Love these videos man! I am currently trying to work on mine since I let it set and now it won’t run. These videos are so useful thank you so much my friend!
Great Video have a question, is there a rubber washer on the drain plug, and I also had a left over washer I could not figure out where it went. It's the one at the top of the shop rag in the video as you get ready to reinstall. I re watched the video a few times and figured out there are two washers on the accelerator rod.
Yes, there is an o-ring on the drain screw. And yes, this bike had a second washer on the accelerator linkage. Sounds like yours may have as well. My 02 Rebel only had one and the Parts diagrams I checked only had one, so I did not reinstall it. I figured it was a mistake.
The Fixit Shed. AT the timestamp 30:39 there is an extra washer. I had a washer fall out when I was taking mine apart. Everything looks ok, BUT I have an extra washer. It looks like at 30:39 you also have an extra washer. Where did that go?
Trying to get the bracket off just before carb removal step. Both bolts are blocked by blob of wires and a fuse box. Mine is newer, 2012, so am I looking at taking out the battery and removing the box that holds it? Thats the only way I see around this roadblock. I can't get anything onto the bolts or any leverage...
For thebwires that are blocking the bolts, if you follow them down, just below the bottom of the battery, there is a metal tab holding them in place. You can bend the tab out a little to release the wires. That will give you enough play to get to the bottom bolt. If the wires are blocking the top bolt, you can unbolt the positive battery cable and the whole block on the side of the battery box will slide to the right and move out of the way.
El fin de semana quiero desarmar el carburador pero no sé cuál será el chiclet de fábrica, tal vez por eso me consume combustible y no pasa de los 60 km
Hola saludos desde España me gusta sus contenidos sonbre la Honda Rebel, yo tengo una que la compré hage un mes y le estoy haciendo unos ajustes, solo quiero saber cómo es la regulación del combustible en el carburador, porque veo mucho humo por el escape, ya le calibre las válvulas y le puse la posición de la llave de aire de carburador a dos vueltas, y sigue igual con humo negro un poco por el escape, me podrías desir que seria un saludo
Hola y gracias por comentar. Black smoke may indicate incomplete combustion. This can be caused by a dirty carburetor, or clogged air filter. I would probably start with a new filter and clean the carburetor. El humo negro puede indicar una combustión incompleta. Esto puede deberse a un carburador sucio o a un filtro de aire obstruido. Probablemente comenzaría con un filtro nuevo y limpiaría el carburador.
@@TheFixitShed muchas gracias por su recomendación, le cambié el filtro por uno nuevo original y también la moto no pasa de 60 km en velocidad, le puse un CDI que lo veo muy pequeño talvez por la poca chispa no hace una buena combustión, solo me queda limpiar el carburador y otra pregunta, al no sobrepasar la velocidad de los y solo estar en 60 millas que problemas tendría la moto
If it hasn't been run in a while, Driving it might do it some good. The gas might be old. Fresh gas and mybe some fuel additive to clean the carb might help. Not sure about the CDI if you didn't get Honda OEM. Si no se ha utilizado durante un tiempo, conducirlo podría servirle de algo. Puede que el gas esté viejo. La gasolina nueva y tal vez algún aditivo de combustible para limpiar el carburador podrían ayudar. No estoy seguro acerca del CDI si no adquirió Honda OEM.
@TheFixitShed muchas gracias mi honda Rebel es como su modelo del 1998 la estoy probando para hacer unas mejoras y se que va a recuperar su velocidad crucero, es una moto muy buena para su tiempo como los encontré a hoy la reviví porque estaba parada, un saludo grande y gracias por sus buenos consejos
Hey how are you? I have the same year and specs rebel. Mine also has the same symptoms of not starting. I recently rebuilt the carb and let it sit in berrymans chem dip for about two days. Blew out all the holes and put the Jets back on perfect. I had to buy a new vacuum piston of eBay which is not the same as the one it came with. My bike was running for about 30 mins then shut off on me whilst I was riding. I know you said that it could have been just been bad gas. Would that show the same symptoms?
Probably not. If the gas was bad, It wouldn't have run for 30 minutes. If the gas was dirty (rust in gas tank) that could run fine for a bit and then shut off once jets get clogged again. Check to see if gas in float bowl is dirty or has water in it. Pull spark plugs to make sure you are getting spark. Check the jets to see if they are clogged. The gen 1 Rebels had a different carb and the pistons were a different size. Your bike is a gen 2 and you may have bought one from the earlier years. I would try to get a correct one.
Hey I was having problems with my motorcycle from 1st to 2nd gear when I gas it my motorcycle has a slight stall in gas then feels like it burps 3 little jolts and then when it hits 2nd gear it’s fine. Any idea if I should clean out my carburetor?
Definately a good place to start. If you can take it apart and soak it yourself, It is an inexpensive (although a little time consuming) thing to try. It kind of sounds like a fuel delivery problem, but not sure why it would only be occurring when shifting from 1st to 2nd gear.
I tend to agree with you. I have disassembled and reassembled the carb several times since then and usually install it the other way. It doesn't affect function. The spring has the same resistance either way.
@@TheFixitShed it started working its way through the plastic cap for me when installed it upside down. Also, I noticed if you drop the throttle from wide open to zero, sometimes the plastic cap will pop loose from the metal retainer and throw off your idle. Doesn't seem to do it with the spring oriented correctly, but it likely wouldn't do it at all even upside down as long as the wire from the spring isn't working its way through the cap. Regardless, your videos proved very helpful for the rebuild of my bike and I thank you for them.
That bloody accelerator pump cover gets clogged up and the accelerator pump jet that goes into the carb, then your engine bogs down when you twist the throttle. There's no bloody replacement I can find for that cover and the parts are press fit in so I'm trying everything known to man to clean it out. I h8t3 this mikuni carb more than life itself. I've been in and out of it a million times already.
You can clean out all the jets inside the fuel bowl area you want and it don't matter... if your accelerator pump holes are clogged the bike will only run on choke and then bog out on accelerate.
Not sure what year your bike is, but but for my 2001 Rebel, the part number for the accelerator cap (and internal parts) is 16021-KEN-620. You can get it from Honda, Partzilla, or ebay. Price ranges from $90 to $125.
@@TheFixitShed I ended up using the smallest drill bit this afternoon to drill past the jet and make my own jet below the rubber accelerator pump diaphram. Make sure you clean out all 4 holes on the side and the 4 (or 1) in the center bottom in that blasted accelerator pump cap. My bottom 4 (the older version, they push a square brass piece into a round hole to make 4 orifices) were clogged even with wires and air and B12 solvent and phosphoric acid attacking from both entrances. Make sure you clean the accelerator jet that comes out inside the carb barrel. Mine was also clogged up. A wire won't go all the way through it, it does a 90 exit as the hole is on the back side of the brass jet, not end of it. If you just clean the main 3 jets and the float bowl filler hole (by watching generic carb videos), you miss a lot of other holes and passage ways everywhere you may not even know are there. My bike is still lean bogging and my idle jet is still clogged somewhere because it's only running on choke, even though I've blasted air through the jet. Rubber boots look good. I don't know what to do any more, I'm about to push it off a cliff. I've taken this carb on and off at least 50 times now. If you could get the older 85 carb, I'd buy one new and be done with it, but they are unobtanium (like a Honda 450 carb probably). The mounting to the engine is different... instead of two bolts, it slips into a rubber tube. A lot harder to get on and off than your newer version. The Honda Rebel is a great bike... until it's not. ~ You can take off your sissy bar back rest, but leave on the rack, and mount a refrigerator rack over it from an old refrigerator... extend the bolts on the left and right side holding the sissy bar on, then run bungee cords to mount it... and you then have a pickup truck bed on the back of your bike over the hard back seat and rack to carry a duffle bag or longer cooler or plastic crate or whatever floats your boat... more cargo space. That's what I did on my CM450 and Honda Shadow. MPG on the bike will vary depending on the speed you drive it. I get 50-60mpg, but you can get it up to 70 by being in top gear and keeping it at 35. :-) ~ Also, if you replace the front sprocket with one with 1 more tooth than the stock (findable on ebay), the bike will sound a lot less like a bunch of angry bees. I've also replaced the front headlamp housing with a larger fog lamp housing (like that would go on a jeep), which looks bigger and beefier with a bigger light in it and that solved the underpowered headlight problem. Makes it look better too. ~ Don't forget to change your fork oil and clutch oil... both get water in them and rust and stick inside. If your brake lever stops pumping after you change the brake fluid, and you can't bleed the brakes any more, don't bother with a rebuild kit, just buy a whole new lever for $15. (done both, learned which is the way to go). Be careful to buy the one that has the screw hole in it for the mirror, as there are two varieties for the rebel one with and one without. (done both, had to return one).
Wow! Lots of good stuff here! I also used a milk crate on the back of my 86 Rebel 450 when I was going to school and using it for a 100 mile round trip daily.
I have a 4 part series on a 2002 Rebel carb rebuild. There may be better coverage of what you need to know in there. ruclips.net/video/nydNr93GQQU/видео.html
Thanks so much for this video! I’m working on a Rebel that hasn’t run in four years and I followed your instructions and it fired right up. Thank you!
That's AWESOME!!! Glad it helped!
This is an amazing video and exactly what I needed, great how to’s for all types of rebel projects, dont stop making these!!!
Thank you! Definitely more to come.
Love these videos man! I am currently trying to work on mine since I let it set and now it won’t run. These videos are so useful thank you so much my friend!
Glad you like them!
Just bought a rebel today and I’m hoping this will get it started. It’s been sitting for a few weeks but it ran perfectly just before that
I hope it works for you, but if it was running perfectly, sitting for a few weeks shouldn't require a carb clean to get it running again.
Great Video have a question, is there a rubber washer on the drain plug, and I also had a left over washer I could not figure out where it went. It's the one at the top of the shop rag in the video as you get ready to reinstall. I re watched the video a few times and figured out there are two washers on the accelerator rod.
Yes, there is an o-ring on the drain screw. And yes, this bike had a second washer on the accelerator linkage. Sounds like yours may have as well. My 02 Rebel only had one and the Parts diagrams I checked only had one, so I did not reinstall it. I figured it was a mistake.
@@TheFixitShed Thank you for the help
The Fixit Shed. AT the timestamp 30:39 there is an extra washer. I had a washer fall out when I was taking mine apart. Everything looks ok, BUT I have an extra washer. It looks like at 30:39 you also have an extra washer. Where did that go?
It came off of the idle adjuster. There were 2 washers for some reason. It is only supposed to have one. So I left it off.
Thanks for the video!!
You are welcome. Glad you like it!
Trying to get the bracket off just before carb removal step. Both bolts are blocked by blob of wires and a fuse box. Mine is newer, 2012, so am I looking at taking out the battery and removing the box that holds it? Thats the only way I see around this roadblock. I can't get anything onto the bolts or any leverage...
For thebwires that are blocking the bolts, if you follow them down, just below the bottom of the battery, there is a metal tab holding them in place. You can bend the tab out a little to release the wires. That will give you enough play to get to the bottom bolt. If the wires are blocking the top bolt, you can unbolt the positive battery cable and the whole block on the side of the battery box will slide to the right and move out of the way.
@@TheFixitShedyou are a life saver! Thanks so much for the insight! I will dive back into it tomorrow.
Great instructional vids
I am glad you are enjoying them.
Hola un saludo desde España, quería hacerle una pregunta que se me olvidó comentarte, el chiclet del carburador de alta y de baja que numeración es
1985: Main #135, Idle #35
86-87: Main #128, Idle #35
1996-2016: Main #108, Idle #38
@@TheFixitShed Muchas gracias por la información un saludo desde España, cuando esté la moto carburada te comento los resultados gracias
El fin de semana quiero desarmar el carburador pero no sé cuál será el chiclet de fábrica, tal vez por eso me consume combustible y no pasa de los 60 km
Hola saludos desde España me gusta sus contenidos sonbre la Honda Rebel, yo tengo una que la compré hage un mes y le estoy haciendo unos ajustes, solo quiero saber cómo es la regulación del combustible en el carburador, porque veo mucho humo por el escape, ya le calibre las válvulas y le puse la posición de la llave de aire de carburador a dos vueltas, y sigue igual con humo negro un poco por el escape, me podrías desir que seria un saludo
Hola y gracias por comentar.
Black smoke may indicate incomplete combustion. This can be caused by a dirty carburetor, or clogged air filter. I would probably start with a new filter and clean the carburetor.
El humo negro puede indicar una combustión incompleta. Esto puede deberse a un carburador sucio o a un filtro de aire obstruido. Probablemente comenzaría con un filtro nuevo y limpiaría el carburador.
@@TheFixitShed muchas gracias por su recomendación, le cambié el filtro por uno nuevo original y también la moto no pasa de 60 km en velocidad, le puse un CDI que lo veo muy pequeño talvez por la poca chispa no hace una buena combustión, solo me queda limpiar el carburador y otra pregunta, al no sobrepasar la velocidad de los y solo estar en 60 millas que problemas tendría la moto
@@TheFixitShed El kid de reparación me sería útil para el carburador
If it hasn't been run in a while, Driving it might do it some good. The gas might be old. Fresh gas and mybe some fuel additive to clean the carb might help. Not sure about the CDI if you didn't get Honda OEM.
Si no se ha utilizado durante un tiempo, conducirlo podría servirle de algo. Puede que el gas esté viejo. La gasolina nueva y tal vez algún aditivo de combustible para limpiar el carburador podrían ayudar. No estoy seguro acerca del CDI si no adquirió Honda OEM.
@TheFixitShed muchas gracias mi honda Rebel es como su modelo del 1998 la estoy probando para hacer unas mejoras y se que va a recuperar su velocidad crucero, es una moto muy buena para su tiempo como los encontré a hoy la reviví porque estaba parada, un saludo grande y gracias por sus buenos consejos
Omg ,I like the shift level like that ,because in Asian countries we used that much,how could you have that sir ?
It looks like it was homemade, but well done. Here is a short video I made about it. ruclips.net/user/shortsahchP9_ZSqc?si=olCcQ78GyPlKucVR
Hey how are you? I have the same year and specs rebel. Mine also has the same symptoms of not starting. I recently rebuilt the carb and let it sit in berrymans chem dip for about two days. Blew out all the holes and put the Jets back on perfect. I had to buy a new vacuum piston of eBay which is not the same as the one it came with. My bike was running for about 30 mins then shut off on me whilst I was riding. I know you said that it could have been just been bad gas. Would that show the same symptoms?
Probably not. If the gas was bad, It wouldn't have run for 30 minutes. If the gas was dirty (rust in gas tank) that could run fine for a bit and then shut off once jets get clogged again. Check to see if gas in float bowl is dirty or has water in it. Pull spark plugs to make sure you are getting spark. Check the jets to see if they are clogged. The gen 1 Rebels had a different carb and the pistons were a different size. Your bike is a gen 2 and you may have bought one from the earlier years. I would try to get a correct one.
Thank you for the response I really appreciate it and will take a look at it asap !
Hey I was having problems with my motorcycle from 1st to 2nd gear when I gas it my motorcycle has a slight stall in gas then feels like it burps 3 little jolts and then when it hits 2nd gear it’s fine. Any idea if I should clean out my carburetor?
Definately a good place to start. If you can take it apart and soak it yourself, It is an inexpensive (although a little time consuming) thing to try. It kind of sounds like a fuel delivery problem, but not sure why it would only be occurring when shifting from 1st to 2nd gear.
I have this same problem not sure gonna try cleaning my carb and maybe getting a dual? If you fixed it PLEASE let me know 😁💜
Love the flames! 🔥Is that paint or a decal?
Paint, but the outline of the flames might be pinstriping tape.
Pretty sure your throttle spring at 29:42 is on upside down.
I tend to agree with you. I have disassembled and reassembled the carb several times since then and usually install it the other way. It doesn't affect function. The spring has the same resistance either way.
@@TheFixitShed it started working its way through the plastic cap for me when installed it upside down. Also, I noticed if you drop the throttle from wide open to zero, sometimes the plastic cap will pop loose from the metal retainer and throw off your idle. Doesn't seem to do it with the spring oriented correctly, but it likely wouldn't do it at all even upside down as long as the wire from the spring isn't working its way through the cap.
Regardless, your videos proved very helpful for the rebuild of my bike and I thank you for them.
That bloody accelerator pump cover gets clogged up and the accelerator pump jet that goes into the carb, then your engine bogs down when you twist the throttle. There's no bloody replacement I can find for that cover and the parts are press fit in so I'm trying everything known to man to clean it out. I h8t3 this mikuni carb more than life itself. I've been in and out of it a million times already.
You can clean out all the jets inside the fuel bowl area you want and it don't matter... if your accelerator pump holes are clogged the bike will only run on choke and then bog out on accelerate.
Not sure what year your bike is, but but for my 2001 Rebel, the part number for the accelerator cap (and internal parts) is 16021-KEN-620. You can get it from Honda, Partzilla, or ebay. Price ranges from $90 to $125.
If you have an early model (85, 86, 87 part number 16021-KR3-671), yeah, that looks hard to find.
@@TheFixitShed I ended up using the smallest drill bit this afternoon to drill past the jet and make my own jet below the rubber accelerator pump diaphram. Make sure you clean out all 4 holes on the side and the 4 (or 1) in the center bottom in that blasted accelerator pump cap.
My bottom 4 (the older version, they push a square brass piece into a round hole to make 4 orifices) were clogged even with wires and air and B12 solvent and phosphoric acid attacking from both entrances.
Make sure you clean the accelerator jet that comes out inside the carb barrel. Mine was also clogged up. A wire won't go all the way through it, it does a 90 exit as the hole is on the back side of the brass jet, not end of it.
If you just clean the main 3 jets and the float bowl filler hole (by watching generic carb videos), you miss a lot of other holes and passage ways everywhere you may not even know are there.
My bike is still lean bogging and my idle jet is still clogged somewhere because it's only running on choke, even though I've blasted air through the jet. Rubber boots look good. I don't know what to do any more, I'm about to push it off a cliff. I've taken this carb on and off at least 50 times now.
If you could get the older 85 carb, I'd buy one new and be done with it, but they are unobtanium (like a Honda 450 carb probably). The mounting to the engine is different... instead of two bolts, it slips into a rubber tube. A lot harder to get on and off than your newer version.
The Honda Rebel is a great bike... until it's not.
~
You can take off your sissy bar back rest, but leave on the rack, and mount a refrigerator rack over it from an old refrigerator... extend the bolts on the left and right side holding the sissy bar on, then run bungee cords to mount it... and you then have a pickup truck bed on the back of your bike over the hard back seat and rack to carry a duffle bag or longer cooler or plastic crate or whatever floats your boat... more cargo space. That's what I did on my CM450 and Honda Shadow.
MPG on the bike will vary depending on the speed you drive it. I get 50-60mpg, but you can get it up to 70 by being in top gear and keeping it at 35. :-)
~
Also, if you replace the front sprocket with one with 1 more tooth than the stock (findable on ebay), the bike will sound a lot less like a bunch of angry bees.
I've also replaced the front headlamp housing with a larger fog lamp housing (like that would go on a jeep), which looks bigger and beefier with a bigger light in it and that solved the underpowered headlight problem. Makes it look better too.
~
Don't forget to change your fork oil and clutch oil... both get water in them and rust and stick inside. If your brake lever stops pumping after you change the brake fluid, and you can't bleed the brakes any more, don't bother with a rebuild kit, just buy a whole new lever for $15. (done both, learned which is the way to go). Be careful to buy the one that has the screw hole in it for the mirror, as there are two varieties for the rebel one with and one without. (done both, had to return one).
Wow! Lots of good stuff here! I also used a milk crate on the back of my 86 Rebel 450 when I was going to school and using it for a 100 mile round trip daily.
pretty sure it was the gas lol that carb looked really good ( from what we could see)
Agreed. LOL
are you tryna impress us or teach us cause slow tf down and show how your putting it together instead of just saying 'done'
I have a 4 part series on a 2002 Rebel carb rebuild. There may be better coverage of what you need to know in there. ruclips.net/video/nydNr93GQQU/видео.html