@@stayathomewoodworks Thanks. I did the same recently, using long GRK's with big heads, both into the studs and into the support arms, and they too were plenty strong. But my ledger and arms were all 1 1/2 x 2 1/2, with the hollow shelves ending up 4" thick. On my current project the client does not want the shelves to be so thick, and they must be finished clear, not painted. So to avoid having to miter-fold, I'm considering using solid 8/4 maple shelves and the HOVR extruded mounting system. The system gets good reviews, but clearly will cost substantially more than the hollow shelf method you show. What was the total thickness of your shelves?
Sweet !
Thanks!
😎👍🏽
You don’t need to screw the shelf to the wood bracket?
@@butterfly1873 you don’t have to. I just do it for extra peace of mind
What connectors/joinery method did you use to attach the support arms to the wall cleat?
They’re counter sunk with 4” screws from the back. I can hang from them supports and I’m 200+
@@stayathomewoodworks Thanks. I did the same recently, using long GRK's with big heads, both into the studs and into the support arms, and they too were plenty strong. But my ledger and arms were all 1 1/2 x 2 1/2, with the hollow shelves ending up 4" thick. On my current project the client does not want the shelves to be so thick, and they must be finished clear, not painted. So to avoid having to miter-fold, I'm considering using solid 8/4 maple shelves and the HOVR extruded mounting system. The system gets good reviews, but clearly will cost substantially more than the hollow shelf method you show. What was the total thickness of your shelves?
What ridiculously thick shelves
They’re completely custom. Get em whatever size you want