These machines were built like a tank.. Restored my ol ladys machine back to life.. One point, after many years of service the commutator on the armature was deeply scored/tarnished and required refacing before fitting new brushes (lots of examples of how to do this on basic motors on youtube already)
How did you go about this? There are videos showing the use of an electric drill and fine sandpaper, but I've read other comments saying not to use any form of sandpaper in any circumstances. The copper segments need to be really smooth so that they don't grind down the carbon brushes.
@@benjamindaniel8467 A good example (works fine). Dont use sandpaper or oil on the brushes themselves as this will potentially contaminate them and sand radially: ruclips.net/video/yV4B-bN814g/видео.html
@@bigjobs7781 thank you for the link. I've watched a number of videos like this before; very few of them show the motor running afterwards! My main concern is not to cause any unnecessary damage, and would probably try and avoid sandpaper if the com just needs a clean. The A701 armatures have mica between the copper segments.
@@benjamindaniel8467 No Probs mate, like the example i pasted my commutator was in about the same condition with fairly deep scoring. There is plenty of meat on the raised copper contacts before you hit the insulating material. That said the version i have is 240V so the design may vary a little. Just avoid the resin toward the inner part of the armature where it interfaces to the commutator. I have used this method to refurbish many worn motors over the years. If your current brushes are not worn out too much then maybe it is un-necessary as they have already seated. The best time to reface is if you are installing a new set of brushes and need an even mating surface.
1. I removed the ring but mine didnt have a shaft pin? Also i can't pull off the plastic cone thing (the pulley? Is it?) it wont budge. 2. Please explain what screw in the bottom fan? Any help would be appreciated. I have just procured this machine and it was so full of flour and cake inside when i opened it i regretted not buying a new one but the good ole internet has convinced me to refurbish it as i can possibly get another many more years out of it. And i do so like being the owner of a vintage working kenwood...
Regarding the clunking noise at low speeds mentioned on another of your excellent sites, I can confirm one contributors fix of 'Undoing the grub screw holding the fan on the drive shaft and moving the fan to take out the up and down play.' I have done this and it works. Running like a Rolls Royce now. Mind you, moving the grub screw was a bit of a bugger!
They should do if maintained properly. That was when we had proper quality engineering. Now everything new seems to wear out or break after about 5 years.
To be honest, I don't know, but I expect they are porous but not 'oil retaining', thus the oil pads. Usually, oil retaining bearings do not have oil pads surrounding the bearing.
thanks for the vids, really helpful, I have just acquired my first a701a £20 bargain (or so i thought) but alas the mincer and shredders seem to be running in reverse, could this machine have been wired up wrong? it looks like the big metal capacitor has been replaced by two film type caps, or do you know of any other reason why it might be running backwards?
Do you know where I can get an expolded diagram of the A901 motor? I dismantled one taking photo's along the way but had three shims drop out, 2 small ones and 1 larger one and no idea which order they went in. Didn't think it would be so impossible to find service manuals with component diagrams.
Very interesting video, thank you. Seeing the centrifuge in operation was particularly useful. Just acquired one (for free) myself. The 'stiff' plastic collar from the motor gear appears to have been destroyed during use. In your opinion, are there any negative effects from it not being present?
Thanks for the video - I received a 2nd hand one in the post but a lot of oil had escaped and now if I use it, it makes a grinding sound and begins to smoke. Is full disassembly the only way to lubricate or can I do it without removing the motor do you think?
when you say washer between fan and motor,I have washers on the armature but do you mean a the fan that has the grub screw there could be a washer just under that fan
Er, can't remember and away for new year. Go to Kenny's site and download the' A701 A701A Service Manual' there are exploded diagrams of the motor in there, its page 20 and the washer is part 161. Here is the link… reocarchive.byethost31.com/kenwood/recipe.html
I didn't marked the position of my field coil before removing. It all came together smoothly. But now, the motor is going backwards! It that because the field coil is 180 degree out?
I have a Kenwood A901 where the small pulley gear melts and then runs crooked. It has happened twice now. It seems the top motor bearing and shaft get very hot. I have stripped the motor and oiled the bushes and felt. The motor turns more freely now and the bushes seem fine but the shaft and bushes are still getting warm. Maybe not hot. The motor and speed control run smoothly. Any ideas?
There should be a small gap between the base and the table, check the rubber feet have not perished. If no gap, then it going to get very hot as not able to draw cooling air in for the motor.
I've just bought two A701a mixers, one working and the other for spares or repair, the spares one has an on off switch that won't switch the mixer off, it just runs on full speed. How would I go about removing the switch?
1:22 It's a bit of a pain, but best way is to remove the motor, then you can check the switch for off/on, and also the mechanics for the speed control at 2:56.
@@xenon53827 got the motor out and the problem was a broken speed controller not engaging with the on off knob. just ordered the part and decided to clean and lubricate the motor bearings and found a partially destroyed top bearing, it looks like old fractures. Is there anywhere I can get a new bearing pressed in or is it a case of buying another secondhand motor?
@@fdghn4567 Try a place called 'Lana's kenwood spares' , especially the following link... lanas-kenwood-spares.co.uk/product-category/kenwood/701702703717-series/gearbox-spares-701702703-series/
@@xenon53827 Forgive me if I appear a bit thick but are the older capacitors the cylinders? the early a701a I have has two and the later one only has one.
@@fdghn4567 at 2:49 the silver can (with plessey written on it in this case) is the capacitor. The big resistor usually looks different and more ceramic.
Could you tell me which brand is the oil? A lot of people use Labelle products for their trains and probably Labelle 107 or 108 could be used for my Kenwood but I'm not sure.
My Kenwood 701A is jerking badly at slow speed. Search online and the Kenwood chef comes up a few times. Seems like a common problem but I don't see a solution. I don't think the brushes are the problem. Mine are 14mm and the low limit is 9.5 mm. Any ideas?
OK, I have found the problem on my 701A mixer. Each of the rotor segments should have 2 leads. One of mine is broken. This means that the power is being regularly interrupted. The wire is too thin and brittle for me to reconnect so for now, I'll have to just live with it. I guess it could be rewound but it looks beyond my knowledge base.
we have one of the seventies (I think model 717), it has not been used for at least 15 years. I cleaned it and it works fine, but the motor starts smelling once in use --> what could be done? Would it still be safe to use? Can the motor be changed?
Check the rubber feet haven't disintegrated. there should be a gap between the mixer base and the table otherwise it cannot draw air up and the motor will get hot. That may be the problem.
Thank you for making these videos about the Kenwood Chef A701A, they’ve helped me a lot in servicing the motor and gearbox. On the speed adjustment section of the service manual (page 6) it mentions counting the revolutions of the planet hub on minimum speed. I am assuming they mean as close to zero on the speed control knob as possible to be the minimum. Is that correct? How many revolutions on minimum does Kenny get?
minimum is as slow as the knob will go. Not too hard to adjust, need to remove motor cover underneath and tighten down the two nuts a little until correct. Go to 2:14, you can see the screws and I explain about the speed. They usually need slowing down after a few years of service.
Thanks for this video. Just what I needed for my A901. The motor is much the same as the A701 I suppose? I bought it in 1970 I think, and it's never been serviced. One of the few things I brought to Thailand thirty years ago. One minor criticism. You tend to go a bit too fast for me. My old 83 year old grey matter needs a little more time to catch up. Thanks again.
My Kenwood Major sounds rough. Is your A701A nearly the same as mine which is an A707A? I want to oil it inside but am a bit worried about taking it apart!
I was apprehensive the first time, but just watch the vid a few times, remeber to mark the motor coil housing before taking it off and all should be well.
Hi Scaley, Love your videos they are a god send! mine stopped working when I try to turn it on, there was resistance from off to low then no resistance. when I started disassembling something dropped around the switch and thanks to this video it's the button contact in the centrifugal speed control. do you know how to replace it as I haven't been able to find any instructions? I do have another "dead" one I was disassembling for spares. Also is there meant to be some sort of "gasket" under the high speed plate? one came mine but don't see one in your videos? Take care and stay safe, Mike
Hi Mike, I don't remember Kenny having a gasket. If your has one then I should probably check my spare motor. Sorry, no idea how to replace the button, but I know a guy that does. Follow the link below to Kenny's site and look for 'Kenmix Engineering' on the links page. The guy there is extremely knowledgeable as he services Kenwoods for a living. reocarchive.byethost31.com/kenwood/index.html
@@xenon53827 the "gasket" feels like old baking paper and my other machine doesn't have it either so something the previous family did. The broken part turns out to be the brass alloy "dumbell" in the switch so an easier fix thankfully. I have visited your site and the links thank you again.
Damn the shaft pin was really stuck on there, I was worrying I'd bend the motor shaft while hammering it out, luckily I did not (I hope). Also for some reason the plastic ring on the pulley had snapped in half, suspecting it was the cause if a horrible noice my mixer was making while testing. Doesn't seem like there's spares available but luckily I have a 3D printer so I'll be able to whip one up with that! After this it'll be hopefully run for at least another 40 years, even though I'll definitely be servicing it sooner, unlike the last owner(s).
I will add a link to the exploded diagrams for the A701A series, It's a pdf on Kenny's site. The motor is on page 20, link below The washers are listed along with the size of each one, so that should help. reocarchive.byethost31.com/kenwood/A701%20A701A%20service%20manual.pdf
Thank god you put this video on,I just bought one of these kenwoodchefs,s,sold as spares or repairs, I stripped it down and thought thers risistor missing and heat sink,after looking at some other vids, But when I seen your vid,Ha Ha" theres nothing missing they made different types for same modle,but I realised one of the bushes had the top copper disc broken away from the copper brush wire, So I soldered it back on and the motor worked,Don`t know why as Ime no electrician, But could you let me know if the black long thing is a heat sink and silver is reistor or capacitor and there is a nother thing between wire covered in a sleeve,Could you put me right please on what each item is,just in case I need to replace,Owe Yes I notice there is a copper looking thing with a lip but there is nothing inside of it,on mine,I don`t know what that is eigther,I wish you would of shown what all the electrical items were,but can`t have it all ,lol. Thank you again Brilliant filming thank you for taking the time to do this,
OK, the easiest is to give you a link to Kenny's site, download the 'A701 A701A Service Manual' and go to the diagram on page 20, just look up the numbers of the parts in the diagram to see what they are. Here is link… reocarchive.byethost31.com/kenwood/recipe.html
Hello! I was wondering if you could tell me if this knocking sound is excessive or normal operation: ruclips.net/video/T697F6zMbKE/видео.html Is it the motor bearings that need fixing, or the contact adjustment screws on the back? Any advice would be much appreciated!
I think it sounds okay. It has a different control module which uses a triac (unlike in this video) and they generally sound a bit clunky at low speed, especially without a load. Check there’s no up-down play in the armature; if there is you should be able to loosen the grub screw on the fan with an imperial Allen key (I forget the size) and use that to take up any slack.
I have a problem with my Kenwood Chef. The motor doesn't work properly. I've uploaded a video: ruclips.net/video/7T_i4Im5uM4/видео.html The speed control has some problem but I don't know how to fix it.
Dear Xenon, I'm trying to restore and old Kenwood Chef A701A from my grandma. It has the issue that it only runs at full speed, no matter what position the knob is. I have extracted the motor and run it on a bench. Mechanically everything works just fine, the contact bar moves up and down as I turn the knob. Could it be the resistor or the capacitor that are failing? The brushes are perfect 15 mm long. If you please give me some advice I will be really grateful.
Not sure about this, look up Mike at 'Kenmix Engineering' facebook.com/kenmixengineering/ He fixes these and should be able to give you some advice. My guess is that the contacts have stuck and are not opening as the gap widens.
@@xenon53827 Thanks for your answer. It was the capacitor! As it was in bad condition, it worked as a jumper, so the point contacts didn't have any effect and current flowed with no interruption. Is it normal that the resistor heats so much? I guess that's why the motor has a fan pointin towards it.
@@arguellonicolas check the rubber feet on the bottom of the mixer, they should leave a gap between the base and the table. This is needed as the motor sucks air up from underneath. Usually, you need to get new ones by now. Google 'kenwood chef restore' or 'kenmix engineering'. A set does not cost very much. The resistor does get hot.
These machines were built like a tank.. Restored my ol ladys machine back to life.. One point, after many years of service the commutator on the armature was deeply scored/tarnished and required refacing before fitting new brushes (lots of examples of how to do this on basic motors on youtube already)
How did you go about this? There are videos showing the use of an electric drill and fine sandpaper, but I've read other comments saying not to use any form of sandpaper in any circumstances. The copper segments need to be really smooth so that they don't grind down the carbon brushes.
@@benjamindaniel8467 A good example (works fine). Dont use sandpaper or oil on the brushes themselves as this will potentially contaminate them and sand radially: ruclips.net/video/yV4B-bN814g/видео.html
@@bigjobs7781 thank you for the link. I've watched a number of videos like this before; very few of them show the motor running afterwards! My main concern is not to cause any unnecessary damage, and would probably try and avoid sandpaper if the com just needs a clean. The A701 armatures have mica between the copper segments.
@@benjamindaniel8467 No Probs mate, like the example i pasted my commutator was in about the same condition with fairly deep scoring. There is plenty of meat on the raised copper contacts before you hit the insulating material. That said the version i have is 240V so the design may vary a little. Just avoid the resin toward the inner part of the armature where it interfaces to the commutator. I have used this method to refurbish many worn motors over the years. If your current brushes are not worn out too much then maybe it is un-necessary as they have already seated. The best time to reface is if you are installing a new set of brushes and need an even mating surface.
@@benjamindaniel8467 Our Christmas Pud was made with the refurbished Kenwood Chef so we truly tasted success.. :)
Thank you. Very useful to me. My a701a 1976 still working : )
1. I removed the ring but mine didnt have a shaft pin? Also i can't pull off the plastic cone thing (the pulley? Is it?) it wont budge.
2. Please explain what screw in the bottom fan?
Any help would be appreciated. I have just procured this machine and it was so full of flour and cake inside when i opened it i regretted not buying a new one but the good ole internet has convinced me to refurbish it as i can possibly get another many more years out of it.
And i do so like being the owner of a vintage working kenwood...
Regarding the clunking noise at low speeds mentioned on another of your excellent sites, I can confirm one contributors fix of 'Undoing the grub screw holding the fan on the drive shaft and moving the fan to take out the up and down play.' I have done this and it works. Running like a Rolls Royce now. Mind you, moving the grub screw was a bit of a bugger!
Can be a bit stiff, but then they have probably been there for over 50 years!
You're right. Mine was bought in the sixties and still going strong.
They should do if maintained properly. That was when we had proper quality engineering. Now everything new seems to wear out or break after about 5 years.
Thank you for your video. My son in law has asked me to service his Grans 701, and this is so informative.
Is the brass sleeve porous and does the oil soak through it
To be honest, I don't know, but I expect they are porous but not 'oil retaining', thus the oil pads. Usually, oil retaining bearings do not have oil pads surrounding the bearing.
Yes. It’s an Oilite bearing made of sintered bronze.
Thank you for your video. This helped me in refurbishing my A701A.
Where's the end-float screw I've just forgotten where it's hiding. I found it :)
Am I right that the motor runs clockwise? For some reason, mine runs counter-clockwise after reassambly!?
Hi thanks for posting I have the same model and my capacitor has failed it's 0.1 mfd , 1000 v can I use a lower voltage safety X2 cap?
My a701a makes no noise, capacitor seems ok, all wires connected. Can you please help?
thanks for the vids, really helpful, I have just acquired my first a701a £20 bargain (or so i thought) but alas the mincer and shredders seem to be running in reverse, could this machine have been wired up wrong? it looks like the big metal capacitor has been replaced by two film type caps, or do you know of any other reason why it might be running backwards?
Do you know where I can get an expolded diagram of the A901 motor? I dismantled one taking photo's along the way but had three shims drop out, 2 small ones and 1 larger one and no idea which order they went in. Didn't think it would be so impossible to find service manuals with component diagrams.
Very interesting video, thank you. Seeing the centrifuge in operation was particularly useful. Just acquired one (for free) myself. The 'stiff' plastic collar from the motor gear appears to have been destroyed during use. In your opinion, are there any negative effects from it not being present?
I have never run one without the collar, but I am guessing that it is just to centre up the motor.
Please can you fix my Kenwood A701A please
Thank you for help giving resurgent Wood to these Kenny's
Thanks for the video - I received a 2nd hand one in the post but a lot of oil had escaped and now if I use it, it makes a grinding sound and begins to smoke. Is full disassembly the only way to lubricate or can I do it without removing the motor do you think?
Is the Alan key at the bottom ‘imperial’ I have metric and none seem to fit.
I did hear you say ‘ba’ alan key?
Thanks
Yes, its an imperial size
when you say washer between fan and motor,I have washers on the armature but do you mean a the fan that has the grub screw there could be a washer just under that fan
Er, can't remember and away for new year. Go to Kenny's site and download the' A701 A701A Service Manual' there are exploded diagrams of the motor in there, its page 20 and the washer is part 161. Here is the link…
reocarchive.byethost31.com/kenwood/recipe.html
I didn't marked the position of my field coil before removing. It all came together smoothly. But now, the motor is going backwards! It that because the field coil is 180 degree out?
In case anyone has a similar problem, I fixed it by rotating the field coil by 90 degrees.
@@brucewernick6542 I am glad you got it working again.
I missed your comment, been away for a few days.
I have a Kenwood A901 where the small pulley gear melts and then runs crooked. It has happened twice now. It seems the top motor bearing and shaft get very hot. I have stripped the motor and oiled the bushes and felt. The motor turns more freely now and the bushes seem fine but the shaft and bushes are still getting warm. Maybe not hot.
The motor and speed control run smoothly.
Any ideas?
There should be a small gap between the base and the table, check the rubber feet have not perished. If no gap, then it going to get very hot as not able to draw cooling air in for the motor.
I've just bought two A701a mixers, one working and the other for spares or repair, the spares one has an on off switch that won't switch the mixer off, it just runs on full speed. How would I go about removing the switch?
1:22 It's a bit of a pain, but best way is to remove the motor, then you can check the switch for off/on, and also the mechanics for the speed control at 2:56.
@@xenon53827 got the motor out and the problem was a broken speed controller not engaging with the on off knob. just ordered the part and decided to clean and lubricate the motor bearings and found a partially destroyed top bearing, it looks like old fractures. Is there anywhere I can get a new bearing pressed in or is it a case of buying another secondhand motor?
@@fdghn4567 Try a place called 'Lana's kenwood spares' , especially the following link...
lanas-kenwood-spares.co.uk/product-category/kenwood/701702703717-series/gearbox-spares-701702703-series/
@@xenon53827 Forgive me if I appear a bit thick but are the older capacitors the cylinders? the early a701a I have has two and the later one only has one.
@@fdghn4567 at 2:49 the silver can (with plessey written on it in this case) is the capacitor. The big resistor usually looks different and more ceramic.
Could you tell me which brand is the oil? A lot of people use Labelle products for their trains and probably Labelle 107 or 108 could be used for my Kenwood but I'm not sure.
I used train oil! Sewing machine oil is ok too!
Mate can you use Motor Oil? 10W-40?
I tend not too, but should be ok
My Kenwood 701A is jerking badly at slow speed. Search online and the Kenwood chef comes up a few times. Seems like a common problem but I don't see a solution. I don't think the brushes are the problem. Mine are 14mm and the low limit is 9.5 mm. Any ideas?
OK, I have found the problem on my 701A mixer. Each of the rotor segments should have 2 leads. One of mine is broken. This means that the power is being regularly interrupted. The wire is too thin and brittle for me to reconnect so for now, I'll have to just live with it. I guess it could be rewound but it looks beyond my knowledge base.
@@brucewernick6542 they don’t usually go. Bad luck I guess.
we have one of the seventies (I think model 717), it has not been used for at least 15 years. I cleaned it and it works fine, but the motor starts smelling once in use --> what could be done? Would it still be safe to use? Can the motor be changed?
Check the rubber feet haven't disintegrated. there should be a gap between the mixer base and the table otherwise it cannot draw air up and the motor will get hot. That may be the problem.
@@xenon53827 thank you very much for the feedback, we will check
Thank you for making these videos about the Kenwood Chef A701A, they’ve helped me a lot in servicing the motor and gearbox.
On the speed adjustment section of the service manual (page 6) it mentions counting the revolutions of the planet hub on minimum speed. I am assuming they mean as close to zero on the speed control knob as possible to be the minimum. Is that correct? How many revolutions on minimum does Kenny get?
minimum is as slow as the knob will go. Not too hard to adjust, need to remove motor cover underneath and tighten down the two nuts a little until correct. Go to 2:14, you can see the screws and I explain about the speed. They usually need slowing down after a few years of service.
Thanks for this video. Just what I needed for my A901. The motor is much the same as the A701 I suppose? I bought it in 1970 I think, and it's never been serviced. One of the few things I brought to Thailand thirty years ago. One minor criticism. You tend to go a bit too fast for me. My old 83 year old grey matter needs a little more time to catch up. Thanks again.
it's meant to be used with pressing pause when needed, otherwise video gets very long. Glad this has been helpful.
That's what I did. Thanks again.
My Kenwood Major sounds rough. Is your A701A nearly the same as mine which is an A707A? I want to oil it inside but am a bit worried about taking it apart!
I was apprehensive the first time, but just watch the vid a few times, remeber to mark the motor coil housing before taking it off and all should be well.
I Like what you do, keep up the good work, easy to follow and makes it easy.
Thanks, will do!
Hi
Fantastic video.
If after adjusting the speed it dosent alter (running med/high).
What else could be the problem? Thanks
er, is it an A701A like Kenny?
@@xenon53827 sorry got shut of it but yes it was
Ah, ok!
Hi Scaley, Love your videos they are a god send! mine stopped working when I try to turn it on, there was resistance from off to low then no resistance. when I started disassembling something dropped around the switch and thanks to this video it's the button contact in the centrifugal speed control. do you know how to replace it as I haven't been able to find any instructions? I do have another "dead" one I was disassembling for spares. Also is there meant to be some sort of "gasket" under the high speed plate? one came mine but don't see one in your videos? Take care and stay safe, Mike
Hi Mike, I don't remember Kenny having a gasket. If your has one then I should probably check my spare motor.
Sorry, no idea how to replace the button, but I know a guy that does. Follow the link below to Kenny's site and look for 'Kenmix Engineering' on the links page. The guy there is extremely knowledgeable as he services Kenwoods for a living.
reocarchive.byethost31.com/kenwood/index.html
@@xenon53827 the "gasket" feels like old baking paper and my other machine doesn't have it either so something the previous family did. The broken part turns out to be the brass alloy "dumbell" in the switch so an easier fix thankfully. I have visited your site and the links thank you again.
Possible to change new dc motor the old one?
Sorry, I do not know…
Damn the shaft pin was really stuck on there, I was worrying I'd bend the motor shaft while hammering it out, luckily I did not (I hope).
Also for some reason the plastic ring on the pulley had snapped in half, suspecting it was the cause if a horrible noice my mixer was making while testing. Doesn't seem like there's spares available but luckily I have a 3D printer so I'll be able to whip one up with that!
After this it'll be hopefully run for at least another 40 years, even though I'll definitely be servicing it sooner, unlike the last owner(s).
I’d just about followed all the instructions and then thee washer fell out of nowhere!! Please help me!
Three
I will add a link to the exploded diagrams for the A701A series, It's a pdf on Kenny's site. The motor is on page 20, link below
The washers are listed along with the size of each one, so that should help.
reocarchive.byethost31.com/kenwood/A701%20A701A%20service%20manual.pdf
This is the slowest baking show I've ever seen.........but learned something!
Thank god you put this video on,I just bought one of these kenwoodchefs,s,sold as spares or repairs,
I stripped it down and thought thers risistor missing and heat sink,after looking at some other vids,
But when I seen your vid,Ha Ha" theres nothing missing they made different types for same modle,but I realised one of the bushes had the top copper disc broken away from the copper brush wire,
So I soldered it back on and the motor worked,Don`t know why as Ime no electrician,
But could you let me know if the black long thing is a heat sink and silver is reistor or capacitor and there is a nother thing between wire covered in a sleeve,Could you put me right please on what each item is,just in case I need to replace,Owe Yes I notice there is a copper looking thing with a lip but there is nothing inside of it,on mine,I don`t know what that is eigther,I wish you would of shown what all the electrical items were,but can`t have it all ,lol.
Thank you again Brilliant filming thank you for taking the time to do this,
OK, the easiest is to give you a link to Kenny's site, download the 'A701 A701A Service Manual' and go to the diagram on page 20, just look up the numbers of the parts in the diagram to see what they are. Here is link…
reocarchive.byethost31.com/kenwood/recipe.html
You are legend, thank you
You are welcome.
Hello! I was wondering if you could tell me if this knocking sound is excessive or normal operation: ruclips.net/video/T697F6zMbKE/видео.html
Is it the motor bearings that need fixing, or the contact adjustment screws on the back? Any advice would be much appreciated!
I think it sounds okay. It has a different control module which uses a triac (unlike in this video) and they generally sound a bit clunky at low speed, especially without a load. Check there’s no up-down play in the armature; if there is you should be able to loosen the grub screw on the fan with an imperial Allen key (I forget the size) and use that to take up any slack.
Thanks 🙏
Thank you.!!
I have a problem with my Kenwood Chef. The motor doesn't work properly. I've uploaded a video: ruclips.net/video/7T_i4Im5uM4/видео.html
The speed control has some problem but I don't know how to fix it.
Screw the planet, I think I'll buy a new one
Dear Xenon, I'm trying to restore and old Kenwood Chef A701A from my grandma. It has the issue that it only runs at full speed, no matter what position the knob is. I have extracted the motor and run it on a bench. Mechanically everything works just fine, the contact bar moves up and down as I turn the knob. Could it be the resistor or the capacitor that are failing? The brushes are perfect 15 mm long. If you please give me some advice I will be really grateful.
Not sure about this, look up Mike at 'Kenmix Engineering'
facebook.com/kenmixengineering/
He fixes these and should be able to give you some advice. My guess is that the contacts have stuck and are not opening as the gap widens.
@@xenon53827 Thanks for your answer. It was the capacitor! As it was in bad condition, it worked as a jumper, so the point contacts didn't have any effect and current flowed with no interruption. Is it normal that the resistor heats so much? I guess that's why the motor has a fan pointin towards it.
@@arguellonicolas check the rubber feet on the bottom of the mixer, they should leave a gap between the base and the table. This is needed as the motor sucks air up from underneath. Usually, you need to get new ones by now. Google 'kenwood chef restore' or 'kenmix engineering'. A set does not cost very much. The resistor does get hot.
@@xenon53827 Excellent, very helpful advice!
@@arguellonicolas You are welcome!