HobbyKing Crusader 30E [Ugly Stik] RC Plane Build Review
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
- UPDATE: Video shows wing servos with output shafts installed opposite of each other. That's been fixed. They're both identical now.
This is the rcvideoreviews.com build review of the HobbyKing Crusader 30E. This plane is based on the old standard Ugly Stik. It is not the Durafly EPO flat wing bottom version. This is a built-up balsa and shrink covered ARF with symmetrical wing.
RCVR T-Shirts: teespring.com/...
HK Crusader 30E: hobbyking.com/...
Servos: www.amazon.com...
ZTW 60a ESC: www.amazon.com...
Prop: MAS 9x5 www.masterairs...
Battery: 4s2200
Sunnysky Motor: sunnyskyusa.co...
FrSky S6R: www.readymader...
![HobbyKing Crusader 30E [Ugly Stik] RC Plane First Look](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RzS9LsLjWUg/mqdefault.jpg)
![HobbyKing Crusader 30E [Ugly Stik] Maiden - UNLIMITED POWER! Sunnysky x2814 1250Kv](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/j_R-wec4LDA/mqdefault.jpg)
I just noticed your table top is laminate flooring!!! I did this too!!! Great flat cutting surface.
It's actually wood paneling, but I like the laminate flooring idea too. I picked this material mainly for aesthetics.
I have some spare vinyl plank flooring maybe put it on my table(s)
I can't wait to fly it. Can't believe you bought the last one in the states. You really are amazingly lucky.
I have a nose for finding the last plane. It's a thing. Statistically speaking we're nearing miracle territory.
Hobby king has now totally sold out on this plane.
Hmmmmm....We may have to run an experiment. I have another HK plane on the way. Let's see if I can do it again!
If you fly where the weather gets to 100 degrees plus, I recommend that you open a bottom hatch for the ESC. I have two planes with the battery and ESC configuration as shown, and both have had overheating problems during the second half of the flights even with good airflow.
This plane has been around forever and it’s a wonderful plane to fly if you want to get into aerobatic fun it’s a good beginner plane to start with. It will do anything you want it to, inverted flight is easy and predictable. Year’s ago I modified a ugly stick and put a extra landing gear on top and did inverted landing’s with it what fun it was showing up at the field with landing gear on top and bottom of the plane 😅 the first inverted landing was a show stopper 😂 it’s to bad this plane didn’t come in a box with just wood and build it yourself it’s a fun plane to build and easily put together. For the old timers that like two stoke motor’s a hot little 25 size is perfect. I just had to put in my two cents worth and tell you how fun a ugly stick can be. Happy flying everyone
Thanks for sharing your knowledge about it. These do become very comfortable to the pilot after very little time.
I am returning to simpler ( 4 channel) balsa arfs ( I have lots of left over stuff from crashes). Like you, I am tired of the old Tower ARF's due to the servo slots being for std size servos and overall, they are heavy. Exception would be the Kaos 60.
This plane seems to meet my requirements well. I have everything I need to complete, I can easily take off the wings for transports, the out of pocket costs are minimal, and it should be relative easy to fly and land.
This is a solid plane design with the exception of the control horns. Whatever material they're using for horns is not good. Use Dubros and be happy because you won't have to repair/replace. We've seen the same issue on 3 different planes. Otherwise, this is a great basic plane and yes, I love simple no flap, no retract 4 (5 for aileron flexbility) setups.
@@RCVideoReviews I plan to use control horns in my stash. I will replace anything I think is substandard. I hate to lose a $180 plane cause I was too cheap to spend another 10 bucks.
I always put the servo connector on the servo arm and Z bend in the control horn. I see you do it the other way round. Not that it matters I guess. Great video, thank you.
Thanks Brian. I try to put the quick connects where I can make adjustments without taking the plane apart. That’s why I normally put them on the control horn.
Can't wait to see this in the air John i feel this will be a fast ride 😁🛩️🔥👍
It's only a 9x5 so it won't be particularly fast, but, it should be able to pull a tree stump out of the ground and into the air.
I'm not sure how much difference flipping that wing servo made but I'm shocked that you installed it like that with your CDO and all :)
was wondering if you used all of the parts that you linked in this video description and what other motors would you suggest ? Thanks much and I sure do like the way you do videos
Yes, that parts list is what I used on this plane. Any 300w motor that can swing a 9" prop with a 4s battery will work ok on this plane. I LOVE the motor I used on this one. It's a hoot.
Hoping for some help - I bought the EPP Ugly stick (not the balsa) and the same Sunnysky motor. Problem I have is that the supplied Sunnysky X motor mount doesn't seem to match the existing drilled firewall holes. Did you have to alter the motor mount at all, please?
It's been a while since I built that plane....I don't really remember what happened with the motor install.
@@RCVideoReviews Thanks for the reply in any case 👍🏻
You can fill misplaced motor holes with epoxy and re-drill to fit. I had an ongoing battle with tower planes using only the rimfire pattern which is not standard. So I did this a lot more than I care to remember.
@@RCVideoReviews Thanks - I think I'll have to try similar. I was hoping for a straight swap out but it was too much to hope for a 'standard' mount.
Motors are in dire need of standards across the entire hobby.
Could be a stupid question, but what glue do you use where? Thinking of this being my first balsa kit and I'm lost :/
For balsa usually it's thin CA for smaller pieces, medium for bigger pieces, and epoxy where strength is essential (firewall area).
John, did you add in down and right thrust angle ? or just mount straight to the fuse.. thanks so much for time and expertise
The firewall has thrust angle built-in. I did not shim any further. I can also say, given I have probably the most extreme case for proper thrust angles that it flies fine with the stock alignment.
Thanks so much John
For the horizontal stabilizer, did you screw it in or glue it with epoxy
I did not glue with epoxy. I believe I just screwed it in and I ca glued the vertical stabilizer.
You believe, or you did? Lol
Would a .15 glow engine fly this well?
Honestly, I haven't flown a glow engine since the late 90's so I don't have first hand knowledge of how the glow engine sizes perform. I can tell you this plane has 900w which is way more than it needs. Anything you can fit with the equivalent of 300w would be ok. I don't think they had glow in mind with this design though.
Yes but a .25 would be better
I recently put together the slightly smaller 1100mm Ugly Stick EPO foam from HK...
I needed to add about 4 ounces of nose weight somewhere to get the CG correct, however the battery compartment ( flip up hatch ) is very tight ,
even with a smaller 2200mah LiPo.
Does anyone have any creative ideas on the best solution for where exactly to add this needed extra weight...or the best type of lead weights to use.
I currently have been adding a moldable sack of BB's in front of the battery after strapping it down, but fearful of any inverted flight.....I am also open to using the exterior nose area as an option ...any creative and helpful ideas are most welcome...thanks
So a couple of questions:
You said, "even with the smaller 2200mah LIPO". The book says that plane takes a "3S 11.1V 2600-3000mAh". The pictures indicate the battery is installed well forward of the CG.
My question is, are you using a 2200 because that's what you have? Seems if you use a 2600-3000 your problem would be solved.
Now, since I hate it when I ask a question and don't get an answer, here's what I would do given the scenario:
1) I would look for opportunities to remove weight from as far back on the tail as possible. The tail arm has a long moment and removing just a little weight back there may help you avoid adding weight up front.
2) For weights, I use lead wheel weights from Amazon: amzn.to/3yy2Odn If weight must be added, I try and place at as far forward as I can to minimize the amount I have to add.
3) Since you have foam, don't be afraid to cut a pocket in the foam to add the weight. Then cover it with some hot glue.
4) If you can't cut a slot and hide it, my final suggestion for that plane would be to stick it directly beneath the firewall and cover it with a piece of black or white tape.
@@RCVideoReviews ...yes I have many , many 2200mah 3S batteries and only one 3300...I find nose weight still required even with the 3300, so I am willing to just fly with the 2200's and add some nose weight somewhere.....not sure exactly what is meant by removing some tail arm moment ( I am a beginner ) , but if you can tell me more in detail about what to remove, I'll try it....thanks
You don't remove the tail arm moment. The tail arm moment is a description of the amount of leverage the very back of the plane has on CG because the arm--the length between CG and the tip of the tail is very long (long lever). So by removing just a tiny amount of weight from the tip of the tail, it's like ADDING a lot more weight to the front of the plane. Remember playing on a teeter totter when you were a kid? You moved the teeter totter so the heavier kid had a shorter arm and the lighter kid had a longer arm. So just look on the back and see if there is anything you can take out (foam supports inside the fuse) etc...Taking a small amount of weight off the back is like adding a lot of weight to the front.
@@RCVideoReviews Ok....I understand now...I will look into what can be removed ...thanks much.......
Love to b at field when you "launch " this rocket. Let me know!
I will let you know...
Make a rig that points the nose straight up, you'll have a VTOL.
I've thought about it :)
LOL
Might have to see if I can conscript Chris to hold by the wingtips pointing straight up.
You are so kind and careful not to upset the manufacturer, however, its so sad that manufacturing has become so blatantly half-assed. And todays flyers are no longer true builders. No when some noob build snarf he calls himself a scratch builder. I cant believe how truly crappy these arms have become.