Great recovery by Brooke. Trying to get that clip expended so much energy, but those last few moves that she still managed to pull off is what kept her in 1st position in the end.
Is it only me or going from 60pts to 100pts for the last moves in lead seems a bit excessive? I mean big respect to Aberto and Lee for toping the lead, but finishing 1st and 2nd in a combined without toping one boulder seems a bit odd to me.
It's just the points at that hold. Each hold is worth points. The numbers typically are placed when the value of each hold changes. Early holds are 1 point each, then 2, 3, etc.
@@bobaduladole8358 I totally understand that last holds are worth more points (lead/bouldering). But giving 40pts for the last moves in lead seem to be too much. I mean, reaching the 60pts mark (which almost all climbers did) gives more point than topping 2 boulders, which only one climber did. Doesn't seem fair too me.
Format does favor lead alot. 1 attempt in boulder costs 0.1 points. So in theory you can top all boulders with 40 tries vs flash them all and have 4 points difference. Same 4 points as a single hold on the last few holds on lead. IMHO 1 single hold in lead should be worth less then 40 attempts in boulder.
Just FYI, the full rebroadcasts and highlight reels are on the olympics website/app. They have commentary, etc. I'm shocked they didn't put a link in the description.
They dumped all the highlights at the end of the event so the full replays are buried. But if you keep scrolling and loading more videos in the list. They're all there.
Miho or Futaba - a shame (and actually unfair imho) only one can earn the ticket. I'm torn for sure but ... ChampMiho already an Oly medal so ... G/L to both. The 2 climbers per country rule does leave a slot for another climber tho.
Great recovery by Brooke. Trying to get that clip expended so much energy, but those last few moves that she still managed to pull off is what kept her in 1st position in the end.
Is it only me or going from 60pts to 100pts for the last moves in lead seems a bit excessive? I mean big respect to Aberto and Lee for toping the lead, but finishing 1st and 2nd in a combined without toping one boulder seems a bit odd to me.
It's just the points at that hold. Each hold is worth points. The numbers typically are placed when the value of each hold changes. Early holds are 1 point each, then 2, 3, etc.
@@bobaduladole8358 I totally understand that last holds are worth more points (lead/bouldering). But giving 40pts for the last moves in lead seem to be too much. I mean, reaching the 60pts mark (which almost all climbers did) gives more point than topping 2 boulders, which only one climber did. Doesn't seem fair too me.
bad format
@@severincoleon4129 I think topping 2 boulders would normally be average though, considering someone could have topped 4 then it seems ok
Format does favor lead alot. 1 attempt in boulder costs 0.1 points. So in theory you can top all boulders with 40 tries vs flash them all and have 4 points difference. Same 4 points as a single hold on the last few holds on lead.
IMHO 1 single hold in lead should be worth less then 40 attempts in boulder.
As one of the volunteers in OQS in Shanghai, I get such a strong feeling of privilege.😊
Just FYI, the full rebroadcasts and highlight reels are on the olympics website/app. They have commentary, etc. I'm shocked they didn't put a link in the description.
Oh wait, they did.
@aarongittelman2508 there's only the highlights, which is the same as this. Do you have the link to the actual full Women's Lead Final replay?
They dumped all the highlights at the end of the event so the full replays are buried. But if you keep scrolling and loading more videos in the list. They're all there.
You do have to sign up, but you can just use a Google or fb account, so minimal commitment.
@aarongittelman2508 I have an account, I'll try! Much appreciated!
Why was the women's lead not complete? Very disappointed by the Olympics.
Yeah!! And this is missing the commentary as well. Someone's not doing their job well.
it just says highlights though
@@xJacquelineBx Yes but the original live coverage didn't include the women's lead part.
What do you mean "not complete"?
I think there was an issue with the RUclips live but if you go to the Olympcs website you can watch the replay of the lead finals for free
Where is the commentary?
With how the 2020 Olympics commentary went im glad i don't have to listen to them
Love it!!!
Def shows the benefit of being shorter on the men's route...poor adam :)
Go Brooke!
Miho or Futaba - a shame (and actually unfair imho) only one can earn the ticket.
I'm torn for sure but ... ChampMiho already an Oly medal so ... G/L to both.
The 2 climbers per country rule does leave a slot for another climber tho.
Who qualified in the men's category?
Traduzir
Zulauf Turnpike
Wow the rebroascasts for climbing are so bad...
Combining speed with lead and boulder is DUMB
Just lead and boulder combined this time around. Speed is it's own event.
@@Hayduke0 I'm glad for it. Speed is its own beast. Bouldering and Lead are at least somewhat comparable/similar.
100% agree