You apply the urethane adhesive warm, like 90F. Also, you do not spackle it down, you leave it in the peaked shape that the v cut gives from the tube and you mush it down by pressing the window into the body so you get 200% contact all the way around the window . The adhesive only has about 10 minutes open working time so that portion needs to be done quickly.
That's a great video. I'll be doing the same thing soon to my Promaster. I have 2 questions. Question #1: I noticed the Van Windows Direct RUclips installation video showed the weather stripping being installed on the inside edge, rather than the outside edge you used. Does this little detail make any difference? Question #2: For the windows next to the bed, what are your thoughts about using the large size 60"x26" window back there?
Hey! Great questions! I'll have to double check their install vid because I'm not sure what you mean by inside vs outside edge, when we cut out the hole there was only one layer of metal for us to apply it to! I'll double check though. As for bigger windows, the one thing I'd be careful of when deciding size, is there are at least 2 really large crossbeams/supports in the wall that would weaken it structurally if they were cut into! But if it doesn't reach those beams, you're probably fine!
@LKseims : I remember in the company installation video that after removing the cutout, they used a "box cutter" razor blade to remove some material between the inside and outside metal surfaces. But, you make a valid point that once you finish cutting out the window outline, you end up with only 1 metal sheet, not two. Tis' a mystery.
Thank goodness I found you. I have this same van window. Every window install I found didn't have the slider door framing like mine. ie you couldn't pop out the brace in the middle. I feel much better about going forward now.
Really should have left the bead of caulk large and in a single row in order to make better contact with the glass. That window will most likely leak if not fall out altogether due to insufficient contact with the adhesive/sealant.
Nice job. I have a Promaster 1500 and i want to do the same thing but on both sides. I want the exact window you have. Is there like an specific size or name to order that one?
Nice! On the van windows direct website you can just punch in your ram promaster info and where you want your window and they will list the options that fit your build! I believe this was the only non-opening / moving window option
Great question! The prices may change in the future but when we got it, the window + application kit was $219. Shipping was an additional $86 😬! Totalling in $305.
Hey! The back windows we actually just picked up from an RV supply store, but so far all of them, including our big slider door window, have been great! No leaks, no scratches, works great 🙌
Hi! We considered doing a sliding or t-slot window, but the price difference was fairly significant. Our window cost around $150 whereas, for example, the t-slot option cost around $570. With that realization we opted for upgrading our fan and using the back 2 smaller windows for airflow instead. Hope this answered your question!
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
So cool! You guys make me wanna get a van, maybe even a manbun! 😂
I could 1000% see you with a man bun 😂😂
😂
You apply the urethane adhesive warm, like 90F. Also, you do not spackle it down, you leave it in the peaked shape that the v cut gives from the tube and you mush it down by pressing the window into the body so you get 200% contact all the way around the window . The adhesive only has about 10 minutes open working time so that portion needs to be done quickly.
I just found your channel and wanted to say you both seem very comfortable in front of the camera. Excellent job!
Thank you!! Being on camera is definitely a new thing for us, so that's a great thing to hear :)
Been searching for a video about this specific window install! So glad I found y'alls - thank you!
Glad to help!! Good luck with your van build:)
That's a great video. I'll be doing the same thing soon to my Promaster. I have 2 questions. Question #1: I noticed the Van Windows Direct RUclips installation video showed the weather stripping being installed on the inside edge, rather than the outside edge you used. Does this little detail make any difference? Question #2: For the windows next to the bed, what are your thoughts about using the large size 60"x26" window back there?
Hey! Great questions! I'll have to double check their install vid because I'm not sure what you mean by inside vs outside edge, when we cut out the hole there was only one layer of metal for us to apply it to! I'll double check though. As for bigger windows, the one thing I'd be careful of when deciding size, is there are at least 2 really large crossbeams/supports in the wall that would weaken it structurally if they were cut into! But if it doesn't reach those beams, you're probably fine!
@LKseims : I remember in the company installation video that after removing the cutout, they used a "box cutter" razor blade to remove some material between the inside and outside metal surfaces. But, you make a valid point that once you finish cutting out the window outline, you end up with only 1 metal sheet, not two. Tis' a mystery.
Thank goodness I found you. I have this same van window. Every window install I found didn't have the slider door framing like mine. ie you couldn't pop out the brace in the middle. I feel much better about going forward now.
Glad to help 😁 Good luck on your window and the rest of your build too 🙌
how do you go through all that and not show the interior when complete???
stick the sikaflex in a bucket of hot water before using, helps it flow
So nice and clean job. WoW you guys rock !
if its too thick, heat it up. the cold makes it harder.
Can you tell me how many tubes of caulk do i need to install the window on the sliding door
Both times we used about 1.5 tubes, so I'd recommend 2. When you purchase their additional installation kit it comes with 2
@@LKseims Thank You
Very much I appreciate your te5
Heating the urethane will lower the viscosity and make it easier to pump.
Really should have left the bead of caulk large and in a single row in order to make better contact with the glass. That window will most likely leak if not fall out altogether due to insufficient contact with the adhesive/sealant.
3+ years later, no leaking and still going strong 💁♀️
Where did you get the window trim weather strip
We got ours through the windowsdirect website along with the primer/adhesive
So the company that did my window didn’t install it
My buddy took me to a shop in TJ and I got it for 5$ now my van is bitching hahaha
Nice job. I have a Promaster 1500 and i want to do the same thing but on both sides. I want the exact window you have. Is there like an specific size or name to order that one?
Nice! On the van windows direct website you can just punch in your ram promaster info and where you want your window and they will list the options that fit your build! I believe this was the only non-opening / moving window option
@@LKseims Thank you.
Do you really need that special CRL tape? Or can you just use some painters tape to hold the windows after?
We are actually using painters tape in this vid! It worked great for us:)
@@LKseims very cool! Love the video. Thanks for the reply!
@@mikerabbit87 Of course!! Good luck with your window 🙌
Great video. Thanks for the idea. What was the cost ?
Great question! The prices may change in the future but when we got it, the window + application kit was $219. Shipping was an additional $86 😬! Totalling in $305.
Are the back bunk windows Van direct window model? Now that you had windows in for a while now. Would you still recommend? Are their leaks?
Hey! The back windows we actually just picked up from an RV supply store, but so far all of them, including our big slider door window, have been great! No leaks, no scratches, works great 🙌
Curious why you chose the standard window vs. t-slot or sliding. Did you find you don’t use that feature much?
Hi! We considered doing a sliding or t-slot window, but the price difference was fairly significant. Our window cost around $150 whereas, for example, the t-slot option cost around $570.
With that realization we opted for upgrading our fan and using the back 2 smaller windows for airflow instead.
Hope this answered your question!
Not what to do with adhesive.
if the caulk is thick soak in hot water before use.
That's a great idea, we'll have to try that on future builds if the problem ever comes up again!