'i'm no handiman, so i would never attempt this...but i've been a professional video producer for near 30 years and have done many 'how-to' videos like this including a custom kit for CHASSIS ENGINEERING in west palm beach, and many others of this type. your presentation, production values, EVERYTHING was SPOT-ON EXCELLENT! even though i will not try anything like this (i can't screw in a light bulb), i watched the whole video...the voice-over did not drag at all, so it was a very comfortable watch-- WELL DONE, and thx for posting, i'm sure a lot of mod-ers will appreciate it-- :D
Wow! Thank you so very much for your input on our videos! Lance does put a lot of work into them and truly hopes they are helpful and informative to everyone. We get all kinds of feedback regarding these videos, some good, some bad. This absolutely made our day! Have a great one!!!
@@BlueCollarBobbers I am not a fan of bobbers, and a Rebel bobber would be way too small for me. I have mine set up with a backrest, luggage rack, and saddlebags. But this kit made it possible for someone my size to ride the little Rebel without the pain caused by being all scrunched up. Be aware that unless you have a drill press, drilling the holes straight will likely be the hardest part. It is very difficult to drill holes perfectly straight through something round unless it is held firmly in place. It would be nice if it came with the holes already drilled.
This is the best instructional video I have ever seen. On any topic, seriously. The attention to detail and background information was unequaled. I only wish my videos were this good. Thank you again. P.S. I don't drive a rebel, they are too small for me. I am 6'3". 215#. But, I did watch the whole video. Quite entertaining too. Made me laugh a couple of times. Thanks
I did another one of these a couple months ago. I DID NOT use the JB Weld. I installed the brake arm assembly in the jig, clamped the jig to a perfectly level platform on a drill press, and slowly drilled both holes, using a lot of WD-40 on the drill bit. I then used grade 8 screws and lock nuts. It's solid as a rock. The bolts are the strongest part. Not using the JB Weld made it a LOT easier, plus you can take it apart if for some reason you need or want to.
I absolutely love these forward controls! My 2014, 250 Rebel shifts so much smoother now, and even easier shift into neutral(it was always a buggar before) I'm only 5'9", and my wife is 6'3"...we both love the feet more forward it's way more natural and comfortable feeling. Plus with having a surfboard rack mounted to the right side of the bike it's a lot easier to place the right foot down (safely) to the ground at stop signs when heading to surf with board in the rack! (Picture is a couple years before forward controls, and other mods)
Ok, several comments here. First of all, my kit did not come with the little spring and the little concave plate that attach to the bottom of the brake arm using the front brake arm extension bolt. Instead I received a piece of paper that said that it was not necessary. I haven't had a problem, but in my opinion it would be nice to have that spring in the front. The Rebel 250 brake arm is already very long and heavy, and extending it and adding the extension pieces makes it even longer and heavier. I may fabricate a way to install a similar spring to put a little more upward pressure on the front of the brake arm. Also, this video, and the piece of paper show Nyloc nuts on the bolts that go through the brake arm. I did not receive any Nyloc nuts, just regular ones. You can get Nyloc nuts at any hardware store. The most difficult part of this job is cutting and extending the brake arm. The concept is simple, but there are a couple of issues. The large bolt that goes through the rear of the brake arm and the stamped steel jig is not quite large enough in diameter, and allows up and down play in the rear of the brake arm. You could wrap some tape around the bolt once you put it through the hole in the jig, so it fits tightly in the brake arm, I chose to put wood shims between the bottom of the jig and the rear part of the brake arm to push it up as high as it will go and hold it there before snugging up the nut on the bolt. Leave the shim/spacer in place so the rear of the brake arm does not move downward while you are cutting it. I also found that the two screws that are used to hold the brake arm in place don't do a very good job, and allow some movement. First, put a nut on the center screw, run it all the way up to the head, then place the screw with the nut on it in the center hole of the jig, and put another nut on the back side of the jig and snug it up. That will hold the brake arm the correct distance from the back of the jig. I chose to make a small flat bracket out of a small angle bracket from a hardware store. I enlarged one existing hole in it, then drilled another. They are exactly the same distance apart and same diameter as the top and bottom holes near the center of the jig. I put it on the outside of the brake arm, with both the top and bottom screws going through it and then through the top and bottom holes in the jig. This holds the brake arm much more securely in place while cutting it. I did have to use slightly longer bolts than the ones that come in the kit. The one place where it would be really easy to mess up is drilling the holes through the brake arm where the dimples are. For some reason that is not shown in the video. Remember, you are drilling through the black tube, the brake arm, and a SOLID piece of aluminum inside the black tube. I DO NOT recommend trying to do this with a hand held drill. It is almost impossible to get the holes straight up and down that way, and they are very likely to come out crooked. They may still work, but won't look very good. I used a drill press, and a very high quality drill bit. If you use a drill press, make sure the plate on the drill press is completely level. You don't want to drill the holes at an angle. Take your time and drill slowly, keeping the drill bit lubricated. WD-40 is fine for that. The final part is the nuts that go on the very ends of the support rod, on the outside of the flat metal plates. I chose to use stainless steel acorn nuts instead of the open end nuts that came with the kit to make it look a bit better. Also, as far as adjusting the rear brake, I put a piece of 2x4 under the sidestand, then use a small scissors jack that came with a car, place it under the right side of the swing arm, and raise it so the tire just clears the floor. You can place the front wheel against a wall, or put a clamp on the front brake lever to lock the front wheel if you are afraid the bike might roll off the jack. Now, with the brake a bit loose, spin the rear wheel by hand, tighten up the brake rod nut a little, and spin the wheel again. continue to do this until you feel some resistance in the rear wheel. At that point, the rear brake is slightly too tight. Back off the adjustment just to the point where the wheel spins freely. That is the correct adjustment. You should not have to press very far on the brake pedal to apply the rear brake. If the chain needs to be adjusted, do that first before adjusting the rear brake. If the chain was already adjusted properly, you won't need to loosen the rear axle to install this kit. Overall I am satisfied with this kit. I'm 6' with a 32" inseam, and riding the Rebel any distance was quite painful. I'm an old guy, with bad knee and hip joints and arthritis. This kit put the pegs, brake, and shifter in just about the perfect place. I no longer need to sit between the front and back seats. To do it right does require the proper tools and some degree of mechanical inclination. I am a recently retired professional mechanic, hot rodder, and drag racer. I have built a lot of cars, so I am used to fabricating parts and have all the necessary tools. I thought about welding the brake arm parts together, but that would have required removing some of the paint from the black tube, and would have ruined some of the chrome on the brake arm. It would have needed to be completely dechromed and painted or powder coated, but would have made drilling holes and putting bolts through it unnecessary. It feels fairly solid, but it does have more flex in it than having the pegs in the stock location. Having slightly thicker plates and a larger diameter support rod that goes between the side plates would likely help with that.
Sorry for being late with this response. If you would like the spring, let us know. We found that the spring took some of the "feel" from the brake lever.
@@cherylwise3764 No problem. I fabricated my own spring setup. The brake pedal felt sloppy and even rattled a bit without it. But thank you for your response.
I love all of the BCB mods and have started adding a few to my daughters 06 rebel but this one seems way pricey for what you are getting. I literally just finished this mod on my daughters bike and although I had some old linkage laying around that I was able to use, even if I had to buy that, the whole job would have cost under $40.00. As it is I was able to complete the whole conversion for a grand total of $5.15 for two pieces of 2x1/4 flat bar cut at 8 inches long and a 1 foot piece of 5/16 round stock to use as a slug for the brake pedal. The only thing I had to farm out was getting a buddy to weld the slug in place. As I said all of your stuff is awesome but I think you are pricing this conversion kit out of range of a lot of people. The jig for cutting and glueing the brake pedal is WAY overkill and I'm sure is what a lot of the cost is for a one time use piece.
I worked as a fleet services mechanic for 40 years (now retired) and back around 2008 I bought a 2004 Rebel 250. I'm 6' with a 34" inseam, and quickly noticed that it was way too cramped. I fabricated my own version of this kit, using nuts, bolts, and steel stock lying around the shop. Rather than lengthen the brake pedal, I used another shifter as a brake pedal that pivoted on the bracket I made, used a long rod that went from the shifter pedal to the shaft that the oem brake pedal attaches to, and fabricated a bracket to connect it to that shaft. It all turned out very well. BUT. At the time I had access to a machine shop and a welder. I'm sure I could cobble something together at home that would work, but it wouldn't be as nice as this kit, or what I fabricated before. So when I bought a brand new 2016 Rebel (last year for the real Rebel) I decided I wanted it nice, so I used this kit. I have been very happy with it. I wish it was available in chrome, but it still looks and works fine. I am fully aware that I am a bit too big for the Rebel, but I have bad knee and hip joints and severe arthritis, and the little Rebel is so easy to ride and get on and off of. I will likely keep it for the rest of my riding life. I got it new for several hundred $$$ under msrp OTD, so I don't mind spending a little money on it.
Love the bike for bombing around (and running to work), not the foot controls, looking forward to improving my riding comfort. Can't wait to upgrade, will follow up after I receive/install them.
Thank you very much it a very best iDea.I searching to do that along time for my long legs trouble.I would like to shared this to my FC Rebel Thailand.
Hi BCB, My 1998 Honda Rebel has rods instead of the tubing for the brake pedal. What should I do to extend the brake pedal? Picture of the brake pedal and linkage is sent to gmail Thanks
Hello I recently purchased this kit and I am having a lot of trouble with the shifter. It's installed correctly like shown on the video but it isn't shifting correctly. I've adjusted it many times, sometimes it's having trouble going into first gear, sometimes trouble going in to neutral and also having trouble shifting up to 2nd, 3rd, etc. Getting frustrated. Any help?
Hi, the troubles you are having may be because of the angle of the lever that is on the motor. If you refer to the video I show the angle on a drawing. The lever should be facing down or slightly to the left or right. Ours ended up facing a tad to the left or around 7:00 o'clock. The angle of the shifter should also be in about the same position. You can send a picture of what you have also and we will get right back to you. Just email to bluecollarbobbers@gmail.com Thanks so much, Lance at BCB
APosey22 1st problem, shifter not in the lowest setting BEFORE disassembly, then you have to scribe 2 points, 1 on the shifter 2 on the casing where shifter arm connects so both go back into same position, or you will always be in wrong gear, always.
@@BlueCollarBobbers Before removing the shift lever that goes on the shifter shaft coming out of the engine, I used an electric engraver to mark both the lever and the end of the shaft, so it will go back together EXACTLY the way it came apart. One spline off can cause problems. I don't advise using a felt pen to mark it with, it is likely that the ink will come off while you are working on it. An engraved mark is permanent, and can be used any time you need to remove the shifter lever from the shifter shaft. As was shown in the video, the angles of the lever attached to the shifter shaft and the lever attached to the shifter itself is critical. It must be almost exactly perfect. If it isn't, it will affect the shifter "throw". NEVER use the threaded rod to adjust shifter height. IF that needs to be adjusted, it must be adjusted by repositioning the shifter lever on the shifter shaft.
around 8 minutes in, you talk about the aluminum rod having some kind of slot to keep it from pushing back out of the brake, but it doesn't seem to stay in even in your video. has there been any issues with people's brakes coming undone from doing this mod?
Hi Louie, the epoxy has a tendency to temporarily seal the tube diameters. Once you push on them a few times and finish the assembly there aren't any other issues. Once it's in the fixture, and the epoxy cures, it's there for good. Thanks so much, Lance @ BCB
Now, THAT was an excellent video! Quick question: is there some reason this wouldn't fit the pre-'89 models? Different bracketry on the frame or something???
I have a 1986 Rebel 250. What modifications will need to be made to this kit to make it work for that model? Is there a kit in the works for the early Rebels?
Hi Ben, we have been looking for an older Rebel but haven't had much luck. As soon as we get one, we are going to design forward controls and side covers as well. Keep checking back with us and we'll be sure to post something!
I have a 1987 rebel cmx250....if you are interested in buying it plz lemme know...it's just sitting right now, which is a shame cuz it's fun to ride.... runs well just needs a front left foot peg bracket (casting broke), which you cannot find anymore... so a kit for forward controls would be awesome!!!
Wow! I got 22 minutes into the video before reading comments. I could have save 22 minutes if I had read them FIRST! Love the idea but is useless on my '87 Rebel. :-( Good video though.
Honda changed a ton of things from the 1985-1987 Rebels when they came out with the 1996-2016 Rebel. Way more than most people probably realize. While they look very similar, they actually share very few parts. I prefer the looks of the original, especially the chrome side cover, battery box, and pullback handlebars. I wish they had carried those over to the newer model.
Hi, the green exhaust wrap is just our black that I painted. You can use any paint. I used engine enamel. It's fun to play with the wrap!! Thanks so much, Lance at BCB
+Joel C. Hi Joel, we don't currently offer them for anything older than 1989. We have had a lot of interest so possibly one day we will be able to make them!
Aw man I hope so! I was able to fine me an '86 20,000 local miles for a killer price and even though its a nice ride i would love to stretch out my legs some... you sure yr '89 Rebel kit wouldn't fit? the really haven't changed throughout the years
There is no such thing as a Rebel 500. There is a Rebel 250 that was sold in the U.S. through 2016, and Honda made a Rebel 450 during 1986-1987. A 125 Rebel was available in Europe.
Javier Reyes ¿Está usted preguntando dónde comprar nuestros kits ? Usted puede ordenar en nuestra página web bluecollarbobbers.com o puede llamarnos al 801-676-7889 o envíenos un email a bluecollarbobbers@gmail.com Gracias!
The 1986 frame is COMPLETELY different from the 1996-2016 frame. Look at a 1985 frame and it should be obvious why it won't fit. It would be difficult to make something like this for the 1985-1987 Rebel 250 because of the differences in the frame and the way the kickstand mounts.
This guy is a rookie, you never use wd40 on anything because it has a water base to it, so now you are introducing rust to begin it's job, REALLY, also he doesn't tell you to have your shifter placed in the lowest setting (shifter all the way down) to CORRECTLY reinstall, this guy is not giving you all the RIGHT advice
Wrong. WD-40 is 100% petroleum based. WD stands for WATER DISPLACEMENT. Meaning it actually REMOVES water. I have used it in a machine shop for decades. It not only provides lubrication for grinding, cutting, and drilling tools, but actually PREVENTS rust. The place I used to work at bought it in 5 gallon cans, now that I am retired I buy it by the gallon.
@@geraldscott4302 wrong again, it has a water base to it wd does not stand for water displacement, who ever told you that was testing your mental abilities, everyone knows there is a water base to wd40, starts corrosion before you know it, in the military you will never see that garbage anywhere, because it does not work. Enough said.
@@ronringwald5120 It was actually developed for the military, to protect rockets and missiles from rust and corrosion, and was also used to protect stored aircraft and other equipment. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WD-40
'i'm no handiman, so i would never attempt this...but i've been a professional video producer for near 30 years and have done many 'how-to' videos like this including a custom kit for CHASSIS ENGINEERING in west palm beach, and many others of this type. your presentation, production values, EVERYTHING was SPOT-ON EXCELLENT! even though i will not try anything like this (i can't screw in a light bulb), i watched the whole video...the voice-over did not drag at all, so it was a very comfortable watch-- WELL DONE, and thx for posting, i'm sure a lot of mod-ers will appreciate it-- :D
Wow! Thank you so very much for your input on our videos! Lance does put a lot of work into them and truly hopes they are helpful and informative to everyone. We get all kinds of feedback regarding these videos, some good, some bad. This absolutely made our day! Have a great one!!!
I like to give credit where credit's due.. keep up the good work dudes!
@@BlueCollarBobbers I am not a fan of bobbers, and a Rebel bobber would be way too small for me. I have mine set up with a backrest, luggage rack, and saddlebags. But this kit made it possible for someone my size to ride the little Rebel without the pain caused by being all scrunched up. Be aware that unless you have a drill press, drilling the holes straight will likely be the hardest part. It is very difficult to drill holes perfectly straight through something round unless it is held firmly in place. It would be nice if it came with the holes already drilled.
This is the best instructional video I have ever seen. On any topic, seriously. The attention to detail and background information was unequaled. I only wish my videos were this good. Thank you again. P.S. I don't drive a rebel, they are too small for me. I am 6'3". 215#. But, I did watch the whole video. Quite entertaining too. Made me laugh a couple of times. Thanks
Thank you very much for the great feedback! We really appreciate it!
I did another one of these a couple months ago. I DID NOT use the JB Weld. I installed the brake arm assembly in the jig, clamped the jig to a perfectly level platform on a drill press, and slowly drilled both holes, using a lot of WD-40 on the drill bit. I then used grade 8 screws and lock nuts. It's solid as a rock. The bolts are the strongest part. Not using the JB Weld made it a LOT easier, plus you can take it apart if for some reason you need or want to.
I absolutely love these forward controls!
My 2014, 250 Rebel shifts so much smoother now, and even easier shift into neutral(it was always a buggar before) I'm only 5'9", and my wife is 6'3"...we both love the feet more forward it's way more natural and comfortable feeling.
Plus with having a surfboard rack mounted to the right side of the bike it's a lot easier to place the right foot down (safely) to the ground at stop signs when heading to surf with board in the rack!
(Picture is a couple years before forward controls, and other mods)
Where did you buy this? Thank you!
The forward controls I bought online through Blue Collar Bobbers.
The surf rack from Miller Surf shop in Kailua Kona. It's made by Bike Works.
Ok, several comments here. First of all, my kit did not come with the little spring and the little concave plate that attach to the bottom of the brake arm using the front brake arm extension bolt. Instead I received a piece of paper that said that it was not necessary. I haven't had a problem, but in my opinion it would be nice to have that spring in the front. The Rebel 250 brake arm is already very long and heavy, and extending it and adding the extension pieces makes it even longer and heavier. I may fabricate a way to install a similar spring to put a little more upward pressure on the front of the brake arm. Also, this video, and the piece of paper show Nyloc nuts on the bolts that go through the brake arm. I did not receive any Nyloc nuts, just regular ones. You can get Nyloc nuts at any hardware store.
The most difficult part of this job is cutting and extending the brake arm. The concept is simple, but there are a couple of issues. The large bolt that goes through the rear of the brake arm and the stamped steel jig is not quite large enough in diameter, and allows up and down play in the rear of the brake arm. You could wrap some tape around the bolt once you put it through the hole in the jig, so it fits tightly in the brake arm, I chose to put wood shims between the bottom of the jig and the rear part of the brake arm to push it up as high as it will go and hold it there before snugging up the nut on the bolt. Leave the shim/spacer in place so the rear of the brake arm does not move downward while you are cutting it. I also found that the two screws that are used to hold the brake arm in place don't do a very good job, and allow some movement. First, put a nut on the center screw, run it all the way up to the head, then place the screw with the nut on it in the center hole of the jig, and put another nut on the back side of the jig and snug it up. That will hold the brake arm the correct distance from the back of the jig. I chose to make a small flat bracket out of a small angle bracket from a hardware store. I enlarged one existing hole in it, then drilled another. They are exactly the same distance apart and same diameter as the top and bottom holes near the center of the jig. I put it on the outside of the brake arm, with both the top and bottom screws going through it and then through the top and bottom holes in the jig. This holds the brake arm much more securely in place while cutting it. I did have to use slightly longer bolts than the ones that come in the kit.
The one place where it would be really easy to mess up is drilling the holes through the brake arm where the dimples are. For some reason that is not shown in the video. Remember, you are drilling through the black tube, the brake arm, and a SOLID piece of aluminum inside the black tube. I DO NOT recommend trying to do this with a hand held drill. It is almost impossible to get the holes straight up and down that way, and they are very likely to come out crooked. They may still work, but won't look very good. I used a drill press, and a very high quality drill bit. If you use a drill press, make sure the plate on the drill press is completely level. You don't want to drill the holes at an angle. Take your time and drill slowly, keeping the drill bit lubricated. WD-40 is fine for that.
The final part is the nuts that go on the very ends of the support rod, on the outside of the flat metal plates. I chose to use stainless steel acorn nuts instead of the open end nuts that came with the kit to make it look a bit better.
Also, as far as adjusting the rear brake, I put a piece of 2x4 under the sidestand, then use a small scissors jack that came with a car, place it under the right side of the swing arm, and raise it so the tire just clears the floor. You can place the front wheel against a wall, or put a clamp on the front brake lever to lock the front wheel if you are afraid the bike might roll off the jack. Now, with the brake a bit loose, spin the rear wheel by hand, tighten up the brake rod nut a little, and spin the wheel again. continue to do this until you feel some resistance in the rear wheel. At that point, the rear brake is slightly too tight. Back off the adjustment just to the point where the wheel spins freely. That is the correct adjustment. You should not have to press very far on the brake pedal to apply the rear brake. If the chain needs to be adjusted, do that first before adjusting the rear brake. If the chain was already adjusted properly, you won't need to loosen the rear axle to install this kit.
Overall I am satisfied with this kit. I'm 6' with a 32" inseam, and riding the Rebel any distance was quite painful. I'm an old guy, with bad knee and hip joints and arthritis. This kit put the pegs, brake, and shifter in just about the perfect place. I no longer need to sit between the front and back seats. To do it right does require the proper tools and some degree of mechanical inclination. I am a recently retired professional mechanic, hot rodder, and drag racer. I have built a lot of cars, so I am used to fabricating parts and have all the necessary tools. I thought about welding the brake arm parts together, but that would have required removing some of the paint from the black tube, and would have ruined some of the chrome on the brake arm. It would have needed to be completely dechromed and painted or powder coated, but would have made drilling holes and putting bolts through it unnecessary. It feels fairly solid, but it does have more flex in it than having the pegs in the stock location. Having slightly thicker plates and a larger diameter support rod that goes between the side plates would likely help with that.
Sorry for being late with this response. If you would like the spring, let us know. We found that the spring took
some of the "feel" from the brake lever.
@@cherylwise3764 No problem. I fabricated my own spring setup. The brake pedal felt sloppy and even rattled a bit without it. But thank you for your response.
I love all of the BCB mods and have started adding a few to my daughters 06 rebel but this one seems way pricey for what you are getting. I literally just finished this mod on my daughters bike and although I had some old linkage laying around that I was able to use, even if I had to buy that, the whole job would have cost under $40.00. As it is I was able to complete the whole conversion for a grand total of $5.15 for two pieces of 2x1/4 flat bar cut at 8 inches long and a 1 foot piece of 5/16 round stock to use as a slug for the brake pedal. The only thing I had to farm out was getting a buddy to weld the slug in place. As I said all of your stuff is awesome but I think you are pricing this conversion kit out of range of a lot of people. The jig for cutting and glueing the brake pedal is WAY overkill and I'm sure is what a lot of the cost is for a one time use piece.
i figured i could i do the same but i dont know anybody that will fabricate or make the the brackets i need.
I worked as a fleet services mechanic for 40 years (now retired) and back around 2008 I bought a 2004 Rebel 250. I'm 6' with a 34" inseam, and quickly noticed that it was way too cramped. I fabricated my own version of this kit, using nuts, bolts, and steel stock lying around the shop. Rather than lengthen the brake pedal, I used another shifter as a brake pedal that pivoted on the bracket I made, used a long rod that went from the shifter pedal to the shaft that the oem brake pedal attaches to, and fabricated a bracket to connect it to that shaft. It all turned out very well. BUT. At the time I had access to a machine shop and a welder. I'm sure I could cobble something together at home that would work, but it wouldn't be as nice as this kit, or what I fabricated before. So when I bought a brand new 2016 Rebel (last year for the real Rebel) I decided I wanted it nice, so I used this kit. I have been very happy with it. I wish it was available in chrome, but it still looks and works fine. I am fully aware that I am a bit too big for the Rebel, but I have bad knee and hip joints and severe arthritis, and the little Rebel is so easy to ride and get on and off of. I will likely keep it for the rest of my riding life. I got it new for several hundred $$$ under msrp OTD, so I don't mind spending a little money on it.
Love the bike for bombing around (and running to work), not the foot controls, looking forward to improving my riding comfort.
Can't wait to upgrade, will follow up after I receive/install them.
Awesome! We're excited to hear what you think!
Your clip are cool.Thank you so much I will replacement my Rebel 250 soon.
Thank you very much it a very best iDea.I searching to do that along time for my long legs trouble.I would like to shared this to my FC Rebel Thailand.
Just placed the order. I will document the process and put it up on my channel as a test.
Where did you order this from? Also do you know if they make a heel toe shifter anymore for the Rebel? Thanks.
@@judysmith6145 I got the kit from Blue Collaat Bobbers. Just search for them online. I forgot to video the steps, but their video covers everything.
I love the mov! so I learned . thank you!
Im chinese. I love it. I love your vidio.
would this work for a 1986 250 rebel? i want to upgrade to forward controls if possible.
Would this by chance fit an 86 model? It seems fro maybe Video it would but want to make sure!
I’ve been looking for a kit for my 86 too. Would be really nice if you guys had some lol
Do you have forward controls for the Royal Enfield 2021 Meteor 350? Thank you.😎
Hi BCB,
My 1998 Honda Rebel has rods instead of the tubing for the brake pedal. What should I do to extend the brake pedal?
Picture of the brake pedal and linkage is sent to gmail
Thanks
Hello I recently purchased this kit and I am having a lot of trouble with the shifter. It's installed correctly like shown on the video but it isn't shifting correctly. I've adjusted it many times, sometimes it's having trouble going into first gear, sometimes trouble going in to neutral and also having trouble shifting up to 2nd, 3rd, etc. Getting frustrated. Any help?
Hi, the troubles you are having may be because of the angle of the lever that is on the motor. If you refer to the video I show the angle on a drawing. The lever should be facing down or slightly to the left or right. Ours ended up facing a tad to the left or around 7:00 o'clock. The angle of the shifter should also be in about the same position.
You can send a picture of what you have also and we will get right back to you. Just email to bluecollarbobbers@gmail.com
Thanks so much, Lance at BCB
I've found the solution for the problem. Thanks for the response guys, you do good work.
Thank you, we appreciate that!
APosey22 1st problem, shifter not in the lowest setting BEFORE disassembly, then you have to scribe 2 points, 1 on the shifter 2 on the casing where shifter arm connects so both go back into same position, or you will always be in wrong gear, always.
@@BlueCollarBobbers Before removing the shift lever that goes on the shifter shaft coming out of the engine, I used an electric engraver to mark both the lever and the end of the shaft, so it will go back together EXACTLY the way it came apart. One spline off can cause problems. I don't advise using a felt pen to mark it with, it is likely that the ink will come off while you are working on it. An engraved mark is permanent, and can be used any time you need to remove the shifter lever from the shifter shaft. As was shown in the video, the angles of the lever attached to the shifter shaft and the lever attached to the shifter itself is critical. It must be almost exactly perfect. If it isn't, it will affect the shifter "throw". NEVER use the threaded rod to adjust shifter height. IF that needs to be adjusted, it must be adjusted by repositioning the shifter lever on the shifter shaft.
Any chance you still make kits to do this
around 8 minutes in, you talk about the aluminum rod having some kind of slot to keep it from pushing back out of the brake, but it doesn't seem to stay in even in your video. has there been any issues with people's brakes coming undone from doing this mod?
Hi Louie, the epoxy has a tendency to temporarily seal the tube diameters. Once you push on them a few times and finish the assembly there aren't any other issues. Once it's in the fixture, and the epoxy cures, it's there for good. Thanks so much, Lance @ BCB
ya I would like to know where and how much for that there kit will it fitbab206 250 rebel
Now, THAT was an excellent video! Quick question: is there some reason this wouldn't fit the pre-'89 models? Different bracketry on the frame or something???
Hi Seth. The older Rebels have totally different foot peg brackets. Sorry but out forward controls won't work on the older models.
@@BlueCollarBobbers I see, thank you! In that case, I'll just fabricate a set of pegs on a forward bar, so I can stretch out a little now and then.
how much for the kit cause I want to get one thanks Mr .winton
I have a 1986 Rebel 250. What modifications will need to be made to this kit to make it work for that model? Is there a kit in the works for the early Rebels?
Hi Ben, we have been looking for an older Rebel but haven't had much luck. As soon as we get one, we are going to design forward controls and side covers as well. Keep checking back with us and we'll be sure to post something!
Sorry Aaron, not yet.
Not yet. :(
Unfortunately not at this time.
I have a 1987 rebel cmx250....if you are interested in buying it plz lemme know...it's just sitting right now, which is a shame cuz it's fun to ride.... runs well just needs a front left foot peg bracket (casting broke), which you cannot find anymore... so a kit for forward controls would be awesome!!!
So these won’t work on my 1986 rebel 250 :(
How much cost this kit ? Still on sale
Do you guys still sell this kit ?
Hello hello hello. So I have been on the hunt for forward controls for my 2019 Rebel. Would this be compatible? And of so where can I purchase this?
There is no such thing as a 2019 Rebel. Production of the Rebel ended in 2016.
Wow! I got 22 minutes into the video before reading comments. I could have save 22 minutes if I had read them FIRST! Love the idea but is useless on my '87 Rebel. :-( Good video though.
Sorry about that Don. We will edit this title to include the years this will work on. Thanks for letting us know!
Honda changed a ton of things from the 1985-1987 Rebels when they came out with the 1996-2016 Rebel. Way more than most people probably realize. While they look very similar, they actually share very few parts. I prefer the looks of the original, especially the chrome side cover, battery box, and pullback handlebars. I wish they had carried those over to the newer model.
When will these forward controls be available again?
Yes, they are BACK IN STOCK!
My Rebel has a linkage type brake pedal, not a solid one like this.
Do you do another kit to suit this type also?
If you have the older model Rebel (1988 and older) our forward controls will not work.
BlueCollarBobbers Mine is a 2008 model.
But it has the linkage type setup.
Could you guys send us a picture of your linkage setup? Just email to bluecollarbobbers@gmail.com
Thanks so much!!!
where is the exhaust wraps from?
Hi, the green exhaust wrap is just our black that I painted. You can use any paint. I used engine enamel. It's fun to play with the wrap!!
Thanks so much, Lance at BCB
I have a '86 450 Rebel and want to extend the pegs just like this, do you have a kit that will work?
+Joel C. Hi Joel, we don't currently offer them for anything older than 1989. We have had a lot of interest so possibly one day we will be able to make them!
Aw man I hope so! I was able to fine me an '86 20,000 local miles for a killer price and even though its a nice ride i would love to stretch out my legs some... you sure yr '89 Rebel kit wouldn't fit? the really haven't changed throughout the years
Hi Joel, unfortunately the frame and mounting surfaces are completely different. Bummer!
Will this fit a 300 rebel ?
does kit fit a Rebel 500 on a 2021 plate
There is no such thing as a Rebel 500. There is a Rebel 250 that was sold in the U.S. through 2016, and Honda made a Rebel 450 during 1986-1987. A 125 Rebel was available in Europe.
I never seen a Rebel with green spokes!
Hey version en Español y donde lo puedo comprar $$$$$$ ????
donde los consigo para mi rebel 250 en monterrey nuebo leon gracias
Javier Reyes ¿Está usted preguntando dónde comprar nuestros kits ? Usted puede ordenar en nuestra página web bluecollarbobbers.com o puede llamarnos al 801-676-7889 o envíenos un email a bluecollarbobbers@gmail.com
Gracias!
+Javier Reyes los conseguiste ?
Will this fit a yamaha Virago 03 250
Hi Michelle, sorry this will not fit the Virago. We get so many people asking that same question...maybe some day...
OK thanks I hope soon lol😀
NO.
Does this exist for honda shadow?
No we don't make the forward controls for the Honda shadow. Sorry about that!
BAWLS2894 There's billet kits on Ebay for the Shadow that are straight bolt on kits, no modifications needed like this kit and they are solid.
Why won't it fit an 86?
The 1986 frame is COMPLETELY different from the 1996-2016 frame. Look at a 1985 frame and it should be obvious why it won't fit. It would be difficult to make something like this for the 1985-1987 Rebel 250 because of the differences in the frame and the way the kickstand mounts.
the word bobber is over used
Thank you for your comment, Blue Collar Bobbers appreciates it. Have a great day!
blah blah blah blah
This guy is a rookie, you never use wd40 on anything because it has a water base to it, so now you are introducing rust to begin it's job, REALLY, also he doesn't tell you to have your shifter placed in the lowest setting (shifter all the way down) to CORRECTLY reinstall, this guy is not giving you all the RIGHT advice
Wrong. WD-40 is 100% petroleum based. WD stands for WATER DISPLACEMENT. Meaning it actually REMOVES water. I have used it in a machine shop for decades. It not only provides lubrication for grinding, cutting, and drilling tools, but actually PREVENTS rust. The place I used to work at bought it in 5 gallon cans, now that I am retired I buy it by the gallon.
@@geraldscott4302 wrong again, it has a water base to it wd does not stand for water displacement, who ever told you that was testing your mental abilities, everyone knows there is a water base to wd40, starts corrosion before you know it, in the military you will never see that garbage anywhere, because it does not work. Enough said.
@@ronringwald5120 It was actually developed for the military, to protect rockets and missiles from rust and corrosion, and was also used to protect stored aircraft and other equipment. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WD-40