Thank you for the review, great stuff! Just got these in the mail and was a bit confused to get them running, especially with different shops describing the two potentiometers in different ways. Now I got them figured out👍🏼
Now this is what i call a great review! I did not expect this thing to be so clever. I will receive mine in a few days, cant wait to try it out. Greetings from germany!
Thank you for detailed review and test. Using it as current limiter with 12v psu for powering up LEDs. Without this module, psu switched off due to current runaway. Now working stable with lower voltage and limited curren at 9.5v and 1.5A and not hearing up much.
I would like to share that I have some of these XL4015 CV / CC modules (bought thru eBay) and I made an auxiliary power supply and CAR BATTERY CHARGER up to 4.0Amp continuous, using this module, a 50mm fan and an older LAPTOP power supply (19V x 4.7A = 90Watt rated). It worked very well to provide 14.4V (CV adjust). However, at more than 2.0 to 2.5A (CC limit), the Output diode, Output capacitor, and inductor heated substantially (>70°C) - measured with IR spot thermometer. I solved that using a 50mm 12V fan blowing directly into the XL4015 module and even created a fan speed control, measuring the temperature with an 10K NTC (epoxy glued) under output diode area. I have set the threshold to 55°C for High speed (10Volts) if the module is more demanded, otherwise the fan runs continuous and silently at 5Volts. It works well up to 4.0 ~ 4.5A max, but to play safe, I limit the current to 3.5 ~ 4.0A max for long term use as charging a car battery, when I see the temperature control can still turn off the ”fan blower” over the module - proving the cooling it still has thermal safety margin. I hope it helps.
@@robojax it’s so funny I just realized last night that I must have been watching Robojax and Watthour videos for months now interchangeably without realizing they were separate accounts! 😂 I was wondering, why did you decide to change / create a whole new account though ? Your videos are the best, so thorough!
@@robojax l’m subscribed to both! ❤️ I got one of these modules btw and love it. They are so cheap I think I’m going to put them on all my devices for voltage protection (I noticed my ESP connected to it runs cooler now too). Now I could use your wisdom : in either wiring two in parallel to support powering two 5V 3A 8 x 32 matrices on one power supply. Or finding one converter that can handle both panels. One of these Xl4015 modulels comfortably handles one panel. It handles two panels, if the displays are not full brightness. I’m a little concerned that someone might boost the brightness an hurt this buck unless I have two running. Either that or do you have a favorite converter that handles 6A? (searching your videos frantically now 😆)
I always use the 1/3 Amperage principle to protect the circuit from voltage and amperage drift. Plus overheating. At 5 Amps maximum rating according to the datasheets, that calculates to 1.666 amps continuous voltage and amperage output without drift. It has worked for me for 25 years without any problems. It lets me sleep at night. LOL
Again, that is a silly way to design for such low margins, and since you did not design this, is not applicable to these or other over-rated generic chinese modules. Nothing you own, including the computing device you watch this on, is designed to that wasteful standard.
@@stinkycheese804 How many Degrees do you possess? Do you even have a grade 12 Diploma? How much design experience in electronics engineering do you have? Don’t judge me when you don’t know what you are talking about.
As the battery gets charged, regardless if you limit the current, the battery asks for less current because the battery potential gets higher, while the batteries internal resistance remains the same.. requiring less current as the battery gets charged. If there's no current limit the battery will ask for whatever the battery can handle depending on its internal resistance, ... So for the mp1584 buck it cycles and heats up.. but when I get near 100% the converter provides us current and gives a constant charge.. shows no more cycles of heating up.. I see this on the meter.. therefore I know that it is heating up and shutting down and then heating up again charging fast.. Buck converters taught me about battery charging.. buck converters are awesome because there's plenty of sources of free voltage.. batteries, solar panels, hand crank generators, wind turbines, hydro turbines, ... The buck converter takes these voltages and lowers them for us.. absolutely awesome. Love inductors and capacitors!!
Dear Brother Greetings of the day Fabulous way to describe each and every thing with database I appreciate your efforts I am working in central university in India
Thank you for the detailed review and providing chapters! Could have a "setting output voltage" chapter, as that was what I was looking for. But ended up watching the whole thing :)
Very interesting your posts in general and this latest one is no different. You did explain very well everything, but the Efficiency equation at time 7:50 could be clarified in terms of P-out (Vout x Iout) x Efficiency, or for required Pin, as I understood from your talk. Regardless of that I’m very glad to see all your effort to share in a very practical way and check its limitations. *** (integrating here past replies in 2020): P_out = P_in x Effic. Or P_out = (V_in x I_in) x Effic. Or still required P_in = P_out / Effic., that is what I meant.
Thank you for sharing your work and comment. Even though I have written "Input Power" and "Output Power" I should have been explicit to eliminate ambiguity. I can't fix that now unless to remove it that portion or re-upload the video again.
This happens to everyone. And I just realized that I did a mistake too: P_out = P_in x Effic. Or P_out = (V_in x I_in) x Effic. Or still P_in = P_out / Effic.
@Richard, I agree with you, thanks for noticing. Furthermore, I had observed this and made a reply to Robojax about 1 year ago, clarifying this mistake from my side, when I also elaborated the equations referring to Vout and Iout. To avoid similar misalignment of posts, I edited and supplemented my original post with the intended equations.
Very nice explanation. I bought it yesterday and follow your steps. The module works flawlessly. But one thing you missed the Li-ion, Ni-cd, Ni-mh battery charging test. Can you explain it ??
This is not a charger. This is just a step down converter. If someone want to use it as charger, it has to be monitored constantly as this will damage the battery. Thank you for not skipping the ads and keep watching it. This will help me a lot.
But description shows it👇👇👇 This Buck converter can be used as a normal step-down module with overcurrent protection capability for various applications. It is used as a charger for various voltage lithium batteries, batteries, nickel-cadmium nickel-hydrogen batteries (battery packs), for solar panels, wind turbines, etc. This buck converter can also be used as a high power LED driver module.🤔🤔🤔🤔
If the LM358 accepts 3 - 32 V at its input, why do they need to power it by means of an 78L05 linear regulator? I know my electronics knowledge is limited, but I understand that for such reason the converter requires around 6.5 V to regulate or work in constant current mode (I have a few of these and tested this), due to the voltage drop of the 78L05; whereas without the 78L05 or with it bypassed the module should work in constant current mode with 5 V or less (I haven't tested this). Is this so due to unenlightened design of the module, or maybe I am not understanding something? 🤔 Thanks for these videos.
Thank you for this video! I purchased from Eiechip on Aliexpress some boards XL4015 5A for charging a lithium battery with two resistors and the output voltage is adjustable but the output current is not following the process shown in your video @ 12:44! Which component could be defective on these boards? The same issue with all 5 boards I purchased.
I have this module. When i input 12v dc then instantly full charge LED lights up and no output voltage develops. Is my device faulty? What's the possible problem?
Great and informative video . Can you tell me if I have to use the current part of the buck if I want to use a 7.4 lipo reduce it down to 6v for an rc transmitter . The transmitter has 4 1.5 v AA batteries in it. And if I do what do you suggest I set it at . Your help is greatly appreciated 🙏
Hi, I looked at page 3 of datasheet for XL4015 datasheet.lcsc.com/szlcsc/1811081616_XLSEMI-XL4015E1_C51661.pdf and the output SW pin and it can't get current entering that pin. so it seems safe. but I have not tested it.
during the current limit setting, such at 14:29 , why the input power = 30.1V*0.1A = 3W, but the output power(almost a shorted circit) = 15V*1.6A = 24W, please help me to understand what happend....
oh suddenly I understand why: when outputing as a shorted circit, the output voltage dropped vastly 'cause the shorted circit has a very low resistance to hold a voltage, so the output power = * 1.6A =
I have the model with the blue PCB, it has only the XL4015 with a heatsink mounted, Schottky rectifier(SS54), no LM358, no L7805, no TL431, I mistakenly connected it in reverse polarity and it damaged, please what component will likely be faulty that I can replace and get it back working?
Great video I have old Drill batterys Ni-Cd (12 volt) I will change to Li-Ion batterys .Can I use none modifications apply old DC charger 's voltage to new BMS circuit or I must add to old battery adapter, Currrent constant like in this video? (Of ourse I will add a LED for charged indicator to old Ni-Cad adapter's output section) Thank you
Hi, Yes it will charge. you just need to set maximum voltage and maximum current and charge. please see my channel on energy called WattHour youtube.com/@watthour
Thank you for your reply to my before question. Could you make a video about solder station controller project(if have with PID contoller more great) in nowadays. I want make a soldering Iron and controller with Arduino. I want make like JBC soldering station (I will buy Solder handle+Solder Pins others I will make) I sure so much hoobyst like this project also I want learn details from expert like you
Thanks for the review! Do you happen to know what the two holes are for located next to the positive input? One is connected to the negative input, and the other appears to connect to pin 4 (VC) of the XL4015 , although that's just based on my continuity test. Any idea what that might be used for?
Hi, Thank you for the comment. I am trying to show the input and output without changing. Because people buy it like this and they don't want to add something to it. if do that then the title should be "how to increase the current output"
@@robojax Yes your current videos are really great, and I like that you make a review. I also buy based on your videos. But a separate video for improving or modifying them is also very good content. If you are capable of making those contents, that would be really great. You have the tools to do those and measure. Hopefully you could continue to make great reviews and also add a separate video on how to modify or improve those products. Like increasing power (adding heat sink, replacing parts with higher capacity, changing coils with thicker width, etc).
Thank you for this tutorial. My question is...can I achieve 18v and 1.7amps with this module. I have a 4s10p lithium battery pack and would like to power up a boom box stereo that takes DC 18v and 1.7 amps to power up. And if not, what would you recommend. Thanks again.
Thanks again for your videos! What are your tools - like the screen on the left, some Windows software connected to RIGOL? Can you show your bench also and spend little time explaining about your tools?
You are welcome. Yes it is the software that is coming with Rigol Electronic load: www.rigolna.com/products/dc-power-loads/dl3000/ . sure I will try to make a video on my Studio-Lab in the future. I have added the link to the Thermal Camera and the electronic load in the description of video.
Hello, what about the plated holes near the conectors? They are also connected to VIN and VOUT? Can I solder a pin there and solder this board to my own board?
Can this be used to "charge" a battery cell (1s1p) ? I have a PSU that outputs 30V 5A, and I want to output max 4.2V and max 1.7A (datasheet of 18650 cell says charge at 1.7A max). In other words, can this adapt constant current and constant voltage, or does this module just simply cuts the voltage (as seen in your video) if my load draws more than the set current limit? Basically, can this be used to push current safely into a battery cell at specific max current? Thanks for the review.
I wanted to use this for charging my Homemade 12.6V 16AH Li-Ion Battery which can charge at 1C. Now when I connect that to a 12V 10A Power Supply, it keeps triggering the Over Current Protection of the SMPS and thus the repeated trigger significantly reduces the charge time. Would this device provide a constant 5A current to the Battery Pack? At 1C, the battery can take upto 16A for charging but can this device limit it to only 5A?
I don’t like positive buck converter the positive voltage is burn the mosfets like a resistor even with bootstrap driver I use only negative buck converter circuit I use a higher 5 amp motor with 12 amp surge and the negative buck work very cool
You are welcome. That is Seek Thermal Compact Imager connected to my phone www.amazon.ca/dp/B00NYWAHHM Rigol DSC3031 Electronic load: www.rigolna.com/products/dc-power-loads/dl3000/ I have added these links in the video description.
Review is so cool.. plz continue to do more reviews. I have 2 questions : 1. am trying to use XL4015 for 24V to 7V in a 2A load, is it need heat sink? 2. Can we conclude if the output watt is more the IC heats nd if the VIN - Vout is large the inductor heats up?
Thanks. 1-I answered that with test in the video. 2-Yes I demonstrated it. I don't remember anything abou this video. I have to watch to answer it. So you watch without skipping and I can assure you , you will get answer.
can i use these to charge lithium ion batteries cuz charging lithium ion has 2 phases ccv I am confused about how to make a diy 48v 20amp charger (@1c) using a 1kw dc power supply.
you can but this will over only 3A to 5A. please watch this where I've explained the voltage and current of chargers ruclips.net/video/0mOqpCfAdy4/видео.html
It would be nice if you had summarized the results V/A/ efficiency rate and instead of showing every test you would stress test at maximum settings ro show design failures of the converter and ways to improve it!.....
I believe I mentioned it. Power LED and CC LED. When the current reaches to set value, the CC LED will turn ON. I don't remember the color, I have shown it in video.
Looking for the same info, when I connect my meter leads in the output, I can't seem to messure more than 0.6 amp, regardless of if I turn the current screw ?
Hi Zasa, I have seen your comment on my many videos. Thank you for that. Recently RUclips made easy for creators to see who is subscribed 🔔 and who is not, and I was surprised 😮 to see you haven't subscribed🔔 to my channel.
A yellow core is often iron powder core. If it is then the XL4015 is likely a fake because an iron powder inductor is no good at 180kHz. Check the switching frequency on an oscilloscope, it is likely 50-70kHz, in which case the XL4015 is a fake.
You always provide details of every chip, which I like the most 😄
Glad you like them!
Thank you for the review, great stuff! Just got these in the mail and was a bit confused to get them running, especially with different shops describing the two potentiometers in different ways. Now I got them figured out👍🏼
Glad I could help!
Now this is what i call a great review! I did not expect this thing to be so clever. I will receive mine in a few days, cant wait to try it out. Greetings from germany!
Hope you enjoy it!
Thank you for detailed review and test. Using it as current limiter with 12v psu for powering up LEDs. Without this module, psu switched off due to current runaway. Now working stable with lower voltage and limited curren at 9.5v and 1.5A and not hearing up much.
wow , this guy rocks! if only ali express sellers could put the same description on a product page, China would quickly recover from housing crisis !!
Excellent video! You explained in detail and covered nearly everything
I'm now sub'd!!
Awesome, thank you!
Nice and professional, it shows technical limits of design boundries and gives the chances for improvements in design and better safe use of modules
I would like to share that I have some of these XL4015 CV / CC modules (bought thru eBay) and I made an auxiliary power supply and CAR BATTERY CHARGER up to 4.0Amp continuous, using this module, a 50mm fan and an older LAPTOP power supply (19V x 4.7A = 90Watt rated).
It worked very well to provide 14.4V (CV adjust). However, at more than 2.0 to 2.5A (CC limit), the Output diode, Output capacitor, and inductor heated substantially (>70°C) - measured with IR spot thermometer. I solved that using a 50mm 12V fan blowing directly into the XL4015 module and even created a fan speed control, measuring the temperature with an 10K NTC (epoxy glued) under output diode area. I have set the threshold to 55°C for High speed (10Volts) if the module is more demanded, otherwise the fan runs continuous and silently at 5Volts.
It works well up to 4.0 ~ 4.5A max, but to play safe, I limit the current to 3.5 ~ 4.0A max for long term use as charging a car battery, when I see the temperature control can still turn off the ”fan blower” over the module - proving the cooling it still has thermal safety margin.
I hope it helps.
Thank you for sharing.
nice share
Very good testing and well explained .
I like this channel very much. Thank you. Your explanation is very good. Good luck sir.
The best thank you would be to subscribe and 👍 the video. it will help me a log. Thank you.
Good review, very detailed with all the information we need. Thanks Robojax
You are welcome. Here is my channel focused only on Power supply, chargers, battery and solar panel ruclips.net/channel/UCvT_lj6oLAqq60s7VUcTczQ
I love your videos so much. 🙏
then you might like my other channel dedicated to Power, Battery etc called WattHour www.youtube.com/@watthour thanks.
@@robojax it’s so funny I just realized last night that I must have been watching Robojax and Watthour videos for months now interchangeably without realizing they were separate accounts! 😂 I was wondering, why did you decide to change / create a whole new account though ? Your videos are the best, so thorough!
@@robojax l’m subscribed to both! ❤️ I got one of these modules btw and love it. They are so cheap I think I’m going to put them on all my devices for voltage protection (I noticed my ESP connected to it runs cooler now too). Now I could use your wisdom : in either wiring two in parallel to support powering two 5V 3A 8 x 32 matrices on one power supply. Or finding one converter that can handle both panels. One of these Xl4015 modulels comfortably handles one panel. It handles two panels, if the displays are not full brightness. I’m a little concerned that someone might boost the brightness an hurt this buck unless I have two running. Either that or do you have a favorite converter that handles 6A? (searching your videos frantically now 😆)
Appreciate hard work and attention to details. Thank you!
Ma Sha Allah,Thanks 4 Uploading Excellent Video👍
B Blessed 🤲💓 India⚘
I always use the 1/3 Amperage principle to protect the circuit from voltage and amperage drift. Plus overheating. At 5 Amps maximum rating according to the datasheets, that calculates to 1.666 amps continuous voltage and amperage output without drift. It has worked for me for 25 years without any problems. It lets me sleep at night. LOL
Again, that is a silly way to design for such low margins, and since you did not design this, is not applicable to these or other over-rated generic chinese modules. Nothing you own, including the computing device you watch this on, is designed to that wasteful standard.
@@stinkycheese804 How many Degrees do you possess? Do you even have a grade 12 Diploma? How much design experience in electronics engineering do you have? Don’t judge me when you don’t know what you are talking about.
I see Ahmad I click like. Quality content!!!
Thank you very much.
As the battery gets charged, regardless if you limit the current, the battery asks for less current because the battery potential gets higher, while the batteries internal resistance remains the same.. requiring less current as the battery gets charged.
If there's no current limit the battery will ask for whatever the battery can handle depending on its internal resistance, ... So for the mp1584 buck it cycles and heats up.. but when I get near 100% the converter provides us current and gives a constant charge.. shows no more cycles of heating up.. I see this on the meter.. therefore I know that it is heating up and shutting down and then heating up again charging fast..
Buck converters taught me about battery charging.. buck converters are awesome because there's plenty of sources of free voltage.. batteries, solar panels, hand crank generators, wind turbines, hydro turbines, ...
The buck converter takes these voltages and lowers them for us.. absolutely awesome. Love inductors and capacitors!!
Thank you for sharing.
Best thing on internet for this module.
Thank you.
Dear Brother Greetings of the day
Fabulous way to describe each and every thing with database
I appreciate your efforts
I am working in central university in India
I am glad you like it. Greetings from Canada. Ahmad
@@robojax welcome brother
Wow the most comprehensive XL4015 review I've seen. Also I guess I really need to put a heatsink.
I am glad you liked it. yes you should put heatsink.
@@robojax But a heatsink will not help the coil, which also seems to get hot. Does this mean active cooling in needed?
with small modifications, I managed to make it work at 10-15 amps, the xl4015 does not overheat, the output is very stable
Thank you for the detailed review and providing chapters!
Could have a "setting output voltage" chapter, as that was what I was looking for. But ended up watching the whole thing :)
I wish you you had provided it like 2:30 so I would added it. with over 500 videos very hard for me to watch and get the time now.
Thank you for the measurements.
very useful and detailed test! thanks for your time!
ottimo lavoro grazie 👍👍👍
Deserve million views
very exhaustive, cleared all my doubts,
good to know it was useful.
Great review! Thank you
Awesome video💞 love from Pakistan
👍 😊 ❤️
@@robojax tu zinda bashee
khoosh amadeed Pakistan door na ast..
Excellent review. Thank you
This is the way to do a review. Thank you
Dramatically fantastic. Thanks
so kind of you. thanks
assalamualaikum. love from malaysian
walaikum salaam, ❤️ from Canada.
Excellent
Hello!
Nice to see you.
I like your videos they're enjoyable.
Hello, nice to meet you on my channel. I am pleased you liked my tutorials and reviews.
Very interesting your posts in general and this latest one is no different. You did explain very well everything, but the Efficiency equation at time 7:50 could be clarified in terms of P-out (Vout x Iout) x Efficiency, or for required Pin, as I understood from your talk. Regardless of that I’m very glad to see all your effort to share in a very practical way and check its limitations. *** (integrating here past replies in 2020): P_out = P_in x Effic. Or P_out = (V_in x I_in) x Effic. Or still required P_in = P_out / Effic., that is what I meant.
Thank you for sharing your work and comment. Even though I have written "Input Power" and "Output Power" I should have been explicit to eliminate ambiguity. I can't fix that now unless to remove it that portion or re-upload the video again.
This happens to everyone.
And I just realized that I did a mistake too: P_out = P_in x Effic. Or P_out = (V_in x I_in) x Effic. Or still P_in = P_out / Effic.
Please subscribe to my channel and thumb up the video. It is greatly appreciated. 🔔 😊
@Richard, I agree with you, thanks for noticing. Furthermore, I had observed this and made a reply to Robojax about 1 year ago, clarifying this mistake from my side, when I also elaborated the equations referring to Vout and Iout. To avoid similar misalignment of posts, I edited and supplemented my original post with the intended equations.
Very nice explanation. I bought it yesterday and follow your steps. The module works flawlessly. But one thing you missed the Li-ion, Ni-cd, Ni-mh battery charging test. Can you explain it ??
This is not a charger. This is just a step down converter. If someone want to use it as charger, it has to be monitored constantly as this will damage the battery. Thank you for not skipping the ads and keep watching it. This will help me a lot.
But description shows it👇👇👇
This Buck converter can be used as a normal step-down module with overcurrent protection capability for various applications. It is used as a charger for various voltage lithium batteries, batteries, nickel-cadmium nickel-hydrogen batteries (battery packs), for solar panels, wind turbines, etc. This buck converter can also be used as a high power LED driver module.🤔🤔🤔🤔
Great ROBO 👍
Does the input current fluctuates whenever you are changing the output current with constant output voltage?
If the LM358 accepts 3 - 32 V at its input, why do they need to power it by means of an 78L05 linear regulator? I know my electronics knowledge is limited, but I understand that for such reason the converter requires around 6.5 V to regulate or work in constant current mode (I have a few of these and tested this), due to the voltage drop of the 78L05; whereas without the 78L05 or with it bypassed the module should work in constant current mode with 5 V or less (I haven't tested this). Is this so due to unenlightened design of the module, or maybe I am not understanding something? 🤔
Thanks for these videos.
Thank you for this video! I purchased from Eiechip on Aliexpress some boards XL4015 5A for charging a lithium battery with two resistors and the output voltage is adjustable but the output current is not following the process shown in your video @ 12:44! Which component could be defective on these boards? The same issue with all 5 boards I purchased.
super nice! thx
cool review, thank you a lot!)
You are welcome. Thank you for not skipping the ads and keep watching them. This will help me a lot.
👌👍
What model power supply do you use and where to buy worldwide?
I have this module. When i input 12v dc then instantly full charge LED lights up and no output voltage develops. Is my device faulty? What's the possible problem?
Si lo uso con un panel solar para cargar una bateria tengo que ponerle diodo en la salida ?
excellent review
Great and informative video . Can you tell me if I have to use the current part of the buck if I want to use a 7.4 lipo reduce it down to 6v for an rc transmitter . The transmitter has 4 1.5 v AA batteries in it. And if I do what do you suggest I set it at . Your help is greatly appreciated 🙏
Thank sir best tutorial for this module!!
Only a question.
can i short output without load for set current or need a little load? Thanks
You are welcome. yes you can.
Excellent testing.
Thank you! Cheers!
Thanks.
Very informative.
Thank you
You are welcome.
Should I use anti-backflow diode at the output during charging the battery ?
Hi, I looked at page 3 of datasheet for XL4015 datasheet.lcsc.com/szlcsc/1811081616_XLSEMI-XL4015E1_C51661.pdf and the output SW pin and it can't get current entering that pin. so it seems safe. but I have not tested it.
I wanted to buy this but now im so disappointed, glad I saw your video
I am pleased.
during the current limit setting, such at 14:29 , why the input power = 30.1V*0.1A = 3W, but the output power(almost a shorted circit) = 15V*1.6A = 24W, please help me to understand what happend....
oh suddenly I understand why: when outputing as a shorted circit, the output voltage dropped vastly 'cause the shorted circit has a very low resistance to hold a voltage, so the output power = * 1.6A =
what is a better cheap alternative ??
adapter 16V 4,5A to 12v how many amps it can withstand ? Will it withstand 4 amps load 12volt ?
I have the model with the blue PCB, it has only the XL4015 with a heatsink mounted, Schottky rectifier(SS54), no LM358, no L7805, no TL431,
I mistakenly connected it in reverse polarity and it damaged, please what component will likely be faulty that I can replace and get it back working?
The XL4015 chip is the most likely component to be damaged by reverse polarity.
@robojax I guess I'll have to buy a new one then. Thank you
Hello can i use this for my DIY wind turbine generator?
Great video
I have old Drill batterys Ni-Cd (12 volt) I will change to Li-Ion batterys .Can I use none modifications apply old DC charger 's voltage to new BMS circuit or I must add to old battery adapter, Currrent constant like in this video?
(Of ourse I will add a LED for charged indicator to old Ni-Cad adapter's output section)
Thank you
Hi, Yes it will charge. you just need to set maximum voltage and maximum current and charge. please see my channel on energy called WattHour youtube.com/@watthour
Pls tell me why are there 2 hole near the input block connecter?
What's its use?
Yo connect an LED
Thank you for your reply to my before question.
Could you make a video about solder station controller project(if have with PID contoller more great) in nowadays.
I want make a soldering Iron and controller with Arduino. I want make like JBC soldering station (I will buy Solder handle+Solder Pins others I will make)
I sure so much hoobyst like this project also I want learn details from expert like you
Thanks for the review! Do you happen to know what the two holes are for located next to the positive input? One is connected to the negative input, and the other appears to connect to pin 4 (VC) of the XL4015 , although that's just based on my continuity test. Any idea what that might be used for?
sorry I kept this comment to reply but I did not see the module to reply. Perhaps someone else replies to you.
How do you think it will perform if you have 12v to 19v input and charge 3s lipo with 4a (or is possible to charge it to 5a?) Thanks!
Do you know if there is a clip-on heat sink to suit the regulator chip
Great videos. Have you tried improving the converters by adding heatsink or modifying parts? That would be another great video.
Hi, Thank you for the comment. I am trying to show the input and output without changing. Because people buy it like this and they don't want to add something to it. if do that then the title should be "how to increase the current output"
@@robojax Yes your current videos are really great, and I like that you make a review. I also buy based on your videos. But a separate video for improving or modifying them is also very good content. If you are capable of making those contents, that would be really great. You have the tools to do those and measure. Hopefully you could continue to make great reviews and also add a separate video on how to modify or improve those products. Like increasing power (adding heat sink, replacing parts with higher capacity, changing coils with thicker width, etc).
Id like to really achieve the advertised specs, say make the device really reach the 3A instead of just 2A.
Thank you for your comment. I will keep that in mind in future videos. or I will make another video for this . I will see if i get the time.
Very well explained, how about xl4016
Thank you for this tutorial. My question is...can I achieve 18v and 1.7amps with this module. I have a 4s10p lithium battery pack and would like to power up a boom box stereo that takes DC 18v and 1.7 amps to power up. And if not, what would you recommend. Thanks again.
Good day sir i just want to ask where did u connect the 3 small wire the red,black and yellow?
This is very bias information and I never missed to explain it. Please watch the video fully
Good video, but what about the leds? there are 3 on the board. Greetings
Thanks again for your videos!
What are your tools - like the screen on the left, some Windows software connected to RIGOL? Can you show your bench also and spend little time explaining about your tools?
You are welcome. Yes it is the software that is coming with Rigol Electronic load: www.rigolna.com/products/dc-power-loads/dl3000/ .
sure I will try to make a video on my Studio-Lab in the future.
I have added the link to the Thermal Camera and the electronic load in the description of video.
Hello, what about the plated holes near the conectors?
They are also connected to VIN and VOUT? Can I solder a pin there and solder this board to my own board?
if they are labeled with - and + , yes you could solder the wires there.
Output voltage goes zero after 1 time use with 14.28v dc adapter My 5 xl4015 module not Output voltage showing how to know what component is faulty?
Can this be used to "charge" a battery cell (1s1p) ? I have a PSU that outputs 30V 5A, and I want to output max 4.2V and max 1.7A (datasheet of 18650 cell says charge at 1.7A max). In other words, can this adapt constant current and constant voltage, or does this module just simply cuts the voltage (as seen in your video) if my load draws more than the set current limit? Basically, can this be used to push current safely into a battery cell at specific max current? Thanks for the review.
Yes that work perfect. Whit more cells in series, keep in mind a BMS will be needed tough.
Can i use this module to charge lead acid 12c battery or it is for use with lithium only?
Change anything
Is this good for limiting the current going through a robotic arm with a 4-6V servo motor (20kg)?
You can set current limit but you have to know and every time you wanted to change it, you have to set it. Yes it will work
@@robojax great help, thank you
Module corner hole screw size please
Thank you!!!!
You're welcome!
Apa kah modul ini bekerja bagus ,untuk solar cell 10wp mister??
?
I wanted to use this for charging my Homemade 12.6V 16AH Li-Ion Battery which can charge at 1C. Now when I connect that to a 12V 10A Power Supply, it keeps triggering the Over Current Protection of the SMPS and thus the repeated trigger significantly reduces the charge time. Would this device provide a constant 5A current to the Battery Pack?
At 1C, the battery can take upto 16A for charging but can this device limit it to only 5A?
Hello, you should set the current limit. you can learn how to charge a battery from this video ruclips.net/video/4-SujloLcXU/видео.html
I don’t like positive buck converter the positive voltage is burn the mosfets like a resistor even with bootstrap driver I use only negative buck converter circuit I use a higher 5 amp motor with 12 amp surge and the negative buck work very cool
Thank you, nice work, I have a question regarding the mobile thermal camera is it able to capture videos?
You are welcome. That is Seek Thermal Compact Imager connected to my phone www.amazon.ca/dp/B00NYWAHHM
Rigol DSC3031 Electronic load: www.rigolna.com/products/dc-power-loads/dl3000/
I have added these links in the video description.
what's the lowest current it gives ?
when it has CC (constant current) it can make current even zero. so any value from zero to the rated current.
Review is so cool.. plz continue to do more reviews. I have 2 questions :
1. am trying to use XL4015 for 24V to 7V in a 2A load, is it need heat sink?
2. Can we conclude if the output watt is more the IC heats nd if the VIN - Vout is large the inductor heats up?
Thanks. 1-I answered that with test in the video. 2-Yes I demonstrated it. I don't remember anything abou this video. I have to watch to answer it. So you watch without skipping and I can assure you , you will get answer.
so do you think it would actually be able to handle 5 amps?
I have tested and shown the maximum current
can i use these to charge lithium ion batteries cuz charging lithium ion has 2 phases ccv
I am confused about how to make a diy 48v 20amp charger (@1c) using a 1kw dc power supply.
you can but this will over only 3A to 5A. please watch this where I've explained the voltage and current of chargers ruclips.net/video/0mOqpCfAdy4/видео.html
Hello can we connect Solar plate to the input of this board to charge battery from output ??
hello and yes you can. the output must be set lower than lowest voltage of the solar panel in order to get the expected voltage.
Does it have short circuit protection?
If it has , I should have mention it.
It has. A short circuit Limits the Current to the maximum that is set.
if I set the voltage to 4.2 and limit current to 0.5A can i charge 18650 with this?
Yes you can.
It would be nice if you had summarized the results V/A/ efficiency rate and instead of showing every test you would stress test at maximum settings ro show design failures of the converter and ways to improve it!.....
Which way do you turn the potentiometer? I just got one of these and the voltage out isn't changing
Watch the video and do not escape I have explained it. You have to turn it 10 or 15 times .
Thank you for the great video. Can you please explain the functionality of the LED-s on this board? Thank you.
I believe I mentioned it. Power LED and CC LED. When the current reaches to set value, the CC LED will turn ON. I don't remember the color, I have shown it in video.
3 dead out of five I received. One burned up on the bench as I was grabbing my meter the smoke was released so something bad on the boards.
Can give 5v dc input
I don’t remember. Must watch and see.
Can you please tell me how to adjust CC on this converter with only a multi meter without load and with load. Thank you
Looking for the same info, when I connect my meter leads in the output, I can't seem to messure more than 0.6 amp, regardless of if I turn the current screw ?
Good review
Hi Zasa, I have seen your comment on my many videos. Thank you for that. Recently RUclips made easy for creators to see who is subscribed 🔔 and who is not, and I was surprised 😮 to see you haven't subscribed🔔 to my channel.
I could not get the output below 1 amp, even with the CC pot rotated counterclockwise until it clicks.
this is strange. you should be able to even set it to zero. I am not sure, it seems the components must have different value.
ရှည်လိုက်တဲ့ ဗီဒီယို😊
A yellow core is often iron powder core. If it is then the XL4015 is likely a fake because an iron powder inductor is no good at 180kHz. Check the switching frequency on an oscilloscope, it is likely 50-70kHz, in which case the XL4015 is a fake.