Seized Ford Flathead V8 Teardown Pt5: Cam and lifter removal. They're crusty!
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- Опубликовано: 21 окт 2024
- The crusty seized flathead v8 teardown continues with the camshaft and lifters. I've never done this before. So I'm learning as I'm doing it. Sometimes what works on one motor will not work on another. I'm not an expert please treat this as entertainment, but if you want to try it, do so by all means but at your own risk. Next instalment will feature removing the studs.
Twenty seconds in and I already love this video. Doesn't get better than working on a Flathead with the rear end of a 32 Ford in the background !!!!!
Thanks Bob. Thanks for checking out my older stuff. It's good for me because I get to revisit it myself. The car in the picture is "Old Rusty" my 30A on 32 rails. There are a few videos featuring the car.
Good job Mart! You got them all out without any damage. Hope you have as much success with the studs !
Then it’s off to being cleaned!
Thanks Ralph. I don't know about off to be cleaned.. It will get cleaned though. Well sort of.
@@MartsGarage
Understand your "economic preference" but have always felt a trip through the "hot tank" was a worthwhile investment. Even though it means new cam bearings.
I'd put some heat on the liftr bores , with the 50/50 mix and let it set for a day or so. ood luck
Gramps
Thanks for the tip, Gramps. It tickles me pink to see your name pop up! Mart.
your getting there mart .
Yes, John, thanks, I think I am.
hi
i'm doing1951 engine out of a truck,and i'm very interested in your apperatise of using the exhaust manifold holes to attatch to the engine stand. did you do a video on that?if you have would you send me a link? thank you for taking the time and effort to video your work,very interesting.
Hello Gary. Thanks for the nice comment. I never showed making it, but I did rework it and showed some of that. You can see it here ruclips.net/video/FhkV0M6-4UY/видео.html
It is based around a heavy piece of angle iron. If I were doing it again I would put the end pieces on the other way around so the bolts are easier to access. Thanks for watching.
@@MartsGarage thank you for taking time to answer my request, it was very helpful.
I broke a ford B block trying to move the lifters like this, the iron is very thin in this area. Next time i will cut the lifters to remove the camshaft Like you said every engine is different.
Hi Andre. I broke a couple of the lifters, trying to get them to move the valves.
Will be interested to hear what the machinist says about this one. Appears you may have saved her, and I admit I was skeptical. Well done! Hopefully you are on friendly terms with a good shop!
Mercman, It will definitely need machining. One option would be to bore it myself using a boring bar I bought a year or two ago. I've never used one, though. So just trying that would be an interesting exercise. I would need to make parts for the boring machine.
martsrods that would be interesting and educational, for me. The machining is far beyond my skills. Watching with interest, however you proceed.
Mart, how is the bore ? clean it up new pistons and rings and back on the road!
Sorry to say it's a no-go on just fitting new rings etc. The bores are very badly deteriorated, as if they have been eaten away.
Just some musings of mine on how I might have approached the cam 'freeing', avoiding levering on the gear teeth of the timing wheel. I was wincing at the thought of them 'popping' as you levered away! Essentially you have 3 cam bearings that might be stuck/seized/partially seized in this situation, yes? Would, after copious amounts of penetrating solution (insert - your favourite concoction) have been applied at the bearing housings, a brisk 'bop' with a 'soft' hammer on the end of the camshaft (timing gear centre) help? Too risky? Potentially damaging the cam/gear? Due diligence in the application of your 'bops'! Yes, I know it might cause damage, but it might shift the 'blighter' enough for removal, if all else fails. Also, applied heat to the bearing housings, again with due diligence, might break that potentially corroded/gunk-glued bond that's holding the cam locked in place.
Also, would diligent use of 'soft' (say wood?) wedges, between the timing gear and the block help any in 'breaking' the seal that's holding the cam to it's bearing surfaces? I've used and seen use of these methods to break corrosion bonds of suspension, steering, axle, engine and gearboxes. Approaching the leverage of the timing gear; would the removal of the bolts holding the gear to the camshaft (they are two separate pieces, yes?), facilitate the concoction and employment of a home-brewed plate with a socket welded to it (or similar such configurations), re-bolting the timing gear and application of a large lever to break the corrosion bonding. I'm thinking a 'breaker bar' with a hollow pole over it would make an unlimited force applicator!
Thoroughly enjoying the disassembly journey with this engine. A great exercise, regardless of whether it ever runs, simply trialing methods to achieve what you're after; a disassembled engine with the least amount of damage to all remaining parts.Onwards... :o)
Hi Koops. You're worrying too much, Mate. I was levering very carefully. All you say is correct, but I just tried one method and it worked. Realising the cam would turn one way away from the lifters helped a lot. I think trying to move the lifters by turning the cam would have broken either the gear teeth or the cam. I'd been advised to knock the lifters up so that's what I did. Glad you're enjoying the series.