So glad this was on RUclips! Hopefully the Ifsc is able to give some tips in the future for graphics during the stream. Would love to see the athletes stats when they come out to climb and the scores displayed more frequently throughout the broadcast. I also missed the graphic during the lead section showing their score increase as they climb and how far they are from the high point. Small things like that really add to the viewing experience. Still very glad to have to have the free stream on RUclips though
Glad this was on youtube since one of the biggest organisations in the world apparently can't manage uploading this to the website. I wish I'd know this was here earlier as I couldn't watch the men's live on that useless website either.
I dream of a day when an actual climber is the director in charge of climbing competition records. Might actually get to watch the climber climb the whole time.
Great coverage. I do have a suggestion for scoring. Keep the score up throughout the Lead portion so you can see how they are placing in the standings. It makes it more exciting.
Despites the awsome content and working youtube-livestreams, I‘ve never seen a worse programmed homepage than olympic channel. Literally everything connected to livestream, login and similar is not working at all.
Loved everything except the drone shots on lead. Maybe one drone shot in the early section but putting far away drone shots during critical sections of the climb is some of the most annoying camera work I've seen. Especially annoying when we couldn't see anything about McNeice's fall because it was during the drone shot
I actually like the combination of boulder and lead better than the traditionnal only boulder or only lead. I can't but find the points system very engaging, as a spectator.
I get really annoyed at the camerawork during these. When there are two people climbing, the climber climbing the earlier boulder tends to be the stronger climber (for example Mia on W2 and Miho on W1, or Erin on W3 and Brooke on W2). I mean this with absolutely no offence to the other climber, but it’s how the previous rounds have placed them! Why then do the camera people then choose to focus on the climber climbing the later boulder when they both go up? We keep missing the stronger climbers’ starting moves because of the bad camera work. Like the later climber didn’t even manage to zone on a given problem and you’re going to choose to miss half of Brooke’s or Miho’s flash? :/
@@DeadlySoapbox I'd rather than they just show one climber (ie. bouldering) at a time but obviously show all the climber's boulder attempts, as they do on lead, and save close ups for replays. Agree close ups during the actual climbing is annoying as you miss the complete move.
How is the camera work so bad for this? In some instances, we get 2 athletes and 2 cameras, sometimes we get 1 camera and 2 athletes. When this happens we completely miss what the other is doing for no reason. We also never get side on shots that really show the viewer how bad the angle of the wall is. Everything looks flat from this angle, you can't appreciate the extreme angle of the wall working against them.
I’ve come to enjoy the familiarity of Matt commentating, but it’s like he can’t help himself from commenting on Zhilu Luo’s facial expressions - among several other Asian climbers like Ai Mori or Yuetong Zhang - every time she comes out. Not everyone grins like the Americans or wears their emotions on their sleeve (or face) and sometimes a neutral expression shouldn’t be read as anything deeper than a neutral expression! Particularly for the younger female athletes who are still getting used to media attention, hearing commentators scrutinize your face all the time seems like it’d be really uncomfortable and annoying tbh even if they have a lighthearted attitude about it. I’m only taking the time to write all this out because I actually do like Matt, but it’s still a microagression even if it’s phrased like a compliment. TLDR we don’t need a narration of whether someone is smiling or not. Please keep the commentary about the climbing!
He chatted about Annie Suanders also keeping her thoughts and feelings to herself and not showing much on her face. I think its a normal part of commentating because commentators do discuss the mental and emotional conditions of the athletes and some athletes are more expressive due to either personality or cultural differences around facial expressions.
Because of her high score from Shanghai, the other half of the qualification series. They've made it reallt difficult to keep up on all of that unfortunately
In fact, all the climbers except the french men knew whether they were qualified before the final. For the men, there’s 3 French climbers which could get the ticket, and which 2 get to go (due to max 2 per country) gets decided by their placement in finals
The qualification is based on placement in the two events. Once you are in the final you cannot get below 8th place, which was enough for her to qualify
The Boulder round was incredible to watch!! such amazing athletes 🤩 Lead was long and boring as usual. Don't understand how it's scored. Would be cool to see a live updating score during Lead, might make things more exciting.
Wait whaaaat. Lead is the easiest scoring system to understand. The higher you go, the more points you get. Basically every move gets you 1 point. ( And there are signs on the wall, to see where they're at)
Is it literally just how high you reach on the wall? As in, the height of the wall is divided into 100 points and you get a point for each % you reach? This sounds like a very dumb system. Or is it maybe somehow the number of holds used? Why are 0.1 points sometimes added? Pretty sure it's not 1 point per move as you suggested. The scoring system in Bouldering is much easier to understand.
It is 1 point per hold up to 10 marker, then 2 points to 30 marker, 3 to 60 and then 4 points per hold to the top. 0.1 is if you move towards the next hold but fail to grab it
There are 50 holds per route. The first 10 holds are worth 0 points. The next 10 are worth 1pt each, holds 21-30 are 2pts each, holds 31-40 are 3pts each, and the final 10 are 4pts each. This way the reward ramps up the higher you get on the route.
They're all amazing! But what should we call Miho and Brooke? and what do we call Janja? World first class and class of her own? みほさんすごいですよ！興奮してオリンピックを見るのを待っています
It is so sad that it is so complicated to come act the semifinal livestreams. I started watching (on the app) but had to split it up due to work and now I can't find it anymore.
There is speculation that this will be the case for the LA Olympics. Climbing is fighting to get more medals, which allows for dividing the disciplines
Matt seems to continue to insist athletes cannot downwards dyno when the ruling is about a climb being set with a downwards dyno. since a world cup years ago when Sean McColl co-commentated and noted an athlete attempting a downwards dyno but this having not been the intent by the route setters, and Matt wondered if the athlete would be penalized. feel as though Matt has made this same suggestion in a few competitions over the years, and when he is meant to provide utter basics about establishing starts, scoring, clipping draws in sequence, etc., to then have this easily misconstrued phrase is just strange to me.
It is "artsy". Reminds me of the Ultimate frisbee filming at the Wolrd Games. They would just follow the frisbee in flight zoomed up so close that was all you could see on the screen. Not where in the field it was going to, or anything useful.. haha
Is something wrong with Hannah Schubert's throat? She always sounds like there is some kind of phlegm in her throat and she's about to cough when she speaks. I can't unhear it now that I noticed that.
Laura rogora looks waaaaay too underweight to compete, i thought the ifsc went and did something about being healthy enough to compete as a result of doctors of the ifsc sounding the alarm bell on the growing problem of female climbers having more frequent eating disorder than any other sport?
Or she's just built that way. I was like that when I was her age and I ate half a horse for breakfast every morning. They responded already to the concerns that the athletes brought forward and are doing red blood cell checks.
Ai Mori was robbed. She is only 154cm. There were ZERO intermediate holds for use by short climbers. Those boulders were IMPOSSIBLE for her. If it had been a level playing field (pun intended), Janja would have earned a silver. Before a route gets the okay for inclusion in a competition, the route setters should demonstrate that it can be completed by climbers of all sizes. Tall climbers of far lower ability than Ai had no problems with those problems.
"Before a route gets the okay for inclusion in a competition, the route setters should demonstrate that it can be completed by climbers of all sizes." They do. Brooke is only an inch taller than her and had no problem crushing the boulder round. Ai's problem isn't her height, but her lack of power in her legs. She could work on this like Brooke did after the Tokyo Olympics, but has so far chosen not to.
Already qualified for Janja, if I recall Oriane is also qualified. This series is just for qualification slots for the olympics. (And some prize money)
@@johnathantaiI think qualified from the previous IFsC competitions. Not sure how it works exactly, I just know that several climbers already qualified beforehand because of their placements in those competitions
Can't wait for the actual games to begin; just hope the filming and commentary improves (note to commentators: please don't state the obvious such as that ridiculous chat about "what's the difference between bouldering and lead?" - let idiots look that up online; actual climbers DON'T WANT TO HEAR THIS DROSS!
its so sad and uncomfortable to see a climber with obvious eating disorder. I thought the ifsc was going to try to address this issue? (as highlighted by Janja). come on ifsc.
I am not enjoying the announcers. Some of their commentary was distasteful and they laughed at the athletes often! Please have different announcers next year!
the IFSC explained the reason it was all combined at the first games was because the IOC only allowed one medal for climbing, so they decided it was better to combine all events instead of excluding a discipline
@@captainjacobkeyes6733 but then they made speed a single discipline, keeping bouldering and lead climbing as one... If you don't want to have 3 medals, than get rid of speed climbing.
I guess they separated Speed because of how different it is to the others. While bouldering and lead climbing can be comparable, speed climbing is almost an entirely different sport.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Climbing starts at 35:00!
more like 2:40:00
@@bagtearatio
THANK YOU
FFS! Love you tine stamp people ‼️‼️‼️‼️
Thank you!
So glad this was on RUclips! Hopefully the Ifsc is able to give some tips in the future for graphics during the stream. Would love to see the athletes stats when they come out to climb and the scores displayed more frequently throughout the broadcast. I also missed the graphic during the lead section showing their score increase as they climb and how far they are from the high point. Small things like that really add to the viewing experience. Still very glad to have to have the free stream on RUclips though
Glad this was on youtube since one of the biggest organisations in the world apparently can't manage uploading this to the website. I wish I'd know this was here earlier as I couldn't watch the men's live on that useless website either.
you can find the full streams in the replays, after you scroll down past all the highlights videos... hard to find, but they are there
I dream of a day when an actual climber is the director in charge of climbing competition records. Might actually get to watch the climber climb the whole time.
The medals were decided by climbers. The total medals were decided by the olympic committee who have no idea what they are doing.
@@notapplicable7292
deee famous young laydy podcaster, talks wiid daaaat
usuall beautiful hoarsness tone of voyce !!!!
Mia Krampl: Gold for Best Hugger 🥇
So glad this was uploaded to RUclips
Great coverage. I do have a suggestion for scoring. Keep the score up throughout the Lead portion so you can see how they are placing in the standings. It makes it more exciting.
Despites the awsome content and working youtube-livestreams, I‘ve never seen a worse programmed homepage than olympic channel. Literally everything connected to livestream, login and similar is not working at all.
and full replays hidden between highlight videos 🙄
Could not agree more, the interface is so bad
I literally just opened this comment section with the intent to leave the exact same feedback.
@@m.lucy123like have u even been able to find the replay lives? cause in my case y haven't been able at all hahah
@@alexia3521that's a weird thing but on RUclips live replays stay in the live section even days after the diffusion 🤷♂️
Same on every channel
Such an awesome comp, W4 definitely had the most absurdly impossible looking live I've ever seen
I love Miho❤
Me too. Great athlete and gorgeous as well.
I love the full length versions without any cuts!
Erin!! WOW! so impressive.
1:01:42 1:22:20 1:42:30 2:00:37 3:12:03 서채현 선수
Loved everything except the drone shots on lead. Maybe one drone shot in the early section but putting far away drone shots during critical sections of the climb is some of the most annoying camera work I've seen. Especially annoying when we couldn't see anything about McNeice's fall because it was during the drone shot
Lead observation starts around 2:35:40
Climbing at 2:40:00
Very inspiring…. thanks you all 💐
Miho❤
I actually like the combination of boulder and lead better than the traditionnal only boulder or only lead. I can't but find the points system very engaging, as a spectator.
I get really annoyed at the camerawork during these. When there are two people climbing, the climber climbing the earlier boulder tends to be the stronger climber (for example Mia on W2 and Miho on W1, or Erin on W3 and Brooke on W2). I mean this with absolutely no offence to the other climber, but it’s how the previous rounds have placed them! Why then do the camera people then choose to focus on the climber climbing the later boulder when they both go up? We keep missing the stronger climbers’ starting moves because of the bad camera work. Like the later climber didn’t even manage to zone on a given problem and you’re going to choose to miss half of Brooke’s or Miho’s flash? :/
exactly!!!
Really wish they'd just use the split screen any time there are two athletes climbing 😮💨 Save the single shots and close ups for replays!
@@DeadlySoapbox I'd rather than they just show one climber (ie. bouldering) at a time but obviously show all the climber's boulder attempts, as they do on lead, and save close ups for replays. Agree close ups during the actual climbing is annoying as you miss the complete move.
So did someone qualify for the Olympics? Literally the most confused I’ve ever been
How is the camera work so bad for this? In some instances, we get 2 athletes and 2 cameras, sometimes we get 1 camera and 2 athletes. When this happens we completely miss what the other is doing for no reason. We also never get side on shots that really show the viewer how bad the angle of the wall is. Everything looks flat from this angle, you can't appreciate the extreme angle of the wall working against them.
Such a strong lineup of crushers!
I’ve come to enjoy the familiarity of Matt commentating, but it’s like he can’t help himself from commenting on Zhilu Luo’s facial expressions - among several other Asian climbers like Ai Mori or Yuetong Zhang - every time she comes out. Not everyone grins like the Americans or wears their emotions on their sleeve (or face) and sometimes a neutral expression shouldn’t be read as anything deeper than a neutral expression!
Particularly for the younger female athletes who are still getting used to media attention, hearing commentators scrutinize your face all the time seems like it’d be really uncomfortable and annoying tbh even if they have a lighthearted attitude about it. I’m only taking the time to write all this out because I actually do like Matt, but it’s still a microagression even if it’s phrased like a compliment.
TLDR we don’t need a narration of whether someone is smiling or not. Please keep the commentary about the climbing!
He chatted about Annie Suanders also keeping her thoughts and feelings to herself and not showing much on her face. I think its a normal part of commentating because commentators do discuss the mental and emotional conditions of the athletes and some athletes are more expressive due to either personality or cultural differences around facial expressions.
can someone explain why brooke knew she’s going to Paris already yesterday so before the qualifier final?
Because of her high score from Shanghai, the other half of the qualification series. They've made it reallt difficult to keep up on all of that unfortunately
Ah thank you! Really hard to keep up with this system
In fact, all the climbers except the french men knew whether they were qualified before the final. For the men, there’s 3 French climbers which could get the ticket, and which 2 get to go (due to max 2 per country) gets decided by their placement in finals
The qualification is based on placement in the two events. Once you are in the final you cannot get below 8th place, which was enough for her to qualify
Thanks for the stream.
The Boulder round was incredible to watch!! such amazing athletes 🤩
Lead was long and boring as usual. Don't understand how it's scored. Would be cool to see a live updating score during Lead, might make things more exciting.
Wait whaaaat. Lead is the easiest scoring system to understand. The higher you go, the more points you get. Basically every move gets you 1 point. ( And there are signs on the wall, to see where they're at)
Is it literally just how high you reach on the wall? As in, the height of the wall is divided into 100 points and you get a point for each % you reach? This sounds like a very dumb system.
Or is it maybe somehow the number of holds used?
Why are 0.1 points sometimes added?
Pretty sure it's not 1 point per move as you suggested.
The scoring system in Bouldering is much easier to understand.
It is 1 point per hold up to 10 marker, then 2 points to 30 marker, 3 to 60 and then 4 points per hold to the top.
0.1 is if you move towards the next hold but fail to grab it
There are 50 holds per route. The first 10 holds are worth 0 points. The next 10 are worth 1pt each, holds 21-30 are 2pts each, holds 31-40 are 3pts each, and the final 10 are 4pts each. This way the reward ramps up the higher you get on the route.
I am watching from India.
They're all amazing! But what should we call Miho and Brooke? and what do we call Janja? World first class and class of her own?
みほさんすごいですよ！興奮してオリンピックを見るのを待っています
There are events where the top climbers can compete and events where Janja is participating.
55:27 puff
1:28:37 the way she completes, looks back and smiles :D
Is that Katsu from B-Pump in the crowd 1:18:12
yep
Luo Zhilu, so strong!
2:40:00 lead starts
Go Brooke!!!
It is so sad that it is so complicated to come act the semifinal livestreams. I started watching (on the app) but had to split it up due to work and now I can't find it anymore.
I hope Matt Groom will be commenting on the Olympics
I hope Hannah Schubert will not
@@MartinaSchoppe Hannah did great, what are you smoking
Alex honnold is on the commentary team. I don't know about anyone else
@@greghelm843 wow! That's amazing
Yeah, I loved Hannah.
On boulder 1, why was everyone matching the hold with the jib? Aren't the two holds touching and therefor both considered part of the finishing hold?
I would like they divide boulder ftom lead. Is a diferent sport. Lead shoul be more like a real rock. I miss watching Kim Jaim.
There is speculation that this will be the case for the LA Olympics. Climbing is fighting to get more medals, which allows for dividing the disciplines
The cutting in between people was so horrendously off, doesn't bode well at all for the olympics.
3:07:31 Miho san
The Asian guy with red top and no shirt was my favorite part.
Matt seems to continue to insist athletes cannot downwards dyno when the ruling is about a climb being set with a downwards dyno. since a world cup years ago when Sean McColl co-commentated and noted an athlete attempting a downwards dyno but this having not been the intent by the route setters, and Matt wondered if the athlete would be penalized. feel as though Matt has made this same suggestion in a few competitions over the years, and when he is meant to provide utter basics about establishing starts, scoring, clipping draws in sequence, etc., to then have this easily misconstrued phrase is just strange to me.
Its a shame some boulder courses clearly benefit taller people. The opposit does not happen so frequently.
Who are the presenters for this competition? Anyone knows?
Matt Groom and Hannah Schubert
Looked like the rope was pulling Miho before that fall
Yeah you can kind of see her exasperated expression on the way down.
Camera work is truly awful...
all the ifsc streams have been terrible this year
This is not a IFCS climbing competition. It is ran by the Olympic team
It is "artsy". Reminds me of the Ultimate frisbee filming at the Wolrd Games. They would just follow the frisbee in flight zoomed up so close that was all you could see on the screen. Not where in the field it was going to, or anything useful.. haha
Can't find the semi final
I watched that on the Olympia App. I searched a little but it is hidden between the short highlight videos☺️
@@emmimatty1053 can't find the final
I mean the Olympic football finals
I am talking about 2020 Olympics football finals won by Brazil
Is something wrong with Hannah Schubert's throat? She always sounds like there is some kind of phlegm in her throat and she's about to cough when she speaks. I can't unhear it now that I noticed that.
Lets Go!!
Let's Go !! USA
How do they talk to each other? What language do they all speak?
Has lead been on yet?
yes
yes :)
Who are the commentators?
Laura rogora looks waaaaay too underweight to compete, i thought the ifsc went and did something about being healthy enough to compete as a result of doctors of the ifsc sounding the alarm bell on the growing problem of female climbers having more frequent eating disorder than any other sport?
Or she's just built that way. I was like that when I was her age and I ate half a horse for breakfast every morning. They responded already to the concerns that the athletes brought forward and are doing red blood cell checks.
Always has been. But everyone is ignoring the issue.
also noticeably just running to the walls and visibly agitated when she isn’t successful compared with other athletes
most livestream comments are just straight up sexist/objectifying. y'all can't help yourselves huh
let's go Brooke!!!
1:55:11 can we call this a smile??? I think we can (:
Johnson Matthew Martin Sandra Thomas Brian
Ai Mori was robbed.
She is only 154cm.
There were ZERO intermediate holds for use by short climbers.
Those boulders were IMPOSSIBLE for her.
If it had been a level playing field (pun intended), Janja would have earned a silver.
Before a route gets the okay for inclusion in a competition, the route setters should demonstrate that it can be completed by climbers of all sizes. Tall climbers of far lower ability than Ai had no problems with those problems.
"Before a route gets the okay for inclusion in a competition, the route setters should demonstrate that it can be completed by climbers of all sizes."
They do. Brooke is only an inch taller than her and had no problem crushing the boulder round. Ai's problem isn't her height, but her lack of power in her legs. She could work on this like Brooke did after the Tokyo Olympics, but has so far chosen not to.
Who are the commentators, guys?
Matt Groom and Hannah Schubert
@@crimpchimp Thank you :)
@@crimpchimpis hannah related to jakob?
@@lonesome3958yes. Siblings
@@Tiarawatches ah aight thx
wait where's Janja and Oriane?
Already qualified for Janja, if I recall Oriane is also qualified. This series is just for qualification slots for the olympics. (And some prize money)
@@InterwovenElements ahh I see thanks, did Janja and Oriane partake in a different qualification round? or are they just automatically qualified
@@johnathantaiI think qualified from the previous IFsC competitions. Not sure how it works exactly, I just know that several climbers already qualified beforehand because of their placements in those competitions
Janja qualified after winning the 2023 World Championships and Oriane after winning the European qualifier in 2023.
@@professor_chestnut thanks!!
Christopher Miami Florida ✨📚🎭📚 cheers 🥂🎉
🇺🇦🇺🇦❤️❤️
Can't wait for the actual games to begin; just hope the filming and commentary improves (note to commentators: please don't state the obvious such as that ridiculous chat about "what's the difference between bouldering and lead?" - let idiots look that up online; actual climbers DON'T WANT TO HEAR THIS DROSS!
Taylor George Thomas Betty Lopez Joseph
I feel so bad for the Italian climber ..not on the same level as everyone else at all
Please talk about skin more.
its so sad and uncomfortable to see a climber with obvious eating disorder. I thought the ifsc was going to try to address this issue? (as highlighted by Janja). come on ifsc.
Content ruined the idiotic camera angles
I am not enjoying the announcers. Some of their commentary was distasteful and they laughed at the athletes often! Please have different announcers next year!
👍
Italy always getting cooked
go on ukraine, go on kazekova
🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸💪🏾
erin wezZ anothet tale
to blessfully be told ....
what
Laura always looks to be in desperate need of cheeseburgers
R
Bouldering and Lead Climbing should be two separate disciplines. Speed should not even exist.
agree completely about separating Boulder and Lead! or at least treat each score separately instead of combining them into one score
the IFSC explained the reason it was all combined at the first games was because the IOC only allowed one medal for climbing, so they decided it was better to combine all events instead of excluding a discipline
@@captainjacobkeyes6733 but then they made speed a single discipline, keeping bouldering and lead climbing as one...
If you don't want to have 3 medals, than get rid of speed climbing.
I guess they separated Speed because of how different it is to the others. While bouldering and lead climbing can be comparable, speed climbing is almost an entirely different sport.
Why can't the commentators stop fawning over British climbers? I guess its okay to have a favourite, this is outright cringy!!
Taylor Sharon Anderson Jose Lopez Jose