I wish I had my old well worn Harrison L5 lathe that I once cherished. It'd be on your grinding machine right now. Enjoyed your video. Top job........... Tony
I'm curious as to set-up, long ago I ground aircraft cranks, hot rods, to large diesels, then over the decades I taught myself machining by collecting. This is the first video that, as far as I can see, is holding the work as I think it should be done, correctly. I have a planer and mill, both 1x1x3 feet envelope. I would assume that the bottom of a lathe bed would be alike the centers on a crankshaft and possibly held downward without distorting the work, loading, but most other objects should only be trapped horizontally, floating, with minimal downward force. And, place shims in places not in contact with the platten. Is this generally how it is done? Just watching reminds me of the boomerang kid on Mad Max wanting the music toy.
how much does this cost to get the bed ways level? I have a 9inch southbend lathe and the saddle gets tough towards the end. wondering if its worth doing this or getting a new lathe?
I’m quite happy with my L5, L00 spindle though. Maybe yours is threaded? It came out of a high school so in some ways it was abused, badly, but it’s also very accurate. The DRO, central lube and guarding help I think. This is to say, run what ya brung, whether that’s used as is, or rebuild. Idk, cost can be prohibitive. Anyway, fellow L5 owner here just saying hi 👋
The machine is a Churchill VB slideway grinder; using a dial indicator on the bed wouldn't tell you that it is grinding flat only that the table is parallel to the ways. Periodically the machine is checked with an autocollimator to ensure it is accurate.
@@taffbatsIt depends, this machine didn't need a lot taking off so didn't warrant the additional expense, its not recommended for tailstocks, better to shim,
It would have to be flooded or it would turn to a paste and clog the wheel. This machine was not designed to use coolant. It would likely cause damage and would make a lot of mess. There are better ways at least for this type of setup to deal with swarf (chip) evacuation and heat management
I wish I had my old well worn Harrison L5 lathe that I once cherished. It'd be on your grinding machine right now. Enjoyed your video. Top job........... Tony
Making old.machines great again
fantastic workmanship! i wish i had the machine for this type of work! well done.
nice job, how much does a correction like that cost?
Very nice work. I wish I could get my lathe bed resurfaced. I not brave enough yet to attempt it. He he
I'm curious as to set-up, long ago I ground aircraft cranks, hot rods, to large diesels, then over the decades I taught myself machining by collecting. This is the first video that, as far as I can see, is holding the work as I think it should be done, correctly. I have a planer and mill, both 1x1x3 feet envelope. I would assume that the bottom of a lathe bed would be alike the centers on a crankshaft and possibly held downward without distorting the work, loading, but most other objects should only be trapped horizontally, floating, with minimal downward force. And, place shims in places not in contact with the platten. Is this generally how it is done? Just watching reminds me of the boomerang kid on Mad Max wanting the music toy.
Hi, thanks for the comment. Spot on! The work can be very sensitive to both clamping and heat distortion.
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how much does this cost to get the bed ways level? I have a 9inch southbend lathe and the saddle gets tough towards the end. wondering if its worth doing this or getting a new lathe?
Hi, nice work. Can you tell me please the type of first grinding wheel?
Hi, thanks. It is a CBN wheel.
what sort of machine regrinds the bed of that grinding machine ?
Bonjour bravo pour le travail je voulais savoir combien ca coute ?
Thank you. £900 for that job
Turned a thousand euro lathe into a 10 thousand euro lathe .. with a paint and some new cogs and bearnigs ..wow...
I don't think an M300 will fetch €10K, no matter how good it is.
mmmmmm shiny. i got a harrison, it's a bit longer in the tooth tho. don't know if it's even worth regrinding. would you bother with an old L5?
I’m quite happy with my L5, L00 spindle though. Maybe yours is threaded?
It came out of a high school so in some ways it was abused, badly, but it’s also very accurate. The DRO, central lube and guarding help I think.
This is to say, run what ya brung, whether that’s used as is, or rebuild.
Idk, cost can be prohibitive.
Anyway, fellow L5 owner here just saying hi 👋
L5 aren't a bad machine. Depends on the machine spec and what areas need attention but probably worth it.
Wow good job
Id like to see a dial indicator on the machine used to plane.
The machine is a Churchill VB slideway grinder; using a dial indicator on the bed wouldn't tell you that it is grinding flat only that the table is parallel to the ways. Periodically the machine is checked with an autocollimator to ensure it is accurate.
Is there a reason for grinding with the wheel face rather than perimeter?
Yes, that's what the machine is design for.
I have the same lathe and was thinking of a regrind. Lovely work. Where are you based
Near Burton upon Trent, Staffs
Hi Joe
I have the same lathe, i was wondering whats a rough price to have this done?
Hi, for all work shown (bed, saddle & cross slide) £750+vat
@joecorner8974 do you add turcite to make up the difference? Thinking of apron, headstock and tailstock. Or would that be on me to shim?
@@taffbatsIt depends, this machine didn't need a lot taking off so didn't warrant the additional expense, its not recommended for tailstocks, better to shim,
That is not expensive..wow.... that is cheap af
Hi Joe how can i fiind you and call you ?
Thanks
Wow
👍
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It would have to be flooded or it would turn to a paste and clog the wheel. This machine was not designed to use coolant. It would likely cause damage and would make a lot of mess. There are better ways at least for this type of setup to deal with swarf (chip) evacuation and heat management