Thanks Dale for a great tutorial. I successfully retrieved a recessed, broken 10mm bolt retaining the valve cover of my MDX. This happened to be on a hard to access location; particularly, on the rear bank just under the cowl. I didn't have a direct sight of where I was going to weld. I used a mirror to see it. Two tricks to get it done: (1) keeping the weld lead short about 0.5cm as Dale's, this is to ensure I weld on the broken bolt NOT the aluminum block. BTW I didn't use a washer (2) using a large nut i.e. 14 mm nut instead of 10mm, thus to make sure I weld on bolt first, then to the nut.
Happy fourth of July Dale. I've used the weld on method with success, it works well on seized exhaust studs in cylinder heads. Great video as usual. Best wishes, Dean.
Dale, what do you know about the clutches on a 64 and 65 YG1T or YJ2? The 64 is an 80cc Trailmaster and the 65 is a Campus 60. I've got clutch issues. What documentation I have found doesn't match up to the parts diagrams. I have worked on this Campus 60 for the past three days and am at a total loss why the clutch doesn't work, and this should be pretty much a no brainer. And thanks for the tip, I'm sure that'll definitely come in handy.
Hi Greg, I haven't look in to one of those for years, seems they are similar to the AT1, what is it not doing? Maybe you could upload a private video and send me the link to watch. I had a campus 60 probably 50 years ago. Thought the 80 was just a larger one, isn't the trans and clutch the same? dsweger@bresnan.net
@@montana2strokeracer Hi Dale. They are the same, just a bigger piston on the 80. Well on the Campus 60, at times the kick starter just turns over and will not engage. Now the bike has to be in neutral and clutch not pulled in to start (same as the Trailmaster). And if I get to the point where I can kick it over, then the screw for the clutch adjustment in the case, goes in to far for the bracket to attach to. This is driving me nuts. I'll do up a video showing you what it is and isn't doing, that might make more sense. But on the Trailmaster, it likes to not kick over at times (similar to now the Campus), but I can shift just fine. I'll try and get something started tomorrow. I haven't been recording any of this since it's driving me insane.
@@gregslair4278 Greg I'm not sure but it seems like those bikes did not have primary start. Otherwise, they do have to be in neutral and the clutch not pulled in for the kick starter to work. Is there a ball between the clutch rods not sure if it needs it. but that would be something to look at.
Hi, with this procedure you are welding the nut to the broken bolt, the washer is there to prevent welding to the base material. Just a shield if you will.
Thanks Dale for a great tutorial. I successfully retrieved a recessed, broken 10mm bolt retaining the valve cover of my MDX. This happened to be on a hard to access location; particularly, on the rear bank just under the cowl. I didn't have a direct sight of where I was going to weld. I used a mirror to see it. Two tricks to get it done: (1) keeping the weld lead short about 0.5cm as Dale's, this is to ensure I weld on the broken bolt NOT the aluminum block. BTW I didn't use a washer (2) using a large nut i.e. 14 mm nut instead of 10mm, thus to make sure I weld on bolt first, then to the nut.
Awesome, thanks for sharing. They can be difficult for sure.
Happy fourth of July Dale. I've used the weld on method with success, it works well on seized exhaust studs in cylinder heads.
Great video as usual.
Best wishes, Dean.
Just depends how good your weld is usually. I do have my struggles. I would say I'm better than 50 percent on this working. Happy fourth back at ya.
Very helpful! Would not haver thought of the washer. Another trick added to my growing book.
I suppose this works 50 percent of the time. Sure beats set up in the mill to drill out. Thanks for hanging out in the shop with me.
👍Dale... Congrats on 1,000 subscribers! 👍
Thanks brother
Yes the washer first than nut seems to be the best method!!!
I agree, doesn't always work, but sure beats indicating and drilling.
I need to extract some broken exhaust bolts from the head of an old motorbike.
All I have is a stick welder, will that do the job?
Yes sir, I have used an arc welder many times, just not as clean as Tig or Mig.
Dale, what do you know about the clutches on a 64 and 65 YG1T or YJ2? The 64 is an 80cc Trailmaster and the 65 is a Campus 60. I've got clutch issues. What documentation I have found doesn't match up to the parts diagrams. I have worked on this Campus 60 for the past three days and am at a total loss why the clutch doesn't work, and this should be pretty much a no brainer. And thanks for the tip, I'm sure that'll definitely come in handy.
Hi Greg, I haven't look in to one of those for years, seems they are similar to the AT1, what is it not doing? Maybe you could upload a private video and send me the link to watch. I had a campus 60 probably 50 years ago. Thought the 80 was just a larger one, isn't the trans and clutch the same? dsweger@bresnan.net
@@montana2strokeracer Hi Dale. They are the same, just a bigger piston on the 80. Well on the Campus 60, at times the kick starter just turns over and will not engage. Now the bike has to be in neutral and clutch not pulled in to start (same as the Trailmaster). And if I get to the point where I can kick it over, then the screw for the clutch adjustment in the case, goes in to far for the bracket to attach to. This is driving me nuts. I'll do up a video showing you what it is and isn't doing, that might make more sense. But on the Trailmaster, it likes to not kick over at times (similar to now the Campus), but I can shift just fine. I'll try and get something started tomorrow. I haven't been recording any of this since it's driving me insane.
@@gregslair4278 Greg I'm not sure but it seems like those bikes did not have primary start. Otherwise, they do have to be in neutral and the clutch not pulled in for the kick starter to work.
Is there a ball between the clutch rods not sure if it needs it. but that would be something to look at.
images.cmsnl.com/img/partslists/yamaha-yj2-campus-60-1964-1965-usa-clutch_bigyau0839b-8_7259.gif
do you have item 16 the ball
Dale,happy fourth of July!
And to you Sir.
I like tig and cool it fast in water. Also try soak it in rust remover for a day then weld and cool. Ill add oil too while warm .
Thanks for all the really cool suggestions.
What prevents the washer from sticking to the frame?
Hi, with this procedure you are welding the nut to the broken bolt, the washer is there to prevent welding to the base material. Just a shield if you will.
Why doesn't the weld stick to the work in addition to the broken bolt?
It will if you are not careful in trying to avoid the work.
What setting did you had your welder
Oh, wow man, that has been a long time ago. I truly don't remember.
Nice that it came out brother
Yes, nice it came out this way rather than having to spend an hour machining it out. Thanks buddy
great video again usefull info
Thanks again Mark, appreciate you watching the channel