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Wheel Lock Nuts From Hell Saved By Hubitools LugDriller HU42025 Bodgit And Leggit Garage
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- Опубликовано: 5 мар 2018
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tips and tricks inside this video hopefully help you
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What an absolute nightmare I've never come across bolt that with this tight on any car whoever tighten these shouldn't be allowed to work on cars it broke every single tool that I had to take wheels off hundreds of pounds worth of tools just to take off 4 wheels I use every single tool I had to take these wheel nuts off also went through two different tool guys couldn't find anything to take these off Hubitools to the rescue and like I said in the video it's not just because they send me tools it was the only tool that worked
Alloys are damaged.
Best option would be to cut wheels of & replace.
Then take tyre fitter to court.
It spray brake fluid in wheel lug nuts. Leave for day, repeat halfway through that day.
Then try impact gun
Says a lot about today’s BMW owners, not actually being that rich. If they where rich any owner would say, just cut them off & I will buy brand new alloys
It is a masonry bit, Much better at drilling metal, but that’s another video
Yep, Wheels are damaged, new set of wheels are needed
I love that giggly happieness you get when it finally fits/works/comes-out.
So much relief.
Excellent video. Made in the real world, unlike so many of the tools promotional videos that make out how easy everything is, when it actually isn't. You know the sort of thing, they're all over youtube, "Remove a stuck wheel lock nut in five minutes".
What a struggle.....You won in the end.... You are obviously a man who takes enormous pride in his work..... Well done sir....
thanks mate
Ha,I know your pain brother...46yrs as a mechanic. What a fantastic tool,wish I had one in my time.Merc wheel bolts used to snap half way down shaft,great fun. Great vid.
In my experience it helps to leave the normal nuts in and even tighten them if they're not already too tight as removing them ads even more pressure to the locking nut
good tip mate
Leave the two adjacent fixings in place either side of the problem fixing. Removing the fixings opposite the problem one.
First Ford drill I've ever seen,good job mate!
Lol thanks mate
An epic battle 👍 I’m worn out just watching 👍
Simply Diagnostics hahaha I had to live it twice first time doing the job second time editing it lol
The job was probably easier than the edit. This RUclips lark is fun but hard work 😓. Cheers, Steve
Well the morale of the story is that, when you live in UK and your lug nuts are stuck on and won't come off no matter what you do, just take your car to Leon and tell him to rotate the tires or something. And tell your friends about it too.
ert870 hahahahahah
I thought you were in ROI. So not UK
I just love the spring on the drill idea.
After a bad experience with a tyre shop I now never let a tyre shop put my wheels on for this reason. Well done my friend I do hope the customer appreciates how much effort went into saving there wheels.
thanks mate
I know how you felt - my Lexus LS430 had same trouble with front wheels after tyres were replaced months before. After two weeks, two sets of replacement keys and many special tools later, I ended up at an engineering firm who after many struggles/ideas ended up welding on nut-on-bolt to give extra extended purchase. Two big guys bouncing on a scaffold pole extension to socket finally freed the lock nuts. Moral of the story is do not be afraid to ask to watch the fitters put the wheels on using a torque wrench because you wouldnt want to find out on a rainy night. Bloody good video all the same!
thanks mate 100%
A great demonstration of the tool & of the frustration these bloody things cause us. Well done mate!
One Auto, thanks mate
I had the same problem, two days drilling and chiseling to get one locking lug nut off. Wish I had that kit, but did it in a similar way. The spring was a great idea wish I had thought about that. They had these so tight they had broken one lug bolt just crazy tight. I had to replace all lug bolts and nuts. I hope I never encounter this again, I was doing someone a favor. Thanks for the info.
It's always a way when you're doing someone a favour and you think it's going to be a quick and easy job turns into a nightmare
When I worked on tool making projects if we snapped a high tensile bolt , we used to drill a hole through the centre of the bolt suitable for the largest across the flats Allen key. Then hammer the Allen key into the weaken stud and unscrew the stud with a high tensile Allen key. This always works. Looks like the kit your using works on the same principle.
What I love about this guy is that he is correct and no BS and in this vid, the only thing he did not say is that replacing the wheel nuts should be done with a torque wrench set at manufactures' spec. not like the con quick fit air gun brigades. so use a wrench, never a gun
Once we had to pull out the 3/8's air gun from the HGV side of the garage at school. It amazes me how tight some people do wheelbolts..
wow lol
Hey Leon, those lug bolts were very tight. If I can make you 1 suggestion next time when you get into same condition is loosen all the lugs that you can, spray penetrating oil in wheel lock stud outside and inside if you can see the lug bolt in thru dust shield also remove center caps with pick, to lube center hub of wheel. Next re-tighten to proper torq drive car to let everything warm up use the brakes helps quickly. Very important next loosen up all regular lug bolts 1 turn put paper towels in hole and masking tape the holes. Bring the breaker bar and lock penetrating oil and drive car cautiously recommendations is in abandoned parking lot now as you drive make hard turns and apply brakes left and right. After doing this for a few minutes go and recheck your lug locks, the ones that loosen well tighten the regular ones back up. Keep doing this until you get them all and keep lubing the wheel locks each time you stop. We find here in the NE USA that people have new tires put on in the winter and when they lay the lug bolts down well the snow ice melts on the threads and the rocket scientist just zap the lugs in using torq sticks. Well rust is a great loc-tite substitute that does not like to un bond. Be safe and perform above at your own risk, common sense is a must in the above and if you should lack common sense do not try this. .
Not sure if this would've worked on this troublesome BMW, but I like your method very much & it should work in most situations because the theory behind your technique is technically sound.
@@wirdy1 Update The wheel lock if you are not able to loosen as you did to remove the lock piece and center drill it past the taper part by let's say 8mm/5/16. Now here is an important part if you keep drilling the next size up till you almost get to the size of the stud and I think on that like the MB are 14mm to let's say 1/2" or 13mm put the rest of the lug bolts back in one turn outward and drive the car once again that weakened lug bolt will pop off leaving the stud part still in the hub or it will stretch so it will be loose. So there you do not have to have that special tool and the hassle to remove it from the lug bolt removed. But because you have the center mandrel to drill on center you will never have to use the 17mm extractor again. Think about this for a moment what would have happened if you twisted that tool off in the lug bolt you would have been screwed because it is hardened. Just think about that yikes! All good here hope my 40 years of helping others get out of shit like this helps everyone reading this.
Haha I felt your pain!!!! Bloody hell!!! Wish I’d seen this video 9 months ago. Lost locking nut key for my Range Rover. Spent two days cutting spinning ring off with a Dremel then hammered an undersized impact socket on which removed them. The wheel nuts still had enough shaft left to hammer a socket on unlike yours had. Brilliant video and I sure know what to do nxt time 👍
Don't you just love lock nuts at least you got them off in the end mate nice job
This video just popped up on my recommendation list. You were a fine chap back them and you still are now.. cheers
BOOM SORTED
Great effort you put into this job. The customer, if not a regular, was lucky to end up in your shop. You saved him a fortune.
diy reading thanks a lot mate much appreciated but I wish he kept driving on hahahah
LOL, yeah I bet you do, who wouldn't?
Nice work, I've got a similar problem with my VW golf. The first time I let someone else do the maintenance and they over-torqued all of the lug studs.
Bought a Lexus like that many years ago, skilled bodge fixer friend mig welded an old ring spanner onto each bolt (not one that fits the bolt, just one that fits in the recess in the wheel), a combination of being welded on and being hot made them all come off easy. Cost me a hand full of scrap offset ring spanners from a car boot sale, set of wheel bolts and a quick respray of the wheels, but made the job look easy.
👍💪👍💪
On a merc. I had the similar problem . The lug bolts on the alloys were all snapping -- we eventually had to weld sockets on and after a long struggle got them off. More than half of the lug bolts were like this.
wow
Same issue with a VW wheel-bolt, once I broke the hex-head off the wheel-bolt. Drilled a guide hole with a smaller cobalt bit. Followed with larger and larger ones until the mushroom head was drilled out and the rim came off without damage. Use a cobalt bit, as it is hard enough to drill the metal. At about $6 each for new wheel-bolts was cheaper than a new wheel.
👍💪👍💪👍
I just did this. Local mechanic said he would do this but with risk to my custom wheels. I decided I would do it. My rays Formula lug nut striped, its a 7 sided key, it took me 2 hard metal Milwaukee drill bits and 3 hours to drill it down. Ill just pay the mechanic now to replace the stud. Still costly at est $200 plus the cost of drill bits.
Hahaha, I'm stopping watching your vids... the very next day I have the same problems as you... Down to earth sane advice. Many thanks Bodgit.👍
Got my dodgy locknut off by welding … worked for me but I must add that the welder knew exactly how to do it without burning the wheel paint.
I used to weld a small circle ⭕️ a bit at a time and used Irvin nut removal kit and the heat from the weld helped free them. Worked every time. Idiots over tightening wheel nuts.
Wow what a DETERMINATION, You just don't give up my man you're awesome. I felt your pain because I have the same problem on C4 vts180 2L petrol😫. 2 local mechanics called me to collect the car as they gave up and another one told me they don't have the right tool as it's already damaged by the previous people but as I have a second car I just parked it up in my drive after couple of tries by myself and now I just bought reversable drill bits and will try them when I get in the mood🤨. Thanks a million for sharing this video full of tips and info as usual. 👏👏👏👏👍👍👍👍🥳🥳🥳🤝 you gave me hope and thank you so much.
thanks mate glad you like it i hope you get it sorted
I always crack wheel bolts loose whilst the car is on the ground and then jack up and use a battery wrench. I constantly find for some strange reason Mercedes seem to have the tightest wheel bolts and I have to use a piece of pipe on my strong arm bar to undo them. I came across a Mercedes and it was impossible to remove the wheel bolts some time after the car had been to a tyre garage and the owner took the car back to them for them to butcher them off. I didn’t want to run the risk of damaging the wheels. Fifty seven years of experience has taught me a lot.
What a relief!!! Well done
Makes you wonder if a breakdown call would go through the same effort on a wet dark night!
Pull the caliper carrier bolts and slide the entire brake assembly toward the rim as far as it will go. This will give you just enough room to heat the stud from the rear on many of these and probably could have helped enough to have removed them with one of your first options.
WE don't need 15 minutes of how tight they were!!! I had a similar situation on my 2013 GMC Denali.
I had the wheels off 3 months earlier! I did not overtighten them! The steel lugs seem to bond to the alloy wheel by galvanic action. I had tossed the 'locks' years ago and used standard aftermarket lug nuts.
I broke a 24" Breaker bar. I finally used a heavy wall 6 point impact socket with a 3/4" drive impact gun which removed them easily. They were installed with a 1/2" Impact gun. Spec calls for 140 ft/lbs. Cobalt drill bit? NEVER hold your hand over the Breaker bar swivel joint. Never grease the threads on a wheel lug.
Thanks a lot much appreciate you watching it really means a lot I've got lot more videos you can watch and comment on
Excellent video Leon. I could feel your delight when that when bolt came out. I hate to see tyre fitting bays put wheels back on with windy guns then get the torque wrench out when the nuts are already at 2 or 3 times higher the right torque.
Excellent work, and fantastic persistence at not throwing in the towel.
Qwerty1235945 thanks mate
I had the same problem, also with a BMW. I have the same breaker bar and just about got the normal wheel bolts off and I'm a big bloke. Sheared off the first security tool so went for professional help. My local tyre centre just about shifted the security bolt after I had bought a new key from BMW. Scary thing is I had driven from UK to Italy and back carrying a spare wheel for reassurance ( bmw use run flats and normally have no spare) - fat lot of use a spare wheel would have been.
Yes mate it could have been a hell of a lot worse trying to do that job or this job on the side of the road would have been next to impossible
I'm struggling and frustrated by my daughter's 2002 Renault Clio lock nuts - only two fortunately as one side of the vehicle doesn't have lock nuts. There's no lock nut key and no code in the handbook or papers to give Renault and they say they can't find a new wheel nut key based on the VIN! Anyway, I've got one more tool to try before Hubitool! Fantastic video which has given me hope after seeing an experienced mechanic up against the same problem as me a DIYer. Thank you so much for this video.
Glad the video helped you mate hopefully you'll get it sorted
There's a special tool to remove those bmw flower style lock nuts. It's a collar that goes over the wheel nut and grabs on to the ring, you then attach that collar to a slide hammer and take of the ring with the locknut, and all that's left is a multi spline bit that u can take off with a breaker bar
Corect. Briliant tool
And keep up the videos. You're an honest guy and you explain stuff really well.
Thanks a lot mate. Much appreciated.
What a coincidence that you showed a Peugeot alloy being cut .. !!! I had to do exactly the same thing to the same alloy wheel (15" 306) after I had 2 front tyres changed... got a puncture 3 weeks later and had to angle grind the whole bloody wheel off !!
Wow not good mate
The very best part of this video happens at about 1:30. Rotfl, still laughing at 9:00. Laughing with you, been there and it instantly brought back the pain that is almost as insane as the tightness of those lugs. Great video and tool information.
lol thanks mate
Had same problem on my Focus.. broke a Bergen socket jumping on a breaker bar, then breaker bar broke too...
I took the locking wheel nuts off by drilling through spinning ring, drilling small hole in the nut to spray WD40 inside the thread, hammered socket on it and eventually they all let go but what a palava that was
2 sets of Lidl drill bits I used on that job. Nightmare
Your a better man than me - that would make me quit working on cars hats off to you
I use a self centring drill bit that's slightly smaller than a T50 or T55 then bang a brand new bit in usually takes 10 min each wheel self centring drill bits are awesome
Yeah, a donkey is an appropriate term for those folks. We've done a Chevy Cruize last year which some donkey bolted on with an air gun. We ended up breaking two studs on each wheel after hours of penetrating oil applications, impact wrench work, hand tools, etc.
Yes mate for such a simple job someone can really make your life difficult and then trying to explain to a customer this is going to take a long time it's just difficult for everybody and very frustrating
We had this problem in Germany with 3 VW carryalls, the first stopped on the Autobahn with a Flat The driver broke the Wheel brace provided, then over a period of 4 hours 2 military and three Civilian truckies tried to help all failed. Eventually the ADAC arrived. Ahh VW and came back with a big wheel brace and 6 foot of pipe he got the Wheel studs of and changed the Wheel. "We always have problems with VW and some other German cars, that's why the pipe". Back at work we tried the other 2 and it took a big man with 3 foot breaker bar to loosen the studs. We re-tightened them to torque and tried again a month later the studs were over tight again. We took it up with the US Army Maintenance people who said, that because of the design and angles the studs self tightened. A while later on a private BMW we had to dill the entire head of one of the studs and then with the wheel of some heat and a stud extractor get the rest out.
Wow sounds like a battle thanks a lot for that info mate
Watching this again 🤣 . Just ordered a tool from the states to do over tite BMW. Had a few in the past week or so
90nm try 140nm that's what there meant to be
no its 120nm
@@paulken1919 mate I work for bmw its 140
What I was thinking 140nm and I own a tyre company would like to think he made a mistake with 90nm
Correct Arron bmw's are 140nm 95nm is very low plus the moly he added would also maybe cause an issue, although he did say 20miles then recheck. But good job chief!!!
you're supposed to do the lock nuts last. The 2 nuts around the lock nut, while tightened, reduce the tightening torque required to undo it.
The person who did this doesn't know that lol
It's the uncaring idiots like the one who abused this BMW that make me want to do my own maintenance whenever possible. I've been the victim of the windy gun apes in the past, never again.
I make sure I get my tyres replaced at a small independent I trust where the guys use hand tools to torque the studs or nuts. I have for decades used a smear of grease on the threads too with absolutely no issues.
What i do when i change the wheels on both my vehicules twice a year ( winter to summer and vice versa) is i use the gun to screw the nuts just so they are all the way in and not tight but that the wheel is sitting just right on the hub...and then i tighten them by hand with a cross......and when its time to remove them again.....i only use the gun....works perfectly well... and eazy
get some m12 extended nuts approx 30mm long and using a stick welder, put the nut tight on the lug nut then weld through the middle of nut. once you get the nut welded , keep filling the nut with weld to heat up lug nut, it will then undo easily
The torque setting will not be the same if you lube the threads! The original manufactures setting was done with dry threads so its easy to get an incorrect reading if lubed
👍💪
Thanks Andrew, My tire dealer forgot to put the tool back in my trunt, the couldn't find the tool. I'll try this.
lol
After breaking one socket I would call the customer to come get their car. Sorry . Take it to the gorilla that tightened them that much.when you started smiling and laughing when it came out I was excited for you!! Good man here. Thanks for putting up the good fight lol
The mech a nic hahaha thanks mate
over tightening can and possibly will cause an accident in the future. if they fit tyres for you, make sure it is by hand and not gun
yep but B@L garage told us how to do it hope he gave the customer a big bill !!
Had the exact same problem with the 3 series of my girlfriend.
Tried hammering over a socket. Not sure what they are called, but some opposite locking socket. Hammering off the ring. Drilling out (didn't know the top bit could actually be removed).
We ended up with welding a stud on there - failed two times. Wheels were actually going to be replaced by new ones.
But gees, what a sh*tty job. Glad they are off now.
BTW, proper torquespec is 140Nm for for F and G (M14) BMWs
Glad you got them off mate happy days the BMW torque spec was correct what I use for this year and model in the video I got my information direct from BMW you with the programs I pay for every year
Easiest way. Drive a tight fitting Chinese socket over the lock lug. Spin it off with an impact. They are never that tight. Save the socket for the next time. I buy cars at auction that never have the lock lug adapter. The socket method is cheap and quick.
BMW M14x1.25 wheel bolts are 140nm BOSS............all those mcguard style lockers torque to around 90/100nm or just nip up
Hi mate I got the talks direct from BMW you with with the technical information I pay for yearly
Been there mate, got the T shirt... I ended up breaking everything, then fucked up the drilling out, ended up cutting the wheel off, I was gobsmacked how much grinding was involved in cutting a wheel off ( My C4) all the lock nuts are now in the bin ... Keep up the good work,,
carbonlarge wow well if it happened to you again at least you know this kid will get you out of trouble
When I get new tires I make sure they use a torque wrench on the wheels then check them when I get home. This is a real problem with poorly trained workers.
sorted
All goes to prove the old proverb, "You can't get thicker than a tire fitter." I never let one of those monkeys anywhere near my wheel nuts. Always tighten them with the tool which will be available to you if you have a puncture. We do carry a 12" breaker bar and a decent socket to make life easier.
lol
When I lost my BMW locking nut key I just went to the BMW garage and they sold me a new key for about a tenner. They had a box of the different keys. I was amazed! On the other hand, Peugeot can’t provide a new key without the code number off the old key. F*#*king useless!
Once you got the hardened cap off with the socket, could you not then weld a bolt on it then tap it back in?
I think people need to realise how DANGEROUS this is. This is truly criminal. It's not a case of it costing money by needing tools etc. It's simply the bolt is so tight, it literally stretches the bolt, eventually what will happen is, a bolt will snap... followed by the rest and the wheel falls off, usually while taking a bend. This is why it's CRUCIAL not to overtighten bolts!
With these types of jobs, it's unfortunately never the moron that messed the car up that spends hours to undo the damage. Quality work here.
The joys of being a mechanic Mate lol
heres one for you ,go ln from behind remove caiiiper then from front remove axle nut remove wheel with rotor attached now from back of rotot grind stud ass off then punch stud out ,,,done lots of vehicles this way 15 minutes or less ,,no special tools required
wheel locks are called mcguard .
if you phoned them you get the kit to remove them at no cost, it the same kit your showing but you send it back afther use .
i took mine off and bin them and use a normal nut waste of time having them being honest .
if you want locking nuts good ones vw ones was advised .
That's just not practical in a garage if I tell the customer I'm going to have to wait over a week to get the parts just to take off the wheels it's not going to happen we had to take off the world because we had all the work needed done to the car ASAP if you doing at home on your driveway no problem but from my business and customer point of view this is just not practical
Easier way to do this is to drive the vehicle with all the other wheel bolts/nuts loosened off two turns until the wheel starts knocking tighten the bolts/nuts back up bang on an old socket then loosen off the lock nut. If they have collars that turn break them off then use a smaller socket!
Boy can I feel your frustration. Glad to see even the experts are human....
We are all human mate😊😁
I once got all the bolts out and still needed to use a sledgehammer and block of wood to get Ali wheels off a astra.
Yes mate that happens more than you think I've had to do that a good few times on all different cars
Great job just finished watching Keep up good work
I watched a tyre fitter at a well known UK fast fit company. He used a impact gun then a torque wrench and said that’s it done, he had over torqued it . That the torque set,the torque wrench never moved before it clicked, I told him I will do it properly when I get home.
Besides the obvious fact that the lugnuts are over tightened, I find it that with cars that have lugstud type of lugnuts(bmw,benz,volvo,etc), the littlest bit of rust/corrosion on the threads of the lugstud leads to them being a pain in the ass to remove also
Yes mate but not to this extent this was definitely two to these ones been over tightened but in some cases yes I have seen rust and even rust jacking behind the disc to cause other issues
Hi there try using dragon tungsten carbide drill bits for hardened steel and use diamond dress wheel to put a good edge on it on slow speed it will drill throw them like hot knife through butter keep up the good work and Merry Xmas and prosperous new-year
I had the same problem on an Audi once but I managed to get them out with a torch wurth welding spray and a lot of wet rags
Holy shit. I'm 2.27 in and I've had to comment. Broken socket? You must have a bit of strength in you. Imagine a 10 stone guy on the hard shoulder. I had a similar problem this year. God dam national tyres and 20 duggas.
hahaha
Hammer a 23mm 12 point socket on and wiggle it side to side and up and down, this breaks the outer ring and head off,you're then left with the bolt and the inner splines showing,weld the head to a 19mm socket then use that to undo the bolt, if it's still very tight,raise the car on the ramp an put a big bar between the rim and the suspension and literally pull the wheel off the hub stretching the bolt.
Put the other bolts back in and the locking wheel bolt will come out easily.
I have done this numerous times and it has worked every time.
Also the wheel torque is 140 Newton Meters not 90.
I don't know why you're telling me to do the job you obviously didn't watch the video properly because I explain why you couldn't do what you are saying in the video and as regards to torque for the wheels on this model the torque I selected is right maybe next time watch the full video
You can clearly see in the video when I did hit a socket over at the damage it caused to it and just rounded it but you would have seen this if you watch the video properly
I had two front tyres fitted recently and the fitter airgunned the wheels nuts up bollock tight. Long story short I asked him to slacken the nuts and torgue them at 110 nm as they should have been to start with.
Boom sorted 💪💪💪👍
Brilliant video well done glad it was SORTED 😊😊👍👍
Leon, one thing you may want to consider...if you lubricate the threads, you get more stretch in the bolt for the same torque setting, as you've reduced the friction between the threads. This can overstretch the studs, even to the point of them failing before you reach your torque setting in some instances, so be careful, mate. Most bolts are specced as dry or lubricated when tightening them (usually, wheel studs are dry for the specified torque, head studs are lubricated, etc.) Safer just making sure the threads are clean and free of rust and dirt...and maybe a dab of grease on the tapered part to seal water from working its way down to the threads in the future.
Still, good on ya, mate - bitch of a job, but it's sorted now. :-)
aussiebloke609 hi mate I hear what you are saying but I've never had that problem with wheel nuts as regards the Grease thanks for watching mate
If you use a light lubricant its fine like penetrating oil, or motor oil. anti seize I would avoid on these.
I’ve never had an issue as they don’t torque crazy high like head bolts or flywheel bolts
Thats some 18 year old at the tire shop with an 850 pound torque air hammer putting them on. He used to work at the oil change place and stripped the threads off my oil pan bolt.
wow lol
that handvrake is working anyway. thanks for uploading isbt there a socket that cuts into the head of the stud
I used a 4:1 torque multiplier, but you can't use an impact wrench on it. It's not a cheap tool, but I can get stuck on crankshaft bolts without killing myself. It all done with gears. I can apply 50 ft-lb torque on my breaker bar and the socket end will be 200 ft-lb. Maximum capacity is 1000 ft-lb on the socket end.
Bob Moy I have a torque multiplier but I wanted to show people just how tight these were and the other problem with the top multiplayer especially on wheel stud there is no feeling I could have done more damage with that
well done mate. great video. do you have any tips for removing broken exhaust manifold studs? ive run into problems with those on several occasions and none of the recommended easy out tools are any good for that. keep up the good work
Hi mate it all depends on how it exactly breaks if it breaks flush the only thing you can do is drill it out and then retappet if it breaks with a stud make sure you heat it up up and work it backwards and forward slowly and it should come out but the best way I find is just to be very careful when you take them out if you need to heat them up with a gas struts then that's what you have to do first that's normally the best way to get them out without breaking in the first place unfortunately when they break inside the engine sometimes depending where they are you have to take the engine out as they are impossible to try and drill out straight it's one of them things that can be an absolute nightmare
i am a welder and the other day i helped a gye change out 4 tires but he didnt have the security socket to take off the one off each tire. so basicly what you did was drill it out and put a sort of easy out in the stud after you drilled it and took it out. what i did was weld big nuts to the security nuts and took them out no problem with a long johnson bar. some of those nuts will spin and you cant do the welding but theese ones were solid so it worked------ why couldnt you have done the same thing this is my question? my situation was simular to yours where the nuts were recesed in about one inch or so maby inch and a quarter. thanks 4 sharing your knowlage.
Im a little behind on ya videos Leon and thouroly enjoyed this one, full on informative content and a muscle breaker up front to appreciate the tool that broke the back of a mongrel job , still grinning , thanks and likes on the tool and use it's brilliant ,top job buddy 👌👊😉
thanks mate
and Milo came around at the end to inspect your work! Good video and fortunately never had so many tools break but hed to take the security nuts off a few times. Only comment would be that if the kit allowed to chain drill, you could use a faster speed on the first go- Good use of the vernier- a few wont realise that the rod is also part of the gauge. We all learn when someone shows us! thanks.
great job..learned alot from this video which is not to buy a BMW...lol
thanks mate
Looking at the tapered mating surfaces they have been put in dry and a degree of friction welding seems to have taken place.between the surfaces. Copperslip helps prevent this along with the correct torque settings. Always grease your nuts and studs.
It depends on who you listened to as regards putting grease on the nuts of the studs every single manufacturer says not to do this
You can get a pipe in the right size and stickweld it inside to the bolt. The heat will help getting it loose. A very big pipe wrench or welding a big nut in the end of the pipe for a breaker bar and then it will come loose. We have done this at work and it´s a pain but it works. Good job anyways!
That's way too much work too risky can damage a lot by doing it that way this way yes it takes a bit of time absolutely no damage everyone happy
@@bodgitandleggitgarage yeah, but it´s still better than cutting up the rim. :) Stickwelding a pipe to the bolt has worked every time we´ve done it and only one rim got some burned paint around the bolt. It´s something to consider if you run out of options atleast. I work at tire shop btw and we run in to this problem now and then.
@@ltp7595 I hear what you are saying mate but if it's done wrong you still have to end up replacing the wheel if you walk it also to get the real remanufactured sprayed rebalanced fixed and stuff like that it might just be easy buying a new wheel I'm not saying it won't work and just saying it has to be done properly
@@bodgitandleggitgarage yep. But something to try before you start cutting up the rim. It´s always better if you can get it off with your metod of course or any other that won´t effect the rim. :)
@@ltp7595 yes mate 100%
after taking the lock slip ring and front key part off the underlying lug nut has a splined interface for which there is a tool?
I do appreciate even this is still difficult in your 1000Nm case.
Agatools do a wheel lock removal tool for BMW but it is £400 & buyer needs a trader licence.
Yes I know what you are saying mate and also in the video if you look I actually shown that and I also show that it just broke as I tried this the little splines just rounded I show this in the video I hold it up to the camera
as a service patrol for one of the big motoring organisation i come across over-tightened wheel nuts and bolts quite often and it does frustrate as its such an unnecessary problem. second only to no locking wheel nut key because the customer keeps it at home for safe keeping!!!!!!
i bet that sooo much fun on the road side lol
@@bodgitandleggitgarage that's why we got recovery vehicles and YOU. 🤣😂🤣
@@promischristodoulou3681 hahahha
I am having the exact same problem. Porsche wheel locks from hell! Time to drill because I broke everything too!!
good luck mate
I wonder if the super-cold weather made the metal more brittle? I broke a MB socket last week in minus temperature. My wheel nuts were over-tightened as well. Just down to two locking nuts now - going to use a reverse twist socket hammered on. Wish me luck!
I'm stuck with a Jag S type at the minute with overtightened lock nuts. These are an absolute pain as they have this dome on them and when you try to beat a socket on them it only goes onto the dome and spins, the only way I think can be done is to try and somehow remove the dome ( the metal on the dome is really thick) and because it is a stud and nut setup drilling the stud is not an option, even tried welding a piece if metal onto the dome and try to spin it using an impact in the hopes it would wear away the lip holding it on 😂😂😂 yeah right. Luckily it's a friend of mines car and only a weekend toy. He said he was getting new wheels for it so time for my favourite tool... 4" angle grinder 😎😎 sorted
Good luck mate
The Joy of Victory ! Proper Job M8 !
thanks mate
I bet a trigger happy BMW apprentice tightened those nuts, my brother had a similar experience with his Bmer not so long ago. It was shortly after BMW dealer service included tire rotation. Job well done Leon.
Krzysztof Kacprzak thank mate
Everytime I have needed new tyers I always tell them to Torque them to there spec. Had a few thrown at me and huff while there walking away but most agree with me.
100%
I'm surprised that "kit" didn't use left handed drill bits! I doubt it would have spun out those bolts though. But stranger things have been known to happen. Plus? The turning them in the direction they needed to be going anyways? May not have helped, but certainly wouldn't hurt, eh? lolol
Wow I have never seen an impact socket break that insane!