Patriotic AR15 and Oakley Sunglasses using Cerakote and Vinyl Stencils
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- Опубликовано: 8 ноя 2024
- In this tutorial, John shows you how to use our Patriot Pack High Heat Vinyl Stencils to customize an AR15 and a pair of Oakley Gascan Sunglasses in a tattered flag design. We have this stencil set for sale at our online store: www.BransonCerakote.com
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Contact Information:
Email: info@bransoncerakote.com
Phone: 417-544-0741
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Also, if you haven't, make sure to go check out Branson Cerakote's membership website Applicator Hangout. Applicator Hangout is a community for both professional and DIY Cerakote applicators. Your membership has several benefits: the most exclusive Cerakote application content available online, forums, videos, podcasts, giveaways, and more.
Applicator Hangout Website:
applicatorhang...
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Here is a link to the equipment and supplies we use in the shop:
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We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
The reason i ask is ,I've been applying Cerakote for about 2 years now, and I sometimes use an airbrush for light detail work like that. Also, your videos are very informative and I appreciate the knowledge that you are putting out there. Glad to hear that good clean hands are sufficient. Keep up the good work and thanks.
I own a really good airbrush, an iwata, but rarely use it. I've learned that you can do just about the same things with an HVLP by just adjusting it.
Glad the videos are helping.
Very informative and great work!
Glad to help. :)
Did you use the same spray gun to apply the black? Just found your work and it is awesome. I definitely plan on ordering some of your stencils.
No. I actually have a cheap spray gun that for whatever reason seems to do battle worn and spatter effects better than the iwata. The only color I spray in it is black.
Seems like every time I try to do the same thing with the expensive iwata, it just makes a mess, lol.
Thanks for watching. We really appreciate it.
I love your videos. Great work. I purchased the stencils of the tattered flag. I want to attempt to Cerakote my AR15 the same way. I was wondering what is the Red color you are using in the video?
I use Jesse James blue, USMC red, and stormtrooper white. The battle wear is graphite black. Shoot me a call if you need any tips.
how long do you bake the first coat to put your stencils on and then how long do you bake it after you put the stencils on and paint ur second coat?
depends on the surface. I tack everything at 180. Polymer usually goes for around 8 minutes, alum for around 8-10, and steel 10-12. You want it just to the point where it no longer feels sticky. Make sure you let it cool all the way before putting the stencils on.
Every coat after that is the same until you are ready to harden in, then you just leave it in for however long at whatever temp it calls for.
ive never heard of cerekoting anything assembled. its supposed to be piece by piece. in fact i have a barrel that isnt coming off the upper. it would damage something trying to get it off, very tight fit took an hour, blow torch, freezer, rubber mallet n a crap ton of aeroshell to get it on. anyway, i cant get any local shop to paint an upper/barrel/barrel nut if they are connected n thats exactly why i havent done it... i had thought the cerekote company was real picky about the way people that spray their stuff operate. maybe im wrong please correct if so.
I do the base coat with it disassembled, then mock it all up so that whatever pattern I'm doing is seamless. The base coat is the protective coat, and any subsequent coats are just decorative.
I do barreled uppers all the time. The advantage to leaving them assembled is that you don't have any tolerance issues, especially under the gas block. The only disadvantage is that you don't get coating where the upper and barrel meet. I've done it both ways, and usually leave the decision up to the customer. Also, keep in mind that the carcass we use in the videos is just a prop. The video is to show the technique for this pattern, not as a blow by blow tutorial. We have other videos that cover the basics.
NIC doesn't franchise applicators, so no, they don't have any say in how the product is applied. That's both good and bad. Good because I do things slightly different than their pamphlet, in ways that make more sense. Bad because there are a lot of people out there spraying this stuff that have no idea what they are doing. The best advice I give to people who have questions is, make sure the shop is factory trained and certified. Not saying that there aren't some shops that aren't certified that are doing fantastic work, but with a certified shop, you know what you are getting.
Hope that helped. :)
Do you clear coat the ar after it is finished? If so which clear do you use? Thank you
My stuff I do. Customer stuff depends on the customer. We use MC156 and MC157.
@@BransonCerakote thank you.do you lighty blast before? I have notice that nic does not recommend a clear over cerakote or has that changed? They say if you do to lightly blast first.
@@MrBigg5224 We spray it directly on, no blasting. I've never had an adhesion issue.
I purchased a stencil from you on eBay I Paid to have it professionally done but he left the stencil on there permanently is that how it’s suspose to be
No! You can peel them off with a pair of tweezers, just be careful not to scratch the finish. Also, you may want to find a new "professional" applicator!
Branson Cerakote I told them I wanted the stencil done in red on a ar15 magwell he told me that the cerakote stencil would not necessarily last unless I cerakote the entire lower charged me 70 and they said they do bead blast it first but said he had trouble going over a few light scratches that were on it
Well, without seeing the project, I'd hate to jump all over someones work. Doing the whole receiver is the way to go. The coating needs a seamless finish to be maximum durable. I personally wouldn't do just an area, and $70 is right in the ballpark of what we charge for a lower.
Do they bead blast, or sandblast? bead blasting just dimples the surface, not etch.
Being as diplomatic as possible, there is something to be said for experience, and factory training.
What and where can i get those sunglasses innthe thumbnail.
I can do a pair for you. The cost, including the glasses and shipping is $165. That includes a new pair of Gascans, the Cerakote, and clear coat. The lenses on that model are not polarized. If you wanted polarized lenses, I can look that price up. They usually run about $60 more.
love how you showed the finish work cropped out and for a whole 4 seconds. seems like your unhappy with the final outcome?
That video was from 4 years ago. We've gotten much better at editing since then (multiple pics from multiple angles). There wasn't any cropping. That's the whole chassis. The results were fine, but not the goal of the video. These are tutorials done with a junk AR chassis, not customer projects. The process is what we were trying to show. The sunglasses however are mine. Still wear them daily. :)
I am new to cerakote and had a question. how long do you have between coats before it will no longer adhere? is there a limit that you don't want to exceed, time wise?
Do you mean bake time, or actual clock time?
Bake time, you don't want it past tack free. If you get it too hard, the additional layers won't adhere, they just peel off once it's all hardened.
Clock time, you really don't want to let it sit too long. They say it needs to be final baked within 24 hours of starting the process, but I've never tested that. Once I start a project, I keep on it until it's done.
If neither of those were what you meant, hit me with another message.
Thats the exact info I was looking for. I have a background in vehicle paint. I recently started my hand at cerakote. any other tid bits of info would be greatly appreciated.
Sure thing. Our contact info is on our website. Feel free to call or email.