😆Table of contents👀: 0:00 - Teaser 1:40 - Intro 3:38 - Tools & Consumables 7:45 - Disassemble UV-K5 8:41 - How to flick and cut 10:04 - Remove components & clean 18:34 - Install HF FULL BAND mod. w/ preamp version 2.1 32:10 - Decide 1 antenna or 2 antenna 32:55 - TEST where to connect 2nd antenna 37:00 - 1 antenna setup 39:56 - TEST choke for 1 antenna or no choke 42:31 - Recap work done so far 1 antenna 43:17 - 1 antenna install choke, YES you need it 45:37 - 1 antenna DONE!! 47:33 - 2 antenna, remove capacitor 49:31 - IPEX or direct solder 50:35 - Isolate with UV solder mask 54:36 - Install IPEX connector 1:02:06 - Flashlight LED 1:12:38 - If you cut your board, you will short it! 1:14:44 - Relocate flashlight LED 1:17:30 - UV is cheap and EZ 1:18:30 - TEST relocated LED 1:18:40 - Optional LED relocation job done 1:20:31 - Isolate contacts around IPEX connector 1:22:18 - 1 antenna hi-freq low ESR choke 1:23:18 - How long to relocate flashlight LED? 1:23:48 - Cut antenna hole for SMA 1:35:39 - Make SMA flush with body 1:48:43 - Break SMA legs off 1:49:01 - Cut SMA center pin 1:53:06 - Si4732 + Spectrum Band + Spectrum Analyzer? 1:54:40 - Cut pigtail to proper length 1:55:56 - Clean isolation off pigtail 2:01:27 - Solder pigtail to SMA 2:08:40 - Isolate ISA w/ UV mask 2:12:58 - Install SMA 2:14:06 - Reassemble the radio, DONE!! 2:22:01 - Disassemble 2 antenna with IPEX (show off) 2:23:10 - Final SMA possitioning & notes 2:26:05 - Stock antenna & capped SMA 2:26:36 - Stock antenna & BNC on 2nd antenna 2:26:44 - Radio with two BNCs 2:26:51 - Radio with antenna and BNC 2:27:00 - Two antennas at the same time 2:27:19 - Si4732 + Supectrum Analyzer? 2:29:46 - Relocated LED show off 2:30:23 - Two IPEX connectors & BFU550AR low noise 2:31:44 - DONE!! See you in the next one guys!
Choke for single antenna dudes: Use hi-freq low ESR choke NLV32T-471J-EF, 470 мкГн, 1210, 5%, available on eBay, ali, Farnel, DigiKey, Mouser, ChipDip: www.chipdip.ru/product/nlv32t-471j-ef-470 Parts used: (if links are broken, let me know) HF FULL BAND Mod. ver. 2.1 - aliexpress.com/item/1005006856416248.html Pigtails, 20cm w/ IPEX - aliexpress.com/item/32909354468.html IPEX connectors - aliexpress.com/item/1005004590059018.html SMA-F, 18.5mm, get two - aliexpress.com/item/1005002371533134.html Y BNC-K to SMA-J & Y BNC-K to SMA-K, gold - aliexpress.com/item/1005005558908508.html SMA dust cap - aliexpress.com/item/1005004722805731.html 50 ohm BNC load - aliexpress.com/item/1005005558967410.html 27 MHz antenna - aliexpress.com/item/1005006651159908.html RH770 antenna - aliexpress.com/item/1005006101561640.html RH771S antenna - aliexpress.com/item/1005006909734550.html FM band stop - aliexpress.com/item/1005005202844390.html box for FM band stop - aliexpress.com/item/1005002117385683.html Baofeng volume knob - aliexpress.com/item/1005006445672504.html UV: (search ali for better deals if prices change) (if links are broken let me know) Cheap UV light, $1 - aliexpress.com/item/1005006079241384.html Solder mask, $2 - aliexpress.com/item/32963345470.html Solder mask alternatives, if you don't have $3 - forum.arduino.cc/t/solder-mask-paste-alternatives-solved/626071
Awesome as always. Thank you! I recently got 2 of these boards. One of them was missing the component you see at the very beginning middle top! The YG404Q! Just unbelievable! Got it on eBay.
Thanks Alex l love your videos, you go into every detail, Ive done the eeprom chip now ill have a go at this, very enjoyably, I subscribed this time 😊👍
Hi Alex, we are both legends! You because you made such a good and comprehensive video and me because I watched it all in one go!! 😅 I have had this board for weeks but wanted to wait for you to make a video before I tried doing it myself and I am so glad I waited for your video. Thank-you!
Sorry to drop in after the party has mainly broken up but I'm eager to know: When the "all-band" modification is installed, what new frequencies become available? You'd think this an obvious question but I've spent over one hour Googling and no one has commented on this! Thanks,
Hi, thank you for this video, just wandering about the new choke you have in listing, how is this type fitted ? In the video you show a diffrent choke? Do we just set it where the old choke you removed is ? Also what 100nf capacitor did you use ? Was it the 0603 the 0805 or 1206?
If this is version 2.1 then what version is the one that has the antenna MHF IPX connector already on it? Unfortunately it doesn’t have a version printed on the board like yours. But that’s the one I ordered yesterday for dual antenna so I guess I’ll find out soon how it works.
To be honest man, I still like version 2.1, so long as it has improved high quality coils, because I've seen same version with cheap coils. Then you just install BFU550AR LNA and your radio is just as sensitive.
HI, I followed your video and did the modification on a Quansheng UV-K5 (8). I had problems connecting the pad of the SI4732 V.2 board with resistor (the bridge with the shortest wire). I destroyed the board pad and I attached the wire with some solder to the board without the pad. The radio seems to work but I can't switch from dual frequency to single frequency and therefore I don't see the various options. By pressing the 0 button the word "wait" appears on the video but the radio stops and you have to turn it off and on again. Do you have some advice? Thank you Graziano - Italy
I see. Basically you connected jumper wrong. You connected it to the ground, that's why it doesn't work. You need to connected to the trace that arrow points to in this picture ibb.co/NS09WK5 Just use your scalpel to expose some copper and connect jumper there.
@@codernov HI, this morning, before reading your message, I thought about creating a new pad to replace the destroyed one where I could connect the jumper on the SI4732 board. I took a copper wire and beat it between two hammers until it was a thin layer and then cut it to size. I soldered the jumper wire to the resistor and the new pad. I put the pad in place of the destroyed one and glued it all around the SI4732 board. It may be beginner's luck but now the CEC firmware has all its functions. I'm keeping your photo and your suggestion in case my repair doesn't work in the future. Thank you very much
I dis my second install of the 2.1 board on a new radio. All the functions worked but there was no reception on HF. Checked all the connections, all looked good. I did some test by injection a signal into the front end and found that anywhere after to little RF amp (R25) I got good signal strength. I think the Rf amp may be bad. Could you offer an idea to confirm this with a test? It also looks like there should be voltage on the collector of R25 during receive but there is zero volts there. So I'm not sure what is causing signal to stop at input of the RF amp.
Beware though, I did testing with that 2SC4226 lna and without it. With it I got sucky results. Without it, all works fine. ruclips.net/user/shortsaH7C9a3aVYY But I guess it could wary depending on your location, city, fm broad cast and other trash in the air.
What is the benefit of having the 2nd antenna? if you cannot use both antennas at the same time and you have BNC connectors isn't it just the same as 1 antenna setup and changing antenna via the BNC or does the 2nd antenna perform better just for the HF mod?
After than 100 nF cap trace for antenna goes into a via (hole) onto the other side of the board and connects to VHF tract. By doing 2nd antenna you don't have entire VHF tract hanging from your antenna. Thus your antenna will be more efficient, and your setup will be more sensitive. Meaning you will be able to hear more weaker signals.
I've managed to screw it up, two things. The PTT circuit beeps to ground, but you state it is voltage @22:37. I don't know if this is the cause of the second problem. Second, the fuse is open, so no power at all going through fuse. Do you have information on what type of fuse it is so I can replace it? Thanks.
Pin 2 is VDD. 2.7 - 3.6 volts according to BK1080 datasheet. I have no idea where you managed to find the fuse, but I would guess there is a fuse somewhere. Use a properly calibrated wire to replace it.
@22:20, maybe my hearing is bad (it is), do you not say that is the fuse pin? The SMD you are testing continuity from to the pin, that SMD has no continuity across it, it is open. I am assuming that is the fuse? It is sized like an 0402 SMD fuse, I just don't know what amperage it should be. And the second pin, for PTT, has the beep to the ground pin opposite of it. Not sure if it is just because the battery is out, but I don't think it is correct. I may just end up pulling the chip and starting over, I need to find a smaller soldering iron tip.
@@darrenpferdehirt First pin, RCLK, external reference clock for crystal oscillator. That thing that you think is a fuse is a capacitor. I think you are fine. Just make sure your soldering is good and you used flux so solder would flow. And turn it on. and see if it works.
A shutout from Brazil. What does it came with the kit? Thanks for the video. I have already bought this kit, but I don't know exactly what are the components in the package. Very good video lots of details.
Awesome video. Thanks for your hard work. I love these radios and electronics. Started soldering boards in 1973! Yeah I’m old but still a bull!😂 1 question….what are the volts of the new led under the buttons? I’ve got a ton of them. Thanx!!!
I don't know the volts. They should all be 3 volts though. Size that I used is 020, but that's only because I had 020 for display. Any size that fits will work. The one I used is side glow, used to change display color.
@@codernov thank you for answering me. As I looked through my toy box of electrical parts I noticed that some of my leds had different voltages especially based on the colors. So thank you again for your thorough videos including the struggles people may encounter doing their radios. God be with you!
Lol 😂 nice vid thanks for all your tips i will use rotary tool, digital temp control paintgun and old weller station i have is cheaper than microscope and other expensive tools i dont have😅 all other tools and spare parts i do have ofcourse 😊❤
where to buy this version? could not find it on any of the sites that I know, on all of them the same picture used on different sites sold by different sellers and none of them is the same that they showing on there installation videos
Tried the patch, installed cec 0.5HF, radio turns on but won't go below 18MHz. Pressing Band Plan shortcut hangs radio. Have to turn off and on to get back. Is there a way to reset the eeprom?
You reset eeprom every time you install firmware. It sounds like firmware is not communicating with Si4732. Recheck your soldering. Make sure you use flux. I had someone show me pic of their job and it was soldered without flux -- oh why don't it work, I'm ready to buy a new one, he said. Flux man. Flux makes solder flow. Without flux you have no business soldering. Because soldering does not happen without flux. You have to recheck your work whether you used flux or not, because from your words communication between Si and radio does not happen.
Appreciate your prompt response @@codernov, I did indeed use flux before soldering. Thanks for confirming that the eeprom get reset with firmware update. I was wondering if something's corrupted there and if I could reset it somehow. I must say, I love watching your videos 🙂 It's become an addiction now and I wait for the next one eagerly to see your cool projects. And you have some superb soldering skills. It's more an art how you go about doing it, it's so much fun to watch 🙂
Just for completeness, the issue I faced was with the patch board being defective. I happened to have a version 1 board which I used instead and the radio works fine on HF. I suppose it's pot luck with these things.
Another Legendary video from the Quansheng Guru of Hardware Modding. I really enjoyed every second of this video till the end. I have the board on my hands and decided to go for the dual antenna setup. Can you summerize the necessary steps of the board installation ? For example, no choke, which jumpers to do, where exactly to soldier the extra antena after the amplifier etc... ? Thanks, and I'm looking forward for your next video with your analytic tests..
DUAL antenna: Start by making a hole for SMA, insert proper SMA (link in pinned comment here), make it flush. Break 4 legs, cut center pin. Next remove RD1080, coil and cap next to it, and cap on ANT input. Solder in FPC board. Make jumper for enable pin. For dual antenna jumping cap is not really necessary. Install IPEX connector. Optionally jump one of the audio resistors. Now remove board from metal base. Remove flashlight LED. Stick board into body, make sure your SMA is flush. If flush, cut pigtail to size, solder pigtail to SMA. Mask SMA. Reassemble.
I've done the Dual Antenna mode with the Dual IPEX Antenna inputs. I followed step by step the instructions in your video and it's working great. Thanks !
Guys, does anyone use the 0.5HF cec? I have the si4732 board installed and apparently it works well, but in the normal VFO which shows up to 18mhz, the reception at 27mhz is almost nil, I can only hear 27mhz by switching to si4732. Is this normal the cec can't hear 27mhz? My radio is the uv-k5(99). Thanks
I don't use that crap -- you heard me correct, crap. Because A) at the end of the day it is just regular firmware with Si support, no spectrum nothing, and B) the source code is not available, so no improvements can be made. I use R3b0rn, you find it on telegram, channel name is uvk5_spectrum_talk ... It has spectrum, it supports Si, and it receives 27 mhz just fine. So no Sir, have no idea what is happening with CEC, nor care about it.
73’s. Very Good job. I did it for single antenna. Install cec 0.41 firmware and when I press 0 button the radio blocked and impossible to to on hf mod. ?
@@codernov yes flashlight work when press ptt and turn it on. Factory service also. Tx/rx work on vhf/uhf but firmware doesn’t want pass hf mode when I press on the 0 button. I don’t understand what is the problem. I Check all the bip bip as you. ??? Radio and screen blocked
The firmware will hang if it can't communicate with the Si4732 - check your soldering and also check that you haven't accidentally displaced and of the tiny SMDs near where the board attaches.
Greetings: Perhaps I missed something? In the beginning I saw a SMA. Later U installed another. Then I saw an added BNC. Finally I saw 2 BNC, which I prefer. Such has answered my Q of if there is room 4 2 BNC. That said, the final project is 2 BNC?
@@Dark_Knight_USA I got 130 inch stick hanging off mine. Be sure to include rings from both sides and screw it down using 8mm socket. Plastic is good, 130 inch stick is probably the maximum size you will have there anyway, anything larger and it will be cable to external antenna.
@@Dark_Knight_USA There are two types of radios these days. 1) radios that everyone talking about because they sending them for reviews so you see everyone on youtube talking about them. 2) radios that people buy and then talk about them. Guess which one is quansheng?
You need low ESR high frequency choke, get NLV32T-471J-EF It is 470 micro henry. Not sure about ali, maybe there is. But sites like Farnell, Mouser, DigiKey, ChipDip, and other electronic components sites carry it. Reason you want this choke is because with regular choke you get parasitic losses while transmitting, some people even managed to burn it. It gets hot.
@@codernov 45:27 I'm really struggling to find this component. There is no link in the description? I can find the Ali page at this point in the video but you say to get a different one instead. The ones with that description "NLV32T-471J-EF" on Mouser etc are a small square inductor? Is that the right one? Superb videos my friend. Thanks for being so detailed 🤘🏻
Thanks that's great. That's what I was asking - is it the small square inductor and not the resistor style component you're using in this video as a choke. I can find the small square component here in the UK. Thanks 🤘🏻
Can you help? I have everything installed well but i only get audio if i jumper a wire between ROUT of the Si4732 and the 8pin area where you solder to the board. if i jumper after the capacitor (the one right after ROUT) to the 8pin connector, I also dont get audio. so its not an issue with the traces, its something with the amp area
Well I have the overview video of this board - ruclips.net/video/aXHe2JjNlyg/видео.html What happens if you jumper after cap and then short that cap with tweezers?
@@codernovthanks for the link to the other vid, i see you measured the incoming signal components, but do you happen to have the capacitor value of the first capacitor that comes from the audio out of the chip? For your test, it works, but that is pretty much same as direct connect I think
@@brianl2607 It proves that there is connection between LOUD ROUT and capacitor. How about if you don't jumper anything and just short that cap. Do you get sound through that amp? I installed the mod, and taking out anything is not an option.
@@codernov Ahhh i see... good thinking. so if i short the cap it doesnt work. basically the only time i get audio is anywhere before the first cap and anywhere after the last cap of the amp. i feel like i may have a short circuit simewhere in the preamp
@@brianl2607 Perhaps I could do a video later this week about the pre amp. I won't be taking out components, but I could measure them in circuit, for what it's worth.. Look, you should jumper after the amp onto 8 leg. After amp you have cap, right after that cap. That way you eliminate the possibility of trace from that last cap to 8 leg being broke.
Use a small solder sucker to remove those components from the board. With the solder removed the components will literally just fall away as there's nothing to hold them on. It's so much easier and much quicker to use a sucker, you'll soon get the hang of it. Get a small one, the bigger suckers are harder to handle.
@@codernov Yes I'm inspired to try a board on my Radio myself but I'll remove components with a sucker. You can lift a chip off of a board in less than 10 seconds that way with no mess...no solder flux...and no clean up needed afterwards. I never use a cleaning spray because the sucker removes everything. OK it takes practice to get the hang of using a solder sucker but that's what professionals use and that's how they get to be pro. Fast, clean and no damage to the circuit board or the component itself..you can reuse it if you want to.
😆Table of contents👀:
0:00 - Teaser
1:40 - Intro
3:38 - Tools & Consumables
7:45 - Disassemble UV-K5
8:41 - How to flick and cut
10:04 - Remove components & clean
18:34 - Install HF FULL BAND mod. w/ preamp version 2.1
32:10 - Decide 1 antenna or 2 antenna
32:55 - TEST where to connect 2nd antenna
37:00 - 1 antenna setup
39:56 - TEST choke for 1 antenna or no choke
42:31 - Recap work done so far 1 antenna
43:17 - 1 antenna install choke, YES you need it
45:37 - 1 antenna DONE!!
47:33 - 2 antenna, remove capacitor
49:31 - IPEX or direct solder
50:35 - Isolate with UV solder mask
54:36 - Install IPEX connector
1:02:06 - Flashlight LED
1:12:38 - If you cut your board, you will short it!
1:14:44 - Relocate flashlight LED
1:17:30 - UV is cheap and EZ
1:18:30 - TEST relocated LED
1:18:40 - Optional LED relocation job done
1:20:31 - Isolate contacts around IPEX connector
1:22:18 - 1 antenna hi-freq low ESR choke
1:23:18 - How long to relocate flashlight LED?
1:23:48 - Cut antenna hole for SMA
1:35:39 - Make SMA flush with body
1:48:43 - Break SMA legs off
1:49:01 - Cut SMA center pin
1:53:06 - Si4732 + Spectrum Band + Spectrum Analyzer?
1:54:40 - Cut pigtail to proper length
1:55:56 - Clean isolation off pigtail
2:01:27 - Solder pigtail to SMA
2:08:40 - Isolate ISA w/ UV mask
2:12:58 - Install SMA
2:14:06 - Reassemble the radio, DONE!!
2:22:01 - Disassemble 2 antenna with IPEX (show off)
2:23:10 - Final SMA possitioning & notes
2:26:05 - Stock antenna & capped SMA
2:26:36 - Stock antenna & BNC on 2nd antenna
2:26:44 - Radio with two BNCs
2:26:51 - Radio with antenna and BNC
2:27:00 - Two antennas at the same time
2:27:19 - Si4732 + Supectrum Analyzer?
2:29:46 - Relocated LED show off
2:30:23 - Two IPEX connectors & BFU550AR low noise
2:31:44 - DONE!! See you in the next one guys!
Choke for single antenna dudes:
Use hi-freq low ESR choke NLV32T-471J-EF, 470 мкГн, 1210, 5%, available on eBay, ali, Farnel, DigiKey, Mouser, ChipDip: www.chipdip.ru/product/nlv32t-471j-ef-470
Parts used:
(if links are broken, let me know)
HF FULL BAND Mod. ver. 2.1 - aliexpress.com/item/1005006856416248.html
Pigtails, 20cm w/ IPEX - aliexpress.com/item/32909354468.html
IPEX connectors - aliexpress.com/item/1005004590059018.html
SMA-F, 18.5mm, get two - aliexpress.com/item/1005002371533134.html
Y BNC-K to SMA-J & Y BNC-K to SMA-K, gold - aliexpress.com/item/1005005558908508.html
SMA dust cap - aliexpress.com/item/1005004722805731.html
50 ohm BNC load - aliexpress.com/item/1005005558967410.html
27 MHz antenna - aliexpress.com/item/1005006651159908.html
RH770 antenna - aliexpress.com/item/1005006101561640.html
RH771S antenna - aliexpress.com/item/1005006909734550.html
FM band stop - aliexpress.com/item/1005005202844390.html
box for FM band stop - aliexpress.com/item/1005002117385683.html
Baofeng volume knob - aliexpress.com/item/1005006445672504.html
UV:
(search ali for better deals if prices change)
(if links are broken let me know)
Cheap UV light, $1 - aliexpress.com/item/1005006079241384.html
Solder mask, $2 - aliexpress.com/item/32963345470.html
Solder mask alternatives, if you don't have $3 - forum.arduino.cc/t/solder-mask-paste-alternatives-solved/626071
Спасибо
Anyone selling a modified version of this already? With the antenna mod
*With the mod(s) does it make this give the capability of TX/RX on SWR?*
@@iyeetsecurity922 This mod, Si4732 is just a secondary SDR which has capability to receive HF.
Awesome as always. Thank you!
I recently got 2 of these boards. One of them was missing the component you see at the very beginning middle top! The YG404Q! Just unbelievable! Got it on eBay.
Thanks Alex l love your videos, you go into every detail, Ive done the eeprom chip now ill have a go at this, very enjoyably, I subscribed this time 😊👍
Thanks from Brazil!
Hi Alex, we are both legends! You because you made such a good and comprehensive video and me because I watched it all in one go!! 😅
I have had this board for weeks but wanted to wait for you to make a video before I tried doing it myself and I am so glad I waited for your video. Thank-you!
OUTSTANDING ! 10/10 and i LOVE the cheesy peeps
Sorry to drop in after the party has mainly broken up but I'm eager to know: When the "all-band" modification is installed, what new frequencies become available? You'd think this an obvious question but I've spent over one hour Googling and no one has commented on this! Thanks,
Anything bellow 18 MHz. 80 meters, 40 meters, 20 meters.
I saw a new version of the mod board on Aliexpress today. It has an IPX connector on the board for the second antenna I'm guessing.
I've done an overview, check it out on my channel
Great video again!
I really enjoyed your video modding these radio. Awesome Guy with a Russian slang ...Cool Bro i like it. i will do my mods next.
Hi, thank you for this video, just wandering about the new choke you have in listing, how is this type fitted ? In the video you show a diffrent choke?
Do we just set it where the old choke you removed is ?
Also what 100nf capacitor did you use ?
Was it the 0603 the 0805 or 1206?
I think 0603, but use whatever fits. You install that low ESR & high freq choke inplace of stock choke.
Thank you
Great video, much patience!!
If this is version 2.1 then what version is the one that has the antenna MHF IPX connector already on it? Unfortunately it doesn’t have a version printed on the board like yours. But that’s the one I ordered yesterday for dual antenna so I guess I’ll find out soon how it works.
2.5 & 5.0
To be honest man, I still like version 2.1, so long as it has improved high quality coils, because I've seen same version with cheap coils. Then you just install BFU550AR LNA and your radio is just as sensitive.
HI,
I followed your video and did the modification on a Quansheng UV-K5 (8). I had problems connecting the pad of the SI4732 V.2 board with resistor (the bridge with the shortest wire).
I destroyed the board pad and I attached the wire with some solder to the board without the pad.
The radio seems to work but I can't switch from dual frequency to single frequency and therefore I don't see the various options.
By pressing the 0 button the word "wait" appears on the video but the radio stops and you have to turn it off and on again.
Do you have some advice?
Thank you
Graziano - Italy
I have contact me link if you go to my channel description. Could you send me some pictures?
Hi, i send you a picture with telegram
I see. Basically you connected jumper wrong. You connected it to the ground, that's why it doesn't work. You need to connected to the trace that arrow points to in this picture ibb.co/NS09WK5
Just use your scalpel to expose some copper and connect jumper there.
@@codernov HI,
this morning, before reading your message, I thought about creating a new pad to replace the destroyed one where I could connect the jumper on the SI4732 board.
I took a copper wire and beat it between two hammers until it was a thin layer and then cut it to size.
I soldered the jumper wire to the resistor and the new pad.
I put the pad in place of the destroyed one and glued it all around the SI4732 board.
It may be beginner's luck but now the CEC firmware has all its functions.
I'm keeping your photo and your suggestion in case my repair doesn't work in the future.
Thank you very much
I dis my second install of the 2.1 board on a new radio. All the functions worked but there was no reception on HF. Checked all the connections, all looked good. I did some test by injection a signal into the front end and found that anywhere after to little RF amp (R25) I got good signal strength. I think the Rf amp may be bad. Could you offer an idea to confirm this with a test? It also looks like there should be voltage on the collector of R25 during receive but there is zero volts there. So I'm not sure what is causing signal to stop at input of the RF amp.
If you move your eyes towards the brown board from R25 there is that jumper from board onto resistor. Its value is 100 ohm. Check, that is 100 ohm.
Beware though, I did testing with that 2SC4226 lna and without it. With it I got sucky results. Without it, all works fine. ruclips.net/user/shortsaH7C9a3aVYY
But I guess it could wary depending on your location, city, fm broad cast and other trash in the air.
What is the benefit of having the 2nd antenna? if you cannot use both antennas at the same time and you have BNC connectors isn't it just the same as 1 antenna setup and changing antenna via the BNC or does the 2nd antenna perform better just for the HF mod?
After than 100 nF cap trace for antenna goes into a via (hole) onto the other side of the board and connects to VHF tract. By doing 2nd antenna you don't have entire VHF tract hanging from your antenna. Thus your antenna will be more efficient, and your setup will be more sensitive. Meaning you will be able to hear more weaker signals.
i have the same telescopic antenna you bought at the end of the video. I recommend checking the SWR if you want to use it for TXing.
Thank you for watching to the end, you trully are a legend 👍
I've managed to screw it up, two things. The PTT circuit beeps to ground, but you state it is voltage @22:37. I don't know if this is the cause of the second problem. Second, the fuse is open, so no power at all going through fuse. Do you have information on what type of fuse it is so I can replace it? Thanks.
Pin 2 is VDD. 2.7 - 3.6 volts according to BK1080 datasheet. I have no idea where you managed to find the fuse, but I would guess there is a fuse somewhere. Use a properly calibrated wire to replace it.
@22:20, maybe my hearing is bad (it is), do you not say that is the fuse pin? The SMD you are testing continuity from to the pin, that SMD has no continuity across it, it is open. I am assuming that is the fuse? It is sized like an 0402 SMD fuse, I just don't know what amperage it should be. And the second pin, for PTT, has the beep to the ground pin opposite of it. Not sure if it is just because the battery is out, but I don't think it is correct. I may just end up pulling the chip and starting over, I need to find a smaller soldering iron tip.
@@darrenpferdehirt First pin, RCLK, external reference clock for crystal oscillator. That thing that you think is a fuse is a capacitor. I think you are fine. Just make sure your soldering is good and you used flux so solder would flow. And turn it on. and see if it works.
@@codernov ok, I will go through it again and check. Thank you.
A shutout from Brazil. What does it came with the kit? Thanks for the video. I have already bought this kit, but I don't know exactly what are the components in the package. Very good video lots of details.
Just the assembled board, nothing else. So if you doing single antenna you'd need 100 nF cap and a choke
What are the benefits of a dual antenna setup other than ease of use, (not having to change out antennas?)
Much greater sensitivity.
Awesome video. Thanks for your hard work. I love these radios and electronics. Started soldering boards in 1973! Yeah I’m old but still a bull!😂
1 question….what are the volts of the new led under the buttons? I’ve got a ton of them.
Thanx!!!
I don't know the volts. They should all be 3 volts though. Size that I used is 020, but that's only because I had 020 for display. Any size that fits will work. The one I used is side glow, used to change display color.
@@codernov thank you for answering me. As I looked through my toy box of electrical parts I noticed that some of my leds had different voltages especially based on the colors. So thank you again for your thorough videos including the struggles people may encounter doing their radios.
God be with you!
Lol 😂 nice vid thanks for all your tips i will use rotary tool, digital temp control paintgun and old weller station i have is cheaper than microscope and other expensive tools i dont have😅 all other tools and spare parts i do have ofcourse 😊❤
Love it.
where to buy this version? could not find it on any of the sites that I know, on all of them the same picture used on different sites sold by different sellers and none of them is the same that they showing on there installation videos
There is a link in pinned comment to this video. Otherwise you search ali for quansheng si4732
Tried the patch, installed cec 0.5HF, radio turns on but won't go below 18MHz. Pressing Band Plan shortcut hangs radio. Have to turn off and on to get back. Is there a way to reset the eeprom?
You reset eeprom every time you install firmware. It sounds like firmware is not communicating with Si4732. Recheck your soldering. Make sure you use flux. I had someone show me pic of their job and it was soldered without flux -- oh why don't it work, I'm ready to buy a new one, he said. Flux man. Flux makes solder flow. Without flux you have no business soldering. Because soldering does not happen without flux. You have to recheck your work whether you used flux or not, because from your words communication between Si and radio does not happen.
Appreciate your prompt response @@codernov, I did indeed use flux before soldering. Thanks for confirming that the eeprom get reset with firmware update. I was wondering if something's corrupted there and if I could reset it somehow.
I must say, I love watching your videos 🙂 It's become an addiction now and I wait for the next one eagerly to see your cool projects. And you have some superb soldering skills. It's more an art how you go about doing it, it's so much fun to watch 🙂
Just for completeness, the issue I faced was with the patch board being defective. I happened to have a version 1 board which I used instead and the radio works fine on HF. I suppose it's pot luck with these things.
Another Legendary video from the Quansheng Guru of Hardware Modding.
I really enjoyed every second of this video till the end.
I have the board on my hands and decided to go for the dual antenna setup.
Can you summerize the necessary steps of the board installation ?
For example, no choke, which jumpers to do, where exactly to soldier the extra antena after the amplifier etc... ?
Thanks, and I'm looking forward for your next video with your analytic tests..
DUAL antenna: Start by making a hole for SMA, insert proper SMA (link in pinned comment here), make it flush. Break 4 legs, cut center pin. Next remove RD1080, coil and cap next to it, and cap on ANT input. Solder in FPC board. Make jumper for enable pin. For dual antenna jumping cap is not really necessary. Install IPEX connector. Optionally jump one of the audio resistors. Now remove board from metal base. Remove flashlight LED. Stick board into body, make sure your SMA is flush. If flush, cut pigtail to size, solder pigtail to SMA. Mask SMA. Reassemble.
I've done the Dual Antenna mode with the Dual IPEX Antenna inputs.
I followed step by step the instructions in your video and it's working great.
Thanks !
Guys, does anyone use the 0.5HF cec?
I have the si4732 board installed and apparently it works well, but in the normal VFO which shows up to 18mhz, the reception at 27mhz is almost nil, I can only hear 27mhz by switching to si4732.
Is this normal the cec can't hear 27mhz?
My radio is the uv-k5(99).
Thanks
I don't use that crap -- you heard me correct, crap. Because A) at the end of the day it is just regular firmware with Si support, no spectrum nothing, and B) the source code is not available, so no improvements can be made. I use R3b0rn, you find it on telegram, channel name is uvk5_spectrum_talk ... It has spectrum, it supports Si, and it receives 27 mhz just fine. So no Sir, have no idea what is happening with CEC, nor care about it.
73’s. Very Good job. I did it for single antenna. Install cec 0.41 firmware and when I press 0 button the radio blocked and impossible to to on hf mod. ?
If you turn it off and press and hold PTT and then turn it on, flashlight should turn on. If not, that means one of the buttons is sticking.
@@codernov yes flashlight work when press ptt and turn it on. Factory service also. Tx/rx work on vhf/uhf but firmware doesn’t want pass hf mode when I press on the 0 button. I don’t understand what is the problem. I Check all the bip bip as you. ??? Radio and screen blocked
@@1cristojojo1 Someone had this same thing happen to them. That means you have to check your work carefully.
The firmware will hang if it can't communicate with the Si4732 - check your soldering and also check that you haven't accidentally displaced and of the tiny SMDs near where the board attaches.
Greetings: Perhaps I missed something? In the beginning I saw a SMA. Later U installed another. Then I saw an added BNC. Finally I saw 2 BNC, which I prefer. Such has answered my Q of if there is room 4 2 BNC. That said, the final project is 2 BNC?
BNC-to-SMA adapter
@@codernov Greetings: Nope. 2 much stress at Base.
@@Dark_Knight_USA I got 130 inch stick hanging off mine. Be sure to include rings from both sides and screw it down using 8mm socket. Plastic is good, 130 inch stick is probably the maximum size you will have there anyway, anything larger and it will be cable to external antenna.
@@codernov Greetings: That does not answer my Q but O well. Not important now. I decided I do not like the radio.
@@Dark_Knight_USA There are two types of radios these days. 1) radios that everyone talking about because they sending them for reviews so you see everyone on youtube talking about them. 2) radios that people buy and then talk about them. Guess which one is quansheng?
The choke links aliexpress? Is 470uh or 470mh? In the video the color stripes is not 470.
You need low ESR high frequency choke, get NLV32T-471J-EF
It is 470 micro henry. Not sure about ali, maybe there is. But sites like Farnell, Mouser, DigiKey, ChipDip, and other electronic components sites carry it.
Reason you want this choke is because with regular choke you get parasitic losses while transmitting, some people even managed to burn it. It gets hot.
@@codernov
45:27
I'm really struggling to find this component. There is no link in the description? I can find the Ali page at this point in the video but you say to get a different one instead. The ones with that description "NLV32T-471J-EF" on Mouser etc are a small square inductor? Is that the right one?
Superb videos my friend. Thanks for being so detailed 🤘🏻
@@gbamck I just entered NLV32T-471J-EF into ali search and got 3 hits. On western ali you should get a lot more hits.
Here is one for example aliexpress.com/item/1005003091167117.html
Thanks that's great. That's what I was asking - is it the small square inductor and not the resistor style component you're using in this video as a choke. I can find the small square component here in the UK. Thanks 🤘🏻
Очень понравилось, спасибо, посмотрел полностью видео, подскажите, а будет демонстрация работы КВ диапазонов на улице ?
Будет
@@codernov хорошо, ждем !
Can you tell me what make and model the second antenna you installed?
On ali look for 27 mhz telescoping antenna or 27 mhz bnc antenna
@@codernov Thank You!!!
Can you help? I have everything installed well but i only get audio if i jumper a wire between ROUT of the Si4732 and the 8pin area where you solder to the board. if i jumper after the capacitor (the one right after ROUT) to the 8pin connector, I also dont get audio. so its not an issue with the traces, its something with the amp area
Well I have the overview video of this board - ruclips.net/video/aXHe2JjNlyg/видео.html
What happens if you jumper after cap and then short that cap with tweezers?
@@codernovthanks for the link to the other vid, i see you measured the incoming signal components, but do you happen to have the capacitor value of the first capacitor that comes from the audio out of the chip? For your test, it works, but that is pretty much same as direct connect I think
@@brianl2607 It proves that there is connection between LOUD ROUT and capacitor. How about if you don't jumper anything and just short that cap. Do you get sound through that amp? I installed the mod, and taking out anything is not an option.
@@codernov Ahhh i see... good thinking. so if i short the cap it doesnt work. basically the only time i get audio is anywhere before the first cap and anywhere after the last cap of the amp. i feel like i may have a short circuit simewhere in the preamp
@@brianl2607 Perhaps I could do a video later this week about the pre amp. I won't be taking out components, but I could measure them in circuit, for what it's worth.. Look, you should jumper after the amp onto 8 leg. After amp you have cap, right after that cap. That way you eliminate the possibility of trace from that last cap to 8 leg being broke.
great vid
Use a small solder sucker to remove those components from the board. With the solder removed the components will literally just fall away as there's nothing to hold them on. It's so much easier and much quicker to use a sucker, you'll soon get the hang of it. Get a small one, the bigger suckers are harder to handle.
The purpose is to inspire average guy. It's much easier to get guy like that to flick or cut or buy low melt, than to buy a sucker.
@@codernov Yes I'm inspired to try a board on my Radio myself but I'll remove components with a sucker.
You can lift a chip off of a board in less than 10 seconds that way with no mess...no solder flux...and no clean up needed afterwards. I never use a cleaning spray because the sucker removes everything.
OK it takes practice to get the hang of using a solder sucker but that's what professionals use and that's how they get to be pro. Fast, clean and no damage to the circuit board or the component itself..you can reuse it if you want to.
@@Technician4444 Make a video for us how you lift the RD1080 with sucker.
You mean the booger sucker? Tossed that in the trash 30 years ago.
I've got a sucker that came with my iron. It doesn't suck, therefore it sucks.
Great Job can you provide link to the correct si4732 v2.1 board ?
There is pinned comment to this video, links to all parts used including the v2.1 board are there. If any of those links are broken, let me know.
Slava Rossii