Thanks for this test! I noticed that Aliexpress has a dealer who sells two versions of the module, black and red. Looks like the black one maybe has some upgrades, not positive though. I’m glad to find from this video that the red version you have at least handles 3A ok. 👍
I always use the 1/3 Amperage principle to protect the circuit from voltage and amperage drift. Plus overheating. At 5 Amps maximum rating according to the datasheets, that calculates to 1.666 amps continuous voltage and amperage output without drift. It has worked for me for 25 years without any problems. It lets me sleep at night. LOL
@@Electronic_For_You I fully agree. I ran winter cold and heat tests. With my 1/3 amperage principle the circuit performed perfectly right in front of my video camera. I used a 7 segment four digit red LED display temperature gauge module with each test. Thank you for your comment.
While that can make sense for these extremely economized generic Chinese designs, it is hardly necessary and quite wasteful for just about everything else. For example, do you think your laptop charger only operates at 1/3 rating? How about your TV or anything else professionally made? I only mention these things because you stated that has worked for you for 25 years and nobody had these modules nearly that long ago, and nobody in their right mind would pay for an overkill design with a margin of 3:1 unless it was an industrial build that was very expensive. A good design does not need that margin, using quality parts and accounting for things like heat, you should easily be able to design for 70% if not higher, aka 7/10 in your terminology. Remember that typically, the amperage ratings are based on some temperature anyway so if you control the temp, the margins increase, or vice versa on these little chinese generic boards with minimal heatsink path, the margin reduces. XL4015 is not at all needing to be limited to 1/3 the amp rating if heatsunk properly for that.
@@stinkycheese804Let me inform you that the data sheets tell you a particular component is tested at 25 Degree C. I designed extra safety margins in all of my industrial products because some are used in hot environments. IE: 4635 Xerox printing machines (Fuser area). Some of my products are used in the deserts as well. Why do I have to explain all of this to you? I’m wasting my time.
Mantap..... Saya pux trafo 5 A CT di buat charger aki.saya pasang di 32 volt dg di tambah elco jdx 37 volt dg di pasang modul penurun tegangan XL 4015 terus di coba ke aki tdk xmpe' 10 menit trafox panas & bau hangus,trus saya pindah teganganx 25 volt + elco jd 30 vokt panas & bau hangusx mendingan trus saya coba lg turunkn ke 18 volt di tmbah elco jd 21 volt akhirx trafox aman² aZ g panas & g bau hangus.kira² apax yg rusak bang,,??tank
If you can't DIY, you really shouldn't be doing projects that have 50V because that's getting near enough to cause bodily harm, or of course start fires at that current without even tripping an overcurrent protection. Should we assume this is for a scooter/ebike/etc battery? You should just buy a ready made charger.
When you increase or decrease the output current, did the input current also changes??? Because the rule is... Input power equals output power plus heat loss.
Nice video, I have some questions questions: 1. I read it somewhere in online shop description that if the ground beetwen the input and output is connected, the current adjustment wouldn't work, is that true? 2. I don't need the current adjustment, I only need the voltage step down, let the current adjust itself according to the load need of current. How can I do that? Thank you
Yes its true because there is a current shunt at ground input and ground output if you short input ground and output ground then current cannot be adjusted!
@@Electronic_For_You Ooo but if I don't need the current to be adjusted, would it work just fine if the ground Input and ground Output are connected? Thanks
I used to cgarge lion battery but this board damaged i dont know the reasson Now i buy once more and connected via Mini MP1584 DC-DC 3A Adjustable module Is it my board safe?
I use 12v power supply. I set cv to 5v but I can't get cc over ~ 1.70 amp. Also if I measure output volt and amp the same time using 2 set probes.(LED volt meter and Multimeter in amp mode) It show amp value but not LED volt meter show nothing. Is my xl4015 broken?
There are variations on this module and it depends on which capacitors are installed. On those with 25V output caps, the output limit is 25V. Most have a higher input cap voltage but if those are also 25V then input is also llimited to 25V. Similarly if you have 35V rated input or output caps then that respective input or output has a 35V limit except that the XL4015 itself, has a 32V output limit, and a 36V input limit even if you had 50V rated capacitors which some identical (otherwise) looking specimens of this PCB do. Always read the datasheet and understand the circuit operation before throwing something together with poorly documented generic chinese circuits.
One thing I'm really confused is... I kept the output voltage at sat 12V, if I increase the output current, will the input current also increases?? Please explain what's the relation between input current and output current? In fact, I will get the same output current under same output voltage for different input voltages with varying input currents??? Please help me understand with a new video.
There will be less input current , for example if you input 24V and output 12V , then the Input current will be 2A 24V and output current 12V 4A , of course it's adjustable
Please reply bro can i charge 12.6v 10 ampere 3s litium battery and what is maximum input current can i use 24v 3amp 72watt power supply input and get 12.6v 3amp output for charge 120 watt 3s5P litium battery
@@Electronic_For_You bro I have made attempt to charge 12.6v 56wh battery with this buck converter I input 24v 2a delta tech dc ite power supply in input and configure 12.58v output and ampere pot is not working well but I checked it's 0.79 to 0.90 ampere take it to charge battery is almost 12.33 v charge after this xl4015e buck converter is too heated up and automatic blue light blinking is off and not charging battery After an hour when buck converter is cool down I tried again to charge but blue light is not blinking and my battery charged only 12.33v not full to 12.6v so tried to check fault I tried 18650 3.7v single cell with tp4056 charging module it charged battery only 4.11 and sometimes 4.08 volt and auto cut off blue light is blinked it means battery fully charged but battery full voltage is 4.2v nears and I charged 4.11v so I want to said please make new video on it I think my 3s litium battery is 4.11x3 =12.33 is fully charged I checked volt in bms from 0v to 12.6v written on bms and voltage is 12.33 voltage and also check output and input positive and negative in bms but bms show only 11.97 volt😂 so i want some explanation please make new video on it and if my 3s litium battery is fully charged why green led is not blink I confused 😅 please reply I am using this battery in my Bluetooth speaker
Set voltage to 12.65V and Set The Current limit to 3Amps , use multimeter and set to 10A mode , short output with multimeter probes and rotate Constant Current potentiometer
ok i understand, but i want to know is it compatible with this module? how will it works good or bad? because it gets hot. so it will work or not. @@Electronic_For_You
@@techikbal That depends on how hot it gets and how much ripple you can tolerate. Generally, the higher your input voltage above the 12.6V output, the less efficient and hotter it will get, so consider that and what your input voltage is. If you cannot change your input voltage then it is possible you need a different design that at least heatsinks the buck regulator IC with a proper discrete piece of aluminum instead of just soldered to the PCB. Another option common with SMPS circuits that run hot is point a fan at it and remeasure temperature. If that is enough cooling, put a fan in the enclosure with it, assuring ample intake and exhaust airflow area. Frankly at that load, it would be cheaper and easier to just get a different chinese generic module rated for higher current. Plus since your battery is probably worth some money, it would be good to pick a more robust charge regulator setup to ensure longer term clean power to not risk damaging it.
What are you trying to ask? There is no such thing as a required 2A load for doing that. Are you stating that your solar array can generate at least 14V at 2A? If so, then yes this could be set to 2A output and charge it, but only if the solar array can keep the voltage at 14V input since the drop across it, plus the charging voltage needed, is higher than the nominal 12V battery rating, assuming a typical battery rating system that just rounds off to 12V rather than series sum of all cells in the battery at top charge level.
why when i am adjusting the board, and short circuit the output, the board will become very hot, and my multimeter wire become very hot also, is it normal?
the ic and board bcm quite hot actually, and when i am adjusting the current. The current wont have any changes, it keep remain 3.99A shown in multimeter. i had follow wha u did, change the multimeter to 10A mode, and short circuit the output with multimeter without connect to any load.
I'm saying did you tried load? Try using a 20W lightbulb from a car or something similar and try to adjust the current and see if you see some changes if not than your module is bad
To inform those who are interested as to why I use the 1/3 principle, is mostly due to hot industrial environments. If you study many data sheets like I do, most components are tested at 25 Degrees C. Using a safety margin of 1/3 guarantees no overheating of microcontrollers or standard solid-state components. I can rest easy at night knowing that the electronic products that I design are going to go to survive for many years. Elevated temperatures can accelerate the aging of electrical components and induce thermal stress, resulting in equipment damage and a reduced lifespan. But its fine if you think its a waste to use the 1/3 principle. Do it your way. I’m not forcing anyone to do it my way. To inform those who are interested as to why I use the 1/3 principle, is mostly due to hot industrial environments. If you study many data sheets like I do, most components are tested at 25 Degrees C. Using a safety margin of 1/3 guarantees no overheating of microcontrollers or standard solid-state components. I can rest easy at night knowing that the electronics products that I design are going to go into overheating failure. Elevated temperatures can accelerate the aging of electrical components and induce thermal stress, resulting in equipment damage and a reduced lifespan. Extreme heat can lead to physical damage to your devices. Parts might melt or warp, connections could break, and batteries might expand to the point where they crack the device's casing. Screen Damage: Excessive heat can also negatively affect your device's screen. But its fine if you think its a waste to use the 1/3 principle. Do it your way. I’m not forcing anyone to do it my way.
@@Electronic_For_You thank you so much bruh, i buy the multi cell module the function is 2s,3s,4s, and i have 3s 7p, but that module multi cell can't not fully charge my battery pack the out of multi cell module is 13volts somthing when i using the red led is turn on when it fully charge the blue led is turn on, but when i check it to my multi tester i got 12.0 reading so it mean's my battery pack not fully charge that's why i ask you if this buck converter can use for.charging thank you bruh
I won't be make a light Lithium phosphate battery 13 volt 18ah and led output 9 volt 2 amp which buck converter I am using without any heating issue please inform me engineer.
@@Electronic_For_You i have a this module only XL4015 buck converter Please tell how to increase ampere I checked but not increasing amper please 🙏🙏 tell bro
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Great explanation on converter...thanks for sharing have a great day 👍 😀
😊 Thanks for watching
Thanks for this test! I noticed that Aliexpress has a dealer who sells two versions of the module, black and red. Looks like the black one maybe has some upgrades, not positive though. I’m glad to find from this video that the red version you have at least handles 3A ok. 👍
You are welcome 😊
I always use the 1/3 Amperage principle to protect the circuit from voltage and amperage drift. Plus overheating. At 5 Amps maximum rating according to the datasheets, that calculates to 1.666 amps continuous voltage and amperage output without drift. It has worked for me for 25 years without any problems. It lets me sleep at night. LOL
It's a very good converter for it's price
@@Electronic_For_You I fully agree. I ran winter cold and heat tests. With my 1/3 amperage principle the circuit performed perfectly right in front of my video camera. I used a 7 segment four digit red LED display temperature gauge module with each test. Thank you for your comment.
You are welcome
While that can make sense for these extremely economized generic Chinese designs, it is hardly necessary and quite wasteful for just about everything else. For example, do you think your laptop charger only operates at 1/3 rating? How about your TV or anything else professionally made? I only mention these things because you stated that has worked for you for 25 years and nobody had these modules nearly that long ago, and nobody in their right mind would pay for an overkill design with a margin of 3:1 unless it was an industrial build that was very expensive.
A good design does not need that margin, using quality parts and accounting for things like heat, you should easily be able to design for 70% if not higher, aka 7/10 in your terminology. Remember that typically, the amperage ratings are based on some temperature anyway so if you control the temp, the margins increase, or vice versa on these little chinese generic boards with minimal heatsink path, the margin reduces. XL4015 is not at all needing to be limited to 1/3 the amp rating if heatsunk properly for that.
@@stinkycheese804Let me inform you that the data sheets tell you a particular component is tested at 25 Degree C. I designed extra safety margins in all of my industrial products because some are used in hot environments. IE: 4635 Xerox printing machines (Fuser area). Some of my products are used in the deserts as well. Why do I have to explain all of this to you? I’m wasting my time.
Mantap.....
Saya pux trafo 5 A CT di buat charger aki.saya pasang di 32 volt dg di tambah elco jdx 37 volt dg di pasang modul penurun tegangan XL 4015 terus di coba ke aki tdk xmpe' 10 menit trafox panas & bau hangus,trus saya pindah teganganx 25 volt + elco jd 30 vokt panas & bau hangusx mendingan trus saya coba lg turunkn ke 18 volt di tmbah elco jd 21 volt akhirx trafox aman² aZ g panas & g bau hangus.kira² apax yg rusak bang,,??tank
Your thumbnail has the pots labeled incorrectly. The voltage control is the one nearest to the XL4015.
That was a very old video, thanks for noticing ❤️
I’m using the same buck converter but when I’m checking the amps the led indicator turns off. What am I doing wrong?
Hello, I think you are taking too much current from the output, and make sure you give input to (input) terminals
@@Electronic_For_You can i use this module for lifep04 charger i have 12v 3 amp charger
Yes
Can it run 775 motor
Yeas
Please, engineer, can you help me make a circuit that controls 50 volts and 20 amps
Ok i will try 😊
@@Electronic_For_You Notify me here when you're ready send me the link
If you can't DIY, you really shouldn't be doing projects that have 50V because that's getting near enough to cause bodily harm, or of course start fires at that current without even tripping an overcurrent protection. Should we assume this is for a scooter/ebike/etc battery? You should just buy a ready made charger.
@@stinkycheese804oh man😅 20A @ 50V + lipo batteries =😳😬
1000W 💀
Sir mereko 12 v 23 amper battery ko 5 volt 23 amper me convert krna hai .....kon sa module use kru... ? 😢
SZBK07 module
hey does testing the max current put you multimeter at risk?
If your multimeter is 10A you can test maximum 8A , this thing can output maximum 5A so no problem
When you increase or decrease the output current, did the input current also changes???
Because the rule is...
Input power equals output power plus heat loss.
Yes it changes
It only changes if the load you power, was exceeding your current limit at the set voltage. If it is not, then the input current will stay the same.
Nice video, I have some questions questions:
1. I read it somewhere in online shop description that if the ground beetwen the input and output is connected, the current adjustment wouldn't work, is that true?
2. I don't need the current adjustment, I only need the voltage step down, let the current adjust itself according to the load need of current. How can I do that?
Thank you
Increase current at maximum, then load will take current as much it wants
@@Electronic_For_You ok mate thanks
Yes its true because there is a current shunt at ground input and ground output if you short input ground and output ground then current cannot be adjusted!
@@Electronic_For_You Ooo but if I don't need the current to be adjusted, would it work just fine if the ground Input and ground Output are connected? Thanks
I don't recommend connecting them together!
I used to cgarge lion battery but this board damaged i dont know the reasson
Now i buy once more and connected via Mini MP1584 DC-DC 3A Adjustable module
Is it my board safe?
What is input voltage and output voltage you used?
Boa tarde parabens muito bom excelente
I use 12v power supply. I set cv to 5v but I can't get cc over ~ 1.70 amp.
Also if I measure output volt and amp the same time using 2 set probes.(LED volt meter and Multimeter in amp mode)
It show amp value but not LED volt meter show nothing.
Is my xl4015 broken?
Is your input voltage still 12V ?
@@Electronic_For_You yes input is 12v. output is 5v
Very good nice 👍
😊
In this setup what is your input voltage?
24V
Hi. Can you tell me if you are using the red lead going to 10A on multimeter to check current?
Thanks
I think you are referring to the constant current led?
It will glow red if the current is limited by potentiometer ,
@@Electronic_For_You No, I just want to know how you hook up the multimeter. black lead = Com / Red = 10A ? Is this correct? Thanks
Red lead = load = +output
@@Electronic_For_You lol, I'm talking about the other end of the wire. Because you can't see it in the video, it is off screen
It is connected to - output
Can i use this and connect my smps 12v 5a to this converter to power Raspberry pi 4 with 5v-5.25v and >3amp
Possible
Maximum voltage?
30V recommend
@@Electronic_For_You
Thanks 👍
There are variations on this module and it depends on which capacitors are installed. On those with 25V output caps, the output limit is 25V. Most have a higher input cap voltage but if those are also 25V then input is also llimited to 25V. Similarly if you have 35V rated input or output caps then that respective input or output has a 35V limit except that the XL4015 itself, has a 32V output limit, and a 36V input limit even if you had 50V rated capacitors which some identical (otherwise) looking specimens of this PCB do.
Always read the datasheet and understand the circuit operation before throwing something together with poorly documented generic chinese circuits.
İnput 14v output 5v 3.5A stabil. no problem but temperature high. 14v input 5v output 2.5A temperature normal
3.5Ampa too high. , use 3Amps
Does it auto cut the charge when battery is full?
Yes you have to set current
One thing I'm really confused is...
I kept the output voltage at sat 12V, if I increase the output current, will the input current also increases??
Please explain what's the relation between input current and output current?
In fact, I will get the same output current under same output voltage for different input voltages with varying input currents???
Please help me understand with a new video.
There will be less input current , for example if you input 24V and output 12V , then the Input current will be 2A 24V and output current 12V 4A , of course it's adjustable
@@Electronic_For_You sir please kindly check your fb ... I already DM you...
Please ask me anything here ,
Do not contact me in personal!
@@Electronic_For_You sir it's very very difficult to explain here. I will send the diagram/project and explain my question to you.
@@Electronic_For_You sir please tell me a mini solar controller or charger which has a constant output 6V and maximum 2.5 amps of current??
Can anything be added between the two holes next to the input terminal block? or what is it for?
Input, output clips
@@Electronic_For_You I know this but how can I show you with photos? Do you have a Facebook group or page?
These 2 holes are connected to pin 4 of ic , it's for measuring the internal voltage regulator, not useful for anything, it's for factory testing !
You can solder wires to those holes. It's bit better connection but needs soldering iron.
Please reply bro can i charge 12.6v 10 ampere 3s litium battery and what is maximum input current can i use 24v 3amp 72watt power supply input and get 12.6v 3amp output for charge 120 watt 3s5P litium battery
Yes you can take 12.6V and 3 Amps
@@Electronic_For_You bro I have made attempt to charge 12.6v 56wh battery with this buck converter I input 24v 2a delta tech dc ite power supply in input and configure 12.58v output and ampere pot is not working well but I checked it's 0.79 to 0.90 ampere take it to charge battery is almost 12.33 v charge after this xl4015e buck converter is too heated up and automatic blue light blinking is off and not charging battery
After an hour when buck converter is cool down I tried again to charge but blue light is not blinking and my battery charged only 12.33v not full to 12.6v so tried to check fault I tried 18650 3.7v single cell with tp4056 charging module it charged battery only 4.11 and sometimes 4.08 volt and auto cut off blue light is blinked it means battery fully charged but battery full voltage is 4.2v nears and I charged 4.11v so I want to said please make new video on it I think my 3s litium battery is 4.11x3 =12.33 is fully charged I checked volt in bms from 0v to 12.6v written on bms and voltage is 12.33 voltage and also check output and input positive and negative in bms but bms show only 11.97 volt😂 so i want some explanation please make new video on it and if my 3s litium battery is fully charged why green led is not blink I confused 😅 please reply I am using this battery in my Bluetooth speaker
Ok I will make a video on it , and see if I can charge the battery or not 👍
Iss xl4015 module battery ko over charge kareta hai kya
No
It has a current limit, and over charge option
Hello sir Aap iss xl4015e1 module me input kitna volt or amp kitna dya tha
Maximum 32V 5A
@@Electronic_For_You hum iss module me 24v 3amp da sakte hai heating problem to nhi hoga na
No problem
How will it work at 12.6 volt to charge at 3a for lithium polymer, 30000amh battery?
Set voltage to 12.65V and Set The Current limit to 3Amps , use multimeter and set to 10A mode , short output with multimeter probes and rotate Constant Current potentiometer
ok i understand, but i want to know is it compatible with this module? how will it works good or bad? because it gets hot. so it will work or not.
@@Electronic_For_You
I don't think it will get hot at 3Amps , and it works well if you set everything correctly
okay. thank you.@@Electronic_For_You
@@techikbal That depends on how hot it gets and how much ripple you can tolerate. Generally, the higher your input voltage above the 12.6V output, the less efficient and hotter it will get, so consider that and what your input voltage is. If you cannot change your input voltage then it is possible you need a different design that at least heatsinks the buck regulator IC with a proper discrete piece of aluminum instead of just soldered to the PCB.
Another option common with SMPS circuits that run hot is point a fan at it and remeasure temperature. If that is enough cooling, put a fan in the enclosure with it, assuring ample intake and exhaust airflow area. Frankly at that load, it would be cheaper and easier to just get a different chinese generic module rated for higher current. Plus since your battery is probably worth some money, it would be good to pick a more robust charge regulator setup to ensure longer term clean power to not risk damaging it.
Dobra robota
Thanks 😊
Can this module charge 12v 12Ah battery from solor ?
2A load ?
Yeas
What are you trying to ask? There is no such thing as a required 2A load for doing that. Are you stating that your solar array can generate at least 14V at 2A? If so, then yes this could be set to 2A output and charge it, but only if the solar array can keep the voltage at 14V input since the drop across it, plus the charging voltage needed, is higher than the nominal 12V battery rating, assuming a typical battery rating system that just rounds off to 12V rather than series sum of all cells in the battery at top charge level.
why when i am adjusting the board, and short circuit the output, the board will become very hot, and my multimeter wire become very hot also, is it normal?
Is the ic hot?
If ic is not hot then its normal to your multimeter Wire gets hot
the ic and board bcm quite hot actually, and when i am adjusting the current. The current wont have any changes, it keep remain 3.99A shown in multimeter. i had follow wha u did, change the multimeter to 10A mode, and short circuit the output with multimeter without connect to any load.
Did you try any load and adjusted current?
and when i turn the current potentiometer until one limit, the red led will turn off.
I'm saying did you tried load?
Try using a 20W lightbulb from a car or something similar and try to adjust the current and see if you see some changes if not than your module is bad
CAN THIS MODULE ALSO WORK AS STEP UP, 5VOLT TO 8 VOLT?
No.
Only step down
@@Electronic_For_You but how did you get it to output up to 30v and down to about 1.3v? I'm confused at this point. Nice video BTW.
For example:
If you put 20V input
The output will be 1.5V To 19V Few Voltage less from input voltage 😊
@@Electronic_For_You ok, thanks
Welcome
To inform those who are interested as to why I use the 1/3 principle, is mostly due to hot industrial environments. If you study many data sheets like I do, most components are tested at 25 Degrees C. Using a safety margin of 1/3 guarantees no overheating of microcontrollers or standard solid-state components. I can rest easy at night knowing that the electronic products that I design are going to go to survive for many years. Elevated temperatures can accelerate the aging of electrical components and induce thermal stress, resulting in equipment damage and a reduced lifespan. But its fine if you think its a waste to use the 1/3 principle. Do it your way. I’m not forcing anyone to do it my way.
To inform those who are interested as to why I use the 1/3 principle, is mostly due to hot industrial environments. If you study many data sheets like I do, most components are tested at 25 Degrees C. Using a safety margin of 1/3 guarantees no overheating of microcontrollers or standard solid-state components. I can rest easy at night knowing that the electronics products that I design are going to go into overheating failure. Elevated temperatures can accelerate the aging of electrical components and induce thermal stress, resulting in equipment damage and a reduced lifespan.
Extreme heat can lead to physical damage to your devices. Parts might melt or warp, connections could break, and batteries might expand to the point where they crack the device's casing. Screen Damage: Excessive heat can also negatively affect your device's screen. But its fine if you think its a waste to use the 1/3 principle. Do it your way. I’m not forcing anyone to do it my way.
Bruh can this module can be use for charging 12volt battery pack 18650
Yeah bruh , you can !
@@Electronic_For_You thank you so much bruh, i buy the multi cell module the function is 2s,3s,4s, and i have 3s 7p, but that module multi cell can't not fully charge my battery pack the out of multi cell module is 13volts somthing when i using the red led is turn on when it fully charge the blue led is turn on, but when i check it to my multi tester i got 12.0 reading so it mean's my battery pack not fully charge that's why i ask you if this buck converter can use for.charging thank you bruh
Set the module to 12.6V Exactly and 3Amps Constant Current, and charge your battery, do not use more than 12.65V
Please share over heating problem
Over current = Over heating
@@Electronic_For_You my input voltage is 13 volt 10 amp and out put volt is 10 volt 2 amp .
Please reply
I won't be make a light Lithium phosphate battery 13 volt 18ah and led output 9 volt 2 amp which buck converter I am using without any heating issue please inform me engineer.
It would work normal with 2Amps output
Hello dear
Potentiometer gumane pr bhi voltage yea ampere kam q nhi ho raha😭😭
Did you connect it backwards?
Check connection
@@Electronic_For_You
Didn't understand what you were trying to say🥲
🥰🥰🥰
😊💖
Input Voltage?
Maximum 30V
@@Electronic_For_You I know, I maens what voltage when you do the testing!
I used 32V
Nice
❤️
Because I doing science experiment in school please 🥺
I didn't understand what you mean by 5 ampre
Bro I have a 1 amper charger how to increase ampere with booster module please 🙏🙏 tell
@@Electronic_For_You i have a this module only XL4015 buck converter
Please tell how to increase ampere
I checked but not increasing amper please 🙏🙏 tell bro
If you input 5v 1A then you have to set the voltage to 1.2V and you can get 2-3A current
@@Electronic_For_You I want 24 volt and 3.current.ok
Bro 1amper we increase 5 ampere please please please please please please please please please 😮😮😮 please 🙏🙏🥺🙏🙏🙏🙏 tell bro any body please
I didn't understand
Reply please, Can this module convert dc 21volt to dc 11 volt ? I want to charge my 9volt lead acid battery using this module, does it work for me?
Yes it can ,
@@Electronic_For_You Thanks, I am your subscriber now
Thanks 🤝