Yeah that's all very well doing the job without removing the various brake associated bits & pieces etc but I've noticed with the majority of these types of brake servicing jobs that the sourounding area is usually or often very dirty & by rights should be cleaned up period before the installation of any new or replacement parts. Further one aspect I've noticed with so many DIY mechanics in these on-line videos is their quite obvious reluctance to want to get into cleaning the area of contention & especially around brakes etc, etc!! Most guys just take out the old stuff & simply exchange with something new & don't give it a second thought about even a mere superficial clean-up before installing any new parts etc.!! (ugh) Respectfully & in this particular video the brake area shown could most certainly have done with having some time spent on it & a bit of a clean-up before starting!! I personally always clean first & would never have simply installed a brand new brake cylinder & then to have dirty brake fluid flushed through it to merely clean & flush the system out!! That sounds back the bloody front to me?? I was taught the old school way & it has served me well & I won't change because people appear to like my standard of workmanship!! Therefore wasting a small amount of brake fluid is a lot cheaper than having to do the job again sooner than expected!!
Wow! So many people know more! Thanks Kenny for taking your time to teach people who don't know. I have also been wrenching for about 50 years but never am too smart to learn. I am also from upstate NY, born in peekskill, raised in Putnam valley. I really enjoy your videos bud, thanks for your time.
I don't know how RUclips is just now showing me your stuff, but I'm watching all your old videos and I love the way you share what you're thinking while you work through problems. It's a real treat to get to watch over your shoulder and learn. Thanks for sharing your expertise, I'm sure it's a lot of work to put videos together.
Good video Ken. Changed quite a few wheel cylinders in my day and never thought to change them withou fully tearing down the brake shoe assembly. Excellent. Taught an old dog a new trick. Lol
Brake fluid flush, I preasure bleed the master and the lines. I took a cap for the master which I had spare drilled a hole in it and inserted a barbed 90 degree fetting. Then connected it up to the preasure bleeder set up. I then did one wheel at a time. Usually takes a quart or so, I alwasy purchase a min of two quarts to do a flush so I do not run out. Also I put never sieze on the sylander bolts and the brake line fitting as well as the bleeder screw. Sometimes i use a pipe sealant called blue block ment for threaded pipe fittings . Makes it so much easier esp in the rust belt areas. Must check the brake lines, I lost my brakes one day comming off the gothels bridge in NYC had to drive in low range to a service station. When I got home replaced all the brake lines and the fuel lines Rustoleum prime coat all the lines and two coats of rustoleum black.
And now I know for sure that you are located in a Southern State. You could NEVER replace a wheel brake cylinder without breaking everything your wrench touches here in the Upstate New York rustbelt.
Funny enough when I started my apprentice and I was totally green, the mechanic teaching me pulled the rubber dust cover back and fluid starting to come out just like the video. Straight away I thought no "YOU" just caused that to happen as there was no fluid before. Then he explained the fluid had already passed the seals and was just hiding in the dust cover side. To this day every time I pull the dust cover back . I think on that day with a smile😊
I live in southern Wisconsin and I never had the main brake line to the wheel cylinders break loose that easily. I always had to unbolt the wheel cylinders and use vise grips to twist the wheel cylinders off the brake lines.
At 3:47 you say you always like to FIRST break the line free by hitting the hard line nut on the backside. Yes...correct.... IF the hard line that immediately touches the system behind the cylinder is FREE and doesn't want to rotate with the nut. Otherwise you risk breaking that hard line. If you sense that the nut is stuck on the line and you will twist the line.....then indeed take off the mounting screw of the cylinder....pull the cylinder "Toward you" a bit ( toward the outside direction of the car)...and TWIST the cylinder off WHILE holding the nut behind with a wrench. Much less chance of twisting and breaking the hard line behind. Cheers. Another thing....for some cars...maybe spin the adjuster wheel so that it spreads the shoes apart as far as it will go.......this will make it easier getting the clearance you need to get the cylinder out from the "tabs" of the backside of the shoes. No need to force the pistons "in" on a dry cylinder as working a new cylinder by pressing-in the plungers can ruin the seals on a new unit.
Good trick on taking the cylinder out without having to disassemble the whole brake, saves a ton if time. Having lived in the land of ice and salt for all of my life that I can remember, I've had to deal with rusted brake lines for most of my life. A mechanic friend of mine told me about a trick to keep from twisting off brake lines. The trick is to tighten them just a touch before you try an take them off. Tightening them tends to break the rust that is between the fitting and the like without breaking loose all at once and twisting the line. You also may have to put some penetrating oil in them and wiggle the fitting back and forth to break up the trust.
thanks for the video, just subscribed. I have a 92 tempo v6, when i go to start my car i have nice brake petal, when i turn the key to start the car the petal goes to the floor I pump it a couple times i have a little petal.
Nice on the bleeding short cut. Techs that leave the lines hanging open with the master cap on cause themselves a lot of heartache. I've never tried the pedal pressing but will. I've always just removed the top of the master, removed the line at the wheel I'm working at, cap it off quick with a rubber stopper, and then after install just leave the bleeder open with master full/cap off. Gravity takes care of the rest while I'm cleaning my tools up and storing them.
Nowdays nobody repair those brake cylinders anymore (or other stuff for that mattes). When I was a kid, it was common, and I did, to put new seals in, instead of installing new cylinders.😀
ditto! I rebuilt plenty of them in the past, but the price got so cheap it wasn't worth rebuilding them anymore. also the metal used seems far worse and have severe pitting issues in the middle bottom and of course due to lack of adjustment, when you adjust them or replace shoes it pushes the old pistons in deep to where the severe pitting is and "she's a leaker". the pitting is well beyond a simple honing, which used to work great.
Yeah well if you were living in New Zealand you'd soon want to re-use & refurbish any parts that were reusable as our prices for mere basic spares is absolutely horrendous. So its not all about merely throwing parts away & going out to simply buy new replacement ones as you'd soon find out!! We operate an efficient business rip-off system in this country & the idea being to see how much you can rip the client off before he begins to squeal like the proverbial fat pig!!
Brake fluid should be changed every 2 years. It used to be it would last for a few years, but the newer stuff goes off very quickly and your brakes go bad. Its OK for us in the UK as the yearly MOT safety check will pick that up.
Thank you, Sir!! That was a great in explaining what to expect from an engine regarding a cold start up. Plus that noise from a strut; I'm probably having the same problem on a 2014 Murano. ..may have hit a good ole fashion Canadian winter road crater..
well I have learned a new way to change wheel cylinders. that cool my 2000 Dodge Dakota wheel cylinders need to be change and I have putting it off for years. love short cuts thanks john
Thanks Kenny for the excellent information. Replacing the rear wheel brake cylinders back in the day would have made my life/job so much easier. I evacuated the master cylinder with a turkey baster before a complete brake flush, including all four tires. Especially if the fluid was in a blackened deteriorated state. I do like your method and will definitely use it if I ever do this on rear drums/ brake cylinders in the future. As always thanks for your time and education.....Pete
Ken as you know that boot is also to keep dirt away from that piston too. Once the piston seal is shot and leaks it's time to change the cylinder. I would have you change both sides just because that's the way I like to do things. If one has failed it's a good possibility the other will fail eventually. Like you know that's called good maintenance.
You're right to change both sides at the same time. (Kenny did say he had just done the other side -- 3:30) As you said, if one failed the other's likely close behind, and also they could handle a little differently if you have new hardware on one side only. Wouldn't want different braking power on one side. Good mechanics, both of you.
I have to say your doing well with making these videos. Also that was awesome explaining the cold air intake deal. I have replaced several in different rides. Well done dude
When it comes to all Hondas I highly recommend trans flush or the transmission won’t last long at all or torque converter shudders begin to happen or they just burn up
I did a brake fluid flush in my truck the other day. The thing that bothered me was the coating inside the container that made it still look dirty. I removed it from the master cylinder and filled it with Simple Green. I let it soak for 10 minutes then shook it around for a couple minutes. After that, it was like new again.
those shoes looked pretty new/full thickness lining. I'm betting someone replaced them and adjusted it up. It's been my finding as of 30 years ago, the wheel cylinders always get moisture in them at center bottom and rust internally, then you push the pistons back into the rusted rough area once you either adjust the shoes or do any work. I always replace wheel cylinders as part of any drum brake job, I got burnt a few times not changing them. of course back then, it was common to rebuild them, complete with honing them out right on the vehicle(lol), the metal seemed way better quality then and just a light honing and new rubber was about all that was needed.
Nice work. I used to leave the old cyl in place with no bolts and the line finger tight, then when I was ready with the new one I would just quickly swap them and screw the line on. you lose a few drips and no brake pedal presser. I've never seen anyone put any pressure to the pedal while opening the system, unless bleeding. but I have seen people pinch the flex-hose, and that would not be correct.
Hi.. i Always enjoy watching you working on cars.. in this last video i noticed that sucking the oil from the master cylinder reservoir stirred all the gunk that coverd the plastic container... isn`t this dangerous?? how about removing the reservoir and cleaning it whith some brake cleaner.... is it feasable? thanks and keep wrenching..
Thank you for sharing that information. But how did you know that I was going to be changing my rear wheel cylinder on my 94 D R 2500 and maybe also on my D C700
that little trick of depressing the pedal is something I've heard about but have not tried. Next brake job, I will be trying because I am usually alone and don't have (tried them with problems) bleeder system. The brake fluid flush unit would be nice if I had need (doing brake work on the side) to invest.
Oh, I remember drum brakes, darn nearly killed me too. My 1st car was an LC Tarana (Australia) had drums all around. The driver side front brake used to lock up extremely easily, especially in the wet & try to drag me over into on coming traffic. I have spent many hours checking & servicing the brakes, trying to discover the cause, to no avail. Those brakes worked fantastic though. desperation, I put the front end on stands and pulled the brakes down yet again, only thins time I did both brakes at the same time. So for the 1st time
I have the same Miti-Vac unit, have you ever had an issue with the container collapsing? Found out the hard way, that if suck out engine oil that is too hot, it will destroy the housing? Never thought about how hot engine oil is, until it deformed the plastic container? Just a heads up, so you don't destroy your unit, also, by accident?
Wheel cylinders are very obsolete on most vehicles now. Toyota Tacoma still uses drum brakes in the rear, Toyota says they will never switch over to rear disc on the Tacoma truck.
I have noticed on RUclips right handed people seldom use left hand. I practiced until I can use either. I did carpentry for a while noticed the problems carpenters had nailing left handed if they were right handed even with nail guns. Now I use either without problems
@@jimharper6073 takes practice took me a long time. but almost everything i can do with either hand. i have seen right handed men that couldn't use a impact wrench with their left hand.
I noticed that to on some g m cars but they never leaked after brake job in n y winter brake job will head every thing they don’t want big bill before car rots in half
I don't think it would have made much difference as he was not able to remove all the old fluid from the master cylinder, flushing the entire system would have done a better job, but maybe the customer didn't want to pay for that.
He said he owns the car. You can remove the reservoir fluid with a baster, put clean fluid in, and then remove the brake line above a pan. Keep the reservoir filled, and put the new part on when clean fluid is coming out. We've always called it gravity bleed. When he depressed the pedal, he blocks the compensating port to stop the gravity flow. He also has the brake lights trying to melt the lenses. And a quarter amp and more, battery draw. To each his own, but I don't do it that way.
@@dannylinc6247 I don't think the brake lights would have been on unless the ignition had been left on, and yes it would have been better if he had changed the bake fluid as he was selling the car.
@@johnbeckett2624 what car can you sit in, step on the brake, and the brake lights don't work? What car can you coast in neutral or push and when the brake is depressed, have no brake lights? BOO circuit, (brake on/off) is hot at all times and the BOO switch on the pedal causes brake lights to illuminate with a battery connected, that's not dead. I'm not saying there's no car ever wired the way you suggest, I'm just saying it's never presented itself in my experience. I believe it's a standard by which cars are designed in my lifetime. It's easy to draw out the old fluid, fill it with new, then change the part after a gravity bleed occurs while you're getting the old part off and the new one through the backing plate. It's how technicians do things once they have had teaching by journeymen, where I come from.
The reason that wheel cylinder started leaking in the first place was almost certainly due to rust pitting because this owner clearly never flushed his brake fluid. It's supposed to look like lemonade, not coffee! By the time it gets that dark, the entire brake system is seriously degraded and needs to be replaced. The other wheel will be next, followed by the master cylinder, at which time the driver may have coffee-colored underwear too. Regular DOT3 or DOT4 fluid should be flushed about every 3 years, BEFORE it changes color to indicate system damage from corrosion due to water absorption.
put plastic tube on bleeder line into plastic bottle. you will see bubbles. also, since the fluid is so BLACK, need to bleed entire system with better quality fluid.
...great DIY video Kenny.....content and video and audio quality outstanding.....question: would a wheel cylinder rebuild kit be worth the trouble?.....not much money saved?... 🙂
Thank you. I don't see any savings in rebuilding a wheel cylinder nowadays, honestly. They are quite inexpensive . Last time I rebuilt a wheel cylinder was in the early 80s lol !! I think it's harder to find a kit than the actual cylinder
That brake fluid was way past it's best and contaminated. For the time you spent faffy around emptying the master cylinder to replace the black gunge you took out, a further 20 mins you could have bled all 4 hubs, replaced the fluid with new and made the vehicle stop better and safer.
Never ceases to amaze me how cheap and lying the car company reps are. Would not admit that the wheel cylinders are failed when fluid goes past the seal into the inspection boot cover. I'll not go to that car company for my next car that's for sure.
Something tells me that service rep wouldn't last long in today's law suit driven economy. Really into customer satisfaction? The consumer will always blame you.
Come on Kenny! You don't recommend flushes? Really so never flush the transmission fluid? You think it will be better with original fluid for 200000 miles?
Absolutely. My Caravan has 240k with the original fluid and filter. My 05 Ram 1500 has 235K , original fluid and filter. My mom's Toyota has 300K , original fluid . My Dad's Dodge Omni (of all things) , had almost 400K miles , never serviced.
@Phil Spear of course there is. My one explorer has 207000 moles on it, flush it every 25000 miles. I guess I prefer preventive maintenance. I also change oil in my 3 vehicles every 2500 miles and pull my valve covers off and looks brand new
If fluid as been change every on a consistent intervals it's ok but never change old dirty fluid it has all the clutch grit in it which helps it keep from slipping put new in it and it will start slipping
Wow Kenny! Ok am 73 and did not think of this...I have always removed all springs and shoes! Many thanks
Yeah that's all very well doing the job without removing the various brake associated bits & pieces etc but I've noticed with the majority of these types of brake servicing jobs that the sourounding area is usually or often very dirty & by rights should be cleaned up period before the installation of any new or replacement parts. Further one aspect I've noticed with so many DIY mechanics in these on-line videos is their quite obvious reluctance to want to get into cleaning the area of contention & especially around brakes etc, etc!! Most guys just take out the old stuff & simply exchange with something new & don't give it a second thought about even a mere superficial clean-up before installing any new parts etc.!! (ugh) Respectfully & in this particular video the brake area shown could most certainly have done with having some time spent on it & a bit of a clean-up before starting!! I personally always clean first & would never have simply installed a brand new brake cylinder & then to have dirty brake fluid flushed through it to merely clean & flush the system out!! That sounds back the bloody front to me?? I was taught the old school way & it has served me well & I won't change because people appear to like my standard of workmanship!! Therefore wasting a small amount of brake fluid is a lot cheaper than having to do the job again sooner than expected!!
Wow! So many people know more! Thanks Kenny for taking your time to teach people who don't know. I have also been wrenching for about 50 years but never am too smart to learn. I am also from upstate NY, born in peekskill, raised in Putnam valley. I really enjoy your videos bud, thanks for your time.
I don't know how RUclips is just now showing me your stuff, but I'm watching all your old videos and I love the way you share what you're thinking while you work through problems. It's a real treat to get to watch over your shoulder and learn. Thanks for sharing your expertise, I'm sure it's a lot of work to put videos together.
Good video Ken. Changed quite a few wheel cylinders in my day and never thought to change them withou fully tearing down the brake shoe assembly. Excellent. Taught an old dog a new trick. Lol
Me too but the ones Iusually got had leaked so bad the shoes were toast.
video is spot on I can see everything great camera work kenny
Brake fluid flush, I preasure bleed the master and the lines. I took a cap for the master which I had spare drilled a hole in it and inserted a barbed 90 degree fetting. Then connected it up to the preasure bleeder set up. I then did one wheel at a time. Usually takes a quart or so, I alwasy purchase a min of two quarts to do a flush so I do not run out. Also I put never sieze on the sylander bolts and the brake line fitting as well as the bleeder screw. Sometimes i use a pipe sealant called blue block ment for threaded pipe fittings . Makes it so much easier esp in the rust belt areas. Must check the brake lines, I lost my brakes one day comming off the gothels bridge in NYC had to drive in low range to a service station. When I got home replaced all the brake lines and the fuel lines Rustoleum prime coat all the lines and two coats of rustoleum black.
And now I know for sure that you are located in a Southern State. You could NEVER replace a wheel brake cylinder without breaking everything your wrench touches here in the Upstate New York rustbelt.
Funny enough when I started my apprentice and I was totally green, the mechanic teaching me pulled the rubber dust cover back and fluid starting to come out just like the video. Straight away I thought no "YOU" just caused that to happen as there was no fluid before. Then he explained the fluid had already passed the seals and was just hiding in the dust cover side. To this day every time I pull the dust cover back . I think on that day with a smile😊
I live in southern Wisconsin and I never had the main brake line to the wheel cylinders break loose that easily. I always had to unbolt the wheel cylinders and use vise grips to twist the wheel cylinders off the brake lines.
At 3:47 you say you always like to FIRST break the line free by hitting the hard line nut on the backside. Yes...correct.... IF the hard line that immediately touches the system behind the cylinder is FREE and doesn't want to rotate with the nut. Otherwise you risk breaking that hard line. If you sense that the nut is stuck on the line and you will twist the line.....then indeed take off the mounting screw of the cylinder....pull the cylinder "Toward you" a bit ( toward the outside direction of the car)...and TWIST the cylinder off WHILE holding the nut behind with a wrench. Much less chance of twisting and breaking the hard line behind. Cheers. Another thing....for some cars...maybe spin the adjuster wheel so that it spreads the shoes apart as far as it will go.......this will make it easier getting the clearance you need to get the cylinder out from the "tabs" of the backside of the shoes. No need to force the pistons "in" on a dry cylinder as working a new cylinder by pressing-in the plungers can ruin the seals on a new unit.
Good trick on taking the cylinder out without having to disassemble the whole brake, saves a ton if time. Having lived in the land of ice and salt for all of my life that I can remember, I've had to deal with rusted brake lines for most of my life. A mechanic friend of mine told me about a trick to keep from twisting off brake lines. The trick is to tighten them just a touch before you try an take them off. Tightening them tends to break the rust that is between the fitting and the like without breaking loose all at once and twisting the line. You also may have to put some penetrating oil in them and wiggle the fitting back and forth to break up the trust.
thanks for the video, just subscribed. I have a 92 tempo v6, when i go to start my car i have nice brake petal, when i turn the key to start the car the petal goes to the floor I pump it a couple times i have a little petal.
Nice on the bleeding short cut. Techs that leave the lines hanging open with the master cap on cause themselves a lot of heartache. I've never tried the pedal pressing but will. I've always just removed the top of the master, removed the line at the wheel I'm working at, cap it off quick with a rubber stopper, and then after install just leave the bleeder open with master full/cap off. Gravity takes care of the rest while I'm cleaning my tools up and storing them.
Nowdays nobody repair those brake cylinders anymore (or other stuff for that mattes). When I was a kid, it was common, and I did, to put new seals in, instead of installing new cylinders.😀
@thomasskogh800, man I remember that also, still have my grandad’s brake cylinder hone LOL
ditto! I rebuilt plenty of them in the past, but the price got so cheap it wasn't worth rebuilding them anymore. also the metal used seems far worse and have severe pitting issues in the middle bottom and of course due to lack of adjustment, when you adjust them or replace shoes it pushes the old pistons in deep to where the severe pitting is and "she's a leaker". the pitting is well beyond a simple honing, which used to work great.
Yeah well if you were living in New Zealand you'd soon want to re-use & refurbish any parts that were reusable as our prices for mere basic spares is absolutely horrendous. So its not all about merely throwing parts away & going out to simply buy new replacement ones as you'd soon find out!! We operate an efficient business rip-off system in this country & the idea being to see how much you can rip the client off before he begins to squeal like the proverbial fat pig!!
Dang Ken, never thought about doing it your way , thanks for sharing.
Getting ready to do mine. Thanks!
Brake fluid should be changed every 2 years.
It used to be it would last for a few years, but the newer stuff goes off very quickly and your brakes go bad.
Its OK for us in the UK as the yearly MOT safety check will pick that up.
Enjoyed the video Kenny great job as always.
Thank you, Sir!! That was a great in explaining what to expect from an engine regarding a cold start up. Plus that noise from a strut; I'm probably having the same problem on a 2014 Murano. ..may have hit a good ole fashion Canadian winter road crater..
well I have learned a new way to change wheel cylinders. that cool my 2000 Dodge Dakota wheel cylinders need to be change and I have putting it off for years. love short cuts thanks
john
Hello Kenny. Another video well done with multiple tips to help people that do this.
Great vid
Thanks Kenny for the excellent information. Replacing the rear wheel brake cylinders back in the day would have made my life/job so much easier. I evacuated the master cylinder with a turkey baster before a complete brake flush, including all four tires. Especially if the fluid was in a blackened deteriorated state. I do like your method and will definitely use it if I ever do this on rear drums/ brake cylinders in the future. As always thanks for your time and education.....Pete
Ken as you know that boot is also to keep dirt away from that piston too. Once the piston seal is shot and leaks it's time to change the cylinder. I would have you change both sides just because that's the way I like to do things. If one has failed it's a good possibility the other will fail eventually. Like you know that's called good maintenance.
You're right to change both sides at the same time. (Kenny did say he had just done the other side -- 3:30)
As you said, if one failed the other's likely close behind, and also they could handle a little differently if you have new hardware on one side only. Wouldn't want different braking power on one side. Good mechanics, both of you.
Thanks
I have to say your doing well with making these videos. Also that was awesome explaining the cold air intake deal. I have replaced several in different rides. Well done dude
When it comes to all Hondas I highly recommend trans flush or the transmission won’t last long at all or torque converter shudders begin to happen or they just burn up
My mechanic says when my car is making a funny noise, I'll need to come back later when it's hilarious!
I did a brake fluid flush in my truck the other day. The thing that bothered me was the coating inside the container that made it still look dirty. I removed it from the master cylinder and filled it with Simple Green. I let it soak for 10 minutes then shook it around for a couple minutes. After that, it was like new again.
those shoes looked pretty new/full thickness lining. I'm betting someone replaced them and adjusted it up. It's been my finding as of 30 years ago, the wheel cylinders always get moisture in them at center bottom and rust internally, then you push the pistons back into the rusted rough area once you either adjust the shoes or do any work.
I always replace wheel cylinders as part of any drum brake job, I got burnt a few times not changing them. of course back then, it was common to rebuild them, complete with honing them out right on the vehicle(lol), the metal seemed way better quality then and just a light honing and new rubber was about all that was needed.
Nice work. I used to leave the old cyl in place with no bolts and the line finger tight, then when I was ready with the new one I would just quickly swap them and screw the line on. you lose a few drips and no brake pedal presser. I've never seen anyone put any pressure to the pedal while opening the system, unless bleeding. but I have seen people pinch the flex-hose, and that would not be correct.
Hi.. i Always enjoy watching you working on cars.. in this last video i noticed that sucking the oil from the master cylinder reservoir stirred all the gunk that coverd the plastic container... isn`t this dangerous?? how about removing the reservoir and cleaning it whith some brake cleaner.... is it feasable? thanks and keep wrenching..
good tips , especially about re,-fastening brake - line ,:as a backyard mech.many years , .. school of hard knocks.
Thank you for sharing that information. But how did you know that I was going to be changing my rear wheel cylinder on my 94 D R 2500 and maybe also on my D C700
Will you damage the new cylinder with old dirty brake fluid?
that little trick of depressing the pedal is something I've heard about but have not tried. Next brake job, I will be trying because I am usually alone and don't have (tried them with problems) bleeder system. The brake fluid flush unit would be nice if I had need (doing brake work on the side) to invest.
In my younger days we rebuilt wheel cylinders. A quick easy job that never failed me. Is this an obsolete practice now?
Oh, I remember drum brakes, darn nearly killed me too. My 1st car was an LC Tarana (Australia) had drums all around. The driver side front brake used to lock up extremely easily, especially in the wet & try to drag me over into on coming traffic. I have spent many hours checking & servicing the brakes, trying to discover the cause, to no avail. Those brakes worked fantastic though.
desperation, I put the front end on stands and pulled the brakes down yet again, only thins time I did both brakes at the same time. So for the 1st time
Question, what about changing the transmission filter? If yes as what milage?
Interesting
I have the same Miti-Vac unit, have you ever had an issue with the container collapsing? Found out the hard way, that if suck out engine oil that is too hot, it will destroy the housing? Never thought about how hot engine oil is, until it deformed the plastic container? Just a heads up, so you don't destroy your unit, also, by accident?
👍
Wheel cylinders are very obsolete on most vehicles now. Toyota Tacoma still uses drum brakes in the rear, Toyota says they will never switch over to rear disc on the Tacoma truck.
You do well
I have noticed on RUclips right handed people seldom use left hand. I practiced until I can use either. I did carpentry for a while noticed the problems carpenters had nailing left handed if they were right handed even with nail guns. Now I use either without problems
@@jimharper6073 takes practice took me a long time. but almost everything i can do with either hand. i have seen right handed men that couldn't use a impact wrench with their left hand.
Don't have that problem I'm ampidextrous (can use both sides of my body equally).
U should've offered a fluid flush. 🤯🤯
Do you have a preferred brake fluid brand?
I noticed that to on some g m cars but they never leaked after brake job in n y winter brake job will head every thing they don’t want big bill before car rots in half
On the cylinder only the right side moves out. On left of car and right. , is this correct.
fluid getting past the square cut seal = leak. dust boots do not maintain brake system pressure.
Next time change the nasty fluid from the reservoir *before* opening the system.
I don't think it would have made much difference as he was not able to remove all the old fluid from the master cylinder, flushing the entire system would have done a better job, but maybe the customer didn't want to pay for that.
He said he owns the car.
You can remove the reservoir fluid with a baster, put clean fluid in, and then remove the brake line above a pan.
Keep the reservoir filled, and put the new part on when clean fluid is coming out.
We've always called it gravity bleed.
When he depressed the pedal, he blocks the compensating port to stop the gravity flow.
He also has the brake lights trying to melt the lenses.
And a quarter amp and more, battery draw.
To each his own, but I don't do it that way.
@@dannylinc6247 I don't think the brake lights would have been on unless the ignition had been left on, and yes it would have been better if he had changed the bake fluid as he was selling the car.
@@johnbeckett2624 what car can you sit in, step on the brake, and the brake lights don't work?
What car can you coast in neutral or push and when the brake is depressed, have no brake lights?
BOO circuit, (brake on/off) is hot at all times and the BOO switch on the pedal causes brake lights to illuminate with a battery connected, that's not dead.
I'm not saying there's no car ever wired the way you suggest, I'm just saying it's never presented itself in my experience.
I believe it's a standard by which cars are designed in my lifetime.
It's easy to draw out the old fluid, fill it with new, then change the part after a gravity bleed occurs while you're getting the old part off and the new one through the backing plate.
It's how technicians do things once they have had teaching by journeymen, where I come from.
The reason that wheel cylinder started leaking in the first place was almost certainly due to rust pitting because this owner clearly never flushed his brake fluid. It's supposed to look like lemonade, not coffee! By the time it gets that dark, the entire brake system is seriously degraded and needs to be replaced. The other wheel will be next, followed by the master cylinder, at which time the driver may have coffee-colored underwear too. Regular DOT3 or DOT4 fluid should be flushed about every 3 years, BEFORE it changes color to indicate system damage from corrosion due to water absorption.
put plastic tube on bleeder line into plastic bottle. you will see bubbles. also, since the fluid is so BLACK, need to bleed entire system with better quality fluid.
Wouldn't it be better to flush the hydraulic line before attaching it to the new cylinder?
Just a little anti-seize on bleeder threads for preservation
I live up North so it goes on the brake line nuts also. Dont forget to put some on the line under the nut so it will come apart easier next time.
...great DIY video Kenny.....content and video and audio quality outstanding.....question: would a wheel cylinder rebuild kit be worth the trouble?.....not much money saved?... 🙂
Thank you. I don't see any savings in rebuilding a wheel cylinder nowadays, honestly. They are quite inexpensive . Last time I rebuilt a wheel cylinder was in the early 80s lol !! I think it's harder to find a kit than the actual cylinder
That brake fluid was way past it's best and contaminated. For the time you spent faffy around emptying the master cylinder to replace the black gunge you took out, a further 20 mins you could have bled all 4 hubs, replaced the fluid with new and made the vehicle stop better and safer.
In our shop we would have that GM rep let me put them on your car see how you would deal with it
Never ceases to amaze me how cheap and lying the car company reps are. Would not admit that the wheel cylinders are failed when fluid goes past the seal into the inspection boot cover. I'll not go to that car company for my next car that's for sure.
yikes
Something tells me that service rep wouldn't last long in today's law suit driven economy. Really into customer satisfaction? The consumer will always blame you.
Come on Kenny! You don't recommend flushes? Really so never flush the transmission fluid? You think it will be better with original fluid for 200000 miles?
Absolutely. My Caravan has 240k with the original fluid and filter. My 05 Ram 1500 has 235K , original fluid and filter. My mom's Toyota has 300K , original fluid . My Dad's Dodge Omni (of all things) , had almost 400K miles , never serviced.
@@WrenchingWithKenny you are definitely the rare minority.
@@Mustangg16 I believe there is a difference between a flush and just dropping the pan to change the filter, no?
@Phil Spear of course there is. My one explorer has 207000 moles on it, flush it every 25000 miles. I guess I prefer preventive maintenance. I also change oil in my 3 vehicles every 2500 miles and pull my valve covers off and looks brand new
If fluid as been change every on a consistent intervals it's ok but never change old dirty fluid it has all the clutch grit in it which helps it keep from slipping put new in it and it will start slipping