today's date: 5-14-23. Just changed mine on 2006 jeep grand cherokee two days ago. Used a long funnel, trimmed the top to fit the cv joint, then boiled a pot of water, removed from heat and tossed in boot for 20-30 minutes. Worked great. Be sure and turn boot inside out, take large end and pull over funnel all the way, then when you pull boot back toward you, it unfolds itself, outside out...
I noticed when changing my front brakes that my cv boot rubber was ripped a bit...not Completely but non the less it's ripped...and when I turn tight turns it sometimes makes a noise
The tool is definitely a easier way to go, but you installed a new boot on a birty and contaminated bearing. I like the tool for a fast fix but I'll still remove the joint Clean,inspect, and re lube it.
Nicely done. You can cut that extra width off with scissors. Also, you should band the bigger end first. You need to use a skinny flat screw driver and burp the skinny end before you band it. A lot of air gets trapped when you fit the boot over the joint.
Did I see the ABS pick up ring on the Hub end? it appeared to smothered in the additional grease & Grime from use & the repair?? would this impede on the ABS functionality? I suspect it could be a potential safety issue?
Do not do this. It's guaranteed to over stretch the new boot possibly splitting it. Remove the whole drive shaft which is easy, then remove the outer, or indeed inner CV joint which ever has the failed boot which is easy. Use a soft drift and a lump hammer to knock it off, throughly clean and regrease the CV joint provided it is ok, then slide on new boot along drive shaft NO STRETCHING. Attach the metal fasteners and refit to vehicle. Job done, NO STRETCHING. You do NOT need this expensive tool which will only knacker the new boot and severely shorten it's life.
No way would I ever hit the threaded end of the axel with a hammer, maybe a brass hammer, never a hardened steel hammer. yer asking for screwed up threads or an expanded end. But hey.
Or.... just replace the whole Axle assembly and get Two new boots, two new cv joints and a warranty that will replace the whole thing the next time the boot tears. Your almost all the way there just to do this boot anyway. And it is a TIE ROD END,,,, not track,
Remove track rod end. Remove lower ball joint. Remove axle. Simples! Everyone else removes the vertical connecting bar and the brake assembly!! You've just shown you don't need to! Or am I missing something??
today's date: 5-14-23. Just changed mine on 2006 jeep grand cherokee two days ago. Used a long funnel, trimmed the top to fit the cv joint, then boiled a pot of water, removed from heat and tossed in boot for 20-30 minutes. Worked great. Be sure and turn boot inside out, take large end and pull over funnel all the way, then when you pull boot back toward you, it unfolds itself, outside out...
Thank you!
I noticed when changing my front brakes that my cv boot rubber was ripped a bit...not Completely but non the less it's ripped...and when I turn tight turns it sometimes makes a noise
what’s the water for?
Thank you very much i just replaced my cv axil boot on my minivan three days ago using your trick with the cola bottle to extend the tool
can you tell me about the trick?
The tool is definitely a easier way to go, but you installed a new boot on a birty and contaminated bearing. I like the tool for a fast fix but I'll still remove the joint Clean,inspect, and re lube it.
Exactly
Nicely done. You can cut that extra width off with scissors. Also, you should band the bigger end first. You need to use a skinny flat screw driver and burp the skinny end before you band it. A lot of air gets trapped when you fit the boot over the joint.
Bro wtf this would have saved me so much time, so many of times😩
Would only work for soft boots that don’t last long. Hard plastic boots will not stretch like that
Bowl of warm water and always clean grease away from the boot seating faces before putting clips on
Very good work done big brother, you are having so much fun watching me too
If one doesn't have one of those clamp thingy is it adviseable to use a zip tie?🤔
Did I see the ABS pick up ring on the Hub end? it appeared to smothered in the additional grease & Grime from use & the repair?? would this impede on the ABS functionality? I suspect it could be a potential safety issue?
Just wipe the grease off so debris doesn’t collect around it. It’ll be absolutely fine
Very good work friend ☺️
What is the name of the boot spreader used? I have already bought 2 on line and neither one worked.
It's been 2 years, hows the silicone boot holding up for you?
how much psi is needed?
My friends, what price an mechanic want to change an CV BOOT in USA AND Europe ? Some can reply me ?
about 70$ usd.
Cool nice job
Price of boot machine and name and where to get
Hitting end of shaft with welding hammer risky business
I came across a comment that said a flexible boot is required with this tool. Not every boot will work
If going the easy route why not just use an easy boot?
ни рулевой ни шаровую можно было не откручивать а открутить только амортизатор и все нормально вытаскивается
Nobody does this anymore axle shaft is 50 bucks last one i did was in 1993
Do not do this. It's guaranteed to over stretch the new boot possibly splitting it. Remove the whole drive shaft which is easy, then remove the outer, or indeed inner CV joint which ever has the failed boot which is easy. Use a soft drift and a lump hammer to knock it off, throughly clean and regrease the CV joint provided it is ok, then slide on new boot along drive shaft NO STRETCHING. Attach the metal fasteners and refit to vehicle. Job done, NO STRETCHING. You do NOT need this expensive tool which will only knacker the new boot and severely shorten it's life.
No way would I ever hit the threaded end of the axel with a hammer, maybe a brass hammer, never a hardened steel hammer. yer asking for screwed up threads or an expanded end. But hey.
Our brand would like to invite you to test our products for free, how can we get in touch with you?😄
This is a dead practice.
Or.... just replace the whole Axle assembly and get Two new boots, two new cv joints and a warranty that will replace the whole thing the next time the boot tears. Your almost all the way there just to do this boot anyway. And it is a TIE ROD END,,,, not track,
Remove track rod end.
Remove lower ball joint.
Remove axle.
Simples!
Everyone else removes the vertical connecting bar and the brake assembly!!
You've just shown you don't need to!
Or am I missing something??
goes over ring tone lol
redacted lol
i just use split boots no bother