Great video! I am in the midst of setting up my Ibanez AE that has been in the closet for some years. Retired now, so I have time and interest in learning how to make it my own. Keep up the great instructional dialogue!
Thanks, I’m glad you had a chance to check it out. Good luck with the set up. Ibanez Guitars are well-built so you should be in good shape. Thanks for watching.
I bought a set of HOSCO nut files made in Japan and there is like 10 or 12 of them that came in the kit. And they’ll do every size slot you will ever need. I paid like 130 for all of them. They came in a set. Some of the best money I’ve spent. No more fxckin around with welding tip cleaners or needle files that aren’t really able to make clean, proper size and shaped slots. BTW, nut files are rounded at the business end and make a rounded slot which is important for a ROUND string to lay into. Get the HOSCO’s. They are way better priced than StuMac. And you get more files. (Japanese steel) is as good as American steel. And way way better than China steel.
Great helpful video... So I want to ask -- What's the big deal about knocking down the top surface of the bridge nut (filing and sanding it down)( AFTER you're satisfied with your new cuts? You''re done with your cuts ... You're at or near 16 thousandths on your 1st E string first fret, it feels and plays okay, and it sounds good ... why the extra filing and sanding?... And does this answer my own question ?.... (hahahaha) ... I now have that awful sitar sound resonating from my 1st E sting when fully tuned and played open. Fretting at first, or any fret, and no sitar sound. Knocked down to Open G, playing something sweet, or bashing away the Clash's version of I Fought The Law, no sitar, no Ravi Shankar. It's only when back to standard tuning and true E and played open that I have that sitar sound. Is that a symptom of.... what?.... string not articulating ONLY off the fretboard side of the nut?...more than one articulation point?... i have a replacement set of saddle and nut on the way, just in case I buggered up this nut (which I don't think I have, at least not yet... I still have more to file down. I'm at about 20 thou for the 1st high E off first fret).
thanks for the question. I read in Dan Erliwine’s book on guitar repair. The StewMac guy. He wrote that after getting the nut depth to where you want, level out the top of the nut so the strings aren’t sitting in a deep canyon. You want about half of the string showing in above the groove. Might help with twangy sound.
@@TheAngryMushroom Thanks for the response . Your vid here and also Randy Schartiger's w/ a entry-level Savannah are most useful w/ regard to measurements. I cured my issue. Not certain which caused it. The replacement bone saddle I installed which I assumed was 74 mm as specified in the adv was in fact somewhat shorter... about 71 .5 or so... and had slipped fully toward the treble side. Fixed/shimmed that with slices of wooden matchsticks at both ends, now it won't move. Also refined the cut of the nut for the treble E making sure to maintain the angle of the headstock so there is now only one true articulation point. Now Ravi Shankar sitar has left the building. I was 9 years w/o owning a guitar or even picking one up. 7 weeks ago again realized the urge to play. Rescued in a 'hardship' sale a entry-level Alvarez Regent Ac/ele from a father selling it for his son who had some challenges. Got replacement bone nut and saddle (2 sets) for it. Then also rescued a entry-level Rogue (intended now to be my dedicated Nashville-strung piece) from a woman who had two nicer pricier guitars which she wasn't playing, someone had given her the Rogue saying "here, this is a beginners guitar, lighter strings, should be easier." She didn't play that one either. Stored w/ string tensions loosened, flat on its back, it developed a down-bow. And 3rd string had cut into the plastic saddle. So it was not playable and barely tunable. Replacement saddle and nut on that were perfect fits, easy-peasy. (ain't no 45 dollar guitar no mo). On the Alvarez, the original plastic nut was not as easy to get off, and the replacement nut is a bit too tall. I should have noticed it before I glued it in, but didn't, assumed that since things were easy and straight-forward on the Rogue that that would also be the case for the Alvie. Lesson learned. So now I'm forced to work on those nut slots. Thanks again.
Digging the stories of guitar rescues. Sometimes I don't glue the nut down since I most likely will be fussing with it later. Really appreciate you taking the time to share your guitar adventures. I feel like the Alvarez is worth fixing up. Can we look forward to some video clips of your guitar rescues? @@JS-fd6jd
BOTH were worth fixing up. I was doing a short recording of how the Rogue sounded Nashville-strung for the lady i bought if off, and something -- out of I-don't-know-where -- just poured out. My brain, my intellect, was not involved in a 'decision' to 'do' what flowed out. It just happened, without conscious thought. It just happened. On ... or FROM ... a 'beginners' guitar that I paid 45 bucks for that was not playable. No, not thinking now of any more 'rescues.' Or videos. You and others doing YOUR videos own the turf and are making the 'rescues' possible. But now... going all-in and spending 15 bucks for a set of bone (replacing plastic) bridge-pins for both of these!
You're welcome and Thanks for the kind words. If you have a chance maybe let me know what were the good parts and what could use some improvement. Also what guitar subjects are you usually searching for?
I see. Tusk. As far as I know, and I’m not a lawyer or a wildlife expert, using real Ivory tusks is illegal now. Ivory was harvested for musical instrument production in the past long ago. There are knife handle makers that use fossilized mammoth tusks. Here’s an article about fossilized mammoth tusks I found online for guitar : Looks like TUSQ is a brand of hard material for nuts and saddles . I Learned something new today. Thanks again for the question. www.maurysmusic.com/fossilized_mammoth_ivory_saddle___todd_s_review?srsltid=AfmBOoqTW-_U6odshvbLfwvUeFqW8762fuV2BItwpxvwIFgZ5u7bNgtF graphtech.com/pages/black-tusq-xl-nuts
Prices vary so much from shop to shop. Not always is your lowest price the best option. Call your local music stores for recommendations for setups and repairs. Check the shop reviews online. To help narrow down the job you might need, use the chapter list in this video description for talking points so they don't try to up-sale you. Things like lowering the action, adjusting the truss rod, or re-shaping the nut.
A neck reset is a good recommendation. Beyond my experience level so far. I was able to make it playable with what I learned from books and online without destroying the guitar. Good idea for a video. My first neck reset. Appreciate the comment and thanks for watching.
It looks as if you are pushing the strings too far down into the bridge holes. You do not want the end of the string jammed onto the bottom end of the bridge pins. You want the ball end of the string to be pressing on the bridge plate, which is on the bottom of the bridge on the inside of the guitar. You do this by only inserting the string into the bridge pin holes about an inch and then inserting the pin partially into the bridge pin hole, and giving a tug on the string. You are looking for that point where the string slides up, locks on the bridge plate, and then the bridge pins can be inserted all the way in. If the string is correctly installed and resting against the bridge plate, you can actually take the pin out of the hole and the string will stay securely in place even with the bridge pin out. In your video, it appears that you have the ball on the end of the string all the way down to the bottom of the bridge pin. This not only keeps the string from properly vibrating, but will most likely bend and warp your bridge pins.
![Hunxho - Ball Forever [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nki9ZTF9Uls/mqdefault.jpg)
Great video! I am in the midst of setting up my Ibanez AE that has been in the closet for some years. Retired now, so I have time and interest in learning how to make it my own. Keep up the great instructional dialogue!
Thanks, I’m glad you had a chance to check it out. Good luck with the set up. Ibanez Guitars are well-built so you should be in good shape. Thanks for watching.
Love the amount of detail.
Thanks
thank you for watching
I bought a set of HOSCO nut files made in Japan and there is like 10 or 12 of them that came in the kit. And they’ll do every size slot you will ever need. I paid like 130 for all of them. They came in a set. Some of the best money I’ve spent. No more fxckin around with welding tip cleaners or needle files that aren’t really able to make clean, proper size and shaped slots. BTW, nut files are rounded at the business end and make a rounded slot which is important for a ROUND string to lay into. Get the HOSCO’s. They are way better priced than StuMac. And you get more files.
(Japanese steel) is as good as American steel. And way way better than China steel.
Good tip. Thanks for taking the time to share with us, and thanks for watching.
tons of great details in this video! i also like the on screen tips that are highlighted and typed. very well done !
Thanks for taking the time to review.
@@TheAngryMushroom q
Great, no-nonsense video. Question: Is string height measured from fretboard (wood) to string, or from the fret (metal) to string?
Measure from top of the fret crown to the bottom of the string. Appreciate the comment and question.
Excellent video.. i like your casually style. Lots of great tips. Thanks
Glad you enjoyed!
Fantastic video! Thanks for posting. 👍
Thank you so much
Great demo! Thanks a lot …
Thanks so much. Super fun rescuing these guitars.
@@TheAngryMushroom I will attempt to rescue mine by the help of your video ... again, thanks for the nice work :)
@@TheAngryMushroom ..
Great helpful video...
So I want to ask -- What's the big deal about knocking down the top surface of the bridge nut (filing and sanding it down)( AFTER you're satisfied with your new cuts? You''re done with your cuts ... You're at or near 16 thousandths on your 1st E string first fret, it feels and plays okay, and it sounds good ... why the extra filing and sanding?...
And does this answer my own question ?.... (hahahaha) ... I now have that awful sitar sound resonating from my 1st E sting when fully tuned and played open. Fretting at first, or any fret, and no sitar sound. Knocked down to Open G, playing something sweet, or bashing away the Clash's version of I Fought The Law, no sitar, no Ravi Shankar. It's only when back to standard tuning and true E and played open that I have that sitar sound. Is that a symptom of.... what?.... string not articulating ONLY off the fretboard side of the nut?...more than one articulation point?... i have a replacement set of saddle and nut on the way, just in case I buggered up this nut (which I don't think I have, at least not yet... I still have more to file down. I'm at about 20 thou for the 1st high E off first fret).
thanks for the question. I read in Dan Erliwine’s book on guitar repair. The StewMac guy. He wrote that after getting the nut depth to where you want, level out the top of the nut so the strings aren’t sitting in a deep canyon. You want about half of the string showing in above the groove. Might help with twangy sound.
@@TheAngryMushroom Thanks for the response . Your vid here and also Randy Schartiger's w/ a entry-level Savannah are most useful w/ regard to measurements.
I cured my issue. Not certain which caused it. The replacement bone saddle I installed which I assumed was 74 mm as specified in the adv was in fact somewhat shorter... about 71 .5 or so... and had slipped fully toward the treble side. Fixed/shimmed that with slices of wooden matchsticks at both ends, now it won't move. Also refined the cut of the nut for the treble E making sure to maintain the angle of the headstock so there is now only one true articulation point. Now Ravi Shankar sitar has left the building. I was 9 years w/o owning a guitar or even picking one up. 7 weeks ago again realized the urge to play. Rescued in a 'hardship' sale a entry-level Alvarez Regent Ac/ele from a father selling it for his son who had some challenges. Got replacement bone nut and saddle (2 sets) for it. Then also rescued a entry-level Rogue (intended now to be my dedicated Nashville-strung piece) from a woman who had two nicer pricier guitars which she wasn't playing, someone had given her the Rogue saying "here, this is a beginners guitar, lighter strings, should be easier." She didn't play that one either. Stored w/ string tensions loosened, flat on its back, it developed a down-bow. And 3rd string had cut into the plastic saddle. So it was not playable and barely tunable. Replacement saddle and nut on that were perfect fits, easy-peasy. (ain't no 45 dollar guitar no mo). On the Alvarez, the original plastic nut was not as easy to get off, and the replacement nut is a bit too tall. I should have noticed it before I glued it in, but didn't, assumed that since things were easy and straight-forward on the Rogue that that would also be the case for the Alvie. Lesson learned. So now I'm forced to work on those nut slots. Thanks again.
Digging the stories of guitar rescues. Sometimes I don't glue the nut down since I most likely will be fussing with it later. Really appreciate you taking the time to share your guitar adventures. I feel like the Alvarez is worth fixing up. Can we look forward to some video clips of your guitar rescues?
@@JS-fd6jd
BOTH were worth fixing up. I was doing a short recording of how the Rogue sounded Nashville-strung for the lady i bought if off, and something -- out of I-don't-know-where -- just poured out. My brain, my intellect, was not involved in a 'decision' to 'do' what flowed out. It just happened, without conscious thought. It just happened. On ... or FROM ... a 'beginners' guitar that I paid 45 bucks for that was not playable.
No, not thinking now of any more 'rescues.' Or videos. You and others doing YOUR videos own the turf and are making the 'rescues' possible.
But now... going all-in and spending 15 bucks for a set of bone (replacing plastic) bridge-pins for both of these!
I’ve been watching videos from fender to really good luthiers but yours is more enjoyable and informative. Thank you!
You're welcome and Thanks for the kind words. If you have a chance maybe let me know what were the good parts and what could use some improvement. Also what guitar subjects are you usually searching for?
Thank you, awesome!
you are welcome. Thanks for watching.
Absolutely great sir, thanks a million
You’re welcome. thank you for watching.
What is Tusq?
hi, thanks for the question. Not sure what you mean. Can you specify the time code of what you’re asking about?
I see this term used to describe the nut material in many cases and don’t know what this means…is this some kind of bone material?
I see. Tusk. As far as I know, and I’m not a lawyer or a wildlife expert, using real Ivory tusks is illegal now. Ivory was harvested for musical instrument production in the past long ago. There are knife handle makers that use fossilized mammoth tusks. Here’s an article about fossilized mammoth tusks I found online for guitar : Looks like TUSQ is a brand of hard material for nuts and saddles . I Learned something new today. Thanks again for the question.
www.maurysmusic.com/fossilized_mammoth_ivory_saddle___todd_s_review?srsltid=AfmBOoqTW-_U6odshvbLfwvUeFqW8762fuV2BItwpxvwIFgZ5u7bNgtF
graphtech.com/pages/black-tusq-xl-nuts
How much should it cost for a music store to do this?
Prices vary so much from shop to shop. Not always is your lowest price the best option. Call your local music stores for recommendations for setups and repairs. Check the shop reviews online. To help narrow down the job you might need, use the chapter list in this video description for talking points so they don't try to up-sale you. Things like lowering the action, adjusting the truss rod, or re-shaping the nut.
Isn’t the saddle too short to lower already? Doesn’t it need a neck reset?
A neck reset is a good recommendation. Beyond my experience level so far. I was able to make it playable with what I learned from books and online without destroying the guitar. Good idea for a video. My first neck reset. Appreciate the comment and thanks for watching.
It looks as if you are pushing the strings too far down into the bridge holes. You do not want the end of the string jammed onto the bottom end of the bridge pins. You want the ball end of the string to be pressing on the bridge plate, which is on the bottom of the bridge on the inside of the guitar. You do this by only inserting the string into the bridge pin holes about an inch and then inserting the pin partially into the bridge pin hole, and giving a tug on the string. You are looking for that point where the string slides up, locks on the bridge plate, and then the bridge pins can be inserted all the way in. If the string is correctly installed and resting against the bridge plate, you can actually take the pin out of the hole and the string will stay securely in place even with the bridge pin out.
In your video, it appears that you have the ball on the end of the string all the way down to the bottom of the bridge pin. This not only keeps the string from properly vibrating, but will most likely bend and warp your bridge pins.
Super glue and baking soda will Harding instantly & will look better.
This sounds good, will try it out. Haven’t heard of this one. Thanks!
Works great on the mandolin nut that needed new slots. Awesome tip, thank you.