Some excellent work, guys! I learned a ton. Great visual closeups on all the crucial details, showing how to get them right, unlike far too many videos out there that simply state how crucial they are yet rush right over them as though they are not that important. Thanks much for your hard work!
Loved this video, any chance you’ve got one cooking on how to completely go through an old carb to make sure it’s cleaned and working properly?? You guys rock thanks for the content
I’m very very veeeery happy that I found this video, it is explained as good as possible, I’m an auto mechanic and it gave me hope to rebuild and “build” these engines, I have a VXR Pro and a LS2000 with similar engines. I’d like to know if you have a video for these carburetors, I’d be more than happy if you do. Thanks and you got all my support 👊🏻👏🏻
Thanks for the kind words and we’re happy to help out! We haven’t made any Mikuni carburetor videos yet, but I’ll add it to the list. In general we usually use genuine Mikuni brand rebuild kits and just pay close attention when you take one apart and just replace one part at a time from the kit to prevent getting lost or missing anything. Don’t let it intimidate you, you’ve got this!
This video is amazing! I have a WB1 that overheated (cooling line popped off)...I suspect I'm going to have to tear into it. The only question I have is, how do you know if you need to hone the cylinder, how do you know how much to hone it, how do you match the new piston head and rings....That whole process of critical thinking and then who to talk to or what to lookup. I mean hopefully I just need to redo some gasket because of overheating? Any info you can offer would be amazing. Thanks for the video, this is already so much!
@@RSKI right lol, seems like everyone runs their lines a little different as well. Not sure what the best way is. Like I said I have never had one before.
Amazing video I have done the whole proses myself and ski has been running for 6 years now. I used sealant on the crankcase cover also used exhaust paste on the gasket to seal the exhaust manifold. Would like to know if they should have been fitted dry as you have the manual there?
The term ‘jetski’ was created and registered by Kawasaki back when they first came out with the stand-up version. That’s why everything else, including Yamaha is called a Personal Water Craft.
I mean if we want to get technical, PWC is a classification of watercraft that includes Kawasaki’s “jetski”, Yamaha’s “wave runner”, etc… but I think everyone is ok with referring to them all as Jetski’s or maybe you would prefer water scooter?
Hey! Enjoy your videos! Noticed you don't have a rubber bumper on the bottom of the crankcase that rests against the bottom of the hull. Currently rebuilding the engine, do you recommend not reinstalling(fresh water riding only)?
Hi there, no we don’t use those as they often wear on the hull and can even crack the hull from big impacts. Yamaha didn’t start using those until 2008 I think, so they are definitely not a requirement. Actually I think Yamaha only had a few bad ideas on the Superjets in their 26 years of production. One of the bad ideas was that rubber bumper. Also, if you watch our fiberglass reinforcement video, when we make the hull thicker like this, the rubber bumper no longer fits anyway.
I guess we only cut it because it is too long. Maybe if you really force it in, maybe you can get the full o-ring length installed? It’s not that big of a deal really since any leak is small, only in the water jacket, and just leaks outside of the engine. Maybe you are right? I’m not sure. But I don’t think it’s a very big deal. Mine works!
Hey man, fantastic video! Seriously I enjoyed watching this build. Was wondering what the process was for ordering everything you needed? I’ve thought about building a ski but I’m not much of a technician, just trying to learn as much as possible. Was also curious what manual that is you’re using?
Thank you!! First, the Yamaha Superjet manual we use is available for free download on our website rskiriders.com We usually make a list of parts we need and order from Highspeed Industries or JetManiac. Both are great options with great service!
I was always surprised by this too, but the outer o-ring doesn’t matter very much anyway since a leak would just be a few drips of cooling water leaking to the outside of the engine. I’ve never noticed a leak though. The important o-rings are the ones that seal the domes to the top of the cylinder, and those are one piece.
When you say hex head are you meaning socket head cap screws that you use an Allen wrench on? They’re just a m8 x 1.25 stainless cap screw if I remember right. Can find them at ace hardware usually. I order mine from McMaster Carr.
Had a few questions Would you recommend a rebuilt crank (Aftermarket bearings) by SBT/WSM or stick with re-using my seemingly good condition oem crank (not much play, and bearings spin smooth? Would you recommend the WSM pistons for a fairly rec ridden 701 with the occasional buoy course day or is it always recommended to just do proX? Also I presume always use an oem Yamaha base gasket instead of aftermarket?
This is a bit of a difficult question, but we always try to keep the OEM crank as long as the bearings are smooth. After that, we've used various manufacturers replacement crankshafts. All of them seem to work, and all of them seem to blow up eventually. (Except for my 2001 SJ which has the stock engine never rebuilt!) As far as pistons, in your application I would definitely stick with cast pistons, not forged. You don't need the extra weight and cost of forged pistons in a typical 701 in my opinion. Gaskets, I'd try to use OEM but it probably doesn't matter as much as properly preparing the surfaces. Cheers!
There is a special tool, but we don’t have one. We just use a breaker bar in the coupler to tighten it. 😂 I should also mention, don’t forget to tighten or loosen the coupler while the flywheel lock is installed. Very helpful! Much easier than trying to remove the coupler from the bare crankshaft.
Dude when your looking at the drive coupling in which direction does it rotate please as i am thinking of using this engine for a diff application cheers in advance 😁😁🤘🤘
Off the top of my head I’m not sure which way it rotates. Google search for a Superjet impeller, the blades will tell you which way the engine rotates.
Never any issue, we use oil on it and that helps it tighten further when you torque to spec. But if you’re having issues I guess try a bit more torque or some loctite
HEY RSKI! I have a 1996 Yamaha Wave Raider 1100! Useully runs great! But it stalled twice on me out there....installed new Start/Stop Switch Box & new Starter Solenoid! When I jump the Solenoid terminals it cranks over fine! Nothing when I hit the Green Start Button!!! There in No Power to the White Start/Stop Connector comming from the CDI Box!!! Any idea's?
Honest question, did you install the lanyard? Not trying to be mean, but I have to ask. 😬 If you installed a new start/stop switch and solenoid properly it sounds like it should work. There’s a chance you installed the start and stop switches backward. Install the lanyard and hit the red button to test. Green button to stop the engine if it starts.
@@RSKI YES! Lanyard in! White Connector from Switch to White Connector in Harness. Black Connector from Switch to Black Connector in Harness, you can't plug them in reversed! The problem is, (No Power out of the White Connector in the Harness which goes into the CDI Box!!
Incredible. I’m stuck though… anyone have a part number for the back washer that goes between the bendix and case? Or just send it with a random washer?
Oh, ya just call Highspeed Industries or Jetmaniac. Both will have it. I definitely wouldn’t use a random washer for that one, it’s quite thin and ground flat.
You do need to tighten the coupler. We may have missed a couple details so always follow the factory service manual. You can download the manual for free at rskiriders.com. Thanks for watching!
Hi guys I'm having troubles with ignition timing. With a strobe light hooked up, it looks far too advanced. I've made sure the key is not broken and the marks on stator plate are ok. But still no joy and backfire. Engine is in a zodiac rib. It's a 650 but looks very similar to your 701. And ideas before I burn it 🤣
If you have the flywheel cover removed it’s probably not a good idea to start the engine because the flywheel cover itself supports the bendix, so be careful with that. It sounds like you’ve checked the same things we would check with the flywheel key and stator location. It’s hard to say what the problem is without messing with it. If you do burn it, we like to use diesel for the nice slow burn. 🤣
@@RSKI thanks for tip about the cover. Is it possible the previous owner fitted parts that don't match up. Doesn't matter which way I adjust in the slot it's still well out on the strobe light. Just s thought. Now where's the matches
@@ntplumber1 I was just thinking about this, maybe there is a chance that the stator/flywheel don't match. The 62T stator needs a 62T flywheel, and the 61X stator needs a 61X flywheel to work properly (from my understanding)
Great thanks mate. Confirmed what I was thinking. Thanks for taking the time to reply, Best rebuild video by the way,not rushed over and no stupid music for distraction.
@@RSKI after conferring with my pocket Ref I am fully going with a Titanium cathoaccumulater hard piped to a large trailing Anodic Plate external to the hull. I myself am not a Fan of saltwater and Aluminium. Plaque, exclusively, forget it, eventually, obviously, pitsticks. (Protip%, vinegar for electrical. Air conditioning aluminum cleaner i.e. 180°F sodium hydroxide. Back in black) stickin it to the dJonsey.
Awesome video! Only thing I do different is fill in the gap between the seals with grease.
Last night we looked in the Yamaha manual and yes, these seals should be greased where they contact the crankshaft! Thank you for mentioning this! 🤙🤙
Inside of crank seals or inside the crank seals and in-between the double seal?
@@mxracingunlimitedltd7784 you want to pack grease between the double seals because oil isn't going to make it past the first seal.
🤙
Love the video! This is the content the stand up community has been missing for years!
Thanks for the support Paul! You guys are the reason we go through all of the work to make these videos!
No one more nicer than this man may the fourth be with y’all
Thank you, Cheers!
absolutley fabulous walk through... I hope I never need to use it but it really doesnt get much better than what you laid out... THANKS
Thank you! More to come! Let us know if you’d like to see anything specific
Some excellent work, guys! I learned a ton. Great visual closeups on all the crucial details, showing how to get them right, unlike far too many videos out there that simply state how crucial they are yet rush right over them as though they are not that important. Thanks much for your hard work!
Thank you!! More videos coming soon!
Awesome video. Getting my 1994 VXR PRO rebuilt after melting a piston, first time messing with 2 strokes.
They’re pretty simple, you’ll learn quick!
Top notch as always! You don’t have to cut the ada head oring, just pop it in the freezer to shrink it up 🤙🏼
Great idea! We’ve never tried that.
Great video!!! Ive been around superjets around 8 years and I always wanted to know the exact steps of a rebuild. Thank you guys!!!
Thank you for the support! Let us know of any topics you’d like us to cover!
@@RSKI What about proper alignment for the motor to dont damage the shaft (sorry i dont know if that is the name)
Yes, and engine alignment video will be coming soon!
I'm about to tackle a rebuild on a 95 wave runner 700. thanks for this video, make me feel a lot more confident in doing it.
Heck ya! 🤘 Use grease when installing the crank seals, we forgot to mention it. 🤣
Hi I'm Julio from Puerto Rico thanks this is the Best explanation that I have to repair a two-cycle engine thanks
Cheers! 🍻
Just found your guys channel. Ones of the best stand up channels out there!
Thank you Cameron! We have a few new videos ready to go, just finishing them up! Let us know if there are any topics you’d like us to cover! 🤘
dude thats awesome how you went so much into detail.
Thanks for watching!
Killer video boys this is what I'm talking about!!
Thank you for the support! Send us over some fresh video ideas!
Looking good in that Kagwerks swag my guy.
🤘🤘🤘
Loved this video, any chance you’ve got one cooking on how to completely go through an old carb to make sure it’s cleaned and working properly?? You guys rock thanks for the content
This is a great idea. Next time we do a carb rebuild we’ll film it!
sweet Kagwerks tee! ....I built a mold for them when they were SWORD =)
Heck ya! Love those guys
Your video are awesome, we need more videos like this step by step.
Your subscribers need tutorial and step by step videos.
Thanks Andre! What video should be next?
Very thorough, great job!
Thanks Kurt!
I’m very very veeeery happy that I found this video, it is explained as good as possible, I’m an auto mechanic and it gave me hope to rebuild and “build” these engines, I have a VXR Pro and a LS2000 with similar engines.
I’d like to know if you have a video for these carburetors, I’d be more than happy if you do. Thanks and you got all my support 👊🏻👏🏻
Thanks for the kind words and we’re happy to help out! We haven’t made any Mikuni carburetor videos yet, but I’ll add it to the list. In general we usually use genuine Mikuni brand rebuild kits and just pay close attention when you take one apart and just replace one part at a time from the kit to prevent getting lost or missing anything. Don’t let it intimidate you, you’ve got this!
This is very helpful thank you guys!
You guys are awesome! Thanks for the great content!
Thank you for the support! Let us know if you have any specific topics you’d like us to cover in future videos!
Awesome video! You make it look really easy!
Thanks Kevin!
Great video. Can't wait to do mine
Thanks Kyle!! What are you working on? SJ?
@@RSKI I'm actually building a rockered square nose. I'm about to start sanding and then primer. Going with a wrap I found online
That’s awesome! Send us pics on Instagram and we’ll reshare. 🤙
Great video bro 👍🏽
Appreciate it! Cheers!
This video is amazing! I have a WB1 that overheated (cooling line popped off)...I suspect I'm going to have to tear into it. The only question I have is, how do you know if you need to hone the cylinder, how do you know how much to hone it, how do you match the new piston head and rings....That whole process of critical thinking and then who to talk to or what to lookup. I mean hopefully I just need to redo some gasket because of overheating? Any info you can offer would be amazing. Thanks for the video, this is already so much!
Nice video! Keep doing these !
Thank you for the support! Let us know if you have ideas for future videos. 😊
Congratulations on the work, your content is wonderful, do you have the link to buy this head.
Great video guys!!
Thank you! Stay tuned, more to come!!
Can you do a b pipe info video, cooling lines setup and tuning instructions/tips. Just got one and plan on using the stock head for now
Yes. I have never seen a tutorial on this it would be invaluable
This is a great idea for multiple reasons. One of the reasons is it will remind me how to do it each time. hahaha!
@@RSKI right lol, seems like everyone runs their lines a little different as well. Not sure what the best way is. Like I said I have never had one before.
Your an awesome teacher did you learn how to rebuild on your own?
We learned over time, this engine is really simple and you can learn it too!
Amazing video I have done the whole proses myself and ski has been running for 6 years now.
I used sealant on the crankcase cover also used exhaust paste on the gasket to seal the exhaust manifold.
Would like to know if they should have been fitted dry as you have the manual there?
Hi Nigel, you can download the service manual for free at rskiriders.com in the downloads section!
The term ‘jetski’ was created and registered by Kawasaki back when they first came out with the stand-up version. That’s why everything else, including Yamaha is called a Personal Water Craft.
I mean if we want to get technical, PWC is a classification of watercraft that includes Kawasaki’s “jetski”, Yamaha’s “wave runner”, etc… but I think everyone is ok with referring to them all as Jetski’s or maybe you would prefer water scooter?
@@RSKI naw it’s ok. I call everything a xerox as well.
@@RSKIboatercycle
How do you guys clean your cylinder head for good surface for new gaskets? Any tricks?
Thanks very helpful the video i finally learn how to time the engine ,but didn't see the mixing part of the oil and gas ?
What happened ????
Thanks you, This engine is still in my ski and running great ever since this rebuild!
Hey! Enjoy your videos! Noticed you don't have a rubber bumper on the bottom of the crankcase that rests against the bottom of the hull. Currently rebuilding the engine, do you recommend not reinstalling(fresh water riding only)?
Hi there, no we don’t use those as they often wear on the hull and can even crack the hull from big impacts. Yamaha didn’t start using those until 2008 I think, so they are definitely not a requirement. Actually I think Yamaha only had a few bad ideas on the Superjets in their 26 years of production. One of the bad ideas was that rubber bumper. Also, if you watch our fiberglass reinforcement video, when we make the hull thicker like this, the rubber bumper no longer fits anyway.
Nice vidéo as Always !
I have read that WE dont whant to cut thé o ring of thé ada head, what do you think about that, as i Saw you cut it!
Thankssss
I guess we only cut it because it is too long. Maybe if you really force it in, maybe you can get the full o-ring length installed? It’s not that big of a deal really since any leak is small, only in the water jacket, and just leaks outside of the engine. Maybe you are right? I’m not sure. But I don’t think it’s a very big deal. Mine works!
Good video, where did you get the service manual?
rskiriders.com
Are rebuild kits pretty easy to find these days? What’s a reputable mid-shaft rebuild service?
Highspeed industries makes it easy. Send them a message and they will get you the parts you need.
Did you pre oil the crank?ok sorry didn't hear you say it was
Yep, and grease the crank seals! 🤘
Hey man, fantastic video! Seriously I enjoyed watching this build. Was wondering what the process was for ordering everything you needed? I’ve thought about building a ski but I’m not much of a technician, just trying to learn as much as possible. Was also curious what manual that is you’re using?
Thank you!! First, the Yamaha Superjet manual we use is available for free download on our website rskiriders.com We usually make a list of parts we need and order from Highspeed Industries or JetManiac. Both are great options with great service!
The oring for the head on the water jacket part they don’t come with the correct oring when you cut the oring they don’t leak?
I was always surprised by this too, but the outer o-ring doesn’t matter very much anyway since a leak would just be a few drips of cooling water leaking to the outside of the engine. I’ve never noticed a leak though. The important o-rings are the ones that seal the domes to the top of the cylinder, and those are one piece.
Great video!! Where did you get the SS Hex Head Intake manifold Bolts from? Looks nicer and is sometimes easier in tight spots..
When you say hex head are you meaning socket head cap screws that you use an Allen wrench on? They’re just a m8 x 1.25 stainless cap screw if I remember right. Can find them at ace hardware usually. I order mine from McMaster Carr.
Had a few questions
Would you recommend a rebuilt crank (Aftermarket bearings) by SBT/WSM or stick with re-using my seemingly good condition oem crank (not much play, and bearings spin smooth?
Would you recommend the WSM pistons for a fairly rec ridden 701 with the occasional buoy course day or is it always recommended to just do proX?
Also I presume always use an oem Yamaha base gasket instead of aftermarket?
This is a bit of a difficult question, but we always try to keep the OEM crank as long as the bearings are smooth. After that, we've used various manufacturers replacement crankshafts. All of them seem to work, and all of them seem to blow up eventually. (Except for my 2001 SJ which has the stock engine never rebuilt!)
As far as pistons, in your application I would definitely stick with cast pistons, not forged. You don't need the extra weight and cost of forged pistons in a typical 701 in my opinion.
Gaskets, I'd try to use OEM but it probably doesn't matter as much as properly preparing the surfaces.
Cheers!
Do you use special tool for the engine coupler or only tight by hand ? Thanks for sharing
There is a special tool, but we don’t have one. We just use a breaker bar in the coupler to tighten it. 😂 I should also mention, don’t forget to tighten or loosen the coupler while the flywheel lock is installed. Very helpful! Much easier than trying to remove the coupler from the bare crankshaft.
@@RSKI thanks for the tips. 👍 I will try to get it out !
Dude when your looking at the drive coupling in which direction does it rotate please as i am thinking of using this engine for a diff application cheers in advance 😁😁🤘🤘
Off the top of my head I’m not sure which way it rotates. Google search for a Superjet impeller, the blades will tell you which way the engine rotates.
Have you had an issue with the flywheel bolt backing out? I noticed alot of manufacturers use Loctite. Yamaha seems to be the only one using oil
Never any issue, we use oil on it and that helps it tighten further when you torque to spec. But if you’re having issues I guess try a bit more torque or some loctite
@@RSKI putting a 701 together soon. Just wasn’t sure. Will definitely follow the manual. Thanks!!!!
The service manual on your website, what years is it for?
It’s close enough to use for all of the round nose Superjets. 1996-2020
Awesome thanks!!
Where can I get the wrench with the funny angle?
We dig through the used wrench bins at the pawn shop. 😂
Is there a way to tell a 650 from a 701? Thanks
Were the cylinders walls honed already?
Freshly bored and honed cylinder by highspeed industries.
HEY RSKI! I have a 1996 Yamaha Wave Raider 1100! Useully runs great! But it stalled twice on me out there....installed new Start/Stop Switch Box & new Starter Solenoid! When I jump the Solenoid terminals it cranks over fine! Nothing when I hit the Green Start Button!!! There in No Power to the White Start/Stop Connector comming from the CDI Box!!!
Any idea's?
Honest question, did you install the lanyard? Not trying to be mean, but I have to ask. 😬 If you installed a new start/stop switch and solenoid properly it sounds like it should work. There’s a chance you installed the start and stop switches backward. Install the lanyard and hit the red button to test. Green button to stop the engine if it starts.
@@RSKI YES! Lanyard in! White Connector from Switch to White Connector in Harness. Black Connector from Switch to Black Connector in Harness, you can't plug them in reversed! The problem is, (No Power out of the White Connector in the Harness which goes into the CDI Box!!
I didn’t mean plug them in backwards. I mean install them in the switch housing on the handlebars backwards.
Ya, there has to be 12v coming out of the ebox going up to your start/stop switch.
@@RSKI I saw on RUclips a guy took an e-box from a Chinese scooter and wired it to his jet ski and got it to run I wish I could be that lucky!
Incredible. I’m stuck though… anyone have a part number for the back washer that goes between the bendix and case? Or just send it with a random washer?
You can order the washers from Highspeed Industries or Jetmaniac. Use one on each side of the spring.
@@RSKI no I’m talking about the other washer, the one BEHIND the bendix.
@@RSKI refer to 20:55 to see what I’m talking about. The big washer
Oh, ya just call Highspeed Industries or Jetmaniac. Both will have it. I definitely wouldn’t use a random washer for that one, it’s quite thin and ground flat.
@@RSKI will do. Thanks so much
Trying to find the Loctite 572 stick you used but can't seem to locate it. Is there a specific model number for that product?
I think it might be 268.
Cześć napisz do czego idzie biało czerwony kabel z prądnicy
You don’t need to tighten coupler?
You do need to tighten the coupler. We may have missed a couple details so always follow the factory service manual. You can download the manual for free at rskiriders.com. Thanks for watching!
hi awesome video where you buy a rebuit kit ?? thanks
Ours is purchased from Highspeed Industries.
What 2 stroke oil are you running for this motor?
We typically run Amsoil Dominator in our engines. 50:1
@@RSKI thanks! That’s what I’ve been running at 40:1 though
40:1 is fine too 🙂
Showwwwwwwwww
Do I need to add red locktite to all the mani bolts or just those 2? Is there a specific torque spec for the mani bolts?
Hi Bryan, download the Superjet service manual pdf at rskiriders.com it answers all of your questions.
What size domes do you run around and why?
I think we have 35cc domes and around 180-185psi compression. This way we can run ethanol free pump gas. Saving a lot of money vs race fuel.
Where did you get that lowered hood super sick I need one.
Custom made 🤘🤘
@@RSKI that is awesome would love to buy one.
Unfortunately the guy that made them for us is no longer making any Jetski parts. :(
How much hp does this thing have?
Stock is 73. 🤙
Hi guys I'm having troubles with ignition timing.
With a strobe light hooked up, it looks far too advanced.
I've made sure the key is not broken and the marks on stator plate are ok.
But still no joy and backfire.
Engine is in a zodiac rib.
It's a 650 but looks very similar to your 701.
And ideas before I burn it 🤣
If you have the flywheel cover removed it’s probably not a good idea to start the engine because the flywheel cover itself supports the bendix, so be careful with that. It sounds like you’ve checked the same things we would check with the flywheel key and stator location. It’s hard to say what the problem is without messing with it. If you do burn it, we like to use diesel for the nice slow burn. 🤣
@@RSKI thanks for tip about the cover.
Is it possible the previous owner fitted parts that don't match up.
Doesn't matter which way I adjust in the slot it's still well out on the strobe light.
Just s thought.
Now where's the matches
Is it an oem cdi?
@@ntplumber1 I was just thinking about this, maybe there is a chance that the stator/flywheel don't match. The 62T stator needs a 62T flywheel, and the 61X stator needs a 61X flywheel to work properly (from my understanding)
Great thanks mate.
Confirmed what I was thinking.
Thanks for taking the time to reply,
Best rebuild video by the way,not rushed over and no stupid music for distraction.
ดีมาก
Sorry I can’t speak Thai 😆
+5?
What’s that?
What a horrible place to locate an Anode, probably gonna double tap me head with a whee bit more zinc stick. Salt Life.
You should invent a zinc cylinder head. That would solve it! 🤣
@@RSKI after conferring with my pocket Ref I am fully going with a Titanium cathoaccumulater hard piped to a large trailing Anodic Plate external to the hull. I myself am not a Fan of saltwater and Aluminium. Plaque, exclusively, forget it, eventually, obviously, pitsticks. (Protip%, vinegar for electrical. Air conditioning aluminum cleaner i.e. 180°F sodium hydroxide. Back in black) stickin it to the dJonsey.
I think you’re spot on.
Congratulations on the work, your content is wonderful, do you have the link to buy this head.
We usually use ADA Racing girdled cylinder head. You can find it at several resellers.