My old Corsair HX1000 has a toggle switch right on the unit to switch between multiple and single 12v rails. This isn't new and I don't understand why they're advertising this as "overclocking". I think they should just better educate users on the difference between single and multiple rails.
Do you know why they call features by bad names ? Its marketing 😂 having psu that can switch between rail usage sound booooring. Overclocking psu sounds like something extra
My understanding is it allows to push more power to one source so with OC mode on the device pluged to 12v2 for example will be able to draw more than 80 amps instead of 40 in non OC mode
Multi rail has each 12V group (rail) protected individually, if any of them draw too much the PSU shuts down. This is to protect individual components, but it also means a component that wants a bit more power as normal operation shuts down the PSU, while really the power supply has plenty of headroom because none of the other rails are drawing max power. Single rail combines all the groups, so individual components don't trigger protection, but total power draw still does. I think originally you actually had multiple rails because power supplies had separate circuitry for each that really couldn't handle more. Modern supplies however have the multiple rails are an addition that isn't really needed for the PSU itself, though load ballancing might improve efficiency or something. In practice however no-one really needs this. Only some extreme overclocking scenarios are ever going to need it. It's one of those "if you have to ask, you don't need it" things. I'm also not sure why Jay makes a big deal of it. This has existed for years and is fairly standard on high power PS's. The only thing special is the switch you can access without opening the case, which in my opinion is a bad idea; it's hard to picture a scenario where you routinely reboot to (de)activate such an OC feature, and if you do chances are you're going to forget switching at some point so you're better off leaving it on the single rail setting when not overclocking.
@@nagranoth_ I think it is important to note that you only switch it to single rail mode when you only have one component connected to the 12v rails. As soon as you have multiple components you risk frying them all at once on single rail mode, correct?
Yeah, I felt like he got distracted by the relay click instead of explaining what the actual point of it is. I started watching the video to find out what it was and left it not really knowing. Thanks to the others commenting to this for explaining it.
@L3v3LLIP think of it like the breaker panel of your house. Let's say you have a 200 Amp main breaker, and 10 20 amp breakers feeding appropriately sized wiring and loads on each. (Of course nobody's generally pulling 200 Amps, but bear with the example). Now, let's say circuit 3 has a device that's malfunctioning and drawing more current than it should. So now there's 30 Amps on that 20 Amp circuit. The individual 20 Amp breaker will "detect" that over current. For a multi rail PSU the OCP (over current protection) detects the excess load on one rail and shuts down the entire PC. In contrast, if you could "single rail" (Overclock, lol) your home's breaker panel, instead of having 10 20 Amp circuits, they'd all feed off the main 200 Amp breaker. You'd still be able to effectively pull 200 Amps in your entire house. However, if one device/circuit is malfunctioning and drawing more current than it should (30 Amps on circuit 3, and let's say 4 Amps everywhere else), the main breaker is going to have no idea that that device/wiring on circuit 3 is being overloaded. Now, let's say you really needed 30 Amps, because you have two appliances. In a house, the right thing to do would be to add a circuit with appropriate wiring to "split" that 30 Amp load across two protection devices, or two circuits. In the PSU world, the "safer" approach is to stay multi rail, and try to balance your loads between the different rails to stay within their limits. However, in the PC/PSU world, if you truly have one device that only plugs in one PSU output that exceeds the current protection in multi rail, you CAN go single rail to work around it, but you're limiting (almost eliminateing) your current protection on your other devices.
Dust is not why the fan ramps up. You need momentary higher voltage to kick the dead weight of the resting fan into motion, then you can apply less power to keep it spinning. Just like starting up a merry-go-round (or a flywheel)...it takes greater force to start movement, then far less to maintain a certain speed.
That's just a sad excuse for not using PWM, as a PWM controlled fan still feeds the full 12V to its motor at all speed levels. There are more reasons for it, like providing a safe default configuration in case the circuit that regulates its speed is malfunctioning, with the short period of going full speed being only the time the control circuit requires to stabilize on startup. NTC temp sensors have a lot of noise so you need to collect quite a bit of data to calculate a more reliable value, which delays the startup time of that circuit significantly, especially if it's using a PID control circuit. Some PSU manufacturers like Seasonic also like to use fans with a type of bearing that needs to passively build up oil pressure while spinning, which may benefit from a fast spin-up to reduce wear and tear.
@@letalissonusdc motor stall current requirements still play into a pwm controlled system. The CURRENT is what spikes when starting a dc motor. Not voltage. Voltage can be effected based on a number of things but it’s not about that here because watts are watts. Even if the voltage drops, the current will go up to meet the watt requirement.
@@letalissonuswhile pwm DOES send the device full 12v all the time, the average voltage seen at the device would depend on the duty cycle. So for example, the average voltage that a 12v fan sees at 50% duty cycle pwm would be right at 6v working average. In this situation, current stays the same. So the result is less watts being used by the motor.
In europe the standard is 230V @50Hz. In Germany houses are wired with 1.5mm (something between AWG15 and AWG16) cables and protected with 16A breakers. So theoretically you can pull up to 3680 watts of power from a standard „schuko“ socket.
@@Mikasicki I might be talking out my ass but I believe most houses do have 220v for washing machines and some people have it wired in their garage but not through the actual house. This is just from my limited knowledge of working with my grandpa who was an electrician, mechanic, and plumber lol so maybe I should go ask him
Here in Africa the sockets are 240v 16A ,the breakers are 20A with 2.5mm (13 gauge) wire so its a total of 4700w per at wall outlet. Our sockets are a bit beefier than European and UK sockets. I don't think this affects PC's as much as it does American kitchen appliances 1600w limit for kettle sandwich toasters air fryers vacuum cleaners were ours are 2200w - 3000w. At least US electric ovens have dedicated 220v sockets, but remember its just the two 110v phases in Delta there is no neutral in US 220v 30a sockets so no GFCI possible on the 220v. What makes American electricity so dangerous is the amperage and lack of GFCI breaker on the entire panel i.e all breakers down stream of GFCI like in it is for us in 220v countries.
It's honestly nuts how much power one needs in their PC's nowadays When i started building my own, 550w was on the "higher" end, now recently in anticipation for Ryzen 8000's i've bought a 1000w one to retire my current 850w...
Between CPUs and GPUs soon we'll need 20 Amp dedicated appliance circuits in bedrooms instead of standard 15 Amp ones because of the max wattage of the 15s won't be enough. Max wattage: 15A = 1800 watts 20A = 2400 watts
@@jd-py5nm The same happening to me. My 1000w is acting up now with 4090 and 13900k. I'm seeing 900w usage on the watt meter plug and random restarts without any errors. Waiting for my 1200w PSU to arrive now.
Yeah.. I bought my first bequiet back in 2008 or so. It was a P7 Dark Power 650W which felt incredibly over-powered to me at the time. But that thing kept going in the next two PCs I built after that and still works to this day - for all I know. That said: I'm "only" up by 100W now with a Straight Power 12 750W. I really don't think I need more than that for my 14700KF/RTX4070 +a bit of RGB-crap system - and I'm pretty confident I still have some power to spare should I decide to upgrade my GPU to a 4070Ti or perhaps even a 4080.
The Australian power grid is 230v +10% to -6% (so 253v to 216v), with most power being supplied in the higher end of 240v - 250v. Our normal sockets are rated at 10a, so we normally expect 2,400w to be available at the plug. We do have a 15a rated socket that is backwards compatible with 10a plugs (a larger ground pin prevents 15a plugs from entering 10a sockets), but they are pretty rare in residential properties. I've only lived in one place that had a 15a socket and that was located in the garage.
Here, in India, we use 6A and 16A sockets. 16A is common here for plugging ACs, microwaves, etc. My Corsair RM850x also came with the huge 16A plug, even though it's way overkill.
I am using the dark power pro 12 1300W in my current system and it is awesome. Lasmost no noise, great cables and superb stability and the little pcie thing to turn multi rail to single rail looks cute even though i dont use it
Got the 1500W version for my dream build and I don't expect to buy another power supply for a looong time. I can rest easy knowing my 3090 Ti power spikes mean absolutely nothing to my PSU.
What is bad about BeQuiet PSUs - their top models (1300w, 1600w) are not rated for 100v hence cannot be used in Japan. At the same time quite a lot of PSUs rated 100-240 (not 115-240) including 1300/1600w models though 1600w model will be limited to 1300w at 100v because of current limitation.
@@deadlymecury that's interesting input actually. As a European I wouldn't care for that, but that is definitely a dealbreaker to mot have that work in japan
It's not overclocking. 🙄 It's just a choice between multi-rail or single rail. Which Corsair have been doing for years. My Corsair shipped set to multi-rail, and if you want single rail, you just set it in the software
I always liked beQuiet products, be it their fans, Coolers, Cases or PSUs. Their stuff always feels premium, even the older series. I've been using one of their 1200W PSUs from the older Straight Power 11 Platinum Series, I bought that back in 2020 and it's been working perfectly and as the name suggests rather quietly.
I'm using the Be Quiet! straightpower pro 12, 1200W (straightpower are single rail psu's) and before that I had the dark power pro 11, 850W. Solid psu's, never had any issues with them. Really great psu's, solid build!
220V at 13A theoretically gives 2860W for the UK. We can buy and just plug in on a standard UK socket 2.5kw heaters. Heaters and Quick boil electric kettles tend to be top end power normal consumer electric devices
Can UK outlet socket supply 13 A continuously though? We have schuko outlets here that can give up to 16 A but only 10 A continuously unless it's super schuko which are used in car heating poles for example.
@@Simon_Denmarkyes, UK sockets up to correct spec can deliver 13a continuously just barely. The UK originally was a 250v system, but changed to 230-240 to match most of Europe. So 3kw is the technical maximum power an outlet is allowed to provide
It's strange for me that most US powerboxes (the mains supply) has a limit on how much power they can give. Some states in the US are now having power splitters at the house so you can have 220 and 110v. I guess when you live in a country that doesn't use a kettle to boil water for tea, the rest of your devices have to suffer.
@@kamelionify The US power grid is 240v using split phase. We supply 120v to most outlets in a house because that is what most devices use, and from a shock standpoint it's safer. Also your suggestion of the kettle doesn't really apply. Most kettles don't take anywhere near enough wattage that a 120v outlet can supply. TechnologyConnections did a great video on the fact that there really isn't a difference. In most American households the highest wattage devices are typically things that won't be moved, dish washers, laundry washers & dryers, so therefore it makes sense to install the specific higher voltage outlet at that location. Ultimately the usage was based on the applications needed, in which its available but not always necessary.
Hi Jay. Well, you've done it to me again. My wife came into my Gamer Room while I watched this video. She noticed it was one of your videos and said, "What's that SOB telling you to buy today?" I hope to have my 'new' PSU in a few days. I love my wife and she is right up there with my PC.
I'm glad this isn't "overclocking" in the sense that I imagined. If a PSU is not operating within spec, then it is a magic smoke machine that makes bricks.
I have the dark power pro 12 1200w unit. The only thing I dislike about it is the size of the cables. As nice as they are, you can’t find combs that fit them.
I've been looking at the 1300w for a while now. Glad to see someone that I recognize and trust do a video. Been using the same 850w corsair for like 11 years now.
I'm running a Corsair 750W PSU that's fairly new, but my case, cooler, and fans are all Be Quiet. I plan to get their PSU as well, but probably the Pure Power 12 1000W option.
Jay, I still own an old Antec power supply that has three knobs to "overclock" the voltages on +3.3, +5 and +12V It was really helpful back then. I had a Maxtor HDD that kept turning off and on on voltage fluctuations and cranking up +5V IIRC fixed it 😁
Stay Away! (AUS) Bought a Dark Power Pro 13 1600W and it failed after 10 minutes by tripping the circuit breaker. Turned off PSU power switch, only turned on the wall switch and it tripped the breaker again. POS PSU has been returned to MWave for 'Faulty within 28 Day Period for refund. Swapped my Asus Strix 850W White PSU back into my system and everything works fine as it did before.
Did you make sure not to reuse any old cables from the old powerful supply? Using power supply cables from other models can cause serious issues due to the pinouts being different, even from the same manufacturer.
bequiet is not known to be a quality psu brand i would rather get corsair, seasonic or evga (if you can find one) but the feature set on this one is quite interesting
3680W would be the absolute limit we can pull from a single breaker in europe. Usually no more than 2400W, a 12A breaker is pretty common for regular circuits.
Interesting, here in Germany I never saw a 12A breaker. We have usually either 10A (for light circuits) or 16A (for circuits with power outlets) breakers.
@@Drumonymus Unless I'm drunk, I'm pretty sure my panel has only 12 and 16A breakers. Also could be wrong tho. Last time I popped a breaker was end of last year. I'm sure I swaped that pesky B12 for a C16 breaker supplying the work room.
@DrakkarCalethiel I didn't say you were wrong, I just said I don't know it. Didn't mean to offend you. The "Interesting" was not ironic or anything :) in which country do you live?
@@Drumonymus Gee, lf I would get "offened" by this, I would have to reconsider my life. xD Austria, your alpine neighbour. :D Just looked at my panel out of curiousity, 16A bathroom dedicated for the washer, 10A bathroom power + light, living room + entry room 12A, kitchen 3ph16A dedicated for the oven + 16A, sleeping room has a very odd 13A breaker and 12A swapped to 16A for the work room. The only thing that is totally weird is the 13A one. Just why?
I got the 1000W variant during BF, and even though it doesn't look sexy I wouldn't replace the 12vhpwr direct cable. The included cable snapped in audibly and didn't seem to have any way to pull out as was demonstrated in the past. Also it has the bendable high gauge cables as was demonstrated in the video. Overall a really good purchase (and a great price during BF sales anyway)
I have this psu, but 1000w version. First one needed to be returned, but the replacement one works great! Mine doesn't have individually sleeved cables though, so that might be a 1600w only thing (or 1300w).
Many power supplies are most efficient when loaded to about 70% or so. So if you buy a 1200W PSU and your system only pulls 450W, it will (possibly) run less efficiently and cost you more on your power bill. Some manufacturers provide a load vs efficiency curve that you can consult.
Probably why my energy bills are so insane 😂 I have a 3080, 7800X3D with a Corsair HX1200 A ton of RGB though and about 12 different peripherals including joysticks and pedals
In Australia where we run a 230v power grid. Well, 230v +10% / -6%, so 253v to 216v delivered to the home. Many grid power providers tend to supply on the high end, between 240v and 250v. Our normal power sockets are rated at 10a. So as a base rule, we assume 2,400w of power available at the plug. We do also have some sockets rated for 15a, these look almost identical except require a larger ground pin which prevents them from being used in a 10a socket, but allows 10a plugs to work perfectly fine in a 15a socket.
My Dark Power Pro 11 750W has this and it's about 6-7 years old. I have the jumper always installed and have the toggle in the box. so this isn't new at all, but thanks for the nice explanation! ;-)
In fact, in Europe it is one of the most reliable power supplies I have been using the Dark Power Pro 11 750w for 4 years without any problems 850w are sufficient under normal conditions without overclocking, otherwise at least 1000w and preferably 1300w Dark Power Pro
I just had a dark power pro 12 1200W literally blow up, I bought mine new and I had only used it for a year and a half. It ended up taking my power strip with it but fortunately nothing else. Since this is the first time I've ever had a PSU die me it's going to be hard for me to trust the longevity of Be Quiet's PSUs moving forward. That's not to say the PSU was bad while it was working though, it was always silent and did a good job feeding my 12700K + 3080ti system. Also whatever built in protections definitely did their job and prevented the PSU from taking anything inside my computer with it. So far the RMA process has been fairly smooth, but we'll see if I'm even able to get a replacement since I've seen mixed feedback about Be Quiet's RMA support. Anyways, just wanted to share my experience. Might update if I get a replacement.
In Europe we have circuits with 230V and mostly 10A fuses but some have 16A like (Germany) which equals to 2300/3680W but obviously you can't feed the full power to the PC due to conversion losses.
I find it a little goofy how we went from single-rail AT/ATX PSUs in the old days, to multi-rail PSUs in the 00's, then back to single-rail, and now back to multi but with single mode as a toggle.
I have a 1k psu from when I had my 980ti with 9590cpu. Now using a 3070 and a 8700k. Works just fine for my system. Had the same on for a really long time now. Probably 8 years old now
In Germany we can go up to 3600W if we have the correct connection. If your house/apartment block has been built after 2017, it will be able to do this.
Titanium PSUs are ONLY maximally 94% efficient in the US where they use 110 Volts AC, in Europe (or pretty much everywhere else in the World) where we use 240 Volts it has a maximum of 96% efficiency.
Power supplies, power stage switches, and rectifiers being rated to handle transient load spikes of double (or more) the safe rated throughput is not special, it is completely normal for all but the absolute cheapest units and is often considered a safety feature, not an overclocking feature.
This feels weird to say, but that is a sexy power supply, lmao. It's a shame that they cheaped out on arguably the second- or third-most important cable in the PSU, the 12VHPWR. If you're spending 300-400 bucks on a PSU, all of the cables should look nice, but I digress (see what I did there?). Thankfully CableMod exists and makes those sexy Stealth Sense cables/extensions.
There's no reason for it not to be a single 12v rail in the first place like the EVGA Supernova, which makes the whole "overclock" thing nothing more than a gimmick.
Crap... now I feel so inadequate with my Straight Power 12 ... :D That one uses the same style of 12VHPWR cable as that Dark Power and its other cables are braided in the same manner. Seems they only include those individually braided ones with the 1300 and 1600W Dark Power ones. All that said: I think you'll definitely need a case with no PSU-shroud or one with a cut-out in the shroud. That PSU looks absolutely stunning IMO and it'd be a shame to hide it behind a piece of metal.
Don't feel that way! The 12VHPWR is already being replaced in ATX 3.1 next year (early as January). The new cables/connectors (2 x 6-pin or something like that iirc) will be somewhat backwards compatible with 12VHPWR/ATX 3.0. So buying an ATX 3.0 PSU with 12VHPWR connectors right now is kinda dumb. All the retailers have massive stock though, so they (and obviously their sponsored RUclips channels) aren't exactly motivated to make those facts common knowledge yet.
Some power supplies (MSI MEG Ai1300P for example) have a usb connector allowing them to be monitored via software. Mine allows you to switch between single rail or multi rail via the software that monitors it.
EU plug can go to 2400W if it's wired for 10A or 3840W with 16A so in europe you could consider up to like +3KW PSUs The click is just bypass relay for the termistor to limit charge current of the input caps and the switch is probably run at like 5v I would imagine nothing fancy just signaling to PSU that's it should pull the trigger for big power
If everything in my system drew max wattage, I calculsted 570 watts. I could have put in a 650, but I prefer to over power every build in case I add or upgrade something. So, I put an 850 in. Future proof 😀
I shouted 'STOOPID' to my screen when Jay showed the need for a PCIE slot for the overclocking switch. there's absolutely no reason why it can't just be on the same side where the PSU switch is on.
@@xenthoxinmake it recessed? Make it have a cover? Develop a way to not apply the change while it's turned on? You make it sound like the solution they did is not prone to accidents, which is it's even more prone to accidents being close to the gpu. How many times you flip the switch of your psu versus how many times you plug in and out a display cable? Not to mention the exposed wires at the back of it lol
@@MichaelJacob I made it sound like it was an easy switch to hit on accident, every solution has potential for accidents. They could put it in a switch that has a cover over it that has to be open and somehow someone would still mess it up, but at least what they've done here is make it more difficult to happen. As for switching cables... I haven't had to do that in over a year, so probably about just as rarely, but I don't have much to change on my rig. Not sure how often people would be switching their display cables.
@@xenthoxin you're giving bequiet too much credit. I remember my old iGame 3070 Vulcan that has an OC button at the back where the OC would kick up after the reboot where a user won't be able to mess up and no hazard of breaking anything by doing so even accidentally.
We can go up to 13Ax220V=2800W, although that is input power. At 90% efficiency it's closer to 2.5Kw. The actual voltage can be as high as 249V in places, but it is possible to be as low as 220V.
Forward compatibility is exactly why I got an 850W PSU. Higher than that and I'll cook in my room, so this is the limit anyway and even with a 7900 XTX and a 5950X I still have 150W left (at it's still getting too hot anyway...)
I'm pretty sure that 230 V is used pretty much everywhere in EU, it's the EU standard. Also depends on the outlet type, normal schuko for example can only supply 10 A continously unless you want to burn the socket.
@@Simon_Denmark 230 is writen but try to mesure it. 240. Lowest during "rush hour" is like 238v. And btw schuko is german plug made for 2,5mm cable and 16amp. Standart for schuko is B16 braker which can do up to 30 amp for small time period. 10 amp is for 1,5mm cable and it is usualy used for lights and not for plugs. There is also 2 and 6 amp breakers for lights but those are usually used for single light outside. 2 amp for led and 6 amp for up to 1000w halogen reflectors.
@@Simon_Denmark it can, and its doing it in million and millions of plugs all over europe for tens ano tens of years. maybe you are confused between AC and DC.
Unfortunately you don't seem to explain in this video WHY you would want to use this feature. What does it mean to switch between a single rail or multiple rails?
Our breakers are typically 16 A, so theoretically we could go up to 3.6 kW PSUs. Of course, that's assuming an impossible 100% efficient PSU. And a reserved circuit for just that outlet.
I had the 1000W version twice and returned both. The fan in both devices were clearly audible even at idle load and louder than all other fans in my pc. In fact, you can hear this rattling even when the psu starts up in the video.
The galax hof uses 2 12vwhpr cables I doubt you would need 2 separate cables from the psu side but hey this psu can do it if needed , that’s pretty cool
i went seasonic again. havent heard a thing from my old or new psu. the rail toggle is neat but really should just be a switch on the psu like fan control toggles are.
Really liking this psu for my next build. Currently have an rm1000x and was considering getting the hx1000i but Corsair psus are still very long (I could go shift) but I want a higher efficiency rating than gold.
I have the Dark Power 13 1000w and can't recommend it. Yes, its really efficient and has all the bells and whistles... but its quite obnoxious when my pc is in idle. Its by far the loudest component when in Idle because it doesnt has a no fan mode.
just make a gasket between the power supply tunnel and the unit itself. The power supply cover resonates with the fan!!! I have already done this trick with my power supply, and I wish the same for you.
Next we’re gonna be overclocking our cardiac pacemakers
I would totally do that
Yeah, I bet that mode will taste like pineapple......
technically we already can.
It's not overcloking. It's just switchable between multi rail or single rail. Nothing new. Corsair do the same
80 year olds running faster than Usain Bolt 😂
My old Corsair HX1000 has a toggle switch right on the unit to switch between multiple and single 12v rails. This isn't new and I don't understand why they're advertising this as "overclocking". I think they should just better educate users on the difference between single and multiple rails.
This video is an advertisement for those PSUs. Don't expect him to say anything bad or say that you could find an older PSU with the same features
Can tell you why it's advertised as OCK. singlerail psu is better for overclocking on GPU and CPU then multirail.
Do you know why they call features by bad names ? Its marketing 😂 having psu that can switch between rail usage sound booooring. Overclocking psu sounds like something extra
What IS the difference between the single an multi rail?
@@lyianx Basically you are making 4 parallel 2-lane roads to 1 big 8-lane autobahn for the current.
Would love a better explanation of why switching to "Single Rail Mode" is important when overclocking cpu/gpu
My understanding is it allows to push more power to one source so with OC mode on the device pluged to 12v2 for example will be able to draw more than 80 amps instead of 40 in non OC mode
Multi rail has each 12V group (rail) protected individually, if any of them draw too much the PSU shuts down. This is to protect individual components, but it also means a component that wants a bit more power as normal operation shuts down the PSU, while really the power supply has plenty of headroom because none of the other rails are drawing max power. Single rail combines all the groups, so individual components don't trigger protection, but total power draw still does. I think originally you actually had multiple rails because power supplies had separate circuitry for each that really couldn't handle more. Modern supplies however have the multiple rails are an addition that isn't really needed for the PSU itself, though load ballancing might improve efficiency or something.
In practice however no-one really needs this. Only some extreme overclocking scenarios are ever going to need it. It's one of those "if you have to ask, you don't need it" things. I'm also not sure why Jay makes a big deal of it. This has existed for years and is fairly standard on high power PS's. The only thing special is the switch you can access without opening the case, which in my opinion is a bad idea; it's hard to picture a scenario where you routinely reboot to (de)activate such an OC feature, and if you do chances are you're going to forget switching at some point so you're better off leaving it on the single rail setting when not overclocking.
@@nagranoth_ I think it is important to note that you only switch it to single rail mode when you only have one component connected to the 12v rails. As soon as you have multiple components you risk frying them all at once on single rail mode, correct?
Yeah, I felt like he got distracted by the relay click instead of explaining what the actual point of it is. I started watching the video to find out what it was and left it not really knowing. Thanks to the others commenting to this for explaining it.
@L3v3LLIP think of it like the breaker panel of your house. Let's say you have a 200 Amp main breaker, and 10 20 amp breakers feeding appropriately sized wiring and loads on each. (Of course nobody's generally pulling 200 Amps, but bear with the example).
Now, let's say circuit 3 has a device that's malfunctioning and drawing more current than it should. So now there's 30 Amps on that 20 Amp circuit. The individual 20 Amp breaker will "detect" that over current. For a multi rail PSU the OCP (over current protection) detects the excess load on one rail and shuts down the entire PC.
In contrast, if you could "single rail" (Overclock, lol) your home's breaker panel, instead of having 10 20 Amp circuits, they'd all feed off the main 200 Amp breaker. You'd still be able to effectively pull 200 Amps in your entire house. However, if one device/circuit is malfunctioning and drawing more current than it should (30 Amps on circuit 3, and let's say 4 Amps everywhere else), the main breaker is going to have no idea that that device/wiring on circuit 3 is being overloaded.
Now, let's say you really needed 30 Amps, because you have two appliances. In a house, the right thing to do would be to add a circuit with appropriate wiring to "split" that 30 Amp load across two protection devices, or two circuits. In the PSU world, the "safer" approach is to stay multi rail, and try to balance your loads between the different rails to stay within their limits.
However, in the PC/PSU world, if you truly have one device that only plugs in one PSU output that exceeds the current protection in multi rail, you CAN go single rail to work around it, but you're limiting (almost eliminateing) your current protection on your other devices.
Great power supplies. I bought my "be quiet! Dark Power PRO P8 1000W" in 2011, and still using it in my PC (with RTX4090 and I9-14900K).
Is that Wise?
It lacks modern protections.
That’s a good way to kill your hardware. I wouldn’t use a PSU outside of its warranty and that includes my AX1600i in my main PC.
Dust is not why the fan ramps up. You need momentary higher voltage to kick the dead weight of the resting fan into motion, then you can apply less power to keep it spinning. Just like starting up a merry-go-round (or a flywheel)...it takes greater force to start movement, then far less to maintain a certain speed.
That's just a sad excuse for not using PWM, as a PWM controlled fan still feeds the full 12V to its motor at all speed levels. There are more reasons for it, like providing a safe default configuration in case the circuit that regulates its speed is malfunctioning, with the short period of going full speed being only the time the control circuit requires to stabilize on startup. NTC temp sensors have a lot of noise so you need to collect quite a bit of data to calculate a more reliable value, which delays the startup time of that circuit significantly, especially if it's using a PID control circuit.
Some PSU manufacturers like Seasonic also like to use fans with a type of bearing that needs to passively build up oil pressure while spinning, which may benefit from a fast spin-up to reduce wear and tear.
@@letalissonus It's possible that complexities like PWM are a bit risqué to the economy and longevity of a reliable PSU at their present state.
@@letalissonusdc motor stall current requirements still play into a pwm controlled system.
The CURRENT is what spikes when starting a dc motor. Not voltage. Voltage can be effected based on a number of things but it’s not about that here because watts are watts. Even if the voltage drops, the current will go up to meet the watt requirement.
@@letalissonuswhile pwm DOES send the device full 12v all the time, the average voltage seen at the device would depend on the duty cycle. So for example, the average voltage that a 12v fan sees at 50% duty cycle pwm would be right at 6v working average. In this situation, current stays the same. So the result is less watts being used by the motor.
Or it's self-testing
In europe the standard is 230V @50Hz. In Germany houses are wired with 1.5mm (something between AWG15 and AWG16) cables and protected with 16A breakers. So theoretically you can pull up to 3680 watts of power from a standard „schuko“ socket.
1600 sounds really low though. Where vacuums in the US limited to 1600W? That was really not a lot back in the day. Or an electric oven?
@@Mikasickistandard nowadays tbh
@@StimulationSimulated nowaday, yes. But 20 years ago 2500W was more or less standard. Now there are regulations on it if I remember correctly.
@@Mikasicki I might be talking out my ass but I believe most houses do have 220v for washing machines and some people have it wired in their garage but not through the actual house. This is just from my limited knowledge of working with my grandpa who was an electrician, mechanic, and plumber lol so maybe I should go ask him
Here in Africa the sockets are 240v 16A ,the breakers are 20A with 2.5mm (13 gauge) wire so its a total of 4700w per at wall outlet. Our sockets are a bit beefier than European and UK sockets. I don't think this affects PC's as much as it does American kitchen appliances 1600w limit for kettle sandwich toasters air fryers vacuum cleaners were ours are 2200w - 3000w. At least US electric ovens have dedicated 220v sockets, but remember its just the two 110v phases in Delta there is no neutral in US 220v 30a sockets so no GFCI possible on the 220v. What makes American electricity so dangerous is the amperage and lack of GFCI breaker on the entire panel i.e all breakers down stream of GFCI like in it is for us in 220v countries.
It's honestly nuts how much power one needs in their PC's nowadays
When i started building my own, 550w was on the "higher" end, now recently in anticipation for Ryzen 8000's i've bought a 1000w one to retire my current 850w...
I bought a 1000 watt back in 2016 its just now starting to act up after tons of use and upgrading of the pc over these years timely video
Between CPUs and GPUs soon we'll need 20 Amp dedicated appliance circuits in bedrooms instead of standard 15 Amp ones because of the max wattage of the 15s won't be enough.
Max wattage:
15A = 1800 watts
20A = 2400 watts
@@jd-py5nm The same happening to me. My 1000w is acting up now with 4090 and 13900k. I'm seeing 900w usage on the watt meter plug and random restarts without any errors. Waiting for my 1200w PSU to arrive now.
Yeah.. I bought my first bequiet back in 2008 or so. It was a P7 Dark Power 650W which felt incredibly over-powered to me at the time. But that thing kept going in the next two PCs I built after that and still works to this day - for all I know.
That said: I'm "only" up by 100W now with a Straight Power 12 750W. I really don't think I need more than that for my 14700KF/RTX4070 +a bit of RGB-crap system - and I'm pretty confident I still have some power to spare should I decide to upgrade my GPU to a 4070Ti or perhaps even a 4080.
My first build used a 65W PSU in 1994. Hopefully things level off soon...we need optical logic gates or some equally massive breakthrough.
The Australian power grid is 230v +10% to -6% (so 253v to 216v), with most power being supplied in the higher end of 240v - 250v.
Our normal sockets are rated at 10a, so we normally expect 2,400w to be available at the plug.
We do have a 15a rated socket that is backwards compatible with 10a plugs (a larger ground pin prevents 15a plugs from entering 10a sockets), but they are pretty rare in residential properties.
I've only lived in one place that had a 15a socket and that was located in the garage.
Here, in India, we use 6A and 16A sockets. 16A is common here for plugging ACs, microwaves, etc. My Corsair RM850x also came with the huge 16A plug, even though it's way overkill.
I am using the dark power pro 12 1300W in my current system and it is awesome. Lasmost no noise, great cables and superb stability and the little pcie thing to turn multi rail to single rail looks cute even though i dont use it
got the dp 12 1000w its awsome
Got the 1500W version for my dream build and I don't expect to buy another power supply for a looong time. I can rest easy knowing my 3090 Ti power spikes mean absolutely nothing to my PSU.
What is bad about BeQuiet PSUs - their top models (1300w, 1600w) are not rated for 100v hence cannot be used in Japan.
At the same time quite a lot of PSUs rated 100-240 (not 115-240) including 1300/1600w models though 1600w model will be limited to 1300w at 100v because of current limitation.
@@deadlymecury that's interesting input actually. As a European I wouldn't care for that, but that is definitely a dealbreaker to mot have that work in japan
It's not overclocking. 🙄
It's just a choice between multi-rail or single rail. Which Corsair have been doing for years.
My Corsair shipped set to multi-rail, and if you want single rail, you just set it in the software
beQuiet have also supplied the same switch and panel for their high end PSUs for many years.
Jay just lived under a rock it seems xd
@@Waldherz to be fair, he did say he doesn't do this much bc he doesn't know as much about PSU's as he'd like to.
I always liked beQuiet products, be it their fans, Coolers, Cases or PSUs. Their stuff always feels premium, even the older series. I've been using one of their 1200W PSUs from the older Straight Power 11 Platinum Series, I bought that back in 2020 and it's been working perfectly and as the name suggests rather quietly.
The ca-chunk you hear when overclocking is on is most likely a relay, which you supply power to by shorting two pins on the overclock header.
I'm using the Be Quiet! straightpower pro 12, 1200W (straightpower are single rail psu's) and before that I had the dark power pro 11, 850W. Solid psu's, never had any issues with them. Really great psu's, solid build!
It's like the old Corsair 1500i power supply. It had a companion software you showed in a video to change the 12V from multi rail to single rail.
Yes, it’s called Corsair Link I believe. My 1500i died after 6 years btw, so I’m not really convinced of the quality of it.
@@LifeStartsAtrpm-ru1xo Dont they also have a 10 year warranty? I'd reach out. Maybe they'll replace with one of equal or higher quality?
holy shit just seeing that thing, its the prettiest power supply ive ever seen. damn be quiet knows how to make good looking piece of metal
220V at 13A theoretically gives 2860W for the UK.
We can buy and just plug in on a standard UK socket 2.5kw heaters.
Heaters and Quick boil electric kettles tend to be top end power normal consumer electric devices
Can UK outlet socket supply 13 A continuously though? We have schuko outlets here that can give up to 16 A but only 10 A continuously unless it's super schuko which are used in car heating poles for example.
@@Simon_Denmarkyes, UK sockets up to correct spec can deliver 13a continuously just barely.
The UK originally was a 250v system, but changed to 230-240 to match most of Europe. So 3kw is the technical maximum power an outlet is allowed to provide
It's strange for me that most US powerboxes (the mains supply) has a limit on how much power they can give. Some states in the US are now having power splitters at the house so you can have 220 and 110v. I guess when you live in a country that doesn't use a kettle to boil water for tea, the rest of your devices have to suffer.
Schuko can absolutely handle 10A continuous.
@@kamelionify The US power grid is 240v using split phase. We supply 120v to most outlets in a house because that is what most devices use, and from a shock standpoint it's safer. Also your suggestion of the kettle doesn't really apply. Most kettles don't take anywhere near enough wattage that a 120v outlet can supply. TechnologyConnections did a great video on the fact that there really isn't a difference. In most American households the highest wattage devices are typically things that won't be moved, dish washers, laundry washers & dryers, so therefore it makes sense to install the specific higher voltage outlet at that location. Ultimately the usage was based on the applications needed, in which its available but not always necessary.
Hi Jay. Well, you've done it to me again. My wife came into my Gamer Room while I watched this video. She noticed it was one of your videos and said, "What's that SOB telling you to buy today?" I hope to have my 'new' PSU in a few days. I love my wife and she is right up there with my PC.
I just picked up this power supply,DP13 1000W, and so far, no complaints!
I'm glad this isn't "overclocking" in the sense that I imagined. If a PSU is not operating within spec, then it is a magic smoke machine that makes bricks.
I have the dark power pro 12 1200w unit. The only thing I dislike about it is the size of the cables. As nice as they are, you can’t find combs that fit them.
I've been looking at the 1300w for a while now. Glad to see someone that I recognize and trust do a video. Been using the same 850w corsair for like 11 years now.
I'm running a Corsair 750W PSU that's fairly new, but my case, cooler, and fans are all Be Quiet. I plan to get their PSU as well, but probably the Pure Power 12 1000W option.
Yay! Techmas is back. Thanks for doing this Jay. I know it is a lot of work for you and the team.
Jay, I still own an old Antec power supply that has three knobs to "overclock" the voltages on +3.3, +5 and +12V
It was really helpful back then. I had a Maxtor HDD that kept turning off and on on voltage fluctuations and cranking up +5V IIRC fixed it 😁
Stay Away!
(AUS) Bought a Dark Power Pro 13 1600W and it failed after 10 minutes by tripping the circuit breaker. Turned off PSU power switch, only turned on the wall switch and it tripped the breaker again. POS PSU has been returned to MWave for 'Faulty within 28 Day Period for refund.
Swapped my Asus Strix 850W White PSU back into my system and everything works fine as it did before.
Did you make sure not to reuse any old cables from the old powerful supply? Using power supply cables from other models can cause serious issues due to the pinouts being different, even from the same manufacturer.
Jay - this is best PSU introduction for a long time. Not as efficient and overdraw resilient as $500+ competitors, but functionally beautiful PSU.
I almost bought the 1300-watt version. Thankfully, I did some digging and realized the 12VHPWR connector is already semi-obsolete.
Cables didn't get a revision instead if you want a sleeved 12vhpwr cable u have to buy it separately
Shot and sweet review. Love it, thanks Jayjay and team
the main issue i had with be quiet were 3 failing ones and one actually blowing up
How big was the explosion?
@@CalyX. not "big" big but loud as fuck and took down a MoBo with it.....never again
bequiet is not known to be a quality psu brand
i would rather get corsair, seasonic or evga (if you can find one)
but the feature set on this one is quite interesting
@@rev3489
Well thank god i didn't go and buy one on last black friday i went with another Corsair psu instead xD
Well mine too did a loud boom sound and took my mobo and gpu with it never again
It's always nice to draw attention to the PSU and hardware like this certainly does that.
3680W would be the absolute limit we can pull from a single breaker in europe. Usually no more than 2400W, a 12A breaker is pretty common for regular circuits.
Interesting, here in Germany I never saw a 12A breaker. We have usually either 10A (for light circuits) or 16A (for circuits with power outlets) breakers.
12A breakers are actually very uncommon across Europe. 10A or 16A is typical.
@@Drumonymus Unless I'm drunk, I'm pretty sure my panel has only 12 and 16A breakers. Also could be wrong tho. Last time I popped a breaker was end of last year. I'm sure I swaped that pesky B12 for a C16 breaker supplying the work room.
@DrakkarCalethiel I didn't say you were wrong, I just said I don't know it. Didn't mean to offend you. The "Interesting" was not ironic or anything :) in which country do you live?
@@Drumonymus Gee, lf I would get "offened" by this, I would have to reconsider my life. xD Austria, your alpine neighbour. :D Just looked at my panel out of curiousity, 16A bathroom dedicated for the washer, 10A bathroom power + light, living room + entry room 12A, kitchen 3ph16A dedicated for the oven + 16A, sleeping room has a very odd 13A breaker and 12A swapped to 16A for the work room. The only thing that is totally weird is the 13A one. Just why?
I thought the AX1600i had this single rail feature for years.
It has. It’s the same size and I would be surprised if it was less efficient than this new PSU. It definitely has the same rating.
This power supply would be perfect for the Galaxy HOF 4090 since that card has two 12vhpwr connections
I got the 1000W variant during BF, and even though it doesn't look sexy I wouldn't replace the 12vhpwr direct cable. The included cable snapped in audibly and didn't seem to have any way to pull out as was demonstrated in the past. Also it has the bendable high gauge cables as was demonstrated in the video. Overall a really good purchase (and a great price during BF sales anyway)
I have this psu, but 1000w version. First one needed to be returned, but the replacement one works great! Mine doesn't have individually sleeved cables though, so that might be a 1600w only thing (or 1300w).
Many power supplies are most efficient when loaded to about 70% or so. So if you buy a 1200W PSU and your system only pulls 450W, it will (possibly) run less efficiently and cost you more on your power bill. Some manufacturers provide a load vs efficiency curve that you can consult.
Probably why my energy bills are so insane 😂
I have a 3080, 7800X3D with a Corsair HX1200
A ton of RGB though and about 12 different peripherals including joysticks and pedals
I checked to see if anyone mentioned this. Replying to help be more visible. It is not the same concept of future proofing as other components.
False! Most PSUs are very efficient from 20% to 95% load and even at 10% load they still have +90% efficiency! Stop spreading fake news.
In Australia where we run a 230v power grid.
Well, 230v +10% / -6%, so 253v to 216v delivered to the home.
Many grid power providers tend to supply on the high end, between 240v and 250v.
Our normal power sockets are rated at 10a.
So as a base rule, we assume 2,400w of power available at the plug.
We do also have some sockets rated for 15a, these look almost identical except require a larger ground pin which prevents them from being used in a 10a socket, but allows 10a plugs to work perfectly fine in a 15a socket.
My Soundcard does the same klicking when starting up the PC. I love it.
That PSU power cable looking at you when you unbox it like "You just hate your wallet dont you?"
The latest ATX standard is ATX 3.1, not 3.0. It's the one that updates the 12VHPWR connector to 12V2x6.
I like that you're talking about power supplies. Don't be afraid to talk about whatever hits you. Makes things interesting.
15:15 PREACH! Lmao, I'm so glad I went to school back when the teachers had sense.
My Dark Power Pro 11 750W has this and it's about 6-7 years old. I have the jumper always installed and have the toggle in the box. so this isn't new at all, but thanks for the nice explanation! ;-)
It would be interesting to see a build using most if not all the connectors on that power supply 😂
won't work motherboards do not have that many pci-express slots for gpu's plain and simple that's why🤣
@@SaraMorgan-ym6ue PCI-E power isn't limited to GPU's.There are plenty of applications that could use all the power connectors.
you always make my Sunday afternoons more enjoyable. just wish i lived in the States
In fact, in Europe it is one of the most reliable power supplies
I have been using the Dark Power Pro 11 750w for 4 years without any problems
850w are sufficient under normal conditions without overclocking, otherwise at least 1000w and preferably 1300w Dark Power Pro
I just had a dark power pro 12 1200W literally blow up, I bought mine new and I had only used it for a year and a half. It ended up taking my power strip with it but fortunately nothing else. Since this is the first time I've ever had a PSU die me it's going to be hard for me to trust the longevity of Be Quiet's PSUs moving forward. That's not to say the PSU was bad while it was working though, it was always silent and did a good job feeding my 12700K + 3080ti system. Also whatever built in protections definitely did their job and prevented the PSU from taking anything inside my computer with it.
So far the RMA process has been fairly smooth, but we'll see if I'm even able to get a replacement since I've seen mixed feedback about Be Quiet's RMA support. Anyways, just wanted to share my experience. Might update if I get a replacement.
In the Netherlands (Europe) we have 16 amps circuit breakers which means we could theoretically go as high as 220v * 16a = 3520 wattage
"Must´ve gotten a little excited" 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Standard for German households are 16A breakers on 230 V -> you can go up to about 3600W
Just ordered the Dark Power 13 1000w for $180 on cyber monday; seemed like a pretty sweet deal and I'm excited to build with it!
I recommend a sound test before installing it. bequiet has been plagued with very loud PSU fans.
@@cl4ster17ironic
@@cl4ster17 ironic XD
@@cl4ster17 what a scam lol
In Europe we have circuits with 230V and mostly 10A fuses but some have 16A like (Germany) which equals to 2300/3680W but obviously you can't feed the full power to the PC due to conversion losses.
I find it a little goofy how we went from single-rail AT/ATX PSUs in the old days, to multi-rail PSUs in the 00's, then back to single-rail, and now back to multi but with single mode as a toggle.
I have a 1k psu from when I had my 980ti with 9590cpu. Now using a 3070 and a 8700k. Works just fine for my system. Had the same on for a really long time now. Probably 8 years old now
I have a 3600 with a 3060-12 gb running on a 450 watt psu without issue. Ran the numbers and I’m still good. Not for much more, but still good.
Haha, pair this with a 4090 and call the fire brigade but upgrade your home insurance first...
I bought the Dark Power 13 1000w Titanium, and i am so happy about it :D
Looking forward to the next video.
I love beQuiet! Silent Wing fans and knowing that their beautiful power supply is also powers my PC just warms my heart a little
In Germany we can go up to 3600W if we have the correct connection. If your house/apartment block has been built after 2017, it will be able to do this.
31 Days of Techmas is so nostalgic to me these days. It's crazy
Titanium PSUs are ONLY maximally 94% efficient in the US where they use 110 Volts AC, in Europe (or pretty much everywhere else in the World) where we use 240 Volts it has a maximum of 96% efficiency.
Power supplies, power stage switches, and rectifiers being rated to handle transient load spikes of double (or more) the safe rated throughput is not special, it is completely normal for all but the absolute cheapest units and is often considered a safety feature, not an overclocking feature.
This feels weird to say, but that is a sexy power supply, lmao. It's a shame that they cheaped out on arguably the second- or third-most important cable in the PSU, the 12VHPWR. If you're spending 300-400 bucks on a PSU, all of the cables should look nice, but I digress (see what I did there?). Thankfully CableMod exists and makes those sexy Stealth Sense cables/extensions.
Power supplys are consumables, They loose wattage over time. It's recommended that you replace your psu about every 2-3 rebuilds
ATX 3.0 has already changed, its ATX 3.1 now, 12HPWR was 3.0, new one is 12V-2×6, so this power supply is already "old" stuff)
we have the same with dark power 12 (about 'overclock' mode)
really happy about mine on 1000W
There's no reason for it not to be a single 12v rail in the first place like the EVGA Supernova, which makes the whole "overclock" thing nothing more than a gimmick.
Me: "I couldn't imagine using a $500 motherboard..."
Jay: "What about a $400 powersupply?"
Crap... now I feel so inadequate with my Straight Power 12 ... :D
That one uses the same style of 12VHPWR cable as that Dark Power and its other cables are braided in the same manner. Seems they only include those individually braided ones with the 1300 and 1600W Dark Power ones. All that said: I think you'll definitely need a case with no PSU-shroud or one with a cut-out in the shroud. That PSU looks absolutely stunning IMO and it'd be a shame to hide it behind a piece of metal.
Don't feel that way! The 12VHPWR is already being replaced in ATX 3.1 next year (early as January). The new cables/connectors (2 x 6-pin or something like that iirc) will be somewhat backwards compatible with 12VHPWR/ATX 3.0. So buying an ATX 3.0 PSU with 12VHPWR connectors right now is kinda dumb. All the retailers have massive stock though, so they (and obviously their sponsored RUclips channels) aren't exactly motivated to make those facts common knowledge yet.
@@_Code.Pilot_ So I do need to feel dumb/inadequate. I did buy this particular model because it is ATX 3.0 ... :D
Love the thumbnail! Such a Jay face 😂 I love your facial expressions 🙂
been using the dark power pro series for more than a decade now, hands down the best psu you can get
still have my EVGA Supernova 1200 P2 80+ Platinum, 1200W ECO that I've had for about 8yrs where it's still going strong without issue
funny, yesterday i was looking for psu and here we go Jay with ne video :D
Some power supplies (MSI MEG Ai1300P for example) have a usb connector allowing them to be monitored via software. Mine allows you to switch between single rail or multi rail via the software that monitors it.
That’s why I got a Corsair HX1200 when I made my original build, so that I wouldn’t have to think about PSU’s for a long time
EU plug can go to 2400W if it's wired for 10A or 3840W with 16A so in europe you could consider up to like +3KW PSUs
The click is just bypass relay for the termistor to limit charge current of the input caps and the switch is probably run at like 5v I would imagine nothing fancy just signaling to PSU that's it should pull the trigger for big power
If everything in my system drew max wattage, I calculsted 570 watts. I could have put in a 650, but I prefer to over power every build in case I add or upgrade something. So, I put an 850 in. Future proof 😀
2:17 Come on Jay! Get your OCD under control and get off that tangent 😂
I have the dark power pro 12 1000W in my Fractal Torrent case and that is pretty sweet. The thing is very quiet.
I shouted 'STOOPID' to my screen when Jay showed the need for a PCIE slot for the overclocking switch. there's absolutely no reason why it can't just be on the same side where the PSU switch is on.
someone reaches behind case to turn power supply off but hits the OC switch instead which they strongly said do not do?
@@xenthoxinmake it recessed? Make it have a cover? Develop a way to not apply the change while it's turned on? You make it sound like the solution they did is not prone to accidents, which is it's even more prone to accidents being close to the gpu. How many times you flip the switch of your psu versus how many times you plug in and out a display cable? Not to mention the exposed wires at the back of it lol
@@MichaelJacob I made it sound like it was an easy switch to hit on accident, every solution has potential for accidents. They could put it in a switch that has a cover over it that has to be open and somehow someone would still mess it up, but at least what they've done here is make it more difficult to happen.
As for switching cables... I haven't had to do that in over a year, so probably about just as rarely, but I don't have much to change on my rig. Not sure how often people would be switching their display cables.
@@xenthoxin you're giving bequiet too much credit. I remember my old iGame 3070 Vulcan that has an OC button at the back where the OC would kick up after the reboot where a user won't be able to mess up and no hazard of breaking anything by doing so even accidentally.
We can go up to 13Ax220V=2800W, although that is input power. At 90% efficiency it's closer to 2.5Kw. The actual voltage can be as high as 249V in places, but it is possible to be as low as 220V.
Forward compatibility is exactly why I got an 850W PSU. Higher than that and I'll cook in my room, so this is the limit anyway and even with a 7900 XTX and a 5950X I still have 150W left (at it's still getting too hot anyway...)
"Use for overclocking" would be more a better description of that feature.
In europe, we use 240 volt and for wall plugs 16 amp breaker which is 3,8 kw. So max on psu will be 3,8kw (asuming that nothing else is pluged in)
I'm pretty sure that 230 V is used pretty much everywhere in EU, it's the EU standard. Also depends on the outlet type, normal schuko for example can only supply 10 A continously unless you want to burn the socket.
@@Simon_Denmark 230 is writen but try to mesure it. 240. Lowest during "rush hour" is like 238v. And btw schuko is german plug made for 2,5mm cable and 16amp. Standart for schuko is B16 braker which can do up to 30 amp for small time period. 10 amp is for 1,5mm cable and it is usualy used for lights and not for plugs. There is also 2 and 6 amp breakers for lights but those are usually used for single light outside. 2 amp for led and 6 amp for up to 1000w halogen reflectors.
@@michalmichalsk Yep, I’m electrician. The normal schuko still can’t handle more than 10 A for a long period.
@@Simon_Denmark it can, and its doing it in million and millions of plugs all over europe for tens ano tens of years. maybe you are confused between AC and DC.
Well done Jay....... dilute your channel
Unfortunately you don't seem to explain in this video WHY you would want to use this feature. What does it mean to switch between a single rail or multiple rails?
Over here NZ, Standard plug is 10amps so you can pull 2400W, Next size up with the bigger tab is 15amp for 3600W
Our breakers are typically 16 A, so theoretically we could go up to 3.6 kW PSUs. Of course, that's assuming an impossible 100% efficient PSU. And a reserved circuit for just that outlet.
Jay closing in on that 4m club!!!!
Maybe I missed it, but does Jay ever explain the purpose of switching to a single 12v rail?
Uk can rock 3,250 watt psu from any plug. Then 6,500watt from a faceplate (all uk homes use 32amp ring mains) (2x.2.5mm T and E)
I had the 1000W version twice and returned both. The fan in both devices were clearly audible even at idle load and louder than all other fans in my pc. In fact, you can hear this rattling even when the psu starts up in the video.
The galax hof uses 2 12vwhpr cables I doubt you would need 2 separate cables from the psu side but hey this psu can do it if needed , that’s pretty cool
Gotta be ready for a next gen Titan : )
i went seasonic again. havent heard a thing from my old or new psu. the rail toggle is neat but really should just be a switch on the psu like fan control toggles are.
Have the ASUS Rog Thor 850w Platinum and it came with sleeved cables....makes a huge difference
Really liking this psu for my next build. Currently have an rm1000x and was considering getting the hx1000i but Corsair psus are still very long (I could go shift) but I want a higher efficiency rating than gold.
I actually have that exact same 1600w EVGA Supernova in my 7950x machine that I'm watching this video on rn!
I have the Dark Power 13 1000w and can't recommend it. Yes, its really efficient and has all the bells and whistles... but its quite obnoxious when my pc is in idle. Its by far the loudest component when in Idle because it doesnt has a no fan mode.
just make a gasket between the power supply tunnel and the unit itself. The power supply cover resonates with the fan!!! I have already done this trick with my power supply, and I wish the same for you.
already tried something similiar, but thanks. just sent it back and bought the fsp hydro ti pro. got a real silent build now@@Vadimische
the dark power pro line has that OC key thing since a couple generations now.
1:35 in the UK the max output of a single socket is 3300w