A big tip of the hat for mentioning the "pulse signal" because I, too, was wondering why the heck we just couldn't jumper the thing with a wire. I wonder if the manufacturers do that just so folks can't easily override it.
So basically, I'm screwed. This doesn't work for me. I replaced the sensors and the door still won't close 80% of the time. Door moves freeley and is balanced and nothing in the way. Very frustrating.
It won't work. I tried it. I don't understand why it doesn't it must emit a certain amount of resistance and not a dead short when it clears the Sensors
Did you actually try short circuiting / jumping those two terminals? what happens if the wires connecting your sensors short circuit because installers don't bother to tape or wire nut them, do they arc/spark? (yes, i know its only 6v) does it blow a fuse in the motor? pop a capacitor on the circuit board? does it do nothing at all? Reason I ask is... a neighbor just had a fire start in their garage. she swears it was started by "garage door came down and hit the bottom sensor which sparked" This sounds highly unlikely... I don't understand how their door could hit the sensor first of all... I would just go out and short the wires on mine to see if it can even create an arc, but I don't want to blow something on the circuit board in the motor.
There is no way those sensor wires could start a fire if shorted together. That's all low current and low voltage. The sensor inputs are tied to the microprocessor I/O ports. It's not fused. Some boards are current limited and don't care if a short is present. Some boards do. FYI
These sensors are anpain in the a**. Spent like $10,000 on a fancy garage door from a professional company but they use this junk home Depot brand. Nothing but trouble with these stupid sensors out of alignment even though the lights are indicating they are. One time I found a spider web partially blocking it. But ever since then it just hasn't worked right. Finally ripped the crap out today and just did this basically. Use the mounting holes to make a sort of bar between the two so that I didn't have to use tape and it held nicely. Just have to keep an eye in case some spider decides to go between there and do a bunch of webs there's about a millimeter gap. I'd post pictures of what I did but I don't think RUclips let's photo replies. I wouldn't bother putting this where it belongs I'd leave it like this. I guess it's a safety measure but I'm not sure like you know if your foot or something gets stuck in it and there's any kind of pressure this garage door opens up anyway. And even that is giving me headaches. LiftMaster is really a pain in the you know what to modify any of the settings. It's purposely designed for service calls. I like the garage door but I hate this brand opener.
Exactly the question I needed an answer
A big tip of the hat for mentioning the "pulse signal" because I, too, was wondering why the heck we just couldn't jumper the thing with a wire. I wonder if the manufacturers do that just so folks can't easily override it.
So basically, I'm screwed. This doesn't work for me. I replaced the sensors and the door still won't close 80% of the time. Door moves freeley and is balanced and nothing in the way. Very frustrating.
Did you ever get it figured out?
Good info. Thanks!!!
It won't work. I tried it. I don't understand why it doesn't it must emit a certain amount of resistance and not a dead short when it clears the Sensors
Did you actually try short circuiting / jumping those two terminals?
what happens if the wires connecting your sensors short circuit because installers don't bother to tape or wire nut them, do they arc/spark? (yes, i know its only 6v) does it blow a fuse in the motor? pop a capacitor on the circuit board? does it do nothing at all?
Reason I ask is... a neighbor just had a fire start in their garage. she swears it was started by "garage door came down and hit the bottom sensor which sparked"
This sounds highly unlikely... I don't understand how their door could hit the sensor first of all... I would just go out and short the wires on mine to see if it can even create an arc, but I don't want to blow something on the circuit board in the motor.
I did try it. Nothing happened. I can't say for sure if you'll have the same experience, or if the results vary with different model openers.
I tried it as well and nothing happened. It didn't hurt the unit, but it also didn't bypass the sensor.
I tried too. nothing happend
There is no way those sensor wires could start a fire if shorted together. That's all low current and low voltage. The sensor inputs are tied to the microprocessor I/O ports. It's not fused. Some boards are current limited and don't care if a short is present. Some boards do. FYI
@@Chriscraft50 Right, my thoughts exactly.
You need a resistor
If you get that figured out, make a video. You'll get a ton of views.
These sensors are anpain in the a**. Spent like $10,000 on a fancy garage door from a professional company but they use this junk home Depot brand. Nothing but trouble with these stupid sensors out of alignment even though the lights are indicating they are. One time I found a spider web partially blocking it. But ever since then it just hasn't worked right. Finally ripped the crap out today and just did this basically. Use the mounting holes to make a sort of bar between the two so that I didn't have to use tape and it held nicely. Just have to keep an eye in case some spider decides to go between there and do a bunch of webs there's about a millimeter gap. I'd post pictures of what I did but I don't think RUclips let's photo replies. I wouldn't bother putting this where it belongs I'd leave it like this. I guess it's a safety measure but I'm not sure like you know if your foot or something gets stuck in it and there's any kind of pressure this garage door opens up anyway. And even that is giving me headaches. LiftMaster is really a pain in the you know what to modify any of the settings. It's purposely designed for service calls. I like the garage door but I hate this brand opener.
Short is better.