Drain Tips: Don't Make This Critical Mistake!
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
- This video covers when to use perforated pipe, and how it can commonly be misused when installing a french drain. Most importantly, once water is contained in solid drain pipe, keep it in solid pipe. This includes downspouts! Perforated pipe is great for collecting water, but not for holding it. Do not make this crucial mistake.
For more information: www.lawn-n-order.net
Scheduling A Consultation: www.lawn-n-ord...
Instagram: / lnolandscaping
Facebook: / lawnnorderlandscaping
Pintrest: / lawnnorder
Nice video, well spoken, explained coherently, and no fluff. Much appreciated.
Glad it was helpful!
My thoughts exactly. Thank you!
Excellent video. Thanks.
happy to help!
Nice video. But at 0:52 and 4:12 there are contradictions. I understand that overall you should try to avoid down-pipes connected directly to perforated pipe, but in this specific case it was still the better option to do the connection. Ideally maybe a short non-perforated segment could be added where down-pipes connect.
Just misspoke it backwards. Once you contain water, keep it contained in a solid pipe. That is why we have two drain lines in the ditch at 4:12. On is solid, the other is perforated for the drain. This just saves you from digging a second trench.
Should you only cover with rock? Can you put soil
Over rocks ?
Some contractors do put grass and soil, we do not however. Soil drains a lot slower than gravel, making the drain less effective. We work in areas where rain fall is fast and heavy 3-5” storms and it’s steep, causing water to move fast. Best to have the most efficient drain possible.
The man mentioned , "A Rain Event " . Foundations were made WAY before perforated pipe And once you start sueing Developers for cutting corners on grading , it'll be good again.
I don’t know the exact time frame but it’s been somewhere in the last decade or so that grading was not a requirement for a home inspection prior to sale.
@@lawn-n-orderlandscaping1389 example A 40 yr old neighborhood , now a Vons , CVS and a starbucks , Chevron , and other shops new development an acre of blacktop beautiful blacktop ta boot , and then it rained..must i explain ,
@@lawn-n-orderlandscaping1389 even though it hardly rains in So Cal , the home inspector , checks drainage,,any where in america where developers , contractors build over orange groves , walnut groves,and in the 50& 60's the houses are level , but the streets all have slope , thats why alleys are a good thing they help with parking in back , and DRAINAGE. HEY MICHIGHAN USE A DIFFERENT GLUE IN YOUR ROOFING SHINGLES WUD YA . AND CREEDANCE CLEAR WATER HAS A NEW SONG , " keep on cloggin"
Best description I've heard!
Thanks! There's a lot of thought going into designs like these but the most important is not stepping on your toes by trying to cheap out on using one drain pipe, when you really need two.
Finally someone who understands that the water runs through the rock ….
Once someone invents a magic pipe that suctions water to it we will change the world!
Never use the black pipe.. it sucks and fails all the time 😎💯
There's an application for everything. We haven't had one fail in decades.
Wow.... You're confusing
What’s your confusion? Happy to clarify
Circling back, still need any clarification?
That means that you wouldn't use a catch basin w/ perforated pipe either? For example, 1) what if you know that in downpours the water flows quickly toward the house's stone foundation? You've been able to see that though the flow happens against a long length, there are 1 or 2 spots where you know a lot of the surface water will run and smash into the house foundation. So, the idea is to put 1 or 2 catch basins into the ground at those points - where you know a high volume of water will run. But then you connect a perforated pipe (in gravel) to those catch basins to re-direct both direct surface water at high volumes AND water that seeps into the ground along the entire length (say, 15 feet).
You’re correct and that’s what we did! But the Perforated pipe/basin system has to be separate from the solid downspout pipe. That’s our main point here.
@@lawn-n-orderlandscaping1389 Ok, thanks for the clarification.
perfect! I'm currently trying to install a foundation drainage system for my 100 year old house (not historic, just old) and this was the question I had yesterday from my husband. Now I need to see about how to do the end of that french drain.
Happy it helped. Do you mean the exit end or the beginning? The start can be capped or have a drain basin installed. The end we generally surface into a ditch or off of a bank. Possible using some river stones to break up the water and disperse it on exit.
@@lawn-n-orderlandscaping1389 Yes I mean the exit end. Thank you. No ditch nearby to end it into, so I'm working on that end, but at least it's not just going under my house now.
@@deborawagner7657 exactly. I would say worse case scenario you surface the drain and have a wet lawn... Less than ideal but better than house damage. Id say you need a longer line to exit the lawn, or look into dry wells for the end of it.
@@lawn-n-orderlandscaping1389 Googling dry wells. Lol. Thank you. Probably going to need to add some line to it.
Is this a big deal? The house im looking at has french drain. When i looked at the house it was moist down in the basement. Is this something i would have to deal with for as long as i live there? Would i be able to have a finished basement? Ty
Would you recommend cutting a few slits at the top of solid pipe so water can drain into it but not drain out of it from the bottom? I've got a downspout that drains directly above a retaining wall I'm building on my property, but since most retaining wall guides call for using perforated pipe for effective soil drainage, I'm having a tough time balancing the pros and cons of the best practices you mentioned in this video vs. what retaining walls require. Thanks in advance!
Hey John, Thanks for asking. Youll want both. I like your perforated on top idea, but the reality is thats not how perforated pipe works. Generally wat happens is if the wall holds too much water and cant flow through the backfill fast enough it will seep through the bottom holes of the pipe and exit much faster through the void faster than the gravel.
Long story short youll need both. Perforated and solid right next to each other in the same trench under your wall backfill. If you cut holes in your downspout youre only risking dumping roof water into your wall which would be catastrophic.
I don’t run the downspout pipe straight into the 4” solid corrugated pipe for my customers, if that pipe fails then the gutters will back up and eventually rot the facia boards. I put an 8” drain box at the downspout exit. This way if the pipe fails the water can still exit the system
We have done that before, it works well. You can also pop the pipe off of the downspout to inspect and hydrojet. Water would also slowly leak out of the joint of the pipe and downspout in that instance as well. Given the surrounding gravel, fabric, and environment, pipe damage isn't a likely concern, therefore a box would only allow sediment into the drain.
doesn't filter fabric SLOW the water from getting into the pipe?
slightly, however, clogging it with clay would be much much worse. Most of the water in this instance is surface water regardless.
I would never use filter cloth.. Clay particles will seal it over time and make the drain useless.. Washed pea gravel is sufficient and will always work, Any particles that may get can periodically be flushed out by installing a blowout and the high point of the run. Just a pipe to the surface that the owner can put a hose in to flush the line.
I don't have clay soil, I think the filter cloth will work for me. But that's a good point about the filter cloth. I guess it would depend on the type of soil you have.
Sort of... If youre digging through clay likely your waters problem is surface water, not sub surface. Clay will only clog the fabric as much as clay can clog water by itself without fabric. In clay dense areas, you'll often find the water running across the surface which is why we don't cover our drains either.
@@lawn-n-orderlandscaping1389 should maybe mention the cases where fabric fails and when not to use it. Using fabric in many cases where it could fail would be a very expensive mistake.
I live in ND and my property is graded towards the detached garage at the back, thus water gets into the garage during spring melts, and heavy rain.
Could I use this French drain method around the garage perimeter to divert the water away? Any issue in the winter?
That’s the exact purpose we use French drains for actually. Our only advice is yet 5ft or so if slope away from the garage and put the trench there rather than against the foundation.
@@lawn-n-orderlandscaping1389 thank you kindly for replying. I'll start the project this summer. I won't put the drain right against the foundation like you said. 5ft away from the foundation should be perfect. Thank you.
Grade away from the building.
Towards the French drain away from the building,that’s the proper way to do it