Hi. Thanks for the presentation. The ripples for this converter (XL4015E to be precise) are in the range of 70-200 mV. The greater the current, the greater the ripples. You can partially get rid of the noise at the output, e.g. with ceramic capacitors + a capacitor with low ESR.
Hahaha.. tqtqtq.. this is the model I bought 2yrs ago..and it's still running well.. I use it to charge my car's battery and others too.. 👍👍👍 The only thing I wanted to do/know is how to install a fan within the module itself. At the moment I'm using different source for the fan. Tq.. salaam.
Thank you for this video. It was very enlightening. Sadly it opens up at least as many questions as it answers and at some point in time I can see I am going to have to look at the chips and look at this from a lower level, but for example there are two big fet's that can disconnect the battery. I think one was over voltage and one was over current. It seemed like all of the current was going through both of them. Given they have some on resistance it would seem to make more sense to only have one and have both conditions be able to trip the same gate. And in the balancing charger, it seems easy to have the fet both bypass and discharge the most charged cell, but it would be more efficient perhaps to have two fet's there, one to disconnect the high cell and one to bypass it. This may not be that big a deal if you are charging off low cost AC from your utility, though waste it still waste, but if you charge off of solar for example do you really want to be turning any more very expensive power into very expensive heat than you have to. But, you did a great job going over that these things do and what they do not do which is just what I was looking for.
I have a set of 4x3.85V 40Ah lithium-ion batteries (U max 4.4V). I use the converter to charge the battery in winter through the cigarette lighter socket inside the car. The conversion efficiency caught at 16V-13V input/output voltages was 94.2% in my case. I measured very accurately. Worth noting is the current, which has its efficiency peak at 1.2-2A. For me, this is ideal for slow overnight recharging. If the conversion voltages are close then the efficiency is high, although not as high as in good PWMs (even 99%) Regards, Marek
I believe I mentioned that I have not found any information about those. use a multimeter and see if the value changes when you turn the potentiometer. so it might be for external switch or potentiometer.
It's a shame you didn't test another great feature of the upper module which is the serial communication. That is an awesome feature that allows logging and power calculations for battery chargers of solar systems.
I didn't know. it has such feature. when I purchased it, I did not see any documentation. Assuming the upper module is just display. thank you for telling me. I will have a look at it.
@@robojax I know...these chinese modules don't provide any documentation and very often we miss some nice features. I got the pinout for the serial port on another video, but I'm yet to play with it myself.
Have done with most test, but people didn't shown appreciation and it was too much work to oscilloscope and camera and then edit. so I gave up doing it.
Could you tell which IC/micro controller is used for the display? While adjusting trim pot the screwdriver accidentally went over the ic pins now it's showing weired numbers.
I purchased a red color XL4015 5A module and the potentiometers are located a bit differently there - installed vertically. My Li-Ion battery is 3.7V/800mAh. When I set up the output voltage to 4.2 volts with the potentiometer (physically located closest to the voltage input terminals which is in my case 7.5 volts) then measure the output short-circuit current with 10A current range multimeter it is always 2350 mA regardless of the position of the constant current potentiometer (physically located closest to the voltage output terminals which is in my case 4.2 volts). If I connect my Li-Ion battery is 3.7V/800mAh and measure the charging current it is always 50 mA regardless of the position of the constant current potentiometer (physically located closest to the voltage output terminals which is in my case 4.2 volts). Question - how to adjust the constant current potentiometer to make the output current reach the predetermined overcurrent protection value of 800 mA? I have tried already 3 out of 5 modules you sent me -all are the same.
this is multiturn potentiometer. meaning you have to turn it 10 to 15 turns before you see the change in current. either your battery is fully charged or the current on this device is set to minimum.
Thanks for the excellent review. I made the mistake of ordering gel cells for a small portable power station I am building. I am using 2x 12 volt 12 ah batteries parallel. Since then, I have been looking for a good way to charge them at 14.4 volts with a 2 amp max rate. Would this be a solution to charge them with a small 30 watt panel? Does it turn off the charge when voltage levels are hit like some others I have seen? Thanks.
You are welcome. First this is NO a charger but it is a power supply. Because it has CC (constant current) setting capability, you set your current and voltage and never allows any current above your limit. I mentioned that is is not a charger because Lithium Polymer (LiPo) and other sensitive batteries need special charger or they get damaged. Your battery seems to be different and if you monitor status of charge you can use this module to charge.
So it is possible to use with the panel, but there is no “cut off” voltage point on the charger like a typical controller. one way to charge gel cells is with a constant voltage float charge, I could just dial 13.8 in. Or, if I had a load running on it, I guess I could dial up the voltage to 14.1-14.4 volts. In any case, I think the panel at 30 watts is pretty close to the max amp limit with 24ah, so I would really only be using this to decrease the volts down 4-5 volts, not so much the current. Thanks for your input.
the current determines the voltage. for example if we set the current at 2A. Any current under 2 will keep the voltage at 14.4. Then as the current reaches to 2A, the voltage is reduced until the current is below 2A and charge continues until no battery is full and it doesn't need more current, then voltage rises and charge will stop. so voltage will be observed and 14.4 is your cut off .
I have 2 questions. 1. There is no cable between the 7-segment layer and the sub-layer but how does the screen work? 2. What was the 3-pin and 2-pin on the top layer for you removed from?
Nice video. I need to power my odroid xu4 thru battery. so i need a stable 5V and 4A current. Which DC-DC do you recommend for nimh,nicad or SLA batteries with 7.2V or 12V input?
curious, but if you routed the potentiometers out to say actual dial potentiometers, could you put a heat sink along the top of the device, in contact with the chip?
The primary heatsink path is through the metal tab, onto the PCB. You could offer a little stress protection for the chip plastic casing with a heatsink on top, but it wouldn't necessarily need to be so large that you would benefit much from removing the pots, rather than just using a smaller heatsink. Instead, just get a different buck regulator module. There is no point in pretending it is a 5A module merely because that is the max spec for the IC but rather, to consider it less because of the whole design. A design for more current is a minimal difference in price unless you are buying great volumes to make product in quantity.
Output power can never be more than input .( Input Power +10%) = (Output power). P=VxA if you tell me the input voltage, then I can tell you the output voltage and power.
What is the function of the two jst connectors (white colour) which are placed on the top of the module??? This was not explained in the video actually.
Hello, this is exactly why I made this video to answer those type of questions. I don't remember the maximum current but for sure you can set voltage to 14.4V. Just watch and see if it can handle 3A, then yes.
Because 18V x 1A=18W and you want 14V x 2A = 28W, you can can't 28W. this is impossible. The output should be less or approximately equal to input so you might get 17W output.
Hi, how did you get the 5v? Always it shows me the input voltage which is 12v and I can’t adjusted with the pot. I managed to adjust the current. Can you please tell me how to get the 5v at the first place? Thanks,
Yes you can. your battery capacity is 20Ah and if you charge it at 4A, it will take 5A to charge it. I am posting how to charge a battery using this module. Make sure to subscribe so you are notified.
I have seen a review of your video about the LM2596 and XL4015 modules. I was thinking about how to stabilize the ic temperature when working full load. Now I have thoughts below, but I want to ask for your personal opinion. According to you : Can ic xl4015 (with the use of constant current 5A) or lm2596 (with the use of constant current 2A) be separated from the default board and then extended pinout the legs ic using a good cable and then attach it to a heatsink that has the fan? For example, it is affixed to an old VGA card fan heatsink where the power to turn it on comes from the input power module. I mean that the 3.42A / 19V (laptop charger) power source is coupled to the IC 7812 input (with a heatsink) then outputs the IC 7812 to the VGA card fan. By the way, in your opinion, which is more accurate in measuring currents using a common digital multimeter or digital volt and ammeter panel? Thank you in advance and greetings from Indonesia.. (*_^)/
Yes you can move the regulator to large heat sink. Actually that is the best solution. For current measurement, it depends on how good is the quality of panel or multimeter. Some times V/A panel meters are better than meters. But meters are generally better. You would have to do the test and find out which one is accurate.
@@robojax Thank you for the reply.. Yes, I have tested it on both devices. In the XL4015 module, I set a current output of 1A and output voltage of 4.2V. But I saw something wrong, why is the difference in the current reading on the two devices different? Try to see for yourself in the attachment that I included here: - Before the current test: www.dropbox.com/s/5vzygkrqrrtoja9/Before%20test%20current.jpg?dl=0 - While the current test: www.dropbox.com/s/ayiugf1g7yhj4y3/While%20test%20current.jpg?dl=0 - What inside on black box : www.dropbox.com/s/b0qtgf1yrvqwsdj/PSU_XL4015.jpg?dl=0 So, which current reading is correct? Digital V/A panel meters or multimeters? Both are new in the box. Is one of these devices a manufacturing defect?
I can see that you connected the output directly to your meter and there is no load. Just short circuit. Strange. What happens if you short circuit the box without multimeter? Let me know the reading.
Robojax Do you mean without digital multimeter ? Yes it is showing the same result like the 2nd attachment (while measured). Maybe today/tonight I will try with LM2596 regulator buck module & the other parts still using the same part. I will posted the result of it here a.s.a.p..🙏
Something is wrong. How much do you trust the Ammeter installed in the black box? Either current goes from other path or the meter is incorrect. If your multimeter is working properly.
I do not know if someone out there can help me? here is the problem I have with this module: I am having a problem in following the instructions from Robojax in this video and trying to set the current. 1) I set my voltages to 5.00V without a problem 2) As I short the output wires the current reads 1.25A and the blue light is on. I then try to turn the current potentiometer the raise the current to 3.0A, at around 1.75A the display suddenly shows 0.00 A and the blue LED shutoff and the red led turns on. And now I cannot adjust the desire current, is my module dead? (by the way I tried with 2 modules), is there a way to reset it to normal operation and if it is the case how can I adjust my current up to 3A? after all the specs on this thing is 5A... Thanks for your help!
I waited to see if someone replays and your comment was under "I haven't responded" section. For me to answer, I have to connected the exact voltage and load to see it and I don't have the module ready. I hope someone reply
@@robojax Thanks, no one replied just yet! I still have the same problem! I was trying to feed 5 volts to a Raspberry Pi 4 8Gb and I kept on getting the low voltage on the Raspberry - So I wanted to crank the amperage up to 3 amps to properly provide the right current to the RPi .
3S 12V can be 1W or 1000W . now. your laptop needs 19.5V x 3.33A = 65W and if your battery can supply 65W ÷ 12.6 = 5.1A yes you can do it. this is the minimum.
@@robojax Thx for that info. I recycled the 3 cells from a laptop battery and connected it via a 3s BMS. Each cell has 4300mAh. So I think the C rating is higher then 1. But I guess I need a proper cooling solution for 5A through this converter?
hey. my module is not accurate at low current that is i set to 63mA(short circuit) and when connecting an led it draws about 73 mA. why is it like that ??
this is 5A=5000mA module,, so 63mA is 1.26% of total. For this type of devices, 2-5% error should be acceptable. And ±3% is 150mA so you might get 150mA less or 150mA more. for your application you should get a lower power/current module something like 100mA, then with 2% error you will get only 2mA Error.
motor is inductive load and it draws different current at any instance. The current you read is the average. So in some motors it would be very hard to read steady current reading.
You know what, I'd rather use this to power the 25kg 7.4v servo in my rc crawler, instead of those overpriced 7v 'programmable' RC BECs that also need additional dongles.
got a question, I need to provide 5-12v to a induction heating coil module ruclips.net/video/HvgM0awet9I/видео.html, can I use the module you tested to have a constant current of 4A ? will remain at 4A ?
if the difference between input and output is smaller, it can handle 4A. for example 12V input and 9V output. but if you try 12V input and 3.3V output, as shown in video at 06:17 it got overheated. so there is no clear answer.
I have 12 v both in IN and OUT, will use the induction heating in a 3D printer to heat the extruder hot-end which has a thermistor to control the temperature of the hot-end by turning on/off the induction heating element controlled by this module. Does it make sense? will it work or I am missing something?
this device is to different output than input. If you are feeding 12v to the input and then getting 12v output, why use this? why not connecting it directly without this module?
because the board that controls the 12volt cannot handle more than 4A. So I want to make sure that the induction module cannot draw more than 4A even though there is the thermistor feedback on the hotends, So the thermistor will shut off the 12 V input when a certain temp is reached by using the induction heating, and it will maintain the set temperature by enabling the 12 V input and so on. Makes sense?
okay. So you want to use it as current limiter. This also called Constant Current (CC). Because the difference between input and output is zero, it should handle up to 5A.
Hi. Thanks for the presentation. The ripples for this converter (XL4015E to be precise) are in the range of 70-200 mV. The greater the current, the greater the ripples. You can partially get rid of the noise at the output, e.g. with ceramic capacitors + a capacitor with low ESR.
Thanks for the info!
Pm me can you to install do solar panel..
Hahaha.. tqtqtq.. this is the model I bought 2yrs ago..and it's still running well..
I use it to charge my car's battery and others too.. 👍👍👍
The only thing I wanted to do/know is how to install a fan within the module itself.
At the moment I'm using different source for the fan.
Tq.. salaam.
Great 👍
Pm me can you to install do solar panel..
Thank you for this video. It was very enlightening. Sadly it opens up at least as many questions as it answers and at some point in time I can see I am going to have to look at the chips and look at this from a lower level, but for example there are two big fet's that can disconnect the battery. I think one was over voltage and one was over current. It seemed like all of the current was going through both of them. Given they have some on resistance it would seem to make more sense to only have one and have both conditions be able to trip the same gate. And in the balancing charger, it seems easy to have the fet both bypass and discharge the most charged cell, but it would be more efficient perhaps to have two fet's there, one to disconnect the high cell and one to bypass it. This may not be that big a deal if you are charging off low cost AC from your utility, though waste it still waste, but if you charge off of solar for example do you really want to be turning any more very expensive power into very expensive heat than you have to. But, you did a great job going over that these things do and what they do not do which is just what I was looking for.
OOPs, wrong video, this was intended for the BMS one ruclips.net/video/0mOqpCfAdy4/видео.html
Hello, the video for BMS is moved here ruclips.net/video/QNENyu97w2A/видео.html
Pm me can you to install do solar panel..
I have a set of 4x3.85V 40Ah lithium-ion batteries (U max 4.4V). I use the converter to charge the battery in winter through the cigarette lighter socket inside the car. The conversion efficiency caught at 16V-13V input/output voltages was 94.2% in my case. I measured very accurately. Worth noting is the current, which has its efficiency peak at 1.2-2A. For me, this is ideal for slow overnight recharging. If the conversion voltages are close then the efficiency is high, although not as high as in good PWMs (even 99%)
Regards, Marek
Thanks for sharing your experience.
Pm me can you to install do solar panel..
What are the two white connector units (2pin and 3pin) on the metering unit used for?
I believe I mentioned that I have not found any information about those. use a multimeter and see if the value changes when you turn the potentiometer. so it might be for external switch or potentiometer.
This is the best module which i saw only is necesary a fan
Yes. It just need a fan.
Pm me can you to install do solar panel..
THANKS FROM GREECE!!!
You are welcome from Canada 🇨🇦
It's a shame you didn't test another great feature of the upper module which is the serial communication. That is an awesome feature that allows logging and power calculations for battery chargers of solar systems.
I didn't know. it has such feature. when I purchased it, I did not see any documentation. Assuming the upper module is just display. thank you for telling me. I will have a look at it.
@@robojax I know...these chinese modules don't provide any documentation and very often we miss some nice features. I got the pinout for the serial port on another video, but I'm yet to play with it myself.
Pm me can you to install do solar panel..
Thanks bro. Great. You explained very well. My doubts cleared
Glad to hear that
Pm me can you to install do solar panel..
I would like to see some tests on output current ripple or noise.
Have done with most test, but people didn't shown appreciation and it was too much work to oscilloscope and camera and then edit. so I gave up doing it.
Pm me can you to install do solar panel..
thanks, it's very well explained! (Greeting from France)
You are welcome.
Pm me can you to install do solar panel..
Could you tell which IC/micro controller is used for the display?
While adjusting trim pot the screwdriver accidentally went over the ic pins now it's showing weired numbers.
Pm me can you to install do solar panel..
Love your videos, great work!
Thank you very much.
Pm me can you to install do solar panel..
I purchased a red color XL4015 5A module and the potentiometers are located a bit differently there - installed vertically. My Li-Ion battery is 3.7V/800mAh. When I set up the output voltage to 4.2 volts with the potentiometer (physically located closest to the voltage input terminals which is in my case 7.5 volts) then measure the output short-circuit current with 10A current range multimeter it is always 2350 mA regardless of the position of the constant current potentiometer (physically located closest to the voltage output terminals which is in my case 4.2 volts). If I connect my Li-Ion battery is 3.7V/800mAh and measure the charging current it is always 50 mA regardless of the position of the constant current potentiometer (physically located closest to the voltage output terminals which is in my case 4.2 volts). Question - how to adjust the constant current potentiometer to make the output current reach the predetermined overcurrent protection value of 800 mA? I have tried already 3 out of 5 modules you sent me -all are the same.
this is multiturn potentiometer. meaning you have to turn it 10 to 15 turns before you see the change in current. either your battery is fully charged or the current on this device is set to minimum.
Pm me can you to install do solar panel..
Thanks for the excellent review. I made the mistake of ordering gel cells for a small portable power station I am building. I am using 2x 12 volt 12 ah batteries parallel. Since then, I have been looking for a good way to charge them at 14.4 volts with a 2 amp max rate.
Would this be a solution to charge them with a small 30 watt panel? Does it turn off the charge when voltage levels are hit like some others I have seen? Thanks.
You are welcome. First this is NO a charger but it is a power supply. Because it has CC (constant current) setting capability, you set your current and voltage and never allows any current above your limit. I mentioned that is is not a charger because Lithium Polymer (LiPo) and other sensitive batteries need special charger or they get damaged. Your battery seems to be different and if you monitor status of charge you can use this module to charge.
So it is possible to use with the panel, but there is no “cut off” voltage point on the charger like a typical controller. one way to charge gel cells is with a constant voltage float charge, I could just dial 13.8 in. Or, if I had a load running on it, I guess I could dial up the voltage to 14.1-14.4 volts. In any case, I think the panel at 30 watts is pretty close to the max amp limit with 24ah, so I would really only be using this to decrease the volts down 4-5 volts, not so much the current. Thanks for your input.
the current determines the voltage. for example if we set the current at 2A. Any current under 2 will keep the voltage at 14.4. Then as the current reaches to 2A, the voltage is reduced until the current is below 2A and charge continues until no battery is full and it doesn't need more current, then voltage rises and charge will stop. so voltage will be observed and 14.4 is your cut off .
can i use 3s lithium ion battery pack (12.6v maximum) to drive 12v led strips with 12v from this board?
this module doesn' t know the battery type. Voltage is voltage. so yes.
@@robojax ok thank you
Another excellent video! Thanks mate!
You are welcome.
Pm me can you to install do solar panel..
I have 2 questions.
1. There is no cable between the 7-segment layer and the sub-layer but how does the screen work?
2. What was the 3-pin and 2-pin on the top layer for you removed from?
Hello, 1- the module has 4 screw. those are used for communication and power.
2-connects are using for programming or external potentiometer
@@robojax Could you please tell me how to use the serial pins, preferably with an arduino?
What are the two white connectors on top used for?
Pm me can you to install do solar panel..
Nice video. I need to power my odroid xu4 thru battery. so i need a stable 5V and 4A current. Which DC-DC do you recommend for nimh,nicad or SLA batteries with 7.2V or 12V input?
Thank you. NIMH has longer life but needs careful attention when charging. NICD is cheap and easy to charge but not as lasting as NIMH.
Pm me can you to install do solar panel..
curious, but if you routed the potentiometers out to say actual dial potentiometers, could you put a heat sink along the top of the device, in contact with the chip?
The primary heatsink path is through the metal tab, onto the PCB. You could offer a little stress protection for the chip plastic casing with a heatsink on top, but it wouldn't necessarily need to be so large that you would benefit much from removing the pots, rather than just using a smaller heatsink. Instead, just get a different buck regulator module. There is no point in pretending it is a 5A module merely because that is the max spec for the IC but rather, to consider it less because of the whole design. A design for more current is a minimal difference in price unless you are buying great volumes to make product in quantity.
Pm me can you to install do solar panel..
Thanks man! Keep up the good work :)
You are welcome. thanks
Pm me can you to install do solar panel..
If the input current is only 1Amp the module can boost the output to max of 5 Amp or it defends on the input current?
Output power can never be more than input .( Input Power +10%) = (Output power). P=VxA if you tell me the input voltage, then I can tell you the output voltage and power.
What is the function of the two jst connectors (white colour) which are placed on the top of the module??? This was not explained in the video actually.
the manufacturer did not provide details.
@@robojax Ok thanks but do you have any source/information which could explain the functioning of the jst connectors????
Very good Sir 👌💐💐💐🇮🇳🇮🇳
Thanks.
Can I charge a car battery 14,4 3Аamper tuned to the output. rechargeable battery 64amp
Hello, this is exactly why I made this video to answer those type of questions. I don't remember the maximum current but for sure you can set voltage to 14.4V. Just watch and see if it can handle 3A, then yes.
If I put 18v 1amp, then may I get 14v 2A?
Because 18V x 1A=18W and you want 14V x 2A = 28W, you can can't 28W. this is impossible. The output should be less or approximately equal to input so you might get 17W output.
👍❤️
Well Done, thank you.
You are welcome. Thank you for not skipping the ads and keep watching them. This will help me a lot.
Pm me can you to install do solar panel..
Hi, how did you get the 5v? Always it shows me the input voltage which is 12v and I can’t adjusted with the pot. I managed to adjust the current. Can you please tell me how to get the 5v at the first place? Thanks,
Hi, This is multi turn potentiometer. Turn it 10 to 15 turns.
@@robojax thanks it work.
Mine does not show 0amp when not connected to load. It shows .O1 to .02amp. Unlike yours. Can it be adjusted.
Pm me can you to install do solar panel..
Helpful video sir , can I charge 24v 20a lithium ion battery pack ?
Yes you can. your battery capacity is 20Ah and if you charge it at 4A, it will take 5A to charge it. I am posting how to charge a battery using this module. Make sure to subscribe so you are notified.
@@robojax Thankyou Sir 👍
you are welcome.
Hi again, at what stage the little light turn blue please? Thanks,
Hi, I have no idea. I would have to watch the video to tell you. so please watch.
@@robojax no worries thanks.
Hi!
Can you tell what's the device with the fan for generating the load? Do you have a link for that?
it is electronic load and here is my video on that
ruclips.net/video/-kI7OtTHd18/видео.html
Any update on the serial protocol ?
None
Nice video. I need to connect 2 usb ports to charge cellphones, does phone gets as many amps as it needs?
Yes. Check the video. At 5V output it will be divided the current (Ampere) into two phones.
@@robojax ok, thanks.
you are welcome.
I have seen a review of your video about the LM2596 and XL4015 modules. I was thinking about how to stabilize the ic temperature when working full load. Now I have thoughts below, but I want to ask for your personal opinion. According to you :
Can ic xl4015 (with the use of constant current 5A) or lm2596 (with the use of constant current 2A) be separated from the default board and then extended pinout the legs ic using a good cable and then attach it to a heatsink that has the fan? For example, it is affixed to an old VGA card fan heatsink where the power to turn it on comes from the input power module.
I mean that the 3.42A / 19V (laptop charger) power source is coupled to the IC 7812 input (with a heatsink) then outputs the IC 7812 to the VGA card fan.
By the way, in your opinion, which is more accurate in measuring currents using a common digital multimeter or digital volt and ammeter panel?
Thank you in advance and greetings from Indonesia.. (*_^)/
Yes you can move the regulator to large heat sink. Actually that is the best solution.
For current measurement, it depends on how good is the quality of panel or multimeter. Some times V/A panel meters are better than meters. But meters are generally better. You would have to do the test and find out which one is accurate.
@@robojax Thank you for the reply..
Yes, I have tested it on both devices.
In the XL4015 module, I set a current output of 1A and output voltage of 4.2V.
But I saw something wrong, why is the difference in the current reading on the two devices different?
Try to see for yourself in the attachment that I included here:
- Before the current test: www.dropbox.com/s/5vzygkrqrrtoja9/Before%20test%20current.jpg?dl=0
- While the current test: www.dropbox.com/s/ayiugf1g7yhj4y3/While%20test%20current.jpg?dl=0
- What inside on black box : www.dropbox.com/s/b0qtgf1yrvqwsdj/PSU_XL4015.jpg?dl=0
So, which current reading is correct?
Digital V/A panel meters or multimeters?
Both are new in the box. Is one of these devices a manufacturing defect?
I can see that you connected the output directly to your meter and there is no load. Just short circuit. Strange. What happens if you short circuit the box without multimeter? Let me know the reading.
Robojax Do you mean without digital multimeter ? Yes it is showing the same result like the 2nd attachment (while measured).
Maybe today/tonight I will try with LM2596 regulator buck module & the other parts still using the same part. I will posted the result of it here a.s.a.p..🙏
Something is wrong. How much do you trust the Ammeter installed in the black box? Either current goes from other path or the meter is incorrect. If your multimeter is working properly.
Pm me can you to install do solar panel..
helpful bro . tnx
you are welcome.
Pm me can you to install do solar panel..
I do not know if someone out there can help me? here is the problem I have with this module: I am having a problem in following the instructions from Robojax in this video and trying to set the current. 1) I set my voltages to 5.00V without a problem 2) As I short the output wires the current reads 1.25A and the blue light is on. I then try to turn the current potentiometer the raise the current to 3.0A, at around 1.75A the display suddenly shows 0.00 A and the blue LED shutoff and the red led turns on. And now I cannot adjust the desire current, is my module dead? (by the way I tried with 2 modules), is there a way to reset it to normal operation and if it is the case how can I adjust my current up to 3A? after all the specs on this thing is 5A... Thanks for your help!
I waited to see if someone replays and your comment was under "I haven't responded" section. For me to answer, I have to connected the exact voltage and load to see it and I don't have the module ready. I hope someone reply
@@robojax Thanks, no one replied just yet! I still have the same problem! I was trying to feed 5 volts to a Raspberry Pi 4 8Gb and I kept on getting the low voltage on the Raspberry - So I wanted to crank the amperage up to 3 amps to properly provide the right current to the RPi .
can we use this charger for cordless battery
this module just knows voltage and current. so yes it should work if you set proper voltage and current for the abttery.
how many voltage input will put
Is it possible to power a laptop at 19.5v 3.33a from a 3s 12.6v lipo with that converter?
3S 12V can be 1W or 1000W . now. your laptop needs 19.5V x 3.33A = 65W and if your battery can supply 65W ÷ 12.6 = 5.1A yes you can do it. this is the minimum.
@@robojax Thx for that info. I recycled the 3 cells from a laptop battery and connected it via a 3s BMS. Each cell has 4300mAh. So I think the C rating is higher then 1. But I guess I need a proper cooling solution for 5A through this converter?
Hi there sir could you please tell me how to give power to this? i have this module but its not working why is that sir?
Pm me can you to install do solar panel..
Good review
Thank you.
Pm me can you to install do solar panel..
Do you have a link where to find this module?
i looked on amazon/banggood, and cant find it. Thanks. jimmyg
get it from eBay www.ebay.ca/itm/112237134540
check aliexpress. i got mine there.
Can I charge acid filled lead batteries with this module?
yes you can. you'd have to set your voltage and current limit.
@@robojax For a 12 V 5 AH acid filled lead battery, to what value the charging voltage and current to be set?
for each battery it is mentioned in the documentation of the battery. find it.
hey. my module is not accurate at low current that is i set to 63mA(short circuit) and when connecting an led it draws about 73 mA. why is it like that ??
this is 5A=5000mA module,, so 63mA is 1.26% of total. For this type of devices, 2-5% error should be acceptable. And ±3% is 150mA so you might get 150mA less or 150mA more. for your application you should get a lower power/current module something like 100mA, then with 2% error you will get only 2mA Error.
@@robojax thanx 👷
But when a dc motor is connected the variation is high like more than 300 mA
motor is inductive load and it draws different current at any instance. The current you read is the average. So in some motors it would be very hard to read steady current reading.
You know what, I'd rather use this to power the 25kg 7.4v servo in my rc crawler, instead of those overpriced 7v 'programmable' RC BECs that also need additional dongles.
I hope it works. good luck ک. خلیقه
got a question, I need to provide 5-12v to a induction heating coil module ruclips.net/video/HvgM0awet9I/видео.html, can I use the module you tested to have a constant current of 4A ? will remain at 4A ?
if the difference between input and output is smaller, it can handle 4A. for example 12V input and 9V output. but if you try 12V input and 3.3V output, as shown in video at 06:17 it got overheated. so there is no clear answer.
I have 12 v both in IN and OUT, will use the induction heating in a 3D printer to heat the extruder hot-end which has a thermistor to control the temperature of the hot-end by turning on/off the induction heating element controlled by this module. Does it make sense? will it work or I am missing something?
this device is to different output than input. If you are feeding 12v to the input and then getting 12v output, why use this? why not connecting it directly without this module?
because the board that controls the 12volt cannot handle more than 4A. So I want to make sure that the induction module cannot draw more than 4A even though there is the thermistor feedback on the hotends, So the thermistor will shut off the 12 V input when a certain temp is reached by using the induction heating, and it will maintain the set temperature by enabling the 12 V input and so on. Makes sense?
okay. So you want to use it as current limiter. This also called Constant Current (CC). Because the difference between input and output is zero, it should handle up to 5A.