Great videos, I need to get started on my yard, but the best advice is to start projects right after heavy rain so you'll know exactly where your drains need to be and most importantly the ground will be soft enough to easily shovel
I love your videos because you explain your work as something a person could do themselves. Once the watch your video they realize it is better to get someone like you to do it.
Hi there from Australia. I am not a professional plumber, but had plenty of experience with pipes. I can see a problem with your setup that it carries all the water from closer to the the street by the gravity into the pit, which is in the middle of the yard. Then (if sump pump works) it will be pumped back to the street by another long pipe. I envision a better design to dig much deeper well close to the street, and drainage lines coming from the property to the street. This way, you will have water collecting on another place than your yard and you might be able to use this water for irrigation if the well is deep and big enough (water tank type). If the sump pump breaks or power is gone, you will have more time to fix it as the collection point will be further away from the mid-yard in the right discharge direction.The slope of the pipes looks very small, so they will be prone for clogging (as they look like corrugated inside as well). You will not lower the water level much as well as the pipes are close to the ground, so it might be a problem for winter frost, and some fruit tree roots might die, if anybody plants them in this yard. On the positive side, the job was done quickly, and it does job for now!
I'd like to see a vid in another 12mths from now to see how those tree roots have settled into that perforated black pipe. There are many other vids here on YT that show exactly that.
Styro Roc might be ok for shipping crap in boxes but I sure as hell wouldn't use it for a french drain, foundation footing and / or bulletproof vest!!!
Not sure if anybody has mentioned this before in the comments, but please remember to call your utility companies (electric, sewer, cable) BEFORE you do any digging. They will come out and mark where those respective lines are for free (usually). You can Google that number for your particular city.
Even better if you connect to a receptacle of some sort- city catch basin in a stormwater system especially. daylighting the water on the street can give you icy patches in cold weather.
Great, simple concepts. I prefer to use PVC with holes in it, wrapped in washed #2 and geotextile fabric. I feel that it will be much longer lasting and with PVC, you can aggressively blast the inside and not worry about damaging something. My way is absolutely more work and expense. Likely 3 x the work.
Do you have a video? I think your way would be by far better and more durable, if you provide the material list, would be nice, do they sell the PVC tube already with holes or I have to drill them? What size of tube do you recommend? Thanks in advance.
Chuck too many catch basins will clog your system over time. Most definitely will cause extra maintenance. That has been my experience anyway. Speaking of performance over time, would you post some videos of systems that you installed a few years ago in action to show us how they are still performing?
Silt will drop through those grates very quickly and block the whole system up. Here in the UK we would wrap anything like that in a geotextile fabric, which will slowly allow the water through but prevent solids. Also, pipes that close to the surface run the risk of having a fork punch through them when somebody is digging that doesn’t know that they are there. The minimum for burying pipes over here is considered beyond the depth at which a spade would go to under normal circumstances. . You’d also never get away with jump in the water into the street, but I accept that everywhere is different. Still, enjoyed your video and don’t mean to sound like a smarty-pants!
I agree with everything you said, if someone decides to dig a tree in the future they’ll puncture the entire drainage lines. Also jump up water to the street is horrible can’t believe he did that. I’m shocked
Personally this system will require in roughly 10 years total clean out, and much more work than other methods If one had to put in a drainage system It would have been much cheaper and easier to have filled those trenches almost to the top with gravels and covered the top with a form of cardboard or several layers of paper, back filled the top with very little dirt, Water that collected anywhere along those lines would quickly drain down and flow down, Put the line to the road deeper so water would flow there, Install only one sump pump by the road to pump out any accumulation of water,
Im planning to remove the sod, haul all the clay away, almost fill trench with gravel, only leaving enough for a little bit of top soil and put the sod back in The big fabric debate. Burrito style, top only, none?
Love the straight forward video’s but have a question for you, when you trench dive you cut at a leveled cut or do you cut with a grade for water flow?
Thank you for all the awesome video. What’s The best outlet/cap for a drain ending in dirt/sand area ? I’m worried a standard drain grate will get clogged when the sprinkler turn on and shift some of the dirt and sand. Thanks
Just purchase a house. In Orange county NY and the back yard is soggy yard had a lower and upper level hold by stone retainer wall. Definitely need to budget getting a better drain system back there.
may I know how long had you install the plumb? And how to judge where to put the drainage? I had similar problem in my yard not only the back and the side too, which make me hard to walk on the sod around the house and the sprinkler system is hard to adjust as the normal sprinkling like 3 days in a week & 2 times each would make the backyard only watery. When I cut it to 2 times a week and it makes the front yard overly dry😢. Can you tell how is the soggy situation improved?
$15.95 for a 9” catch basin riser. $15.35 for a 2ft section 6” SDR35. Plus the time to make each riser. Both work. However, $15.95 isn’t breaking a job that cost 4 to 5 thousand to install. The 6” catch basins cannot be modified to be rated for 4” pipe flow rates. Plus, they have a tiny sump area for debris and quickly fill allowing dirt into the pipe outlet. The outlets for ALL catch basins 9” or bigger can be modified for 4” pipe flow rates. In fact, NDS is slowly introducing there new outlets that have the punch out. They are showing up in some stores already. The old ones , although no punch out, can be modified for 4” flow rates also. So no, they are not the same.
big wiggle the old one you have to use a dermal tool to take out the center insert of the inlet/outlet adaptor. They now have a inlet/outlet adaptor that is marked for you to punch out. Which can be done with a screw driver. Good luck getting the new insert...they are hard to find. You could go to the NDS website and get them I suppose.
I have a neighbor next to me whose sump pump discharges out into the street and in the winter the water flows down and creates a large icy spot in front of my driveway. If the neighbor had trenched it out on the other side of his house to the street it would have been fine. Now I have to figure out if I need to talk to the city about it. I don't know what's permitted with a discharge to the street. Maybe he needs to bury one of 55 gallon barrels with rocks in it right at the discharge point next to the street. My point is, make sure your discharge isn't creating a problem for someone else. Does the electrician also have to trench out to the sump pump from the back of the house?
Great video! Helps a lot! One question, how large of an area will this drain system pull from? In other words, if you put in one line, how far to the sides will it drain water? This is in Florida, where there is a lot of sand. Thanks.
I live next to DOW chemical and their property drains on to my back yard. I don’t know what chemicals drain into my yard but it is really good stuff! What ever it is turns anything (dirt, grass clippings, gravel) to liquid in the drain pipe. I keep thinking I’ll get a bill for the service, but so far it’s free drain cleaner! It does make a pretty pink foam that washes into the street as it eats everything in the drain line. I thought this would be a problem, but turns out to be cool finger paint the kid in the neighborhood all love to play in. It smells like bubble gum and attracts al the kids like flies on poo. I did notice the kids with 6 fingers tend to make the best artwork. I was setting a lawn chair and beer cooler out to watch the kids after a good rain, however, kids stole most of my beer. I upgraded to a refrigerator with a padlock in the front yard and a bench made of two five gallon buckets and a 2 x 12. May I suggest calling DOW for free service near you?
So what happens when the catch basins fill up with dirt and start going into the drain lines. Doesn't look like those grates on top of the catch basins will hold back any dirt and sand.
Hey Chuck, if I have a 20’ run on the side of the house and want to use gravity vs pump... how do i make it work? Have a video for gravity fed and getting the right gravity feed?
Mike B that’s definitely a good weekend project. I saw some vids and they align with what you are saying. Gearing up to do it next month. Have a slight grade, which was better before me and the neighbor put in pools at the same time. Needless to say grading was never the same after resod. Thanks
Hello! I like watching your videos. Very informative and simple. We are dealing with a similar situation in our property. The builder has made a 3" drainage system right in between our property and the neighbors. It is used for both downspouts and surface water, and of course, it doesn't work. When the system is on the border and it serves both properties, is the repair cost shared? Also, shouldn't the french drain have gravel around it to prevent soil from clogging? I watched another video that you made where you filled the trench with gravel around the pipe. Granted, the pipe model was different. Which system is better? Thank you!
Water travel to the lowest spot under the ground. The key is make your house like a island Surount it is a weather trench. Unde weather trench is the french drain in that trench. Your yard will stay dry all year around. Follow gravity . We can not block water, we trench it , detour it to another direction, away from the house, toward the public drain
Is there a reason you use the corrugated pipe vs the hard smooth walled drain pipe? My past experiences with the flexible corrugated pipe is it fills up with sediment and if the ground shifts or settles you can end up with low spots where the water will not drain well. Plus standing water in the pipes can be a great breading ground for mosquitoes.
My raised leach field is right against my foundation and we have a high water table. Should I consider adding a French drain in between the two to allow some relief of ground water because my sump pump runs frequently during the wet season?
I have a similar problem. My house has a crawl space and I do have my drainage and sump pump installed but when it's raining heavy this thing runs every 10 minutes.
All you drainage guys need to cover working with Georgia clay and ground that is full or rock that’s extremely difficult to work with. I have had my French drains redone twice since I moved in my house. I don’t think the guys could dig deep enough, like 10 inches down, to effectively lay the drainage tube and fill it with gravel and then wrap all that. I think they also stopped short of running the drain all the way to the street. Additionally, the way my lot was excavated has left me with uneven areas where water gets trapped under the sod and between the clay. Literally, the ground moves beneath my feet. I’ve tried everything. I just don’t feel like paying out another $3k or more to have the drains redone and my bad back and knees won’t have me doing all that manual labor.
My neighbor in NJ has a sump pump about 36' to 42" below ground level and swears it doesn't freeze. You could have a switch inside your house to operate it manually. I also wouldn't use a pop-up at the end discharge, just run the water straight out. You should have some downward pitch at the end of the pipe so most of the water drains. You could also run 2" to the curb if the pump discharge is 1 1/4 or 1 1/2". The 2" will never fill completely, so if it did freeze, it won't burst the pipe. Put your check valve high at the top of the vertical pipe just before the 90° turn to horizontal and drill 2 or 3 very tiny (About 1/8" or a little smaller) holes in the vertical pipe so it drains back into the basin after the pump turns off. I've never done this, but I don't see why this wouldn't work. I hope this gives you some ideas if you didn't start yet. Good Luck.
Yeh corrugated pipe don't do well here in a Chicago winter. If you're below frost line it works well but if not. Water sits in the grooves then freezes. Then dams up the water then everything freezes and doesn't work. Then in the early spring when the melt comes and early spring rains the drainage doesn't do anything until the ground warms above freezing. I know from experience lol. I deal with it every year
If you're asking about the pipe to the curb, the largest pipe needed is the size that connects to the pump. That's the most water the pump can discharge.
After Installation, do the yard continue to have standing water and the french drain allows it to drain out faster, or do it solve the water standing in the yard altogether?
The water that puddled on top should drain almost as fast as it falls thru the catch basins or surface drains. The ground water the french drain collects in the days after the storm should be from adjoining properties. Hard to know if you really need the french drain until you give the ground time to dry out after installing surface drains. That would mean possibly digging up the same sections a year later.
Why not install 2 types of drain while the trench is open? Cost of the pipe, will need less stone smaller void. Labor is the toughest part. Not sure if thats the way to go I’m asking
Hey man thank you so much for this video. This is the type of system i believe i need. I’m in charleston sc so i know things may be different, but if you don’t mind me asking, roughly how much is a system like this with a lifter and about the same size you built? Thanks for any help with this.
Love your videos! Does the french drain/easy flow need to run to day light? Or, can you dig a pit, fill the pit with stone, and have it drain into the pit?
You should mention with this “guarantee” that it’s a southern solution. Because I’m pretty sure this is a really temp solution if applied in Canada. Lol. Frost line would change this whole deal.
Ground water could flow to a ravine with a stream behind our house that leads to a small lagoon with deer, geese, other wild life. Would a yard drain with catch basins and sump pumps work for our yard? We want to have trees in the back yard also so what kind of trees could be used?
Hi Henley- yes pump and basin would work, but if you have good fall to ravine, gravity drain is what you need. I don’t know what kind of trees would look good. That is your choice😃
Hey Chuck , ??? Why is there groundwater coming up ? When will the ground water stop coming up? Won't the sump pump keep sucking up the gr8ubd water . That could be endless ground water . Friends House had some sort of stream under theyr backyard. Couldn't that just keep sucking the stream water ??
Chuck and his Apple Drains videos saved me $7200 dollars! Thanks Chuck!
Throw chuck a bone
How?
Great videos, I need to get started on my yard, but the best advice is to start projects right after heavy rain so you'll know exactly where your drains need to be and most importantly the ground will be soft enough to easily shovel
I love your videos because you explain your work as something a person could do themselves. Once the watch your video they realize it is better to get someone like you to do it.
Yes, but once you’re informed you can pick somebody good to do the work. When you have no clue, it can be an expensive ride to nowhere.
Do you work in Michigan areas?
To Chargemoper, Videos are hypnotic.
Sweat equity is noble.
*Training and precision* are the premiums
Tools and equipment are the *expense* risk.
Hi there from Australia. I am not a professional plumber, but had plenty of experience with pipes. I can see a problem with your setup that it carries all the water from closer to the the street by the gravity into the pit, which is in the middle of the yard. Then (if sump pump works) it will be pumped back to the street by another long pipe. I envision a better design to dig much deeper well close to the street, and drainage lines coming from the property to the street. This way, you will have water collecting on another place than your yard and you might be able to use this water for irrigation if the well is deep and big enough (water tank type). If the sump pump breaks or power is gone, you will have more time to fix it as the collection point will be further away from the mid-yard in the right discharge direction.The slope of the pipes looks very small, so they will be prone for clogging (as they look like corrugated inside as well). You will not lower the water level much as well as the pipes are close to the ground, so it might be a problem for winter frost, and some fruit tree roots might die, if anybody plants them in this yard. On the positive side, the job was done quickly, and it does job for now!
Thank you. Another informative and teaching video instead of just an ad like other companies do.
Now I can make an informed decision DYI or hire.
Chuck, we followed your guidance and it saved our yard. Thank you from MO!
This is a great guy. We can see it and we can hear it, thank you.
Excellent video from Apple drains. I watched quite a few of his videos and am always impressed with his knowledge.
I'd like to see a vid in another 12mths from now to see how those tree roots have settled into that perforated black pipe.
There are many other vids here on YT that show exactly that.
I like your use of catch basin collectors.
Sometimes you use Styro Roc (easy flo) and other times gravel & perforated pipe for french drains. When should you use one or the other Chuck?
Styro Roc might be ok for shipping crap in boxes but I sure as hell wouldn't use it for a french drain, foundation footing and / or bulletproof vest!!!
Thank you so so much for all these videos! I just bought my first house and have been trying to learn how to DIY.
Not sure if anybody has mentioned this before in the comments, but please remember to call your utility companies (electric, sewer, cable) BEFORE you do any digging. They will come out and mark where those respective lines are for free (usually). You can Google that number for your particular city.
Not true. They do not locate sewer. That’s a private utility.
@@sischwartzstein5410 maybe so; the point is to know where those lines are!
Love the videos! Chuck PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE show us the results of your labor! Show us more discharge of water!!!!
I wish digging was that easy in PA. We are 75% rocks and 25% clay. Slow train a coming when digging here.lol
Not sure how I got here and I don’t own a home but I enjoyed the video.
same lol
Very cool! My yard is a lake today, now I understand what to do. And who to hire, cause I have a clue what needs doing.
I can relate! If only we could post pictures to youtube!
Even better if you connect to a receptacle of some sort- city catch basin in a stormwater system especially. daylighting the water on the street can give you icy patches in cold weather.
there arent that many cold days in tx where i live, wonder if i could just cut power to the pump on those days?
LOVE your videos, Chuck!!!
Great, simple concepts. I prefer to use PVC with holes in it, wrapped in washed #2 and geotextile fabric. I feel that it will be much longer lasting and with PVC, you can aggressively blast the inside and not worry about damaging something.
My way is absolutely more work and expense. Likely 3 x the work.
Do you have a video? I think your way would be by far better and more durable, if you provide the material list, would be nice, do they sell the PVC tube already with holes or I have to drill them?
What size of tube do you recommend?
Thanks in advance.
@@douglasflores1462 Search French drains. There is a ton of info. 4" pvc is normal. You can use the cheap schedule 1 at home depot.
Looks like Major work and BIG$$$ two good reasons why we will just live with the flood 3 months out of the year...
This world be a great one to revisit in July during rainy season.
So how do you really feel about using a Trencher:)
Great video!
Chuck too many catch basins will clog your system over time. Most definitely will cause extra maintenance. That has been my experience anyway.
Speaking of performance over time, would you post some videos of systems that you installed a few years ago in action to show us how they are still performing?
How would you remove surface water? The surface drains and catch basins double as clean outs.
Bingo... my next project.
Chuck, thanks so very much
Silt will drop through those grates very quickly and block the whole system up. Here in the UK we would wrap anything like that in a geotextile fabric, which will slowly allow the water through but prevent solids. Also, pipes that close to the surface run the risk of having a fork punch through them when somebody is digging that doesn’t know that they are there. The minimum for burying pipes over here is considered beyond the depth at which a spade would go to under normal circumstances. . You’d also never get away with jump in the water into the street, but I accept that everywhere is different.
Still, enjoyed your video and don’t mean to sound like a smarty-pants!
I agree with everything you said, if someone decides to dig a tree in the future they’ll puncture the entire drainage lines. Also jump up water to the street is horrible can’t believe he did that. I’m shocked
The styrodrain basically replaces gravel and perforated solid pipe I presume.
Personally this system will require in roughly 10 years total clean out, and much more work than other methods
If one had to put in a drainage system
It would have been much cheaper and easier to have filled those trenches almost to the top with gravels and covered the top with a form of cardboard or several layers of paper, back filled the top with very little dirt,
Water that collected anywhere along those lines would quickly drain down and flow down, Put the line to the road deeper so water would flow there, Install only one sump pump by the road to pump out any accumulation of water,
wont work for me, i can only drain upward.
Im planning to remove the sod, haul all the clay away, almost fill trench with gravel, only leaving enough for a little bit of top soil and put the sod back in
The big fabric debate.
Burrito style, top only, none?
Do you think I should get a trencher?
I'm not sure. Did he mention anything about a trenches?
Ha!
Very relaxing and pleasant speaking voice. This is the modt relaxing sounding manuel lsber really
Love the straight forward video’s but have a question for you, when you trench dive you cut at a leveled cut or do you cut with a grade for water flow?
I would grade an inch every 10 ft downhill
Jason Ruffner ty for answering my question, stay blessed and safe
We have a swamp for a backyard. I wanna do something similar to this. Thanks for the idea
Yup, I added a pool and a patio. Pool comapany had to drop 40 yards of RCA. Need less to say I now have an entire swimming pool for a yard
Nice job on your videos. Just what i needed.....thanks
Thank you for all the awesome video. What’s The best outlet/cap for a drain ending in dirt/sand area ? I’m worried a standard drain grate will get clogged when the sprinkler turn on and shift some of the dirt and sand. Thanks
Get a pop up emitter. Only opens when the discharge creates enough pressure and then closes on its own so it should reduce clogging.
How much does something like this cost? I flood in kentucky
Rick Flairs brother?
lol
WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
I keep saying this guy looks familiar and that's it! He looks like Rick Flair!
Hahaha
I would believe it!!
professional ,work ,thanks for the video
When those roots grow back, they'll be growing straight thru them pipes.
I’m sure he informed the how owners. They need to make their own decision.
no they wont they arent magic
Samon Saiyan, Selassie! Well said.
Just purchase a house. In Orange county NY and the back yard is soggy yard had a lower and upper level hold by stone retainer wall. Definitely need to budget getting a better drain system back there.
Again and again: Awsome!
When Rick Flairs dad gives you landscaping tips.
Looks like Rick Flairs Dad, sounds like Garth Algar.
What a nice guy!
Been looking for how to put a riser on these as I am raising the grade in my property. Thank you for sharing the SDR35 tip!
may I know how long had you install the plumb? And how to judge where to put the drainage? I had similar problem in my yard not only the back and the side too, which make me hard to walk on the sod around the house and the sprinkler system is hard to adjust as the normal sprinkling like 3 days in a week & 2 times each would make the backyard only watery. When I cut it to 2 times a week and it makes the front yard overly dry😢. Can you tell how is the soggy situation improved?
$15.95 for a 9” catch basin riser. $15.35 for a 2ft section 6” SDR35. Plus the time to make each riser. Both work. However, $15.95 isn’t breaking a job that cost 4 to 5 thousand to install.
The 6” catch basins cannot be modified to be rated for 4” pipe flow rates. Plus, they have a tiny sump area for debris and quickly fill allowing dirt into the pipe outlet.
The outlets for ALL catch basins 9” or bigger can be modified for 4” pipe flow rates. In fact, NDS is slowly introducing there new outlets that have the punch out. They are showing up in some stores already. The old ones , although no punch out, can be modified for 4” flow rates also. So no, they are not the same.
big wiggle the old one you have to use a dermal tool to take out the center insert of the inlet/outlet adaptor. They now have a inlet/outlet adaptor that is marked for you to punch out. Which can be done with a screw driver. Good luck getting the new insert...they are hard to find. You could go to the NDS website and get them I suppose.
I’m doing this. Excellent post. Thank you.
I have a neighbor next to me whose sump pump discharges out into the street and in the winter the water flows down and creates a large icy spot in front of my driveway. If the neighbor had trenched it out on the other side of his house to the street it would have been fine. Now I have to figure out if I need to talk to the city about it. I don't know what's permitted with a discharge to the street. Maybe he needs to bury one of 55 gallon barrels with rocks in it right at the discharge point next to the street. My point is, make sure your discharge isn't creating a problem for someone else.
Does the electrician also have to trench out to the sump pump from the back of the house?
Thanks! Will use some of this info for my own house.
Hard working man
Good job, you do a great job explaining!
Great video! Helps a lot! One question, how large of an area will this drain system pull from? In other words, if you put in one line, how far to the sides will it drain water? This is in Florida, where there is a lot of sand. Thanks.
I’ve seen other videos of his where he says a French drain will pull water in from roughly 15’ from each side
What keeps the uard drains from clogging up with dirt?
I live next to DOW chemical and their property drains on to my back yard. I don’t know what chemicals drain into my yard but it is really good stuff! What ever it is turns anything (dirt, grass clippings, gravel) to liquid in the drain pipe. I keep thinking I’ll get a bill for the service, but so far it’s free drain cleaner! It does make a pretty pink foam that washes into the street as it eats everything in the drain line. I thought this would be a problem, but turns out to be cool finger paint the kid in the neighborhood all love to play in. It smells like bubble gum and attracts al the kids like flies on poo. I did notice the kids with 6 fingers tend to make the best artwork. I was setting a lawn chair and beer cooler out to watch the kids after a good rain, however, kids stole most of my beer. I upgraded to a refrigerator with a padlock in the front yard and a bench made of two five gallon buckets and a 2 x 12. May I suggest calling DOW for free service near you?
love your video's sir! Thank you for all of your information!
What elevation do you set top of basin to grade?
Are these easy pipe or ez drain have a tendency to clug the whole of the pipe with time?
Thank you
So what happens when the catch basins fill up with dirt and start going into the drain lines. Doesn't look like those grates on top of the catch basins will hold back any dirt and sand.
Need to plant grass around them. Should also remove covers and clean as needed.
That's why you need solid pipe, the undulations in the corrugated pipe will collect sediment
Excellent video. Very detailed and informative. Have a good weekend.
Hey Chuck, if I have a 20’ run on the side of the house and want to use gravity vs pump... how do i make it work? Have a video for gravity fed and getting the right gravity feed?
Mike B that’s definitely a good weekend project. I saw some vids and they align with what you are saying. Gearing up to do it next month. Have a slight grade, which was better before me and the neighbor put in pools at the same time. Needless to say grading was never the same after resod. Thanks
@@bradmason8334 what was the end result Brad? Im about to do the same thing. Anything that set you back or caused hiccups in the process?
Hey Nathan, for me the biggest set back was procrastination
@@bradmason8334 If you can achieve a downward pitch the full run, you don't need a pump or pump basin.
@@joeshmoe7789 I agree.
Hello! I like watching your videos. Very informative and simple. We are dealing with a similar situation in our property. The builder has made a 3" drainage system right in between our property and the neighbors. It is used for both downspouts and surface water, and of course, it doesn't work. When the system is on the border and it serves both properties, is the repair cost shared? Also, shouldn't the french drain have gravel around it to prevent soil from clogging? I watched another video that you made where you filled the trench with gravel around the pipe. Granted, the pipe model was different. Which system is better? Thank you!
Water travel to the lowest spot under the ground. The key is make your house like a island Surount it is a weather trench. Unde weather trench is the french drain in that trench. Your yard will stay dry all year around. Follow gravity . We can not block water, we trench it , detour it to another direction, away from the house, toward the public drain
Good morning. If I have a neutral slope that is flat, will a 6" outlet basin still drain the water when it fills up?
Coach Toos, with a pump.
thanks for the vid chuck! makes this feel exciting :)
Is there a reason you use the corrugated pipe vs the hard smooth walled drain pipe? My past experiences with the flexible corrugated pipe is it fills up with sediment and if the ground shifts or settles you can end up with low spots where the water will not drain well. Plus standing water in the pipes can be a great breading ground for mosquitoes.
And you can step over the hard tube, while in the corrugated, it sinks if somebody steps over it.
@@douglasflores1462 Yes, sir.
good job master. how much did you charge for that job?
Why put dug up dirt back in? With sod on top, won't roots not grow? Not using geo material here?
I've gone from Ant farms to best cadence and now here lol
can you get the pop up discharge at lowes as well? can you use a pop up discharge without a sump pump? will it work with a just a french drain?
I noticed you did not put in any 3/4 to 1 1/2 rock or anything to wrap the pipe(can't remember what it is called) ?
My raised leach field is right against my foundation and we have a high water table. Should I consider adding a French drain in between the two to allow some relief of ground water because my sump pump runs frequently during the wet season?
I have a similar problem. My house has a crawl space and I do have my drainage and sump pump installed but when it's raining heavy this thing runs every 10 minutes.
All you drainage guys need to cover working with Georgia clay and ground that is full or rock that’s extremely difficult to work with. I have had my French drains redone twice since I moved in my house. I don’t think the guys could dig deep enough, like 10 inches down, to effectively lay the drainage tube and fill it with gravel and then wrap all that. I think they also stopped short of running the drain all the way to the street. Additionally, the way my lot was excavated has left me with uneven areas where water gets trapped under the sod and between the clay. Literally, the ground moves beneath my feet. I’ve tried everything. I just don’t feel like paying out another $3k or more to have the drains redone and my bad back and knees won’t have me doing all that manual labor.
Hey Chuck, any advice on a setup like this in a colder climate? I live outside Chicago and worry about the sump lines freezing up in the winter.
My neighbor in NJ has a sump pump about 36' to 42" below ground level and swears it doesn't freeze. You could have a switch inside your house to operate it manually. I also wouldn't use a pop-up at the end discharge, just run the water straight out. You should have some downward pitch at the end of the pipe so most of the water drains. You could also run 2" to the curb if the pump discharge is 1 1/4 or 1 1/2". The 2" will never fill completely, so if it did freeze, it won't burst the pipe. Put your check valve high at the top of the vertical pipe just before the 90° turn to horizontal and drill 2 or 3 very tiny (About 1/8" or a little smaller) holes in the vertical pipe so it drains back into the basin after the pump turns off.
I've never done this, but I don't see why this wouldn't work. I hope this gives you some ideas if you didn't start yet. Good Luck.
Yeh corrugated pipe don't do well here in a Chicago winter. If you're below frost line it works well but if not. Water sits in the grooves then freezes. Then dams up the water then everything freezes and doesn't work. Then in the early spring when the melt comes and early spring rains the drainage doesn't do anything until the ground warms above freezing. I know from experience lol. I deal with it every year
Love your videos. What would you recommend for areas with a lower frost line?
Great video - very informative!
Is the 1 1/2 solid outflow generally enough?
If you're asking about the pipe to the curb, the largest pipe needed is the size that connects to the pump. That's the most water the pump can discharge.
Do you glue the pipes together? I never see any connections being down.
Great work! I’d like to see more about the final results. Very satisfying to see the water flow rate. And show it working during a rain storm! Thanks!
Agreed. I’d like to see how it terminates and the water flowing once it leaves the pipe at the street
Can you provide me with a contractor in Metairie, LA
Those Apple iDrains, are they bluetooth enabled?
Tim Hull, What's that?
After Installation, do the yard continue to have standing water and the french drain allows it to drain out faster, or do it solve the water standing in the yard altogether?
Water will always rise but will have a new way to go out to the street yard should be dry or at least dry quicker
The water that puddled on top should drain almost as fast as it falls thru the catch basins or surface drains. The ground water the french drain collects in the days after the storm should be from adjoining properties. Hard to know if you really need the french drain until you give the ground time to dry out after installing surface drains. That would mean possibly digging up the same sections a year later.
Why not install 2 types of drain while the trench is open? Cost of the pipe, will need less stone smaller void. Labor is the toughest part. Not sure if thats the way to go I’m asking
Looks like my back yard we have a slope and the water settles in my yard, it looks like a muddy swamp 😅. Ive even slid down the hill in the mud
Chuck- what happens to the debris, dirt/leaves/grass clippings etc, that cover the drains or make their way to the sump basin?
Hey man thank you so much for this video. This is the type of system i believe i need. I’m in charleston sc so i know things may be different, but if you don’t mind me asking, roughly how much is a system like this with a lifter and about the same size you built? Thanks for any help with this.
Very good. Thank you sir.
How do you power the sump pump in the middle of the yard?
Nice video thank you, quick question how much it will be just the labor to layout 100 feet? Just labor?
How does that system handle freeze/thaw
Thank you very much sir, im gonna go to lowes cause we dont have Home Depooo here in Canada :)
What? Where in Canada are you??
Love your videos! Does the french drain/easy flow need to run to day light? Or, can you dig a pit, fill the pit with stone, and have it drain into the pit?
so how's the sump plug in
You should mention with this “guarantee” that it’s a southern solution. Because I’m pretty sure this is a really temp solution if applied in Canada. Lol. Frost line would change this whole deal.
He did say to check with your local municipality "up north" because of freezing.
Must've been a bad translation. 😏
what slope percentage you're using
Ground water could flow to a ravine with a stream behind our house that leads to a small lagoon with deer, geese, other wild life. Would a yard drain with catch basins and sump pumps work for our yard? We want to have trees in the back yard also so what kind of trees could be used?
Hi Henley- yes pump and basin would work, but if you have good fall to ravine, gravity drain is what you need. I don’t know what kind of trees would look good. That is your choice😃
Gravity drain is good for yard with good incline? Sounds good. TY for your posts.
If you rented that trencher, you would be advised to shim cut plywood w/ 2x4” spacers to make a second pass - NO WAY I would use shovel!!
Stay safe chuck!!!!!
Good job 👍🏻
I'd worry a bit about punching holes in some of those pipes with aeration.
How
Hey Chuck , ???
Why is there groundwater coming up ? When will the ground water stop coming up? Won't the sump pump keep sucking up the gr8ubd water . That could be endless ground water . Friends House had some sort of stream under theyr backyard. Couldn't that just keep sucking the stream water ??
Yes
Ground water is difficult.. a pump will help
Thank you for your method ,it is helpful to me. And maybe piecese of fibra covering the outlets are better .
Chuck, what kind of emitter did you use at the end of the sump pump discharge? All the Pop-ups I've found so far appear to be for 3" pipe
Would putting gravel over basin be ok ?