🇺🇦 Hi Dan. Thanks for that Dan. Didn't realise they were that dirty. Bought from ebay and Spalding toy fair in your great company. Love the dedication you put into your repairs. Keep safe buddy. DELPH JUNCTION
The failure of the bushes on driving wheels is something you see more often in N gauge locos, particularly on minitrix and lima locos, but they are now getting on for 50 years old. Its an easy fix, though with superglue providing you get the back to back correct.
That power bogie is, in my opinion, far and away the best design to come out of Tri-ang, what with proper armature shaft bearings and ball bearings to take the end thrust; by comparison, the bogie on the Class 37 is a horrible device. I've had my DMU since 1962 and it has always been one of the best running locos in my collection. One of my vintage has no interior fitted and no head lamp, but years ago I discovered that one front bogie wheel on each side was actually brass - they were black with age and only revealed themselves during a good clean up - presumably to power the (unfitted) head lamp. The wheels on mine are not of the pinpoint axle design but the earlier open axle box type. Anyway I fitted pick-ups to them and improved the running no end over points and crossings. Later, I replaced the wheels completely with Ultrascale ones (the original drivers were knurled and very noisy). Just to bring it up to date I also converted it to DCC operation which it took to like a duck to water. Obviously, it can't hold a candle to modern locos in terms of detail, but it has a charm and sentimental value to me that is beyond price and it runs every bit as well as a new loco.
The older power cars have knelled drive wheels fitted and they do not like Nickle-Silver track, but it runs very well on steel track. I am currently working on my A1 Flying Scotsman. My older brother has an A1 and that is the one we had as kids. Mine belonged to my Uncle Jack who worked on the Railway from the age of 14 until he was 65. Who had it before I do not know, but somebody had overtighten the Base Keeper Plate Screws. the brass one just turned and turned and wouldn't come out until a bit of leverage. the brass thread in the Keeper Plate had a wire attached to it when it was made and the loco coupling has the brass fork on it. The wire was broken off when the screw was over tightened, Hence for the reason the loco did ni=ot move. Applying a 9 volt battery to the ring field motor bush and springs the Tender run perfect. I now have 7 locomotives awaiting spar parts. Keep up the good work. Martin. ( Thailand)
Very nostalgic. I remember when these came out, and railway modelling was fun!!
🇺🇦
Hi Dan.
Thanks for that Dan. Didn't realise they were that dirty.
Bought from ebay and Spalding toy fair in your great company.
Love the dedication you put into your repairs.
Keep safe buddy.
DELPH JUNCTION
Nice job Dan
Nick Australia
Hi Dan, glad you did a Trash to Track on this model. This one is on my to get list. All the best. Carl.
Hi Dan the model you have with the A7 headcode box was produced from 1975 to 1977
Nice sets 👍
The failure of the bushes on driving wheels is something you see more often in N gauge locos, particularly on minitrix and lima locos, but they are now getting on for 50 years old. Its an easy fix, though with superglue providing you get the back to back correct.
That power bogie is, in my opinion, far and away the best design to come out of Tri-ang, what with proper armature shaft bearings and ball bearings to take the end thrust; by comparison, the bogie on the Class 37 is a horrible device. I've had my DMU since 1962 and it has always been one of the best running locos in my collection. One of my vintage has no interior fitted and no head lamp, but years ago I discovered that one front bogie wheel on each side was actually brass - they were black with age and only revealed themselves during a good clean up - presumably to power the (unfitted) head lamp. The wheels on mine are not of the pinpoint axle design but the earlier open axle box type. Anyway I fitted pick-ups to them and improved the running no end over points and crossings. Later, I replaced the wheels completely with Ultrascale ones (the original drivers were knurled and very noisy). Just to bring it up to date I also converted it to DCC operation which it took to like a duck to water. Obviously, it can't hold a candle to modern locos in terms of detail, but it has a charm and sentimental value to me that is beyond price and it runs every bit as well as a new loco.
The older power cars have knelled drive wheels fitted and they do not like Nickle-Silver track, but it runs very well on steel track. I am currently working on my A1 Flying Scotsman. My older brother has an A1 and that is the one we had as kids. Mine belonged to my Uncle Jack who worked on the Railway from the age of 14 until he was 65. Who had it before I do not know, but somebody had overtighten the Base Keeper Plate Screws. the brass one just turned and turned and wouldn't come out until a bit of leverage. the brass thread in the Keeper Plate had a wire attached to it when it was made and the loco coupling has the brass fork on it. The wire was broken off when the screw was over tightened, Hence for the reason the loco did ni=ot move. Applying a 9 volt battery to the ring field motor bush and springs the Tender run perfect. I now have 7 locomotives awaiting spar parts. Keep up the good work. Martin. ( Thailand)
another very interesting video there what is the standard measurement for the wheels back to back
14.5mm is the accepted standard.