Not to be a hater, a couple of points here: 1. there IS a ratchet type adjuster on the spreader bar (just under the wheel cylinder) 2.The park brake cable is likely seized in the apply position (notice how far forward the lever is and compressed the return spring is) 3. The innermost seal is shot, and should be replaced 4. The axle nut should be replaced with a new one. (I admit, I have reused them with locktite) 5. As you are torquing the nut in three steps, the drum should be turned CCW 10 times between each step to seat the bearings. 6. Final torque should be 173 ft/lbs. not 90.
This person is correct on the whole procedure with the exception of one little detail. and that is there's a tone ring on the backside of the hub/drum assembly. that is incorporated with the seal. and sometimes they are damaged when the wheel bearing fails. and will have to be replaced or the check ABS light will come on.
Thumbs up for showing parts you even struggled with. These videos be making it look way to easy but when you attempt it yourself it’s a different story
@@FixingWithPassion even the real deal would watch this guy's videos about 2 cycle carbs ect. He has an accent maybe England but man you'll learn something from each of his detailed illustrations each time .
@Waylon Tristian both of these accounts are fake. "InstaPortal" is a scam website that steals people's money once they get their credit card number on their fake website.
Torque spec: 174 ft-lb while turning drum counterclockwise at least 10 turns while tightening. Also, on ABS equipped cars, the magnetic side of the bearing shield goes towards the speed sensor.
Thanks for this! A lot of these commercial videos from garages and stuff, the video is 8 minutes long and they make it seem like that's all it takes. I've done enough mechanical work to know it's never that easy! Nice to see a realistic video with realistic expectations! Good job buddy 👌🏻
Two notes: 1) that axle nut should be tourqued to 173 lbs 2) there IS an adjustment for the brake shoes, to let them contract, or push them out. I can even see it in your shot, it's on the right side of the upper sprinkler bracket, just underneath the spring bracket, you'll see two little notched "gears". Stick a flathead screwdriver in between them and ratchet to open them. To close them, put the flathead to the right of the right gear and pry back. :) Hope that helps, great video!
If you want to attempt installing the bearing without a press, put the bearing in the freezer overnight and put the hub in a 250F oven for and hour or so. Makes a HUGE difference. Sometimes they almost slide right in with a block of wood.
at 21:24 you said," there was no adjustment for these shoes ".....correction ....take a screw driver and re-adjust the self adjuster ( located at the 1oclock position ),(allowing the brake shoe to be squeezed in all the way before reinstalling the drum ,it will make the drum slide right on ...that being said... when your done putting tire back on and the vehicle is on the ground, place car in reverse and pull up on emergency brake handle a few times and it will automatically reset the shoes where they need to be .... no disrespect intended ...just a little info !! good video ,very helpful for those thats never completed this task !! thanks for the video !!
TIP, put the brake drum in a hot oven for 15 minutes and you can even put the bearing in the freezer and in most cases the new bearing will drop straight in :+)
I replaced a bearing a few months ago and had the same problem with the race not coming off. I'm an inexperienced wrencher but on my own I figured out to do basically what you suggested. I did end up grinding the old one off. Unfortunately I damaged the spindle with the grinder but was able to sand it smooth enough to get the bearing back over it (using some force). I suspect it might not last long though. It's great to see a video of the job not going as expected - because we all know no job ever gets done without something unexpected happening.
Thank you for your video. Its going to help me replace mine. Love my little ZX5. Very educational. Didn't miss a step. I highly appreciate the struggle when pulling the "racer" off. Many don't film their struggles. Now I know what the job really consists of when replacing mine. This helps many people. Thank you again.
Very informative, however there's a few things as an ASE tech I'd like to add If your spindle looks like the one in the video it'd be a good idea to go ahead and change that out any gouging at all is grounds for replacement especially if you remove the inner seal that keeps the grease from washing out I do not advise spraying any paint into the drum itself If your removing the shoe assy go ahead and spray it all down with brake clean and put a temp grease on the shoe contact points on the back plate to keep everything from seizing, also if your in there anyway and you got an extra 35-45$ laying around might as well do the shoes as well as they look fairly worn in the video Torque everything to spec especially the spindle nut, if its not torqued properly the bearing will fail prematurely, also the Ford service manual states to replace the spindle nuts so don't reuse them they are to be tossed out after loosening if you reuse them they may back off and loosen or if your lucky enough to get it back on without them loosening there's a pretty good chance they won't seat properly so even if you do tighten everything and get it back together your likely gonna have to replace the bearing again in the near future
I agree, mostly. However, i think the spindle is fine, as the gouging is close to the front. If was there any seals seat, I'd say differently... The only reason the "Book" says to just replace is to protect the author.. and to void confusion by would-be lazy techs... As for the shoes.. that's a Meh... I agree they -Should- be replaced, but, they aren't flakey, uneven, nor too close to the metal, and doesn't appear to be separating. That's a Customer Decision, in otherwords. Everything else, I agree with, no disagreements. One-Way lock or Nylon Nuts should always be replaced once backed out from their natural rest.
I have a Mobile Small Engine Repair Service and I take pictures a lot and refer back to them a lot ! I like send them to my customers to show my progress and info about the problem. And you tube has bailed us out with tons of how to videos !
I can see what causes the bearings to fail, they're to close together. That's a design issue. I watched this because a friend has told me about a "squeaking" issue and thinks it's the bearings. Could be if he hadn't already replaced the bearing(s). Good helpful video.
Glad you didn't have to replace the spindle. Recently replaced the rear shoes on mine and besides the drums sticking a little they came off relatively ok. Thanks
nice video, i have decide to start doing repairs to my car now, i use to do it my self, now i will go back to it, last week i went to see how much it would cost me for a timing belt to be put on, they want £ 230 + v a t, mine car is a 1999 ford focus 1.8 l x. and i said to my self, their taken the piss, my car has 2 belts, so i will do them my self now, and i will be saving about £ 190. pounds, only have to buy some more tools, but it will be worth it. colin uk.
Hi thanks I enjoyed your video , I have a 2005 fiesta mk6 , which is the same as your focus , I've never done a wheelbearing by myself , thanks again from Tony McCarthy from bedfordshire England 😊👍
mine almost fell out by itself... time for replacement one think? and thanks for the vid. was actually bit hard to find this exact kind of change (got a ford KA) this vid is highly underrated
It's easy to take the spindle assembly off. 4x 13mm headed bolts using normal socket and 10" extension bar. Speed sensor needs to be removed 1x 8mm socket with small extension bar. Once the spindle assembly is off you can remove the old race much more easily by putting it in a vice. No need to take brake shoe assembly off.
Good video. I suggest if you do not have access to a press it is well with the extra money to buy a new drum with the bearing already pressed in. No frustration or chance of damaging bearing trying to pound it in.
@17:51 he shows the inner seal but his drum is missing the mating 'seal carrier' that mates and seals to this part. It is a small steel ring with a raised lip that would be pressed into the inner hub of the drum after the bearing and snap ring are installed
once again, I like your video!!! il tell ya, About 2 years ago, I bought a 03 focus se,dohc zetec vin 3. I think I paid to much but, in ways it has been the best & worse car ever! it has needed every single part replaced but, that is due to the previous owner not doing maintenance! now it has about 210k & I replaced the main & rod bearings due to the rod bearings having excessive wear. so, its needed every part replaced but, it keeps on going!!! I have done more work on this car then any other vehicle I have ever owned! plus I did a lot of upgrading!
Thank you for the video bro. Very thorough and informative. I think that the dust covers I failed to put back when doing the rear brakes may have caused the bearings on my focus to get worse. Thank you for sharing!
Not putting the dust covers back on, was probably not much of a factor in your wheel bearing failure. it's a very common issue on the Ford Focus, those bearings simply have a short lifespan.
Those hub/drum assemblies are pressed on to the spindle, and into the hub. the reason they sell that spindle is, because at factory the bearing is pressed on to the spindle. and the whole assembly is bolted on to the vehicle. and on the backside of the hub there's a tone ring for the ABS. and when the bearing fails it will sometimes damage the tone ring. and then you will have to replace it or your ABS light will come on.
@@FixingWithPassion Yeah the tone ring has a magnet on it. and of course you know how brittle magnets are? when the wheel bearing fails the hub wobbles around. and the tone ring hits the backing plate and breaks the magnet off the metal part. if you haven't replaced the tone ring yet? make sure to use a piece of two by four. and evenly drive the new tone ring on to the hub. and make sure not to crack the magnet.
LOL....Nice...I went to Michigan last summer. Wow I could not believe all the pot holes up there. West Virginia has its shair....I thought our roads were bad....lol
I am pretty sure there is an internal sleeve that is supposed to go in the hub from the back side after installing the retaining clip. It is what rides the the rubber dust seal you pointed out.
@@FixingWithPassion www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/brakebest-select-drum-rotor-hub-2924/brake-systems-16456/brake-drums-rotors-16509/brake-drum-11270/4b5c83cb9113/brakebest-select-brake-drum/9763dgs/2545680 Best image I can find.
I had the rear wheel bearing go out on my Focus while on vacation in California. I had a tow truck haul me up to the nearest motel. After the tow truck unloaded me I was backing the car into a parking space and the wheel literally fell off. Fortunately there was no damage as I was barely moving. If that wheel would have come off while going down the interstate that truly would have been worst case scenario. The next morning I called the auto parts store and ordered a new drum with the bearing already installed, and a breaker bar with a socket. They delivered it and within a couple hours I was back on the road.
The video is full of errors. He destroyed his water seal and doesn’t even have the correct metal ring on the drum side for the seal to function. There about 10 significant errors in this video, do not follow what he does here. Find another video or get a service manual.
Good job for showing how to press bearing in and out. You need to keep stuff clean, grass and old grease is not good for bearing. I can not believe you didn't wipe snap ring down and not notice the grass and dirt on the nut. REPLACE NUT EVERY TIME IT'S REMOVED, it is a one time use nylock nut.
2:20 I have some plastic lip on the abk at the back and i use the screw driver i will break the plastic. is there another way to pull of the hub? its stuck good.
I bought new nuts right from Ford. NOT cheap. But those special nuts are not reusable according to Ford. Anyway the instructions that came in the packages said something like 45 ft lbs first. Then to torque to 91 ft lbs while spinning the hub. Then to turn the nut another 60 degrees (1/6 turn). That second tightening amount is likely about the same as the 173 ft lbs that the aftermarket instructions quote.
My question @NathanRohrbough, is in 12:04 looks like part of the spindle seal, when you showed the spindle earlier it looked like it had a seal on the bottom of it.. do i need that? It looks like prnt.sc/ubmwp1
Nice floor jack. It is your great-grandfather's? ;- I like that you painted one side like you did. This can definitely ease in reassembling it correctly.
Hello, great video! Couple questions. Is a 2005 and a 2007 the same procedure? Also, There is a semi-loud humming noise coming from my rear passenger side tire. Does that sound like a bearing? Thanks for your time.
The spindle nut is supposed to be torqued in increments to 173 ft lbs while rotating the drum counterclockwise at least 10 revolutions at each step. If you don't do it that way the bearing will fail quickly...
I just used this vid and it had the keys I needed to Make it a fairly quick job. Three points of information. I just installed one in my 2003 focus in 2 hours taking my time using this approach. 1) For under 90 USD, NAPA makes a rear wheel bearing assy that is a new drum with pressed in bearing installed. Brg alone is 40 USD After cleaning the spindle, it took less than 45 minutes to get the new drum / brg installed, torqued to OEM specs not used here, the wheel back on with lugs torqued, off the jacks and road test. 2) Chiltons, the ford service manual, nor the Replacement part manufacturer, do not prescribe use of moon grease cap over spindle end. It is not used on 2003 3) The spindle nut requires a 30mm deep well socket as stated here. I didn't have one but NAPA had an impact ddriver socker with 1/2 drive for 13 USD. You'll need it to get it off and torque it right Bearing growl vanished. Well spent 90 bucks
Fist off, thanks for this great vid where you can actually See that damn bearing in hand! 3 vital points that have probably been mentioned to death... torquing that nut to 90ftlbs is bad news becuz its gonna come loose guarenteed, youve heard the procedure of slowly bringing it up to 173ftlbs while rotating the drum counterclockwise as you tighten...secondly, that bearing has a seal on One side and that side Should be on the Inside of the hub..purpose is to keep the bearing grease from leaking out into the brake drum area..Now really, these bearings should have a seal on Both sides becuz, I;ll tell ya this from having to fix these many times: its the Outside part of the race that goes bad and this is usually cuz it Doesnt have a rubber seal...the grease gets out and the outer part of the race runs dry... the inner side was ok on the bearings ive had to replace..this most recent time, ive added heavy duty grease to the outer bearing area and in the gap between the innet and outer races...it wont get into the brake area becuz the rubber seal is on the inner race on most hubs and keeps things safe...there is also a press in piece that goes on the inner part of hub over the race...not talking about the antilock magnetic ring..the peice im mean is a metal sleeve that matses against that rubber ring thats on the bottom end of the spindle..it keeps bearing grease from getting into shoe area
What size socket did you use to get the old bearing out of the hub? And are the 08's the same? Mine is an 08 SES sedan. Thank you very much for the video.
I watched this in preparation for a rear bearing change on my brother's Focus. This was really useful - hopefully, the UK version of the Focus is the same. Thanks for the insight.
Thank you for making this video. 7 years later you are still helping someone learn how to change her rear wheel bearing on a 2011 Ford Focus!
Nice!!
Not to be a hater, a couple of points here:
1. there IS a ratchet type adjuster on the spreader bar (just under the wheel cylinder)
2.The park brake cable is likely seized in the apply position (notice how far forward the lever is and compressed the return spring is)
3. The innermost seal is shot, and should be replaced
4. The axle nut should be replaced with a new one. (I admit, I have reused them with locktite)
5. As you are torquing the nut in three steps, the drum should be turned CCW 10 times between each step to seat the bearings.
6. Final torque should be 173 ft/lbs. not 90.
This person is correct on the whole procedure with the exception of one little detail. and that is there's a tone ring on the backside of the hub/drum assembly. that is incorporated with the seal. and sometimes they are damaged when the wheel bearing fails. and will have to be replaced or the check ABS light will come on.
Thumbs up for showing parts you even struggled with. These videos be making it look way to easy but when you attempt it yourself it’s a different story
To many tubers leave out the hard stuff. I'm the real deal showing how its really done and the sweat to boot
@@FixingWithPassion my daughter's focus has been pedel thumping sometimes . Is that a brake drum or something else?
@@FixingWithPassion even the real deal would watch this guy's videos about 2 cycle carbs ect. He has an accent maybe England but man you'll learn something from each of his detailed illustrations each time .
The spray paint idea is freaking genius.
@Waylon Tristian both of these accounts are fake. "InstaPortal" is a scam website that steals people's money once they get their credit card number on their fake website.
Thanks man, I can't afford a mechanic and ur video saved the day... u r a super hero. God bless u 🙏 Peace.
Torque spec: 174 ft-lb while turning drum counterclockwise at least 10 turns while tightening. Also, on ABS equipped cars, the magnetic side of the bearing shield goes towards the speed sensor.
Thanks for this! A lot of these commercial videos from garages and stuff, the video is 8 minutes long and they make it seem like that's all it takes. I've done enough mechanical work to know it's never that easy! Nice to see a realistic video with realistic expectations! Good job buddy 👌🏻
I spend 40 minutes to an hour to find the tool that I want that is next to me.
@@fardmaster123 Often how it goes 🤣 Wasn't a 10mm socket was it?
Thanks for your service. It's 3:18am and here I am.
O my Nice!!
Two notes: 1) that axle nut should be tourqued to 173 lbs 2) there IS an adjustment for the brake shoes, to let them contract, or push them out. I can even see it in your shot, it's on the right side of the upper sprinkler bracket, just underneath the spring bracket, you'll see two little notched "gears". Stick a flathead screwdriver in between them and ratchet to open them. To close them, put the flathead to the right of the right gear and pry back. :) Hope that helps, great video!
Great! Thanks!!
If you want to attempt installing the bearing without a press, put the bearing in the freezer overnight and put the hub in a 250F oven for and hour or so. Makes a HUGE difference. Sometimes they almost slide right in with a block of wood.
at 21:24 you said," there was no adjustment for these shoes ".....correction ....take a screw driver and re-adjust the self adjuster ( located at the 1oclock position ),(allowing the brake shoe to be squeezed in all the way before reinstalling the drum ,it will make the drum slide right on ...that being said... when your done putting tire back on and the vehicle is on the ground, place car in reverse and pull up on emergency brake handle a few times and it will automatically reset the shoes where they need to be .... no disrespect intended ...just a little info !! good video ,very helpful for those thats never completed this task !! thanks for the video !!
Why is every one forgetting about the seal
TIP, put the brake drum in a hot oven for 15 minutes and you can even put the bearing in the freezer and in most cases the new bearing will drop straight in :+)
Yea nice
Great idea. Except I don't have an oven. Trying it on top of a wood stove. Wish me luck. Lol
NOT TOO SHABBY!!!!TOTALLY HELPFUL. THE PAINTING OF THE SHOE PARTS IS INGENIOUS!!!!
;D
I appreciate you taking time to make this sir. I'm having hub problems and this looks like just what I needed!
Nice!
I replaced a bearing a few months ago and had the same problem with the race not coming off. I'm an inexperienced wrencher but on my own I figured out to do basically what you suggested. I did end up grinding the old one off. Unfortunately I damaged the spindle with the grinder but was able to sand it smooth enough to get the bearing back over it (using some force). I suspect it might not last long though.
It's great to see a video of the job not going as expected - because we all know no job ever gets done without something unexpected happening.
Good deal!~ Nice to hear story's like this. Saving money and time is always great!~
Thank you for your video. Its going to help me replace mine. Love my little ZX5. Very educational. Didn't miss a step. I highly appreciate the struggle when pulling the "racer" off. Many don't film their struggles. Now I know what the job really consists of when replacing mine. This helps many people. Thank you again.
Very informative, however there's a few things as an ASE tech I'd like to add
If your spindle looks like the one in the video it'd be a good idea to go ahead and change that out any gouging at all is grounds for replacement especially if you remove the inner seal that keeps the grease from washing out
I do not advise spraying any paint into the drum itself
If your removing the shoe assy go ahead and spray it all down with brake clean and put a temp grease on the shoe contact points on the back plate to keep everything from seizing, also if your in there anyway and you got an extra 35-45$ laying around might as well do the shoes as well as they look fairly worn in the video
Torque everything to spec especially the spindle nut, if its not torqued properly the bearing will fail prematurely, also the Ford service manual states to replace the spindle nuts so don't reuse them they are to be tossed out after loosening if you reuse them they may back off and loosen or if your lucky enough to get it back on without them loosening there's a pretty good chance they won't seat properly so even if you do tighten everything and get it back together your likely gonna have to replace the bearing again in the near future
I agree, mostly. However, i think the spindle is fine, as the gouging is close to the front. If was there any seals seat, I'd say differently...
The only reason the "Book" says to just replace is to protect the author.. and to void confusion by would-be lazy techs...
As for the shoes.. that's a Meh...
I agree they -Should- be replaced, but, they aren't flakey, uneven, nor too close to the metal, and doesn't appear to be separating.
That's a Customer Decision, in otherwords.
Everything else, I agree with, no disagreements. One-Way lock or Nylon Nuts should always be replaced once backed out from their natural rest.
I have a Mobile Small Engine Repair Service and I take pictures a lot and refer back to them a lot ! I like send them to my customers to show my progress and info about the problem.
And you tube has bailed us out with tons of how to videos !
Word!
Thank you for sharing this! It was very easy to understand, here's hoping my hubby can get the bearing fixed in my '07 Focus now.
Cool@!!
Did he do it?
@@fardmaster123 He did! She's still running like a champ @ 171k.
I can see what causes the bearings to fail, they're to close together. That's a design issue. I watched this because a friend has told me about a "squeaking" issue and thinks it's the bearings. Could be if he hadn't already replaced the bearing(s). Good helpful video.
The only helpful video on this I've found. Thanks a lot!
Great video it helped out a lot thanks
Glad you didn't have to replace the spindle. Recently replaced the rear shoes on mine and besides the drums sticking a little they came off relatively ok. Thanks
Me too! Glad you fixed it...Thanks!
This help a lot. Thanks for putting the video together.
Great video. Excellent camera shots. I appreaciate you posting this.
Nice!~
Great video my whole wheel broke off from the car now time to have fun to try and get the rest off wish me luck
Great video. Good details. I enjoyed watching. I have a bearing in one of the back wheels in my focus are starting to get noicy
Nice!!
nice video, i have decide to start doing repairs to my car now, i use to do it my self, now i will go back to it, last week i went to see how much it would cost me for a timing belt to be put on, they want £ 230 + v a t, mine car is a 1999 ford focus 1.8 l x. and i said to my self, their taken the piss, my car has 2 belts, so i will do them my self now, and i will be saving about £ 190. pounds, only have to buy some more tools, but it will be worth it. colin uk.
Good Video, this convinced me to buy a small press for my shop.
You wont regret it! Thing is, don't stay to long at harbor freight, you leave broke with a ton of tools...;)
Precise educational video. Cool antique floor jack.
Thanks!
Also applies for 2008-2011 models as well. Mechanically they were almost identical to the First Gen Focus.
Great to know!!
Excellent video Nathan. Very informative and helpful
:)
Hi thanks I enjoyed your video , I have a 2005 fiesta mk6 , which is the same as your focus , I've never done a wheelbearing by myself , thanks again from Tony McCarthy from bedfordshire England 😊👍
I need a time of how long it takes to change back wheel bearings on a Ford focus 2007
Always helps when you take the emergency brake off!
Great video!!! So full of insights! Thanks!!!
mine almost fell out by itself... time for replacement one think?
and thanks for the vid. was actually bit hard to find this exact kind of change (got a ford KA)
this vid is highly underrated
Mine fell off this morning time to replace
thank you so much, this video saved me so much frustration!
It's easy to take the spindle assembly off. 4x 13mm headed bolts using normal socket and 10" extension bar. Speed sensor needs to be removed 1x 8mm socket with small extension bar.
Once the spindle assembly is off you can remove the old race much more easily by putting it in a vice. No need to take brake shoe assembly off.
I need a lift like samcrac
Good video. I suggest if you do not have access to a press it is well with the extra money to buy a new drum with the bearing already pressed in. No frustration or chance of damaging bearing trying to pound it in.
The bearings that come in the drums are junk
dudes a menace with that prydriver
@17:51 he shows the inner seal but his drum is missing the mating 'seal carrier' that mates and seals to this part. It is a small steel ring with a raised lip that
would be pressed into the inner hub of the drum after the bearing and snap ring are installed
One side has a black “ring” the other side is all silver.
Which way do you put the bearing in?
I've got the same problem on a 01 ford focus. Thanks for the video.
Nice!
once again, I like your video!!! il tell ya, About 2 years ago, I bought a 03 focus se,dohc zetec vin 3. I think I paid to much but, in ways it has been the best & worse car ever! it has needed every single part replaced but, that is due to the previous owner not doing maintenance! now it has about 210k & I replaced the main & rod bearings due to the rod bearings having excessive wear. so, its needed every part replaced but, it keeps on going!!! I have done more work on this car then any other vehicle I have ever owned! plus I did a lot of upgrading!
Nice to see it still going!
Great video! My car did the exact same thing! The race stuck to my spindle! But I wasn't as well spoken as you I swore a lot! Great video
Yea, lots of p's and q's ...it will come around. lol
Thank you for the video bro. Very thorough and informative. I think that the dust covers I failed to put back when doing the rear brakes may have caused the bearings on my focus to get worse. Thank you for sharing!
Happy fixing!
Not putting the dust covers back on, was probably not much of a factor in your wheel bearing failure. it's a very common issue on the Ford Focus, those bearings simply have a short lifespan.
Those hub/drum assemblies are pressed on to the spindle, and into the hub. the reason they sell that spindle is, because at factory the bearing is pressed on to the spindle. and the whole assembly is bolted on to the vehicle. and on the backside of the hub there's a tone ring for the ABS. and when the bearing fails it will sometimes damage the tone ring. and then you will have to replace it or your ABS light will come on.
Yep my Subaru is the same way. Bad ABS sensor damaged because of a bad wheel bearing. Its actually cut petty good (ABS light on now) ugh!
@@FixingWithPassion Yeah the tone ring has a magnet on it. and of course you know how brittle magnets are? when the wheel bearing fails the hub wobbles around. and the tone ring hits the backing plate and breaks the magnet off the metal part. if you haven't replaced the tone ring yet? make sure to use a piece of two by four. and evenly drive the new tone ring on to the hub. and make sure not to crack the magnet.
thank you I really appreciate the video
thank you I really appreciate
You rock! Now I just need a press... Too many potholes up here in Michigan have destroyed my bearings..
LOL....Nice...I went to Michigan last summer. Wow I could not believe all the pot holes up there. West Virginia has its shair....I thought our roads were bad....lol
Chris Tallant Haha come to Canada! U want to see pot holes!
I am pretty sure there is an internal sleeve that is supposed to go in the hub from the back side after installing the retaining clip. It is what rides the the rubber dust seal you pointed out.
Hummmmmmm.........
@@FixingWithPassion
www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/brakebest-select-drum-rotor-hub-2924/brake-systems-16456/brake-drums-rotors-16509/brake-drum-11270/4b5c83cb9113/brakebest-select-brake-drum/9763dgs/2545680
Best image I can find.
Well, I’m going to try it.
big copper hammer always works for me on brake drums
Nice!
Can you share the size or dimension details of the bearing you changed please.?
I had the rear wheel bearing go out on my Focus while on vacation in California. I had a tow truck haul me up to the nearest motel. After the tow truck unloaded me I was backing the car into a parking space and the wheel literally fell off. Fortunately there was no damage as I was barely moving. If that wheel would have come off while going down the interstate that truly would have been worst case scenario. The next morning I called the auto parts store and ordered a new drum with the bearing already installed, and a breaker bar with a socket. They delivered it and within a couple hours I was back on the road.
Thats wild thats good nothing happened and it was in a contained area.. what were your symptoms prior to the tire falling off?
Fantastic video, very helpful as I’m about to tackle this very fix. Thank you so much
The video is full of errors. He destroyed his water seal and doesn’t even have the correct metal ring on the drum side for the seal to function. There about 10 significant errors in this video, do not follow what he does here. Find another video or get a service manual.
@@lookoutforchris I came here to say the exact same thing. 3 minutes in I had to stop the video and head straight to the comments
Great job!
Just did this last night, I took the spindle off and put it in a vice and used a cold chisel. Popped right off.
Nice:D
My 2005 Ford Focus was stolen Nov 2020 and not found. Miss that reliable vehicle :(
His China vise grips are priceless!!
Good job for showing how to press bearing in and out. You need to keep stuff clean, grass and old grease is not good for bearing. I can not believe you didn't wipe snap ring down and not notice the grass and dirt on the nut. REPLACE NUT EVERY TIME IT'S REMOVED, it is a one time use nylock nut.
Yea.
Does the ford have the wire abs ??is it a regular bearing???
Good job! Very well detailed right down to the rubber seal on the spindle.. Thumbs up!
Thanks man!
Is the rubber seal sold separate or is that part of the assembly
Very good video, I was going to just buy the whole assembly because it did not look like it would come out,
but definitely going to try this first.
Yea that spindle on on there with tight blots. I hope to never have to take one off.
Excellent video, thank you.
Thank you, that was really helpful!
;D
Those brake shoes are adjustable just have to release the ratchet wheel it’s on the bar that goes across the top under the wheel cylinder
Thanks!
Would this be the same process for a 2009 Ford Focus?
Close to it.
Very helpful thank you for your help
Great video Nathan! Watched the entire video now I'm headed outside to get it done, I'll keep you posted lol.
You can do it!~~ Keep us updated!~
Awesome. Appreciate the video. Thanks!
Very helpful
Nice!
2:20 I have some plastic lip on the abk at the back and i use the screw driver i will break the plastic. is there another way to pull of the hub? its stuck good.
abk ?
I bought new nuts right from Ford. NOT cheap. But those special nuts are not reusable according to Ford. Anyway the instructions that came in the packages said something like 45 ft lbs first. Then to torque to 91 ft lbs while spinning the hub. Then to turn the nut another 60 degrees (1/6 turn). That second tightening amount is likely about the same as the 173 ft lbs that the aftermarket instructions quote.
Thank you share clip
I like!
Best video in this matter Ford Focus Rear brake. Like!
Thanks!
Thanks!
Very comprehensive, thanks!
;)
Nice Jack
Nice!
Thank u.for the video.big help
;D
My question @NathanRohrbough, is in 12:04 looks like part of the spindle seal, when you showed the spindle earlier it looked like it had a seal on the bottom of it.. do i need that? It looks like prnt.sc/ubmwp1
I would use it. The bearing is sealed but I guess the extra seal just keeps more dirt out.
@@FixingWithPassion I found out its a water seal and there's a water seal container..
Nice floor jack. It is your great-grandfather's?
;-
I like that you painted one side like you did. This can definitely ease in reassembling it correctly.
Nice job! It helped me.. Thanks..
And the adjustement of the shoes is tight and the emergency brake cables are done. Springs are finished.
Great videos. Subbed ! 👍🏻
COOL!~!~!
:)
Hello, great video! Couple questions. Is a 2005 and a 2007 the same procedure? Also, There is a semi-loud humming noise coming from my rear passenger side tire. Does that sound like a bearing? Thanks for your time.
Possible!
@@FixingWithPassion thanks
great video thankyou
The spindle nut is supposed to be torqued in increments to 173 ft lbs while rotating the drum counterclockwise at least 10 revolutions at each step. If you don't do it that way the bearing will fail quickly...
Good job great vid.
Glad you enjoyed it
I just used this vid and it had the keys I needed to
Make it a fairly quick job.
Three points of information. I just installed one in my 2003 focus in 2 hours taking my time using this approach.
1) For under 90 USD, NAPA makes a rear wheel bearing assy that is a new drum with pressed in bearing installed. Brg alone is 40 USD After cleaning the spindle, it took less than 45 minutes to get the new drum / brg installed, torqued to OEM specs not used here, the wheel back on with lugs torqued, off the jacks and road test.
2) Chiltons, the ford service manual, nor the Replacement part manufacturer, do not prescribe use of moon grease cap over spindle end. It is not used on 2003
3) The spindle nut requires a 30mm deep well socket as stated here. I didn't have one but NAPA had an impact ddriver socker with 1/2 drive for 13 USD. You'll need it to get it off and torque it right
Bearing growl vanished. Well spent 90 bucks
Fist off, thanks for this great vid where you can actually See that damn bearing in hand! 3 vital points that have probably been mentioned to death... torquing that nut to 90ftlbs is bad news becuz its gonna come loose guarenteed, youve heard the procedure of slowly bringing it up to 173ftlbs while rotating the drum counterclockwise as you tighten...secondly, that bearing has a seal on One side and that side Should be on the Inside of the hub..purpose is to keep the bearing grease from leaking out into the brake drum area..Now really, these bearings should have a seal on Both sides becuz, I;ll tell ya this from having to fix these many times: its the Outside part of the race that goes bad and this is usually cuz it Doesnt have a rubber seal...the grease gets out and the outer part of the race runs dry... the inner side was ok on the bearings ive had to replace..this most recent time, ive added heavy duty grease to the outer bearing area and in the gap between the innet and outer races...it wont get into the brake area becuz the rubber seal is on the inner race on most hubs and keeps things safe...there is also a press in piece that goes on the inner part of hub over the race...not talking about the antilock magnetic ring..the peice im mean is a metal sleeve that matses against that rubber ring thats on the bottom end of the spindle..it keeps bearing grease from getting into shoe area
Yea then engineers lol
Ah, the old piece of grass on the wheel nut trick! Lol.
Why no mention of the ABS Ring?
Its not a issue.
No grease in yhat bearing?
Not muck probably. ..
Helped me out thank u !
the rubber on spindle is a water seal need new one pressed on
O my!
You do not put grease on the spindle?
What size socket did you use to get the old bearing out of the hub? And are the 08's the same? Mine is an 08 SES sedan.
Thank you very much for the video.
Is the bearing the same size as in the hub on disk brake rears? Thanks for the great video!
good quality video and well explained. thanks
Thanks man! Ton's of video coming soon!
I watched this in preparation for a rear bearing change on my brother's Focus. This was really useful - hopefully, the UK version of the Focus is the same. Thanks for the insight.
Thanks! Happy Fixing!
I'm sorry I don't agree with your professional understanding of how that job should be done correctly.
Should the bearings be packed with grease before putting them on the drum?
Pre-packed at factory when new.