@Glenn Johnson You are my hero! I too am restoring a 1971 Aquarius 21 and just discovered your videos a few days ago. I've been binge watching them and just finished this most recent one. I'm looking forward to an update and seeing the finished product. Good luck and god speed!
I did my Balboa 23 (Aquarius 7.0) a few years back. I did the removal and reinstall on the trailer. I made a new centerboard to drawing fro the old Yahoo group that I posted on the Facebook group plus copying the old centerboard. I used coal-tar epoxy, then marine grade bondo as my fairing compound. I also did my project solo. Looking back I would have made a stainless steel board 24 x 52". I cut my carbon board from a 24x48 shear dropping from the local metal dealer. I used a skil saw with an abrasive blade stepping down the c ut 1/16" at a time using wood fairing strips to guide the saw. Before I coated the carbon steel board with coal tar epoxy I used a home made sand blaster with a small compressor and a plastic milk jug to pit-up the surface to get a mechanical bond between the carbon surface and the coal tar epoxy. Why coal tar epoxy go look at bouy repair yard and see what the Coast Guard specify to coat the bouys. Now 7 years later, next year I'll put the first new bottom paint on the boats bottom and centerboard. No rust no flaking off of the fairing compound. One more comment you can never have too much dunnage and two automotive pump jacks made it easy to block the board vertical. I also used a SS insert 13/16" to 5/8" pivot pin diameter. between the SS pivot pin and the board to minimize the wear on the board's pivot hole and remove any side to side movement when at anchor from motor boat wake. Thanks for posting I wish we had talked at the start of your project. You are one determined somebody like myself.
Thanks for your extensive post. I went into this project with too little knowledge. I expect my epoxy will fall off someday. Hopefully it doesn’t jam in the housing. Wire brushing the metal was a dumb idea. I keep scratching my head at why it did that. Though, I did etch it with the acid. So that may help. Do and learn.
What you did is fine, It may last longer than you own the boat AND if it is used as a trailer sailor it will last even longer. The pain and joy of owning a 23 ft boat with crouching headroom and 18" minimum draft. I made a second board SS316L and it is in my storage shed awaiting it's turn. No fuss, just a plain SS board so it will never swell. It will never be in the water more than 2 weeks at a time. So marine growth isn't a major issue.
as an aussie ex trailer sailer owner (space sailer 22 )with a swing keel - just be aware that the the designer had the keel box at that height to prevent water overflowing so just keep an eye on those side holes and you may have to put some removable plates on them ??
Yes. The first time it was stuck was do to lots of rust cakes. I was able to swing the keel up and down a little then a little more and every time I did, rust fell out. It finally came all the way down. This last one was way tighter.
@@GlennJohnson1 It's amazing how little side force is needed to stick it in there so tight, dropping an entire engine block on it won't move it. Glad you got your out. We need to compare notes sometime. Enjoying your videos, which I just came across.
I bought a new winch, not about $20, and it came with the cable attached. The bitter end of the cable goes through a hole on the drum with a lead (?) swage. My terminology may be off, but I think you get it. I dislike the original winch because there are no gears. I like the size and appearance, but it’s dangerous.
@@myboatprojectaquaris I live in the Pacific NW. Puget Sound is my primary area. There's plenty of deep water but also lots of shallows, but they can be avoided. Massive tides are more of an issue. Thanks for your in-depth video series!
I actually did. But I didn’t show it. Video recording is a separate job that r requires as much or more energy as the work you see. I haven’t yet worked up enough energy to get everything.
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@Glenn Johnson You are my hero! I too am restoring a 1971 Aquarius 21 and just discovered your videos a few days ago. I've been binge watching them and just finished this most recent one. I'm looking forward to an update and seeing the finished product.
Good luck and god speed!
I’m happy to hear that, Johnny. I don’t suppose you are going n the PNW?
@@GlennJohnson1 No, I wish. Sure is pretty up there. I'm down in Texas.
Lessons learned. Great video!
I did my Balboa 23 (Aquarius 7.0) a few years back. I did the removal and reinstall on the trailer. I made a new centerboard to drawing fro the old Yahoo group that I posted on the Facebook group plus copying the old centerboard. I used coal-tar epoxy, then marine grade bondo as my fairing compound. I also did my project solo. Looking back I would have made a stainless steel board 24 x 52". I cut my carbon board from a 24x48 shear dropping from the local metal dealer. I used a skil saw with an abrasive blade stepping down the c ut 1/16" at a time using wood fairing strips to guide the saw. Before I coated the carbon steel board with coal tar epoxy I used a home made sand blaster with a small compressor and a plastic milk jug to pit-up the surface to get a mechanical bond between the carbon surface and the coal tar epoxy. Why coal tar epoxy go look at bouy repair yard and see what the Coast Guard specify to coat the bouys. Now 7 years later, next year I'll put the first new bottom paint on the boats bottom and centerboard. No rust no flaking off of the fairing compound. One more comment you can never have too much dunnage and two automotive pump jacks made it easy to block the board vertical. I also used a SS insert 13/16" to 5/8" pivot pin diameter. between the SS pivot pin and the board to minimize the wear on the board's pivot hole and remove any side to side movement when at anchor from motor boat wake. Thanks for posting I wish we had talked at the start of your project. You are one determined somebody like myself.
Thanks for your extensive post. I went into this project with too little knowledge. I expect my epoxy will fall off someday. Hopefully it doesn’t jam in the housing. Wire brushing the metal was a dumb idea. I keep scratching my head at why it did that. Though, I did etch it with the acid. So that may help. Do and learn.
What you did is fine, It may last longer than you own the boat AND if it is used as a trailer sailor it will last even longer. The pain and joy of owning a 23 ft boat with crouching headroom and 18" minimum draft. I made a second board SS316L and it is in my storage shed awaiting it's turn. No fuss, just a plain SS board so it will never swell. It will never be in the water more than 2 weeks at a time. So marine growth isn't a major issue.
as an aussie ex trailer sailer owner (space sailer 22 )with a swing keel - just be aware that the the designer had the keel box at that height to prevent water overflowing so just keep an eye on those side holes and you may have to put some removable plates on them ??
Yes, that is the plan. I bought them already. Thanks for the advice.
It will swell further when it gets wet. There might be bubbling. Plenty of opportunity for further jams. Keep a close eye on it is my advice.
Nice job
Hi Glenn, I'm wondering if you know the size of the centerboard bolt and threading? I think mine fell out. Thanks!
Must be a popular topic. I just posted a video on a stuck centerboard too. Always a challenge to get these things out, isn't it?
Yes. The first time it was stuck was do to lots of rust cakes. I was able to swing the keel up and down a little then a little more and every time I did, rust fell out. It finally came all the way down. This last one was way tighter.
@@GlennJohnson1 It's amazing how little side force is needed to stick it in there so tight, dropping an entire engine block on it won't move it. Glad you got your out. We need to compare notes sometime. Enjoying your videos, which I just came across.
@@GlennJohnson1 PS - Matt Cline / Salvation Navy are the same thing. I just am logged into one account versus another sometimes.
@@kb8wfh I’m only sorry I did not record my efforts to free the CB. I would have, had I known it was going to be such an ordeal.
Hey if you can show how you attached the cable to the winch that would be nice.
I bought a new winch, not about $20, and it came with the cable attached. The bitter end of the cable goes through a hole on the drum with a lead (?) swage. My terminology may be off, but I think you get it.
I dislike the original winch because there are no gears. I like the size and appearance, but it’s dangerous.
@@myboatprojectaquaris could you send a link to the winch you bought
Could’ve used a wire brush bit on a drill. That would have removed the gunk and scuffed it up for the epoxy to stick
I watched all the videos on this project. The thing I'm keeping in mind is.... get a boat with a fixed keel.
Unless you sail in shallow water.
@@myboatprojectaquaris I live in the Pacific NW. Puget Sound is my primary area. There's plenty of deep water but also lots of shallows, but they can be avoided. Massive tides are more of an issue.
Thanks for your in-depth video series!
@@craigparse1439I hope to sail in your area someday. I’ll. E sailing the Columbia River.
What kind of swing keel is this ?
It is made of steel. The size is about 2’x4’ and it weighs about 180lbs. Does this answer your question?
Dagger.
should have applied lock tight to end of bolt.
I actually did. But I didn’t show it. Video recording is a separate job that r requires as much or more energy as the work you see. I haven’t yet worked up enough energy to get everything.