Great stuff! Little request - how about rope management tips on multi pitch belays, especially with half ropes. Get myself in a right tangle and especially when I have to try and stack the rope on the anchor to stop it hanging down the crag. Just an idea! Love the vids, keep em coming!
Follow up: the clove hitch you showed is really good, especially for mountaineers with thick gloves. I have used the crossed hands way with thick mittens and it works a treat. Here in Australia we always try to have a figure of eight knot in the belay system, but maybe its different in the UK.
As someone who is wanting too keep things fresh in the mind while not being able to go out before my RCI training these vids are awesome. Cheers man Also belay setup Jedi 😂😂 I’m gunna use that
Hey, Loved the video, Would you be able to show how you would set up an out of reach anchor while keeping yourself safe. The scenario I have in mind is your setting up a top rope, so as you approach the edge you're not on belay. How would you go about setting up a line to keep yourself safe (with a prussik etc) while also building the anchor near the edge. Thanks!
One way is to put the clove hitch into your carabiner while you are close to the anchor, then adjust it to loosen as you approach the edge. Doing this slowly means you are attached and safe as you approach the edge. So don't go back to the edge and then put the clove hitch in; clove hitch first, away from edge, then extend the slack to approach the edge. I hope that makes some kind of sense. #not_an_instructor
These are great techniques if you're swinging leads with your partner, but what's your preferred setup if you are leading in blocks (or perhaps you're leading everything)? Escaping a rope anchor can be tricky and is a bit time-consuming.
Fine - as long as its the last pitch , how about contra anchor on multi pitch to stop you from pullig up? (assuming youre not anchoring to bolts) thanks
Anyone shed light on this from 2004 book called Mountain Skills Training Handbook. It says "the habit of bringing 2 clove hitches back to a karabiner is to be discouraged as it loads the karabiner incorrectly and is extremely difficult to adjust". That book recommends using figures of 8 tied to the belay loop on a bite.
Haven't got the book to hand and not sure what the latest addition has but clove hitches are the "normal" way to do it. Quick to adjust being the main reason. Of course we need to watch the angle to make sure we don't 3 way load the krab, and we should probably only put two CH's in to a krab (depending on rope diameter). I will sometimes use a figure of 8 when bringing a 3rd piece back, it's an old fashioned method which is harder to adjust, but can work well.
Hi, great videos. Just started watching your different stuff. Re this one about belay with the rope: How does the second clip in to the anchors? Cheers.
Glad you like 'em! Depends a bit on the situation, but sometimes they may need to replicate the belay with fresh crabs on the same gear. If it's on a big ledge, the quicker option may be to tie off the belay plate.
Hey JB, Great video as always, when the leader leaves the belay would they clip into the belay as a runner or just try and place a piece as soon as possible after leaving the belay?
Cheers Alex! Good question! Depends a bit on the terrain... If it's at all spicy or there's no obvious easily reachable gear, I'll clip part of the belay by default.
hello mate, really enjoying your videos, this might seem like a stupid question but if your on a multi pitch and your intending to lead the next pitch, if you do a setup using your rope to anchors, once your second comes up what is he securing himself in to? any help would be most appreciated thank you
Good question! If the leader is going to lead the next pitch as well, it's much easier to set up with a sling if possible. If it isn't, then the second needs to rig up their own belay, keeping their ropes underneath the leaders setup. Same anchors, but separate krabs. Hope that helps! I'll copy and paste this on the other vid too, might be useful for someone else :)
Great video Jez! Quick question; for best practice if I have a in reach and an out of reach anchor, is there one I should be thinking about clipping into first or does it not matter?
Cheers! Depends a bit on the situation but be aware if you fix yourself in to in reach anchors first you might not be able to reach the out of reach ones. When I get to a belay whatever gear I get first I’ll normally clip my rope into, just free running, to give me some protection whilst sorting the rest.
My only worry with rope anchors is the difficulty and danger of escaping the belay in case of emergency. I generally always use slings/cordalette or some combination for this reason. I think the anchor should be independent from the rope itself. I'm no authority though, and there's still much to learn. I'd rather have a tool and not use it than need it and not have it.
As with so many things, it depends! Sometimes the rope is the best option, sometimes slings etc. Re. Escaping the system, yep, right faff! But in over 20 years of climbing I’ve only ever needed to escape the system for real once.
Hey thanks a lot for the videos. I have just finished reading a classic book from John Long on anchors and lots of time is used on stressing multidirectional anchor to withstand upward pulls (when the belayer belays the leader on the following pitch). He stresses to use gears to prevents upward pulls. You do not mention this any time in your video. What is your feedback on upward pulls and gears to prevent them?
@@JBMountainSkills thanks for the reply. The books dates back to 1993 when, correct me if I am wrong, cams stems were stiffer and were holding basically on just one direction of pull. With bending stems that problem is way reduced. My understanding is that if I would create an anchor of just passive pros (nuts, hex or tricams) then I would need a piece to prevent upward pull which could pull up the pros. If I use a modern cam with bendable stem, the issue way lower. Right?
Jez, I like your videos, but jeez, cut out the first few minutes of chatter. Sorry, I sound patronising and judgemental, but the videos could be much pithier. George, from Australia.
Don't change a thing Jez, not a thing yours are the most watchable vids on YT for me ,in no small part to your connection to your viewers.( and that is not a critism of anyone else, sorry George)
You did this through covid? I'm getting value out of it in 2023. Much appreciated.
Didn't have much else to do back then! Glad you liked it :)
Thanks, great videos to refresh my memory.
My pleasure!
Great stuff! Little request - how about rope management tips on multi pitch belays, especially with half ropes. Get myself in a right tangle and especially when I have to try and stack the rope on the anchor to stop it hanging down the crag. Just an idea! Love the vids, keep em coming!
Cheers!
Half ropes have made it on to the list!
By far the best belay tutorial on you tube.👊🏴
13:23......a belay setup jedi 😂 that's the climbing phrase of the year for me so far
Haha, I'll have to think up some others!
Follow up: the clove hitch you showed is really good, especially for mountaineers with thick gloves. I have used the crossed hands way with thick mittens and it works a treat. Here in Australia we always try to have a figure of eight knot in the belay system, but maybe its different in the UK.
Agreed, it really is the fastest 2-handed method I've seen regardless of being barehanded or gloved. Cheers!
Sling Mountain! Legend! Love the videos, really helpful.
Exactly what i was looking for! Thanks
No problem!
Just started watching these vids and must say Jez seems like such a lovely guy 😊
Very kind!
Top vids! Any MCI tips/tricks/refreshers?
Quite possibly! Give us a shout if there’s anything particularly you’d like to see.
As someone who is wanting too keep things fresh in the mind while not being able to go out before my RCI training these vids are awesome. Cheers man
Also belay setup Jedi 😂😂 I’m gunna use that
Hi Scott, glad they're of use!
Mega Vid man, keeping people sain and progressing
Cheers!
Hey, Loved the video, Would you be able to show how you would set up an out of reach anchor while keeping yourself safe. The scenario I have in mind is your setting up a top rope, so as you approach the edge you're not on belay. How would you go about setting up a line to keep yourself safe (with a prussik etc) while also building the anchor near the edge. Thanks!
One way is to put the clove hitch into your carabiner while you are close to the anchor, then adjust it to loosen as you approach the edge. Doing this slowly means you are attached and safe as you approach the edge. So don't go back to the edge and then put the clove hitch in; clove hitch first, away from edge, then extend the slack to approach the edge.
I hope that makes some kind of sense. #not_an_instructor
Another Great Video Jez!!!
Cheers bud!
These are great techniques if you're swinging leads with your partner, but what's your preferred setup if you are leading in blocks (or perhaps you're leading everything)? Escaping a rope anchor can be tricky and is a bit time-consuming.
Slings all the way for block leading if at all possible! ruclips.net/video/J_1x9oDbeh0/видео.html
Fine - as long as its the last pitch , how about contra anchor on multi pitch to stop you from pullig up? (assuming youre not anchoring to bolts) thanks
10:50, where would you prefer to put the belay device?
Steven Miller on the rope loop formed by tying in
can you put the atc directly of the rope loop to take the weight of yourself?
Sling mountain looks what 7a? happy 1 year video anniversary :)
At least!
Thanks very much :)
Anyone shed light on this from 2004 book called Mountain Skills Training Handbook. It says "the habit of bringing 2 clove hitches back to a karabiner is to be discouraged as it loads the karabiner incorrectly and is extremely difficult to adjust". That book recommends using figures of 8 tied to the belay loop on a bite.
Haven't got the book to hand and not sure what the latest addition has but clove hitches are the "normal" way to do it. Quick to adjust being the main reason. Of course we need to watch the angle to make sure we don't 3 way load the krab, and we should probably only put two CH's in to a krab (depending on rope diameter). I will sometimes use a figure of 8 when bringing a 3rd piece back, it's an old fashioned method which is harder to adjust, but can work well.
Thanks v much for the reply 👍
How would you do anchors if your on a section with bad hand a nd foot holds where you can only have 1 hand free at at time?
I'd only do it if appropriate, so I might choose a different way.
That said, I can clove hitch one handed, so it shouldn't be too hard.
Why do you clip the HMS to your rope loop and not the belay loop?
Video about it here :) ruclips.net/video/rpiPEsyKJ08/видео.html
Hi, great videos. Just started watching your different stuff. Re this one about belay with the rope: How does the second clip in to the anchors? Cheers.
Glad you like 'em! Depends a bit on the situation, but sometimes they may need to replicate the belay with fresh crabs on the same gear. If it's on a big ledge, the quicker option may be to tie off the belay plate.
@@JBMountainSkills Thank you!
Hey JB, Great video as always, when the leader leaves the belay would they clip into the belay as a runner or just try and place a piece as soon as possible after leaving the belay?
Cheers Alex! Good question! Depends a bit on the terrain... If it's at all spicy or there's no obvious easily reachable gear, I'll clip part of the belay by default.
hello mate, really enjoying your videos, this might seem like a stupid question but if your on a multi pitch and your intending to lead the next pitch, if you do a setup using your rope to anchors, once your second comes up what is he securing himself in to? any help would be most appreciated thank you
Good question! If the leader is going to lead the next pitch as well, it's much easier to set up with a sling if possible. If it isn't, then the second needs to rig up their own belay, keeping their ropes underneath the leaders setup. Same anchors, but separate krabs.
Hope that helps!
I'll copy and paste this on the other vid too, might be useful for someone else :)
Great video Jez! Quick question; for best practice if I have a in reach and an out of reach anchor, is there one I should be thinking about clipping into first or does it not matter?
Cheers!
Depends a bit on the situation but be aware if you fix yourself in to in reach anchors first you might not be able to reach the out of reach ones.
When I get to a belay whatever gear I get first I’ll normally clip my rope into, just free running, to give me some protection whilst sorting the rest.
How can I create a shelf in his method to belay from shelf ?
ruclips.net/video/JzewtTpzg_M/видео.html check out that video 👊
JB Mountain Skills Thanks JB. This was very helpful. I really like your videos. Minimalist with variations and extremely safe.
My only worry with rope anchors is the difficulty and danger of escaping the belay in case of emergency. I generally always use slings/cordalette or some combination for this reason. I think the anchor should be independent from the rope itself. I'm no authority though, and there's still much to learn. I'd rather have a tool and not use it than need it and not have it.
As with so many things, it depends! Sometimes the rope is the best option, sometimes slings etc.
Re. Escaping the system, yep, right faff! But in over 20 years of climbing I’ve only ever needed to escape the system for real once.
Hey thanks a lot for the videos. I have just finished reading a classic book from John Long on anchors and lots of time is used on stressing multidirectional anchor to withstand upward pulls (when the belayer belays the leader on the following pitch). He stresses to use gears to prevents upward pulls. You do not mention this any time in your video. What is your feedback on upward pulls and gears to prevent them?
My pleasure!
It's an absolutely valid point of course. In my experience though it very rarely seems to be an issue.
@@JBMountainSkills thanks for the reply. The books dates back to 1993 when, correct me if I am wrong, cams stems were stiffer and were holding basically on just one direction of pull. With bending stems that problem is way reduced. My understanding is that if I would create an anchor of just passive pros (nuts, hex or tricams) then I would need a piece to prevent upward pull which could pull up the pros. If I use a modern cam with bendable stem, the issue way lower. Right?
Jez, I like your videos, but jeez, cut out the first few minutes of chatter. Sorry, I sound patronising and judgemental, but the videos could be much pithier. George, from Australia.
Just my style I’m afraid George!
Don't change a thing Jez, not a thing yours are the most watchable vids on YT for me ,in no small part to your connection to your viewers.( and that is not a critism of anyone else, sorry George)