I ended up with a free extra air fryer from a warranty replacement like that... They said cut the cord and send them a picture, so I did. And since I needed it for supper that night, I then proceeded to reattach the cut cord. All that was wrong with the original unit was a broken handle so I ended up super gluing the handle back on - then being much more careful in how I handled the handles of both units.
Every time I need my electronics engineering and design "fix" I always go to Magic Smoke. Great deep dives on it all. Thanks. - 40 years Retired PCB Engineering -
They were little buggers. We had DRAM problems - we changed a lot because we sued to manufacture CPM PCs. Then an enterprising test engineer found out that most of our 'bad' DRAM chips worked just fine in other manufacturer's equipment. As with comedy-- timing is everything... Not bad Drams but bad design engineers.,,,
94V-0 rating = non-supportive to burning/flame. Thanks for the Tear-down and analysis. - edit - ...and that heat-sink screw/transformer spacial interface was a very good spot. Thanks.
My mate works at company that sells these CTEK chargers, he gave me three dead chargers to play with: 10, 7.0 and 5.0. 10 seems to have the same problem as in your video, 7.0 seems to have the same problem *marct3928* is having and 5.0 has one non working diode on a AC part and one blown i think SMD transistor on a DC part. I hope i can fix at least the 10 one..
Great video, I have a mxs10 a friend was using it to keep his Harley charged up when it stopped working. I do have a background in technology, but never spent enough time doing board level repairs. I also worry about the amount of tech that just gets thrown away, but am sure that most is designed to not last! I bought ctek as a friend had them and they were always good products, his never failed and he has had them longer than me. First I will check how old mine is, see if it might be in warranty, but if not I might just have a look to see if I can see anything obvious inside.
If you leave a CTEK connected to UK mains for any length of time then it will fail. It is a function of the design. I don't have a schematic. Most are quite easy to repair.
Hallo, ich habe eine Frage bitte, ich habe einen Schottky-Gleichrichter STPS30L60CW mit messgerät auf diode Symbol gemessen und zeigt das messgerät 0.144 !!! Würde es normal? Mit freundlichen Grüßen
Will ICE5BR4780BZ work as well for replacement? The ICE3Bxx65J is EOL... If it is not a drop in replace, what should be done to make it work? Is this newer replacemnt more resilient in terms of bootstrap currents?
No it wont. Pin out is different. The ICE3Bxx65J is quite an old chip with Jitter clock to mitigate EMI and make it easier for cheap designs to meet mandatory requirements. I cant find an obvious replacement. Usually there are end of life bulletins that answer the question of the alternatives going forward but I can find one. The best bet is to email Infineon tech support.
Hi Magic smoke, found the video very interesting about the repair of the CTEC MXS10, my CTEC MXS10 has went down on me, it is just over 14 month old, I have the green on light working, but it will not charge, the green on light flashes when left on, any ideas….. Would you be interested in carrying out a repair on this unit…… Regards Kevin
It should be under warranty......Could be anything but probably fixable. If you phone them you can probably get a replacement under warranty. If you do then I would be happy to have a look at it. If they ask you to cut the cables off then cut the mains cable to a about foot long. I have fixed a few duff units that were supposed to be binned when they were replaced under warranty. Especially satisfying.
Hi. I just replaced the AC/DC converter U7 on my MXS10 and repaired a connection to one of the capacitors like you did in this video. I got the unit to start up, and I can switch modes with the button. But it doesn't seem to initiate it's charging cycle. the no 1 LED is on and it never proceeds to turn on the other led's I have tested on a battery which I have also tried to charge with another MXS10. This works fine. Do you have any idea where I should look for the fault, or do you have another video with a similar fault?
Check the tact switch which is very unreliable.They click OK but do not complete the circuit. Check with a multimeter, There are two switch mode power supplies on this board. One small to power the electronics and the large one to supply the bulk charging current. I am wondering if the large one is running. From memory I think you just get one LED when the large supply isn't of line, ??? Check both power supplies are working. Good luck
@@razenby I believe the powersupplies is functioning, and the switch is okay since I can switch between the different charge modes and led's for mode, power, and step 1 in charging cycle is turned on. I only think it is the DC output that isn't working?
I have look. I didn't know anything was outstanding...I will check the video library. It would be the first time that I filmed something and didn't upload it...
I’m taking away from you’re video’s, all great by the way! That a noco brand changer is way better then c-tek ? 1 more question is the Genius 5 charger too much power out put for 12 volt motorcycle or will the unit just self regulate the current down to match the amp hour of the battery as I would like to charge and maintain car batteries as well in the off-season in Canada charge the motorcycle battery. Cheers 🥃🇨🇦
I cant remember about the motorcycle mode (low capacity 12V battery support) is covered by the MXS5 charger. You do need a lower current for smaller 12V batteries so teh best bet is to download the CTEK manual and have a look.
I have CTEK MXS 7.0. The fault is the programme gets to the second stage , and remains there forever and I keep hearing something switching on and off , the output dc voltage switching between 8V and 11V . Could it be a failed MOSFET ?
The NOCO Genius 2 or 5 are the best ones I have tested for unattended long-term support charging. You need temperature compensation, accurate voltage measurement and reliable power supply. Ignore the marking snake oil claims about regenerating failed batteries.
Hello! I'm considering placing brass rivets into the through holes in my PCB designs wherever high power is expected to flow or a heavy component -- such as an electrolytic or a transformer -- would be mounted. Do you think it would be worthwhile? Thanks!
Before through hole plating they used to use rivets on late 60s TVs. If you have high currents, these days it is easier to use multiple larger plated-through holes to stitch tracks on different layers . If you have very high currents then if you can, try to keep the power tracking on the same side. Put solder pads on both sides on plated holes for through-hole components. Make sure you mask your vias. Large components like caps and inductors can flex the via fracturing the through hole plated sleeve, so don't route tracks to the blind unsoldered side on these components. Use separate via(s) nearby to to connect the net to the component leg. Never transfer power from one layer to another layer using a through leg hole of a bulky component.
VIDEO ERROR HAS RETURNED - 43' TO 50' Video frozen for over 6 minutes, Audio OK. Looks like your attempt to fix frozen vision (as commented earlier) has again failed. Maybe RUclips has reverted to original upload for some reason? Could we describe this as an intermittent fault? :) Nice topic & I like your chatty style of diagnostics. Very watchable, even the frozen 6.5 mins is educational.
I got caught out a few times, by testing discrete semiconductors with the multimeter on diode test. Its difficult to determine leakage at higher voltages. I tend to use a dedicated test rig for that purpose now 👍
I know what you mean but many years of experience has taught me that Semiconductor junctions go short or open when there is serious power around. A leak turns into an avalanche and failure.
Hello! Thanks for putting these videos up. I've watched a few of the CTEK repairs now as my MXS7.0 charger from 2015 recently died, and is out of warranty. It was very hot, with no LEDs lit when I went to check on it. I was hoping it would be the snubber diode similar to the MXS5 you repaired, but the board is completely different - and the failure completely different. It appears to have suffered a severe thermal event on the secondary side. I can see two burnt diodes and an incinerated resistor under the transformer, all "through-hole" components. There's also evidence of heat damage to the PCB next to the primary side heatsink, but I can't see what the component is. As I can't tell the type or value of the burnt failed parts, I'm unlikely to be able to repair it myself. Would you like it for an autopsy?
@@alfredguga6293No. I ended up replacing it with a NOCO Genius 5, which got good reviews here. No complaints 1 year on. The CTEK is still in pieces. I think it will go in the electronics recycling bin next time I go to the tip.
Hi. I have been using a ctek mxs 10 charger for 6 years almost every week to charge more cars. I haven't experienced any mistakes so far, I'm very happy with it. I do not use the temp.sensor. But recently I was looking at the Tecmate optimate 7 (tm-250 EU ver.) Battery charger. Do you have any opinions about it? I would be curious. Thanks, hi.
Seems reliable so long as it doesn't get damp. I have an optimate here but haven't tested it yet. If you are leaving a battery on support for extended periods then it is best to employ temperature compensation.
Hey, I want to reapair my ctek mxs10 too. I found out that the resistor R4 is damaged. It's located next to the entrance fuse. The R4 looks Like a varistor (Green one). Do you know how many ohms this part should have? I measured 11-14 ohms. The entrance fuse is melted trough. Do you know a solution why the R4 ist damaged. There musst be a short circuit. All other parts Looks good. Best regards Roger
Most probably the FETs are blown so you will have to change the chip , the FETs - meter any diodes you can find, check every resistor that has a value of less than 300 ohms. Also check the reservoir capacitor and the bridge rectifier. Rig up a 40W flilament light bulb in series with the mains before you turn it on.
@@razenby i fixed it. All Fets were damaged. The resistor R4, a Diode and the entrance fuse. Thanks for your response😊✌️. Good feeling to avoid electronic waste
The circuitry that controls the profile of the current Vs terminal voltage and the cut off voltage when the charge is complete to match the requirements for selected battery chemistry.
I know this is bit off the subject but i have a Voltronic Sine Wave Long run 1000va UPS. This unit uses a external 100Ah battery to keep your equipment running for extended periods. This unit stopped working and when i opened it up it has a small bosrd where the incoming filter is on and it has places for 6 varistors for suge protection but none installed and a place on the PCB for a gas surge arrestor but not fitted. It has 2 pins and probably about the size of a 1/2 w resistor. The varistors are easy enought to fit (guess they would be 275v) but any suggestions as to what the gas arrestor would be? Another stupid design with no surge arrestors but if they had been installed i would probably not be replacing blown parts at this stage. Thanks, any advice would be most appreciated.
@@derekmarshall2169 The gas surge arrestor is basically a spark gap with a mix of gasses that defines the breakdown. They are fast and can absorb huge current spikes. I have used them in place of PCB spark spark gaps which are very hit and miss. For fast transients they have been somewhat superseded by fast semiconductor breakdown diodes. Varistors are good for a surge but not so good for fast spikes. I suspect it would be a to 2KV breakdown voltage rating - the fact that they didn't populate it suggests that it was deemed to be unnecessary for production units. Is it connected toe external serial data lines for unit monitoring and control or on the mains between live and ground?
@@razenby it has a serial connection for software montoring on a pc but fortunately the pc wasnt connected at the time. I found a bridge rectifier that appeared to kook ok but all 4 diodes inside were open circuit and replaced it and the unit now switches on but doesnt charge the battery or run off the battery. Will continue today. Thanks for your advice , i have kearnt a lot from your videos one of them being not to buy ctek. I see Victron bought out a similar smart charger to ctek and it is about the same size but surprise, it claims to be able to charge a dead battery. That would be a first for smart chargers!
Hallo, bei mir sind die beiden Mosfet 3D030lPBM auf der unteren Seite auf der Sekundär Seite durch gebrannt. Ich finde diesen Typ nirgends zu kaufen. Hat jemand eine Idee, wo man diese Mosfets noch bekommt, oder einen Vergleichstyp? Danke und Gruss Frank
Hi Frank, that was a tricky one that took some digging. You need part number PSMN3R0-30YLD . Widely available (ONSEMI),NEXPERIA).. if you want the original brand in your charger then see www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003779337889.html Apart from that I don't have a clue!! Remember to subscribe I just spent 15 minutes locating that generic part number!
@@razenby Not many folks might know of Ribena. But we from the Commonwealth all know it and love it. Malaysia, Singapore, maybe Aussie & NZ too. Hong Kong as well. Might be interesting to stick a conductivity probe into a cup of Ribena and see what the readings are.
Love your vids and your ethics. I always take a look when anything electrical stops working. I'm not a trained engineer (so I'm very careful) but did a lot of electronic assembly work at one time. I've saved a lot of money and lots of stuff from landfill just by fixing dry solder joints. I'm in the market for a new battery charger is there one you would recommend? (my guess is it won't be a CTEK).
I haven't tried that many so can only speak from experience. If you need an occasional charger to get you going then any of the smart cheap ones are good value for money. If you want to do support charging of parked vehicles then the NOCO range are much better built and designed than most. I use a NOCO Genius 2 on my Jag in storage.
@@razenby Thanks. I've just bought a NOCO 10 (£82.00 on ebay) for general battery recharging (so was absorbed by the series of vids you've made about the NOCO's) but also bought a CTEK from Lidls for £60.00 for maintenance charging of the other half's R32 Golf which spend most of it's time in my garage. I think the CTEK is going back and I'm going to get a NOCO 2. Who would ever have thought a RUclips series about battery chargers could be so interesting. Cheers for taking the time to do this.
I really wonder what happened here? What caused it to fail? Customer dropped it and leaving it outside in the rain/water? I have my trusty Ctek MXS5.0 the first version. Working great. Though im in thinking of upgrading/replacing to Ctek PRO25S or MXS25 For some more punch. I hope PRO25S has a better design. But if it fails they replace it :)
Bad manufacturing quality caused it to fail. Most faults like this are due to schoolboy designers. I know I managed development engineering team for over 20 years. Without someone to clip their ear and put them straight they create some ridiculous designs. The CTEK range is a shining example of what you get if inexperienced engineers are unfettered to create what they please.
And i didn't even see a cup of tea or coffee to lubricate the brain, disgusting :-D Smashing repair :-D i hate through hole plating as it dies in silence. A nightmare in old computers :-( I hope the nut on the flywheel wasn't a left handed thread, it catches people out.
Thanks, It was RH thread. I repaired by 3/4" impact gun. I bypassed teh regulator and connected it direct to the 140PSI air cylinder with a decent bore hose. It came off immediately smoking in the socket. Those guns can impart some real energy. Very satisfying,
@@tomastomasikk7838 Not to hand. What has blown. The auxiliary infineon PWM management chip for the control logic chip supply is detailed in one of the MXS10 videos.
Good point, I would say that making an unreliable product counterproductive. Personally I am definitely not asking for battery chargers to repair. My only interest is saving this stuff from landfill and I do object to end users and mother earth being penalised due to lazy design practices.
I ended up with a free extra air fryer from a warranty replacement like that... They said cut the cord and send them a picture, so I did. And since I needed it for supper that night, I then proceeded to reattach the cut cord. All that was wrong with the original unit was a broken handle so I ended up super gluing the handle back on - then being much more careful in how I handled the handles of both units.
Thanks for watching. Good job.
Every time I need my electronics engineering and design "fix" I always go to Magic Smoke. Great deep dives on it all. Thanks. - 40 years Retired PCB Engineering -
Thanks for watching. You should get back into designing PCBs the current batch of engineers make some real howlers!!
@@razenby interesting, I do miss it though.
Thanks for posting Magic Smoke. Got mine going
Very satisfying. Good job. What was the fault on yours? Thanks for watching. remember to like and subscibe.
cUTTING THOSE LEGS REMINDED ME OF ALL THE DRAMS i REPLACED IN THE 80'S
damn capslock
They were little buggers. We had DRAM problems - we changed a lot because we sued to manufacture CPM PCs. Then an enterprising test engineer found out that most of our 'bad' DRAM chips worked just fine in other manufacturer's equipment. As with comedy-- timing is everything... Not bad Drams but bad design engineers.,,,
NOT a boring video at all !!!!!!!
Thanks. Reassuring.
94V-0 rating = non-supportive to burning/flame. Thanks for the Tear-down and analysis. - edit - ...and that heat-sink screw/transformer spacial interface was a very good spot. Thanks.
Yh V-0 rated material is supposed to self extinguish when the ignition source is removed. In my case a blowtorch.
My mate works at company that sells these CTEK chargers, he gave me three dead chargers to play with: 10, 7.0 and 5.0. 10 seems to have the same problem as in your video, 7.0 seems to have the same problem *marct3928* is having and 5.0 has one non working diode on a AC part and one blown i think SMD transistor on a DC part. I hope i can fix at least the 10 one..
Good luck with the repair. Damp gets to them.
Great video, I have a mxs10 a friend was using it to keep his Harley charged up when it stopped working. I do have a background in technology, but never spent enough time doing board level repairs. I also worry about the amount of tech that just gets thrown away, but am sure that most is designed to not last! I bought ctek as a friend had them and they were always good products, his never failed and he has had them longer than me.
First I will check how old mine is, see if it might be in warranty, but if not I might just have a look to see if I can see anything obvious inside.
If you leave a CTEK connected to UK mains for any length of time then it will fail. It is a function of the design. I don't have a schematic. Most are quite easy to repair.
Hallo, ich habe eine Frage bitte, ich habe einen Schottky-Gleichrichter STPS30L60CW mit messgerät auf diode Symbol gemessen und zeigt das messgerät 0.144 !!! Würde es normal?
Mit freundlichen Grüßen
Ja, ein Durchlassspannungsabfall von 0,144 V mit einem Multimeter bei der Dioden-Durchgangsprüfung ist ganz normal.
Will ICE5BR4780BZ work as well for replacement? The ICE3Bxx65J is EOL...
If it is not a drop in replace, what should be done to make it work? Is this newer replacemnt more resilient in terms of bootstrap currents?
No it wont. Pin out is different. The ICE3Bxx65J is quite an old chip with Jitter clock to mitigate EMI and make it easier for cheap designs to meet mandatory requirements. I cant find an obvious replacement. Usually there are end of life bulletins that answer the question of the alternatives going forward but I can find one. The best bet is to email Infineon tech support.
Hi Magic smoke, found the video very interesting about the repair of the CTEC MXS10, my CTEC MXS10 has went down on me, it is just over 14 month old, I have the green on light working, but it will not charge, the green on light flashes when left on, any ideas…..
Would you be interested in carrying out a repair on this unit……
Regards Kevin
It should be under warranty......Could be anything but probably fixable. If you phone them you can probably get a replacement under warranty. If you do then I would be happy to have a look at it. If they ask you to cut the cables off then cut the mains cable to a about foot long. I have fixed a few duff units that were supposed to be binned when they were replaced under warranty. Especially satisfying.
Hi. I just replaced the AC/DC converter U7 on my MXS10 and repaired a connection to one of the capacitors like you did in this video. I got the unit to start up, and I can switch modes with the button. But it doesn't seem to initiate it's charging cycle. the no 1 LED is on and it never proceeds to turn on the other led's I have tested on a battery which I have also tried to charge with another MXS10. This works fine. Do you have any idea where I should look for the fault, or do you have another video with a similar fault?
Check the tact switch which is very unreliable.They click OK but do not complete the circuit. Check with a multimeter, There are two switch mode power supplies on this board. One small to power the electronics and the large one to supply the bulk charging current. I am wondering if the large one is running. From memory I think you just get one LED when the large supply isn't of line, ??? Check both power supplies are working. Good luck
@@razenby I believe the powersupplies is functioning, and the switch is okay since I can switch between the different charge modes and led's for mode, power, and step 1 in charging cycle is turned on. I only think it is the DC output that isn't working?
Hello. Maybe you have next part this repair. I have the same problem with my CTEK MXS10. Button work, LED light but I don't have output :(
I have look. I didn't know anything was outstanding...I will check the video library. It would be the first time that I filmed something and didn't upload it...
I’m taking away from you’re video’s, all great by the way! That a noco brand changer is way better then c-tek ? 1 more question is the Genius 5 charger too much power out put for 12 volt motorcycle or will the unit just self regulate the current down to match the amp hour of the battery as I would like to charge and maintain car batteries as well in the off-season in Canada charge the motorcycle battery. Cheers 🥃🇨🇦
I cant remember about the motorcycle mode (low capacity 12V battery support) is covered by the MXS5 charger. You do need a lower current for smaller 12V batteries so teh best bet is to download the CTEK manual and have a look.
I have CTEK MXS 7.0. The fault is the programme gets to the second stage , and remains there forever and I keep hearing something switching on and off , the output dc voltage switching between 8V and 11V .
Could it be a failed MOSFET ?
Try it on a god battery. If the battery is bad and not responding to charge then it wont progress..
Is there a charger you recommend for trickling a car that's parked up outside indefinitely and run once a month? Should I go solar?
The NOCO Genius 2 or 5 are the best ones I have tested for unattended long-term support charging. You need temperature compensation, accurate voltage measurement and reliable power supply. Ignore the marking snake oil claims about regenerating failed batteries.
Hello! I'm considering placing brass rivets into the through holes in my PCB designs wherever high power is expected to flow or a heavy component -- such as an electrolytic or a transformer -- would be mounted. Do you think it would be worthwhile? Thanks!
Before through hole plating they used to use rivets on late 60s TVs. If you have high currents, these days it is easier to use multiple larger plated-through holes to stitch tracks on different layers . If you have very high currents then if you can, try to keep the power tracking on the same side. Put solder pads on both sides on plated holes for through-hole components. Make sure you mask your vias. Large components like caps and inductors can flex the via fracturing the through hole plated sleeve, so don't route tracks to the blind unsoldered side on these components. Use separate via(s) nearby to to connect the net to the component leg. Never transfer power from one layer to another layer using a through leg hole of a bulky component.
VIDEO ERROR HAS RETURNED - 43' TO 50' Video frozen for over 6 minutes, Audio OK.
Looks like your attempt to fix frozen vision (as commented earlier) has again failed. Maybe RUclips has reverted to original upload for some reason?
Could we describe this as an intermittent fault? :)
Nice topic & I like your chatty style of diagnostics. Very watchable, even the frozen 6.5 mins is educational.
Thanks for the heads up - ill check my local copy and sort it out.
I got caught out a few times, by testing discrete semiconductors with the multimeter on diode test. Its difficult to determine leakage at higher voltages. I tend to use a dedicated test rig for that purpose now 👍
I know what you mean but many years of experience has taught me that Semiconductor junctions go short or open when there is serious power around. A leak turns into an avalanche and failure.
Hello! Thanks for putting these videos up. I've watched a few of the CTEK repairs now as my MXS7.0 charger from 2015 recently died, and is out of warranty. It was very hot, with no LEDs lit when I went to check on it. I was hoping it would be the snubber diode similar to the MXS5 you repaired, but the board is completely different - and the failure completely different. It appears to have suffered a severe thermal event on the secondary side. I can see two burnt diodes and an incinerated resistor under the transformer, all "through-hole" components. There's also evidence of heat damage to the PCB next to the primary side heatsink, but I can't see what the component is. As I can't tell the type or value of the burnt failed parts, I'm unlikely to be able to repair it myself. Would you like it for an autopsy?
Send picture to ark.mail@gmx.com make them close up and in sharp focus.
@@razenby Done!
Hello, you had any luck in fixing it?
@@alfredguga6293No. I ended up replacing it with a NOCO Genius 5, which got good reviews here. No complaints 1 year on. The CTEK is still in pieces. I think it will go in the electronics recycling bin next time I go to the tip.
Hi.
I have been using a ctek mxs 10 charger for 6 years almost every week to charge more cars. I haven't experienced any mistakes so far, I'm very happy with it. I do not use the temp.sensor.
But recently I was looking at the Tecmate optimate 7 (tm-250 EU ver.) Battery charger. Do you have any opinions about it? I would be curious.
Thanks, hi.
Seems reliable so long as it doesn't get damp. I have an optimate here but haven't tested it yet. If you are leaving a battery on support for extended periods then it is best to employ temperature compensation.
Achso der schottky ist eingebaut vom Ladegerät ctek multi 25000. ☺️ Danke
Sehr interessant Danke.
Hey,
I want to reapair my ctek mxs10 too.
I found out that the resistor R4 is damaged. It's located next to the entrance fuse. The R4 looks Like a varistor (Green one). Do you know how many ohms this part should have? I measured 11-14 ohms. The entrance fuse is melted trough. Do you know a solution why the R4 ist damaged. There musst be a short circuit. All other parts Looks good.
Best regards
Roger
Most probably the FETs are blown so you will have to change the chip , the FETs - meter any diodes you can find, check every resistor that has a value of less than 300 ohms. Also check the reservoir capacitor and the bridge rectifier. Rig up a 40W flilament light bulb in series with the mains before you turn it on.
@@razenby i fixed it. All Fets were damaged. The resistor R4, a Diode and the entrance fuse. Thanks for your response😊✌️. Good feeling to avoid electronic waste
Whats the difference between a lead acid and lithium ion battery charger internally?
The circuitry that controls the profile of the current Vs terminal voltage and the cut off voltage when the charge is complete to match the requirements for selected battery chemistry.
@@razenby so is Noco the king?
Great video. Have you had any interaction or feedback from CTek?
Thanks. If they had any sense they would pay me to design it for them..
I know this is bit off the subject but i have a Voltronic Sine Wave Long run 1000va UPS. This unit uses a external 100Ah battery to keep your equipment running for extended periods. This unit stopped working and when i opened it up it has a small bosrd where the incoming filter is on and it has places for 6 varistors for suge protection but none installed and a place on the PCB for a gas surge arrestor but not fitted. It has 2 pins and probably about the size of a 1/2 w resistor. The varistors are easy enought to fit (guess they would be 275v) but any suggestions as to what the gas arrestor would be? Another stupid design with no surge arrestors but if they had been installed i would probably not be replacing blown parts at this stage. Thanks, any advice would be most appreciated.
@@derekmarshall2169 The gas surge arrestor is basically a spark gap with a mix of gasses that defines the breakdown. They are fast and can absorb huge current spikes. I have used them in place of PCB spark spark gaps which are very hit and miss. For fast transients they have been somewhat superseded by fast semiconductor breakdown diodes. Varistors are good for a surge but not so good for fast spikes. I suspect it would be a to 2KV breakdown voltage rating - the fact that they didn't populate it suggests that it was deemed to be unnecessary for production units. Is it connected toe external serial data lines for unit monitoring and control or on the mains between live and ground?
@@razenby it has a serial connection for software montoring on a pc but fortunately the pc wasnt connected at the time. I found a bridge rectifier that appeared to kook ok but all 4 diodes inside were open circuit and replaced it and the unit now switches on but doesnt charge the battery or run off the battery. Will continue today. Thanks for your advice , i have kearnt a lot from your videos one of them being not to buy ctek. I see Victron bought out a similar smart charger to ctek and it is about the same size but surprise, it claims to be able to charge a dead battery. That would be a first for smart chargers!
@@razenby where can I find the names of the components I need to replace?
Hallo,
bei mir sind die beiden Mosfet 3D030lPBM auf der unteren Seite auf der Sekundär Seite durch gebrannt. Ich finde diesen Typ nirgends zu kaufen. Hat jemand eine Idee, wo man diese Mosfets noch bekommt, oder einen Vergleichstyp?
Danke und Gruss
Frank
Hi Frank, that was a tricky one that took some digging. You need part number PSMN3R0-30YLD . Widely available (ONSEMI),NEXPERIA).. if you want the original brand in your charger then see www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003779337889.html Apart from that I don't have a clue!! Remember to subscribe I just spent 15 minutes locating that generic part number!
i love Ribena too...
It is the devils cocktail when it gets on a circuit board!!!
@@razenby Not many folks might know of Ribena. But we from the Commonwealth all know it and love it. Malaysia, Singapore, maybe Aussie & NZ too. Hong Kong as well. Might be interesting to stick a conductivity probe into a cup of Ribena and see what the readings are.
Love your vids and your ethics. I always take a look when anything electrical stops working. I'm not a trained engineer (so I'm very careful) but did a lot of electronic assembly work at one time. I've saved a lot of money and lots of stuff from landfill just by fixing dry solder joints.
I'm in the market for a new battery charger is there one you would recommend? (my guess is it won't be a CTEK).
I haven't tried that many so can only speak from experience. If you need an occasional charger to get you going then any of the smart cheap ones are good value for money. If you want to do support charging of parked vehicles then the NOCO range are much better built and designed than most. I use a NOCO Genius 2 on my Jag in storage.
@@razenby Thanks. I've just bought a NOCO 10 (£82.00 on ebay) for general battery recharging (so was absorbed by the series of vids you've made about the NOCO's) but also bought a CTEK from Lidls for £60.00 for maintenance charging of the other half's R32 Golf which spend most of it's time in my garage. I think the CTEK is going back and I'm going to get a NOCO 2. Who would ever have thought a RUclips series about battery chargers could be so interesting. Cheers for taking the time to do this.
I really wonder what happened here? What caused it to fail? Customer dropped it and leaving it outside in the rain/water?
I have my trusty Ctek MXS5.0 the first version. Working great. Though im in thinking of upgrading/replacing to Ctek PRO25S or MXS25
For some more punch. I hope PRO25S has a better design. But if it fails they replace it :)
Bad manufacturing quality caused it to fail. Most faults like this are due to schoolboy designers. I know I managed development engineering team for over 20 years. Without someone to clip their ear and put them straight they create some ridiculous designs. The CTEK range is a shining example of what you get if inexperienced engineers are unfettered to create what they please.
@@razenby have they replied to you?
Den gröna r4 på inkommande vilket värde har den
Jag vet tyvärr inte och jag har ingen här att kolla.
And i didn't even see a cup of tea or coffee to lubricate the brain, disgusting :-D
Smashing repair :-D i hate through hole plating as it dies in silence.
A nightmare in old computers :-(
I hope the nut on the flywheel wasn't a left handed thread, it catches people out.
Thanks, It was RH thread. I repaired by 3/4" impact gun. I bypassed teh regulator and connected it direct to the 140PSI air cylinder with a decent bore hose. It came off immediately smoking in the socket. Those guns can impart some real energy. Very satisfying,
I appreciate that the guy wouldn't use this product, but it would be helpful if he showed his recommendation product that he would prefer.
Noco Genius 5 is my goto charger.
@@razenby Thanks!
Hi my charger has packed up can you repair for me please it’s for my cordless Rachet
What make ratchet is it?
@@razenby sorry there’s no make on it there power going to the charger but nothing happened when you put the battery in thanks for your reply.
where can I find the names of the components I need to replace?
Sorry, you will have to identify the failed parts and check their markings to find out the device number.
@@razenby so you do not have the names of the components? I have it blurred too
@@tomastomasikk7838 Not to hand. What has blown. The auxiliary infineon PWM management chip for the control logic chip supply is detailed in one of the MXS10 videos.
Nice god bless
Thank you! You too!
🙏🏻👍🏻
Hi Jim.
Are they worth paying someone to repair them?
I can understand repairing it yourself but paying someone seems counterproductive.
Good point, I would say that making an unreliable product counterproductive. Personally I am definitely not asking for battery chargers to repair. My only interest is saving this stuff from landfill and I do object to end users and mother earth being penalised due to lazy design practices.