Thank you for posting, I have this exact tractor (since new) and needed some help understanding the PTO details. Recently took it to a local dealer to get an engine oil leak fixed, got it back and the PTO was making a terrible growl when not engaged. I'm not saying the dealer did anything wrong, perhaps the action of taking it off after 17 years of use changed the dynamic of something. Anyways - I suspect a bearing going bad so your video was a huge help! Thanks again. -shane
Hey @zeketheantiquefreak - on second thought is it possible to tap out that bottom bearing? When I removed the seal on mine the inner "lip" on the seal broke apart as it was brittle. I had to order a new bearing (so I could steal the seal off that), but in lieu of that I thought since I had the new bearing a might take swing at replacing the whole thing.
@@shanebissell8571 My apology... I just found your comment now. Without having the pto clutch in hand, my failing memory says that there is a chance that the bottom bearing would come out, but the top one is badly 'staked' into place. Yea, the price of a new one is prohibitive so saving what you have is a good option. My 277 has a whack of hours (1,100+) and I was able to successfully repack the two bearings as the shields were re-usable. Much time has passed, so I assume you are up and running. If I can be of any help ring back.
Thank you for posting this video. I have an LX277 also, but I don't know what year. Looks like I may have an issue with the PTO clutch. Sometimes it'll cut for a long time, sometimes it cuts for a short period of time, and the blades stop. I took it to a local repair shop, and they said the PTO clutch kicks out when it is heated up. The power is going to the clutch when the blades stop, so the clutch is bad. Is there anyway to fix my PTO clutch? I heard a new clutch could cost around $450 nowadays.
If you have a way to do an 'amp draw' test on your clutch, that would tell you if the windings are drawing current when the clutch is 'kicked out'. Voltage but no current to the clutch windings could mean a poor connection that gets hot and disconnects temporarily. This I have seen in other applications. I am thinking the windings are good if they work sometimes. I have a small amp meter that just 'lays' on the hot wire and gives a reading of the current going through. I can check what mine draws for you if you need. If your windings were shorted there would be a chance that it would take out the fuse from the over-current situation. If they had the pto clutch off to repair and the problem started immediately after that, I would suspect something went awry at the shop. Is the connector between the wiring harness and the clutch plugged in properly?
Sorry, it has been too long ago and memory is poor. I would suggest going to partscatalog.deere.com , follow the links for model and part, and compare the part numbers for the two bearings. You may be able to trace specifications by part number. If I remember correctly, the top bearing is 'staked' in and difficult to remove. A new hub was > $350.or something. A great item to service occasionally and save some cash-bucks. Sorry I couldn't be of more help.
On second thought, I think the shaft was the same size for it's length, implying the id of the two bearings was the same. Not sure of the od. Perhaps they won't list the top bearing separately, wanting you to buy the whole hub assembly.
Thank you for posting, I have this exact tractor (since new) and needed some help understanding the PTO details. Recently took it to a local dealer to get an engine oil leak fixed, got it back and the PTO was making a terrible growl when not engaged. I'm not saying the dealer did anything wrong, perhaps the action of taking it off after 17 years of use changed the dynamic of something. Anyways - I suspect a bearing going bad so your video was a huge help! Thanks again. -shane
Hey @zeketheantiquefreak - on second thought is it possible to tap out that bottom bearing? When I removed the seal on mine the inner "lip" on the seal broke apart as it was brittle. I had to order a new bearing (so I could steal the seal off that), but in lieu of that I thought since I had the new bearing a might take swing at replacing the whole thing.
@@shanebissell8571 My apology... I just found your comment now. Without having the pto clutch in hand, my failing memory says that there is a chance that the bottom bearing would come out, but the top one is badly 'staked' into place. Yea, the price of a new one is prohibitive so saving what you have is a good option. My 277 has a whack of hours (1,100+) and I was able to successfully repack the two bearings as the shields were re-usable. Much time has passed, so I assume you are up and running. If I can be of any help ring back.
Thank you for posting this video. I have an LX277 also, but I don't know what year. Looks like I may have an issue with the PTO clutch. Sometimes it'll cut for a long time, sometimes it cuts for a short period of time, and the blades stop. I took it to a local repair shop, and they said the PTO clutch kicks out when it is heated up. The power is going to the clutch when the blades stop, so the clutch is bad. Is there anyway to fix my PTO clutch? I heard a new clutch could cost around $450 nowadays.
If you have a way to do an 'amp draw' test on your clutch, that would tell you if the windings are drawing current when the clutch is 'kicked out'. Voltage but no current to the clutch windings could mean a poor connection that gets hot and disconnects temporarily. This I have seen in other applications. I am thinking the windings are good if they work sometimes. I have a small amp meter that just 'lays' on the hot wire and gives a reading of the current going through. I can check what mine draws for you if you need. If your windings were shorted there would be a chance that it would take out the fuse from the over-current situation. If they had the pto clutch off to repair and the problem started immediately after that, I would suspect something went awry at the shop. Is the connector between the wiring harness and the clutch plugged in properly?
Something I did not know is that certain electric pto clutches used on these JD's are adjustable for wear. Worth checking into.
@zeketheantiquefreak is the bearing size on the pulley bigger in internal and external size than the clutch bearing?
Sorry, it has been too long ago and memory is poor. I would suggest going to partscatalog.deere.com , follow the links for model and part, and compare the part numbers for the two bearings. You may be able to trace specifications by part number. If I remember correctly, the top bearing is 'staked' in and difficult to remove. A new hub was > $350.or something. A great item to service occasionally and save some cash-bucks. Sorry I couldn't be of more help.
On second thought, I think the shaft was the same size for it's length, implying the id of the two bearings was the same. Not sure of the od. Perhaps they won't list the top bearing separately, wanting you to buy the whole hub assembly.
@@zeketheantiquefreak8518 thank you for your reply