A cracking start. That engine crossmember fold to the chassis arm took a lot of the shock from the impact, definitely a jig job and you are right to get both sides checked as the alignment is crucial structural safety, panels, etc. I would check the engine mounts, too, as there are two on that crossmember. A '71 P6B in good nick just went up for £10k so it's definitely worth saving. A bit of advice: if you can leave off the heavy metal fan once the new water pump is on, and you cool a V8 rad on a thermostat-controlled Kenlowe. Also with metal fan off, you can slot the kenlowe inside the engine bay. The metal fan saps 3-5hp, so worth considering. Another thing I've heard is that two 7'' fans across the rad do a very good job of cooling compared to one 13'', but you'll have to do fashion fixings for those. Good luck.
Thats always the problem with a car involved in even a smallish liw speed bump that the damage van spread further than you think .., still going to ne a cracking car when its finished
@petersmith7126 Thank you. That's definitely the case though. The damage ripples through the car. You have to find the furthest point of damage and work from there. It's looking quite good now!
An interesting project to get into. I'm surprised by the fan, I'm restoring a 1968 series 1 which had this type of bent end blades type. I thought this had been changed very early on in the P6B production run but perhaps any knowledgeable person will correct me. During restoration I also found impact damage at the same point as yours but this has only resulted in a 1/4" difference between the two sides so is of no consequence. None of the road and suspension components are joined in this area, you may not have to worry providing you can get the bumper to look straight with the valance panel. As it's 1976, one of the last P6B's, a great motor to unbolt parts from, they really drive very well compared with the shit boxes that are available nowadays.
I can't wait to drive this one. I've had the car measured, and nothing suspension or engine is out of line so as you say I think it's just the front. I've sorted a solution for this that will be in the next video.
I'd check its got oil pressure. I had one that had been front ended like that and the timing cover was very slightly bent (barely noticeable) where the water pump had gone back but it had snapped the drive to the oil pump. Distributer was still turning so it would run but oil pump wasn't turning.
@@thatguyfromcetialphaV That's exactly why I only mess with Classic/Retro cars. I've no interest in plugging a laptop in to fix something. Yeah, Albert Looms in Derby. I went the day before it shut down.
The wings are not structural on these cars, so you need to take them off to jig the car's basic structure first. Get yourself an original workshop manual for the details and how to do it.
Had a few of these along with the 3500 s , the spoilers are a great addition and so is the nada bonnet scoop !
@johntaylor587 Thank you! I wasn't sure at first but they're growing on me.
Great car it will be well worth the time and effort, great progress cheers 🥂
Cheers, it should be! Definitely worth the effort.
R.I.P. Albert Looms. I spent many hours in there.
It was a proper old school place wasn't it. Not many left like that now.
A cracking start. That engine crossmember fold to the chassis arm took a lot of the shock from the impact, definitely a jig job and you are right to get both sides checked as the alignment is crucial structural safety, panels, etc. I would check the engine mounts, too, as there are two on that crossmember.
A '71 P6B in good nick just went up for £10k so it's definitely worth saving. A bit of advice: if you can leave off the heavy metal fan once the new water pump is on, and you cool a V8 rad on a thermostat-controlled Kenlowe. Also with metal fan off, you can slot the kenlowe inside the engine bay. The metal fan saps 3-5hp, so worth considering. Another thing I've heard is that two 7'' fans across the rad do a very good job of cooling compared to one 13'', but you'll have to do fashion fixings for those. Good luck.
@@MichaelThomas-be7gq All good advice! I'll look into it, cheers!
Can't wait to see the progress. Just found you and subbed.
@@stephengirling7859 Thank you!
Thats always the problem with a car involved in even a smallish liw speed bump that the damage van spread further than you think .., still going to ne a cracking car when its finished
@petersmith7126 Thank you. That's definitely the case though. The damage ripples through the car. You have to find the furthest point of damage and work from there. It's looking quite good now!
@@PeakClassicCars ...pleased to hear that
Thanks for the video. New subscriber based on this video. 👍🏻
@@ASI-l2w Thank you!
I had a 2000 back in the day suggest looking at rear suspension mine went to scrap as stabiliser bar mounting to body rusted away
@@carfan7727 I'll have a look to make sure! Thanks for that.
An interesting project to get into. I'm surprised by the fan, I'm restoring a 1968 series 1 which had this type of bent end blades type. I thought this had been changed very early on in the P6B production run but perhaps any knowledgeable person will correct me. During restoration I also found impact damage at the same point as yours but this has only resulted in a 1/4" difference between the two sides so is of no consequence. None of the road and suspension components are joined in this area, you may not have to worry providing you can get the bumper to look straight with the valance panel. As it's 1976, one of the last P6B's, a great motor to unbolt parts from, they really drive very well compared with the shit boxes that are available nowadays.
I can't wait to drive this one. I've had the car measured, and nothing suspension or engine is out of line so as you say I think it's just the front. I've sorted a solution for this that will be in the next video.
I'd check its got oil pressure. I had one that had been front ended like that and the timing cover was very slightly bent (barely noticeable) where the water pump had gone back but it had snapped the drive to the oil pump. Distributer was still turning so it would run but oil pump wasn't turning.
@peskyparttimers8239 That doesn't sound good...and I'll be checking that ASAP. Thank you.
forget the automatic radiator stick a standard one on it and just buy a external auto box oil cooler they work 100x better any way
@nigelsears7191 That's not a bad idea actually. Think I'll do that, cheers!
A car from a time when you could work on it yourself. Nowadays? Forget it. Is Looms Albert Looms in Derby?
@@thatguyfromcetialphaV That's exactly why I only mess with Classic/Retro cars. I've no interest in plugging a laptop in to fix something.
Yeah, Albert Looms in Derby. I went the day before it shut down.
The wings are not structural on these cars, so you need to take them off to jig the car's basic structure first. Get yourself an original workshop manual for the details and how to do it.
Got the manual and have the wings! I love how every panel on these is removeable/bolt on. Makes getting to the inner structure a lot easier.