Glad I could help! I hope you enjoy your new machine. If you don’t mind me asking, what state are you writing from? (I like to put a pin on my map for each reply I get.)
I recently purchased an 8in jointer and I’m getting snipe ate the end of my cuts. I put a level and the blade moves the level forward a bit but I don’t see it lifting it . Any recommendations.
I am sorry. As I mentioned in my video, I am new to the jointer and not the right person to help you. I did find that Wahuda has a very good support person that could probably take care of your issue. Have a safe and happy 2021. If you don’t mind me asking, what state are you writing from? (I like to put a pin on my map for each reply I get.)
I don't know if you solved your snipe problem. I recently saw a video where the woodworking said to have a sacrificial piece of wood pushing your good wood through the cutters to prevent snipe. I hope this helps you.
George Fotinakes as a general practice I choke up on the tool holding it closer to the driver: bit, socket, blade, etc. in lieu of holding the handle to gain added leverage when I’m doing less than 10-12 for pounds. If I’m trying to get around 8-10 fp then I’ll swing my hand down onto the lever arm (rachet) for the last nudge, final tightening. To your viewers; once you learn what snug is then adding a little less gets you finger tight, a little more gets snug and a tad more should get you 4-5 foot pounds, it’s not an exact science. If you overtorque you can always back off the bolt, till it’s loose, then a smidge more than snugged. A torque wrench in inch pounds solves the mystery!
Mitchell Kasdin Thank you for the very excellent instructions.When I loosened the screws they were so tight I heard a snap before they broke loose and came out so I try to put them in with that same amount of force. It may have been excessive but I’m planning to never take them out again.
George Fotinakes use a blue locker like locktite on the threads. That will hold the bolts in place so they don’t back out from vibration. Use the manufacturers recommended torque setting assuming it’s correct? If you’ve ever used a helicoil to remove a snapped bolt you’ll understand... it’s work and could mean retapping the hole or an insert? If you never want to loosen the bolt again, use red lock threader, more important! The blue does the job. From the factory they always overtighten to the point you need a cheater pipe. Haha
@@gfotinakes316 cool. I'm working with it right now and I am finding the same. I never had a jointer before so I am still getting my technique down. Mainly to apply uniform pressure throughout the entire jointing process. I've been getting slightly thicker result at the end of the board. I think it's because I'm not pressing down enough when the end of the board goes over the roller.
@@MixingGBP I too am new with the jointer. Most instructions show a hand over hand technique to avoid hands over the blade area. I almost feel safer keeping my hands on the plastic handles with a uniform pressure over the entire cut including the blade area. I feel like I have a greater chance for injury by moving around with my hand placement all the time. I just don't know.??
I am still happy with the jointer. My garage space would not allow for a floor standing one. I keep mine on a mobile bench with my lathe. It is well made, but I must be honest with you, I have only used it about 10 times. I just only need it once in awhile in the work I do. Have you looked at the Cutech jointers. They seem to be the same machine without an iron table and standard carbide. Their price are very competitive. Happy New year. If you don’t mind me asking, what state are you writing from? (I like to put a pin on my map for each reply I get.)
You are probably right. I am a novice and it just stopped rubbing the level so I went with it. I am getting beautiful results on my wood so I am happy with my purchase. Thanks for the comment. If you don’t mind me asking, what state are you writing from? (I like to put a pin on my map for each reply I get.)
Im sending my 6 inch back. The table adjust ment if for a rediculously large flathead screwdriver... they send three tools... none of which will adjust the planing taples. serious waste of time and energy.
Thank you! Very well done. Now I'm headed out to shop to put mine together.
Glad I could help! I hope you enjoy your new machine. If you don’t mind me asking, what state are you writing from? (I like to put a pin on my map for each reply I get.)
I recently purchased an 8in jointer and I’m getting snipe ate the end of my cuts. I put a level and the blade moves the level forward a bit but I don’t see it lifting it . Any recommendations.
I am sorry. As I mentioned in my video, I am new to the jointer and not the right person to help you. I did find that Wahuda has a very good support person that could probably take care of your issue. Have a safe and happy 2021.
If you don’t mind me asking, what state are you writing from? (I like to put a pin on my map for each reply I get.)
I don't know if you solved your snipe problem. I recently saw a video where the woodworking said to have a sacrificial piece of wood pushing your good wood through the cutters to prevent snipe. I hope this helps you.
50 inch lb equals 4 foot pound. So a little over finger tight. Snug then a 1/8 to 1/4 turn. If it feels like it will strip it’s too tight?
Thank you
George Fotinakes as a general practice I choke up on the tool holding it closer to the driver: bit, socket, blade, etc. in lieu of holding the handle to gain added leverage when I’m doing less than 10-12 for pounds. If I’m trying to get around 8-10 fp then I’ll swing my hand down onto the lever arm (rachet) for the last nudge, final tightening. To your viewers; once you learn what snug is then adding a little less gets you finger tight, a little more gets snug and a tad more should get you 4-5 foot pounds, it’s not an exact science. If you overtorque you can always back off the bolt, till it’s loose, then a smidge more than snugged. A torque wrench in inch pounds solves the mystery!
Mitchell Kasdin Thank you for the very excellent instructions.When I loosened the screws they were so tight I heard a snap before they broke loose and came out so I try to put them in with that same amount of force. It may have been excessive but I’m planning to never take them out again.
George Fotinakes use a blue locker like locktite on the threads. That will hold the bolts in place so they don’t back out from vibration. Use the manufacturers recommended torque setting assuming it’s correct? If you’ve ever used a helicoil to remove a snapped bolt you’ll understand... it’s work and could mean retapping the hole or an insert? If you never want to loosen the bolt again, use red lock threader, more important! The blue does the job. From the factory they always overtighten to the point you need a cheater pipe. Haha
just placed my order for a 8"
thanks for sharing
good luck Anthony!
By the way, what state are you in? I like to put a pin in a map for all of my replies. Take care!
How many passes are you roughly needing to get the result you like?
It depends on how rough and uneven the surface is. I rarely use the 1/8" setting, I would rather take 2-3 passes with a finer cut. It does a nice job.
@@gfotinakes316 cool. I'm working with it right now and I am finding the same. I never had a jointer before so I am still getting my technique down. Mainly to apply uniform pressure throughout the entire jointing process. I've been getting slightly thicker result at the end of the board. I think it's because I'm not pressing down enough when the end of the board goes over the roller.
@@MixingGBP I too am new with the jointer. Most instructions show a hand over hand technique to avoid hands over the blade area. I almost feel safer keeping my hands on the plastic handles with a uniform pressure over the entire cut including the blade area. I feel like I have a greater chance for injury by moving around with my hand placement all the time. I just don't know.??
Are you still happy with your Wahuda jointer as you were 6 months ago?.....or do you wish you had a floor standing one? Sill deciding which way to go.
I am still happy with the jointer. My garage space would not allow for a floor standing one. I keep mine on a mobile bench with my lathe. It is well made, but I must be honest with you, I have only used it about 10 times. I just only need it once in awhile in the work I do. Have you looked at the Cutech jointers. They seem to be the same machine without an iron table and standard carbide. Their price are very competitive. Happy New year. If you don’t mind me asking, what state are you writing from? (I like to put a pin on my map for each reply I get.)
@@gfotinakes316 Grand Rapids MI...thanks for your honest reply....!
Thank you
You're welcome, stay safe and take care.
So the infeed table turned to its highest spot will be a little higher than the outfeed table? Meaning there’s no positive stop?
I can't answer that, call up Wahuda's service department, they have excellent folks there.
Your blade was hitting the level and then all of a sudden it was fixed. Magic? That square is not as accurate as those blocks you are using.
You are probably right. I am a novice and it just stopped rubbing the level so I went with it. I am getting beautiful results on my wood so I am happy with my purchase. Thanks for the comment. If you don’t mind me asking, what state are you writing from? (I like to put a pin on my map for each reply I get.)
no variable speed control........................deal breaker for me
Thanks for watching anyway! Have a great holiday season.
Im sending my 6 inch back. The table adjust ment if for a rediculously large flathead screwdriver... they send three tools... none of which will adjust the planing taples. serious waste of time and energy.
Sorry that happened.