use a higher voltage battery.
It says so in the internet so it must be true.
i need to replace this controller (same model) can you send the link were it was purchased please
my thanks in advance
You don't mention where you are but here are a few links. They change the models over time but hopefully you can find the right one.
eBay UK ebay.us/kGcnVC
eBay.com ebay.us/g8coWZ
Amazon UK amzn.to/3iv9H8j
Amazon.com amzn.to/3wyKGRO
Aliexpress s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_AdA6eZ
I was of the impression that these hub motors were DC motors !
They are three phase AC motors with permanent magnets however the controller gets it's power from a DC battery.
Aliexpress always says ..."cannot deliver to the UK" !?!
That's odd, I've never had an issue.
Will this controller run without the PAS connected?
Yes, I still haven't installed PAS myself.
@@alibro7512 Thank you!
Can this controller run without the display?
I don't think so. The on/off and controller is part of the display so I don't know how you would control it without.
I may be wrong but it would be of very limited use.
And has it electronical brakes?
@@aldisgarais It has regen braking if you roll off the throttle slowly. Also if you are using cruise control it will hold you back when going down hill trying to keep you at the speed set by the cruise control.
Electronical brakes would be really cool tho.
Might look better and last longer with a couple rolls of real carbon fiber tape around everything and and a double layer by power wheel
My e-bike kt 25amper display lcdkt 03 pas 12 magneti top top top top battery 48 volt 20smper top top top Speed max ado A20 fat 500watt 54.4 kmh gps really top top top ado e-bike 500watt top Speed 54.5 kmh gps