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How to: Walthers 130' DCC Turntable - Basic Info and Install
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- Опубликовано: 28 июн 2020
- Basic information and installation of the Walthers 130' DCC Turntable on my layout. A revised video of this and part 2 will come out later on as I am currently working on a new layout. Thanks for being patient!
I have also created a Google Drive containing all the paperwork such has revised users guide, mounting template, etc. Send me an email, located in the About section of my channel, and I will be more than glad to share it with you.
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Hey Everyone! I am currently building a new layout where I will be adding this later down the road. Stay tuned to future updates as this will be one of the first things added when I start to build the lower level of the Delta Pines Subdivision. Thanks for being patient! - Jason
The RUclips algorithm said that I should watch the video. I'm glad I did! Now I'm excited to see the turn table on the new layout!
Thanks for the info and advice Jason. I have the old 90' version that is just driven with a DC motor, although I have never assembled it or used it for anything. I'll look forward to the experience you have with yours. Art...
Thanks!
@PDRREngineer, not to highjack Jasons video here, but I just got finished "upgrading" the Walthers 90'er because of connectivity issues. Jason, you can delete if you want.
A couple things from other RUclipsrs: this product was made by Heljan for Walthers; a number of owners remarked that the larger tts needed support because they sagged a bit in the center. Cheers!
Thanks for that information!
I dont ever remember a low humidity day in Arkansas !!!! Gonna be nice to see how this turntable works for you
Winter....lol. I guess I meant the combination of heat & humidity together. It stayed in the 70's while it was storming all morning until the sky cleared up and the sun started baking the wet ground.
Jason, Nice update I have the 90 Walthers DCC table when my turntable is spinning my engines have power the only time yu do not have power on the track for the bridge is when the turntable passes the NO TRACK ZONES. I tested this my Lights remain on I can play the horn sound the bell. Also, not sure what Ray had problem with, but I have no issues with track polarity on my turntable I put in 11 service tracks and engines run thru to each one with no issues. Took a while to align them all but now good. Also remember to file down the end of the service tracks on an angle shows that in the manual. That helps with the engines not derailing going into the service tracks. I wired each service track to a toggle switch this way I can turn power on and off.
This video is 2 years old and since I posted it, I have found out from others that the 90' and 130' weren't built the same way. Unfortunately the 90' isn't big enough to fit my cab-forward so I am stuck with the 130'. If Walthers decides to rebuild the 130' where it doesn't loose power in the "dead zone", I will replace it, otherwise I am forced to use current keepers in my locomotive so their sound doesn't cut off during the rotation.
Glad to meet you on Heaths meet and greet yesterday. I'm anxious to see the second video on this.
Welcome Aboard! Hopefully I can do part two very soon. Trying to get the helix finished so I can board up around it and have a place to mount the turntable controller.
I love Turntables
Me too, now if I had the space, I would also input a deisel shop with a slide transfer table. Cotton Belt had both in Pine Bluff, AR. Turntable and Roundhouse is gone but the build shop and slide transfer is still there and operational. Now it is home to the AR Railroad Museum.
Thank you for visiting me.. Huge Hugs🙋🙋🤗🤗
Thank you too
@@TheTrainFreak 💖
😁👍
@@TheTrainFreak 🤗
Going to look and operate nice once you get it all together 👍🏼
I hope so!
Expensive as those turntables are they should have circuitry for reversing the polarity. Its ridiculous they didn't think about that but made it where you can control it with dcc. Dumb actually. So if you go 180 the power cuts out and if you have sound equipped locomotives they lose power then go through the start up sequence when they get it back. Not very dcc friendly.
I agree but I did test after I made that video with a loco with a current keeper installed and it didn't cut out as it kept rotating. This is why I mentioned Ray Boebel becuz he is modifying his 90' turn table and I wonder if he found a way to fix this issue.
Im wondering if a mrc auto reversing module could be wired in.
The roundhouse looks cool. We have the turntable.
That was a challenging kit to put together.
@@TheTrainFreak Yes it would be. That's why we never bought the roundhouse.
i have one of these. and lost all the instructions for it, no template , no paper work at all. so your videos will come in helpful
I do not have the instruction sheet but downloaded from Walthers, I will add that link in the next video.
An ar1 controller from digitrax can fix that 180 degree problem and not kill the engine or short out
It's the fact that the contacts under the bridge are cut to prevent a short and it causes a "dead zone". I am not sure the AR1 would fix that issue. As I am building a new layout, I will be revisiting this again in the future. Thanks for watching!
Thumbs up!
Thanks again!
just viewed this today very well done but what happened to part 2 ?
Thanks! I honestly never got around to part two. I am hoping to do that once I build the next layout which includes running the cable from the turntable to the controller box and mounting for easy operation.
Jason, you got my name right (one of very few)!!This is ALOT different then what I have. The Bering idea WONT work. Sorry bud. Really nice that Walthers did all of this on the 130' er because the 90' er didnt even have track! Talk about a pain. The 90' er has been since day one. One thing that the turntables do have in common is that they need to be 100% level. Finding that the hard way on mine.
Oh bummer! Well at least it was worth a shot of looking into it. I'm still not a huge fan of how Walther's designed it but its better than not having one. Now if I only had the room for their slide transfer table...lol. But hey, atleast I did do something right by getting your name pronounced correctly. ;-)
How deep to you have to cut to put it in?
I use 1/2" plywood and I had to cut a hole out. I had a 1x4 bracing underneath it at the time and ended up cutting about 2" out of the brace to get it to set properly. I will add it to my new layout but it will be a while before I do.
this has over 4k views and you was telling someone nobody watch your videos my views been going down really fast lately
Dwight, this video is 2 years ago. I'm talking about my newer stuff vs. 6 months ago.
@@TheTrainFreak oh
Bought 130 turntable, then bought 933-2321 Advance Control Module, but don’t know how to hook up to NCE, any help would be great full
I don't think I bought the Advance Control Module. I still haven't installed the spot I am going to hook up the controller so I can release part 2 on my video. So many projects on a big build...lol.
Hi! I’m intending on getting the 90’ for my DC layout. Are there any places where i can wire together my two feeder wires to power the bridge? I’m using atlas selectors and will doing block operation. I was wondering if it was possible to do this as I’m not using dcc and not using the motor. Thx a lot! Great video!!
I had the DC version in the past. The blue box that controls it will have two pairs of feeders connected as the controller will work off track power and the other pair feeds the bridge. There is a special cable that goes from the turntable pit to the controller. The DCC version should work on DC. Check out my friend Ray Boebel, he has that 90' version and runs DC.
@@TheTrainFreak thank you so much!
Your welcome!
very nice turntable does that controller come with it or you have to buy it. I'm going to get a new dcc turntable soon
It comes with it.
Yours was weather?!?!?!.
I'm about to pull mine out to paint and weather the pit once the lights arrive for the round house. I bought mine last year, and it's one of the newer ones. Not a bad turntable even with the dead zone, but the thing I hate the most is the screw holes. With fingers that are messed up, and trying to put those tiny screws into place is a night mare. Other thing I found it has to be dead level all around too, other wise the bridge would jam. I need to twise min about 5 degrees to a line the zero point.
Yep! Getting it completely level for me was the hardest part. I also used .25" plywood on top of .5" to offset the height of the cork. That seemed to help when connecting track in the past.
@@TheTrainFreak I know I'm going to have a lot of fun when I put it back into it's place, and get it level again.
That makes two of us.