Build a Roarockit Preshaped Skateboard Kit - Part 2
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- Опубликовано: 5 ноя 2024
- Part 2 of the How to Build a Pre Shaped Roarockit Skateboard Kit.
You can find the kit (Street Deck Double Kit) we are building here: www.roarockit.c...
Find all of our contact information here www.roarockit.c...
More tutorials: www.roarockit.c...
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This was really helpful even if you use the hydraulic press method everything after the bag helps you. Thanks for making this and i think your bag is a grate idea
Why does cash always look like he just cashed a massive bong hit?😂
Love what you guys do and am currently placing an order.
Nice work
😂Hope you enjoy doing your builds! Thanks for the love!!
This is such a cool product! I have a question for you guys...If the holes on the bottom veneer are pre-drilled, is it possible they will no longer be centered between the rails since the veneers tend to slip during pressing and because you've had to shape the edges of the deck in order to level all veneers down to a uniform shape? Is the bottom veneer made smaller than the rest so all shaping ends when the edges of that veneer have been met?
Great question! As the mold is the same shape as the veneers it makes it much easier to line up the veneers and keep them from slipping out of place. We also have notches cut into the veneers and mold that help hold them in place with the elastics. You can also still shimmy the veneers around once it is nearly under full pressure. If for some reason your holes end up being way out of place you can easily relocate them as they are just small guide holes, but we rarely see any issues with them being off centre!
All the veneers are the same size so that when you scrape down all the layers to match, it means you are taking equal amounts off of all sides of the board to keep things balanced.
Another reason we put the holes on the bottom veneer is that when you drill through from the bottom it will line up with your baseplate even if your holes are not perfectly square.
Hope that helps! Please let us know if you have any other questions!
@@Roarockit Wow, that response was quick haha. That clears it up! Thanks for your time!
For a non-preshaped wood (pro kit), how to cut the edges ? Is it the same technique involved ? Is there any risk of delaminating the sheets? thanks!
+Lionel Loeb Hi Lionel. No you fully do not want to carve your longboard out of an uncut pressing. I can't imagine how much work that must be. You'll need a scrollsaw, bandsaw or jigsaw to accomplish the basic method of cutting your shape out of a pressing.
these decks look a lot thicker than normal skateboards. can you use one less veneer or other veneers in the same kit?
+Brian Walters Yep! They are a bit thicker but the pre-shaped kits come with 14 sheets of veneer so you could totally play around with veneer counts in a deck. There are lots of extra ways to control for weight like less or different glue (titebond iii can layer on thick if you aren't careful), sanding down sheets to make them thinner, wheel wells and like you mentioned, less veneers. You're in control when building a board from scratch.
what tool did you use to shape the edges
Do I sand the concave in or is that done when using the styrofoam?
Frederick Tamura Concave is pressed in to the board when you use the styrofoam.
Ok thanks
No problem.
I'm currently making a longboard based of the Loaded Tan Tien, would I apply the same process of pressing veneers at a time or press all veneer at once. Also is mixing veneer like maple and bamboo a good idea or should I make a all Baltic birch board? The board I'm making is 38 inches long what would work best for such board? Thanks!
+flagzau You can press all at once if you feel up to it. We instruct this method on youtube for the benefit of those with less experience or confidence running through the process to ensure they're putting their lamination under pressure within the set time of the glue.
On mixing: Go for it! Experiment, play around. Each material has its own properties and there's no reason you can't combine to achieve different results in flex and rebound. A warning on baltic birch: That stuff is already plywood and not the kind of material you want to be doing further laminating with. People used to use it due to a lack of alternative skateboard materials available to the public. Now that we've facilitated access to the same stuff the industry uses, there's no real sense in going with plywood.
+Roarockit Thank you! For the amount of glue what kind of bottle should need for a 8 layer longboard 40"×10.5" veneers. Would a 32oz do or would it be tight?
If you check out the store page for glue or veneer, we show how much you might require OR you can do the math yourself: You'll need approximately 0.003oz/sqin of glue for an effective but lightweight lamination. Consider how much material you'll be trimming down, figure out your total glueable surface area and multiply by that figure.
so to add a graphic, should I paint it after or before the first layer of varthane? would standard spray paint be okay to use?
+David Tabak It all depends how fast you can finish the job and your preference for a surface medium. If you're quick to finish your graphics and apply a finish to the wood I don't see why you can't do that. If you think you'll be slow at finishing your graphics job then seal the wood immediately to prevent warping. As well, some people simply prefer to work on a sanded wood surface, others prefer a finished surface because of the feel.
The main idea to take away here is that you seal the wood before it has a chance to dry, split and warp.
I thought the kit would be $50 (all I can pay) but it was a bit expensive. do you think its possible to make your own bag and where would I buy the wood.
Our bag is actually the cheapest woodworking vacuum bag on the market. =) We also sell veneer at Roarockit.com. We also have kits with veneer and bags.
ok thanks
how strong are the boards with this method... pop, durability etc. also if i wanted to use a clamping method could i get like a reverse mold for the street deck for on top
Hi Joe! The air pressure that we get from the vacuum bag gives the same result as a hydraulic press because of the surface area being pressed on. That can be just as good if not better than something made commercially because it will be made with care rather than in a factory.
For your second question, it is possible to use two existing skateboards to press a skateboard in between, however you won't get an exact duplicate of the board since the top surface of that board will become the bottom surface of your new board. That's why we recommend the vacuum bag because it allows you to use a one sided mold. The other great thing about a one sided mold is that it is much easier to create than a two sided mold like what would be used in professional manufacturing.
Hope that helps and please let us know if you have any other questions! Thanks!
Roarockit Very cool guys. I’m also wondering if you can get as nice concave as a pro street deck. How do you achieve This.
@@joegee6915 Hi Joe! Yes you can achieve as much or as little concave as you would like if you custom shape a mold to your specifications! Hope that helps, and please let me know if you have any other questions!
i want to know if the mold have symmetrical shape or have a bigger nose than the tail? i want to make a symmetrical deck, or should i go buy the pro kit and make the mold by myself?
Great question! Yes our pre-shaped Street Deck does have a slightly larger nose than tail. If you want to make a deck to your exact specifications, I would go ahead and use the Pro Kit as you mentioned!
how do you make the concave in the skateboard?
I understand how to get the nose, tale, and pocket but get stuck on the concave
Frederick Tamura How do you make a pocket without concave? Sounds like you're already building it?
Roarockit I mean that like I know how to make the pocket but not the concave
I still yet to start, I just want to know how to do everything before I start
I'm afraid it sounds like you and I have a different definition of a board pocket. A pocket is created by the flat space left over when you transition from concave to kicktail or drop hence why I think you already have concave.
This video is intended for anyone building with the pre-shaped deck kit and do not need to shape their own molds. Please watch our video on how to make a custom mold, it might clear things up. ruclips.net/video/IuLg6MRbqGY/видео.html
What size decks are these? 7.75, 8 etc
The veneer sheets in this are 8" wide but get sanded down to between 7 and 7.5" depending on how well you do the lamination.
7:49
is that water base stain??
yes! it is a water-based clear finish
Cash the mute.
why ur partner is not talking?